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• Frequent connection drops when playing online games (StarCraft 2, Battlefield 3) and behind NAT - how to diagnose?

  - by Moshev

  I am having some trouble with (I suspect) my wireless router. It's connected to the internet with a regular lan cable and has a static, public IP address. Our two home PCs connect to the router with regular lan cables, plus there's a laptop which connects over wifi. diagram: Internet | | <- isp-supplied cat5 ethernet cable | D-Link D300 ...wifi... laptop / \ / <- cable -> \ PC1 PC2 The PCs and laptop are behind NAT and share the router's public IP. The router is a D-Link D300. PC1 is used for online gaming and I'm experiencing frequent "connection dropped" errors when playing Battlefield 3, StarCraft 2 and the Diablo 3 beta; but not with TeamFortress 2 or the Tribes Ascend beta. The issue goes away when I remove the router and connect PC1 directly to the ISP's cable. I have also tried disconnecting PC2 and the laptop, leaving PC1 as the only machine connected to the router - doesn't help. How can I diagnose what precisely the issue is?

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• Connecting to a 2.5" laptop drive using USB

  - by user27449

  So I swapped my MBP hard drive with a SSD drive, and I want to connect to my old hard drive. I bought a nextstar 3 external 2.5" drive enclosure that has a USB 2.0 interface. I watched an online video of an older version of the enclosure, and in the video they had a ATA cable to connect to the drive. My enclosure didn't come with anything like that, and there doesn't seem to be a way to connect to my drive (my old drive is a seagate 500gb momentus 7200 RPM). My laptop is about 2 years old now (MBP 17"). The drive doesnt' have pins to connect, it has a wide plug type connector, and a USB connector also (I was able to directly plugin the USB cable to the drive, but didn't connect it to my computer, was just testing thigns out). Is it safe for me to directly connect the cable that came with the enclosure to the drive, and then connect the other end to my computer? Does this single cable provide power and data transfer?

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• Dual LAN Printing

  - by Christopher

  I want to use Ubuntu 10.10 Server in a classroom, a computer lab whose bandwidth is provided by a local cable ISP. That's no problem, though the school network has an IP printer that I want to use. I cannot reach the printer through the cable Internet. But, I have two network cards. How is it possible to use both networks at once? eth0 (static 192.168.1.254) is plugged into a four-port router, 192.168.1.1. On the public side of the four-port router is Internet provided by the cable company. I also have the classroom workstations plugged into a switch. The switch is plugged into the four-port router. The whole classroom is wired into the cable Internet. The other NIC, eth1, could it be plugged into an Ethernet jack in the wall? It uses the school network, and I might receive by DHCP an IP address like 10.140.10.100, with the printer on maybe 10.120.50.10. I was thinking about installing the printer on the server so that it could be shared with the workstations. But how does this work? Can I just plug eth1 into the school network and access both LANs? Thanks for any insight, Chris

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• Use two networks at the same time?

  - by Christopher

  I want to use Ubuntu 10.10 Server in a classroom, a computer lab whose bandwidth is provided by a local cable ISP. That's no problem, though the school network has an IP printer that I want to use. I cannot reach the printer through the cable Internet. But, I have two network cards. How is it possible to use both networks at once? eth0 (static 192.168.1.254) is plugged into a four-port router, 192.168.1.1. On the public side of the four-port router is Internet provided by the cable company. I also have the classroom workstations plugged into a switch. The switch is plugged into the four-port router. The whole classroom is wired into the cable Internet. The other NIC, eth1, could it be plugged into an Ethernet jack in the wall? It uses the school network, and I might receive by DHCP an IP address like 10.140.10.100, with the printer on maybe 10.120.50.10. I was thinking about installing the printer on the server so that it could be shared with the workstations. But how does this work? Can I just plug eth1 into the school network and access both LANs? Thanks for any insight

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• Ubuntu 12.04 Freezes w/ Ethernet Unplugged + Wireless Drops (Acer Aspire 5516)

  - by Grand Master T

  Ubuntu 12.04-12.10 32/64 freezes or won't boot if the Ethernet cable is unplugged and will not hold a wireless connection. Here is my scenario... Laptop: Acer Aspire 5516 Wireless card: Broadcom BCM4312 Ubuntu 12.04 32/64 Issues Unity 3d won't load without the Ethernet cable plugged in. If I let it load with Ethernet plugged in, it will freeze once I disconnect the cable. Unity 2d will load without the Ethernet cable plugged. In Unity 2d, wireless cannot hold a connection. I can connect to a Wireless network, but when I try to use it (i.e. open a browser), it disconnects. I can reconnect by disabling wireless (uncheck Enable Wireless), re-enable wireless, and reconnect. But, it will disconnect again once I start using it. Ubuntu 12.10 Issues Since 12.10 only gives me the option to load 3d (I assume), I experience the same thing as the first issue in 12.04. Attempted Solutions Enable networking/LAN in BIOS Set LAN first in boot priority in BIOS Remove STA wireless driver (bcmwl-kernel-source) and install b43 low power driver (firmware-b43-lpphy-installer). Remove default Network Manager and install Wicd. So far, I have had no luck with fixing this issue. Does anyone have any further suggestions?

