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  • SMPS stops when I plug in a SATA drive?

    - by claws
    Hello, Part 1: my first question is all the 4 wire power connectors (intended for hardisks/dvd drives not mother board) are same. Right? I've been using all of them same and I had no problem for years. Yesterday I borrowed a SATA disk from my friend and connected it my computer using Sata Power adaptor (4 wire) and when I switched on the computer. There were fumes coming out of the connector. I immediately turned it off (in just one second). I tested the voltages in the 4 wire power connector of my SMPS: They were 5.3v & 12.2V. I couldn't measure the current. But my SMPTS label reads: DC Output: 3.3v (25A) +5v (32A) -5v (0.3A) +12V (17A) -12V (0.8A) And the SATA hardisk label reads Input: +5v (0.72A) +12V (0.52A) I'm shocked! I never noticed this. Does the "sata power adaptor" scale down the current to required? If it doesn't, I've been connecting same way for years. I never had any problem. This is the first time I'm encountering it. Part 2: I wanted to return the drive to my friend. He has two hard disks, SATA & PATA. Its the SATA that I borrowed. When he usually switches on. The CPU fan starts & then stops for a sec and starts again and continues working. That was the earlier situation. I don't know why it stops & starts? Well, Now when I connect this SATA disk and switch ON the computer. CPU fan starts (just for an instant, not even a 0.5 sec) and stops. It doesn't start again, I mean the power from SMPS has stopped. But if I disconnect this SATA disk. It works fine. What seems to be the problem? I've no idea about why there were fumes or why his SMPS starts & stops giving power? What is its relation with the SATA disk connection?

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  • Computer loses all installed programs and appears to return OS-only state

    - by Jake
    This is a story regarding 3 laptops of different brand and models. On separate occassions, I configured each of these Windows 7 / Vista computers with the necessary configuration and applications (which are supposedly the same actually), e.g. join office domain, same windows updates, microft office etc. These machinese were configure in our office in Singapore, and then they were taken to India for use. Someday in India, when booting up the laptop, all went fine except when it reach the log in screen, it was no longer possible to login with domain credentials. Logging into the laptop local admin account will lead to discover that the machine has returned to "OS-only state". All the configurations and applications were gone. The actual user profiles are still in the C: drive so files can still be retrieved, but under Control Panel Uninstall Programs it is evident that at least the registry is corrupted. The above scenario happen to the first 2 laptops. For the third, the system reports "Operating System Not Found" on boot up. I cannot think of any reason except to suspect a power fluctuation issue. Question is, will a power issue create this behaviour? What else can cause this issue?

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  • PSU requirement question for my PC setup.

    - by user69474
    I understand that sometimes there may be a situation where the PSU is way more than required but in this case of mine, I'm not too sure. Sometimes when I play games, my computer will crash and restarts itself, 10 mins into the game. Once I received a message that says something like the power is overheating or something like that. Ok, so I have a 500W PSU. I have: 1x Internal DVD writer 1x SATA 250GB HD 1x Nvidia 8500 GT 2GB RAM. As I'm planning to get an additional 250GB SATA HD, I wonder if I need to increase my PSU as well -- in full knowledge of the previous crashes experienced before. Should I upgrade my PSU to 650W perhaps, or is that excessive?

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  • Windows 7 remains powered on when restarting

