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  • Can I replace a broken PSU with one of a smaller size?

    - by Carson Myers
    I have a broken OEM power supply unit that is cooked. I'm browsing online to find a replacement and am happy to see that they don't cost too much -- the only thing is they all seem to have varying sizes. Is it a problem if I get a PSU that is smaller than the original one? This is going in an HP Pavillion a000, it's about five and a half years old -- I don't know if that means anything, I just thought there might be some recent standardized dimensions for PSUs or something. No idea.

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  • Will this car adapter power this Laptop?

    - by CT
    I'm looking to buy a number of car power adapters to be used with some Dell laptops. http://www.cdw.com/shop/products/default.aspx?EDC=1382005 ^ This is the item I am currently looking at. Will it be able to power a Dell Lattitude E6500? Looking at the power supply of the laptop, it states that it is a 90W-AC Adapter. The car adapter states that it is a 60W DC - AC Power Inverter. Will this work? Do I need an DC-AC Power Inverter that is 90W or higher? I am nothing close to an electrician, please help me out. Thank you.

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  • Is the 4-pin PSU connector required? (Trying to connect a PSU to a mini case.)

    - by Geeks On Hugs
    I am trying to build a computer, placing an ASUS P8H67-I DELUXE in a custom retro C64 case. The case is an extra small form factor which can accomodate the Mini ITX board, but requires an external power supply, similar to the power-bricks that laptops use. I am looking at different power supplies and like these, but cannot figure out whether/how to power this system because they provide a 24-pin connector, but the motherboard has a 4-pin connector as well. Is the 4-pin connector optional or is it required? If it is required, how can I provide power for this system?

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  • Computer cables explained

    - by Robert English
    I've noticed lately that places to learn about both power supply cables and also peripherals and fans aren't that easy to find. There's very little information available that gives detailed explanations of what cables are used inside a computer. What I found was very dated and often lacked detailed explanations. For someone planning out their first build it would be great way for this to be explained all in one place, like here! Important things to know about cables and connections in a computer? What are their names? Where do they connect to and why? What typical Voltages do they output? Changing Voltages for Overclocking? Please refernce PSU cables(Full modular, Modular and Non-Modular,24-pin, 20+4-pin etc), SATA(I, II, III), Molex etc. EDIT: Forgot to mention any information about PSU rails would also be appreciated :)

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  • Linux: disbale USB without disabling power

    - by Ergot
    TLDR I want toggle between the following usages of a usb-port via the terminal: use like a normal usb-port only supply energy to charge Story I recently got me something like a magna doodle that can save your drawings to pdf, which can be moved to your computer via usb afterwards. Now the thing is that you can't save anything while it's plugged in. Because it's the only way to charge it, it bugs me that I can't find a software solution and laziness I want to keep it plugged in and toggle the connection to the computer only when needed. I noticed that it's charging and usable when it is plugged in and the computer is shut down or suspened. So I guess that there's a way to do it. Tech info computer: ThinkPad X201 Linux Kernel: 3.14.5-1-ARCH "Magna doodle": Boogie Board Sync

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  • Is it safe to use an IDE to SATA power adapter for an extended period of time?

    - by qwertymk
    I just bought a computer from HP and they failed to include SATA power connectors with the power supply other then the one HD and DVD drive. Meanwhile I have two IDE to SATA power adapters that came with my "USB 2.0 to SATA/IDE cable" http://www.amazon.com/USB-2-0-SATA-Cable-Adapter/dp/B001OORN06 3rd pic on the left. I was wondering if I would just open up my computer and use it to plug it my SATA drives to the IDE power sources and mount it to the motherboard, would it damage my drives in the long run or have any other significant effects. A friend told me he knows people who have had their HD burn out because of this

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  • What are the essential considerations for setting up systems in a location with unreliable power?

    - by dunxd
    I deal with a lot of remote offices located in parts of the world where the local grid power supply is unreliable. Power can go off anytime with no warning, with outages ranging from minutes to days Power fluctuation is wild, with spikes and brown outs Currently the offices will have some or all of the following: A generator, with an inverter, or some sort of manual switch A big UPS or battery array connecting a number of devices Several smaller APC UPS with computers attached Low cost Voltage Regulators sometimes connected between mains and UPS or device. I know that each of these things needs to be appropriately rated for the equipment to which it is connected (although I am not sure how to calculate the correct rating). The offices will generally have the following equipment (in varying quantities): some sort of internet connection device (VSAT router, ADSL modem, WiMax router) Cisco ASA 5505 firewall a bunch of PCs printers one server I don't seek to replace the advice of an electrician, but in some of these locations they only answer the questions you ask them, so I need to make sure I have enough understanding of the essentials to protect equipment from damage, and possibly get through some power cuts.