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• HDMI video connection cuts top and bottom borders of screen

  - by Luis Alvarado

  Ok this is an extension of another problem I had with a VGA connection and an Nvidia Geforce GT 440 card. Here is goes the explanation of this particular problem: I have a Soneview 32' TV. This TV has many connections including VGA (First reason I bought it), HDMI (Second reason but did not have a HDMI cable at that time) and DVI. I have had this TV for little over a month now, actually I had it to celebrate the release of Ubuntu 11.10 and started using it exactly on that date (I know too much fan there but hey, I like geek stuff). I started using it with the VGA cable. After 2 weeks I bought an Nvidia GT440 card. The previous 9500GT was working correctly with no problems whatsoever. I installed the GT440 and the first problem that I encountered using this latest card is mentioned here: Nvidia GT 440 black screen problem when loading lightdm greeter. The solution to this problem was to actually disconnect then connect again the VGA cable. This would result in the screen showing me the lightdm screen for my login. If I did not disconnect then connect the cable I could be there forever thinking that there is no video signal. I got tired of looking for answers that did not work and for solutions that made me literally have to install Ubuntu again. I just went and bought a HDMI cable and changed the VGA one for that one. It worked and I did not have to disconnect/connect the cable but now I have this problem when using any resolution. My normal resolution is 1920x1080 (This TV is 1080HD) so in VGA I could use this resolution with no problem, but on HDMI am getting the borders cut out. Here is a pic: As you can see from the PIC, the Launcher icons only show less than 50% of their witdh. Forget about the top and bottom parts, I can access them with the mouse but I can not visualize them in the screen. It is like it's outside of the TVs view. Basically there is like 20 to 30 pixels gone from all sides. I searched around and came to running xrand --verbose to see what it could detect from the TV. I got this: cyrex@cyrex:~$ xrandr --verbose xrandr: Failed to get size of gamma for output default Screen 0: minimum 320 x 175, current 1920 x 1080, maximum 1920 x 1080 default connected 1920x1080+0+0 (0x164) normal (normal) 0mm x 0mm Identifier: 0x163 Timestamp: 465485 Subpixel: unknown Clones: CRTC: 0 CRTCs: 0 Transform: 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000 filter: 1920x1080 (0x164) 103.7MHz *current h: width 1920 start 0 end 0 total 1920 skew 0 clock 54.0KHz v: height 1080 start 0 end 0 total 1080 clock 50.0Hz 1920x1080 (0x165) 105.8MHz h: width 1920 start 0 end 0 total 1920 skew 0 clock 55.1KHz v: height 1080 start 0 end 0 total 1080 clock 51.0Hz 1920x1080 (0x166) 107.8MHz h: width 1920 start 0 end 0 total 1920 skew 0 clock 56.2KHz v: height 1080 start 0 end 0 total 1080 clock 52.0Hz 1920x1080 (0x167) 109.9MHz h: width 1920 start 0 end 0 total 1920 skew 0 clock 57.2KHz v: height 1080 start 0 end 0 total 1080 clock 53.0Hz 1920x1080 (0x168) 112.0MHz h: width 1920 start 0 end 0 total 1920 skew 0 clock 58.3KHz v: height 1080 start 0 end 0 total 1080 clock 54.0Hz 1920x1080 (0x169) 114.0MHz h: width 1920 start 0 end 0 total 1920 skew 0 clock 59.4KHz v: height 1080 start 0 end 0 total 1080 clock 55.0Hz 1680x1050 (0x16a) 98.8MHz h: width 1680 start 0 end 0 total 1680 skew 0 clock 58.8KHz v: height 1050 start 0 end 0 total 1050 clock 56.0Hz 1680x1050 (0x16b) 100.5MHz h: width 1680 start 0 end 0 total 1680 skew 0 