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  • Windows 7 playback of dvr-Microsoft files stutters

    - by Jim Lynn
    I've just had to install Windows 7 on my Media Center machine because my Vista installation had a faulty drive. I've got the latest drivers that I can find - Intel 945GM integrated Graphics, Realtek audio drivers. Things are working OK with one exception. Playback of old recordings, from dvr-Microsoft format files, is choppy. The picture freezes for a fraction of a second, then quickly catches up. The sound is uninterrupted and doesn't pause. These freezes happen once every 5 seconds or so. It's very regular. Playback of Live TV from the digital tuner is perfectly smooth. DVD playback is perfectly smooth. As an experiment, I used the MPEG editing package VideoReDo to create a small test file in three different formats. This program takes the raw MPEG streams and repackages them into the desired container. I took the same clip and created three files in three formats: dvr-Microsoft (Microsoft's old recorded TV format); mpg (standard MPEG); and ts (raw MPEG transport stream of the kind often produced by PVRs). When these three files are played back under Windows 7, the mpg and ts files play smoothly, but the dvr-Microsoft file stutters. The last piece of data I have is that two other Windows 7 machines can play back dvr-Microsoft files smoothly with no stuttering. One is a netbook, with less grunt than the media centre. So there must be something specific about my Media Center machine that's causing the problem. Does anyone have any idea where I can look now? I don't know much about AV software, codecs, filter graphs etc. but I suspect that's where the problem lies. Rendering the video isn't the problem, but extracting the streams is. How would I go about diagnosing the problem? Edited to add: I just used the GraphStudio tool to look at the filter graph on the offending PC. The filter graph it uses by default for dvr-Microsoft looks identical to the other machines, and, interestingly, when I play the files using GraphStudio they run smoothly. Under Windows Media Player and Windows Media Center they stutter. I'd like to see the filter graph for Windows Media Player but GraphStudio won't show it. It looks like Windows Media Player and WMC are using a different decoding path to GraphStudio. Edited again to add: Today I purchased a new HDTV. The same Media Center driving the TV at 1080p is now playing back the old Recorded TV files smoothly, without stuttering. So whatever the cause of the original problem, using a different resolution seems to have removed the problem. It might also explain why nobody else has had this problem. I doubt many people use Media Centre with a 14in portable TV.

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  • HID USB Very Strange Problem...

    - by Lasanha
    I realy hope some one can help me here cause i search all over the web and nothing comes up.. I allways used PS/2 KB and Mouse and a USB KeyPad (Genius ErgoMedia 500 Gaming Explorer) to play some games, mmorpg, fps, you named, very good whit 11 keys whit possible macros etc etc... Now it comes the problem, i have a USB mouse that have 4 extra buttons, and i need more button, i love buttons.. Well, i plug in the USB mouse and disconectes de PS/2. Everything is ok until i toutch the mouse. If i do so, the ErgoMedia goes off, then on, then i mouse the mouse or press a button and all over again. Yesterday i went buying a new mouse that i liked, a USB mouse too (NPlay whit macros and all that stuff 3600dpi...) Hoping the problem was only whit the other mouse, but no.. It does the exact same thing, ErgoMedia keeps disconecting and conecting everytime i toutch the mouse. What i allready did: Update drivers of both mouses Update drivers of ErgoMedia (no specific drivers(Windows based)) Update drivers of MB Chipset (Actualy no, cause it was up to date allready) Trying other USB Ports (4 Ports back, 4 Ports Front and even 1 Port in 16 card slot device) Disable the "Allows Windows to shut down the energy bla bla" thing in Device Setings. Look up in the Device Setings only apear a problem on the ergomedia (Human interface Device) when i move the damm mouse.. Using Everest to read behavier, everything normal, exepts the disconecting thing, but no errors. Not a power suply, only the ErgoMedia and the mouse are in the USBs, and i allready disable the 16 card reader whit one usb slot to see.. Clean the IRQ registry. Look the entire internet for a fix solution. Help others problems wile looking for a fix for me (Im not a pro but not a completly stupid) Talking to you beggin you to help me as a last resorce... Machine: Acer M3641 Core2Quad 64x Based OS Vista 64b 4GbRAM HD Audio and Graphics I realy hope some one out there knows a fix for this, maybe it´s a simple thing, so simple that i´m to stupid to see that.. Sorry for my bad inglish but i write lot of erros even in my language. Any help will be very welcome. Tanks for ur concern and atention ^^

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  • Graphics driver for ubuntu on dell latitude XT

    - by marc.riera
    we have a laptop (dell latitude xt) on our company, and we would like to install ubuntu on it. windows 7 works fine out of the box, so the hardware is fine. since this laptop has a touchscreen we just installed ubuntu 10.10 netbook edition 32x. But, we do not manage to enable the touchscreen, neither the vga graphic drivers. this is the output from lspci, if somebody cares. 00:00.0 Host bridge: ATI Technologies Inc Radeon Xpress 7930 Host Bridge 00:01.0 PCI bridge: ATI Technologies Inc RS7932 PCI Bridge 00:04.0 PCI bridge: ATI Technologies Inc Device 7934 00:06.0 PCI bridge: ATI Technologies Inc RS7936 PCI Bridge 00:07.0 PCI bridge: ATI Technologies Inc Device 7937 00:13.0 USB Controller: ATI Technologies Inc SB600 USB (OHCI0) 00:13.1 USB Controller: ATI Technologies Inc SB600 USB (OHCI1) 00:13.2 USB Controller: ATI Technologies Inc SB600 USB (OHCI2) 00:13.3 USB Controller: ATI Technologies Inc SB600 USB (OHCI3) 00:13.4 USB Controller: ATI Technologies Inc SB600 USB (OHCI4) 00:13.5 USB Controller: ATI Technologies Inc SB600 USB Controller (EHCI) 00:14.0 SMBus: ATI Technologies Inc SBx00 SMBus Controller (rev 14) 00:14.1 IDE interface: ATI Technologies Inc SB600 IDE 00:14.2 Audio device: ATI Technologies Inc SBx00 Azalia (Intel HDA) 00:14.3 ISA bridge: ATI Technologies Inc SB600 PCI to LPC Bridge 00:14.4 PCI bridge: ATI Technologies Inc SBx00 PCI to PCI Bridge 01:05.0 VGA compatible controller: ATI Technologies Inc Radeon Xpress 1250 03:01.0 CardBus bridge: Texas Instruments PCIxx12 Cardbus Controller 03:01.1 FireWire (IEEE 1394): Texas Instruments PCIxx12 OHCI Compliant IEEE 1394 Host Controller 03:01.3 SD Host controller: Texas Instruments PCIxx12 SDA Standard Compliant SD Host Controller 09:00.0 Ethernet controller: Broadcom Corporation NetXtreme BCM5756ME Gigabit Ethernet PCI Express 0b:00.0 Network controller: Broadcom Corporation BCM4321 802.11a/b/g/n (rev 03) I've tryied to install ati drivers 9.3 , which I downloaded and installed, unpacked and installed, builded and installed, but nothing worked. Looks like the latests version is just accepted to work on jaunty 9.04, so they are kind of old. what else I can do? thanks. Marc Information added: lsusb and lspci -n |grep 01:05.0 sysop@wl083517:~$ lspci -n |grep 01:05.0 01:05.0 0300: 1002:7942 sysop@wl083517:~$ lsusb Bus 006 Device 002: ID 413c:8138 Dell Computer Corp. Wireless 5520 Voda I Mobile Broadband (3G HSDPA) Minicard EAP-SIM Port Bus 006 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 005 Device 002: ID 413c:8140 Dell Computer Corp. Wireless 360 Bluetooth Bus 005 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 004 Device 002: ID 0483:2016 SGS Thomson Microelectronics Fingerprint Reader Bus 004 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 003 Device 002: ID 1b96:0001 N-Trig Duosense Transparent Electromagnetic Digitizer Bus 003 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 001 Device 002: ID 03f0:1807 Hewlett-Packard Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub sysop@wl083517:~$

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  • svchost.exe crash on wake up

    - by Serge
    Lately whenever I wake up my laptop from sleep I get a series of errors (generated by a host process failing) I haven't been able to figure out why this happens but I know which host process fails and was wondering if someone had some insight on why this keeps occuring 99% of the time when my laptop wakes up. here's the host process error Faulting application svchost.exe_SysMain, version 6.0.6001.18000, time stamp 0x47919291, faulting module ntdll.dll, version 6.0.6002.18005, time stamp 0x49e0421d, exception code 0xc0000006, fault offset 0x000000000005a02d, process id 0x1738, application start time 0x01cae656279b1010. and here are some services that fail because of that host The Windows Audio Endpoint Builder service terminated unexpectedly. It has done this 1 time(s). The following corrective action will be taken in 60000 milliseconds: Restart the service. The Wired AutoConfig service terminated unexpectedly. It has done this 1 time(s). The following corrective action will be taken in 0 milliseconds: Restart the service. The ReadyBoost service terminated unexpectedly. It has done this 2 time(s). The following corrective action will be taken in 60000 milliseconds: Restart the service. The Human Interface Device Access service terminated unexpectedly. It has done this 1 time(s). The following corrective action will be taken in 120000 milliseconds: Restart the service. The Network Connections service terminated unexpectedly. It has done this 2 time(s). The following corrective action will be taken in 100 milliseconds: Restart the service. The Program Compatibility Assistant Service service terminated unexpectedly. It has done this 2 time(s). The following corrective action will be taken in 60000 milliseconds: Restart the service. The Superfetch service terminated unexpectedly. It has done this 2 time(s). The following corrective action will be taken in 60000 milliseconds: Restart the service. Anyways I think you get the point, there are a few more. It got really annoying to wait for those services to restart so I created a batch file that does it automatically whenever the wlan stops I'm using Vista x64 on a Studio XPS 1640

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  • Customizing Fantacy Remote .INI file

    - by karthik
    I am using Fantacy Remote to remote view other machines. I have attached the default .INI file that Fantacy Remote uses. When i connect to a machine, the client user should not have mouse and keyboard access of the Remote machine. It should be a View only remote connection. And i want to make the Remote viewer screen to be in full screen mode, because i dont want the user to do anything with menubars of Fatancy remote. Because this is kiosk application. What should i change in configuration file [.ini] inorder to achieve the above ? Anyone who have used this software before, kindly help.. [APP] iVersion= 101 pcVersion=1.01a pcBuildDate=Mar 27 2009 [MAIN] iFirstSetup= 0 rcMain.rcLeft= 676 rcMain.rcTop= 378 rcMain.rcRight= 1004 rcMain.rcBottom= 672 iShowLog= 0 iMode= 1 [GENERAL] iTips= 1 iTrayAnimation= 1 iCheckColor= 1 iPriority= 1 iSsememcpy= 1 iAutoOpenRecv= 1 pcRecvPath=C:\Documents and Settings\karthikeyan\My Documents\Downloads\fremote101a\FantasyRemote101a\recv pcFileName=FantasyRemote iLanguage= 1 [SERVER] iAcceptVideo= 1 iAcceptAudio= 1 iAcceptInput= 1 iAutoAccept= 1 iAutoTray= 0 iConnectSound= 1 iEnablePassword= 0 pcPassword= pcPort=7902 [CLIENT] iAutoConnect= 0 pcPassword= pcDefaultPort=7902 [NETWORK] pcConnectAddr=192.168.1.1 pcPort=7902 [VIDEO] iEnable= 1 pcFcc=AMV3 pcFccServer= pcDiscription= pcDiscriptionServer= iFps= 30 iMouse= 2 iHalfsize= 0 iCapturblt= 0 iShared= 0 iSharedTime= 5 iVsync= 1 iCodecSendState= 1 iCompress= 2 pcPlugin= iPluginScan= 0 iPluginAspectW= 16 iPluginAspectH= 9 iPluginMouse= 1 iActiveClient= 0 iDesktop1= 1 iDesktop2= 2 iDesktop3= 0 iDesktop4= 3 iScan= 1 iFixW= 16 iFixH= 8 [AUDIO] iEnable= 1 iFps= 30 iVolume= 6 iRecDevice= 0 iPlayDevice= 0 pcSamplesPerSec=44100Hz pcChannels=2ch:Stereo pcBitsPerSample=16bit iRecBuffNum= 150 iPlayBuffNum= 4 [INPUT] iEnable= 1 iFps= 30 iMoe= 0 iAtlTab= 1 [MENU] iAlwaysOnTop= 0 iWindowMode= 0 iFrameSize= 4 iSnap= 1 [HOTKEY] iEnable= 1 key_IDM_HELP=0x00000070 mod_IDM_HELP=0x00000000 key_IDM_ALWAYSONTOP=0x00000071 mod_IDM_ALWAYSONTOP=0x00000000 key_IDM_CONNECT=0x00000072 mod_IDM_CONNECT=0x00000000 key_IDM_DISCONNECT=0x00000073 mod_IDM_DISCONNECT=0x00000000 key_IDM_CONFIG=0x00000000 mod_IDM_CONFIG=0x00000000 key_IDM_CODEC_SELECT=0x00000000 mod_IDM_CODEC_SELECT=0x00000000 key_IDM_CODEC_CONFIG=0x00000000 mod_IDM_CODEC_CONFIG=0x00000000 key_IDM_SIZE_50=0x00000074 mod_IDM_SIZE_50=0x00000000 key_IDM_SIZE_100=0x00000075 mod_IDM_SIZE_100=0x00000000 key_IDM_SIZE_200=0x00000076 mod_IDM_SIZE_200=0x00000000 key_IDM_SIZE_300=0x00000000 mod_IDM_SIZE_300=0x00000000 key_IDM_SIZE_400=0x00000000 mod_IDM_SIZE_400=0x00000000 key_IDM_CAPTUREWINDOW=0x00000077 mod_IDM_CAPTUREWINDOW=0x00000004 key_IDM_REGION=0x00000077 mod_IDM_REGION=0x00000000 key_IDM_DESKTOP1=0x00000078 mod_IDM_DESKTOP1=0x00000000 key_IDM_ACTIVE_MENU=0x00000079 mod_IDM_ACTIVE_MENU=0x00000000 key_IDM_PLUGIN=0x0000007A mod_IDM_PLUGIN=0x00000000 key_IDM_PLUGIN_SCAN=0x00000000 mod_IDM_PLUGIN_SCAN=0x00000000 key_IDM_DESKTOP2=0x00000078 mod_IDM_DESKTOP2=0x00000004 key_IDM_DESKTOP3=0x00000079 mod_IDM_DESKTOP3=0x00000004 key_IDM_DESKTOP4=0x0000007A mod_IDM_DESKTOP4=0x00000004 key_IDM_WINDOW_NORMAL=0x0000000D mod_IDM_WINDOW_NORMAL=0x00000004 key_IDM_WINDOW_NOFRAME=0x0000000D mod_IDM_WINDOW_NOFRAME=0x00000002 key_IDM_WINDOW_FULLSCREEN=0x0000000D mod_IDM_WINDOW_FULLSCREEN=0x00000001 key_IDM_MINIMIZE=0x00000000 mod_IDM_MINIMIZE=0x00000000 key_IDM_MAXIMIZE=0x00000000 mod_IDM_MAXIMIZE=0x00000000 key_IDM_REC_START=0x00000000 mod_IDM_REC_START=0x00000000 key_IDM_REC_STOP=0x00000000 mod_IDM_REC_STOP=0x00000000 key_IDM_SCREENSHOT=0x0000002C mod_IDM_SCREENSHOT=0x00000002 key_IDM_AUDIO_MUTE=0x00000073 mod_IDM_AUDIO_MUTE=0x00000004 key_IDM_AUDIO_VOLUME_DOWN=0x00000074 mod_IDM_AUDIO_VOLUME_DOWN=0x00000004 key_IDM_AUDIO_VOLUME_UP=0x00000075 mod_IDM_AUDIO_VOLUME_UP=0x00000004 key_IDM_CTRLALTDEL=0x00000023 mod_IDM_CTRLALTDEL=0x00000003 key_IDM_QUIT=0x00000000 mod_IDM_QUIT=0x00000000 key_IDM_MENU=0x0000007B mod_IDM_MENU=0x00000000 [OVERLAY] iIndicator= 1 iAlphaBlt= 1 iEnterHide= 0 pcFont=MS UI Gothic [AVI] iSound= 1 iFileSizeLimit= 100000 iPool= 4 iBuffSize= 32 iStartDiskSpaceCheck= 1 iStartDiskSpace= 1000 iRecDiskSpaceCheck= 1 iRecDiskSpace= 100 iCache= 0 iAutoOpen= 1 pcPath=C:\Documents and Settings\karthikeyan\My Documents\Downloads\fremote101a\FantasyRemote101a\avi [SCREENSHOT] iSound= 1 iAutoOpen= 1 pcPath=C:\Documents and Settings\karthikeyan\My Documents\Downloads\fremote101a\FantasyRemote101a\ss pcPlugin=BMP [CDLG_SERVER] mrcWnd.rcLeft= 667 mrcWnd.rcTop= 415 mrcWnd.rcRight= 1013 mrcWnd.rcBottom= 634 [CWND_CLIENT] miShowLog= 0 m_iOverlayLock= 0

