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  • Is it better to always purchase as much as higher in Watts SMPS, for PC?

    - by metal gear solid
    Is it better to always purchase as much as higher in Watts SMPS, for PC? Does higer watts SMPS also consume more power (electricity bill)? How to know how much watts of SMPS we should purchase? What are factor who decide how much watt of power will need? I'm going to purchase a new Motherboard + CPU + HDD + RAM + DVD Wrtiter + SATA 500 GB HDD ? I'm not purchasing any external Graphic Card. How to decide which watt of SMPS ,I should purchase?

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  • PSU failing or Mainboard failing?

    - by Andrei Rinea
    I am having some troubles lately powering on my desktop workstation. While starting up the PC after being off for hours (usually at least 8 hours) it randomly fails to do so. What happens is that : I press the power button; nothing happens I can hear a moderate buzzing noise at the back of the PC (near the PSU); but I can't say for sure that it's not from the mainboard. If I insist pressing the power button a few times in 1-2 minutes it'll start Another route would be that instead of (3) I will plug off the power cable from the PSU and wait for 30 seconds. Then I will press the power on and keep it for 30-60 seconds (I had some success at notebooks with a similar approach). Then I will plug back the cable in the PSU, press only once the power button and it will start normally. Also while running normally I keep hearing some low buzzing which seems to be fan-RPM-related (i.e. when processing images or doing CPU intensive work). What should I look into? UPDATE It's getting worse. It took more than 10 retries today and almost 20 minutes to start the computer. I tried the paperclip trick and the PSU behaves perfectly. I managed to start the computer like so : I pressed the on-button a few times and then left the PC in a pre-startup state (the fans were working the buzzing noise was strong and I went to eat. I thought I won't lit the house on fire so fast and without smelling. Back, after 10-15 min the computer booted up! Discussed with a fellow at Intel and he told me the capacitors on the mainboard are probably a bit shot. If they are shot, he said, it should start up warm perfectly. So I did restart it, warm, a few times (5 sec cooldown and then 40 sec cooldown and it started up perfectly). I can either replace the capacitors on the mainboard (doesn't sound worth it or replace the mainboard (this one sucks too :)) ) FINAL INFO : It was the PSU after all. Although it was powering the IDEs and SATAs the Mainboard power module was failing. I bought another mainboard just to find out that this wasn't the cause. Now I'll have to return it somehow. The spare PSU is now in the computer and doing well.. Although larger (500W), it's like a plane taking off.. I need a better one.

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  • How much money can I save from installing a 80 plus bronze or gold PSU? [closed]

    - by David
    Currently I've only a 300 watt PSU and my pc is working like a charm but with all the components it should use the psu to the max. Recently I've read about 80 plus certificate and I'm wondering if it's worth to buy a 80 plus certificate psu? My power cost last year was also higher then before and my pc turns almost 14/7 a day. I mean power cost in used power not in augmented prices. I'm also planing to buy a SLI video card.

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  • Can you plug-in the battery while laptop is on AC only?

    - by Ivan Petrushev
    Hello, I'm using my laptop at home with battery removed and only connected to the AC power. However I'm lacking the mobility as my power cord is kinda short. Is it safe from electrical point of view to plug in the battery while the laptop is connected to AC and disconnect the AC power afterwards? What about the opposite side of the question - is it safe (or what the damage could be) if you work on battery, plug in the AC and unplug the battery? If there are differents for different models of laptops, I'm asking about IBM Lenovo T60. Is there such thing as a 'hot-plug battery'?

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  • Can I animate render targets or the swap chain?

    - by Eric F.
    I want to animate some synthetic video bits to fullscreen w/o tearing. Can I set up D3D 9/10/11 in exclusive mode, and have it present a series of buffers that I'm writing to? I know how to copy system memory bits into a texture, then draw that texture as a fullscreen quad, but it seems like overkill. Why should I use the triangle rasterizer when I want to do something so simple? All I want to do is set up a long (4-8 buffer) swapchain and set the bits of the back buffer that is about to be displayed. Or, I want to allocate 4-8 RenderTargets, and on each frame, copy the bits from system memory to the RenderTarget, then set it as the next thing to display. I've never seen or heard about anybody doing this, but it seems so dead simple!

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  • I get regular power surges and my UPS ticks a lot due to a welding plant. Is this good or bad?

    - by EApubs
    In our home, there is a mechanic who often use a welding plant. When he use it, I think we get a power surge. My UPS ticks madly (not beep, it ticks). Sometimes, I even lose power to the keyboard. When typing, some keys get missing. 1) My question is, is it good for the computer? The UPS claimed to have surge protection. But isn't it working? What should I do to protect my PC? 2) The second question is, I also have a broadband router which is not connected to the UPS. Will it be effected?

