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  • Evolution of Apple: A Fan Spliced Mega Tribute to the Apple Product Lineup

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    Whether you’re an Apple fan or not, this 3.5 minute tribute to the evolution of Apple products is a neat look back at decades of computing history and iconic design. Put together by Apple fan August Brandels, the video splices together Apple commercials and promotional footage from the last 30 years (remixed against the catchy background tune Silhouettes by Avicii) into a mega tribute to the computer giant. If nothing else they should hire the guy to do motivational videos for annual employee meetings. [via Tech Crunch] HTG Explains: How Antivirus Software Works HTG Explains: Why Deleted Files Can Be Recovered and How You Can Prevent It HTG Explains: What Are the Sys Rq, Scroll Lock, and Pause/Break Keys on My Keyboard?

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  • Remove a Digital Camera’s IR Filter for IR Photography on the Cheap

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    Whether you have a DSLR or a point-and-shoot, this simple hack allows you to shoot awesome IR photographs without the expense of a high-quality IR filter (or the accompanying loss of light that comes with using it). How does it work? You’ll need to take apart your camera and remove a single fragile layer of IR blocking glass from the CCD inside the camera body. After doing so, you’ll have a camera that sees infrared light by default, no special add-on filters necessary. Because it sees the IR light without the filters you’ll also skip out on the light loss that occurs with the addition of the add-on IR filter. The downside? You’re altering the camera in permanent and warranty-voiding way. This is most definitely not a hack for your brand new $2,000 DSLR, but it is a really fun hack to try out on an old point and shoot camera or your circa-2004 depreciated DSLR. Hit up the link below to see the process performed on an old Canon point and shoot–we’d strongly recommend searching for a break down guide for your specific camera model before attempting the trick on your own gear. Are You Brave Enough to IR-ize Your Camera [DIY Photography] HTG Explains: How Windows Uses The Task Scheduler for System Tasks HTG Explains: Why Do Hard Drives Show the Wrong Capacity in Windows? Java is Insecure and Awful, It’s Time to Disable It, and Here’s How

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  • The HTG Guide to Using a Bluetooth Keyboard with Your Android Device

