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• Where did my backup files go? Can they be recovered?

  - by Ken

  I just purchased a Western Digital Essential SE 1TB external hard drive from Best Buy at their recommendation. I then exchanged it for a Toshiba Canvio (I think that was the name). I have a Toshiba Qosmio X505-Q898. The Canvio locked up my computer and rewrote some kind of OS file, and erased all the restore points as well as the system image backup (according to Best Buy) just by plugging it in for the first time. Never even got to the install part or anything -- plugged it in and fried my computer. They spent about an hour and a half on my computer and got it back to a somewhat working condition and gave me access to my files. So now they say I have to back it up using my recovery disk and rewriting my OS. Enter the Essential. Brought it home last night, plugged it in and installed everything. Works perfect, no problems. Backed up everything on it. I unplugged and plugged it twice to make sure that everything was on it. Essential told me it had both the HDD and SSD backed up. So I reinstalled my OS. Plugged the Essential in and everything loads right up. Went to retrieve my files and the Western Digital has nothing on it. It shows all my music, pics, ETC. as still being on my computer and needing to be backed up, but since there are no files on my computer now. Where is this information coming from and where did my files go? It's about 810GB worth of files I've amassed over several years. Is there any way to recover data from this? I plan to contact Western Digital and Best Buy, just thought I would check here too. Any advice will be appreciated as a lot of these files are invaluable to me.

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• How do I lower the hardware volume? (volume too high)

  - by Zom-B

  I have a 4yo Dell laptop with Windows XP Pro (modern ones unfortunately don't have a physical volume knob), and lately I'm using my Apple earphones, because they have much better low frequency response than my $10 earphones. They also have the side effect of being much louder. To give an indication of my agony, for most tasks (movie, music, games) I have my main volume at 3 ticks: drag to 0 with the mouse and press the up key 3 times (the handle does not even raise 1 pixel) and my wave volume at 50%. I notice that when I do this, I have a lot of digital noise, because I'm using just a tiny fraction of the 16-bit space. If I drag the Wave slider down until I barely hear the audio, it becomes really distorted and noisy, indicating that this is digital volume (in the DirectSound driver or something) and not hardware volume. I experimented in Audition. When I make a tone of 1000Hz at -50db, (all windows volumes at max) the volume is just below my pain threshold. When I zoom in to see how high the sample values reach, I see that just 8 of the 16 bits are used (about -100 ~ 100). When I generate such tone at -80db (minimum I can specify) then I can still clearly hear the tone, although really noisy. When I zoom in, I see that just 3 out of 16 bits are used. I created a squarewave tone that is just 1 bit high, and I can still hear it! For most uses, this is not a big problem (audiophiles will disagree!), as I just have more noise than usual (about the same as old 8 bit hardware), but I'm also in the process of programming a hearing test program, in which case this problem is a death blow as the test subjects will even hear tones at the bottom of the theoretical range (lowering the windows volume is futile, see above) (I cannot update drivers, as Dell has discontinued XP support for my model)

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• What format should I convert my iTunes Videos to?

  - by Aequitarum Custos

  Recently got Daniusoft Media Converter, and was about to strip the DRM off my iTunes library, then I found I had a huge decision to make. Converting my music seems obvious, to MP3, however the video formats, I'm at a loss on. It has "optimized" formats for all types of video players such as iPhone, Zune, Droid (which I own), and just a huge list! I bought several seasons of House and a few movies, though I don't know which format would be optimal to not lose quality. While I love my Droid, I have no intention on watching full episodes or movies on it, and I have a feeling that would reduce quality. One of the options sections is HD Video, and it has HD MPEG-4 Video (*.mp4). That one seems like it would be the best format to convert to without losing quality, but again, I'm unsure. Has anyone used this software, or have general expertise in video formats to give a recommendation on what file format I should convert my videos to? Format requirements: No loss in quality Portability would be ideal (as in, will play on my Windows and potentially MAC, and streamable to a bigscreen).