clock 59.9KHz v: height 1050 start 0 end 0 total 1050 clock 57.0Hz 1600x1024 (0x16c) 95.0MHz h: width 1600 start 0 end 0 total 1600 skew 0 clock 59.4KHz v: height 1024 start 0 end 0 total 1024 clock 58.0Hz 1440x900 (0x16d) 76.5MHz h: width 1440 start 0 end 0 total 1440 skew 0 clock 53.1KHz v: height 900 start 0 end 0 total 900 clock 59.0Hz 1360x768 (0x171) 65.8MHz h: width 1360 start 0 end 0 total 1360 skew 0 clock 48.4KHz v: height 768 start 0 end 0 total 768 clock 63.0Hz 1360x768 (0x172) 66.8MHz h: width 1360 start 0 end 0 total 1360 skew 0 clock 49.2KHz v: height 768 start 0 end 0 total 768 clock 64.0Hz 1280x1024 (0x173) 85.2MHz h: width 1280 start 0 end 0 total 1280 skew 0 clock 66.6KHz v: height 1024 start 0 end 0 total 1024 clock 65.0Hz 1280x960 (0x176) 83.6MHz h: width 1280 start 0 end 0 total 1280 skew 0 clock 65.3KHz v: height 960 start 0 end 0 total 960 clock 68.0Hz 1280x960 (0x177) 84.8MHz h: width 1280 start 0 end 0 total 1280 skew 0 clock 66.2KHz v: height 960 start 0 end 0 total 960 clock 69.0Hz 1280x720 (0x178) 64.5MHz h: width 1280 start 0 end 0 total 1280 skew 0 clock 50.4KHz v: height 720 start 0 end 0 total 720 clock 70.0Hz 1280x720 (0x179) 65.4MHz h: width 1280 start 0 end 0 total 1280 skew 0 clock 51.1KHz v: height 720 start 0 end 0 total 720 clock 71.0Hz 1280x720 (0x17a) 66.4MHz h: width 1280 start 0 end 0 total 1280 skew 0 clock 51.8KHz v: height 720 start 0 end 0 total 720 clock 72.0Hz 1152x864 (0x17b) 72.7MHz h: width 1152 start 0 end 0 total 1152 skew 0 clock 63.1KHz v: height 864 start 0 end 0 total 864 clock 73.0Hz 1152x864 (0x17c) 73.7MHz h: width 1152 start 0 end 0 total 1152 skew 0 clock 63.9KHz v: height 864 start 0 end 0 total 864 clock 74.0Hz ....Many Resolutions later... 320x200 (0x1d1) 10.2MHz h: width 320 start 0 end 0 total 320 skew 0 clock 31.8KHz v: height 200 start 0 end 0 total 200 clock 159.0Hz 320x175 (0x1d2) 9.0MHz h: width 320 start 0 end 0 total 320 skew 0 clock 28.0KHz v: height 175 start 0 end 0 total 175 clock 160.0Hz 1920x1080 (0x1dd) 333.8MHz h: width 1920 start 0 end 0 total 1920 skew 0 clock 173.9KHz v: height 1080 start 0 end 0 total 1080 clock 161.0Hz If it helps, the Refresh Rate at 1920x1080 is 60. There is a flickering effect at this resolution using HDMI but not VGA which I imagine is related to the borders cut off issue am asking here. I have also done the following but this will only solve the problem on lower resolutions than 1920x1080 or on others TV (My father has a Sony TV where this problem is also solved): NVIDIA WAY Go to Nvidia-Settings and there will be an option that will have more features if a HDMI cable is connected. In the next pic the option is DFP-1 (CNDLCD) but this name changes depending on what device the PC is connected to: Uncheck Force Full GPU Scaling What this will do for resolutions LOWER than 1920x1080 (At least in my case) is solve the flickering problem and fix the borders cut by the monitor. Save to Xorg.conf file the changes made after changing to a resolution acceptable to your eyes. TV WAY If you TV has OSD Menu and this menu has options for scanning the screen resolution or auto adjusting to it, disable them. Specifically the option about SCAN. If you have an option for AV Mode disable it. Basically disable any option that needs to scan and scale the resolution. Test one by one. In the case of my father's TV this did it. In my case, the Nvidia solved it for lower resolutions. NOTE: In the case this is not solved in the next couple of weeks I will add this as the answer but take into consideration that the issue is still active with 1920x1080 resolutions.