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  • CPU Lockup when loading folder of bookmarks in Firefox

    - by Gary M. Mugford
    I am running Firefox 3.6 on WinXPSP3 on a duo Core machine with 4G of memory. I am also running Avast! free anti-virus and ZoneAlarm free firewall, both latest versions. Within the last month, my service provider basically forced me to upgrade to a Docsis 3.0 compliant modem (offered me a deal I couldn't turn down). At that point, I also upgraded to FF3.6. Basically, I am not unhappy with many aspects of this switchover, EXCEPT, when I now load a folder of bookmarks (anywhere from 10 to 38) I get nothing like the load times I experienced a couple of months back. It's taking minutes rather than seconds. And the first bookmark in one of the folders, GMail, rarely loads before timing out. I have used the old trick of powering off the cable modem before my day's work. This used to fix 'load-lag' in the old days. I have switched from my ISP's DNS server to Google, OpenDNS and back. And nothing seems to work currently. It's not my DNS cache. That's been flushed and secondary computers also have the same issue when loading folders. I have watched the CPU usage and loading the folder will send VSMon (ZoneAlarm) usage over 40 percent, AVastSvc (Avast!) over 30 and Firefox will then push the needle to 100. There's a brief burst by SVCHost when the others falter in devouring cycles. Then everything subsides to single digits once the last tab is loaded. The only other nominal nastiness is VSMon ALWAYS hitting 50 percent when ANY program starts downloading content from the internet. If I shutdown ZoneAlarm (and VSMon with it), the same slow loading takes place, but this time System is running 50% plus, again driving the usage to 100 per cent. I have my doubts FF3.6 vs FF3.5 is an issue, since the other computers are still running 3.5 and suffer the same issue. Those computers are on, but inactive, most of the time, being backups. Obviously, when the CPU hits 100, I can't do much of anything in FireFox OR in other programs. Video play through WMPC or VLC is extremely choppy, although it doesn't seem to affect the audio. Any ideas what I can try next? Thanks, GM

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  • CPU overheating after cleaning it

    - by Roberts
    I wanted to clean my computer CPU heatsink and fan itself, because the temperature is not what I wanted. About (50C ~ 70C). I have Intel Core 2 Duo E4300 @1.8 GHz (LGA775). The heatsink wasn't so scary filled with dust but I wanted to clean it anyway. I didn't know how to get heatsink with fan from the socket. So after 25 minutes I've figured it out. But I didn't know how to get it back on so I spent a lot time getting out the motherboard from the case. The fan and heatsink... The case and all components are clear of dust. (I'm tired now). Then I put all back just the way it was, well did few things on cable management. But the problem was that I didn't know how to connect front audio connectors. I had Windows XP hibernated. So I started the PC and everything was normal, except CMOS memory was clear. I configured the BIOS just the way it was and while I was doing that I saw about 58C CPU temperature and fan at 1789 RPM. Restarted the computer with new settings applied. But Windows halted with Blue Screen (I forgot what error it was but something with KERNEL). Restarted the PC and deleted hibernation session and everything was back normal. But couldn't record any sound from front panel microphone. The problem was that I messed ground wire with mic. Again after fixing it I turned computer on. No problems. The fan currently is noisy and temperature was 78C. The temperature before was 55C - 60C at idle. Now it's about 60C. If I do something then temperature raises to 79C. While speaking in skype the temperature was 82C. Could this problem occur because of the thermal grease (it's old and never replaced)? Edit The problem wasn't in thermal paste (because I didn't touch it). The problem was that I installed heatsink wrong. Now instead of regular 60C CPU temperature the CPU is at 48C (cool).

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  • Scoping a home dev server

    - by AbhikRK
    Hi. I’m looking to build a multi-purpose home development server. In this post, I’m looking to outline what I want from such a system, and the ‘why’s of it, to some limited extent, and finally, some rudiments of how I’m looking to go about that. I’m mostly a developer, with just about some sysadmin familiarity. So, please excuse, correct me, and suggest on any ignorance which would come across in the following ;-) It will serve the following goals to start with:- NAS (Looking at using ZFS) Source control repo e.g Git server Database e.g MySQL server Continuous Integration e.g Hudson server Other stuff as and when they come up e.g RabbitMQ etc A development sandbox to play around with new stuff I want to achieve a high uptime for 2-5 as much as possible. They should run as independent services and with minimal maintenance. (e.g TurnKey Linux appliances) I’m thinking of running them as individual Xen DomUs. Then, maybe the NAS can be a Dom0 and 6 can be another DomU. The User for this would be mostly me. I can see 2-4 being sometimes used by 2-3 users, but that would be infrequent. I’m looking for a repeatable setup. Ideally I’d like to automate this setup through Chef or Puppet or something similar. Once everything runs, I want to be able to ssh/screen/tmux into 1-6 from my laptop or any other computer on the LAN/on-the-go. My queries are:- Is putting 1-6, all of them on a single box, a good idea? If so, what kind of hardware should I be looking at, for a low-cost, low-power setup? Although not at present, but in future I might be looking at adding audio/media servers to the mix. Would that impact the answers to 1? I have an old Pentium 3 and 810e motherboard combination. Is there any way I could put it to use? I had a look at the Sheevaplug, and was wondering if I could split off the NAS on its own using that. But ruled it out preliminarily due to its reported heating issues. Is it something i should still consider? Thanks in advance

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  • Scoping a home dev server

    - by AbhikRK
    Hi. I’m looking to build a multi-purpose home development server. In this post, I’m looking to outline what I want from such a system, and the ‘why’s of it, to some limited extent, and finally, some rudiments of how I’m looking to go about that. I’m mostly a developer, with just about some sysadmin familiarity. So, please excuse, correct me, and suggest on any ignorance which would come across in the following ;-) It will serve the following goals to start with:- NAS (Looking at using ZFS) Source control repo e.g Git server Database e.g MySQL server Continuous Integration e.g Hudson server Other stuff as and when they come up e.g RabbitMQ etc A development sandbox to play around with new stuff I want to achieve a high uptime for 2-5 as much as possible. They should run as independent services and with minimal maintenance. (e.g TurnKey Linux appliances) I’m thinking of running them as individual Xen DomUs. Then, maybe the NAS can be a Dom0 and 6 can be another DomU. The User for this would be mostly me. I can see 2-4 being sometimes used by 2-3 users, but that would be infrequent. I’m looking for a repeatable setup. Ideally I’d like to automate this setup through Chef or Puppet or something similar. Once everything runs, I want to be able to ssh/screen/tmux into 1-6 from my laptop or any other computer on the LAN/on-the-go. My queries are:- Is putting 1-6, all of them on a single box, a good idea? If so, what kind of hardware should I be looking at, for a low-cost, low-power setup? Although not at present, but in future I might be looking at adding audio/media servers to the mix. Would that impact the answers to 1? I have an old Pentium 3 and 810e motherboard combination. Is there any way I could put it to use? I had a look at the Sheevaplug, and was wondering if I could split off the NAS on its own using that. But ruled it out preliminarily due to its reported heating issues. Is it something i should still consider? Thanks in advance Have posted this question previously on SuperUser but no responses yet. So was wondering if this is a more apt forum for this.

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  • Wiimote accelerometer input on Windows? (in 2013 - Glovepie alternative?)

    - by user568458
    There were a few options for getting accelerometer input into Windows using a Nintendo Wiimote. As of mid 2013, these projects seem to be dead, corrupted with malware, or both. Are there any tools out there that can do this that are still available (and not full of malware)? Quick roundup of the options that used to exist, or that still exist but aren't suitable: Glovepie, which used to be the most recommended option, appears to be dead: it's own website hacked, its creator's googlepages page full of strange stuff that sounds like hacker-humour about the end of the world... (I'd rather not link to them, very dubious stuff...), and lots of forum threads asking if it's a dead project with comments along the lines of "I heard that the author intends to return to it" dated 2011... Wiiuse seems to be dead: its sourceforge page simply says "Error.", its own website has turned into a squatter page. There apparently was an extension for Autohotkey that allowed Wiimote input, but I've seen warnings that this too is now full of malware (see final commentin above link) Everything else I can find about using Wiimotes as input on Windows - for example, Johnny Lee Cheng's work - seems to be exclusively about using infrared or sensor bar, or tied to a specific purpose (e.g. FPS gaming). My main interest is in the accelerometer, and buttons if possible (although something that supports the IR stuff too would be ideal). Is there anything that works for getting Wiimote accelerometer input into Windows that is reliable and not a malware-fest? If anyone's interested in "Why?", it's to use the Wiimote as an audio / midi controller: to use movement, pitch, roll etc to modulate lots of different sound variables at once with one hand. Wiimotes are great for this, and Glovepie used to be the standard way to make this work (e.g. see for example this tutorial, and this one, ignore the unrelated video; I've also seen musicians using wiimote/glovepie setups at gigs, creating some really unique sounds). As of 2013, however, Glovepie seems to be a dead and thoroughly hacked project, sadly. Is there anything else? With or without MotionPlus is fine (with would be better). If anyone knows of any worthy alternatives to Wiimotes in terms of price and quality that can be made to work with a PC, that would also be great: but in my research I coulnd't find any (here's a link to someone reaching the same conclusion). found some potentially relevant stuff here, not had time to test any of it yet though - http://stackoverflow.com/questions/2984450/using-accelerometer-in-wiimote-for-physics-practicals

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  • Win7 x64 unresponsive for a minute or so. HD failing?

    - by Gaia
    On a fully updated Win7 x64, every so often the system stalls for a minute or so. This has been going on for a couple months now. By stalling I mean the mouse responds and I can move windows around, but any window, any program, that is open becomes whiteish when I select it AND any new programs will not open. It doesn't matter what kind of program it is. When the stall stops all clicks I made (open new programs for example) take effect. Nothing shows up consistently (as in every time this happens) in the event log. Today though I was able to find something, but it doesn't reveal much other than the "system was unresponsive". It's a 7009 for "A timeout was reached (30000 milliseconds) while waiting for the Windows Error Reporting Service service to connect." It doesn't matter if I have any USB devices plug-in or not. I've ran Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes. While the machine is unresponsive, I've noticed that Drive D (the other partition on the single internal HD in this laptop) is displayed like this in explorer. This never occurs with Drive C or any other drive on the machine. . SMART report for the physical drive: Read benchmark by HD Tune 5 Pro, probably the most telling piece of the puzzle. Isn't this alone enough to see there is a problem with the drive, regardless of whether the unresponsiveness is caused by such purported problem? Here is a short hardware report: Computer: LENOVO ThinkPad T520 CPU: Intel Core i5-2520M (Sandy Bridge-MB SV, J1) 2500 MHz (25.00x100.0) @ 797 MHz (8.00x99.7) Motherboard: LENOVO 423946U Chipset: Intel QM67 (Cougar Point) [B3] Memory: 8192 MBytes @ 664 MHz, 9.0-9-9-24 - 4096 MB PC10600 DDR3 SDRAM - Samsung M471B5273CH0-CH9 - 4096 MB PC10600 DDR3 SDRAM - Patriot Memory (PDP Systems) PSD34G13332S Graphics: Intel Sandy Bridge-MB GT2+ - Integrated Graphics Controller [D2/J1/Q0] [Lenovo] Intel HD Graphics 3000 (Sandy Bridge GT2+), 3937912 KB Drive: ST320LT007, 312.6 GB, Serial ATA 3Gb/s Sound: Intel Cougar Point PCH - High Definition Audio Controller [B2] Network: Intel 82579LM (Lewisville) Gigabit Ethernet Controller Network: Intel Centrino Advanced-N 6205 AGN 2x2 HMC OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional (x64) Build 7601 The drive less than 1 year old. Do I have a defective drive? Seagate Tools diag says there is nothing wrong with the drive... UPDATE: I noticed that the windows error reporting service entered the running state then the stopped state and the space between the two events was exactly 2 minutes. Which error it was trying to report I don't know. I check the "Reliability Monitor" and it shows no errors to be reported. I've disabled the windows error reporting service to see if the problem stops.