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• Best way to create and restore a Drive Image with Windows 7? [closed]

  - by jasondavis

  Possible Duplicate: Want to create a system image I am about to build a new PC. I am a windows 7 user. For years now I have been wanting to install windows and all my favorite software, music, etc., and then make a drive IMAGE and be able to go in 6 months later or WHENEVER I want to start fresh and completely format my drives and restore my IMAGE and have all my settings, programs, etc be just5 like when I created the original image. I know there is many ways to do this but I have never done this 100% successfully and I have about a week to figure out how to do it perfectly for when I build my new PC. I have heard good things about using tried Acronis true image in the PAST for doing what I describe4, I tried using it but, but the newer versions are overly complex and don't even seem to work the way I hoped. I also see that Windows 7 has some sort of drive IMAGE creator itself as well. Does the newer Windows 7 image creator do what I am describing above? If it does do what I am asking for (complete drive image with windows, all programs and settings) saved to an IMAGE file that can easily be restored to ANY hard drive in the future? Please share your experiences, tips, ideas on how to achieve this the easiest and most reliable way please

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• need to bring back win 7

  - by user290513

  I like making music and playing games and occasionally do some Photoshop. I had a windows 8 computer but my mouse pointer always got stuck, so to try out something new I installed Ubuntu. here is how I installed it: Went to advanced statup options clicked on "use a device" after plugging in my bootable USB with Ubuntu replaced my windows 8 and installed Ubuntu 14.04 LTS I hope I did it correctly though. So after a few months I could've really find out a good Audio Production (not LMMS, because I use Stagelight) software nor something that could be familiar to the UI of Photoshop. So I decided to bring back Windows, but because of the bad experience of 8 I thought about bringing back win 7 So I used an app named WinUSB to make my bootable USB drive after formatting it to NTFS in GParted But when I go to my grub menu, my USB doesn't show up and my PC being a UEFI device. I don't know how to get to the bios of my device. Can somebody tell how to install Windows 7 completely and deleting Ubuntu or at least give me a link to a tutorial. I have a netbook: it is an Acer Aspire One 725. I'm fine with using commands in terminal and another thing that my laptop doesn't have a CD drive or reader, I can't put a CD inside

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• Is 1GB + 1GB RAM better than 2GB +0.5GB?

  - by pibboater

  My laptop has two slots for RAM, and currently has two 512 MB chips, for 1 GB. Windows XP is running terribly slow on it, so I want to upgrade the RAM. I could buy two 1 GB chips to replace both of the current 512 MB chips, to give me 2 GB of RAM. Or, the price is the same to buy one 2 GB chip, to replace just one of the 512 MB chips, and give me 2.5 GB total. The RAM it takes is PC2-4200 533MHz DDR2. What do you think would be better: buying two 1 GB chips so it can take advantage of dual-channel operation, or buying one 2 GB chip to end up with more total RAM but not dual-channel operation? Like I said, price is the same, so performance is the only consideration. I'm not doing anything especially intensive like video or photo editing -- just having multiple Office programs open, playing music, browsers, etc., but currently even opening the first application takes forever. If it matters, the laptop is a Toshiba Qosmio G25-AV513 running Windows XP Media Center SP3. Thanks! Kevin

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• What Media Extender / Centre Set up should I use?

  - by Bryn Hird

  I have installed cat6 throughout the house which I use for telephony and network. In my cellar I have a NAS Server, gigabit switch and I want to install a Media Centre to stream my video's, music, photo's and live TV (coax from the aerial to the cellar) over the cat6. Yeah I know I can get stuff on the internet but shared experience of watching TV as a family as it happens is a big plus for live TV. I'm aiming for 1080p. I want different users to be able to watch different channels. Max users = 4. I've played a little with Windows Media Centre, works fine with live TV. Likewise I have XBMC up and running with live TV. The issue I have is what do I put near the TV. I'd like a consistent user interface (grandma and the the other technophobes in the house are continually pestering me on how to use different TVs, change channel, inputs etc.) so a key part of this for me is to make the user experience the same and simple i.e. no keyboards / PCs hanging around the TV. I've just bought a Linksys DMA 2200 to test the Windows Media Centre, but obviously off eBay as they're a dying breed. And with Windows Media Centre removed from Microsoft plans such devices will get rarer. And as for 1080p, think I can forget it with that set up. I have tested XBOX 360, also works but ditto on Microsoft plans for WMC. I was thinking of a WD Live TV to test the XMBC setup. Now to the question. Any advice on Media Centre / Extender setups that will do the job as above and have some degree of futureproofing (building my own with my Raspberry PI is a last resort). I'd like to understand the standards involved in the futureproofing if anyone knows (DNLA, RVU etc.).

