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• How Can I Test My Computer’s Power Supply?

  - by Jason Fitzpatrick

  You’re concerned your computer troubles stem from a failing (or outright fried) power supply unit. How can you test the unit to be sure that it’s the source of your hardware headaches? Today’s Question & Answer session comes to us courtesy of SuperUser—a subdivision of Stack Exchange, a community-driven grouping of Q&A web sites. The Question SuperUser reader Sam Hoice has some PSU concerns: My computer powered off the other day on its own, and now when I push the power button, nothing happens. My assumption would naturally be that the power supply is done (possibly well done) but is there any good way to test this before I buy a new one? How can Sam test things without damaging his current computer or other hardware?   The Answer SuperUser contributor Grant writes: Unplug the power supply from any of the components inside the computer (or just remove it from the computer completely). USE CAUTION HERE (Though you’d only be shocked with a max of 24 volts) Plug the power supply into the wall. Find the big 24-ish pin connector that connects to the motherboard. Connect the GREEN wire with the adjacent BLACK wire. The power supply’s fan should start up. If it doesn’t then it’s dead. If the fan starts up, then it could be the motherboard that’s dead. You can use a multimeter to check if there is power output from the power supply. Adrien offers a solution for readers who may not be comfortable jamming wires into their power supply unit’s MOBO connector: Most well-stocked geek-stores sell a “power-supply tester” that has all the appropriate connectors to plug each part of your PSU into, with spiffy LEDs indicating status of the various rails, connectors for IDE/SATA/floppy power cables, etc. They run ~$20 US. With a little careful shopping you can even find a highly-rated PSU tester for a measly $6. Have something to add to the explanation? Sound off in the the comments. Want to read more answers from other tech-savvy Stack Exchange users? Check out the full discussion thread here.     

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• Constant crashes in windows 7 64bit when playing games

  - by yx

  I've tried everything I can possibly think of in trying to fix this problem and I'm totally out of ideas, so any help would be appreciated: The problem: whenever I fire up a game, it works for a short while with no problems and then it would crash. Either its a hard crash, forcing me to reboot, or windows would report that the display driver has stopped working and recovered. Here is a list of things I've already tried: Drivers - tried the latest drivers (catalyst 9.12) as well as the stock drivers that came with the video card. Also have the latest BIOS/chipset Memtest - Ran Memtest86+ overnight, had no problems, the windows diagnostic tool also does not find any problems. Overheating - Video card/cpu temperatures are well below peak (42 and 31 Celsius receptively) PSU Voltage - CPUID shows that the voltage levels are all above what they should be. The PSU itself is only roughly 16 months old and is a good model. HDD - No errors when checked GPU - Brand new (replaced previous card since I thought it was the problem, apparently not) Overclocking - Everything is at stock levels, memory voltage is set to manufacturer's standard Specs: Motherboard: ASUS P5Q Pro CPU: Core 2 Duo E8400 3.0 ghz OS: Windows 7 home premium 64 bit Memory: Mushkin Enhanced 4GB DDR2 GPU: Sapphire HD 5850 1GB PSU: SeaSonic M12 600W ATX12V DirectX: DX11 Event Viewer after a crash always has these logged: A fatal hardware error has occurred. Reported by component: Processor Core Error Source: Machine Check Exception Error Type: Bus/Interconnect Error Processor ID: 1 The details view of this entry contains further information. A fatal hardware error has occurred. Reported by component: Processor Core Error Source: Machine Check Exception Error Type: Bus/Interconnect Error Processor ID: 0 The details view of this entry contains further information. A previous card that I had (4850x2) also had these errors, so I changed video cards, but the same thing is happening.

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• Hard drive spark, can it be recovered?

  - by user163558

  Alright, so I was going to install Source Film Maker but I didn't have any space, so I decided to connect an HDD via an USB converter(image below). I shut down the machine, turned the PSU off, and connected via a Molex connector & the USB converter. I turned back on the PSU, no sparks or anything, everything normal, but when I turned on the machine, I heard some sizzing(lol?) and sparks flying and a little flame, but the PC was running fine. I pressed the power button instead pulling out the plug (I panicked) so it continued to short circuit for about 10 seconds. There's a very little part on the HDD that become ash, it's near the Molex connector and the circuit is a little black as well. I'm afraid that I will damage the HDD more so I didn't hook up the HDD after all. Do you think it's the PSU(came default with Cooler Master Elite 430, 500W) or it's the HDD(Samsung SP1203N)? P.S: I've attached the HDD same way before(like 3 months ago), and it worked. HDD burn: USB connector: Sorry for the bad image quality, taken with my phone.