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  • My 386sx refuses to start in cold days

    - by Armadillo
    My old computer refuses to start in cold days. So, in really hot days (about 40ºC / 104ºF ) or even hotter, this PC usually starts, but in cold days, it wont. When the temperature is not in the "sweet-spot" the power light turns on for an half a second and then the computer turns off. But when it's really cold, not even the power light turns on, nor even a blink. Sometimes I use an Hair dryer, pointed directly to the PSU and that works great. 5 to 10 minutes is enough, depending on the ambient temperature. I think something is going wrong in my AT power supply. I can't replace this PSU for another because it has a non-standard size and connectors to power the motherboard. Does anybody have a clue about what it's failing in my PSU, so I can change that component (resistor, capacitor, ??, etc) and rock on with my 80386? Thanks

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  • Computer sometimes doesn't boot after power failure, what should I replace?

    - by user1416256
    I have a new computer that behaves strange after a power failure. When I switch off the computer it will not boot anymore. Completely unplugging the computer for about an hour cures the issue for the next boot. The internal leds are working I have no idea where to start looking. What, in your opinion could be the cause of this strange behaviour ? My best bet would be to replace the power supply Would that be a good place to start ?

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  • Why does my HDD produce a high-pitched noise when the CPU is in use?

    - by CyberOptic
    I know this is strange. Some time ago, I bought a new 7200rpm HDD for my desktop system (I'll look for the model later). Every time the CPU is used, a high frequency cheep comes from the HDD. I'm sure it's the HDD because the problem does not occur if the HDD is not attached or is in energy-saving mode (I cross-checked by booting from a live CD). What could be the reason for the cheep sounds? Could it be the power supply?

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  • How to force a hard drive to shut down

    - by Phenom
    I have a hard drive in my computer that I'm not using. I want Windows 7 to shut it down. I don't want to have to manually remove the cable. (The reason is that for some strange reason my computer will not boot if it's not connected. disk boot failure after upgrading power supply) I know that Windows 7 will shut it down after a certain period of time of it not being used. How can I force it to shut down without having to wait for this?

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  • Motherboard dual gfx power question

    - by user33931
    1st, I am software guy. I do not do hardware. So I know to you hardware geeks, this is a dumb question. I just inherited a box with a ASUS P5GZ-MX mother board. I have attempted to install two nVidia PCI video cards. I put a 750w power supply in the system to be sure I have enough power. With no extra video cards, the 3.3 v shows normal. When I put one card in, the 3.3 goes to 3.5-3.6 and flashes red (over voltage) about 30% of the time. When I put the 2nd card in, it goes to 3.73 v and stays red all the time. Any Ideas why the voltage goes up when I add cards instead of going down? More Importantly, is this dangerous to the system?

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  • Why won't my computer turn off?

    - by kinglime
    I have recently replaced my old Corsair TX650M PSU with a new CoolerMaster Silent Pro Gold 800w PSU. With the old PSU when I turned off my computer from windows it would shut down and everything would turn off. The lights would turn off and the fans would stop turning. With my new power supply when I shut down windows It shows the usual shutting down dialog then my two monitors say "no signal" and turn off. The weird part however is that the lights stay on and the fans continue spinning forever until I manually hold the power button in for 4 seconds then finally everything shuts off. How can I emulate the previous behavior?

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  • How to chain actions/animations together and delay their execution?