    - by BombDefused
    I'm running windows 7 x64 on an MSI P67A-GD53 motherboard, in an Antec P280 Super Midi Towercase with a Corsair 650w PSU. I've just installed a second instance of windows 7 x64 on a separate disk (this is to keep my games separate from my work OS). The problem is that it appears now that I cannot restart from either instance of Windows 7. The shut down command, and sleep commands work as expected. When I try to restart, the shutdown happens but the system never reboots. Everything remains powered on, until I hold down the power button to force the power off. Ithink (but am not 100% sure) this has only started since I installed the second OS, and am assuming this has something to do with the motherboard needing to know which OS to run up again? Some other forums I've read suggest that the PSU has a major role in restart and could be at fault. Changing the boot order of the disks in the BIOS does not change anything. Any suggestions greatfully recieved! Update: I now have a reproduceable issue: I think the secondary OS install may have been a red herring. It was when windows tried to reboot during the install that I noticed the issue. After playing around with installing drivers, and rebooting many many times, I have found that it is the OC genie setting on the MSI motherboard that seems to trigger the problem. This makes sense as I only started using the OC genie feature a couple of weeks ago, and probably hadn't used restart in that time. However... simply turning off OC genie does not make the issue go away. I have to turn off OC genie, shutdown, start enter bios, go to the "Save and Exit" menu "Restore Defaults" yes to "Load optimized defaults", which will reset to clear the problem. Now when the PC boots into windows, I can restart as normal (and from the OS on either HDD). I only know how to control the issue, and don't still know the root cause. I'd like to be able to use the OC genie function if anyone can suggest a why I'm seeing this problem. Could it be that I'm drawing too much power when using OC feature?

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  • What is the best position for power unit?

    - by guest86
    I would like to buy new computer case. Last time I bought a computer was in 2008 and many things have changed up to day. Many new computer cases have power unit placed down, on bottom. I'm thinking about buying some of those cases, but i'm not sure about something - if power unit is placed on the bottom it can't take away hot air from the case and pump it out right? All my PC parts are silent - CPU (E8200, placed below 12cm Nochtua fan of power unit) has heat-pipe cooler with Nochtua fan spinning at only 800rpms, GPU has cooler powered by 7V instead 12 and that's why i don't want to HAVE TO place another fan to pump out hot air instead of PU placed on top. That might make some noise. So i ask someone more experienced: if i buy some computer case with PU placed down, do i HAVE TO place some fan to pump out hot air?

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  • PSU Suggestions for SLI EVGA GTX 680 + i7

    - by JMH
    So i am putting together a new machine and am trying to determine the best PSU to go with for this setup. Here is the build i am thinking about Processor Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz Motherboard ASRock Z77 Professional Graphics Card (2 SLI) EVGA 02G-P4-2680-KR Sound Card HT | OMEGA eClaro 7.1 Fan/Heat Sync ZALMAN CNPS9500A-LED Case COOLER MASTER HAF X RC-942-KKN1 RAM G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) SSD Of some Sort So my guess is that i need a 750 -1000W PSU, but which brand.... how much, etc --- really in the woods. Thanks -Josh

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  • Why would only the cpu fan not spin and no video displayed?

    - by Patrick
    I just built a new computer and when I first powered it on I got a continuous beeping which according to the manual means a power failure. After moving the voltage switch to the left a little I was able to get the beeping to stop. Even after the stopping though the CPU fan doesn't spin, and there is no display on the monitor. All the other fans and lights come on in the computer though, the DVD drive is working and ejects the tray, and the hard drive sounds like it spins up. Has anyone seen this before and know what is wrong or what has failed?

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  • Computer won't power on

    - by briskmojo
    Was working fine for over a year, now won't boot. LEDs on the GFX card and one on the MOBO labeled PWR glow when plugged in, but nothing happens when I push power and shorting switch pins does nothing either. If I pop out the CMOS battery and put it back in then try the fans lurch but nothing happens. Shorting the 15 and 16 pins turns the PSU on, and when the 24pin connector is attached to the MOBO it will start up briefly then stop. If I plug in the CPU header it returns to what I described, no power but will lurch after replacing the CMOS battery. Should I be shopping for a new PSU or is there another problem maybe?

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  • PC case and PSU screw question....

    - by user32569
    Hi, I have maybe a funny one to ask.... To this Christmass I bought new PC. When I started to asseble it, I found that my case (Artic Cooling Silentium T11) has 12 screws for HDD, DVD etc, and 6 screws for the expansion cards. Well, first thing that surprised me was, why only 6 screws for expansion card, when case has actually 7 slots. And second, what are PSU screws supposed to some with? The PSU, Case or nothing? Becouse neighter PSU or Case had them. PSU is Evolve Storm 600W. Well, I know case and PSU are not some high end devices, but still, would it hurt them to add 1 screw for expansion cards and 4 for PSU? So, my question is, is this situation normall, or which one (Case or PSU) does normally screws come with? Thanks.