    - by Matt Klein
    Android devices aren’t usually associated with physical keyboards. But, since Google is now bundling their QuickOffice app with the newly-released Kit-Kat, it appears inevitable that at least some Android tablets (particularly 10-inch models) will take on more productivity roles. In recent years, physical keyboards have been rendered obsolete by swipe style input methods such as Swype and Google Keyboard. Physical keyboards tend to make phones thick and plump, and that won’t fly today when thin (and even flexible and curved) is in vogue. So, you’ll be hard-pressed to find smartphone manufacturers launching new models with physical keyboards, thus rendering sliders to a past chapter in mobile phone evolution. It makes sense to ditch the clunky keyboard phone in favor of a lighter, thinner model. You’re going to carry around in your pocket or purse all day, why have that extra bulk and weight? That said, there is sound logic behind pairing tablets with keyboards. Microsoft continues to plod forward with its Surface models, and while critics continue to lavish praise on the iPad, its functionality is obviously enhanced and extended when you add a physical keyboard. Apple even has an entire page devoted specifically to iPad-compatible keyboards. But an Android tablet and a keyboard? Does such a thing even exist? They do actually. There are docking keyboards and keyboard/case combinations, there’s the Asus Transformer family, Logitech markets a Windows 8 keyboard that speaks “Android”, and these are just to name a few. So we know that keyboard products that are designed to work with Android exist, but what about an everyday Bluetooth keyboard you might use with Windows or OS X? How-To Geek wanted look at how viable it is to use such a keyboard with Android. We conducted some research and examined some lists of Android keyboard shortcuts. Most of what we found was long outdated. Many of the shortcuts don’t even apply anymore, while others just didn’t work. Regardless, after a little experimentation and a dash of customization, it turns out using a keyboard with Android is kind of fun, and who knows, maybe it will catch on. Setting things up Setting up a Bluetooth keyboard with Android is very easy. First, you’ll need a Bluetooth keyboard and of course an Android device, preferably running version 4.1 (Jelly Bean) or higher. For our test, we paired a second-generation Google Nexus 7 running Android 4.3 with a Samsung Series 7 keyboard. In Android, enable Bluetooth if it isn’t already on. We’d like to note that if you don’t normally use Bluetooth accessories and peripherals with your Android device (or any device really), it’s best practice to leave Bluetooth off because, like GPS, it drains the device’s battery more quickly. To enable Bluetooth, simply go to “Settings” -> “Bluetooth” and tap the slider button to “On”. To set up the keyboard, make sure it is on and then tap “Bluetooth” in the Android settings. On the resulting screen, your Android device should automatically search for and hopefully find your keyboard. If you don’t get it right the first time, simply turn the keyboard on again and then tap “Search for Devices” to try again. If it still doesn’t work, make sure you have fresh batteries and the keyboard isn’t paired to another device. If it is, you will need to unpair it before it will work with your Android device (consult your keyboard manufacturer’s documentation or Google if you don’t know how to do this). When Android finds your keyboard, select it under “Available Devices” … … and you should be prompted to type in a code: If successful, you will see that device is now “Connected” and you’re ready to go. If you want to test things out, try pressing the “Windows” key (“Apple” or “Command”) + ESC, and you will be whisked to your Home screen. So, what can you do? Traditional Mac and Windows users know there’s usually a keyboard shortcut for just about everything (and if there isn’t, there’s all kinds of ways to remap keys to do a variety of commands, tasks, and functions). So where does Android fall in terms of baked-in keyboard commands? There answer to that is kind of enough, but not too much. There are definitely established combos you can use to get around, but they aren’t clear and there doesn’t appear to be any one authority on what they are. Still, there is enough keyboard functionality in Android to make it a viable option, if only for those times when you need to get something done (long e-mail or important document) and an on-screen keyboard simply won’t do. It’s important to remember that Android is, and likely always will be a touch-first interface. That said, it does make some concessions to physical keyboards. In other words, you can get around Android fairly well without having to lift your hands off the keys, but you will still have to tap the screen regularly, unless you add a mouse. For example, you can wake your device by tapping a key rather than pressing its power button. However, if your device is slide or pattern-locked, then you’ll have to use the touchscreen to unlock it – a password or PIN however, works seamlessly with a keyboard – other things like widgets and app controls and features, have to be tapped. You get the idea. Keyboard shortcuts and navigation As we said, baked-in keyboard shortcut combos aren’t necessarily abundant nor apparent. The one thing you can always do is search. Any time you want to Google something, start typing from the Home screen and the search screen will automatically open and begin displaying results. Other than that, here is what we were able to figure out: ESC = go back CTRL + ESC = menu CTRL + ALT + DEL = restart (no questions asked) ALT + SPACE = search page (say “OK Google” to voice search) ALT + TAB (ALT + SHIFT + TAB) = switch tasks Also, if you have designated volume function keys, those will probably work too. There’s also some dedicated app shortcuts like calculator, Gmail, and a few others: CMD + A = calculator CMD + C = contacts CMD + E = e-mail CMD + G = Gmail CMD + L = Calendar CMD + P = Play Music CMD + Y = YouTube Overall, it’s not a long comprehensive list and there’s no dedicated keyboard combos for the full array of Google’s products. Granted, it’s hard to imagine getting a lot of mileage out of a keyboard with Maps but with something like Keep, you could type out long, detailed lists on your tablet, and then view them on your smartphone when you go out shopping. You can also use the arrow keys to navigate your Home screen over shortcuts and open the app drawer. When something on the screen is selected, it will be highlighted in blue. Press “Enter” to open your selection. Additionally, if an app has its own set of shortcuts, e.g. Gmail has quite a few unique shortcuts to it, as does Chrome, some – though not many – will work in Android (not for YouTube though). Also, many “universal” shortcuts such as Copy (CTRL + C), Cut (CTRL + X), Paste (CTRL + V), and Select All (CTRL + A) work where needed – such as in instant messaging, e-mail, social media apps, etc. Creating custom application shortcuts What about custom shortcuts? When we were researching this article, we were under the impression that it was possible to assign keyboard combinations to specific apps, such as you could do on older Android versions such as Gingerbread. This no long seems to be the case and nowhere in “Settings” could we find a way to assign hotkey combos to any of our favorite, oft-used apps or functions. If you do want custom keyboard shortcuts, what can you do? Luckily, there’s an app on Google Play that allows you to, among other things, create custom app shortcuts. It is called External Keyboard Helper (EKH) and while there is a free demo version, the pay version is only a few bucks. We decided to give EKH a whirl and through a little experimentation and finally reading the developer’s how-to, we found we could map custom keyboard combos to just about anything. To do this, first open the application and you’ll see the main app screen. Don’t worry about choosing a custom layout or anything like that, you want to go straight to the “Advanced settings”: In the “Advanced settings” select “Application shortcuts” to continue: You can have up to 16 custom application shortcuts. We are going to create a custom shortcut to the Facebook app. We choose “A0”, and from the resulting list, Facebook. You can do this for any number of apps, services, and settings. As you can now see, the Facebook app has now been linked to application-zero (A0): Go back to the “Advanced settings” and choose “Customize keyboard mappings”: You will be prompted to create a custom keyboard layout so we choose “Custom 1”: When you choose to create a custom layout, you can do a great many more things with your keyboard. For example, many keyboards have predefined function (Fn) keys, which you can map to your tablet’s brightness controls, toggle WiFi on/off, and much more. A word of advice, the application automatically remaps certain keys when you create a custom layout. This might mess up some existing keyboard combos. If you simply want to add some functionality to your keyboard, you can go ahead and delete EKH’s default changes and start your custom layout from scratch. To create a new combo, select “Add new key mapping”: For our new shortcut, we are going to assign the Facebook app to open when we key in “ALT + F”. To do this, we press the “F” key while in the “Scancode” field and we see it returns a value of “33”. If we wanted to use a different key, we can press “Change” and scan another key’s numerical value. We now want to assign the “ALT” key to application “A0”, previously designated as the Facebook app. In the “AltGr” field, we enter “A0” and then “Save” our custom combo. And now we see our new application shortcut. Now, as long as we’re using our custom layout, every time we press “ALT + F”, the Facebook app will launch: External Keyboard Helper extends far beyond simple application shortcuts and if you are looking for deeper keyboard customization options, you should definitely check it out. Among other things, EKH also supports dozens of languages, allows you to quickly switch between layouts using a key or combo, add up to 16 custom text shortcuts, and much more! It can be had on Google Play for $2.53 for the full version, but you can try the demo version for free. More extensive documentation on how to use the app is also available. Android? Keyboard? Sure, why not? Unlike traditional desktop operating systems, you don’t need a physical keyboard and mouse to use a mobile operating system. You can buy an iPad or Nexus 10 or Galaxy Note, and never need another accessory or peripheral – they work as intended right out of the box. It’s even possible you can write the next great American novel on one these devices, though that might require a lot of practice and patience. That said, using a keyboard with Android is kind of fun. It’s not revelatory but it does elevate the experience. You don’t even need to add customizations (though they are nice) because there are enough existing keyboard shortcuts in Android to make it usable. Plus, when it comes to inputting text such as in an editor or terminal application, we fully advocate big, physical keyboards. Bottom line, if you’re looking for a way to enhance your Android tablet, give a keyboard a chance. Do you use your Android device for productivity? Is a physical keyboard an important part of your setup? Do you have any shortcuts that we missed? Sound off in the comments and let us know what you think.     

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  • Potentially The World’s Filthiest PC [Video]

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    We’re confident we’ve seen some dusty PC cases in our day, but nothing we’ve ever cleaned produced the sheer volume of smoke-bomb like dust this neglected tower spews out. That noise you hear, about 1:15 into the video, is the sound of the compressor motor kicking back on to top off the pressure tank: behold, a PC so filthy the compressor cleaning it out needs to take a break! [via Geeks Are Sexy] HTG Explains: Why Linux Doesn’t Need Defragmenting How to Convert News Feeds to Ebooks with Calibre How To Customize Your Wallpaper with Google Image Searches, RSS Feeds, and More

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  • My new laptop - with a really nice battery option

    - by Rob Farley
    It was about time I got a new laptop, and so I made a phone-call to Dell to discuss my options. I decided not to get an SSD from them, because I’d rather choose one myself – the sales guy tells me that changing the HD doesn’t void my warranty, so that’s good (incidentally, I’d love to hear people’s recommendations for which SSD to get for my laptop). Unfortunately this machine only has one HD slot, but I figure that I’ll put lots of stuff onto external disks anyway. The machine I got was a Dell Studio XPS 16. It’s red (which suits my company), but also has the Intel® Core™ i7-820QM Processor, which is 4 Cores/8 Threads. Makes for a pretty Task Manager, but nothing like the one I saw at SQLBits last year (at 96 cores), or the one that my good friend James Rowland-Jones writes about here. But the reason for this post is actually something in the software that comes with the machine – you know, the stuff that most people uninstall at the earliest opportunity. I had just reinstalled the operating system, and was going through the utilities to get the drivers up-to-date, when I noticed that one of Dell applications included an option to disable battery charging. So I installed it. And sure enough, I can tell the battery not to charge now. Clearly Dell see it as a temporary option, and one that’s designed for when you’re on a plane. But for me, I most often use my laptop with the power plugged in, which means I don’t need to have my battery continually topping itself up. So I really love this option, but I feel like it could go a little further. I’d like “Not Charging” to be the default option, and let me set it when I want to charge it (which should theoretically make my battery last longer). I also intend to work out how this option works, so that I can script it and put it into my StartUp options (so it can be the Default setting). Actually – if someone has already worked this out and can tell me what it does, then please feel free to let me know. Even better would be an external switch. I had a switch on my old laptop (a Dell Latitude) for WiFi, so that I could turn that off before I turned on the computer (this laptop doesn’t give me that option – no physical switch for flight mode). I guess it just means I’ll get used to leaving the WiFi off by default, and turning it on when I want it – might save myself some battery power that way too. Soon I’ll need to take the plunge and sync my iPhone with the new laptop. I’m a little worried that I might lose something – Apple’s messages about how my stuff will be wiped and replaced with what’s on the PC doesn’t fill me with confidence, as it’s a new PC that doesn’t have stuff on it. But having a new machine is definitely a nice experience, and one that I can recommend. I’m sure when I get around to buying an SSD I’ll feel like it’s shiny and new all over again! Share this post: email it! | bookmark it! | digg it! | reddit! | kick it! | live it!

