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  • Switched from DVI to HDMI, possible audio artifacts?

    - by I take Drukqs
    I'm using an ASUS VH236H monitor and an EVGA GeForce 570 GTX both of which are brand new. My monitor has an audio out port for speakers/headphones so I plugged in my headphones and made a random selection from my library when I noticed two things: There are static-like artifacts during "louder" parts of songs. There's what seems to be a volume cap in place. When I crank the volume past 100% in VLC the decibel level does not truly increase but the amount of static does. The cable is not new; I yanked it off of my PS3 when my DVI cable broke. It has been used a good amount on my HDTV and PS3 so I doubt it's a matter of burn-in. I like the way the setup works with an HDMI cable as opposed to DVI because my headphones barely reach my rig whereas I have plenty of slack when they're plugged into my monitor. Thanks in advance for any support. Note: I'm using a high quality HDMI cable from monoprice, AKG K702 headphones, and VLC media player.

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  • Gigabyte H55N-USB3: No video on HDMI

    - by newt
    I built a new PC with a Gigabyte H55N-USB3 / Intel Core i5 650. With a monitor plugged in the DVI port, everything works fine. I installed Windows 7 32-bit and enabled remote desktop connection. After that, I unplugged the monitor, plugged it into network and installed everything else (drivers, programs, etc) via RDP. However, when I try to use the HDMI port on my TV nothing appears. Neither during the boot, neither after Windows starts. The TV says there's "no signal" (if I remove the cable the message changes to "check cable"). The cable is new, and it is working fine with my home theater on same TV (by the way, it is the cable which came bundled with the home theater). Video driver is the latest from Intel site. Anyway, this shouldn't be the problem since there is no image during the boot. Any ideas or tips would be welcome. I'm googling around but found nothing useful, yet.

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  • wireless to wired internet

    - by Mark T
    My wife uses an old computer which doesn't really like having an internet connection via a USB wireless adapter. I've tried several, and none have been satisfactory. The connection gets dropped often and it is frustrating for her. A wireless card also had the same trouble. Repositioning the computer made no difference. (Two laptops, nearby, connect just fine and stay up, so it isn't the router.) However, the computer always worked well when I had an Ethernet cable connected to it. I know there is a box which will connect to my wireless network and provide an Ethernet cable connection. But the terminology used is so complex, I can't tell what it is I really need. In case that wasn't clear, here it is in different words: What I need is just the opposite of a wireless router. My wireless router takes my cable modem's Ethernet connection and makes it available to wireless clients. What I want is a box which is a wireless client to my wireless router and provides an Ethernet cable connection that I can connect to any device. I need to know the right name for a box with such capabilities. If you know of some inexpensive examples, that would also be helpful. I'm running a wireless G network with a Linksys Router.

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  • Route all traffic of home network through VPN

    - by user436118
    I have a typical semi advanced home network scenario: A cable modem - eth A wireless router (netgear n600) eth and wlan A home server (Running ubuntu 12.04 LTS, connected over wlan) A bunch of wireless clients (wlan) Lying around I have anoher cheaper wlan router, and two different USB wlan NIC's that are known to work with Linux. ACTA struck. I want to route ALL of my WAN traffic through a remote server through a VPN. For sake of completition, lets say there is a remote server running debian sqeeze where a VPN server is to be installed. The network is then to behave so that if the VPN is not operative, it is separated from the outside world. I am familiar with general system/network practices, but lack the specific detailed knowledge to accomplish this. Please suggest the right approach, packages and configurations you'd use to reach said solution. I've also envisioned the following network configuration, please improve it if you see fit: ==LAN== Client ip:10.1.1.x nm:255.0.0.0 gw:10.1.1.1 reached via WLAN Wlan router 1: ip: 10.1.1.1 nm:255.0.0.0 gw: 10.10.10.1 reached via ETH Homeserver: <<< VPN is initiated here, and the other endpoint is somewhere on the internet. eth0: ip:10.10.10.1 nm: 0.0.0.0 gw:192.168.0.1 reached via WLAN Homeserver: wlan0: ip: 192.168.0.2 nm: 255.255.255.0 gw: 192.168.0.1 reached via WLAN ==WAN== Wlan router 2: ip: 192.168.0.1 nm: 0.0.0.0 gw: set via dhcp uplink connector: cable modem Cable Modem: Remote DHCP. Has on-board DHCP server for ethernet device that connects to it, and only works this way. All this WLAN fussery is because my home server is located in a part of the house where a cable link isnt possible unfortunately.