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• Can't seem to get chassis fans running

  - by TK Kocheran

  I've got a ASUS ROG Maximus V Extreme and I'm trying to connect my fans to the chassis fan pins to get them running according to the motherboard. I know for sure that my fans work, as when I test them with my Molex connector, they all happily power on. Here's two of my chassis fans connectors (there are 3-4): Here's the connector that came with either my motherboard or the PSU, can't remember :) I've never seen one of these strange cables before. All I know is that if I plug in the 4-pin mobo connector to either of these fan plugs, fans don't come on and don't show up in the BIOS. (Motherboard has a crazy awesome UEFI BIOS and shows you if it sees the fans.) If I try plugging the 4-pin connection into the mobo and the other side into the PSU, I can't POST. If I plug the PSU connector in without the mobo connector, fans come on. What could I be doing wrong here? Is it a problem with the cable I'm using? Is there something I may have missed in the build?

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• Windows Explorer Hangs on Right-Click

  - by Bryan

  I am not sure if this is the right site to post this one as I typically post coding questions on stackoverflow. But I'll ask anyways and hopefully someone can move it if it's incorrect. Currently I have a customer built PC, utilizing an Intel i7 chip, 1300WATT PSU, 8Gigs of RAM, and two video cards. Originally I had the one video card (NVIDIA) that used the PSU and had two DVI output. After purchasing a third monitor I installed another ATI) graphics card not needed any PSU connectors. After installing and restarting, I noticed that when I right-click on my desktop, or through Windows Explorer it will hang, freeze then restarted. Sometimes after Windows Explorer restarts the problem dissipates. I checked to make sure everything was connected properly and it was. I repaired the ATI Catalyst Control Center to see if that had an issue, and I checked to see if either video card required updated drivers. Nothing worked. I tried restarting my PC and that didn't work. I tried using ShellXView (I forgot what it's actually called) and tried closed processes but that didn't work. Does anyone have any idea what could have caused this orpossible solutions I should try?< Thanks in advance.

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• Rendering a frame is producing noise from speakers in Windows and Linux

  - by Robber

  When any hardware accelerated application is rendering a frame (or many of them) a very short noise is coming from my speakers. This can be a game, a WebGL application or XBMC. When the application/game is rendering many frames per second (like most of them do) the noise is a continuous buzzing that gets higher pitched with higher framerates. This applies to Linux and Windows, so I'd assume it's a hardware problem. The current hardware in the PC is: CPU: Core2Quad Q9550 GPU: Radeon HD 5770 RAM: 2x2GB DDR2 Motherboard: Asus P5QLD PRO PSU: be quiet! Pure Power 530W Screen and speakers: Old 720p LCD TV connected via VGA and aux cable Muting the TV stops the noise, muting Windows doesn't. I tried replacing the PSU first (used a Tagan 700W PSU before) because I thought it was a power problem. It wasn't. I tried replacing the motherboard (used a ASUS P5B SE before) next because I thought it was a sound card problem. It wasn't. I tried the GPU in a different PC because I thought it was a broken graphics card. It worked perfectly fine in the other PC. I thought it might be interference, but moving the audio cable around changes absolutely nothing. I tried using an HDMI cable instead and that did work, but is not an option since my TV has only one HDMI input and I need that for my PS3.

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• Computer wont start, just blinks on and off

  - by Ryan

  This is really strange. I had a comp that was working fine for over a year, then suddenly it started to shut off, it got so bad that I press the power button and in around 30 secs while booting windows it would shut off, then 20 secs... then 10 secs, then it refused to start all together. So I bought a new PSU (850w Thermaltake, the old one was 550w corsair) thinking that was the problem, I fitted the new PSU now and its the same thing, I press the power button and my fans start for a split second (they have led lights on them, so the lights come on) and then everything goes off again. I thought maybe it was my power button that was loose on my comp, luckily I had another chassis near by so I disconnected the powerSW from the old one and put ran the powerSW from the new chassis, press the power on the new chassis and same thing, it blinks for a split second and off again. Double checked connections from the PSU to the cpu power as well as board mobo power, its tight. It's pretty unlikely both the PSUs have the same exact problem so am lost... Suggestions?

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• Constant crashes in windows 7 64bit when playing games

  - by yx.