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• Start Chrome by command line, but adding some arguments to make it login into your Google account automatically

  - by jim

  Is there a way to start Chrome calling it from the command line (using Linux), but providing it some argument to make it login into some Google account automatically? I'm looking for something like google-chrome -account foo -pass bar that I can easily put in a bash script later. A little background: I have a laptop connected to my TV, which is currently using just a mouse for user interaction. There's no google account logged in by default, and that's the way I want to keep it, so my kids can't come across videos and pictures in google and youtube that they are not supposed to see (e.g.: adult content, or anything marked as not appropriate for kids by the google's safe search filters). The bad thing about this is that there are some music videos in youtube that requires you to be logged in to see, usually those we (the adults) used to sing when playing karaoke... as the only input available is a mouse, I'm looking for a way to start with my google account without having to type the whole thing usin the on-screen keyboard. You may think "Why you can't use the keyboard, if the laptop is right there?". Well, it's in a kind of uncomfortable position - too high for me without a chair or something, as it's right above the furniture in where the TV is located. Is there a way to make this scriptable? If not, do you know any other workaround? Note: using the remember me after logging off or alike options are discarded, as the safe-search chrome version must be always the default version to run.

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• Windows 8 Windows Store (Metro/ModernUI) applications not working (just show 'busy' animation or white screen)

  - by davidm_uk

  I have a Dell XPS 15 which shipped with Windows 7 x64, which I recently upgraded to Windows 8. The process went surprisingly smoothly (given that this was an upgrade, not a complete re-install), and the system generally seems very stable. However, today I noticed that several of the Windows Store apps don't work: they all behave in the same way, launching but then showing a spinning 'wait' animation indefinitely. This is affecting the standard Microsoft Mail, Store, Weather, News, Travel, Finance, Sport, Games and Music apps. The Bing app just shows a Bing logo on a coloured background (but no wait animation). The Calendar, Photos and SkyDrive apps open but then show a white screen. The Maps and Camera apps work without problems. The live tiles on the Start screen are updating correctly, for example the Mail app's tile shows a summary of new mail despite the Mail app's problems. All of these applications were working correctly a few days ago. I'm sure I've used several without problems since the last Windows update occurred on 7th November. Any suggestions on what might have happened and/or how to fix it would be very welcome. I don't need these Windows Store applications, but the fact that they're not working is irritating me.

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• Sync, share and backup policy using NAS

  - by Cue

  Trying to come up with a way to keep in sync while sharing and keeping a backup of my music/photos and movies. Currently I have an iMac in Greece and a MBP with me in the UK. As a result I've ended up with 2 iPhoto and iTunes libraries not to mention Documents scattered here and there, user settings etc. I also like to have a backup in case of a drive failure or the need to clean install. It seems that iPhoto and iTunes don't work really well with networked libraries. The way I think about it is to have a NAS where I keep my iTunes and iPhoto library but also rsync daily to my MBP to have a local copy. That way my files are shared across the network as well as act like a backup. In addition I get to have my files wherever I take my MBP but also have the ability to clean install. The tricky part comes from keeping in sync the iMac which is miles away. Again I'm considering a mirror setup (NAS, rsync to the iMac) as well as an rsync between the two NAS. It pretty much resembles the way Dropbox works, sans the requirement to go through their servers but I'm no "superuser" and don't really know if it is even feasible to have such a setup. Looks like there are so many things that can go wrong.

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• Why does 3.5 mm audio out work through headphones but not through external speakers?