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  • Create a wifi hotspot in a place where an authentication is required [closed]

    - by SoftTimur
    I live in a residence where Internet is provided via cable. Once the computer is connected to the cable, launching a browser will trigger an authentication, I have a username and password to enter, then the internet will be connected. With a gateway (e.g. Wireless Cable Voice Gateway Model CBVG834G) and 2 cables, two PCs can connect to the Internet with my account at the same time. Now the question is, I don't like the cable, and would like to create a wifi hotspot. It seems realizable with the same gateway. According to the instruction on page 2-4 of the manual: Enter http://192.168.0.1 in the address field of your Internet browser. Log in to the gateway with either of the default user names, MSO or admin... However, trying to open 192.168.0.1 gives me an error on the browser. Does anyone know what happened? Is it due to the authentication required by my residence? Is there any other way to build a hotspot of wifi? PS: My system is MAC OS

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  • Route all traffic of home network through VPN [migrated]

    - by user436118
    I have a typical semi advanced home network scenario: A cable modem - eth A wireless router (netgear n600) eth and wlan A home server (Running ubuntu 12.04 LTS, connected over wlan) A bunch of wireless clients (wlan) Lying around I have anoher cheaper wlan router, and two different USB wlan NIC's that are known to work with Linux. ACTA struck. I want to route ALL of my WAN traffic through a remote server through a VPN. For sake of completition, lets say there is a remote server running debian sqeeze where a VPN server is to be installed. The network is then to behave so that if the VPN is not operative, it is separated from the outside world. I am familiar with general system/network practices, but lack the specific detailed knowledge to accomplish this. Please suggest the right approach, packages and configurations you'd use to reach said solution. I've also envisioned the following network configuration, please improve it if you see fit: Client ip:10.1.1.x nm:255.0.0.0 gw:10.1.1.1 reached via WLAN Wlan router 1: ip: 10.1.1.1 nm:255.0.0.0 gw: 10.10.10.1 reached via ETH Homeserver: <<< VPN is initiated here, and the other endpoint is somewhere on the internet. eth0: ip:10.10.10.1 nm: 0.0.0.0 gw:192.168.0.1 reached via WLAN Homeserver: wlan0: ip: 192.168.0.2 nm: 255.255.255.0 gw: 192.168.0.1 reached via WLAN Wlan router 2: ip: 192.168.0.1 nm: 0.0.0.0 gw: set via dhcp uplink connector: cable modem Cable Modem: Remote DHCP. Has on-board DHCP server for ethernet device that connects to it, and only works this way. All this WLAN fussery is because my home server is located in a part of the house where a cable link isnt possible unfortunately.

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  • Can no longer duplicate display to external monitor on Windows 7

    - by rbeier
    We have a large TV at work - I connect my laptop to it to share my screen during meetings. Until today, my laptop display has been duplicating to the TV automatically when I connect the TV cable to the laptop. The display resolution would decrease automatically to be compatible with the TV. Today, however, it's stopped working. When I connect the cable to the TV, the display extends rather than duplicating. Using the Win+P key combination (or Fn+F7 on my Lenovo laptop), I can choose to duplicate the display - but when I do this, it ends up only displaying on the laptop. I can get it to display on the TV by hitting Win+P and choosing "projector only", but then I can't see what I'm doing on the laptop screen. I have a Lenovo W520 laptop running Windows 7, connected to the TV using a DisplayPort-to-HDMI converter cable. The TV's native resolution is 1280x720; the laptop's native resolution is 1600x900. I've tried booting with the TV cable already connected; I've tried manually lowering the display resolution on the laptop to 1280x720 before duplicating the display. Neither works. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

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  • How to Play PC Games on Your TV