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  • ffmpeg video4linux2 at specified resolution

    - by wim
    When I'm trying to record a clip from my webcam, using: ffmpeg -f video4linux2 -s 640x480 -i /dev/video0 /tmp/spam.avi I get annoying problem with very low resolution video, and there is a message from ffmpeg saying: [video4linux2,v4l2 @ 0x2bff3e0] The V4L2 driver changed the video from 800x600 to 176x144 I have tried not specifying -s, or trying other sizes like 800x600, and always it forces me back to 176x144. Why is this and how can I prevent it? My webcam is one of those Logitech 9000 Pro, I know it supports better resolutions than this and I can see with v4l2-ctl --list-formats-ext that it goes up to at least 800x600. edit: complete console output follows wim@wim-desktop:~$ ffmpeg -f video4linux2 -s 640x480 -i /dev/video0 /tmp/spam.avi ffmpeg version git-2012-11-20-70c0f13 Copyright (c) 2000-2012 the FFmpeg developers built on Nov 21 2012 00:09:36 with gcc 4.6 (Ubuntu/Linaro 4.6.3-1ubuntu5) configuration: --enable-gpl --enable-libfaac --enable-libfdk-aac --enable-libmp3lame --enable-libopencore-amrnb --enable-libopencore-amrwb --enable-librtmp --enable-libtheora --enable-libvorbis --enable-libvpx --enable-x11grab --enable-libx264 --enable-nonfree --enable-version3 libavutil 52. 8.100 / 52. 8.100 libavcodec 54. 73.100 / 54. 73.100 libavformat 54. 37.100 / 54. 37.100 libavdevice 54. 3.100 / 54. 3.100 libavfilter 3. 23.101 / 3. 23.101 libswscale 2. 1.102 / 2. 1.102 libswresample 0. 17.100 / 0. 17.100 libpostproc 52. 2.100 / 52. 2.100 [video4linux2,v4l2 @ 0x37a33e0] The V4L2 driver changed the video from 640x480 to 176x144 [video4linux2,v4l2 @ 0x37a33e0] Estimating duration from bitrate, this may be inaccurate Input #0, video4linux2,v4l2, from '/dev/video0': Duration: N/A, start: 37066.740548, bitrate: 6082 kb/s Stream #0:0: Video: rawvideo (YUY2 / 0x32595559), yuyv422, 176x144, 6082 kb/s, 15 tbr, 1000k tbn, 15 tbc File '/tmp/spam.avi' already exists. Overwrite ? [y/N] y Output #0, avi, to '/tmp/spam.avi': Metadata: ISFT : Lavf54.37.100 Stream #0:0: Video: mpeg4 (FMP4 / 0x34504D46), yuv420p, 176x144, q=2-31, 200 kb/s, 15 tbn, 15 tbc Stream mapping: Stream #0:0 -> #0:0 (rawvideo -> mpeg4) Press [q] to stop, [?] for help frame= 95 fps= 22 q=2.0 Lsize= 88kB time=00:00:13.86 bitrate= 51.8kbits/s video:77kB audio:0kB subtitle:0 global headers:0kB muxing overhead 13.553706%

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  • 404 Error on a file that exists?

    - by Abs
    Hello all, A script makes a GET request to my URL like so: http://mydomain.com/cgi-bin/uu_ini_status_audios.pl?tmp_sid=b742be1d131c4d32237a9f1fcdca659e&rnd_id=0.2363453360320319 However, I get a 404 returned straight away: The requested URL /cgi-bin/uu_ini_status_audios.pl was not found on this server. But that script exists on my server, I can see the file! It has the correct permissions (I gave it a 777 to be sure). It is also owned by my apache user and its in the group apache. What am I missing?? Thanks for any help on this! Update I thought it would have been a htaccess (rewrite) but I don't think it is anymore. I tried putting a index.php file in there and try to access it via my URL but I can't even do that! I tried this: http://mydoamin.com/cgi-bin/index.php - same 404 error! I get this in myerror log: [Tue Sep 14 14:42:49 2010] [error] [client xx.xxx.xx.xxx] script not found or unable to stat: /var/www/vhosts/mydomain.com/cgi-bin Access_log file: xx.xxx.xx.xxx - - [14/Sep/2010:14:48:25 +0200] "GET /cgi-bin/index.php HTTP/1.1" 404 475 "-" "Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 6.0; en-US; rv:1.9.2.9) Gecko/20100824 Firefox/3.6.9 (.NET CLR 3.5.30729)" Update 2 My htaccess file: <IfModule mod_rewrite.c> RewriteEngine On RewriteRule ^blog/ - [L] RewriteCond %{HTTP_HOST} ^www\.mydomain\.com$ [NC] RewriteRule ^(.*)$ http://mydomain.com/$1 [R=301,L] RewriteRule ^search/(.*)/(.*)/(.*)/(.*) /search.php?searchfor=$1&sortby=$2&page=$3&searchterm=$4 RewriteRule ^confirmemail/(.*) /confirmemail.php?code=$1 RewriteRule ^resetpassword/(.*) /resetpassword.php?code=$1 RewriteRule ^resendconfirmation/(.*) /resendconfirmation.php?userid=$1 RewriteRule ^categories/ /categories.php RewriteRule ^([-_~*a-zA-Z0-9]+)(\/)?$ /memberprofile.php?username=$1 RewriteRule ^browse/audios/(.*)/(.*)/(.*)/(.*) /audios.php?sortby=$1&filter=$2&page=$3&title=$4 RewriteRule ^browse/categories/audios/(.*)/(.*)/(.*)/(.*) /categoryaudios.php?sortby=$1&filter=$2&page=$3&title=$4 RewriteRule ^audios/(.*)/(.*) /playaudio.php?audioid=$1&title=$2 RewriteRule ^download/audio/(.*)/(.*) /downloadaudio.php?AUDIOID=$1&title=$2 RewriteRule ^members/audios/(.*)/(.*) /memberaudios.php?pid=$1&username=$2 RewriteRule ^syndicate/audios/(.*)/(.*) /syndicateaudios.php?filter=$1&title=$2 </IfModule> Update 3 [root@smydomain ~]# ls -la /var/www/vhosts/mydoamin.com/httpdocs/cgi-bin/ total 60 drwxr-xr-x 3 apache root 4096 Sep 14 14:37 . drwxr-x--- 20 som psaserv 4096 Sep 14 14:40 .. drwxr-xr-x 2 apache root 4096 Sep 7 03:01 configs -rwxrwxrwx 1 apache root 4 Sep 14 14:37 index.php -rwxrwxrwx 1 apache apache 6520 Sep 7 03:01 uu_ini_status_audios.pl -rwxr-xr-x 1 apache root 3215 Sep 7 03:01 uu_lib_audios.pl -rwxr-xr-x 1 apache root 30249 Sep 7 03:01 uu_upload_audios.pl

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  • Problems with Windows XP Plug and Play devices, maybe relating to MSVCR71.dll

    - by Richard
    I believe this question is unanswered as of now so I appologize if I've overlooked it. I have been having trouble some external devices with windows recently and I'm trying my darnedest to get to the bottom of it. At first, my Zero Tension USB mouse would stop working...as in the laser in the bottom of it would be on and would register movement, but the mouse on the screen wouldn't budge even an inch. At first this would happen randomly and then it would correct itself. As time went on, it became more and more frequent. At some point, the computer would make the "doo doo" sound of plugging or unplugging a USB device when the mouse stopped/started working. I dealt with it for a while and usually if I rebooted my machine, the mouse would work again for a day or two. As more time has gone on, the computer fully does not recognize the mouse AT ALL...I have another mouse that I use with the computer that works just fine and cannot seem to figure out why my Zero Tension mouse has failed. I tried plugging the Zero Tension mouse into my Mac and low and behold, it works without hesitation and never stops on me... Needless to say, I am stumped about this. I figured because I had another mouse I could deal with the loss of my fancy one for now...until my speakers stopped being recognized. I have a set of Logitec speakers that I have plugged into my sound card. Again, every now and again the audio devices would cease to be recognized by my computer, but a reboot would fix the problem. Now my speakers do not work at all with my computer and I feel like it's time to ask for help. My computer seems to be having a neural shutdown...where I can plug in devices and the computer doesn't seem to notice anything wrong, but none of the devices work. I hope this doesn't get any worse! Please help! Also, on a potentially (un)related note, when I start up my machine I get the message "This application has failed to start because Msvcp71.dll was not found. Re-installing the application may fix this problem." in reference to qbupdate.exe I don't know if that DLL being messed up has anything to do with my mouse or speakers, but I figure it might...anyway, thanks in advance for an answer and let me know if I need to clarify anything. Let me sum up: Zero Tension Mouse gradually stopped working Logitec Speakers gradually stopped working MSVCR71.dll seems to be messed up I don't know if any of those are related but any help would be much appreciated

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  • file corruption on read/write 2.6.32-22-server (happens across many kernels)

    - by Jonathan
    Hi Guys, I'm having an issue where after the server has been up for a period of time (~week/few days) the server will start reading corrupt data. For instance when I run a sha1sum of a file after a fresh boot it remains the same. However after a while I will start to get segfaults and from then on whenever I read this file I get a different sha1sum. I've checked S.M.A.R.T with long tests and I've run an extended memtest86+(12 passes) My lspci is as follows: 00:00.0 Host bridge: Advanced Micro Devices [AMD] RS780 Host Bridge 00:01.0 PCI bridge: Advanced Micro Devices [AMD] RS780 PCI to PCI bridge (int gfx) 00:06.0 PCI bridge: Advanced Micro Devices [AMD] RS780 PCI to PCI bridge (PCIE port 2) 00:07.0 PCI bridge: Advanced Micro Devices [AMD] RS780 PCI to PCI bridge (PCIE port 3) 00:11.0 SATA controller: ATI Technologies Inc SB700/SB800 SATA Controller [AHCI mode] 00:12.0 USB Controller: ATI Technologies Inc SB700/SB800 USB OHCI0 Controller 00:12.1 USB Controller: ATI Technologies Inc SB700 USB OHCI1 Controller 00:12.2 USB Controller: ATI Technologies Inc SB700/SB800 USB EHCI Controller 00:13.0 USB Controller: ATI Technologies Inc SB700/SB800 USB OHCI0 Controller 00:13.1 USB Controller: ATI Technologies Inc SB700 USB OHCI1 Controller 00:13.2 USB Controller: ATI Technologies Inc SB700/SB800 USB EHCI Controller 00:14.0 SMBus: ATI Technologies Inc SBx00 SMBus Controller (rev 3c) 00:14.1 IDE interface: ATI Technologies Inc SB700/SB800 IDE Controller 00:14.3 ISA bridge: ATI Technologies Inc SB700/SB800 LPC host controller 00:14.4 PCI bridge: ATI Technologies Inc SBx00 PCI to PCI Bridge 00:14.5 USB Controller: ATI Technologies Inc SB700/SB800 USB OHCI2 Controller 00:18.0 Host bridge: Advanced Micro Devices [AMD] K10 [Opteron, Athlon64, Sempron] HyperTransport Configuration 00:18.1 Host bridge: Advanced Micro Devices [AMD] K10 [Opteron, Athlon64, Sempron] Address Map 00:18.2 Host bridge: Advanced Micro Devices [AMD] K10 [Opteron, Athlon64, Sempron] DRAM Controller 00:18.3 Host bridge: Advanced Micro Devices [AMD] K10 [Opteron, Athlon64, Sempron] Miscellaneous Control 00:18.4 Host bridge: Advanced Micro Devices [AMD] K10 [Opteron, Athlon64, Sempron] Link Control 01:05.0 VGA compatible controller: ATI Technologies Inc Radeon HD 3300 Graphics 01:05.1 Audio device: ATI Technologies Inc RS780 Azalia controller 02:00.0 Ethernet controller: Atheros Communications Atheros AR8121/AR8113/AR8114 PCI-E Ethernet Controller (rev b0) 03:00.0 FireWire (IEEE 1394): VIA Technologies, Inc. Device 3403 I could really use some help on this, do you have any idea what could cause this? It's really frustrating me as it seems to trigger entirely randomly and will not go away until I reboot. I'm also use KVM for virtualization as well as MD for software RAID on this server and the processor is a Phenom II X4 965. I don't believe it's the software raid however as this affects files also hosted on non-raid partitions so I don't know.

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  • Why many applications close after opening a document or doing a specific actions?

    - by Mohsen Farjami
    I have some encrypted pdf files that have no problem and in my last windows, I could open them easily with Adobe Reader 9.2 and other pdf readers. But now, I can only open non-encrypted pdf files and one encrypted file with Adobe Reader. every time I open almost any encrypted pdf, it closes itself. Also, when I try to search a folder for a keyword with Foxit Reader, once it closed. This is not related to Adobe Reader, because I have the same problem with Word 2007. When I open a document, sometimes it closes instantly and sometimes it closes after a few seconds and sometimes it is stable. My windows is Fresh. I have installed it a few days ago. I have ESET Smart Security 5.2 and I have updated it today. OS: XP Pro SP3, RAM: 3 GB, CPU: 2 GHZ, HDD: 320 GB My installed applications: Adobe AIR Adobe Flash Player 11 ActiveX Adobe Flash Player 11 Plugin Adobe Photoshop CS4 Adobe Reader 9.2 Atheros Wireless LAN Client Adapter Babylon Bluetooth Stack for Windows by Toshiba CCleaner Conexant HD Audio Dell Touchpad ESET Smart Security Farsi (101) Custom Foxit Reader Framing Studio 3.27 Google Chrome Hard Disk Sentinel PRO HDAUDIO Soft Data Fax Modem with SmartCP Intel(R) Graphics Media Accelerator Driver IrfanView (remove only) Java(TM) 6 Update 18 K-Lite Mega Codec Pack 8.8.0 Microsoft .NET Framework 2.0 Service Pack 1 Microsoft .NET Framework 3.0 Service Pack 1 Microsoft .NET Framework 3.5 Microsoft Data Access Components KB870669 Microsoft Office 2007 Primary Interop Assemblies Microsoft Office Enterprise 2007 Microsoft User-Mode Driver Framework Feature Pack 1.0.0 (Pre-Release 5348) Mozilla Firefox 7.0.1 (x86 en-US) Notepad++ Office Tab FreeEdition 8.50 ParsQuran PerfectDisk 12 Professional Registry First Aid RICOH R5C83x/84x Flash Media Controller Driver Ver.3.54.06 Sahar Money Manager 2.5 Stickies 7.1d The KMPlayer (remove only) TurboLaunch 5.1.2 Unlocker 1.9.1 USB Safely Remove 4.2 Virastyar Visual Studio 2005 Tools for Office Second Edition Runtime Winamp Windows Internet Explorer 8 Windows Media Player 11.0.5358.4826 Windows XP Service Pack 3 WinRAR 4.11 (32-bit) WorkPause 1.2 Z Dictionary My startup applications: WorkPause USB Safely Remove TurboLaunch SunJavaUpdateSched Stickies rfagent Persistence ParsQuran Daily Verse ITSecMng IgfxTray HotKeysCmds Hard Disk Sentinel egui disable shift+delete CTFMON.EXE Bluetooth Manager Babylon Client Apoint AdobeCS4ServiceManager Adobe Reader Speed Launcher Adobe ARM What should I do to solve it? If you recommend installing Windows again, what guarantees that it won't happen again?