  - by Rickster

  I have a computer that has a 3.5 mm audio jack on the front of it. The computer itself has no speakers, so this is the only way to hear sound. If I plug headphones into it, the audio properly plays through the headphones, and if I plug in external speakers it used to play through them as well. Just today I turned on my computer and the audio no longer plays through the speakers, but if I plug in the headphones instead it works. The speakers aren't broken, as both the speakers and headphones work in my iPod and play music. I thought that 3.5 mm jacks could not send data back to the computer, and the computer had no way of differentiating between different devices plugged into the jack. If this is true, how is it that the computer plays audio through the headphones but not through speakers plugged into the same 3.5 mm jack, and both devices are functional? Or is my knowledge on 3.5 mm jacks incorrect? I don't believe drivers are important, as the same driver runs the 3.5 mm jack for all devices, but if necessary I can provide additional information. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!

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• 750Gig Hard Drive shows full with only 315Gigs used

  - by Chris Kelly

  I have a Win7 laptop with a 750Gig C: drive. It came partitioned with 714Gig usable from manufacturer. I installed programs, music files, etc up to 285 gigs. As of a few weeks ago it showed 285 Gigs. Two weeks of house guests later and it shows HD is full. I deleted some files but it still shows 652 Gigs on this drive while there are only 285 Gigs on drive. Relevant details: I am Administrator on laptop and have fair knowledge of what I am doing. I did not restore from backup, restore from mirror, upgrade HD's or anything else that would have touched the partition structure. Just daily use as imaging machine and web. I have checked partitions under disk administrator - no change, still partitioned with 714Gigs usable. Have looked through computer C drive by hand showing Hidden files and folders - no change. I have used JDisk Report to double check - it shows I have only 285 Gigs on C drive. I triple checked with TreeSize run as Administrator and it also shows 285 Gigs on C drive - yet Windows 7 still shows almost full. I used Windows 7 Utilities to Check for Disk Errors, and Defragged the drive. No errors shown and no change after Defrag.

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• map linux drives to windwos 7 for media stream over internet

  - by Ortix92

  I'm trying to map a linux network drive to my windows 7 laptop, however this laptop is not on LAN. At home, I simply use Samba, but this obviously won't work over the internet. I'm trying to avoid VPN, so if there are other solutions, I would like to know about them. The reason I ask is because my university does this as well. We can simply map folders to our computers without VPN connections. I'm not sure what they are running as servers. The main reason is because I want to be able to access my files stored on my home server wherever I go. They are located in the /home/ folder (videos, music and pictures folder). I'm trying to keep my websites and media separate from each other. I wouldn't mind accessing them from a web interface either, but I would like to keep the directory structure intact. I remember having an app like that come with winamp and running it on my windows pc (As the server). Unfortunately it doesn't work for linux. Any ideas on what I could use? Would XBMC be able to help me out with this? I did do some researching but I couldn't find any concrete answers

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• How to set up Windows 7 Professional as a NAS

  - by Enyalius

  I searched and didn't find any answers, so please forgive me if this is a repeat. Anyway, I have an older computer that I'm using as an HTPC, and I was hoping that I could use it as a NAS/multimedia server, as well. My primary uses would include accessing content on my PS3 (same LAN), accessing content from other computers on my home network and (if I can) accessing content from my Android phone over the internet. I have used SubSonic to stream music to my Android phone and other computers before, but I would really like to find a way to do this natively if possible. I know that I can buy external hard disk cases that can plug in the USB port of my router, that I can get a Drobo or other network storage solution, but I would really just rather not spend the money (especially considering that I already have a computer that I should be able to use). Hardware involved: Apple AirPort Extreme base station router (most recent revision) Home Theater Personal Computer: Core 2 Duo @ 2.4GHz, 8GB DDR2 RAM, ~3.5TB hard drive space Sony Playstaiton 3 Thin 120GB HTC Thunderbolt (I have 4G coverage) rooted and running Android 2.2.1 Various Apple laptops Various Windows 7 desktops/laptops Thanks in advance! Note- I have looked at open source NAS software but I would like to preserve the Windows Media Center functionality in Windows 7, so other NAS software is not an option for me currently. .