    - by Chris Hoffman
    No need to wait for Valve’s Steam Machines — connect your Windows gaming PC to your TV and use powerful PC graphics in the living room today. It’s easy — you don’t need any unusual hardware or special software. This is ideal if you’re already a PC gamer who wants to play your games on a larger screen. It’s also convenient if you want to play multiplayer PC games with controllers in your living rom. HDMI Cables and Controllers You’ll need an HDMI cable to connect your PC to your television. This requires a TV with HDMI-in, a PC with HDMI-out, and an HDMI cable. Modern TVs and PCs have had HDMI built in for years, so you should already be good to go. If you don’t have a spare HDMI cable lying around, you may have to buy one or repurpose one of your existing HDMI cables. Just don’t buy the expensive HDMI cables — even a cheap HDMI cable will work just as well as a more expensive one. Plug one end of the HDMI cable into the HDMI-out port on your PC and one end into the HDMI-In port on your TV. Switch your TV’s input to the appropriate HDMI port and you’ll see your PC’s desktop appear on your TV.  Your TV becomes just another external monitor. If you have your TV and PC far away from each other in different rooms, this won’t work. If you have a reasonably powerful laptop, you can just plug that into your TV — or you can unplug your desktop PC and hook it up next to your TV. Now you’ll just need an input device. You probably don’t want to sit directly in front of your TV with a wired keyboard and mouse! A wireless keyboard and wireless mouse can be convenient and may be ideal for some games. However, you’ll probably want a game controller like console players use. Better yet, get multiple game controllers so you can play local-multiplayer PC games with other people. The Xbox 360 controller is the ideal controller for PC gaming. Windows supports these controllers natively, and many PC games are designed specifically for these controllers. Note that Xbox One controllers aren’t yet supported on Windows because Microsoft hasn’t released drivers for them. Yes, you could use a third-party controller or go through the process of pairing a PlayStation controller with your PC using unofficial tools, but it’s better to get an Xbox 360 controller. Just plug one or more Xbox controllers into your PC’s USB ports and they’ll work without any setup required. While many PC games to support controllers, bear in mind that some games require a keyboard and mouse. A TV-Optimized Interface Use Steam’s Big Picture interface to more easily browse and launch games. This interface was designed for using on a television with controllers and even has an integrated web browser you can use with your controller. It will be used on the Valve’s Steam Machine consoles as the default TV interface. You can use a mouse with it too, of course. There’s also nothing stopping you from just using your Windows desktop with a mouse and keyboard — aside from how inconvenient it will be. To launch Big Picture Mode, open Steam and click the Big Picture button at the top-right corner of your screen. You can also press the glowing Xbox logo button in the middle of an Xbox 360 Controller to launch the Big Picture interface if Steam is open. Another Option: In-Home Streaming If you want to leave your PC in one room of your home and play PC games on a TV in a different room, you can consider using local streaming to stream games over your home network from your gaming PC to your television. Bear in mind that the game won’t be as smooth and responsive as it would if you were sitting in front of your PC. You’ll also need a modern router with fast wireless network speeds to keep up with the game streaming. Steam’s built-in In-Home Streaming feature is now available to everyone. You could plug a laptop with less-powerful graphics hardware into your TV and use it to stream games from your powerful desktop gaming rig. You could also use an older desktop PC you have lying around. To stream a game, log into Steam on your gaming PC and log into Steam with the same account on another computer on your home network. You’ll be able to view the library of installed games on your other PC and start streaming them. NVIDIA also has their own GameStream solution that allows you to stream games from a PC with powerful NVIDIA graphics hardware. However, you’ll need an NVIDIA Shield handheld gaming console to do this. At the moment, NVIDIA’s game streaming solution can only stream to the NVIDIA Shield. However, the NVIDIA Shield device can be connected to your TV so you can play that streaming game on your TV. Valve’s Steam Machines are supposed to bring PC gaming to the living room and they’ll do it using HDMI cables, a custom Steam controller, the Big Picture interface, and in-home streaming for compatibility with Windows games. You can do all of this yourself today — you’ll just need an Xbox 360 controller instead of the not-yet-released Steam controller. Image Credit: Marco Arment on Flickr, William Hook on Flickr, Lewis Dowling on Flickr

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  • Where do SATA drives get their power when using a PCI SATA controller on oler PCs?

    - by Sukima
    I've been looking into PCI SATA controller cards online for an older PC and noticed that the ports only have the SATA cable connector and the Power supply does not have the SATA power connectors. I also had a few external eSATA drives which don't power up unless I also plugin the USB cable. Therefore I realize that SATA and eSATA do not carry power and need power else where. When converting older PCs to use a PCI SATA controller how do you provide power to the SATA drives? Anticipating the answer to be some kind of converter cable (which I was unable to search for) then can older power supplies handle added drives? (Assuming a 4 port SATA controller means 4 more drives the power supply has to endure). Or do you have to get a second poer supply and kinda jerry-rig it into an old case?