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  • How can I guess if a USB cable will power my devices?

    - by rsanchez
    I've had problems with one long (4 meter) USB Mini-B to USB Type-A cable not being able to boot a 2.5'' external hard disc due to not supplying enough current. On top of that, the cable used a Type-A to Mini-B adapter for the Mini-B part, which probably made things worse. Three different shorter cables I got around made the hard disk work without extra current, so it was definitively the cable's fault. However, if I plugged the hard disk to the power, and used the long cable just for data it worked. Here is some related information on powering through USB cables: http://www.girr.org/mac_stuff/usb_stuff.html I have not any long cables that don't have an intermediary Type-A to Mini-B adapter to try them out. My question is: is there a way to guess if a cable will provide enough power for charge/disk drive power? Is it related to the length of the cable, to the build quality of the cable, or the fact that uses intermediary adapters?

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  • Redundant APC UPS units, single server set up

    - by Sholom
    Hi All We have a very simple set up, looking for a very simple (reliable) solution: Setup: One Dell box with redundant power supplies running Windows 2003, plugged into two separate APC SmartUPS 1500 units (USB, no smart cards) on two separate circuits. Solution required: IF (UPS1 = Low) AND (UPS2 = Low) THEN: Shutdown gracefully ELSE: DO NOTHING!! APCUPSD only allowes for one instance (and therefore one UPS) in a windows environment. PowerChute can't do this without using APC Smart Cards which means utilizing our switch, but the switch does not have redundant power supplies, so it will only live for as long as one of the two UPS units. And no, i don't have the budget to buy two smart cards pluse a switch with redundancy ;) Thanks

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  • Should laptops remain plugged in when their battery is 100% charged?

    - by Click Upvote
    I've been hearing mixed responses to this, so would like to hear the final answer. When your laptop's battery is 100% charged, should you leave it plugged in so any battery power doesn't get used, or will that cause overcharging, overheating. etc? Should the laptop be unplugged when battery is 100%? I'm asking because my laptop's screen tends to get dim when unplugged, so I don't like to run it on battery. (Any fixes to this would also be helpful.)

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  • Computer turns off and on after start ..then goes dead

    - by Shiki
    I built a new PC from the following components: - CPU: Intel Core i7 950 - MB: Gigabyte X58A-UD3R - RAM: 2x2gb i7 Corsair memory - VGA: Zotac AMP2 GTX260 - HDD: 1 GreenSATA HDD (Western Digital 500gb RE2) When I turn it on, it goes for a few seconds, fans at maximum speed, then turns off. The again, it starts by itself.. and goes with fans on max speed, nothing happens. First I suspected my PSU. It's a Chieftec 450AA PSU. After I borrowed a Chieftec 550AA PSU, I tried to start with that. Exact same story. Any idea ? Do I need a bigger PSU? Reason why its not localized. I never seen this turn on, off, on. If you give answer for that, it would already help people like me, with the same problem.

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  • MacBook (13 in. Aluminum late 08) power adapter starting to fail

    - by Mr. Man
    I have a MacBook (Late '08 13 In. Aluminum) with the Apple provided power adapter. I think it may be failing because It takes a little moving around with the cable nearest where it connects to the MacBook to get it to charge (small light turns on). The area of cable nearest the MacBook gets very hot, almost burning. Any ideas of how I could fix it? Hopefully without replacing the adapter. Thanks in advance!

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  • Computer does not boot, often

    - by tam
    I've ran into a issue with my computer that it does no longer reach POST, but simply powers on for a fraction of a second and powers off. But this is not always, some times it boots just normally and it works as it should, no issues with not enough power or anything. But as soon as I turn it of, I can not turn it back on, but then again at some random point it just powers up again, and resumes normal operation. If I disconnect the 8pin ATX connector from the motherboard, it powers up, fans and disks spinning normally until I power it off again. So this problem only happens when ATX is connected, which seems odd, I normally always saw this kind of an error if ATX was not connected, but here it's the exact opposite. It also does not emit any sound on the buzzer, except the normal beep, when it powers up normally. I have already tried: Remove graphics card Remove one and/or all RAM sticks Disconnect everything non-essential, even hard drives Clear CMOS I have not yet tried to remove all components and tried to boot everything outside of the case, because I did not have the time to disassemble and bleed the water loop. However, I can confirm that nothing is stuck underneath the motherboard, not is any of those brass raisers touching the board where it should not. Specs: Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3 AMD FX6300 ATI HD7850 I think this should be enough for this issue.