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  • How to remove the “AMD Testing use only” watermark from Ubuntu 12.10

    - by Lucio
    I've installed the latest catalyst driver (beta) following the step in this guide for Ubuntu Quantal Quetzal. My system is 64 bit and my graphic card is an ATI RadeonHD 6670, this g.c. is Officially Supported (Catalyst & Open Source), you can confirm that from this AMD Linux Community thread. I don't have any problem, except the AMD testing use only watermark. I see the following frame in any stage into the OS (logged, unlloged, etc.) except in the terminals. I found different versions of how to remove this image, but this change according to the system, so I want an answer from this popular (trusted) site. How to solve this issue in Ubuntu 12.10 32b? This procedure is different in a 64b system?

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  • USB mouse does not work on boot

    - by Uku Loskit
    My problem is pretty much a duplicate of the one described in USB mouse late to load , but the solution there has not worked for me. I'm running the same OS and experiencing the exact same issue. It disappears after 10 seconds or so. Booting with the options specified in the other question did not fix it :/ Thanks in advance. sheepz@sheepz-desktop:~$ dmesg | egrep "hci|usb" [ 0.188000] usbcore: registered new interface driver usbfs [ 0.188000] usbcore: registered new interface driver hub [ 0.188000] usbcore: registered new device driver usb [ 0.358613] ehci_hcd: USB 2.0 'Enhanced' Host Controller (EHCI) Driver [ 0.358627] ohci_hcd: USB 1.1 'Open' Host Controller (OHCI) Driver [ 0.358637] uhci_hcd: USB Universal Host Controller Interface driver [ 0.358683] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.0: PCI INT A -> GSI 23 (level, low) -> IRQ 23 [ 0.358691] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.0: setting latency timer to 64 [ 0.358695] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.0: UHCI Host Controller [ 0.358726] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.0: new USB bus registered, assigned bus number 1 [ 0.358758] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.0: irq 23, io base 0x0000e100 [ 0.358927] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.1: PCI INT B -> GSI 19 (level, low) -> IRQ 19 [ 0.358932] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.1: setting latency timer to 64 [ 0.358935] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.1: UHCI Host Controller [ 0.358964] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.1: new USB bus registered, assigned bus number 2 [ 0.358991] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.1: irq 19, io base 0x0000e200 [ 0.359132] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.2: PCI INT C -> GSI 18 (level, low) -> IRQ 18 [ 0.359137] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.2: setting latency timer to 64 [ 0.359139] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.2: UHCI Host Controller [ 0.359165] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.2: new USB bus registered, assigned bus number 3 [ 0.359193] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.2: irq 18, io base 0x0000e300 [ 0.359327] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.3: PCI INT D -> GSI 16 (level, low) -> IRQ 16 [ 0.359332] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.3: setting latency timer to 64 [ 0.359334] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.3: UHCI Host Controller [ 0.359360] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.3: new USB bus registered, assigned bus number 4 [ 0.359387] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.3: irq 16, io base 0x0000e400 [ 0.731933] usb 1-1: new full speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address 2 [ 1.023859] usb 1-2: new full speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address 3 [ 16.136175] usb 1-2: device descriptor read/64, error -110 [ 31.352481] usb 1-2: device descriptor read/64, error -110 [ 31.568485] usb 1-2: new full speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address 4 [ 46.680794] usb 1-2: device descriptor read/64, error -110 [ 61.903555] usb 1-2: device descriptor read/64, error -110 [ 62.119671] usb 1-2: new full speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address 5 [ 72.541078] usb 1-2: device not accepting address 5, error -110 [ 72.653194] usb 1-2: new full speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address 6 [ 83.066637] usb 1-2: device not accepting address 6, error -110 [ 83.178615] usb 3-1: new low speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address 2 [ 83.562546] usbcore: registered new interface driver hiddev [ 83.578827] input: Logitech USB-PS/2 Optical Mouse as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:1d.2/usb3/3-1/3-1:1.0/input/input3 [ 83.579016] generic-usb 0003:046D:C01D.0001: input,hidraw0: USB HID v1.10 Mouse [Logitech USB-PS/2 Optical Mouse] on usb-0000:00:1d.2-1/input0 [ 83.579244] usbcore: registered new interface driver usbhid [ 83.579246] usbhid: USB HID core driver [114025.224407] usb 3-1: USB disconnect, address 2 sheepz@sheepz-desktop:~$ dmesg | egrep "hci|usb" [ 0.188000] usbcore: registered new interface driver usbfs [ 0.188000] usbcore: registered new interface driver hub [ 0.188000] usbcore: registered new device driver usb [ 0.358613] ehci_hcd: USB 2.0 'Enhanced' Host Controller (EHCI) Driver [ 0.358627] ohci_hcd: USB 1.1 'Open' Host Controller (OHCI) Driver [ 0.358637] uhci_hcd: USB Universal Host Controller Interface driver [ 0.358683] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.0: PCI INT A -> GSI 23 (level, low) -> IRQ 23 [ 0.358691] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.0: setting latency timer to 64 [ 0.358695] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.0: UHCI Host Controller [ 0.358726] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.0: new USB bus registered, assigned bus number 1 [ 0.358758] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.0: irq 23, io base 0x0000e100 [ 0.358927] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.1: PCI INT B -> GSI 19 (level, low) -> IRQ 19 [ 0.358932] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.1: setting latency timer to 64 [ 0.358935] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.1: UHCI Host Controller [ 0.358964] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.1: new USB bus registered, assigned bus number 2 [ 0.358991] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.1: irq 19, io base 0x0000e200 [ 0.359132] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.2: PCI INT C -> GSI 18 (level, low) -> IRQ 18 [ 0.359137] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.2: setting latency timer to 64 [ 0.359139] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.2: UHCI Host Controller [ 0.359165] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.2: new USB bus registered, assigned bus number 3 [ 0.359193] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.2: irq 18, io base 0x0000e300 [ 0.359327] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.3: PCI INT D -> GSI 16 (level, low) -> IRQ 16 [ 0.359332] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.3: setting latency timer to 64 [ 0.359334] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.3: UHCI Host Controller [ 0.359360] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.3: new USB bus registered, assigned bus number 4 [ 0.359387] uhci_hcd 0000:00:1d.3: irq 16, io base 0x0000e400 [ 0.731933] usb 1-1: new full speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address 2 [ 1.023859] usb 1-2: new full speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address 3 [ 16.136175] usb 1-2: device descriptor read/64, error -110 [ 31.352481] usb 1-2: device descriptor read/64, error -110 [ 31.568485] usb 1-2: new full speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address 4 [ 46.680794] usb 1-2: device descriptor read/64, error -110 [ 61.903555] usb 1-2: device descriptor read/64, error -110 [ 62.119671] usb 1-2: new full speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address 5 [ 72.541078] usb 1-2: device not accepting address 5, error -110 [ 72.653194] usb 1-2: new full speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address 6 [ 83.066637] usb 1-2: device not accepting address 6, error -110 [ 83.178615] usb 3-1: new low speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address 2 [ 83.562546] usbcore: registered new interface driver hiddev [ 83.578827] input: Logitech USB-PS/2 Optical Mouse as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:1d.2/usb3/3-1/3-1:1.0/input/input3 [ 83.579016] generic-usb 0003:046D:C01D.0001: input,hidraw0: USB HID v1.10 Mouse [Logitech USB-PS/2 Optical Mouse] on usb-0000:00:1d.2-1/input0 [ 83.579244] usbcore: registered new interface driver usbhid [ 83.579246] usbhid: USB HID core driver