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  • graphics cards with no HDMI output

    - by Noam Gal
    I am currently looking at Gainward GTX260 896MB GS GLH, but I've seen it also on the x275 version - the card doesn't have an HDMI output, only two dvi and one tv out (s-video?). They claim they support HDMI using a dvi-HDMI converter. Will I get a true high definition quality on my TV (assuming it supports it) like that? Or is it not as good, and I should stick to cards that have an HDMI output (ATI), or pay way too much for x295? What about connecting the audio? The x260 comes with an internal spdif cable - does that mean I can connect my soundcard to my graphics card, and have the audio come out through the dvi, and into the HDMI cable? Or am I mixing it all up here, and I have to somehow connect the sound to the TV using a seperate cable (Hoping it has a seperate audio-in for the HDMI channel)?

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  • external HDD with SATA & USB interface? [closed]

    - by GregH
    Anyone know of an external HDD that would have (in addition to USB) a SATA (eSATA) port/cable? i.e. Brand/Model Background - In one location I want to use it is I would like to increase the performance by cabling it directly to the PC SATA port, HOWEVER I don't want to have to open up the PC to do this each time. I was thinking of running a SATA cable out through the PC case so I just plug it directly into the external HDD in question. Perhaps it should be also externally powered too so I don't need to run a power cable out from the PC power supply.

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  • VPN Network intermittantly fails to provide internet: What could be possible causes

    - by Jake M
    We have a small office with our own VPN setup. We occasionally experience failures in our internet connection where we cannot access the internet. Most of the time the internet connection will resume by itself(without me doing anything) after a period of time(10 mins). Would you be able to suggest possible causes of the connection failure so I can then go and run some tests? Our network architecture is like so: A 'Billion' brand router that is connected to the internet via phone cable and then connected to our Cisco Switch A Cisco Switch/Bus which is connected to all our office nodes, our external harddrive and also to our router as stated above. All connections are via ethernet cable A series of work computers(nodes) connected via ethernet cable to the Cisco switch. Our ISP is TPG Australia We have a Virtual Private Network All the ethernet cables are about 3 years old Do you think that the causes of our intermittant connection problems could be due to the following: Data collisions in the ethernet cables Old/Faulty ethernet cables Our ISP has bad service Can you think of any other causes of the problem?

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  • X-FI optical output not being recognized.

    - by Luciano
    Hello there! I have an issue and I don't know what to do! I have a SoundBlaster X-FI Xtreme Gamer, which has a spdif mini-optical output. I have it connected to a home theater, via a toslink cable and an adapter to fit in the mini plug. It used to work perfectly, but now it doesn't anymore. There is light travelling through the cable, but the HT doesn't pick up the signal. The sound card of the motherboard also has an optical output (regular, not mini) and it works ok, so the cable and the HT are fine, I think. What else should I try? Thanks, Luciano. PS: I only enabled the onboard card for testing, but usually it's disabled to avoid any kind of conflicts. PPS: I'm using Windows 7 64bit with latest drivers of everything, but like I said. It used to work.

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  • How to force a resolution in linux?

    - by hi
    I have a HP LP3065 that requires a dual link dvi cable to go up to 2560x1600 resolution. However, I do not have that cable, but I want to use 1920x1200 resolution. However, my nVidia Display Settings (also system display settings) will only go up to 1280x1024, which looks horribly pixelated on the 30". How do I force the 1920x1200 resolution? I tried adding the mode into my xorg.conf file, but it still would not take it. I know my vid card can do 1920x1200 since it works on the 24" monitor with the same dvi cable. Here are my specs: Fedora 12 Nvidia Quadro NVS 420 Intel Xenon E5530 cpu 6gig memory Thanks

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  • Mac OS X: pushing all traffic through a VMWare VM [closed]

    - by bj99
    I want to set up an Astaro (Sophos) UTM in a Virtual Machine. The Setup should be at the end the following: Cable Modem (one IP adress) | [Ethernet] Sophos UTM (running as VM [VMWare Fusion 5] on the MacMini) | [WIFI] Airport Express v2 (for sharing Local Network to wireless and wired clients) 1)| [WIFI] 2)| [Ethernet over Thunderbolt Ethernet Adapter]* Clients MacMini (Local File Server) *To have the Mini also protected behind the UTM So the setup process for the UTM works fine, but then the problems start: I just have one external IP (from my cable modem provider)== So if I put the VM in briged mode my Internet connection drops, because the MacMini also has its IP adress. If I put the VM to NAT mode the Mini itself is not protected by the UTM So: is there a way to hide the en0 interface(Ethernet) and the en1 interface (Wifi) from the MacMini, so that they not even appear in System Preferences Network section but are available to the VM? That way the Mini must connect to the en2 interface (Thunderbolt adapter) to make any Internet/LAN connection and I just use the given single IP from the Cable Modem. Thaks for any suggestions... Sebastian

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  • 3.5mm headphone jack -> Component video?