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  • How can I change how OS X's 'say' command pronounces a word?

    - by jwhitlock
    OS X's say command is useful for some tasks (such as Skype's 'notify me when a contact comes online), but it is pronouncing some names incorrectly. Is there a way to teach say to pronounce a word differently? For example, try: say "Hi, Joel Spolsky" The 'ol' sounds like 'ball' rather than 'old'. I'd like to add an exception that say "Pronounce Spolsky like this", rather than try to teach new linguistic rules. I bet there is a way since it can pronounce "iphone" as Apple wants. Update - After some research, here's what I've learned: Text-to-speech is split between turning the text to phonemes, and then the phonemes are turned into audio using a voice. Changing the voice doesn't effect the phonemes. The Speech Synthesis Manager has some functions for turning text to phonemes, and a method for registering a speech dictionary that will add new text-phoneme maps. However, Apple's speech dictionary must be in a binary form - I didn't find any plist XML. Using dtrace while running say, I found some interesting files opened in /System/Library/PrivateFrameworks/SpeechDictionary.framework/Resources. This is probably the speech dictionary, but they are all binary, except for Homophones, which is XML. Adding entries to Homophones does nothing - it is probably used in speech-to-text. They are also code signed by Apple - changing them may prevent some programs from working. PrefixDictionary CartNames CartLite SymbolDictionary Homophones There are ways to add text versions of application interface elements so VoiceOver works, a lot of which a developer gets for free, but there are tricky bits. The standard here appears to be to use a phonetic spelling as needed. My guesses are: say is a light layer of code on top of the Speech Synthesis Manager. It would be easy for the Apple devs to add a command line option to take the path to a speech dictionary plist for alternate phoneme mapping, but they didn't. It may be a useful open-source project to write a better say. Skype probably uses Speech Synthesis Manager directly, leaving no hooks to change the way my friend's names are pronounced, other than spelling them phonetically, which is silly. The easiest way to make a command line version of say is how JRobert suggested. Here's my quick implementation, using Doug Harris's spelling suggestion: #!/bin/sh echo $@ | tr '[A-Z]' '[a-z]' | sed "s/spolsky/spowlsky/g" | /usr/bin/say Finally, some fun command line stuff: # Apple is weird sqlite3 /System/Library/PrivateFrameworks/SpeechDictionary.framework/Resources/Tuples .dump # Get too much information about what files are being opened sudo dtrace -n 'syscall::open*:entry { printf("%s %s",execname,copyinstr(arg0)); }' # Just fun say -v bad "Joel Spolsky Spolsky Spolsky Spolsky Spolsky, Joel Spolsky Spolsky Spolsky Spolsky Spolsky" echo "scale=1000; 4*a(1)" | bc -l | say

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  • Computer freezes +/- 30 seconds, suspicion on SSD

    - by Robert vE
    My computer freezes for about 30 seconds, this happens occasionally. When it happens I can still move the mouse, sometimes even alternate between tabs in google chrome. If I try to open windows explorer nothing happens. Also chrome rapports "waiting for cache". It also happens in starcraft II, during which the sounds loops. I have made a Trace as this topic describes: How do I troubleshoot a Windows 7 freeze or slowness? Trace: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B_VkKdh535p6NklhSDdBLURUMnc I have looked at it, but I couldn't figure it out. My system specs are: AMD Athlon X4 651 Asus Ati HD6670 ADATA SSD sp900 Asus f1a55 mainboard 4 GB crucial 1333 ram 500 watt atx ps I'm running Windows 7, fully updated. Any help is much appreciated. Update: I tried something before your reply that may have helped the problem. I don't know for sure if it has, it's too soon to tell. A bit of history first. I had problems installing win7 on my ssd from the start. In IDE mode it worked, but I had the same problems as above. AHCI was a total fail, with it on before install as well as turning it on after install (including tweaking register). I didn't bother installing the AMD chipset/AHCI as it was reported to have no TRIM function and thus make problems worse. Eventually I did install the AMD SMbus driver as the stability issues were driving me crazy. It worked, no more issues, until I installed some extra drivers and software. Audio/LAN/ASUS suite, I don’t see the relation, but somehow it screwed up my system again. As a last effort I posted here on this site. After which the thought occurred to me turn on AHCI again as by now I had all necessary drivers installed anyway. (plus all windows updates downloaded/installed in the meantime) I did and stability didn’t seem great the first few reboots, but eventually everything seemed to work great. I tried to play starcraft II – an almost guaranteed freeze before – and I had no problems. I’m basically crossing my fingers and hope the problem is gone for good. I still think it has something to do with my SSD. In my research into the problem I noticed a lot of these issues with sandforce 2281 firmware, the exact same firmware I have. People reported the same problem that I had, freezes. Additionally they reported that during a freeze the hdd light stayed on, I noticed after I read this that this happened with my computer as well. None of this is conclusive evidence that my SSD is really to fault, but it is suspicious. And why turning on AHCI would fix it I don’t know. Thank you Tom for taking a look, if the problem returns I will certainly do what you advised.

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  • Vista stuck at "Shutting down..." screen. Any way to get verbose logging?

    - by CapBBeard
    Hi all, My home machine has been running fine for about 3 years, no problems at all. Within the last couple of weeks it's had real trouble trying to shut down. It'll get so far and then just sit there at the "Shutting down..." screen for hours. I've left it overnight, I've tried in safe mode, all to no avail. These days, I just wait for the disk activity to finish up and then hold the power button to turn it off. Feels dirty as, especially because there's a RAID involved! The hardware itself is in pretty good shape and of decent spec; Core 2 Quad, 4GB RAM, 1TB RAID 1+0, so it's not quite like a 7 year old PC coming to end of life! In the last month, hardware hasn't changed except for a new monitor. Admittedly I haven't tried unplugging the monitor but I've never heard of that preventing a shutdown. I might give it a whirl later I guess, as a last resort. I've uninstalled old apps, done updates, checked the event log, looked in device manager, uninstalled all non-present devices, disabled various non-critical devices (imaging, audio etc), unplugged peripherals, stopped non-essential services, unplugged the network, disabled the network adapter entirely, ran chkdsk, verified my RAID, the list goes on. But not a single lead. I'm pretty stumped. It could be hardware, but I have no other evidence to suggest so; when the PC is running, it runs fine. Temperatures are good, gaming is smooth as always, disk performance is fine. Event log even makes it look like the shutdown was completed (gets to the point where the event log service stops). In fact, the PC doesn't appear to realise that I cut the power to it. So my question is, does anyone know if there is a way I can get some verbose output (or a log) from shutdown to give me some idea of what is causing the issue? I'm guessing it's stuck unloading some app/driver but it would be good to get some specifics! Unless anyone has any other ideas? I suspect a reinstall would resolve the issue, however I'm looking to get a new PC built in the next month or so, and the reinstall is going to be quite a big job so I'd rather just wait until then if it comes to that. Would still be nice to get this sorted in the mean time though. Cheers!

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  • Spotlight Infinite Indexing issue (external data drive)

    - by Manca Weeks
    This is an external drive, formerly a boot drive which is now in use only to access music files (sibelius, audio, midi, live, logic etc.) without transferring the data into a new boot system, partly because of the issue I am about to describe, but mostly because the majority of the data is mainly there for archival purposes. The user is a composer and prominent musician and needs to be able to rehash the data at will. I have tried several things - here is a list: - make complete filesystem clone with antonio diaz's ddrescue - run Disk Warrior on copy, repair whatever errors occurred - wipe out all ACLs on entire drive - set all permissions to the same value - wide open 777 - remove any system data (applications, system files, including hidden files to the best of my knowledge) by selecting only non-system/app data and using Carbon Copy Cloner to put only the data of interest onto a newly formatted drive - transfer data to newly formatted drive folder by folder, resetting the spotlight index in between adding each to observe for issues (interesting here is that no issues occurred except for in Documents folder - when I transferred only the Documents folder to a newly formatted drive on its own - no trouble. It appears almost as thought it may not be the content but the quantity or specific combination of data that results in problems) - use DataRescue to transfer the data to yet another newly formatted drive to expose any missed hidden files Between each of the above steps I stopped Spotlight (search for anything beginning with md in Activity Monitor - All Processes and quitting it), deleted the .Spotlight-V100 directory from the affected drive. Restart Splotlight indexing by adding drive to Spotlight privacy list and removing it. In each case the same issue occurs - Spotlight begins indexing normally (or so it seems), then the index estimated time increases, usually to 4 hours remaining. This is where it gets stuck and continues to predict 4 hours remaining but never finishes. Sometimes I can't eject the drive and have to quit the md.. processes from Activity Monitor to be able to eject the drive without Force Eject. Once I disconnect the drive after the 4 hours remaining situation - if I reattach it, Spotlight forever estimates remaining time and never gets going again. So there it is. It is apparently not a filesystem issue, not a permissions issue and not tied to any particular piece of hardware or protocol (used USB and FW drives). I have tried this on several machines (3 to be precise) and in 10.5.8 and 10.6.5. Simply disabling Spotlight on this volume is not an option because the owner has no clue where things are as the data on the volume dates back to music projects and compositions from 2003 and before. He needs to be able to query for results. Anyone got any ideas? Thanks, M

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  • What are the most likely bottlenecks determining the performance of CamStudio screen recording?

    - by Steve314
    When doing screen recording, I can get a frame rate of maybe 15 frames per second for the full screen on my 1080p monitor using the XVID codec. I can increase the speed a bit by recording a region, changing screen modes, and tweaking other settings, but I'm curious what hardware upgrades might give me the biggest bang for my buck. My PC is budget, but modern... Athlon 2 X4 645 (3.1GHz, quad core, limited cache) processor. 4GB single channel DDR3 1066 RAM. ASRock motherboard with NVidia GeForce 7025/nForce 630a Chipset. ATI Radeon HD 5450 graphics card - 512MB on board, not configured to steal system RAM. I dual-boot Windows XP and Windows 7. For the moment, XP is my bigger performance concern as it's still my getting-things-done O/S as opposed to my browser-host O/S. My goal is to make a few programming-related tutorials. For a lot of that I don't need screen recording - I can make up some slides, record audio with the PC switched off, yada yada. When I do need screen recording, I'll mostly be recording Notepad++, Visual Studio or a command prompt. Occasionally, I may be recording some kind of graphics or diagram program and using my pre-Bamboo cheap Wacom tablet - I have the CS2 versions of Photoshop and Illustrator, but I'd much more likely be using Microsoft Paint. Basically, what I'll be recording won't be making huge demands on the machine - but recording a fair number of pixels (720p preferred) will be useful. What's particularly wierd - not so long ago I still had a five-year-old Pentium 4 based PC. And (with the same 1080p monitor) it could record at not far from the same frame rate. So clearly the performance issues are more subtle than just throw-money-at-it. My first guess would be that the main bottleneck is the bandwidth for transferring data to/from the graphics card. Is that likely to be correct? In support of that, see this [Radeon HD 5450 review][1] - the memory bandwidth is only 12.8 GB/s. If you can't get data out of graphics memory quickly, you can't transfer it back to the system memory quickly. Apparently, that's slower than some top-end cards in 2002.

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  • ffmpeg - join / merge on top of each other

    - by AisIceEyes
    I'm trying to join together two videos on top of each other. I already did these two ffmpeg commands ffmpeg -i 2_Out_of_Control.VOB -aspect 16:9 \ -vf "yadif=0:-1:0,crop=w=714:h=476:x=6:y=0,scale=1280:720,boxblur=lp=13" \ -c:v libx264 -preset medium \ -c:a copy \ '2(blurred)Out_of_Control.mp4' ffmpeg -i 2_Out_of_Control.VOB \ -vf "yadif=0:-1:0,crop=w=714:h=476:x=6:y=0,scale=1080:720" \ -c:v libx264 -preset medium \ -c:a copy \ '2(clear)Out_of_Control.mp4' I'm currently stuck on making the "clear" version on top of the "blurred" version. I'm not sure how to do that. Can anybody help please? Been googling for around 2 days already. Only achieved it by using OpenShot but yeah, would prefer if there is an ffmpeg command to merge the two videos on top of each other. Edit: I want the "clear" video to be at the center at the top of the "blurred" video Edit2: console output would be the same as above: ffmpeg -i 2(blurred)Out_of_Control.mp4 \ -i 2(clear)Out_of_Control.mp4 \ -aspect 16:9 \ -vf <just something that will join the two together: the blurred at the bottom, clear at top that is centered> \ -c:v libx264 -preset medium \ -c:a copy \ '2_Out_of_Control_VOB.mp4' Edit3: here is the output when I used ffmpeg -i 2_Out_of_Control.VOB $ ffmpeg -i 2_Out_of_Control.VOB ffmpeg version git-2013-10-03-c7fe2a3 Copyright (c) 2000-2013 the FFmpeg developers built on Oct 4 2013 05:22:06 with gcc 4.6 (Ubuntu/Linaro 4.6.3-1ubuntu5) configuration: --prefix=/home/username/ffmpeg_build --extra-cflags=-I/home/username/ffmpeg_build/include --extra-ldflags=-L/home/username/ffmpeg_build/lib --bindir=/home/username/bin --extra-libs=-ldl --enable-gpl --enable-libass --enable-libfdk-aac --enable-libmp3lame --enable-libopus --enable-libtheora --enable-libvorbis --enable-libvpx --enable-libx264 --enable-nonfree --enable-x11grab libavutil 52. 46.100 / 52. 46.100 libavcodec 55. 34.100 / 55. 34.100 libavformat 55. 19.100 / 55. 19.100 libavdevice 55. 3.100 / 55. 3.100 libavfilter 3. 88.101 / 3. 88.101 libswscale 2. 5.100 / 2. 5.100 libswresample 0. 17.103 / 0. 17.103 libpostproc 52. 3.100 / 52. 3.100 Input #0, mpeg, from '2_Out_of_Control.VOB': Duration: 00:05:00.01, start: 0.500000, bitrate: 4574 kb/s Stream #0:0[0x1e0]: Video: mpeg2video (Main), yuv420p(tv, smpte170m), 720x480 [SAR 8:9 DAR 4:3], max. 9334 kb/s, 29.97 fps, 29.97 tbr, 90k tbn, 59.94 tbc Stream #0:1[0x80]: Audio: ac3, 48000 Hz, stereo, fltp, 384 kb/s At least one output file must be specified $