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• saving data from a failing drive

  - by intuited

  An external 3½" HDD seems to be in danger of failing — it's making ticking sounds when idle. I've acquired a replacement drive, and want to know the best strategy to get the data off of the dubious drive with the best chance of saving as much as possible. There are some directories that are more important than others. However, I'm guessing that picking and choosing directories is going to reduce my chances of saving the whole thing. I would also have to mount it, dump a file listing, and then unmount it in order to be able to effectively prioritize directories. Adding in the fact that it's time-consuming to do this, I'm leaning away from this approach. I've considered just using dd, but I'm not sure how it would handle read errors or other problems that might prevent only certain parts of the data from being rescued, or which could be overcome with some retries, but not so many that they endanger other parts of the drive from being saved. I guess ideally it would do a single pass to get as much as possible and then go back to retry anything that was missed due to errors. Is it possible that copying more slowly — e.g. pausing every x MB/GB — would be better than just running the operation full tilt, for example to avoid any overheating issues? For the "where is your backup" crowd: this actually is my backup drive, but it also contains some non-critical and bulky stuff, like music, that aren't backups, i.e. aren't backed up. The drive has not exhibited any clear signs of failure other than this somewhat ominous sound. I did have to fsck a few errors recently — orphaned inodes, incorrect free blocks/inodes counts, inode bitmap differences, zero dtime on deleted inodes; about 20 errors in all. The filesystem of the partition is ext3.

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• Seagate 3TB hard drive loses format information

  - by Victor Bugarin

  I have a Windows 7x64 Ultimate, 6 GB memory, 1 TB HD. 3TB Barracuda XT HDD. The HDD is installed on a StarTech 4 bays external enclosure I had troubles so I converted to a GPT, created 1 partition and formatted as NTFS. The hard drive I can write and read to and from the hard drive but it will become unreadable at some point while I am copying files or after I have copied files to it. I have copied large Bluray movies and diverse video files, I have also copied 32 GB of pictures, and I have copied about 86 thousand music files in different formats. At some point the partition becomes unreadable and I have to format the partition again (all files lost) and I have to start the whole process again. At some point I have been unable to copy large ISO (Bluray movies) file images. I have partitioned the HDD in 2 partitions P1 - 2TB, P2 - 1TB and I have lost every single file in either partition the same way. I reformat the HDD and it seems fine. I have run seatools to check the hard drive and it reports to be OK. What gives?

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• Can a non-redundant RAID5 cause any serious problems (compared to RAID0)?

  - by leemes

  I used to have a three-disc RAID5 (mdadm) in my computer for personal media storage (music, videos, photos, programs, games, ...). It had three discs with 750 GB each, resulting in an array capacity of 1.5 TB. One day (one year ago), I needed one of those discs to install another operating system. I thought, I don't need the redundancy anymore since I backup the most important stuff (personal photos e.g.) on an external disc anyway. So I decided to remove one of the three discs without converting the RAID to RAID0 or even two separate discs, because I had no temporary storage (since one cannot simply convert the RAID5 to RAID0 AFAIK). So now, for about one year, I have a non-redundant RAID5 with 2 of 3 discs running. Sometimes, one of the discs has a defective contact at the power cable or something similar causing the drive to stop working temporarily (I don't know exactly what it is). Since it still works when rebooting the computer and in most cases by calling some mdadm commands, it wasn't that problematic. Note that the data is not very critical, since I still have a backup of the most important stuff. But in the last few weeks, one of the drives fails very frequently (every few hours), so it gets really annoying to manage this. My questions are: Is there any disadvantage (apart from the annoying management) of a non-redundant RAID5 (with one drive less than typical) over a RAID0? If I understand it correctly, both have no redundancy and the same capacity. On a temporary drive failure, I can restart the array in both cases, assuming that the drive itself still works after the failure. Can it happen that the drive contents alter on a drive failure, making the array inconsistent? If so, can I tell mdadm to check the array for failures (without a file system level checking tool)? Since the drive most probably only has a defective contact causing it to fail for a second only, can I tell mdadm to automatically restart the array, so I will not even notice the failure if no application wanted to access the file system during the failure?

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• Is it possible to create a simple frontend indexer for openbittorent torrents?