    - by Isaac Waller
    Hello, I have a strange cord that has a male 3.5mm headphone jack on one side, and some component video and audio ouputs on the other. When I plug the headphone side into my computer, and the other side into my TV, I get audio across the cable, but no video. How can I send some video over the headphone jack in OS X? I know you can, because this cable is actually for a Beyblade toy and it somehow transferred video over this cable. Thanks, Isaac I think I found some more information (from Wikipedia:) "A four conductor version (of a 3.5mm headphone jack) is becoming a de facto standard output connector for compact camcorders, providing stereo sound plus a video signal." So how can I do this on Mac?

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  • Do all the network cards use the same frequency to send signals to wire?

    - by smwikipedia
    I am comparing my cable TV wire to my network wire. In a TV cable wire, different frequencies are used by different TV channels. And since a certain channel use a fixed frequency, I think the only left way to represent different signal is with the carrier wave's amplitude. But what about the network wire? For all the network cards with the same type, do they also use different frequencies to send signals just like TV cable? I vaguely remember that they use frequency adjustment to represent signals. So the frequency should not be a fixed one. So how did all the network cards that sharing the same medium differentiate their own signal from others?

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  • Laptop charger disconnects and reconnects, charger or battery broken?

    - by Rob
    I've got an Acer Aspire One netbook (AOA-150) and there's obviously something wrong with it. The charging port gets VERY HOT and the charger seems to disconnect and reconnect quickly sometimes. This only happens when the netbook is running, and it doesn't seem to care what it's doing other than being on. The battery has an extremely short life (< 30minutes, sometimes) and I almost exclusively run it on the power cable (which needs the battery plugged in. Having it just plugged into the wall won't start up). Does this sound like a problem with the power cable or the battery? The plug for the cable and the port get so hot that if I held them for longer than a few seconds, I'm sure I'd get burnt. EDIT Just got "Popular Question" on this and it WAS the power jack. The ground on it came loose from the board. A bit of solder on it and everything is working great again.

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  • Connect to development server via switch?

    - by letseatfood
    I apologize upfront if this isn't appropriate for superuser. I asked it on serverfault and was told it was too general for that site. I have a laptop with Vista and it receives it's internet connection wireless. I have an old desktop with Ubuntu 10.04 Server Edition installed and it is setup as a development server with Apache, MySQL, and PHP. This works well, with the server having a static IP address. The server is connected to the router via an Ethernet cable. Is it possible to disconnect the cable that is currently connecting the server and the router, then connect the server and workstation to a switch, so that I am still able to connect to the server via web browser from the workstation? I am trying to eliminate the long ethernet cable connecting the server to the router in the other room. I already have a switch, that is why I asked specifically about it. Thanks and I will be more than happy to clarify!

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  • Sharing internet connection from Windows XP using wi-fi router

    - by Darius
    Hi, I have an network configuration like: Ethernet cable from ISP connected to Windows XP machine, configured with static IP 192.168.0.3 Another ethernet connection from 2nd Windows XP machine's network adapter to a Wi-Fi router (D-Link Airport G+) XP set to "Share internet connection", the 2nd adapter configured as static to 192.169.0.1 D-Link Airport Wi-Fi router also configured as "static connection", it's IP set to 192.169.0.2, default gateway set to 192.169.0.1. Network mask everywhere is 24. Laptop computer connected with the router with static IP 192.169.0.3 The problems are: XP machine sees the router (it's able to ping it and access it via the web admin tool) The router somehow cannot PING the XP machine (using the tool provided by the web-based admin tool) The laptop computer cannot ping anything and cannot be pinged The router is only accessible when the ethernet cable is connected with a router's 1-4 LAN port, when I connect it via "WAN" port (which I believe is the proper one) it's not visible from the XP machine If you have similar experience with configuring a network like this I would really appreciate your help. I cannot use the Wi-Fi router with the ISP cable itself.