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  • Zen and the Art of File and Folder Organization

    - by Mark Virtue
    Is your desk a paragon of neatness, or does it look like a paper-bomb has gone off? If you’ve been putting off getting organized because the task is too huge or daunting, or you don’t know where to start, we’ve got 40 tips to get you on the path to zen mastery of your filing system. For all those readers who would like to get their files and folders organized, or, if they’re already organized, better organized—we have compiled a complete guide to getting organized and staying organized, a comprehensive article that will hopefully cover every possible tip you could want. Signs that Your Computer is Poorly Organized If your computer is a mess, you’re probably already aware of it.  But just in case you’re not, here are some tell-tale signs: Your Desktop has over 40 icons on it “My Documents” contains over 300 files and 60 folders, including MP3s and digital photos You use the Windows’ built-in search facility whenever you need to find a file You can’t find programs in the out-of-control list of programs in your Start Menu You save all your Word documents in one folder, all your spreadsheets in a second folder, etc Any given file that you’re looking for may be in any one of four different sets of folders But before we start, here are some quick notes: We’re going to assume you know what files and folders are, and how to create, save, rename, copy and delete them The organization principles described in this article apply equally to all computer systems.  However, the screenshots here will reflect how things look on Windows (usually Windows 7).  We will also mention some useful features of Windows that can help you get organized. Everyone has their own favorite methodology of organizing and filing, and it’s all too easy to get into “My Way is Better than Your Way” arguments.  The reality is that there is no perfect way of getting things organized.  When I wrote this article, I tried to keep a generalist and objective viewpoint.  I consider myself to be unusually well organized (to the point of obsession, truth be told), and I’ve had 25 years experience in collecting and organizing files on computers.  So I’ve got a lot to say on the subject.  But the tips I have described here are only one way of doing it.  Hopefully some of these tips will work for you too, but please don’t read this as any sort of “right” way to do it. At the end of the article we’ll be asking you, the reader, for your own organization tips. Why Bother Organizing At All? For some, the answer to this question is self-evident. And yet, in this era of powerful desktop search software (the search capabilities built into the Windows Vista and Windows 7 Start Menus, and third-party programs like Google Desktop Search), the question does need to be asked, and answered. I have a friend who puts every file he ever creates, receives or downloads into his My Documents folder and doesn’t bother filing them into subfolders at all.  He relies on the search functionality built into his Windows operating system to help him find whatever he’s looking for.  And he always finds it.  He’s a Search Samurai.  For him, filing is a waste of valuable time that could be spent enjoying life! It’s tempting to follow suit.  On the face of it, why would anyone bother to take the time to organize their hard disk when such excellent search software is available?  Well, if all you ever want to do with the files you own is to locate and open them individually (for listening, editing, etc), then there’s no reason to ever bother doing one scrap of organization.  But consider these common tasks that are not achievable with desktop search software: Find files manually.  Often it’s not convenient, speedy or even possible to utilize your desktop search software to find what you want.  It doesn’t work 100% of the time, or you may not even have it installed.  Sometimes its just plain faster to go straight to the file you want, if you know it’s in a particular sub-folder, rather than trawling through hundreds of search results. Find groups of similar files (e.g. all your “work” files, all the photos of your Europe holiday in 2008, all your music videos, all the MP3s from Dark Side of the Moon, all your letters you wrote to your wife, all your tax returns).  Clever naming of the files will only get you so far.  Sometimes it’s the date the file was created that’s important, other times it’s the file format, and other times it’s the purpose of the file.  How do you name a collection of files so that they’re easy to isolate based on any of the above criteria?  Short answer, you can’t. Move files to a new computer.  It’s time to upgrade your computer.  How do you quickly grab all the files that are important to you?  Or you decide to have two computers now – one for home and one for work.  How do you quickly isolate only the work-related files to move them to the work computer? Synchronize files to other computers.  If you have more than one computer, and you need to mirror some of your files onto the other computer (e.g. your music collection), then you need a way to quickly determine which files are to be synced and which are not.  Surely you don’t want to synchronize everything? Choose which files to back up.  If your backup regime calls for multiple backups, or requires speedy backups, then you’ll need to be able to specify which files are to be backed up, and which are not.  This is not possible if they’re all in the same folder. Finally, if you’re simply someone who takes pleasure in being organized, tidy and ordered (me! me!), then you don’t even need a reason.  Being disorganized is simply unthinkable. Tips on Getting Organized Here we present our 40 best tips on how to get organized.  Or, if you’re already organized, to get better organized. Tip #1.  Choose Your Organization System Carefully The reason that most people are not organized is that it takes time.  And the first thing that takes time is deciding upon a system of organization.  This is always a matter of personal preference, and is not something that a geek on a website can tell you.  You should always choose your own system, based on how your own brain is organized (which makes the assumption that your brain is, in fact, organized). We can’t instruct you, but we can make suggestions: You may want to start off with a system based on the users of the computer.  i.e. “My Files”, “My Wife’s Files”, My Son’s Files”, etc.  Inside “My Files”, you might then break it down into “Personal” and “Business”.  You may then realize that there are overlaps.  For example, everyone may want to share access to the music library, or the photos from the school play.  So you may create another folder called “Family”, for the “common” files. You may decide that the highest-level breakdown of your files is based on the “source” of each file.  In other words, who created the files.  You could have “Files created by ME (business or personal)”, “Files created by people I know (family, friends, etc)”, and finally “Files created by the rest of the world (MP3 music files, downloaded or ripped movies or TV shows, software installation files, gorgeous desktop wallpaper images you’ve collected, etc).”  This system happens to be the one I use myself.  See below:  Mark is for files created by meVC is for files created by my company (Virtual Creations)Others is for files created by my friends and familyData is the rest of the worldAlso, Settings is where I store the configuration files and other program data files for my installed software (more on this in tip #34, below). Each folder will present its own particular set of requirements for further sub-organization.  For example, you may decide to organize your music collection into sub-folders based on the artist’s name, while your digital photos might get organized based on the date they were taken.  It can be different for every sub-folder! Another strategy would be based on “currentness”.  Files you have yet to open and look at live in one folder.  Ones that have been looked at but not yet filed live in another place.  Current, active projects live in yet another place.  All other files (your “archive”, if you like) would live in a fourth folder. (And of course, within that last folder you’d need to create a further sub-system based on one of the previous bullet points). Put some thought into this – changing it when it proves incomplete can be a big hassle!  Before you go to the trouble of implementing any system you come up with, examine a wide cross-section of the files you own and see if they will all be able to find a nice logical place to sit within your system. Tip #2.  When You Decide on Your System, Stick to It! There’s nothing more pointless than going to all the trouble of creating a system and filing all your files, and then whenever you create, receive or download a new file, you simply dump it onto your Desktop.  You need to be disciplined – forever!  Every new file you get, spend those extra few seconds to file it where it belongs!  Otherwise, in just a month or two, you’ll be worse off than before – half your files will be organized and half will be disorganized – and you won’t know which is which! Tip #3.  Choose the Root Folder of Your Structure Carefully Every data file (document, photo, music file, etc) that you create, own or is important to you, no matter where it came from, should be found within one single folder, and that one single folder should be located at the root of your C: drive (as a sub-folder of C:\).  In other words, do not base your folder structure in standard folders like “My Documents”.  If you do, then you’re leaving it up to the operating system engineers to decide what folder structure is best for you.  And every operating system has a different system!  In Windows 7 your files are found in C:\Users\YourName, whilst on Windows XP it was C:\Documents and Settings\YourName\My Documents.  In UNIX systems it’s often /home/YourName. These standard default folders tend to fill up with junk files and folders that are not at all important to you.  “My Documents” is the worst offender.  Every second piece of software you install, it seems, likes to create its own folder in the “My Documents” folder.  These folders usually don’t fit within your organizational structure, so don’t use them!  In fact, don’t even use the “My Documents” folder at all.  Allow it to fill up with junk, and then simply ignore it.  It sounds heretical, but: Don’t ever visit your “My Documents” folder!  Remove your icons/links to “My Documents” and replace them with links to the folders you created and you care about! Create your own file system from scratch!  Probably the best place to put it would be on your D: drive – if you have one.  This way, all your files live on one drive, while all the operating system and software component files live on the C: drive – simply and elegantly separated.  The benefits of that are profound.  Not only are there obvious organizational benefits (see tip #10, below), but when it comes to migrate your data to a new computer, you can (sometimes) simply unplug your D: drive and plug it in as the D: drive of your new computer (this implies that the D: drive is actually a separate physical disk, and not a partition on the same disk as C:).  You also get a slight speed improvement (again, only if your C: and D: drives are on separate physical disks). Warning:  From tip #12, below, you will see that it’s actually a good idea to have exactly the same file system structure – including the drive it’s filed on – on all of the computers you own.  So if you decide to use the D: drive as the storage system for your own files, make sure you are able to use the D: drive on all the computers you own.  If you can’t ensure that, then you can still use a clever geeky trick to store your files on the D: drive, but still access them all via the C: drive (see tip #17, below). If you only have one hard disk (C:), then create a dedicated folder that will contain all your files – something like C:\Files.  The name of the folder is not important, but make it a single, brief word. There are several reasons for this: When creating a backup regime, it’s easy to decide what files should be backed up – they’re all in the one folder! If you ever decide to trade in your computer for a new one, you know exactly which files to migrate You will always know where to begin a search for any file If you synchronize files with other computers, it makes your synchronization routines very simple.   It also causes all your shortcuts to continue to work on the other machines (more about this in tip #24, below). Once you’ve decided where your files should go, then put all your files in there – Everything!  Completely disregard the standard, default folders that are created for you by the operating system (“My Music”, “My Pictures”, etc).  In fact, you can actually relocate many of those folders into your own structure (more about that below, in tip #6). The more completely you get all your data files (documents, photos, music, etc) and all your configuration settings into that one folder, then the easier it will be to perform all of the above tasks. Once this has been done, and all your files live in one folder, all the other folders in C:\ can be thought of as “operating system” folders, and therefore of little day-to-day interest for us. Here’s a screenshot of a nicely organized C: drive, where all user files are located within the \Files folder:   Tip #4.  Use Sub-Folders This would be our simplest and most obvious tip.  It almost goes without saying.  Any organizational system you decide upon (see tip #1) will require that you create sub-folders for your files.  Get used to creating folders on a regular basis. Tip #5.  Don’t be Shy About Depth Create as many levels of sub-folders as you need.  Don’t be scared to do so.  Every time you notice an opportunity to group a set of related files into a sub-folder, do so.  Examples might include:  All the MP3s from one music CD, all the photos from one holiday, or all the documents from one client. It’s perfectly okay to put files into a folder called C:\Files\Me\From Others\Services\WestCo Bank\Statements\2009.  That’s only seven levels deep.  Ten levels is not uncommon.  Of course, it’s possible to take this too far.  If you notice yourself creating a sub-folder to hold only one file, then you’ve probably become a little over-zealous.  On the other hand, if you simply create a structure with only two levels (for example C:\Files\Work) then you really haven’t achieved any level of organization at all (unless you own only six files!).  Your “Work” folder will have become a dumping ground, just like your Desktop was, with most likely hundreds of files in it. Tip #6.  Move the Standard User Folders into Your Own Folder Structure Most operating systems, including Windows, create a set of standard folders for each of its users.  These folders then become the default location for files such as documents, music files, digital photos and downloaded Internet files.  In Windows 7, the full list is shown below: Some of these folders you may never use nor care about (for example, the Favorites folder, if you’re not using Internet Explorer as your browser).  Those ones you can leave where they are.  But you may be using some of the other folders to store files that are important to you.  Even if you’re not using them, Windows will still often treat them as the default storage location for many types of files.  When you go to save a standard file type, it can become annoying to be automatically prompted to save it in a folder that’s not part of your own file structure. But there’s a simple solution:  Move the folders you care about into your own folder structure!  If you do, then the next time you go to save a file of the corresponding type, Windows will prompt you to save it in the new, moved location. Moving the folders is easy.  Simply drag-and-drop them to the new location.  Here’s a screenshot of the default My Music folder being moved to my custom personal folder (Mark): Tip #7.  Name Files and Folders Intelligently This is another one that almost goes without saying, but we’ll say it anyway:  Do not allow files to be created that have meaningless names like Document1.doc, or folders called New Folder (2).  Take that extra 20 seconds and come up with a meaningful name for the file/folder – one that accurately divulges its contents without repeating the entire contents in the name. Tip #8.  Watch Out for Long Filenames Another way to tell if you have not yet created enough depth to your folder hierarchy is that your files often require really long names.  If you need to call a file Johnson Sales Figures March 2009.xls (which might happen to live in the same folder as Abercrombie Budget Report 2008.xls), then you might want to create some sub-folders so that the first file could be simply called March.xls, and living in the Clients\Johnson\Sales Figures\2009 folder. A well-placed file needs only a brief filename! Tip #9.  Use Shortcuts!  Everywhere! This is probably the single most useful and important tip we can offer.  A shortcut allows a file to be in two places at once. Why would you want that?  Well, the file and folder structure of every popular operating system on the market today is hierarchical.  This means that all objects (files and folders) always live within exactly one parent folder.  It’s a bit like a tree.  A tree has branches (folders) and leaves (files).  Each leaf, and each branch, is supported by exactly one parent branch, all the way back to the root of the tree (which, incidentally, is exactly why C:\ is called the “root folder” of the C: drive). That hard disks are structured this way may seem obvious and even necessary, but it’s only one way of organizing data.  There are others:  Relational databases, for example, organize structured data entirely differently.  The main limitation of hierarchical filing structures is that a file can only ever be in one branch of the tree – in only one folder – at a time.  Why is this a problem?  Well, there are two main reasons why this limitation is a problem for computer users: The “correct” place for a file, according to our organizational rationale, is very often a very inconvenient place for that file to be located.  Just because it’s correctly filed doesn’t mean it’s easy to get to.  Your file may be “correctly” buried six levels deep in your sub-folder structure, but you may need regular and speedy access to this file every day.  You could always move it to a more convenient location, but that would mean that you would need to re-file back to its “correct” location it every time you’d finished working on it.  Most unsatisfactory. A file may simply “belong” in two or more different locations within your file structure.  For example, say you’re an accountant and you have just completed the 2009 tax return for John Smith.  It might make sense to you to call this file 2009 Tax Return.doc and file it under Clients\John Smith.  But it may also be important to you to have the 2009 tax returns from all your clients together in the one place.  So you might also want to call the file John Smith.doc and file it under Tax Returns\2009.  The problem is, in a purely hierarchical filing system, you can’t put it in both places.  Grrrrr! Fortunately, Windows (and most other operating systems) offers a way for you to do exactly that:  It’s called a “shortcut” (also known as an “alias” on Macs and a “symbolic link” on UNIX systems).  Shortcuts allow a file to exist in one place, and an icon that represents the file to be created and put anywhere else you please.  In fact, you can create a dozen such icons and scatter them all over your hard disk.  Double-clicking on one of these icons/shortcuts opens up the original file, just as if you had double-clicked on the original file itself. Consider the following two icons: The one on the left is the actual Word document, while the one on the right is a shortcut that represents the Word document.  Double-clicking on either icon will open the same file.  There are two main visual differences between the icons: The shortcut will have a small arrow in the lower-left-hand corner (on Windows, anyway) The shortcut is allowed to have a name that does not include the file extension (the “.docx” part, in this case) You can delete the shortcut at any time without losing any actual data.  The original is still intact.  All you lose is the ability to get to that data from wherever the shortcut was. So why are shortcuts so great?  Because they allow us to easily overcome the main limitation of hierarchical file systems, and put a file in two (or more) places at the same time.  You will always have files that don’t play nice with your organizational rationale, and can’t be filed in only one place.  They demand to exist in two places.  Shortcuts allow this!  Furthermore, they allow you to collect your most often-opened files and folders together in one spot for convenient access.  