  - by SimonK

  I run a website which distributes a few files every now and again, live music performances by a rock band. I create a torrent file, set the trackers as openbittorrent, publicbt and other similar open trackers. I upload the torrent file to my forum, my users download it and the files are shared. No problems there. What I would like to do is index those torrents properly on my website though so I can follow seeders/leechers and other stats online. I know the open torrent trackers don't have an index but I am aware of many, many indexing sites that do that exact thing. I don't know how though. So what I'm asking is what do I need to do to do that myself? I simply want to create a page that lists the torrents I and other users on my site create, the seeders/leechers ratio and a link to the torrent file etc. What data do I need to be able to do that? I'm proficient in general web design but I don't know what I would need data wise to pull the required info on the torrents? Thanks

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• Windows 7 automatically logs out when logging in

  - by Luke

  A Windows 7 HP x64 computer is set to automatically log in (no password), but once it starts logging in, it starts to load the desktop after the welcome screen, but before icons or background images are loaded, it goes to the Welcome screen saying 'Logging Off'. I can log in with Safe Mode, and I ran a couple different virus scans, with no detections. I also tried checking the userinit.exe file in System32 (as suggested by MANY users for Windows XP), but it's the same version as a working system. I also checked the registry under HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Winlogon for the SHELL and UserInit values, but they look normal. I tried to disable all startup items (through MSCONFIG) to select Diagnostic boot, but then I get a blue screen about the video driver not loading. Any other ideas? EDIT I created a new user, and it could log in no problems. I am thinking it's the NTUSER.DAT file. I just renamed it to NTUSER.DAT.old, then tried logging in as the problem user. I could log in, but as a TEMP profile. His profile folder is now C:\Users\TEMP, and his old folder is still accessible but in the wrong location. EDIT 2 I can't seem to turn off the TEMP profile, so I'm open to other suggestions. Copying the folders (i.e. Documents, Music, etc) does not work, as it creates an additional TEMP.000 then TEMP.001 folder each time the user logs in.

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• How do I rsync an entire folder based on the existence of a specific file type in that folder

  - by inquam

  I have a server set up that receives movies to a folder. I then serve these movies using DLNA. But in the initial folder where they end up all kind of files end up. Pictures, music, documents etc. I thought I'd fix this by running the following script inside that folder rsync -rvt --include='*/' --include='*.avi' --include='*.mkv' --exclude='*' . ../Movies/ This works and scans the given folder and moves all the found movies of the given extension types to the Movies folder. But I wonder if there is anyway to tell rsync to if a folder if found that includes a movie of the given extension types, sync the entire folder. Including other files such as .srt. This is to make it easier for me to get subtitles moved along with the movie. I have a solution figured out via a script made in php (yea, I actually do most of my scripting in linux using php... just a habbit that stuck a long time ago). But if rsync can handle it from the start that would be super. Also, I have noticed that this line of rsync actually copies all the root folders in the given folder. If no movie is in the folder it will create an empty folder. How do I prevent rsync from doing this... and saving me the trouble of deleting all folder in Movies that are empty.

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• Many clients on a wireless AP for UDP broadcast packets

  - by distorteddisco

  I asked this question on StackOverflow and was directed over here, so I'd appreciate any advice. I'm deploying a smartphone application as part of a live music performance that depends on receiving UDP broadcast packets from a wireless access point. I'm guessing that between 20 and 50 clients will be connected at any one time. I'm aware that a maximum of 20 clients per access point is advised, but as the UDP broadcast packets are ground through the LAN, how would I be able to link multiple APs together? I'm looking for recommendations on a suitable AP for this. The actual data transmission rates are very low - only a few kB/s - as I'm just sending small messages to the smartphone apps, and there will be no WAN internet connection. I tried it with a few connected peers on an adhoc wireless connection without any problems, but ran into dropped packet issues on an old WRT54G running ddwrt, though it's in pretty rough shape. What's the best way to do this? I suppose I could limit concurrent wireless connections to 20 clients... but more would be nice. EDIT: I should also say that it's purely one-way communication; the smartphone application is only receiving broadcast packets, not sending anything.