  I've tried everything I can possibly think of in trying to fix this problem and I'm totally out of ideas, so any help would be appreciated: The problem: whenever I fire up a game, it works for a short while with no problems and then it would crash. Either its a hard crash, forcing me to reboot, or windows would report that the display driver has stopped working and recovered. Here is a list of things I've already tried: Drivers - tried the latest drivers (catalyst 9.12) as well as the stock drivers that came with the video card. Also have the latest BIOS/chipset Memtest - Ran Memtest86+ overnight, had no problems, the windows diagnostic tool also does not find any problems. Overheating - Video card/cpu temperatures are well below peak (42 and 31 Celsius receptively) PSU Voltage - CPUID shows that the voltage levels are all above what they should be. The PSU itself is only roughly 16 months old and is a good model. HDD - No errors when checked GPU - Brand new (replaced previous card since I thought it was the problem, apparently not) Overclocking - Everything is at stock levels, memory voltage is set to manufacturer's standard Specs: Motherboard: ASUS P5Q Pro CPU: Core 2 Duo E8400 3.0 ghz OS: Windows 7 home premium 64 bit Memory: Mushkin Enhanced 4GB DDR2 GPU: Sapphire HD 5850 1GB PSU: SeaSonic M12 600W ATX12V DirectX: DX11 Event Viewer after a crash always has these logged: A fatal hardware error has occurred. Reported by component: Processor Core Error Source: Machine Check Exception Error Type: Bus/Interconnect Error Processor ID: 1 The details view of this entry contains further information. A fatal hardware error has occurred. Reported by component: Processor Core Error Source: Machine Check Exception Error Type: Bus/Interconnect Error Processor ID: 0 The details view of this entry contains further information. A previous card that I had (4850x2) also had these errors, so I changed video cards, but the same thing is happening.

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• Computer makes hissing noise, turns off after few seconds

  - by Kaustubh P

  I have a problem similar to the questions posted here and here. This is my config: Asus M3N78-EM, with AMD Phenom X3 720 2800 Black Edition, 4GB Transcend DDR2 RAM, Nvidia 9400GT. HD is a 160 GB IDE, and a LG IDE DVD-ROM. The power button is a bit off, I have removed the cover of the switch, and the only way it turns on is just giving the "stick" under the cover a gentle press. It turns on sometimes, and at other times, I have to cut-off the power from the PSU, and try again. I will describe my problem in as detail as possible, please bear with me: The problem has started in the last week, a few months after I changed the to the powerswitch arrangement as described above. The PC makes a hissing noise, and I wasn't able to pin-point the noise source, because of the various other fans. At first, removing the HD, rebooting w/o the HD, turning it off, reconnecting and booting made the problem go away. But of late, it doesn't happen. As suggested in the other questions, I tried reducing the load by disconnecting both the IDE drives, and the problem (noise + turn-off) still occurs. I also connected another 80G IDE HD,today morning, adn it still made that noise, and turned off. I also opened up the PSU, but I couldn't see any fault in that, I tried rotating the fan by blowing into the blades, and with my fingers, but the hissing noise didn't come from there. Or maybe the speed wasn't enough to evoke that noise. A few weeks ago: I had cleaned the Cabinet and had repasted the processor and its fan using some thermal paste. Could that be at fault? I also used a vacuum to blow the dust out of the PSU, could the power have been too much, to maybe offset the fan or something? A label on the PSU says it uses a ball-bearing fan. That only leaves me with the Processor fan and the processor itself. I didn't try removing the processor fan and processor from the motherboard, and then turning the PC on, fearing damage. Will doing so cause any damage? What can I do to localize and pin-point the problem? Also, after a few tries, the Computer starts up. Sometimes it turns of within 2 seconds, sometimes after the POST. Once it turned off at the grub. Another time it booted completely and then turned off. The only way to ensure that the PC wont turn off, is if the hissing noise stops. EDIT: I suspect it to be the Processor/Processor fan, owing to the source of noise. All the config, except for the Cabinet, is just over a year old. EDIT2: I also just remembered, that I had set the "On-power resume" to turn on, i.e. If I supply he PC with power, it will turn itself on, w/o me needing to press the switch. I had done that to workaround the faulty power-switch, as noted above. EDIT3: I calculated the power my system needs, from the antec site, and I just arrived at 292W

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• Intermittent lockups, unable to diagnose in over a year