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• Repurpose a Wire Basket as a Game Controller Organizer

  - by Jason Fitzpatrick

  If you’re looking for an easy way to organize your console controllers, this simple repurposing hack turns an IKEA wire basket intended for managing cable clutter into a game controller stand. You won’t need a Dremel tool to install this hack; all you need to do to follow in the foot steps of IKEAHackers reader Leslie is to install a SIGNUM cable basket (or similar cable organizer) upside down so loom curves up instead of down. Instant wire cradle for your controllers (or possibly an open air charging station for your small electronics). Check out the link below for more details. Game Controller Management System [IKEAHackers] How To Make a Youtube Video Into an Animated GIFHTG Explains: What Are Character Encodings and How Do They Differ?How To Make Disposable Sleeves for Your In-Ear Monitors

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• Expensive HDMI Cables Make No Difference

  - by Jason Fitzpatrick

  While we’re no strangers to spreading the news that expensive HDMI cables are a ripoff, we’re happy to share yet another study that shows there’s zero difference between a $5 cable and a $95 one. Over at the British hardware review site Expert Reviews, they subjected a wide selection of HDMI cables to extensive tests in a bid to produce the end-all examination of whether or not a premium HDMI cable could actually produce a better signal. They used capture cards, pixel-by-pixel comparison of output, and other techniques to pick over individual frames until they ultimately reached the same conclusion everyone outside of the Monster sales staff had already reached: you’re getting absolutely no benefit to spending $100 on cable that can be had for under five bucks. Hit up the link below to read over their methodology. Expensive Cables Make Absolutely No Difference [via Geek News Central] HTG Explains: What Is RSS and How Can I Benefit From Using It? HTG Explains: Why You Only Have to Wipe a Disk Once to Erase It HTG Explains: Learn How Websites Are Tracking You Online

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• How to avoid HDD spin up at system start? (Ubuntu from SSD)

  - by Oliver

  Thanks to hdparm -B1 /dev/sdb my HDD does no longer spin up when powered up on boot. But after completing the BIOS POST messages and starting Ubuntu the HDD gets a signal over the SATA data cable and spins up. Leaving the data cable (but still with plugged in SATA power cable) let the system boot up completely from my SSD without spinning up the HDD. What causes the HDD to spin up? Maybe Grub2? Edit: nope, doesn't seem to be Grub2 that spins up the drive. I just set up Grub to show its menu without timer. Nothings happens until I hit the Ubuntu standard boot option, then a few seconds later the drive spins up.

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• How Fiber Optic Cables Are Made and Laid Across the Sea [Science]

  - by Jason Fitzpatrick

  We don’t know about you but yesterday’s video about how fiber optic cables work just made us more curious. Check out how the cables are made and laid across the sea. In the above video we see how fiber optic strands are manufactured, including how the draw tower mentioned in yesterday’s video works. Once the strands are manufactured, where do they go and how are they used? In the video below we see Alcatel-Lucent’s Ile de Sein, one of the largest and most powerful cable laying ships in the world. Check out the video to see cable storage wells that look like small stadiums. Finding out how the cables are made and what kind of planning and machinery it takes to lay them across the ocean is just as interesting as how they work. How It’s Made: Fiber Optics [YouTube] Undersea Cable [YouTube] What is a Histogram, and How Can I Use it to Improve My Photos?How To Easily Access Your Home Network From Anywhere With DDNSHow To Recover After Your Email Password Is Compromised

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• Network setup not working. Can't connect to the Internet in Ubuntu

  - by Clint Eastwood

  I want to know how to set-up network in 12.04 using automatic settings (DHCP). I installed Ubuntu, but I can't seen to see the network connection. What can I do? My notebook has no wireless only cable. The cable will not fit in. How can I plug it in? Do I need a special Cable? There is no router can I fix this myself, or should I call a technician? Also can I use USB to connect to the network/Internet? please can you help Thank you jamel

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• How to solve dual monitor issue, which happens only during X start?

  - by tamashumi

  When is loading and two monitors are connected, instead of a login screen I see this: ...after clicking OK, selection appears: Then I'm following to console login, disconnecting by hand the secondary monitor cable, restart lightdm with a command sudo service lightdm restart ...and voila! System loads fine. If I disconnect the cable before boot X will be loaded fine too. It's not a nice 'feature' when I have to disconnect the cable each boot or X restart. I was trying to delete monitors.xml but it didn't help. The situation relates to my notebook with Intel integrated GPU. The same happens on two different pairs of monitors: at the office and at home. How can I fix this? Ubuntu 12.04 x64 Desktop with default Unity GUI.

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• Using an iPad or Nexus 7 as an Ubuntu Second Monitor

  - by never4getthis

  Is there any way to use an iPad mini or a Nexus 7 as a second monitor through a cable? I dont want something like vnc, I need it to work through the usb cable (or any other cable). I imagine that the iPad will get a lot of hate around here, the reason why I am considering it is because of the larger screen (compared to the nexus 7). I think its self explanatory that I need this to work with ubuntu (as I am posting in this formum). Thanks for reading this highly unorganized, typo-flled (<--see what I did there?), un-cohesive post. Any help will be appreciated!

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• Is there another application like Nokia PC Suite for Ubuntu?