The cool part is that the original files stay where they are, safe forever in their perfectly organized location. So your collection of most often-opened files can – and should – become a collection of shortcuts! If you’re still not convinced of the utility of shortcuts, consider the following well-known areas of a typical Windows computer: The Start Menu (and all the programs that live within it) The Quick Launch bar (or the Superbar in Windows 7) The “Favorite folders” area in the top-left corner of the Windows Explorer window (in Windows Vista or Windows 7) Your Internet Explorer Favorites or Firefox Bookmarks Each item in each of these areas is a shortcut!  Each of those areas exist for one purpose only:  For convenience – to provide you with a collection of the files and folders you access most often. It should be easy to see by now that shortcuts are designed for one single purpose:  To make accessing your files more convenient.  Each time you double-click on a shortcut, you are saved the hassle of locating the file (or folder, or program, or drive, or control panel icon) that it represents. Shortcuts allow us to invent a golden rule of file and folder organization: “Only ever have one copy of a file – never have two copies of the same file.  Use a shortcut instead” (this rule doesn’t apply to copies created for backup purposes, of course!) There are also lesser rules, like “don’t move a file into your work area – create a shortcut there instead”, and “any time you find yourself frustrated with how long it takes to locate a file, create a shortcut to it and place that shortcut in a convenient location.” So how to we create these massively useful shortcuts?  There are two main ways: “Copy” the original file or folder (click on it and type Ctrl-C, or right-click on it and select Copy):  Then right-click in an empty area of the destination folder (the place where you want the shortcut to go) and select Paste shortcut: Right-drag (drag with the right mouse button) the file from the source folder to the destination folder.  When you let go of the mouse button at the destination folder, a menu pops up: Select Create shortcuts here. Note that when shortcuts are created, they are often named something like Shortcut to Budget Detail.doc (windows XP) or Budget Detail – Shortcut.doc (Windows 7).   If you don’t like those extra words, you can easily rename the shortcuts after they’re created, or you can configure Windows to never insert the extra words in the first place (see our article on how to do this). And of course, you can create shortcuts to folders too, not just to files! Bottom line: Whenever you have a file that you’d like to access from somewhere else (whether it’s convenience you’re after, or because the file simply belongs in two places), create a shortcut to the original file in the new location. Tip #10.  Separate Application Files from Data Files Any digital organization guru will drum this rule into you.  Application files are the components of the software you’ve installed (e.g. Microsoft Word, Adobe Photoshop or Internet Explorer).  Data files are the files that you’ve created for yourself using that software (e.g. Word Documents, digital photos, emails or playlists). Software gets installed, uninstalled and upgraded all the time.  Hopefully you always have the original installation media (or downloaded set-up file) kept somewhere safe, and can thus reinstall your software at any time.  This means that the software component files are of little importance.  Whereas the files you have created with that software is, by definition, important.  It’s a good rule to always separate unimportant files from important files. So when your software prompts you to save a file you’ve just created, take a moment and check out where it’s suggesting that you save the file.  If it’s suggesting that you save the file into the same folder as the software itself, then definitely don’t follow that suggestion.  File it in your own folder!  In fact, see if you can find the program’s configuration option that determines where files are saved by default (if it has one), and change it. Tip #11.  Organize Files Based on Purpose, Not on File Type If you have, for example a folder called Work\Clients\Johnson, and within that folder you have two sub-folders, Word Documents and Spreadsheets (in other words, you’re separating “.doc” files from “.xls” files), then chances are that you’re not optimally organized.  It makes little sense to organize your files based on the program that created them.  Instead, create your sub-folders based on the purpose of the file.  For example, it would make more sense to create sub-folders called Correspondence and Financials.  It may well be that all the files in a given sub-folder are of the same file-type, but this should be more of a coincidence and less of a design feature of your organization system. Tip #12.  Maintain the Same Folder Structure on All Your Computers In other words, whatever organizational system you create, apply it to every computer that you can.  There are several benefits to this: There’s less to remember.  No matter where you are, you always know where to look for your files If you copy or synchronize files from one computer to another, then setting up the synchronization job becomes very simple Shortcuts can be copied or moved from one computer to another with ease (assuming the original files are also copied/moved).  There’s no need to find the target of the shortcut all over again on the second computer Ditto for linked files (e.g Word documents that link to data in a separate Excel file), playlists, and any files that reference the exact file locations of other files. This applies even to the drive that your files are stored on.  If your files are stored on C: on one computer, make sure they’re stored on C: on all your computers.  Otherwise all your shortcuts, playlists and linked files will stop working! Tip #13.  Create an “Inbox” Folder Create yourself a folder where you store all files that you’re currently working on, or that you haven’t gotten around to filing yet.  You can think of this folder as your “to-do” list.  You can call it “Inbox” (making it the same metaphor as your email system), or “Work”, or “To-Do”, or “Scratch”, or whatever name makes sense to you.  It doesn’t matter what you call it – just make sure you have one! Once you have finished working on a file, you then move it from the “Inbox” to its correct location within your organizational structure. You may want to use your Desktop as this “Inbox” folder.  Rightly or wrongly, most people do.  It’s not a bad place to put such files, but be careful:  If you do decide that your Desktop represents your “to-do” list, then make sure that no other files find their way there.  In other words, make sure that your “Inbox”, wherever it is, Desktop or otherwise, is kept free of junk – stray files that don’t belong there. So where should you put this folder, which, almost by definition, lives outside the structure of the rest of your filing system?  Well, first and foremost, it has to be somewhere handy.  This will be one of your most-visited folders, so convenience is key.  Putting it on the Desktop is a great option – especially if you don’t have any other folders on your Desktop:  the folder then becomes supremely easy to find in Windows Explorer: You would then create shortcuts to this folder in convenient spots all over your computer (“Favorite Links”, “Quick Launch”, etc). Tip #14.  Ensure You have Only One “Inbox” Folder Once you’ve created your “Inbox” folder, don’t use any other folder location as your “to-do list”.  Throw every incoming or created file into the Inbox folder as you create/receive it.  This keeps the rest of your computer pristine and free of randomly created or downloaded junk.  The last thing you want to be doing is checking multiple folders to see all your current tasks and projects.  Gather them all together into one folder. Here are some tips to help ensure you only have one Inbox: Set the default “save” location of all your programs to this folder. Set the default “download” location for your browser to this folder. If this folder is not your desktop (recommended) then also see if you can make a point of not putting “to-do” files on your desktop.  This keeps your desktop uncluttered and Zen-like: (the Inbox folder is in the bottom-right corner) Tip #15.  Be Vigilant about Clearing Your “Inbox” Folder This is one of the keys to staying organized.  If you let your “Inbox” overflow (i.e. allow there to be more than, say, 30 files or folders in there), then you’re probably going to start feeling like you’re overwhelmed:  You’re not keeping up with your to-do list.  Once your Inbox gets beyond a certain point (around 30 files, studies have shown), then you’ll simply start to avoid it.  You may continue to put files in there, but you’ll be scared to look at it, fearing the “out of control” feeling that all overworked, chaotic or just plain disorganized people regularly feel. So, here’s what you can do: Visit your Inbox/to-do folder regularly (at least five times per day). Scan the folder regularly for files that you have completed working on and are ready for filing.  File them immediately. Make it a source of pride to keep the number of files in this folder as small as possible.  If you value peace of mind, then make the emptiness of this folder one of your highest (computer) priorities If you know that a particular file has been in the folder for more than, say, six weeks, then admit that you’re not actually going to get around to processing it, and move it to its final resting place. Tip #16.  File Everything Immediately, and Use Shortcuts for Your Active Projects As soon as you create, receive or download a new file, store it away in its “correct” folder immediately.  Then, whenever you need to work on it (possibly straight away), create a shortcut to it in your “Inbox” (“to-do”) folder or your desktop.  That way, all your files are always in their “correct” locations, yet you still have immediate, convenient access to your current, active files.  When you finish working on a file, simply delete the shortcut. Ideally, your “Inbox” folder – and your Desktop – should contain no actual files or folders.  They should simply contain shortcuts. Tip #17.  Use Directory Symbolic Links (or Junctions) to Maintain One Unified Folder Structure Using this tip, we can get around a potential hiccup that we can run into when creating our organizational structure – the issue of having more than one drive on our computer (C:, D:, etc).  We might have files we need to store on the D: drive for space reasons, and yet want to base our organized folder structure on the C: drive (or vice-versa). Your chosen organizational structure may dictate that all your files must be accessed from the C: drive (for example, the root folder of all your files may be something like C:\Files).  And yet you may still have a D: drive and wish to take advantage of the hundreds of spare Gigabytes that it offers.  Did you know that it’s actually possible to store your files on the D: drive and yet access them as if they were on the C: drive?  And no, we’re not talking about shortcuts here (although the concept is very similar). By using the shell command mklink, you can essentially take a folder that lives on one drive and create an alias for it on a different drive (you can do lots more than that with mklink – for a full rundown on this programs capabilities, see our dedicated article).  These aliases are called directory symbolic links (and used to be known as junctions).  You can think of them as “virtual” folders.  They function exactly like regular folders, except they’re physically located somewhere else. For example, you may decide that your entire D: drive contains your complete organizational file structure, but that you need to reference all those files as if they were on the C: drive, under C:\Files.  If that was the case you could create C:\Files as a directory symbolic link – a link to D:, as follows: mklink /d c:\files d:\ Or it may be that the only files you wish to store on the D: drive are your movie collection.  You could locate all your movie files in the root of your D: drive, and then link it to C:\Files\Media\Movies, as follows: mklink /d c:\files\media\movies d:\ (Needless to say, you must run these commands from a command prompt – click the Start button, type cmd and press Enter) Tip #18. Customize Your Folder Icons This is not strictly speaking an organizational tip, but having unique icons for each folder does allow you to more quickly visually identify which folder is which, and thus saves you time when you’re finding files.  An example is below (from my folder that contains all files downloaded from the Internet): To learn how to change your folder icons, please refer to our dedicated article on the subject. Tip #19.  Tidy Your Start Menu The Windows Start Menu is usually one of the messiest parts of any Windows computer.  Every program you install seems to adopt a completely different approach to placing icons in this menu.  Some simply put a single program icon.  Others create a folder based on the name of the software.  And others create a folder based on the name of the software manufacturer.  It’s chaos, and can make it hard to find the software you want to run. Thankfully we can avoid this chaos with useful operating system features like Quick Launch, the Superbar or pinned start menu items. Even so, it would make a lot of sense to get into the guts of the Start Menu itself and give it a good once-over.  All you really need to decide is how you’re going to organize your applications.  A structure based on the purpose of the application is an obvious candidate.  Below is an example of one such structure: In this structure, Utilities means software whose job it is to keep the computer itself running smoothly (configuration tools, backup software, Zip programs, etc).  Applications refers to any productivity software that doesn’t fit under the headings Multimedia, Graphics, Internet, etc. In case you’re not aware, every icon in your Start Menu is a shortcut and can be manipulated like any other shortcut (copied, moved, deleted, etc). With the Windows Start Menu (all version of Windows), Microsoft has decided that there be two parallel folder structures to store your Start Menu shortcuts.  One for you (the logged-in user of the computer) and one for all users of the computer.  Having two parallel structures can often be redundant:  If you are the only user of the computer, then having two parallel structures is totally redundant.  Even if you have several users that regularly log into the computer, most of your installed software will need to be made available to all users, and should thus be moved out of the “just you” version of the Start Menu and into the “all users” area. To take control of your Start Menu, so you can start organizing it, you’ll need to know how to access the actual folders and shortcut files that make up the Start Menu (both versions of it).  To find these folders and files, click the Start button and then right-click on the All Programs text (Windows XP users should right-click on the Start button itself): The Open option refers to the “just you” version of the Start Menu, while the Open All Users option refers to the “all users” version.  Click on the one you want to organize. A Windows Explorer window then opens with your chosen version of the Start Menu selected.  From there it’s easy.  Double-click on the Programs folder and you’ll see all your folders and shortcuts.  Now you can delete/rename/move until it’s just the way you want it. Note:  When you’re reorganizing your Start Menu, you may want to have two Explorer windows open at the same time – one showing the “just you” version and one showing the “all users” version.  You can drag-and-drop between the windows. Tip #20.  Keep Your Start Menu Tidy Once you have a perfectly organized Start Menu, try to be a little vigilant about keeping it that way.  Every time you install a new piece of software, the icons that get created will almost certainly violate your organizational structure. So to keep your Start Menu pristine and organized, make sure you do the following whenever you install a new piece of software: Check whether the software was installed into the “just you” area of the Start Menu, or the “all users” area, and then move it to the correct area. Remove all the unnecessary icons (like the “Read me” icon, the “Help” icon (you can always open the help from within the software itself when it’s running), the “Uninstall” icon, the link(s)to the manufacturer’s website, etc) Rename the main icon(s) of the software to something brief that makes sense to you.  For example, you might like to rename Microsoft Office Word 2010 to simply Word Move the icon(s) into the correct folder based on your Start Menu organizational structure And don’t forget:  when you uninstall a piece of software, the software’s uninstall routine is no longer going to be able to remove the software’s icon from the Start Menu (because you moved and/or renamed it), so you’ll need to remove that icon manually. Tip #21.  Tidy C:\ The root of your C: drive (C:\) is a common dumping ground for files and folders – both by the users of your computer and by the software that you install on your computer.  It can become a mess. There’s almost no software these days that requires itself to be installed in C:\.  99% of the time it can and should be installed into C:\Program Files.  And as for your own files, well, it’s clear that they can (and almost always should) be stored somewhere else. In an ideal world, your C:\ folder should look like this (on Windows 7): Note that there are some system files and folders in C:\ that are usually and deliberately “hidden” (such as the Windows virtual memory file pagefile.sys, the boot loader file bootmgr, and the System Volume Information folder).  Hiding these files and folders is a good idea, as they need to stay where they are and are almost never needed to be opened or even seen by you, the user.  Hiding them prevents you from accidentally messing with them, and enhances your sense of order and well-being when you look at your C: drive folder. Tip #22.  Tidy Your Desktop The Desktop is probably the most abused part of a Windows computer (from an organization point of view).  It usually serves as a dumping ground for all incoming files, as well as holding icons to oft-used applications, plus some regularly opened files and folders.  It often ends up becoming an uncontrolled mess.  See if you can avoid this.  Here’s why… Application icons (Word, Internet Explorer, etc) are often found on the Desktop, but it’s unlikely that this is the optimum place for them.  The “Quick Launch” bar (or the Superbar in Windows 7) is always visible and so represents a perfect location to put your icons.  You’ll only be able to see the icons on your Desktop when all your programs are minimized.  It might be time to get your application icons off your desktop… You may have decided that the Inbox/To-do folder on your computer (see tip #13, above) should be your Desktop.  If so, then enough said.  Simply be vigilant about clearing it and preventing it from being polluted by junk files (see tip #15, above).  On the other hand, if your Desktop is not acting as your “Inbox” folder, then there’s no reason for it to have any data files or folders on it at all, except perhaps a couple of shortcuts to often-opened files and folders (either ongoing or current projects).  Everything else should be moved to your “Inbox” folder. In an ideal world, it might look like this: Tip #23.  Move Permanent Items on Your Desktop Away from the Top-Left Corner When files/folders are dragged onto your desktop in a Windows Explorer window, or when shortcuts are created on your Desktop from Internet Explorer, those icons are always placed in the top-left corner – or as close as they can get.  If you have other files, folders or shortcuts that you keep on the Desktop permanently, then it’s a good idea to separate these permanent icons from the transient ones, so that you can quickly identify which ones the transients are.  An easy way to do this is to move all your permanent icons to the right-hand side of your Desktop.  That should keep them separated from incoming items. Tip #24.  Synchronize If you have more than one computer, you’ll almost certainly want to share files between them.  If the computers are permanently attached to the same local network, then there’s no need to store multiple copies of any one file or folder – shortcuts will suffice.  However, if the computers are not always on the same network, then you will at some point need to copy files between them.  For files that need to permanently live on both computers, the ideal way to do this is to synchronize the files, as opposed to simply copying them. We only have room here to write a brief summary of synchronization, not a full article.  