  - by Magsol

  Here's a real doosie; I may just give my firstborn child to whomever helps me solve this problem. In July 2008, I assembled what would be my desktop computer for graduate school. Here are the specs of the machine I built: Thermaltake 750W PSU Corsair Dominator 2x2GB 240-pin SDRAM Thermaltake Tower Asus P5K Deluxe Motherboard Intel Core 2 Quad Q9300 2.5GHz CPU 2 x GeForce 8600 GT WD Caviar Blue 640GB hard drive CD burner DVD burner Soon thereafter, I ordered a new motherboard (because I was an idiot; that first motherboard supported CrossFire, not SLI), an Asus P5N-D. I was originally running Windows XP SP3. Pretty much right into the start of the fall semester, my desktop would simply lock up after awhile. If my system was largely idling, it would be after 1-3 days. If was gaming, it often happened an hour or two into my gaming session, indicating a link to activity level. Here's where it started getting interesting. I started looking at the system temps. The CPU was warmer than it should have been (~60s C), so I purchased some more efficient cooling compound a way better cooler for it. Now it hardly goes over 40 C. Intel was even kind enough to swap it out for free, just to rule it out. Lockups continued. The graphics cards were also running pretty warm: about 60 C idling. Removing one of them seemed to improve stability a little bit...as in, it wouldn't lock up quite as frequently, but still always eventually locked up. But it didn't matter which card I used or removed, the lockups continued. I reverted back to the original motherboard, the P5K Deluxe. Lockups continued. I purchased an entirely new motherboard, eVGA's nForce 750i. Lockups continued. Ran memtest86+ over and over and over, with no errors. Even RMA'd the memory. Lockups continued. Replaced the PSU with a Corsair 750W PSU. Lockups continued. Tried disconnecting all IDE drives (HDDs are SATA). Lockups continued. Replaced both graphics cards with a single Radeon HD 4980. Average temps are now always around 50 C when idling, 60 C only when gaming. Lockups continued. Throughout the whole ordeal, the system has been upgraded from Windows XP SP3 to Vista 32-bit, to Vista 64-bit, and is now at Windows 7 64-bit. Lockups have occurred at every step along the way (each OS was in place for at least a few months before the next upgrade). Edit: By "upgrade" I mean clean install each time. In addition to those reformats, I have performed many, many other reformats of the system and a reinstall of whatever OS had been previously installed in an attempt to rectify this problem, to no avail./Edit When the system locks up, there's no blue screen, no reboot, no error message of any kind. It simply freezes in place until I hit the reset button. Very, very rarely, once Windows boots back up, the system informs me that Windows has recovered from an error, but it can never find the source aside from some piece of hardware. I've swapped out every component in this computer, and there are more fans in it than I care to count...though for the sake of completeness: top 80mm case fan (out) rear 80mm case fan (out) rear 120mm case fan (out) front 120mm case fan (in) side 250mm case fan (in) giant CPU fan on-board motherboard fan (the eVGA board) triple-fan memory setup (came with the memory) PSU internal fan another 120mm fan I stuck on the underside of the video card to keep hot air from collecting at the bottom of the case I'm truly out of ideas. ANY help at all would be oh-so-very GREATLY appreciated. Thank you!

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• How to check CPU temperature on a HP P2000?

  - by Pavel

  I have a HP StorageWorks MSA Storage P2000 G3 SAS. show sensor-status gives something like # show sensor-status Sensor Name Value Status ---------------------------------------------------- On-Board Temperature 1-Ctlr A 53 C OK On-Board Temperature 1-Ctlr B 52 C OK On-Board Temperature 2-Ctlr A 61 C OK On-Board Temperature 2-Ctlr B 63 C OK On-Board Temperature 3-Ctlr A 53 C OK On-Board Temperature 3-Ctlr B 53 C OK Disk Controller Temp-Ctlr A 34 C OK Disk Controller Temp-Ctlr B 32 C OK Memory Controller Temp-Ctlr A 66 C OK Memory Controller Temp-Ctlr B 67 C OK [...] Overall Unit Status OK OK Temperature Loc: upper-IOM A 40 C OK Temperature Loc: lower-IOM B 38 C OK Temperature Loc: left-PSU 36 C OK Temperature Loc: right-PSU 40 C OK [...] is one of the values the CPU/FPGA temperature? Or, if not, how do I get it? Thanks!