  - by gabiro

  I've been looking for an alternative Nokia PC suite for Ubuntu. I'm tired of switching OS, and I'm tired of using Windows it is so boring me. Not Wammu, Gammu, Nokuntu, Ginokki and Series 60. They don't work. Via cable. I need an application that can detect via cable (because I have a very different reason why I need it to detect via cable). Also after installing in Wine it can't detect the Phone and I think the installation didn't finish correctly. Thank You !

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• Laptop battery sometimes does not charge?

  - by user1880405

  So on my Asus K56C laptop running Ubuntu 14.04 (was same problem in 13.10) I got a problem that from time to time after I use laptop without cable (just on battery) it stops charging with cable. I can still use laptop indefinitely on cable, but it's not charging. The only solution is to remove and reinsert the battery, then it will charge. Now I wonder how does laptop 'knows' that battery was reinserted, and is it possible to simulate that from Ubuntu, maybe some command which refreshes battery? P.s.: this is not happening on Windows 8.1.

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• Cannot establish maximum resolution on ASUS PB278Q

  - by dentuzhik

  I've recently bought brand new ASUS PB278Q monitor. When trying to connect to my laptop, everything works great, except that I can't get the native resolution of my monitor (2560x1440) working. The automatic is 1920x1080. My graphic card is Nvidia GeForce 320m. Here's output from lspci for it: ~$ lspci | grep VGA 02:00.0 VGA compatible controller: NVIDIA Corporation GT216M [GeForce GT 320M] (rev a2) and also xrandr: ~$ xrandr Screen 0: minimum 8 x 8, current 3286 x 1437, maximum 8192 x 8192 VGA-0 disconnected (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) LVDS-0 connected primary 1366x768+0+669 (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) 344mm x 193mm 1366x768 60.0*+ HDMI-0 connected 1920x1080+1366+0 (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) 600mm x 340mm 1920x1080 60.0*+ 59.9 50.0 30.0 25.0 24.0 60.0 50.0 1680x1050 60.0 1440x900 59.9 1280x1024 75.0 60.0 1280x960 60.0 1280x800 59.8 1280x720 60.0 59.9 50.0 1152x864 75.0 1024x768 75.0 70.1 60.0 800x600 75.0 72.2 60.3 56.2 720x576 50.0 720x480 59.9 640x480 75.0 59.9 59.9 480x576 50.0 480x480 59.9 I have proprietary drivers installed on my machine, here's the info about the monitor from nvidia-settings (Actually I don't have enough reputation to post images, so here's the text): Chip Location: Internal Signal: TDMS Connection link: Single Native resolution: 2560x1440 Refresh rate: 60.00 Hz The monitor is connected to laptop via HDMI cable, and honestly I have no idea what version it is, and what version is my HDMI output of my graphics card. I tried to find how I can figure it out on the web, but had no luck. Also my video card has only VGA and HDMI outs so I can't test neither DVI-D cable nor DisplayPort. So apparently, there's some problem over there. At least I want to know exactly what's going on. I've tried to see if it a linux-specific problem, but windows also gave me the same resolution by default. What I've already tried: Connect through VGA (stupid one, of course it gave me 1920x1080). Checked two HDMI cables (not sure if they're the same or not, as mentioned above). Played around with xrandr and adding custom modes. Didn't help. Surfed for the info a lot on the web, but couldn't get appropriate results. Actually xrandr gives me the following: ~$ cvt 2560 1440 60 # 2560x1440 59.96 Hz (CVT 3.69M9) hsync: 89.52 kHz; pclk: 312.25 MHz Modeline "2560x1440_60.00" 312.25 2560 2752 3024 3488 1440 1443 1448 1493 -hsync +vsync ~$ xrandr --newmode "2560x1440_60.00" 312.25 2560 2752 3024 3488 1440 1443 1448 1493 -hsync +vsync ~$ xrandr Screen 0: minimum 8 x 8, current 3286 x 1437, maximum 8192 x 8192 VGA-0 disconnected (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) LVDS-0 connected 1366x768+0+669 (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) 344mm x 193mm 1366x768 60.0*+ HDMI-0 connected primary 1920x1080+1366+0 (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) 600mm x 340mm 1920x1080 60.0*+ 59.9 50.0 30.0 25.0 24.0 60.0 50.0 1680x1050 60.0 1440x900 59.9 1280x1024 75.0 60.0 1280x960 60.0 1280x800 59.8 1280x720 60.0 59.9 50.0 1152x864 75.0 1024x768 75.0 70.1 60.0 800x600 75.0 72.2 60.3 56.2 720x576 50.0 720x480 59.9 640x480 75.0 59.9 59.9 480x576 50.0 480x480 59.9 2560x1440_60.00 (0x34f) 312.2MHz h: width 2560 start 2752 end 3024 total 3488 skew 0 clock 89.5KHz v: height 1440 start 1443 end 1448 total 1493 clock 60.0Hz ~$ xrandr --addmode HDMI-0 2560x1440_60.00 X Error of failed request: BadMatch (invalid parameter attributes) Major opcode of failed request: 140 (RANDR) Minor opcode of failed request: 18 (RRAddOutputMode) Serial number of failed request: 29 Current serial number in output stream: 30 What I intend to do next: Try another HDMI cable? Try HDMI to DVI-D cable? Try HDMI to DisplayPort cable? Another type of adapters? VGA to DVI-D? Buy another laptop with another graphic card. Damn. My ideas pretty much end here. Any ideas? Any explanations why it isn't working are appreciated.