    - by codinghands
    I'm trying to build a simple game with a number of screens - 'TitleScreen', 'LoadingScreen', 'PlayScreen', 'HighScoreScreen' - each of which has it's own draw & update logic methods, sprites, other useful fields, etc. This works well for me as a game dev beginner, and it runs. However, on my 'PlayScreen' I want to run some animations before the player gets control - dropping in some artwork, playing some sound effects, generally prettifying things a little. However, I'm not sure what the best way to chain animations / sound effects / other timed general events is. I could make an intermediary screen, 'PrePlayScreen', which simply has all of this hardcoded like so: Update(){ Animation anim1 = new Animation(.....); Animation anim2 = new Animation(.....); anim1.Run(); if(anim1.State == AnimationState.Complete) anim2.Run(); if(anim2.State == AnimationState.Complete) // Load 'PlayScreen' screen } But this doesn't seem so great - surely their must be a better way? I then thought, 'Hey - an AnimationManager! That'd be awesome!'. But then that creeping OOP panic set in as I thought about it some more. If I create the Animation in my Screen, then add it to the AnimationManager (which may or may not be a GameComponent hooked up to Update/Draw), how can I get 'back' to it? To signal commands like start / end / repeat? I'd still need to keep a reference to the object in my Screen so that I could still communicate with it once it's buried in the bosom of a List in my AnimationManager. This seems bad. I've also tried using events - call 'Update' on all the animations in the PlayScreen update loop, but crucially all of the animations have a bool flag ('Active') which determines whether they should begin. The first animation has this set to 'true', all others 'false'. On completion the first animation raises an event, which sets animation 2's bool flag to true (and so it then runs). Once animation 2 is complete another 'anim complete' event is raised, and the screen state changes. Considering the game I'm making is basically as simple as it gets I know I'm overthinking this... it's just the paradigm shift from web - game development is making me break out in a serious case of the stupids.

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  • Motherboard HDDPWR1 connector

    - by Eric Leschinski
    I need help identifying the name of a connector. I have a Gateway DX4870-UB318 computer, I opened the case and wanted to attach another hard drive, but to my surprise one existing SATA hard drive was connected to the motherboard with this connector: And here is the spot on the Motherboard where the power was supplied. What is the name of this adapter and where can I get another one? Clues: This computer was bought new October 2013 from best buy, box number: DX4870-UB318. The gateway folks won't divulge the type of motherboard it has nor give specs on it. On the wire itself is an identification code: H.35090NJ01-000 Next to the connector on the motherboard it says: HDDPWR1 and the second one says HDDPWR2. This cable has two SATA power connectors and one mystery connector. The power supply has no molex power cables and no SATA power connectors! This is the most bizarre hard drive power system I've seen. I guess the motherboard folks are trying to remove the burden for desktop power supplies to provide adapters (molex, SATA, other) to CD's and hard drives. Can someone put a name on that white flat 6 pin HDD Power Connector? My Solution I can buy a "SATA Power Y Splitter Cable" to provide more spaces to power sata devices.

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  • Computer turns off unexpectedly

    - by Shahar
    My computer turns itself off unexpectedly after some time of use. It appears that this might be temperature related, but not for sure. I installed 2 tools that monitor temperature: SpeedFan and CPU Thermometer. The only definite finding is that there is a sensor (labelled temp1 in SpeedFan and CPU in CPU thermometer), which shows a temperature of 108C a second before the computer powers down. Until that moment, this sensor shows a constant temperature of 40C. I can usually reproduce the shutdown by viewing a few movies together, which cause another sensor (labelled CPU in SpeedFan) to go up to 60sC, but I do experience the problem even at times when this sensor remains low and cool. It does seem that the problem is more frequent if the computer is turned back on immediately after shutdown, but not always. I have had other hardware problems recently, which might be related: My hard disk heated up. I installed a fan on it, which worked to reduce the heat. The hard disk sensor shows around 40C. I had occasional blue screens and hard disk failures. Replacing the power supply seems to solve both these issues, but then this powerdown problem began appearing. I would appreciate any suggestions as to how to determine where the fault is, or what needs to be replaced.

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  • Ungrounded laptop (Macbook Pro) buzzes in headphones, weird feeling when fingers brush lightly

    - by donut
    I've got a nearly 3-year-old MacBook Pro 15" 2.16GHz (MacBookPro2,2). When I have am not using the extended, grounded adapter for the power supply, just using the simple, two-prong plug I can hear a buzzing when I use very sensitive earbuds. This goes away if I touch a metal part of the laptop. Also, I can feel a weird, fuzzy feeling when I brush the metal parts of the laptop lightly with my fingers/skin. Somewhat similar to feeling of a touching hair or a balloon that's charged with static electricity. But I'm not getting sparks or anything. And if I'm touching a metal part of my laptop solidly (not just brushing it) and then I touch someone else's skin I can feel the same effect and so can my victim. I've noticed similar effects with an ungrounded electric blanket. But with that the buzzing can be easily heard without headphones. Is this a defect, normal, or something else? And what exactly is happening?

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  • Are These Parts compatible?