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  • How to calculate power/energy taken by computer and screen

    - by r0ca
    I need to investigate how much power my linux machine uses per week. I can take a look at the PSU but I would like to know how to calculate the average use of power it takes. I also need to know how much power a CRT screen use per week. Do I need to check the PSU Watt unit and Screen Watt usage and just add both to have the results? P.S. My english is not good, sorry about that! P.P.S. My question is not related to: http://superuser.com/questions/9946/how-to-choose-a-ups-calculate-power-for-a-new-pc

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  • Temporary boot problem after thunder storm - likely causes?

    - by alastairs
    The village where I live was sat under a thunder cloud for most of Friday, and we suffered a few power fluctuations (specifically, what seemed to be split-second outages). When I got back home from work, I found that my PCs had shut down during one of these outages. When I went to boot one of them back up, I couldn't get anything to display on screen, nor did the boot seem to complete correctly. I tried a number of things - unplugging different bits of hardware, swapping graphics adaptors, etc. - to no avail. I thought I was looking at a fried motherboard or CPU. Power seemed to be distributed correctly to the peripherals (the drives all appeared to be working) so I figured it couldn't be the PSU. Eventually I unplugged it from the mains and left it overnight (approx 12hrs unplugged). I tried it again this morning, and it booted up correctly. Woo-hoo! I have all my equipment protected by surge-protected power strips, so I don't think a spike caused these problems. Obviously it has something to do with the power fluctuations, and maybe the PSU in the problem machine got itself confused somehow. The questions are, for future reference and to help people with similar problems: What are the likely causes of the boot failure I experienced? Is a UPS a simple and cost-effective solution, or might other things help prevent this happening in future? What UPS can you recommend (my budget is limited)?

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  • Connect a 2.5" (laptop hard disk) SATA hard disk to Desktop PC

    - by Lawliet
    Can I connect a laptop SATA hard disk to Desktop PC? Do I have to use some adapters or I can just plug in SATA power connector and SATA data cable like my Desktop hard disk is connected? I noticed that both laptop and desktop SATA disks use same connectors, but I'm afraid that I might fry my laptop hard disk because the SATA connector has both 12V and 5V voltage (given the fact that laptop hard disks has input voltage of 5V) I bought a all-in-one Modex-to-SATA power adapter and SATA cable and I still don't know what to do. I have read various forums and a lot of people are stating that it's perfectly ok, but some are scaring me that by connecting it so, it fried their hard disk. And some also mentioned cutting the yellow 12V wire if I'm planning to use Modex-to-SATA power. Thanks in advance

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  • Connect a 2.5" (laptop hard disk) SATA hard disk to Desktop PC

    - by Lawliet
    Can I connect a laptop SATA hard disk to Desktop PC? Do I have to use some adapters or I can just plug in SATA power connector and SATA data cable like my Desktop hard disk is connected? I noticed that both laptop and desktop SATA disks use same connectors, but I'm afraid that I might fry my laptop hard disk because the SATA connector has both 12V and 5V voltage (given the fact that laptop hard disks has input voltage of 5V) I bought a all-in-one Modex-to-SATA power adapter and SATA cable and I still don't know what to do. I have read various forums and a lot of people are stating that it's perfectly ok, but some are scaring me that by connecting it so, it fried their hard disk. And some also mentioned cutting the yellow 12V wire if I'm planning to use Modex-to-SATA power. Thanks in advance

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  • Is it possible (and safe/reliable/non-damaging) to use a 20-pin ATX PSU with a 24-pin ATX motherboar

    - by Legooolas
    I have a reasonably-decent old 20-pin PSU which I want to use on a newer 24-pin ATX motherboard. I see that the ATX page on wikipedia mentions that 24-pin ATX is backward-compatible, and I can find 20-to-24 pin adapters to buy for a couple of dollars/pounds at lots of places, but I can't find any mention of restrictions on the use of these. Will this work on any motherboard, or is it a per-motherboard compatibility question? Are there any other restrictions like the level of power available (and hence the additional 4 pins with +12, +5 and +3.3V lines which are already on other pins)?