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• Determining the health of a Cisco switch port?

  - by ewwhite

  I've been chasing a packet-loss and network stability issue for a handful of end-users on an internal network for the past few days... These issues surfaced recently, however, the location was struck by lightning six weeks ago. I was seeing 5-10% packet loss between a stack of four Cisco 2960's and several PC's and phones on the other side of a 77-meter run. The PC's were run inline with the phones over a trunked link. We were seeing dropped calls and interruptions in client-server applications and Microsoft Exchange connectivity. I tried the usual troubleshooting steps remotely, having a local technician do the following during breaks in user and production activity: change cables between the wall jack and device. change patch cables between the patch panel and switch port(s). try different switch ports within the 2960 stack. change end-user devices with known-good equipment (new phones, different PC's). clear switch port interface counters and monitor incrementing errors closely. (Pastebin output of sh int) Pored over the device logs and Observium RRD graphs. No link up/down issues from the switch side. change power strips on the end-user side. test cable runs from the Cisco 2960 using test cable-diagnostics tdr int Gi4/0/9 (clean)* test cable runs with a Tripp-Lite cable tester. (clean) run diagnostics on the switch stack members. (clean) In the end, it took three changes of switch ports to find a stable solution. The only logical conclusion is that a few Cisco 2960 switch ports are bad or flaky... Not dead, but not consistent in behavior either. I'm not used to seeing individual ports die in this manner. What else can I test or check to determine if these devices are bad? Is it common for single ports to have problems, rather than a contiguous bank of ports? BTW - show cable-diagnostics tdr int Gi4/0/14 is very cool... Interface Speed Local pair Pair length Remote pair Pair status --------- ----- ---------- ------------------ ----------- -------------------- Gi4/0/14 1000M Pair A 79 +/- 0 meters Pair B Normal Pair B 75 +/- 0 meters Pair A Normal Pair C 77 +/- 0 meters Pair D Normal Pair D 79 +/- 0 meters Pair C Normal

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• Is my Cisco switch port bad?

  - by ewwhite

  I've been chasing a packet-loss and network stability issue for a handful of end-users on an internal network for the past few days... These issues surfaced last week, however the location was struck by lightning six weeks ago. I was seeing 5-10% packet loss between a stack of four Cisco 2960's and several PC's and phones on the other side of a 77-meter run. The PC's were run inline with the phones over a trunked link (switchport configuration pastebin). We were seeing dropped calls and interruptions in client-server applications and Microsoft Exchange connectivity. I tried the usual troubleshooting steps remotely, having a local technician do the following during breaks in user and production activity: change cables between the wall jack and device. change patch cables between the patch panel and switch port(s). try different switch ports within the 2960 stack. change end-user devices with known-good equipment (new phones, different PC's). clear switch port interface counters and monitor incrementing errors closely. (Pastebin output of sh int) Pored over the device logs and Observium RRD graphs. No link up/down issues from the switch side. change power strips on the end-user side. test cable runs from the Cisco 2960 using test cable-diagnostics tdr int Gi4/0/9 (clean)* test cable runs with a Tripp-Lite cable tester. (clean) run diagnostics on the switch stack members. (clean) In the end, it took three changes of switch ports to find a stable solution. The only logical conclusion is that a few Cisco 2960 switch ports are bad or flaky... Not dead, but not consistent in behavior either. I'm not used to seeing individual ports die in this manner. What else can I test or check to determine if these devices are bad? Is it common for single ports to have problems, rather than a contiguous bank of ports? BTW - show cable-diagnostics tdr int Gi4/0/14 is very cool... Interface Speed Local pair Pair length Remote pair Pair status --------- ----- ---------- ------------------ ----------- -------------------- Gi4/0/14 1000M Pair A 79 +/- 0 meters Pair B Normal Pair B 75 +/- 0 meters Pair A Normal Pair C 77 +/- 0 meters Pair D Normal Pair D 79 +/- 0 meters Pair C Normal

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• How do I force Windows 7 to recognize my Projector?