    - by ell
    I have never assembled a PC before, although I have taken an old one apart and replaced a few parts in others here and there so I have (very) limited experience. I have been looking to make a pc and here are the parts I might buy: Foxconn P45AL Intel P45 (Socket 775) DDR2 Motherboard (with onboard sound I believe) Gigabyte GeForce GTX 460 OC 768MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card Already have 2 1gb sticks of dual channel DDR2 memory Intel Core 2 Quad Q8400 LGA775 'Yorkfield' 2.66GHz 4MB-cache Processor Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB SATA-II 32MB Cache Hard Drive Antec Dark Fleet Series DF10 Gaming Enclosure – Black I already have monitor, mouse, keyboard and DVD/CD drive Akasa Freedom Power 1000W Modular Power Supply I have never done this before so feel free to laugh at me for getting something obvious wrong, forgetting a vital component etc. but is all of this compatible? And have I gone overkill on the PSU, if so, please recommend one. Thanks in advance, ell. EDIT: Added PSU which I forgot to mention EDIT: I would be using this to surf the internet, write e-mails, chat, word process, play games such as team fortress 2 & spring rts (at highest graphics hopefully), some 3d modelling in blender, some opengl programming, and image editing in GIMP.

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  • Supermicro X8SIL-F with Enermax Modu82+ 625W PSU booting issue

    - by Richard Whitman
    I am assembling a custom PC. The configuration is below: Motherboard: Supermicro X8SIL-F Processor: Intel Xeon 3430 Power Supply: Enermax Modu82+ 625W. Memory: Kingston KVR1333D3LQ8R9S/8GEC 8GBx1 installed in DimmA1 This power switch: Frozen CPU switch When I turn on the PSU, the motherboard tries to start itself before I even push the power switch. The following happens: The CPU fan rotates like once or twice, and then stops. After 1-2 seconds, the CPU fan tries to rotate again and stops after about one or two rotations. Finally, after another 1-2 seconds, it again starts and this time it rotates for about 3-4 seconds before stopping. If I pull out the Power switch, and turn on the PSU, again the MB turns on itself and the following happens: The CPU fan rotates like once or twice, and then stops. After 1-2 seconds, the CPU fan tries to rotate again and stops after about one or two rotations. Finally, after another 1-2 seconds, it again starts and the system boots properly I am sure there is nothing wrong with any of the components, because I have two sets of identical components (2 MBs, 2 CPUs, 2 PSUs, 2 switches and so on). And both of the systems show the same symptoms. Why is the MB booting up by itself? Why does it fail to boot when the Power Switch is installed? Is something wrong with the type of Power Switch I am using? PS: the power switch is installed correctly, I have double checked the MB manual to make sure its connecting the right pins.

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  • Why does my PC successfully boot only when unplugged for more than a few minutes?

    - by philg
    I have an HP Pavilion Elite desktop computer, model HPE-490t. I like it because it didn’t cost too much, boots itself from an SSD, came with 16 GB of RAM, and has 6 CPU cores for editing video and camera RAW images. It has one behavioral quirk that I cannot explain, however. The recent power interruptions here in the Northeast got the machine into a state where it could not be restarted. It would power up for a second or two, shut down, and then power up again, never being able to get to the point of showing anything on the monitor. I unplugged it for about 10 seconds and plugged it back in. Same behavior (fails to boot). I unplugged it and walked away for an hour, then plugged it back in and it worked perfectly! I think something similar happened after installing a second hard disk drive into this machine. So the question is why does the computer behave differently depending on how long it has been unplugged? Where is energy stored that affects the machine’s ability to boot? Capacitors in the power supply? Battery on the motherboard (there is one for the clock, but that wouldn’t be exhausted by being unplugged for an hour, I don’t think)?

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  • Dell Latitude D510 Runs From Battery But Not AC Adapter

    - by Jason George
    I have a Dell Latitude D510 that went belly up around two years ago. It will run from the battery, however, the wall adapter will neither power the machine nor charge the battery. Once the battery is dead, the machine is dead. Since it died I've searched repeatedly for solutions. I've tried a new AC adapter and even removed and replaced the DC jack thinking one of the solder joints might be bad. Both to no avail. After two years of searching I finally found the answer today. Since it's such a simple fix and I had such a hard time finding it I wanted to post the info for others (as it is apparently a common issue with the D510). -----SOLUTION----- It seems this is commonly caused by a cracked solder joint at pin 1 on an inductor filter pair (FL2) near the power jack. Pins 1 and 4 are ground and pins 2 and 3 are power. There should be 20V from 1 to 2 and 3. Anything less indicates a cracked joint that is increasing resistance and dropping the supply voltage. Repair simply requires reflowing all four pins with a little added solder for security. Detailed instructions can be found here. Dell Latitude D510 solder problem