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  • Laptop screen turns off on removing power cord

    - by YatharthROCK
    After a recent upgrade to Windows 8.1 Pro from W8, my laptop's screen turns off as soon as you remove the power cord. It turns back on with no issues when you plug the power back in. Keyboard and mouse input is processed while the screen is off. My settings tell the screen to go off after 2 minutes of inactivity on battery. I was having a battery issue from before where my laptop would should down after 5 minutes of running on battery (despite showing 60% left), but I think that's unrelated. Any other info will be provided on request. Can anyone help me figure out what's going on? How can I stop this behaviour?

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  • Could I replace a stock PSU fan with a more quiet one?

    - by GaryJL
    I have a cheap 450W PSU with an exhaust fan at the rear. This fan, however, is very loud. Is it a good idea to replace the stock PSU fan with a quiet fan with similar airflow? The PSU fan is hard-wired to the PCB in the PSU so I was intending on snipping the stock fan wires and sealing the loose ends with electrical tape. I would then connect the new quiet fan to the PWR_FAN socket on the motherboard. Has anyone done this before themselves? Is it a good idea in the first place? Considering if my PSU fails, it could take out a couple of other components too.

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  • System won't boot: Gigabyte HD 7790 1GB OC GPU issue or Corsair VS550 PSU issue?

    - by MGOwen
    Installed a new GPU, and PC won't boot. Turn it on and: No monitor signal at all (tried HDMI and VGA via DVI, on 2 working monitors). CPU and GPU fans DO spin, but No system beeps, no sounds from drives (they might make a small noise in the first 1 second or so, but there's definitely no OS loading or anything like that) If hit "power off" button it turns off immediately (no holding down for 3 seconds like usual) If I put my old HD 5670 GPU back in, everything works fine. But (plot twist!) card is not totally dead. My friend put it in his PC, and it works fine (he even played a game for 15 minutes, no issues). He has a Corsair TX850 850W and a Gigabyte MB. So my main theory is: the GPU isn't getting enough power from the PSU. But is it: Bad PSU? Seems unlikely, since it works fine with the other GPU. Also, the PSU Is brand new and 550W (single 42A/504W 12V rail). Overkill for this GPU. Corsair is a decent brand, but maybe just mine is faulty? Bad GPU? Could it be drawing more power than it should be, somehow, or something? Supposedly HD 7790 needs only 21A/75W on the 12v rail, though this one is factory overclocked a bit... but should that triple the power requirement? Something else? Could there be a motherboard incompatibility somehow? Both MB and GPU are less than a year old and PCI Express 3.0 x16. Things I've tried: Re-seating the video card Testing PC with old GPU (works fine, same PCIe slot). Checked AMD's stated amp/watt requirements of a 7790 and my PSU (see above). My PSU can output twice the amps (single rail) and 5x the Wattage a 7790 needs. Here are the full specs: Gigabyte HD 7790 1GB OC GPU Corsair VS550 550W PSU 4GB RAM AsRock H61M U3S3 motherboard i3-2100 500GB SATA HDD (2007-ish) blu-ray drive (new) PCI 802.11g card Edit: Motherboard BIOS Update seems to have fixed it. (If anyone has same problem and it doesn't work, comment here).

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  • does leaving the laptop cord in break the cord?

    - by firedrake
    i recently got a new cord for my laptop because the cord i had before broke.im not sure how it got messed up, but one moment it charged my laptop and the next moment it didn't. i then got a new cord. the new cord worked perfectly fine until now, and it has only been a month. the cord wont work unless i am pressing it into the socket, which i am currently doing. the only thing i can find in common with the cords is that i leave them plugged in 24/7. my brother says that is the problem, but i do not think it is.any tips or hints? im going to use duct tape to keep the pressure on the cord till i can find a better solution(im also thinking it could be the hole i plug it into on the back of my computer, but im focusing on the other idea for now.if i wiggle the plug part in the socket of my computer it will stop charging unless im pressing it in or to the side) any help or ideas are appreciated. not sure if this will help but i use a gateway with windows vista. thanks

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  • (Why) are IEC C5/C6 connectors a necessity? Why not use C13/C14?

    - by Mike
    That's a question I was asking myself the first time I saw such a weird C5 plug. That was a while ago, but I came across it again and haven't found an answer yet. The only thing I could find out is that C5 is with 2.5A and C13 with 10A. But I guess it would technically be no problem building an AC adapter (e.g. for laptops) in which you plug the far more common C13 connector. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_connector

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  • Gaming blew fuse: how to overcome?