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  • external HDD with SATA & USB interface?

    - by Greg
    Anyone know of an external HDD that would have (in addition to USB) a SATA (eSATA) port/cable? i.e. Brand/Model. Preferably one of the name brands so I have a better change of finding it here or locally if possible. Background - In one location I want to use it is I would like to increase the performance by cabling it directly to the PC SATA port, HOWEVER I don't want to have to open up the PC to do this each time. I was thinking of running a SATA cable out through the PC case so I just plug it directly into the external HDD in question. Perhaps it should be also externally powered too so I don't need to run a power cable out from the PC power supply.

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  • Is there a performance difference between Cat5 and Cat6 keystone blocks?

    - by Scott Anderson
    I'm going to be wiring my home for ethernet soon, and I've already decided that I want to use Cat6 cable to do it (faster speeds, better performance, etc). During the installation, I'd like to add wall-plates to certain rooms in my house, and the keystone blocks look like the best option for me. My question is: I've seen different keystone blocks on many cabling websites, some say Cat5e and some say Cat6. The Cat6 ones are slightly more expensive. Is there any noticeable performance gain from using a Cat6 keystone? To me, it just seems like the keystone really wouldn't matter, since it's basically like putting an RJ-45 end on a cable. Can I buy the cheaper Cat5e keystone blocks and still have the performance that Cat6 cable will give me? Thanks!

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  • Mac OS X: pushing all traffic through a VMWare VM

    - by bj99
    I want to set up an Astaro (Sophos) UTM in a Virtual Machine. The Setup should be at the end the following: Cable Modem (one IP adress) | [Ethernet] Sophos UTM (running as VM [VMWare Fusion 5] on the MacMini) | [WIFI] Airport Express v2 (for sharing Local Network to wireless and wired clients) 1)| [WIFI] 2)| [Ethernet over Thunderbolt Ethernet Adapter]* Clients MacMini (Local File Server) *To have the Mini also protected behind the UTM So the setup process for the UTM works fine, but then the problems start: I just have one external IP (from my cable modem provider)== So if I put the VM in briged mode my Internet connection drops, because the MacMini also has its IP adress. If I put the VM to NAT mode the Mini itself is not protected by the UTM So: is there a way to hide the en0 interface(Ethernet) and the en1 interface (Wifi) from the MacMini, so that they not even appear in System Preferences Network section but are available to the VM? That way the Mini must connect to the en2 interface (Thunderbolt adapter) to make any Internet/LAN connection and I just use the given single IP from the Cable Modem. Thaks for any suggestions... Sebastian

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  • Windows 7 unload driver/disconnect usb before restart

    - by brux
    In xp, my Tascam US 122 usb audio interface works fine. On my windows 7 computer the device works, however when i restart/shutdown it hangs at the "shutting down" screen forever. If the usb cable is removed prior to initiating restart/shutdown then everything goes fine, the computer restarts as normal. This is a known problem, running any other driver in compatibility mode doesnt fix the problem. Is there a method I can use to unload the device/drivers so that I dont have to reach round physically and disconnect the cable. Somebody suggested a spdt switch on the cable itself, but I am looking for a simpler method. Surely I can automate the unloading of the device through a script or such? Any ideas are greatly welcomed thanks

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  • Does a bad Internet connection increase bandwidth usage?

    - by Synetech
    My (Rogers) cable connection has been pretty bad recently (channels 3 and 10 are particularly fuzzy—it’s analog, not digital cable). Not surprisingly, this has caused my cable modem to drop out and have to reestablish a connection a couple of times since it started. The poor connection of course means higher corruption (not necessarily dropped per se) which causes the TCP/IP stack to have to retransmit packets more often. Reduction of bandwidth throughput aside, I got to wondering if it increases the actual bandwidth usage. That is, if there is a high error rate on the line causing packets to have to be retransmitted: Does this increase a bandwidth monitoring program’s numbers? Does the ISP count the retransmitted packets toward the monthly cap? Based on what I remember from my university networking courses and common sense, I have a feeling that the answer to both questions is yes, but I cannot reliably measure the first, and have no authoritative answer for the second. I’m wondering if maybe the retransmitted packets are acknowledged as being duplicates and thus not counted somewhere along the line.

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