In short, there are several different types of synchronization: Where the contents of one folder are accessible anywhere, such as with Dropbox Where the contents of any number of folders are accessible anywhere, such as with Windows Live Mesh Where any files or folders from anywhere on your computer are synchronized with exactly one other computer, such as with the Windows “Briefcase”, Microsoft SyncToy, or (much more powerful, yet still free) SyncBack from 2BrightSparks.  This only works when both computers are on the same local network, at least temporarily. A great advantage of synchronization solutions is that once you’ve got it configured the way you want it, then the sync process happens automatically, every time.  Click a button (or schedule it to happen automatically) and all your files are automagically put where they’re supposed to be. If you maintain the same file and folder structure on both computers, then you can also sync files depend upon the correct location of other files, like shortcuts, playlists and office documents that link to other office documents, and the synchronized files still work on the other computer! Tip #25.  Hide Files You Never Need to See If you have your files well organized, you will often be able to tell if a file is out of place just by glancing at the contents of a folder (for example, it should be pretty obvious if you look in a folder that contains all the MP3s from one music CD and see a Word document in there).  This is a good thing – it allows you to determine if there are files out of place with a quick glance.  Yet sometimes there are files in a folder that seem out of place but actually need to be there, such as the “folder art” JPEGs in music folders, and various files in the root of the C: drive.  If such files never need to be opened by you, then a good idea is to simply hide them.  Then, the next time you glance at the folder, you won’t have to remember whether that file was supposed to be there or not, because you won’t see it at all! To hide a file, simply right-click on it and choose Properties: Then simply tick the Hidden tick-box:   Tip #26.  Keep Every Setup File These days most software is downloaded from the Internet.  Whenever you download a piece of software, keep it.  You’ll never know when you need to reinstall the software. Further, keep with it an Internet shortcut that links back to the website where you originally downloaded it, in case you ever need to check for updates. See tip #33 below for a full description of the excellence of organizing your setup files. Tip #27.  Try to Minimize the Number of Folders that Contain Both Files and Sub-folders Some of the folders in your organizational structure will contain only files.  Others will contain only sub-folders.  And you will also have some folders that contain both files and sub-folders.  You will notice slight improvements in how long it takes you to locate a file if you try to avoid this third type of folder.  It’s not always possible, of course – you’ll always have some of these folders, but see if you can avoid it. One way of doing this is to take all the leftover files that didn’t end up getting stored in a sub-folder and create a special “Miscellaneous” or “Other” folder for them. Tip #28.  Starting a Filename with an Underscore Brings it to the Top of a List Further to the previous tip, if you name that “Miscellaneous” or “Other” folder in such a way that its name begins with an underscore “_”, then it will appear at the top of the list of files/folders. The screenshot below is an example of this.  Each folder in the list contains a set of digital photos.  The folder at the top of the list, _Misc, contains random photos that didn’t deserve their own dedicated folder: Tip #29.  Clean Up those CD-ROMs and (shudder!) Floppy Disks Have you got a pile of CD-ROMs stacked on a shelf of your office?  Old photos, or files you archived off onto CD-ROM (or even worse, floppy disks!) because you didn’t have enough disk space at the time?  In the meantime have you upgraded your computer and now have 500 Gigabytes of space you don’t know what to do with?  If so, isn’t it time you tidied up that stack of disks and filed them into your gorgeous new folder structure? So what are you waiting for?  Bite the bullet, copy them all back onto your computer, file them in their appropriate folders, and then back the whole lot up onto a shiny new 1000Gig external hard drive! Useful Folders to Create This next section suggests some useful folders that you might want to create within your folder structure.  I’ve personally found them to be indispensable. The first three are all about convenience – handy folders to create and then put somewhere that you can always access instantly.  For each one, it’s not so important where the actual folder is located, but it’s very important where you put the shortcut(s) to the folder.  You might want to locate the shortcuts: On your Desktop In your “Quick Launch” area (or pinned to your Windows 7 Superbar) In your Windows Explorer “Favorite Links” area Tip #30.  Create an “Inbox” (“To-Do”) Folder This has already been mentioned in depth (see tip #13), but we wanted to reiterate its importance here.  This folder contains all the recently created, received or downloaded files that you have not yet had a chance to file away properly, and it also may contain files that you have yet to process.  In effect, it becomes a sort of “to-do list”.  It doesn’t have to be called “Inbox” – you can call it whatever you want. Tip #31.  Create a Folder where Your Current Projects are Collected Rather than going hunting for them all the time, or dumping them all on your desktop, create a special folder where you put links (or work folders) for each of the projects you’re currently working on. You can locate this folder in your “Inbox” folder, on your desktop, or anywhere at all – just so long as there’s a way of getting to it quickly, such as putting a link to it in Windows Explorer’s “Favorite Links” area: Tip #32.  Create a Folder for Files and Folders that You Regularly Open You will always have a few files that you open regularly, whether it be a spreadsheet of your current accounts, or a favorite playlist.  These are not necessarily “current projects”, rather they’re simply files that you always find yourself opening.  Typically such files would be located on your desktop (or even better, shortcuts to those files).  Why not collect all such shortcuts together and put them in their own special folder? As with the “Current Projects” folder (above), you would want to locate that folder somewhere convenient.  Below is an example of a folder called “Quick links”, with about seven files (shortcuts) in it, that is accessible through the Windows Quick Launch bar: See tip #37 below for a full explanation of the power of the Quick Launch bar. Tip #33.  Create a “Set-ups” Folder A typical computer has dozens of applications installed on it.  For each piece of software, there are often many different pieces of information you need to keep track of, including: The original installation setup file(s).  This can be anything from a simple 100Kb setup.exe file you downloaded from a website, all the way up to a 4Gig ISO file that you copied from a DVD-ROM that you purchased. The home page of the software manufacturer (in case you need to look up something on their support pages, their forum or their online help) The page containing the download link for your actual file (in case you need to re-download it, or download an upgraded version) The serial number Your proof-of-purchase documentation Any other template files, plug-ins, themes, etc that also need to get installed For each piece of software, it’s a great idea to gather all of these files together and put them in a single folder.  The folder can be the name of the software (plus possibly a very brief description of what it’s for – in case you can’t remember what the software does based in its name).  Then you would gather all of these folders together into one place, and call it something like “Software” or “Setups”. If you have enough of these folders (I have several hundred, being a geek, collected over 20 years), then you may want to further categorize them.  My own categorization structure is based on “platform” (operating system): The last seven folders each represents one platform/operating system, while _Operating Systems contains set-up files for installing the operating systems themselves.  _Hardware contains ROMs for hardware I own, such as routers. Within the Windows folder (above), you can see the beginnings of the vast library of software I’ve compiled over the years: An example of a typical application folder looks like this: Tip #34.  Have a “Settings” Folder We all know that our documents are important.  So are our photos and music files.  We save all of these files into folders, and then locate them afterwards and double-click on them to open them.  But there are many files that are important to us that can’t be saved into folders, and then searched for and double-clicked later on.  These files certainly contain important information that we need, but are often created internally by an application, and saved wherever that application feels is appropriate. A good example of this is the “PST” file that Outlook creates for us and uses to store all our emails, contacts, appointments and so forth.  Another example would be the collection of Bookmarks that Firefox stores on your behalf. And yet another example would be the customized settings and configuration files of our all our software.  Granted, most Windows programs store their configuration in the Registry, but there are still many programs that use configuration files to store their settings. Imagine if you lost all of the above files!  And yet, when people are backing up their computers, they typically only back up the files they know about – those that are stored in the “My Documents” folder, etc.  If they had a hard disk failure or their computer was lost or stolen, their backup files would not include some of the most vital files they owned.  Also, when migrating to a new computer, it’s vital to ensure that these files make the journey. It can be a very useful idea to create yourself a folder to store all your “settings” – files that are important to you but which you never actually search for by name and double-click on to open them.  Otherwise, next time you go to set up a new computer just the way you want it, you’ll need to spend hours recreating the configuration of your previous computer! So how to we get our important files into this folder?  Well, we have a few options: Some programs (such as Outlook and its PST files) allow you to place these files wherever you want.  If you delve into the program’s options, you will find a setting somewhere that controls the location of the important settings files (or “personal storage” – PST – when it comes to Outlook) Some programs do not allow you to change such locations in any easy way, but if you get into the Registry, you can sometimes find a registry key that refers to the location of the file(s).  Simply move the file into your Settings folder and adjust the registry key to refer to the new location. Some programs stubbornly refuse to allow their settings files to be placed anywhere other then where they stipulate.  When faced with programs like these, you have three choices:  (1) You can ignore those files, (2) You can copy the files into your Settings folder (let’s face it – settings don’t change very often), or (3) you can use synchronization software, such as the Windows Briefcase, to make synchronized copies of all your files in your Settings folder.  All you then have to do is to remember to run your sync software periodically (perhaps just before you run your backup software!). There are some other things you may decide to locate inside this new “Settings” folder: Exports of registry keys (from the many applications that store their configurations in the Registry).  This is useful for backup purposes or for migrating to a new computer Notes you’ve made about all the specific customizations you have made to a particular piece of software (so that you’ll know how to do it all again on your next computer) Shortcuts to webpages that detail how to tweak certain aspects of your operating system or applications so they are just the way you like them (such as how to remove the words “Shortcut to” from the beginning of newly created shortcuts).  In other words, you’d want to create shortcuts to half the pages on the How-To Geek website! Here’s an example of a “Settings” folder: Windows Features that Help with Organization This section details some of the features of Microsoft Windows that are a boon to anyone hoping to stay optimally organized. Tip #35.  Use the “Favorite Links” Area to Access Oft-Used Folders Once you’ve created your great new filing system, work out which folders you access most regularly, or which serve as great starting points for locating the rest of the files in your folder structure, and then put links to those folders in your “Favorite Links” area of the left-hand side of the Windows Explorer window (simply called “Favorites” in Windows 7):   Some ideas for folders you might want to add there include: Your “Inbox” folder (or whatever you’ve called it) – most important! The base of your filing structure (e.g. C:\Files) A folder containing shortcuts to often-accessed folders on other computers around the network (shown above as Network Folders) A folder containing shortcuts to your current projects (unless that folder is in your “Inbox” folder) Getting folders into this area is very simple – just locate the folder you’re interested in and drag it there! Tip #36.  Customize the Places Bar in the File/Open and File/Save Boxes Consider the screenshot below: The highlighted icons (collectively known as the “Places Bar”) can be customized to refer to any folder location you want, allowing instant access to any part of your organizational structure. Note:  These File/Open and File/Save boxes have been superseded by new versions that use the Windows Vista/Windows 7 “Favorite Links”, but the older versions (shown above) are still used by a surprisingly large number of applications. The easiest way to customize these icons is to use the Group Policy Editor, but not everyone has access to this program.  If you do, open it up and navigate to: User Configuration > Administrative Templates > Windows Components > Windows Explorer > Common Open File Dialog If you don’t have access to the Group Policy Editor, then you’ll need to get into the Registry.  Navigate to: HKEY_CURRENT_USER \ Software \ Microsoft  \ Windows \ CurrentVersion \ Policies \ comdlg32 \ Placesbar It should then be easy to make the desired changes.  Log off and log on again to allow the changes to take effect. Tip #37.  Use the Quick Launch Bar as a Application and File Launcher That Quick Launch bar (to the right of the Start button) is a lot more useful than people give it credit for.  Most people simply have half a dozen icons in it, and use it to start just those programs.  But it can actually be used to instantly access just about anything in your filing system: For complete instructions on how to set this up, visit our dedicated article on this topic. Tip #38.  Put a Shortcut to Windows Explorer into Your Quick Launch Bar This is only necessary in Windows Vista and Windows XP.  The Microsoft boffins finally got wise and added it to the Windows 7 Superbar by default. Windows Explorer – the program used for managing your files and folders – is one of the most useful programs in Windows.  Anyone who considers themselves serious about being organized needs instant access to this program at any time.  A great place to create a shortcut to this program is in the Windows XP and Windows Vista “Quick Launch” bar: To get it there, locate it in your Start Menu (usually under “Accessories”) and then right-drag it down into your Quick Launch bar (and create a copy). Tip #39.  Customize the Starting Folder for Your Windows 7 Explorer Superbar Icon If you’re on Windows 7, your Superbar will include a Windows Explorer icon.  Clicking on the icon will launch Windows Explorer (of course), and will start you off in your “Libraries” folder.  Libraries may be fine as a starting point, but if you have created yourself an “Inbox” folder, then it would probably make more sense to start off in this folder every time you launch Windows Explorer. To change this default/starting folder location, then first right-click the Explorer icon in the Superbar, and then right-click Properties:Then, in Target field of the Windows Explorer Properties box that appears, type %windir%\explorer.exe followed by the path of the folder you wish to start in.  For example: %windir%\explorer.exe C:\Files If that folder happened to be on the Desktop (and called, say, “Inbox”), then you would use the following cleverness: %windir%\explorer.exe shell:desktop\Inbox Then click OK and test it out. Tip #40.  Ummmmm…. No, that’s it.  I can’t think of another one.  That’s all of the tips I can come up with.  I only created this one because 40 is such a nice round number… Case Study – An Organized PC To finish off the article, I have included a few screenshots of my (main) computer (running Vista).  The aim here is twofold: To give you a sense of what it looks like when the above, sometimes abstract, tips are applied to a real-life computer, and To offer some ideas about folders and structure that you may want to steal to use on your own PC. Let’s start with the C: drive itself.  Very minimal.  All my files are contained within C:\Files.  I’ll confine the rest of the case study to this folder: That folder contains the following: Mark: My personal files VC: My business (Virtual Creations, Australia) Others contains files created by friends and family Data contains files from the rest of the world (can be thought of as “public” files, usually downloaded from the Net) Settings is described above in tip #34 The Data folder contains the following sub-folders: Audio:  Radio plays, audio books, podcasts, etc Development:  Programmer and developer resources, sample source code, etc (see below) Humour:  Jokes, funnies (those emails that we all receive) Movies:  Downloaded and ripped movies (all legal, of course!), their scripts, DVD covers, etc. Music:  (see below) Setups:  Installation files for software (explained in full in tip #33) System:  (see below) TV:  Downloaded TV shows Writings:  Books, instruction manuals, etc (see below) The Music folder contains the following sub-folders: Album covers:  JPEG scans Guitar tabs:  Text files of guitar sheet music Lists:  e.g. “Top 1000 songs of all time” Lyrics:  Text files MIDI:  Electronic music files MP3 (representing 99% of the Music folder):  MP3s, either ripped from CDs or downloaded, sorted by artist/album name Music Video:  Video clips Sheet Music:  usually PDFs The Data\Writings folder contains the following sub-folders: (all pretty self-explanatory) The Data\Development folder contains the following sub-folders: Again, all pretty self-explanatory (if you’re a geek) The Data\System folder contains the following sub-folders: These are usually themes, plug-ins and other downloadable program-specific resources. The Mark folder contains the following sub-folders: From Others:  Usually letters that other people (friends, family, etc) have written to me For Others:  Letters and other things I have created for other people Green Book:  None of your business Playlists:  M3U files that I have compiled of my favorite songs (plus one M3U playlist file for every album I own) Writing:  Fiction, philosophy and other musings of mine Mark Docs:  Shortcut to C:\Users\Mark Settings:  Shortcut to C:\Files\Settings\Mark The Others folder contains the following sub-folders: The VC (Virtual Creations, my business – I develop websites) folder contains the following sub-folders: And again, all of those are pretty self-explanatory. Conclusion These tips have saved my sanity and helped keep me a productive geek, but what about you? What tips and tricks do you have to keep your files organized?  Please share them with us in the comments.  Come on, don’t be shy… Similar Articles Productive Geek Tips Fix For When Windows Explorer in Vista Stops Showing File NamesWhy Did Windows Vista’s Music Folder Icon Turn Yellow?Print or Create a Text File List of the Contents in a Directory the Easy WayCustomize the Windows 7 or Vista Send To MenuAdd Copy To / Move To on Windows 7 or Vista Right-Click Menu TouchFreeze Alternative in AutoHotkey The Icy Undertow Desktop Windows Home Server – Backup to LAN The Clear & Clean Desktop Use This Bookmarklet to Easily Get Albums Use AutoHotkey to Assign a Hotkey to a Specific Window Latest Software Reviews Tinyhacker Random Tips Acronis Online Backup DVDFab 6 Revo Uninstaller Pro Registry Mechanic 9 for Windows Track Daily Goals With 42Goals Video Toolbox is a Superb Online Video Editor Fun with 47 charts and graphs Tomorrow is Mother’s Day Check the Average Speed of YouTube Videos You’ve Watched OutlookStatView Scans and Displays General Usage Statistics