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  • Can unexpected power loss harm a Linux install?

    - by Johan Elmander
    I am developing an application on a Linux embedded board (runs Debian) e.g. Raspberry Pi, Beagle Board/Bone, or olimex. The boards works on an environment that the electricity is cut unexpectedly (it is far complicated to place PSU, etc.) and it would happen every day couple times. I wonder if the unexpected power cuts would cause crash/problem on the Linux Operation System? If it is something that I should worry, what would you suggest to prevent the damages on OS against the unexpected power cuts? PS. The application needs to writes some data to the storage medium (SD card), I think it would not be suitable to mount it as read-only.

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  • No power to HP pavilion dv 1000

    - by Imajica666
    I am working on a friends laptop. I get no power indicator light while plugged in to ac outlet. Will not power on with just the battery. Might this be a case of replacing the system board? I have never broken open a laptop so I am not sure what the best path to take might be. Thanks for any opinions.

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  • Software to measure power draw of HP Server

    - by tombull89
    I'm after some software to measure the power draw of a HP Server, namely a DL360 series. I know Nagios is used for logging and monitering but I'm not sure if it logs power usage as well. I've also tried to find the HP Server Management package but am not sure if this shows power usage either. I'm thinking my best bet would to buy some sort of device that goes inbetween the wall and the servers plug. Can anybody suggest what would do for me?

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  • Laptop accessories for mobile warrior (light power adapter & case/bag)

    - by wonsungi
    Lugging my X301 between work and home, I realized my laptop's accessories weigh more than the laptop itself! I'm ordering a 2nd AC power adapter so I don't even have to carry one at all, but I may as well get the lightest one possible. My X301 came with a pretty svelt 65W power adapter, but can anyone suggest a lighter power adapter or confirm the weights I've found below? mass vol dimensions W Model ---- ------- ----------- --- ------------------- 210g 149cm^3 108x46x30mm 65W Coolermaster [NA 65] 244g 189cm^3 140x75x18mm 65W ThermalTake [ADP65W0001] 260g 130cm^3 104x43x29mm 65W Lenovo (came with X301) 326g 198cm^3 145x76x18mm 95W Coolermaster [SNA 95] 330g 180cm^3 150x60x20mm 90W Kensington USB [K38030US] Apple's 60W power adapter seems much smaller/lighter than the PC products listed above, so I think a better PC power adapter could exist. There are much smaller 45W "netbook" adapters, but are these too weak for my X301? I would not mind if it just meant the battery couldn't charge while the laptop was on, but I am afraid there will be worse consequences. Also, I have decided to swap my Logitech Kinetik briefcase for a Tom Bihn Ristretto. Less protection, but much lighter, less bulky, and easier to carry. Any suggestions for better laptop cases/bags?

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  • Melting plastic around DC-in jack in laptop

    - by Ove
    I recently noticed that the plastic around the DC-in jack of my laptop was warped (melted) a little bit. Since I noticed, I have done some experiments, and saw that the metal tip of the charger heats up very much when I am gaming, or performing CPU-intensive work (it's so hot that i can't hold it between my fingers). When I am using Windows normally (web browsing, music, video), the tip is not hot. I tried using another charger from a compatible laptop, but its metal tip overheated as well, so the problem is not caused by the charger. I have been using this laptop for gaming for 1.5 years and I never had this problem. When gaming I always use a laptop cooler. Dust is not the problem (i cleaned out the dust), and the CPU and GPU temperatures are not higher than when I got the laptop. The only thing that is excessively hot is the charger tip. Because I bought my laptop from the USA, sending it to warranty and back would cost more than the laptop's value, so I need to fix it myself. I have googled around, and I saw that the problem might be the DC-in jack that is located on the motherboard of the laptop. I plan to take the laptop apart and see if it has become loose, and soldering it in place if it has. My questions for you are: Did anyone deal with this problem in the past? Did anyone manage to fix it? Is the DC-in jack the culprit in this case? Or is it possible for the problem to be caused by another part on the motherboard? Is there any way I can check the DC-in jack with a multimeter? What should I measure (resistance, etc)? EDIT: My laptop is a Sager NP5135 (aka Clevo B5130M). I also posted on NBR, including some pictures: link