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  • HTG Explains: Why is Printer Ink So Expensive?

    - by Chris Hoffman
    Printer ink is expensive, more expensive per drop than fine champagne or even human blood. If you haven’t gone paperless, you’ll notice that you’re paying a lot for new ink cartridges — more than seems reasonable. Purchasing the cheapest inkjet printer and buying official ink cartridge replacements is the most expensive thing you can do. There are ways to save money on ink if you must continue to print documents. Cheap Printers, Expensive Ink Ink jet printers are often very cheap. That’s because they’re sold at cost, or even at a loss — the manufacturer either makes no profit from the printer itself or loses money. The manufacturer will make most of its money from the printer cartridges you buy later. Even if the company does make a bit of money from each printer sold, it makes a much larger profit margin on ink. Rather than selling you a printer that may be rather expensive, they want to sell you a cheap printer and make money on an ongoing basis by providing expensive printer ink. It’s been compared to the razor model — sell a razor cheaply and mark up the razor blades. Rather than making a one-time profit on the razor, you’ll make continuing profit as the customer keeps buying razor blade replacements — or ink, in this case. Many printer manufacturers go out of their way to make it difficult for you to use unofficial ink cartridges, building microchips into their official ink cartridges. If you use an unofficial cartridge or refill an official cartridge, the printer may refuse to use it. Lexmark once argued in court that unofficial microchips that enable third-party ink cartridges would violate their copyright and Lexmark has argued that creating an unofficial microchip to bypass this restriction on third-party ink would violate Lexmark’s copyright and be illegal under the US DMCA. Luckily, they lost this argument. What Printer Companies Say Printer companies have put forth their own arguments in the past, attempting to justify the high cost of official ink cartridges and microchips that block any competition. In a Computer World story from 2010, HP argued that they spend a billion dollars each year on “ink research and development.” They point out that printer ink “must be formulated to withstand heating to 300 degrees, vaporization, and being squirted at 30 miles per hour, at a rate of 36,000 drops per second, through a nozzle one third the size of a human hair. After all that it must dry almost instantly on the paper.” They also argue that printers have become more efficient and use less ink to print, while third-party cartridges are less reliable. Companies that use microchips in their ink cartridges argue that only the microchip has the ability to enforce an expiration date, preventing consumers from using old ink cartridges. There’s something to all these arguments, sure — but they don’t seem to justify the sky-high cost of printer ink or the restriction on using third-party or refilled cartridges. Saving Money on Printing Ultimately, the price of something is what people are willing to pay and printer companies have found that most consumers are willing to pay this much for ink cartridge replacements. Try not to fall for it: Don’t buy the cheapest inkjet printer. Consider your needs when buying a printer and do some research. You’ll save more money in the long run. Consider these basic tips to save money on printing: Buy Refilled Cartridges: Refilled cartridges from third parties are generally much cheaper. Printer companies warn us away from these, but they often work very well. Refill Your Own Cartridges: You can get do-it-yourself kits for refilling your own printer ink cartridges, but this can be messy. Your printer may refuse to accept a refilled cartridge if the cartridge contains a microchip. Switch to a Laser Printer: Laser printers use toner, not ink cartridges. If you print a lot of black and white documents, a laser printer can be cheaper. Buy XL Cartridges: If you are buying official printer ink cartridges, spend more money each time. The cheapest ink cartridges won’t contain much ink at all, while larger “XL” ink cartridges will contain much more ink for only a bit more money. It’s often cheaper to buy in bulk. Avoid Printers With Tri-Color Ink Cartridges: If you’re printing color documents, you’ll want to get a printer that uses separate ink cartridges for all its colors. For example, let’s say your printer has a “Color” cartridge that contains blue, green, and red ink. If you print a lot of blue documents and use up all your blue ink, the Color cartridge will refuse to function — now all you can do is throw away your cartridge and buy a new one, even if the green and red ink chambers are full. If you had a printer with separate color cartridges, you’d just have to replace the blue cartridge. If you’ll be buying official ink cartridges, be sure to compare the cost of cartridges when buying a printer. The cheapest printer may be more expensive in the long run. Of course, you’ll save the most money if you stop printing entirely and go paperless, keeping digital copies of your documents instead of paper ones. Image Credit: Cliva Darra on Flickr     

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  • Intel Xeon 5600 (Westmere-EP) and AMD Magny-Cours Performance Update

    - by jchang
    HP has just released TPC-C and TPC-E results for the ProLiant DL380G7 with 2 Xeon 5680 3.33GHz 6-core processor, allowing a direct comparison with their DL385G& with 2 Opteron 6176 2.3GHz 12-core processors. Last month I complained about the lack of performance results for the Intel Xeon 5600 6-core 32nm processor line for 2-way systems. This might have been deliberate to not complicate the message for the Xeon 7500 8-core 45nm (for 4-way+ systems) launch two weeks later. http://sqlblog.com/blogs/joe_chang/archive/2010/04/07/intel-xeon-5600-westmere-ep-and-7500-nehalem-ex.aspx...(read more)