  - by user63564

  I have a new Dell XPS with an NVIDIA GeForce GT 445M and an old (several years) Epson PowerLite Cinema 550 projector. Windows 7 refuses to recognize that the projector is connected under normal conditions (I'll get to the strange condition in a moment). Here are some things that I have already tried: Confirm that the projector continues to work well on my old Windows XP laptop. Confirm that the video cable (HDMI to HDMI) is connected Make sure the Dell laptop is plugged in to wall power at all times Reboot both the computer and the projector Click "Detect" under the "Connect to an External Display" Windows dialog (no reaction) Click "Rigorous Display Detection" under NVIDIA Control Panel (dialog: none found) Checked "Force Television Detection on startup" under "My display is not shown..." in NVIDIA Control Panel (no effect) Here's where it gets weird... My projector has three states: off, standby and on. Standby means the power switch on the back is on, but the projector is effectively off (no picture, no access to menu or controls). When I plug in the HDMI cable while the projector is in standby, Windows detects the projector! It lets me switch to Duplicate, Extend, or Project Only mode, and adjusts the resolution appropriately. A new Generic Plug-n-Play monitor shows up in my device manager. A "Seiko EPSON PJ" display shows up in my NVIDIA control panel. Then if I turn my projector on, Windows no longer recognizes the display. This is true whether I turn the projector on while the HDMI cable is plugged in, or if I unplug the HDMI cable while turning on the projector. Anyone have any ideas, because I'm completely stumped...?

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• Why can I not access the internet when Windows 7 finds no issue with the ethernet connection and the network can see my device?

  - by WannabeCoder

  So I just moved from a house to an apartment. In the house and the apartment I had Uverse set up - and in both I had my desktop connected via a ~40 foot long cat5 cable. However, upon moving to the apartment I found that my ethernet connection no longer provides internet. This would seem like a mundane problem if not for: The router can see the computer on the network Windows 7 (the desktop's OS) detects no problems with the ethernet connection. Connections over the internet (i.e. browser windows, Pandora, etc.) do not immediately fail. Instead they load for 2 minutes and then finally give up. Devices connected over the Wifi (PS4, Laptop) access the internet just fine While removing the cat5 cable from my house, I accidentally damaged the locking tab but managed to bend it back into the appropriate position. I would suspect that a bad cat5 cable might be to blame if not for the above issues (thought I've heard bad cat5 cables cause the most nonsensical problems) and the fact that I tested the cat5 cable by having it share internet between my laptop (working internet) to my desktop and it functioned just fine and provided the desktop with internet. My ipconfig /all successfully finds a default gateway, DHCP server, and DNS server. What could possibly be causing the problem?

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• Two NIC's 2 Internet Connections, 1 Windows Server 2008 RC2, Routing help required

  - by PJZ

  Hello, I have a Windows 2008 server and 4 other client machines on my home network. I have two internet connections. The main connection is setup with a home router and DHCP on that for all the clients on the network. The secondary connection is just a cable modem which is plugged directly into the server. Local Area Connection: This NIC has an external IP and is connected to the Cable Modem. Local Area Connection 2: This NIC has an internal IP (192.168.0.102) and allows access to all the internal computers. It also has internet access via the local router. So here lies the problem, I want to use the Cable connection on the server for the internet traffic (so that the traffic for server/clients are seperated) but I also need to maintain local access. I am wondering how to make it so that all the internet traffic goes via that NIC because at the moment it goes through the local NIC. As a secondary problem I would also like to forward the connection of one application used by the clients via the server and the cable/server internet because of poor routing for it on the main connection. This perhaps is something for another question though. Thanks for any help you can offer me. Regards PJ

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• Are HDMI to VGA Adapters Really Device-Specific?

  - by allquixotic

  There are a lot of devices on the market right now (especially mobile devices) with a Micro-HDMI or Mini-HDMI port and no VGA or D-Sub output. Most manufacturers of said devices sell a cable that looks something like this: I have yet to find a cable like this that claims to work on a wide array of devices. In general, these cables claim to work with one specific device only. The way these cables work, I think, is that analog VGA signals are sent from the HDMI port on the device. This should work for devices that have special hardware on the motherboard/GPU capable of driving this. Is it the case that these cables have to be custom designed for each device? Or, is it rather that any device which possesses this special "signaling of analog VGA over the HDMI port" can be made to work with a cable that is physically compatible (i.e. the HDMI end plugs into the device and the VGA end accepts a VGA monitor cable)? Note that I am not looking for a product recommendation, just a conceptual clarification on what exactly these devices are doing. Also, a few remarks: The cables like the one depicted here are not digital to analog converters. I know about these: they are expensive, and they are the ONLY solution if your device only outputs a digital signal and is incapable of driving analog VGA over the HDMI port. The cables like the one depicted here are not straight crossover cables from VGA to HDMI, either. The crossover cables are designed to send a digital HDMI signal over the VGA port's wires; that is, the wire protocol is HDMI (digital) but the physical pinout is the same as VGA, even though nothing analog is happening. Once again, this is not the behavior that, I believe, the devices which I'm talking about in this question are doing. The cabling and devices that this question is about transmit the analog VGA data over the HDMI port (the HDMI port is in the device outputting the data, and the VGA side is the monitor/projector).