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  • CPU fan twitching phase leds blinking - computer won't boot

    - by SooX
    I have a big problem that I got today. Yesterday computer was "on" normally, I went to sleep without shutting it down. When I woke up, I heard a strange sound and was unable to bring it up from hibernate. I unplugged the PSU. When I plugged the PSU back in, the sound came back. When I opened the case, I saw the fan "twitching" like it is about to start and fan LEDs were blinking. Also, motherboard LEDs were blinking in the same pattern - the first green one has more of luminosity then others. When I cut down the power with 0/1 button on PSU, the fans continue to make sounds like the machine is trying to boot before the capacitors run out and the power dies. Does anyone have a clue what to do? I tried disassembling everything but that doesn't work. I will try with friend's PSU later today.

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  • Minimum power requirement for VGA vs. its working

    - by Shiki
    Got a new XFX GTX260^2 video card. The only problem is the "Minimum power" is 500W on the box. I've got a Chieftec 450AA PSU with just a minimal number of attached stuff (1hdd, WD green; 6gb (4module) ram; dvd writer). Bought a cable for the 6pin power input on the card. Got picture, works in every aspect. Still. Should I get a new PSU (like a Corsair or Antec 600W)? Will the card perform slower with this PSU? (Yeah the last part is a particular question but in I'm also asking in generic. I was wondering about this so many times and I hope we'll put and end for this question for once and for all.)

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  • Is there a more intelligent way to do this besides a long chain of if statements or switch?

    - by Harrison Nguyen
    I'm implementing an IRC bot that receives a message and I'm checking that message to determine which functions to call. Is there a more clever way of doing this? It seems like it'd quickly get out of hand after I got up to like 20 commands. Perhaps there's a better way to abstract this? public void onMessage(String channel, String sender, String login, String hostname, String message){ if (message.equalsIgnoreCase(".np")){ // TODO: Use Last.fm API to find the now playing } else if (message.toLowerCase().startsWith(".register")) { cmd.registerLastNick(channel, sender, message); } else if (message.toLowerCase().startsWith("give us a countdown")) { cmd.countdown(channel, message); } else if (message.toLowerCase().startsWith("remember am routine")) { cmd.updateAmRoutine(channel, message, sender); } }

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  • Touchpad stops working when plugging in new laptop PSU

    - by drahcir
    I recently bought a psu for my Compaq 6710b and when I plug it in to the laptop the touchpad seems to go stop working, especially when the laptop is charging. I checkout this site and it suggests that the problem might be static electricity building up due to poor earthing.I tried replacing the cable that leads from the psu to the wall socket with the one I had of my old psu but to no avail. I even tried to see if I put the psu farther away might reduce to interference but also resulted in failure. Any ideas on how I could solve this problem?

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  • Computer turns itself on after any off mode

    - by Patrick
    Whenever I shut down my computer, or put it in sleep/hybernate, it turns on after two seconds. It doesn't post, it just powers on and then idles. To actually turn it off, I switch off the psu. The problem is now, whenever I switch the psu on and try to boot, it doesn't always turn on. It takes a good amount of flicking the psu switch on and off before the motherboard lights up. So far I've determined the things its not: its not caused by the mouse or network waking up the computer. I've been able to go into hybernate for the past year. And all "wake on X" settings in the bios are diabled. its not a scheduled task waking up the computer at a given hour, it occurs every single time its not due to an upgrade or new installation, since I haven't done either in a very long time I'm sure its a hardware issue. So I'd like to know, is my psu dead, or the motherboard? The psu is an Antec Earthwatts 600w, the motherboard is an Asus P5Q-E, both one year old.

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