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  • Ask How-To Geek: Learning the Office Ribbon, Booting to USB with an Old BIOS, and Snapping Windows

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    You’ve got questions and we’ve got answers. Today we highlight how to master the new Office interface, USB boot a computer with outdated BIOS, and snap windows to preset locations. Learning the New Office Ribbon Dear How-To Geek, I feel silly asking this (in light of how long the new Office interface has been out) but my company finally got around to upgrading from Windows XP and Office 2000 so the new interface it totally new to me. Can you recommend any resources for quickly learning the Office ribbon and the new changes? I feel completely lost after two decades of the old Office interface. Help! Sincerely, Where the Hell is Everything? Dear Where the Hell, We think most people were with you at some point in the last few years. “Where the hell is…” could possibly be the slogan for the new ribbon interface. You could browse through some of the dry tutorials online or even get a weighty book on the topic but the best way to learn something new is to get hands on. Ribbon Hero turns learning the new Office features and ribbon layout into a game. It’s no vigorous round of Team Fortress mind you, but it’s significantly more fun than reading a training document. Check out how to install and configure Ribbon Hero here. You’ll be teaching your coworkers new tricks in no time. Boot via USB with an Old BIOS Dear How-To Geek, I’m trying to repurpose some old computers by updating them with lightweight Linux distros but the BIOS on most of the machines is ancient and creaky. How ancient? It doesn’t even support booting from a USB device! I have a large flash drive that I’ve turned into a master installation tool for jobs like this but I can’t use it. The computers in question have USB ports; they just aren’t recognized during the boot process. What can I do? USB Bootin’ in Boise Dear USB Bootin’, It’s great you’re working to breathe life into old hardware! You’ve run into one of the limitations of older BIOSes, USB was around but nobody was thinking about booting off of it. Fortunately if you have a computer old enough to have that kind of BIOS it’s likely to also has a floppy drive or a CDROM drive. While you could make a bootable CDROM for your application we understand that you want to keep using the master USB installer you’ve made. In light of that we recommend PLoP Boot Manager. Think of it like a boot manager for your boot manager. Using it you can create a bootable floppy or CDROM that will enable USB booting of your master USB drive. Make a CD and a floppy version and you’ll have everything in your toolkit you need for future computer refurbishing projects. Read up on creating bootable media with PLoP Boot Manager here. Snapping Windows to Preset Coordinates Dear How-To Geek, Once upon a time I had a company laptop that came with a little utility that snapped windows to preset areas of the screen. This was long before the snap-to-side features in Windows 7. You could essentially configure your screen into a grid pattern of your choosing and then windows would neatly snap into those grids. I have no idea what it was called or if was anymore than a gimmick from the computer manufacturer, but I’d really like to have it on my new computer! Bend and Snap in San Francisco, Dear Bend and Snap, If we had to guess, we’d guess your company must have had a set of laptops from Acer as the program you’re describing sounds exactly like Acer GridVista. Fortunately for you the application was extremely popular and Acer released it independently of their hardware. If, by chance, you’ve since upgraded to a multiple monitor setup the app even supports multiple monitors—many of the configurations are handy for arranging IM windows and other auxiliary communication tools. Check out our guide to installing and configuring Acer GridVista here for more information. Have a question you want to put before the How-To Geek staff? Shoot us an email at [email protected] and then keep an eye out for a solution in the Ask How-To Geek column. Latest Features How-To Geek ETC How to Upgrade Windows 7 Easily (And Understand Whether You Should) The How-To Geek Guide to Audio Editing: Basic Noise Removal Install a Wii Game Loader for Easy Backups and Fast Load Times The Best of CES (Consumer Electronics Show) in 2011 The Worst of CES (Consumer Electronics Show) in 2011 HTG Projects: How to Create Your Own Custom Papercraft Toy Download the New Year in Japan Windows 7 Theme from Microsoft Once More Unto the Breach – Facebook Apps Can Now Access Your Address and Phone Number Dial Zero Speeds You Through Annoying Customer Service Menus Complete Dropquest 2011 and Receive Free Dropbox Storage Desktop Computer versus Laptop Wallpaper The Kids Have No Idea What Old Tech Is [Video]

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  • How to Play FLAC Files in Windows 7 Media Center & Player

    - by Mysticgeek
    An annoyance for music lovers who enjoy FLAC format, is there’s no native support for WMP or WMC. If you’re a music enthusiast who prefers FLAC format, we’ll look at adding support to Windows 7 Media Center and Player. For the following article we are using Windows 7 Home Premium 32-bit edition. Download and Install madFLAC v1.8 The first thing we need to do is download and install the madFLAC v1.8 decoder (link below). Just unzip the file and run install.bat… You’ll get a message that it has been successfully registered, click Ok. To verify everything is working, open up one of your FLAC files with WMP, and you’ll get the following message. Check the box Don’t ask me again for this extension and click Yes. Now Media Player should play the track you’ve chosen.   Delete Current Music Library But what if you want to add your entire collection of FLAC files to the Library? If you already have it set up as your default music player, unfortunately we need to remove the current library and delete the database. The best way to manage the music library in Windows 7 is via WMP 12. Since we don’t want to delete songs from the computer we need to Open WMP, press “Alt+T” and navigate to Tools \ Options \ Library.   Now uncheck the box Delete files from computer when deleted from library and click Ok. Now in your Library click “Ctrl + A” to highlight all of the songs in the Library, then hit the “Delete” key. If you have a lot of songs in your library (like on our system) you’ll see the following dialog box while it collects all of the information.   After all of the data is collected, make sure the radio button next to Delete from library only is marked and click Ok. Again you’ll see the Working progress window while the songs are deleted. Deleting Current Database Now we need to make sure we’re starting out fresh. Close out of Media Player, then we’ll basically follow the same directions The Geek pointed out for fixing the WMP Library. Click on Start and type in services.msc into the search box and hit Enter. Now scroll down and stop the service named Windows Media Player Network Sharing Service. Now, navigate to the following directory and the main file to delete CurrentDatabase_372.wmdb %USERPROFILE%\Local Settings\Application Data\Microsoft\Media Player\ Again, the main file to delete is CurrentDatabase_372.wmdb, though if you want, you can delete them all. If you’re uneasy about deleting these files, make sure to back them up first. Now after you restart WMP you can begin adding your FLAC files. For those of us with large collections, it’s extremely annoying to see WMP try to pick up all of your media by default. To delete the other directories go to Organize \ Manage Libraries then open the directories you want to remove. For example here we’re removing the default libraries it tries to check for music. Remove the directories you don’t want it to gather contents from in each of the categories. We removed all of the other collections and only added the FLAC music directory from our home server. SoftPointer Tag Support Plugin Even though we were able to get FLAC files to play in WMP and WMC at this point, there’s another utility from SoftPointer to add. It enables FLAC (and other file formats) to be picked up in the library much easier. It has a long name but is effective –M4a/FLAC/Ogg/Ape/Mpc Tag Support Plugin for Media Player and Media Center (link below). Just install it by accepting the defaults, and you’ll be glad you did. After installing it, and re-launching Media Player, give it some time to collect all of the data from your FLAC directory…it can take a while. In fact, if your collection is huge, just walk away and let it do its thing. If you try to use it right away, WMP slows down considerably while updating the library.   Once the library is setup you’ll be able to play your FLAC tunes in Windows 7 Media Center as well and Windows Media Player 12.   Album Art One caveat is that some of our albums didn’t show any cover art. But we were usually able to get it by right-clicking the album and selecting Find album info.   Then confirming the album information is correct…   Conclusion Although this seems like several steps to go through to play FLAC files in Windows 7 Media Center and Player, it seems to work really well after it’s set up. We haven’t tried this with a 64-bit machine, but the process should be similar, but you might want to make sure the codecs you use are 64-bit. We’re sure there are other methods out there that some of you use, and if so leave us a comment and tell us about it. Download madFlac V1.8  M4a/FLAC/Ogg/Ape/Mpc Tag Support Plugin for Media Player and Media Center from SoftPointer Similar Articles Productive Geek Tips How to Play .OGM Video Files in Windows VistaFixing When Windows Media Player Library Won’t Let You Add FilesUsing Netflix Watchnow in Windows Vista Media Center (Gmedia)Kantaris is a Unique Media Player Based on VLCEasily Change Audio File Formats with XRECODE TouchFreeze Alternative in AutoHotkey The Icy Undertow Desktop Windows Home Server – Backup to LAN The Clear & Clean Desktop Use This Bookmarklet to Easily Get Albums Use AutoHotkey to Assign a Hotkey to a Specific Window Latest Software Reviews Tinyhacker Random Tips Revo Uninstaller Pro Registry Mechanic 9 for Windows PC Tools Internet Security Suite 2010 PCmover Professional OutSync will Sync Photos of your Friends on Facebook and Outlook Windows 7 Easter Theme YoWindoW, a real time weather screensaver Optimize your computer the Microsoft way Stormpulse provides slick, real time weather data Geek Parents – Did you try Parental Controls in Windows 7?

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