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• Windows Explorer slow to open networked computer, fast to navigate once opened

  - by Scott Noyes

  I open Windows Explorer and enter an IP for a computer on my home network (\\192.168.1.101). It takes 30 seconds or more to present a list of the shared folders. It does not appear to be an initial handshaking/authentication thing; even if I allow the view to load and then immediately load the same again, it is always slow. Once they appear, navigating through folders and opening files is fast. Also, navigating directly to a folder (\\192.168.1.101\My Music) is fast, even if it's the first connection since a restart. Using \\computerName instead of the IP address gives exactly the same results. Pings return in 1ms. net view \\computerName (or \ipAddress) returns the list of shared folders fast. This makes me suspect an Explorer issue rather than a network issue. Suspecting that the remote computer was being automatically indexed or something, I went into Tools-Folder Options-View and unchecked "Automatically search for network folders and printers," but that made no difference. De-selecting the "Folders" icon near the address bar makes no difference. Adding the IP address and computer name to the hosts file makes no difference. Both computers involved are laptops running Windows XP. Both have WiFi and cable adapters. Mine is not connected via cable. The result is the same whether the target is plugged in to the cable or not (although the IP address changes - 192.168.1.101 over cable, 192.168.1.103 over WiFi.) We are using DHCP assigned by the router.

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• Broad Band LAN connection through existing 6 wire phone line ( no phone connected )

  - by Paul Taylor

  I have an (up to but never achieved ) 10 mb broadband signal coming into my house along the telephone line. The modem then connects the broadband signal via a LAN connection and Wi-Fi signal to my computers and iPad. My workshop desk is 54 yards (approx. 50m) downhill from the modem (part of a separate building) – too far to give a good direct signal. The inside corner of the workshop (by a window) receives a weak signal. I have a disconnected telephone cable consisting of 6 wires going from the house to the workshop. The telephone is no longer used in the workshop - we use our mobile number for business calls. A broad band signal using the cable would not have to share with a phone. What would be the most economic price/efficient way to get the broadband signal to the workshop? I am writing in hope that since the telephone didn't need the six wires, an Ethernet connection might be similar and not need all the eight wires for a LAN connection. In theory could use the telephone wire to pull an Ethernet cable trough the underground pipe but I doubt if the cable would survive the strain. The broad band connection in the workshop does not have to have network facility. My skill level is high enough to do house wiring, plumbing and gas fitting; so given any sound advice and a wiring diagram or instructions I can probably work out the rest myself.

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• How to send from my Z88 to my PC

  - by Bevan

  I've got a Cambridge Z88 that I want to get working with my PC. Around 6 years ago - in 2004 - I made heavy use of my Z88 to do a whole bunch of writing on the train while commuting to and from work. The Z88 is solid state, lightweight and has a full size silent keyboard, so it works very well as a writing instrument. I still have the serial cable I soldered up back then and used successfully in 2004. It has these connections: Z88 9 pin ----- ------- 2 TxD ------> RxD 2 3 RxD <------ TxD 3 7 GND <-----> GND 5 4 RTS ------> CTS 8 5 CTS <-+ RTS 7 8 DCD <-+---- DTR 4 9 DTR ----+-> DCD 1 +-> DSR 6 Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find my notes from 2004 that describe how I got it to work back then. I've spent several hours trying to Google a result, but to no avail. I'm pretty sure the cable is fine - after all, it's what I used successfully six years ago, and I've checked it out with a multimeter - so I'm focusing on the PC end of things, which is where I'd like some assistance. Q1: In my recent attempts, I've been using both Hyperterminal (as built into Windows XP) and the command line (copy com2: con:), but with no success. What's a good (better!) serial communications application to use? Is there one that allows me to see as deep as the signalling that's occurring on the wire? Q2: If you have a Z88 that works correctly with your PC, what software do you use on the PC end, and what's the pinout of your cable? I'm pretty sure that the Z88 itself is working properly: When using the built in Import/Export tool to send a file, I see different behaviour when my serial cable is connected compared to disconnected. When disconnected, the transmission appears to work, with a progress meter counting up and then finishing; when connected, nothing happens 'cept a timeout if I wait long enough.

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