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  • Why is Star Craft II lagging with these specs? [closed]

    - by Kev
    17.3" FULL HD (1920X1080) LED LCD w/nVIDIA GeForce® GT 425M w/1GB GDDR3 + Intel GMA HD4500 i also got the 640m core i7, i have 8 gb ram but for some damn reason, when there is a batle in progress it appears as if my graphics card or something is not powerful enough, shouldn't these specs be more than enough to handle star craft II? what could i do to improve my laptop? i also got the 64 bit os

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  • Ubuntu 10.04 - unable to install Arduino

    - by Newbie
    Hello! At the moment, I try to install Arduino on my Ubuntu 10.04 (32 Bit) computer. I downloaded the latest release at http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software, cd'ed to the directory and unziped the package. When I try to run ./arduino , I get following error: Exception in thread "main" java.lang.ExceptionInInitializerError at processing.app.Base.main(Base.java:112) Caused by: java.awt.HeadlessException at sun.awt.HeadlessToolkit.getMenuShortcutKeyMask(HeadlessToolkit.java:231) at processing.core.PApplet.<clinit>(Unknown Source) ... 1 more Here is my java -version output: java version "1.6.0_20" OpenJDK Runtime Environment (IcedTea6 1.9.5) (6b20-1.9.5-0ubuntu1~10.04.1) OpenJDK Server VM (build 19.0-b09, mixed mode) Any suggestions on this? I try to install arduino without the 'arduino' package. I tried to install it with apt-get (sudo apt-get install arduino). When I try to start arduino (using arduino command) will cause following error: Exception in thread "main" java.lang.ExceptionInInitializerError at processing.app.Preferences.load(Preferences.java:553) at processing.app.Preferences.load(Preferences.java:549) at processing.app.Preferences.init(Preferences.java:142) at processing.app.Base.main(Base.java:188) Caused by: java.awt.HeadlessException at sun.awt.HeadlessToolkit.getMenuShortcutKeyMask(HeadlessToolkit.java:231) at processing.core.PApplet.<clinit>(PApplet.java:224) ... 4 more Update: I saw that I installed several versions of jre (sun and open). So I uninstalled the open jre. Now, when calling arduino I get a new error: java.lang.UnsatisfiedLinkError: no rxtxSerial in java.library.path thrown while loading gnu.io.RXTXCommDriver Exception in thread "main" java.lang.UnsatisfiedLinkError: no rxtxSerial in java.library.path at java.lang.ClassLoader.loadLibrary(ClassLoader.java:1734) at java.lang.Runtime.loadLibrary0(Runtime.java:823) at java.lang.System.loadLibrary(System.java:1028) at gnu.io.CommPortIdentifier.<clinit>(CommPortIdentifier.java:123) at processing.app.Editor.populateSerialMenu(Editor.java:965) at processing.app.Editor.buildToolsMenu(Editor.java:717) at processing.app.Editor.buildMenuBar(Editor.java:502) at processing.app.Editor.<init>(Editor.java:194) at processing.app.Base.handleOpen(Base.java:698) at processing.app.Base.handleOpen(Base.java:663) at processing.app.Base.handleNew(Base.java:578) at processing.app.Base.<init>(Base.java:318) at processing.app.Base.main(Base.java:207)

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  • Intel Xeon 5600 (Westmere-EP) and 7500 (Nehalem-EX)

    - by jchang
    Intel Xeon 5600 (Westmere-EP) and 7500 (Nehalem-EX) Performance Intel launched the Xeon 5600 series (Westmere-EP, 32nm) six-core processors on 16 March 2010 without any TPC benchmark results. In the performance world, no results almost always mean bad or not good results. Yet there is every reason to believe that the Xeon 5600 series with six-cores (X models only) will performance exactly as expected for a 50% increase in the number of cores at the same frequency (as the 5500) with no system level...(read more)

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  • HTG Explains: Do Non-Windows Platforms Like Mac, Android, iOS, and Linux Get Viruses?