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  • PC dies when running at 100% CPU

    - by user155631
    I recently wrote some Java code to generate images of the Mandelbrot set (fractal). I made use of the new Fork/Join facility in Java 7 to run separate threads on all four cores (2 real, 2 virtual)simultaneously, using a large number of iterations for greater accuracy. The problem is, the process runs fine for about a minute, and then it's as if someone has pulled the plug and the PC just dies. I thought it must be the CPUs overheating, so I ran Real Temp to monitor the temperature. It's an Intel i3 processor. I can see the temperature creeping up to 70 degrees, and then it seems to level off there and run for about another 30 seconds before dying. According to Real Temp, there's still a gap of 35 degrees between the actual temperature and TJ max. I also tried disabling "CPU TM function" in the BIOS, but the problem still occurs. A colleague suggested that it might be a power supply problem, so I borrowed a more powerful PSU (can't remember what wattage it was, but it's higher than mine which is 500W). The exact same thing still happens though. Is anyone able to suggest what the problem might be, or what I can try next?

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  • Computer making strange sound when turned on, ever since power outage

    - by Dot NET
    Recently we experienced a power outage, and the PC was off. However, once the power came back, I switched on the PC and heard a strange noise - almost as if the hard disk or fans were struggling to work. I can't really describe the sound, but it's a laboured, loud sound almost like a jack-hammer. This has been persisting ever since the power outage, however the noise stops after around 10 minutes or so, and doesn't start again until the computer is turned off and on again. At first I thought it had something to do with the HDD, but all my files are intact, chkdsk did not report any issues and performance is 100% unchanged, even in games (so the gfx card is fine, and so is the HDD most likely). My PC setup basically has around 3 cooling fans, but I'm not sure if it's one of these either as the noise actually stops after 10 minutes or so, and if I leave the PC on for 4 hours (for example) the noise never starts again. It's there solely when turning on the PC. I haven't got a UPS, and it's important to note that the computer was not on when the power went out - it was merely plugged in. I then promptly unplugged the PC once the power was out, and only plugged it in again when the power came back. Could it be the power supply? Unfortunately I can't open my tower as I would void the warranty. Are there any tests which I could carry out without voiding the warranty?

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  • Computer randomly shuts itself off

    - by Decency
    I have not been able to determine a pattern for why this happens, despite my best efforts. I've attempted to run it on full power with Prime95 and this doesn't trigger a restart. Generally the restarts occur while I'm playing games, watching videos, or even just having multiple tabs open in a browser. However, I often play processor intense games for hours without any restarts occurring, and sometimes they'll happen 3-4 times in an hour during less intense activity, so I don't think that is the problem. I imagine it has something to do with overheating or power consumption so I've been monitoring CPU temperature and cleaning with compressed air, but the problem keeps happening. I don't know how to track power consumption, and assume that this is the problem. Whenever this occurs, the sound gets stuck in a short loop of whatever was playing at the time, though restarts also occur when nothing is playing. Here is a screenshot of temperatures: and under load: Here's the parts list: http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=10546754 As shown in the list, the case includes a 585W Power Supply, which I've been told should be plenty. I built the computer myself with a friend's guidance but it's very possible I did something wrong. Right now I'm looking into ensuring that I have the latest drivers for all components. Any help would be appreciated- thanks.

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  • Computer turns on and off very quickly, then nothing, then works?

    - by hellohellosharp
    The strange nature of this problem is what is stumping me. I built my computer about 7 months ago using all new parts off of Newegg (not a kit or anything). One day, I wake up and turn on my computer. I press the power button and it turns on, but then back off after half a second. I press the power button again, this time nothing. I continue pressing the power button while at the same time turning the power supply on and off (to try and reset things). The power button still does nothing. But then, after about 5 minutes, WALLAH, it works just fine like nothing was ever wrong. It goes for an entire week working just fine. Then, one morning, the entire process starts again. I press the power button and it comes on and then right back off. I press the power button several times and nothing happens, and then it works again after a couple minutes of trying. What is going on with my computer?

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