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• ZFS & Deduplicating FLAC Data

  - by jasongullickson

  I'm experimenting with using ZFS to deduplicate a large library of FLAC files. The purpose of this is twofold: Reduce storage utilization Reduce bandwidth needed to sync the library with cloud storage Many of these files are of the same music tracks but from different physical media. This means that for the most part they are the same and usually close to the same size, which makes me think that they should benefit from block-level deduplication. However in my testing I'm not seeing good results. When I create a pool and add three of these tracks (identical songs from different source media) zpool list reports 1.00 dedupe. If I copy all of the files (make exact duplicates of the three) dedupe climbs, so I know that it is enabled and functioning, but it's not finding any duplication in the original collection of files. My first thought was that perhaps some of the variable header data (metadata tags, etc.) might be mis-aligning the bulk of the data in these files (the audio frames) but even making the header data consistent across the three files doesn't seem to have any impact on deduplication. I'm considering taking alternate routes (testing other dedupe filesystems as well as some custom code) but since we're already using ZFS and I like the ZFS replication options, I'd prefer to use ZFS dedupe for this project; but perhaps it's simply not capable of working well with this sort of data. Any feedback regarding tuning that might improve dedupe performance for this sort of dataset, or confirmation that ZFS dedupe is not the right tool for this job are appreciated.

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• Windows 7 Account Settings Vanished

  - by Roy Tang

  So I came home and stumbled upon a bit of a mystery. When I got home my brother was using my desktop PC that was running Windows 7 (I have accounts for my 2 brothers and my mom on the machine, but mine is the only admin account). After he finished his game he logged out and I logged in to my account, but found only strangeness. My windows account seems to have been somewhat "reset", meaning: my quick launch shortcuts were gone my dropbox account did not automatically login my pidgin accounts were no longer there I had to relogin Steam iTunes could not launch (I had hooked up my iDevice before logging in) The Documents/Pictures/Music shortcuts in the start menu no longer work However, despite that: my desktop wallpaper was still correct my documents folder was still there in c:\Users\my account name\My Documents as expected Google Chrome settings seem to have been retained other accounts on the same machine seem to be fine I asked my brother if he had installed anything strange during the day, he only installed Yahoo Messenger. I last used the machine around 24 hours ago and it was fine then. I'm not sure what else has been affected. I'm inclined to just create a new admin user for me to use, but I'd like to have some idea of what actually happened.

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• How to boost playback volume in real time on media recorded with a very low volume.

  - by L Marksman

  I have never heard a satisfactory answer to this often misunderstood question, let me explain. Lets say I have a sound card and earphones/speakers that can play back audio loud enough in most cases. This is great but the problem is that you always find people who do not know how to record audio, from Youtube video's to music. So now you end up with a audio playback that only uses 10% or less of the capacity of your sound hardware, in vista/win 7 you will see this frequently in the mixer with the volume pushed up to max but the green sound level only goes up a millimeter or two. I am looking for (preferably free) software or a method to boost the sound level of any audio from any source in real time to use more of my hardware capacity similar to what VLC media player can do. Oh and please, do not tell me it is impossible. I am not trying to boost the volume past what my hardware is capable of, I am just trying to use my hardware's full capacity. Also please do not tell met to buy new hardware, I know I can use hardware amplification, I don't want to (like many others) spend money on a simple little problem like this. Thanks!

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• Verizon overbilling me ?

  - by bek

  I have verizon air card for my internet. Which is called vz manager. I have had it for about a year. Keeping within my usage allowance the whole time until 3 months ago, when my bill came in my 5,000 g allowance was ran to 18,000. It has continued to do so through the last 3 months. My usage reset itself yesterday for the new month. I got on google for about 5 minutes and chatted for about an hour yesterday online. Mind you that I have never done anything any different then i do everyday. I do not download music or watch videos on my computer, nothing like that. Well since last night a 8 pm my usage sayd 1109.525 gb. ALREADY! For being on the internet for an hour with no downloads. What could be causing this, please thrown me some ideas. Verizon is checking on the problem, but that usually doesnt get me the answer i want. Can someone be hacking my card and using internet through it, has told me that that is not possible, however I think with the internet anytihng is possible.

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