    - by Chris Hoffman
    Viruses and other types of malware seem largely confined to Windows in the real world. Even on a Windows 8 PC, you can still get infected with malware. But how vulnerable are other operating systems to malware? When we say “viruses,” we’re actually talking about malware in general. There’s more to malware than just viruses, although the word virus is often used to talk about malware in general. Why Are All the Viruses For Windows? Not all of the malware out there is for Windows, but most of it is. We’ve tried to cover why Windows has the most viruses in the past. Windows’ popularity is definitely a big factor, but there are other reasons, too. Historically, Windows was never designed for security in the way that UNIX-like platforms were — and every popular operating system that’s not Windows is based on UNIX. Windows also has a culture of installing software by searching the web and downloading it from websites, whereas other platforms have app stores and Linux has centralized software installation from a secure source in the form of its package managers. Do Macs Get Viruses? The vast majority of malware is designed for Windows systems and Macs don’t get Windows malware. While Mac malware is much more rare, Macs are definitely not immune to malware. They can be infected by malware written specifically for Macs, and such malware does exist. At one point, over 650,000 Macs were infected with the Flashback Trojan. [Source] It infected Macs through the Java browser plugin, which is a security nightmare on every platform. Macs no longer include Java by default. Apple also has locked down Macs in other ways. Three things in particular help: Mac App Store: Rather than getting desktop programs from the web and possibly downloading malware, as inexperienced users might on Windows, they can get their applications from a secure place. It’s similar to a smartphone app store or even a Linux package manager. Gatekeeper: Current releases of Mac OS X use Gatekeeper, which only allows programs to run if they’re signed by an approved developer or if they’re from the Mac App Store. This can be disabled by geeks who need to run unsigned software, but it acts as additional protection for typical users. XProtect: Macs also have a built-in technology known as XProtect, or File Quarantine. This feature acts as a blacklist, preventing known-malicious programs from running. It functions similarly to Windows antivirus programs, but works in the background and checks applications you download. Mac malware isn’t coming out nearly as quick as Windows malware, so it’s easier for Apple to keep up. Macs are certainly not immune to all malware, and someone going out of their way to download pirated applications and disable security features may find themselves infected. But Macs are much less at risk of malware in the real world. Android is Vulnerable to Malware, Right? Android malware does exist and companies that produce Android security software would love to sell you their Android antivirus apps. But that isn’t the full picture. By default, Android devices are configured to only install apps from Google Play. They also benefit from antimalware scanning — Google Play itself scans apps for malware. You could disable this protection and go outside Google Play, getting apps from elsewhere (“sideloading”). Google will still help you if you do this, asking if you want to scan your sideloaded apps for malware when you try to install them. In China, where many, many Android devices are in use, there is no Google Play Store. Chinese Android users don’t benefit from Google’s antimalware scanning and have to get their apps from third-party app stores, which may contain infected copies of apps. The majority of Android malware comes from outside Google Play. The scary malware statistics you see primarily include users who get apps from outside Google Play, whether it’s pirating infected apps or acquiring them from untrustworthy app stores. As long as you get your apps from Google Play — or even another secure source, like the Amazon App Store — your Android phone or tablet should be secure. What About iPads and iPhones? Apple’s iOS operating system, used on its iPads, iPhones, and iPod Touches, is more locked down than even Macs and Android devices. iPad and iPhone users are forced to get their apps from Apple’s App Store. Apple is more demanding of developers than Google is — while anyone can upload an app to Google Play and have it available instantly while Google does some automated scanning, getting an app onto Apple’s App Store involves a manual review of that app by an Apple employee. The locked-down environment makes it much more difficult for malware to exist. Even if a malicious application could be installed, it wouldn’t be able to monitor what you typed into your browser and capture your online-banking information without exploiting a deeper system vulnerability. Of course, iOS devices aren’t perfect either. Researchers have proven it’s possible to create malicious apps and sneak them past the app store review process. [Source] However, if a malicious app was discovered, Apple could pull it from the store and immediately uninstall it from all devices. Google and Microsoft have this same ability with Android’s Google Play and Windows Store for new Windows 8-style apps. Does Linux Get Viruses? Malware authors don’t tend to target Linux desktops, as so few average users use them. Linux desktop users are more likely to be geeks that won’t fall for obvious tricks. As with Macs, Linux users get most of their programs from a single place — the package manager — rather than downloading them from websites. Linux also can’t run Windows software natively, so Windows viruses just can’t run. Linux desktop malware is extremely rare, but it does exist. The recent “Hand of Thief” Trojan supports a variety of Linux distributions and desktop environments, running in the background and stealing online banking information. It doesn’t have a good way if infecting Linux systems, though — you’d have to download it from a website or receive it as an email attachment and run the Trojan. [Source] This just confirms how important it is to only run trusted software on any platform, even supposedly secure ones. What About Chromebooks? Chromebooks are locked down laptops that only run the Chrome web browser and some bits around it. We’re not really aware of any form of Chrome OS malware. A Chromebook’s sandbox helps protect it against malware, but it also helps that Chromebooks aren’t very common yet. It would still be possible to infect a Chromebook, if only by tricking a user into installing a malicious browser extension from outside the Chrome web store. The malicious browser extension could run in the background, steal your passwords and online banking credentials, and send it over the web. Such malware could even run on Windows, Mac, and Linux versions of Chrome, but it would appear in the Extensions list, would require the appropriate permissions, and you’d have to agree to install it manually. And Windows RT? Microsoft’s Windows RT only runs desktop programs written by Microsoft. Users can only install “Windows 8-style apps” from the Windows Store. This means that Windows RT devices are as locked down as an iPad — an attacker would have to get a malicious app into the store and trick users into installing it or possibly find a security vulnerability that allowed them to bypass the protection. Malware is definitely at its worst on Windows. This would probably be true even if Windows had a shining security record and a history of being as secure as other operating systems, but you can definitely avoid a lot of malware just by not using Windows. Of course, no platform is a perfect malware-free environment. You should exercise some basic precautions everywhere. Even if malware was eliminated, we’d have to deal with social-engineering attacks like phishing emails asking for credit card numbers. Image Credit: stuartpilbrow on Flickr, Kansir on Flickr     

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  • What Is the Purpose of the “Do Not Cover This Hole” Hole on Hard Drives?

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    From tiny laptop hard drives to beefier desktop models, traditional disk-based hard drives have a very bold warning on them: DO NOT COVER THIS HOLE. What exactly is the hole and what terrible fate would befall you if you covered it? Today’s Question & Answer session comes to us courtesy of SuperUser—a subdivision of Stack Exchange, a community-drive grouping of Q&A web sites. How Hackers Can Disguise Malicious Programs With Fake File Extensions Can Dust Actually Damage My Computer? What To Do If You Get a Virus on Your Computer

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  • Z600 Workstation ACPI Fan Noise

    - by dpb
    Hi -- I have an HP z600 workstation that has the FAN running full when idle. In fact, after the boot, the fan never slows down or varies. I looked in dmesg, and noticed this: [ 1.516778] ACPI Error (dsfield-0143): [CAPD] Namespace lookup failure, AE_ALREADY_EXISTS [ 1.516781] ACPI Error (psparse-0537): Method parse/execution failed [\_SB_.PCI0._OSC] (Node ffff8801b8c4e3e0), AE_ALREADY_EXISTS [ 1.516786] ACPI: Marking method _OSC as Serialized because of AE_ALREADY_EXISTS error [ 1.519868] ACPI Error (dsfield-0143): [CAPD] Namespace lookup failure, AE_ALREADY_EXISTS [ 1.519872] ACPI Error (psparse-0537): Method parse/execution failed [\_SB_.PCI0._OSC] (Node ffff8801b8c4e3e0), AE_ALREADY_EXISTS [ 1.624638] ACPI Error (dsfield-0143): [CAPD] Namespace lookup failure, AE_ALREADY_EXISTS [ 1.624642] ACPI Error (psparse-0537): Method parse/execution failed [\_SB_.PCI0._OSC] (Node ffff8801b8c4e3e0), AE_ALREADY_EXISTS [ 1.624726] ACPI Error (dsfield-0143): [CAPD] Namespace lookup failure, AE_ALREADY_EXISTS [ 1.624729] ACPI Error (psparse-0537): Method parse/execution failed [\_SB_.PCI0._OSC] (Node ffff8801b8c4e3e0), AE_ALREADY_EXISTS [ 1.624802] ACPI Error (dsfield-0143): [CAPD] Namespace lookup failure, AE_ALREADY_EXISTS [ 1.624805] ACPI Error (psparse-0537): Method parse/execution failed [\_SB_.PCI0._OSC] (Node ffff8801b8c4e3e0), AE_ALREADY_EXISTS [ 1.624895] ACPI Error (dsfield-0143): [CAPD] Namespace lookup failure, AE_ALREADY_EXISTS [ 1.624898] ACPI Error (psparse-0537): Method parse/execution failed [\_SB_.PCI0._OSC] (Node ffff8801b8c4e3e0), AE_ALREADY_EXISTS [ 1.624977] ACPI Error (dsfield-0143): [CAPD] Namespace lookup failure, AE_ALREADY_EXISTS [ 1.624981] ACPI Error (psparse-0537): Method parse/execution failed [\_SB_.PCI0._OSC] (Node ffff8801b8c4e3e0), AE_ALREADY_EXISTS [ 1.625070] ACPI Error (dsfield-0143): [CAPD] Namespace lookup failure, AE_ALREADY_EXISTS [ 1.625074] ACPI Error (psparse-0537): Method parse/execution failed [\_SB_.PCI0._OSC] (Node ffff8801b8c4e3e0), AE_ALREADY_EXISTS [ 1.625153] ACPI Error (dsfield-0143): [CAPD] Namespace lookup failure, AE_ALREADY_EXISTS [ 1.625157] ACPI Error (psparse-0537): Method parse/execution failed [\_SB_.PCI0._OSC] (Node ffff8801b8c4e3e0), AE_ALREADY_EXISTS Anyone know what could be done to fix this?