    - by George Tomlinson
    I've been gaming for a while now. When playing certain games this PC goes into overdrive. The fan/fans start/s to sound like a jet engine it/they get/s so busy. Also I have smelt burning when this has happened. The fuse blew on the 4 socket adapter I was using recently. On the following thread someone said this could be due to the PSU not being strong enough to handle the load, in what it seems could be a related issue someone had, although the person who posted this question did say that blowing a fan on their PC stopped it crashing in that case: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2047543/gtx-650-overheating-issue.html. This is exactly what they said: Your GPU isn't overheating. 70+ before it would shutdown and cause a restart. Make sure your PSU is strong enough to handle your new system at load and possibly run Memtest to check your RAM (although not BSOD'ing and just shutting down points to the PSU). This (the PSU part) makes more sense to me than it being to do with dust etc, since it seems a more plausible explanation of why the fuse blew. The PC has no problems except when playing certain games: i.e. TERA Rising and WoW with add-ons (I think WoW is ok as long as I don't have more than 1 add-on (Healers Have To Die)). I'm just wondering if anyone knows or can suggest what I might be able to do to be able to play these games without this problem occurring. The PC's spec is this: Display: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 650 8GB RAM (6 available) Processor: AMD FX (tm) - 8120 Eight-Core Processor - 3.1 GHz, 4 Cores, 8 Logical Processors I have read on another post that forcing vsync in the Nvidia Control Panel helped with what seems could be a similar problem, so I plan to see if that solves it, God permitting.

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  • At what point does the performance gap between GPU & CPU become so great that the CPU is holding back a system?

    - by Matthew Galloway
    I know that generally speaking for gaming performance the GPU is the primary factor which holds back performance, with everything else such as RAM/motherboard/PSU/CPU being secondary in importance to the graphics card. But at some point the other components ARE going to be significant in holding back the whole system! For instance nobody would be silly enough to play modern games with 512MB RAM and the very latest graphics cards (such as an HD7970) as I bet the performance increase over such a system with only 512MB but a mid range card would be non-existent! Thus it would be a "waste" for such a person to buy any high end graphics card without resolving first the system's other problems. The same point applies to other components, such as if it only had a Pentium II a current high end graphics card would be wasted on it! So my core question is how do you determine at what point for your system is spending on extra GPU power be completely "wasted"? (also, a slightly more nuanced question is trying work out at what point might the extra graphics power not be "wasted" but would be "sub optimal" value for money, when the expenditure should then be split around graphics card and other components. As obviously a gamer shouldn't always just spend on upgrading the graphics card! But needs to balance it out)

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  • how did my laptop lose daylight savings time on power loss?

    - by EndangeringSpecies
    it was an old laptop that may or may not have dead CMOS battery (at least it had time reset to 0 when I dusted it off). So, it was plugged into power for awhile without the main battery and the clock was correct. Then there was a power outage. When I subsequently turned it on, surprise-surprise, it had one hour off correct time. So the clock apparently kept running during the outage, but daylight savings time info vanished (from disk? where is it stored?) How come?

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  • DELL Inspiron N 5050 doesn't Power On until I Plug-in the Charger

    - by hannanessay
    I bought a Dell Inspiron N 5050 last week, and recently discovered a problem with my laptop. It doesn't Power On until and unless I Plug-in the charger. After I plug-in the charger, it boots up fine, and continues to work well after disconnecting the charger. I don't know what the problem is exactly? I was planning to contact Customer Care, but I wanted to know if I could fix it myself. Please help!

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  • Can I copy a cross compiler tool chain between systems (I did before)?

    - by Jamie
    I tested fairly extensively with Ubuntu 10.04 Beta 2 Server in a VM, and was able to simply copy (read tar x) a cross compiled tool chain from an Ubuntu 8.10 VM. I created the tar myself, which is essentially a lot of stuff in \usr\local. Now that I've got a bare metal installation of Ubuntu 10.04 proper, the copy isn't working. In particularly, I'm getting the error: $ arm-linux-gcc -bash: /usr/local/bin/arm-linux-gcc: No such file or directory I've got the systems side by side in SSH windows ... any suggestions?

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  • Mouse Hang with voltage fluctuation

    - by user265495
    I bought a new assembled PC about a month ago, but for the past 7 or 8 days I found my mouse cursor hangs every time there is a voltage fluctuation on my UPS (I guess it as when sound comes from ups then mouse hang for 2 or 3 sec. and them it goes normal again). My PC also seems to shut down while I'm working and it refuses to boot again - I end up needing to switch off my UPS and press and hold the power button for 30 seconds. It will then boot as per normal. Could the trouble be with my PSU? Am I potentially damaging my computer by pressing and holding the power button? I have : Motheboard : intel Chipset Model - DH61WWAAG23116-303 Processor : Intel Core i3 3.20 Ghz RAM : Zion 4 gb DDR3 HDD : 1 tb GRAPHICS : 2 gb NVIDIA GeForce GT-610 CABINET : Frontech Rock OS : Win 7 32 Bit

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