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  • CMUS Error: opening audio device: No such device

    - by clamp
    I cant seem to play any audio with CMUS because it always gives the above error the output of lspci -v | grep -A7 -i "audio" gives 00:1b.0 Audio device: Intel Corporation NM10/ICH7 Family High Definition Audio Controller (rev 02) Subsystem: ASRock Incorporation Device c892 Flags: bus master, fast devsel, latency 0, IRQ 49 Memory at dff00000 (64-bit, non-prefetchable) [size=16K] Capabilities: Kernel driver in use: snd_hda_intel 00:1c.0 PCI bridge: Intel Corporation NM10/ICH7 Family PCI Express Port 1 (rev 02) (prog-if 00 [Normal decode]) what could be the problem?

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  • Which GPU with my CPU for 1080p flash?

    - by oshirowanen
    Based on the following site: http://www.adobe.com/products/flashplayer/systemreqs/ I need the following minimum spec to play 1080p flash video via a browser: CPU: 1.8GHz Intel Core Duo, AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+, or faster processor RAM: 512MB of RAM GPU: 64MB of graphics memory I only have a 2.8GHz Pentium 4 process which is no where near as good as the processor listed above. I don't want to upgrade my processor as I think it will mean I have to change the motherboard etc. So, my question is, what is the cheapest PCI-E GPU I can buy which will allow me to play smooth 1080p flash video via a browser. I think the cheapest I can get is the 8400GS, but am not sure if that will be able to handle 1080p with the processor I have. I have looked at the GT520 and was wondering if this is the cheapest GPU which I need, or if there is something cheaper which will do 1080p with a 2.8GHz Pentium 4. Or, will I have to get something better than a GT520?

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  • IBM System x3850 X5 TPC-H Benchmark

    - by jchang
    IBM just published a TPC-H SF 1000 result for their x3850 X5 , 4-way Xeon 7560 system featuring a special MAX5 memory expansion board to support 1.5TB memory. In Dec 2010, IBM also published a TPC-H SF1000 for their Power 780 system, 8-way, quad-core, (4 logical processors per physical core). In Feb 2011, Ingres published a TPC-H SF 100 on a 2-way Xeon 5680 for their VectorWise column-store engine (plus enhancements for memory architecture, SIMD and compression). The figure table below shows TPC-H...(read more)

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  • 6 Things You Shouldn’t Do With Solid-State Drives

    - by Chris Hoffman
    Solid-state drives are different from the mechanical, magnetic hard drives in wide use. Many of the things you’ve done with typical mechanical hard drives shouldn’t be done with newer solid-state drives. Solid-state drives are presented by the operating system the same way mechanical drives are, but they work differently. If you’re a geek, knowing what you shouldn’t do is important.    

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  • How to Buy an SD Card: Speed Classes, Sizes, and Capacities Explained

    - by Chris Hoffman
    Memory cards are used in digital cameras, music players, smartphones, tablets, and even laptops. But not all SD cards are created equal — there are different speed classes, physical sizes, and capacities to consider. Different devices require different types of SD cards. Here are the differences you’ll need to keep in mind when picking out the right SD card for your device. Speed Class In a nutshell, not all SD cards offer the same speeds. This matters for some tasks more than it matters for others. For example, if you’re a professional photographer taking photos in rapid succession on a DSLR camera saving them in high-resolution RAW format, you’ll want a fast SD card so your camera can save them as fast as possible. A fast SD card is also important if you want to record high-resolution video and save it directly to the SD card. If you’re just taking a few photos on a typical consumer camera or you’re just using an SD card to store some media files on your smartphone, the speed isn’t as important. Manufacturers use “speed classes” to measure an SD card’s speed. The SD Association that defines the SD card standard doesn’t actually define the exact speeds associated with these classes, but they do provide guidelines. There are four different speed classes — 10, 8, 4, and 2. 10 is the fastest, while 2 is the slowest. Class 2 is suitable for standard definition video recording, while classes 4 and 6 are suitable for high-definition video recording. Class 10 is suitable for “full HD video recording” and “HD still consecutive recording.” There are also two Ultra High Speed (UHS) speed classes, but they’re more expensive and are designed for professional use. UHS cards are designed for devices that support UHS. Here are the associated logos, in order from slowest to fastest:       You’ll probably be okay with a class 4 or 6 card for typical use in a digital camera, smartphone, or tablet. Class 10 cards are ideal if you’re shooting high-resolution videos or RAW photos. Class 2 cards are a bit on the slow side these days, so you may want to avoid them for all but the cheapest digital cameras. Even a cheap smartphone can record HD video, after all. An SD card’s speed class is identified on the SD card itself. You’ll also see the speed class on the online store listing or on the card’s packaging when purchasing it. For example, in the below photo, the middle SD card is speed class 4, while the two other cards are speed class 6. If you see no speed class symbol, you have a class 0 SD card. These cards were designed and produced before the speed class rating system was introduced. They may be slower than even a class 2 card. Physical Size Different devices use different sizes of SD cards. You’ll find standard-size CD cards, miniSD cards, and microSD cards. Standard SD cards are the largest, although they’re still very small. They measure 32x24x2.1 mm and weigh just two grams. Most consumer digital cameras for sale today still use standard SD cards. They have the standard “cut corner”  design. miniSD cards are smaller than standard SD cards, measuring 21.5x20x1.4 mm and weighing about 0.8 grams. This is the least common size today. miniSD cards were designed to be especially small for mobile phones, but we now have a smaller size. microSD cards are the smallest size of SD card, measuring 15x11x1 mm and weighing just 0.25 grams. These cards are used in most cell phones and smartphones that support SD cards. They’re also used in many other devices, such as tablets. SD cards will only fit into marching slots. You can’t plug a microSD card into a standard SD card slot — it won’t fit. However, you can purchase an adapter that allows you to plug a smaller SD card into a larger SD card’s form and fit it into the appropriate slot. Capacity Like USB flash drives, hard drives, solid-state drives, and other storage media, different SD cards can have different amounts of storage. But the differences between SD card capacities don’t stop there. Standard SDSC (SD) cards are 1 MB to 2 GB in size, or perhaps 4 GB in size — although 4 GB is non-standard. The SDHC standard was created later, and allows cards 2 GB to 32 GB in size. SDXC is a more recent standard that allows cards 32 GB to 2 TB in size. You’ll need a device that supports SDHC or SDXC cards to use them. At this point, the vast majority of devices should support SDHC. In fact, the SD cards you have are probably SDHC cards. SDXC is newer and less common. When buying an SD card, you’ll need to buy the right speed class, size, and capacity for your needs. Be sure to check what your device supports and consider what speed and capacity you’ll actually need. Image Credit: Ryosuke SEKIDO on Flickr, Clive Darra on Flickr, Steven Depolo on Flickr

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  • Prepping the Raspberry Pi for Java Excellence (part 1)

    - by HecklerMark
    I've only recently been able to begin working seriously with my first Raspberry Pi, received months ago but hastily shelved in preparation for JavaOne. The Raspberry Pi and other diminutive computing platforms offer a glimpse of the potential of what is often referred to as the embedded space, the "Internet of Things" (IoT), or Machine to Machine (M2M) computing. I have a few different configurations I want to use for multiple Raspberry Pis, but for each of them, I'll need to perform the following common steps to prepare them for their various tasks: Load an OS onto an SD card Get the Pi connected to the network Load a JDK I've been very happy to see good friend and JFXtras teammate Gerrit Grunwald document how to do these things on his blog (link to article here - check it out!), but I ran into some issues configuring wi-fi that caused me some needless grief. Not knowing if any of the pitfalls were caused by my slightly-older version of the Pi and not being able to find anything specific online to help me get past it, I kept chipping away at it until I broke through. The purpose of this post is to (hopefully) help someone else recognize the same issues if/when they encounter them and work past them quickly. There is a great resource page here that covers several ways to get the OS on an SD card, but here is what I did (on a Mac): Plug SD card into reader on/in Mac Format it (FAT32) Unmount it (diskutil unmountDisk diskn, where n is the disk number representing the SD card) Transfer the disk image for Debian to the SD card (dd if=2012-08-08-wheezy-armel.img of=/dev/diskn bs=1m) Eject the card from the Mac (diskutil eject diskn) There are other ways, but this is fairly quick and painless, especially after you do it several times. Yes, I had to do that dance repeatedly (minus formatting) due to the wi-fi issues, as it kept killing the ability of the Pi to boot. You should be able to dramatically reduce the number of OS loads you do, though, if you do a few things with regard to your wi-fi. Firstly, I strongly recommend you purchase the Edimax EW-7811Un wi-fi adapter. This adapter/chipset has been proven with the Raspberry Pi, it's tiny, and it's cheap. Avoid unnecessary aggravation and buy this one! Secondly, visit this page for a script and instructions regarding how to configure your new wi-fi adapter with your Pi. Here is the rub, though: there is a missing step. At least for my combination of Pi version, OS version, and uncanny gift of timing and luck there was. :-) Here is the sequence of steps I used to make the magic happen: Plug your newly-minted SD card (with OS) into your Pi and connect a network cable (for internet connectivity) Boot your Pi. On the first boot, do the following things: Opt to have it use all space on the SD card (will require a reboot eventually) Disable overscan Set your timezone Enable the ssh server Update raspi-config Reboot your Pi. This will reconfigure the SD to use all space (see above). After you log in (UID: pi, password: raspberry), upgrade your OS. This was the missing step for me that put a merciful end to the repeated SD card re-imaging and made the wi-fi configuration trivial. To do so, just type sudo apt-get upgrade and give it several minutes to complete. Pour yourself a cup of coffee and congratulate yourself on the time you've just saved.  ;-) With the OS upgrade finished, now you can follow Mr. Engman's directions (to the letter, please see link above), download his script, and let it work its magic. One aside: I plugged the little power-sipping Edimax directly into the Pi and it worked perfectly. No powered hub needed, at least in my configuration. To recap, that OS upgrade (at least at this point, with this combination of OS/drivers/Pi version) is absolutely essential for a smooth experience. Miss that step, and you're in for hours of "fun". Save yourself! I'll pick up next time with more of the Java side of the RasPi configuration, but as they say, you have to cross the moat to get into the castle. Hopefully, this will help you do just that. Until next time! All the best, Mark 

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  • Windows 8 Live ID / Service logon credentials

    - by dhh
    I installed Windows 8 on my home development machine some days ago. When installing a service by using installutil.exe I'm asked for logon credentials. Which credentials should I use here, as I'm logged on using my Windows live ID. Of course I can create a local Windows profile just for that, but my clients will ask this question too, sooner or later. When using my Windows Live ID (using my email address or the "local" username ms_001 as the logon name) I get the error: System.ComponentModel.Win32Exception: Access denied

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  • After upgrading to 12.04 the scanner from Brother Printer MFC-290C does not work

    - by Lorenzo
    I upgraded Ubuntu to 12.04 from 11.10. The printer works, but the scanner doesn't now. In 11.10 I had to install a special driver from Brother. The printer's model is Brother MFC-290C. The computer is a Toshiba Satellite. How can I get the scanner working? Update: I have a 64-bit installation on the Toshiba Satellite. Thank you for your instructions, Chad--24216. I followed each step: 1 through 5. I also updated the Brother Linux scanner S-KEY tool. The output of dpkg -l | grep Brother is: ii brscan-skey 0.2.3-0 Brother Linux scanner S-KEY tool ii brscan3 0.2.11-5 Brother Scanner Driver ii mfc290ccupswrapper:i386 1.1.2-2 Brother CUPS Inkjet Printer Definitions ii mfc290clpr:i386 1.1.2-2 Brother lpr Inkjet Printer Definitions ii printer-driver-ptouch 1.3-3ubuntu0.1 printer driver Brother P-touch label printers Still the scanner does not work. Here is the message from Xsane: Failed to open device brother3:bus6;dev1: Invalid argument. Here is the message from Simple Scan: Failed to scan. Unable to connect to scanner. And Scan Utility still doesn't display the scanner line.

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  • How to use the Netduino Go Piezo Buzzer Module

    - by Chris Hammond
    Originally posted on ChrisHammond.com Over the next couple of days people should be receiving their Netduino Go Piezo Buzzer Modules , at least if they have ordered them from Amazon. I was lucky enough to get mine very quickly from Amazon and put together a sample project the other night. This is by no means a complex project, and most of it is code from the public domain for projects based on the original Netduino. Project Overview So what does the project do? Essentially it plays 3 “tunes” that...(read more)

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