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• Vista install works on one computer, but bluescreens another (on which Vista is known to work)

  - by Ken

  I hope my explanations make some sense -- please ask for clarification if they don't. I had a computer running Windows Vista (Ultimate, 64-bit). All was well! Then one day there was a nasty power surge at the office, and it died. (We didn't have surge protectors at the office, unfortunately. I assumed our lines were conditioned elsewhere, or was not an issue here. Oops.) After some testing, it was determined that the PSU, motherboard, and RAM were bad. While waiting for new hardware to arrive, I put my hard disk in a spare PC which had identical parts (mobo/CPU/RAM/PSU/video). Everything worked perfectly. The only way I could even tell it wasn't my computer is because Vista asked to re-activate itself with the new hardware, which worked fine, too. So the hard disk seems OK. Then the new parts arrived. The old motherboard model is no longer manufactured, so it's a new one with the same CPU/RAM/videocard/etc. slots. The PSU is also new, while the RAM I'm using is from the spare PC mentioned above. When I put it together and tried booting with my old hard disk, it starts to boot Windows, and then (fairly early in the process) gives a bluescreen and immediately reboots (so I can't see whatever the bluescreen is trying to tell me). I tried "safe mode", which also bluescreened. I tried booting the Vista DVD and running the repair utility, which found a Vista install, confirmed that it would not boot, and, eventually, declared that it was unable to repair it. I installed Vista fresh on a new hard disk, with the new mobo/etc., and it works perfectly. (That's what I'm running now.) I've also booted a Linux CD here, which ran great, and I've run Memtest86+ for a while, which found no errors. So all the hardware apart from the old hard disk seems OK, too. I don't think the problem is with my old Vista hard disk, since I used that with another mobo/CPU just fine. I don't think it's any other part of the new hardware, since I'm able to use it (and test it) with no trouble. It's just the combination of my old Vista install plus the new PC hardware that's not happy. I can get my data off my old hard disk and onto my new hard disk, and reinstall my apps, but it would be nice if I could fix things so I could continue to use my old hard disk as before. The latest hypothesis I've heard is that Vista had trouble with the new hardware (i.e., motherboard), but we have no idea what to do about that (except Safe Mode, which didn't work). Suggestions? Hypotheses for what's not right about this combination of Vista install and motherboard? Thanks!

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• New build won't POST, no video, no beeps

  - by Nate Koppenhaver

  Specs: Motherboard: MSI 760GM-P23 FX Integrated graphics (on MoBo) CPU: AMD Athlon II x4 640 RAM: GeIL Pristine 4GB DDR3 Case/PSU: TOPOWER TP-4107BB-400 Is not POSTing, no video output, no beeps. When RAM is removed, 3 beeps. I have tried removing and replacing the CPU and all the power cables with no change. Resetting the BIOS (by removing and replacing the battery) did nothing as well. Is there something I'm forgetting (1st time building from components), or could one of the components be bad? EDIT: New development: with CPU and RAM installed correctly, it will turn on lights and fans (still no POST) and after running for a minute or so it will turn off and the PSU will make a buzzing noise that ceases only when unplugged.

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• Fan twitches and LEDs blink when computer is plugged in

  - by Zifre

  I just finished assembling a desktop for the first time. The specs are: Gigabyte GA-H55M-S2H motherboard Core i3 530 CPU 4 GB DDR3 RAM 1 TB SATA hard drive 500 Watt PSU As soon as I plug in the computer, the "phase LED" starts blinking orange and the system fan LED blinks while the fan "twitches". This continues until about three seconds after I unplug the computer. This worries me a lot because I haven't even turned the computer on and it continues even after there is no power. I did make sure the PSU is on the proper power setting. What is causing this and how can I fix it? Is the motherboard dead?

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• Computer won't power on

  - by briskmojo

  Was working fine for over a year, now won't boot. LEDs on the GFX card and one on the MOBO labeled PWR glow when plugged in, but nothing happens when I push power and shorting switch pins does nothing either. If I pop out the CMOS battery and put it back in then try the fans lurch but nothing happens. Shorting the 15 and 16 pins turns the PSU on, and when the 24pin connector is attached to the MOBO it will start up briefly then stop. If I plug in the CPU header it returns to what I described, no power but will lurch after replacing the CMOS battery. Should I be shopping for a new PSU or is there another problem maybe?

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• How to calculate power/energy taken by computer and screen

  - by r0ca

  I need to investigate how much power my linux machine uses per week. I can take a look at the PSU but I would like to know how to calculate the average use of power it takes. I also need to know how much power a CRT screen use per week. Do I need to check the PSU Watt unit and Screen Watt usage and just add both to have the results? P.S. My english is not good, sorry about that! P.P.S. My question is not related to: http://superuser.com/questions/9946/how-to-choose-a-ups-calculate-power-for-a-new-pc

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• Idle hard disk makes noise.

  - by ULTRA_POROV

  Like a fan or something. I checked it. I stopped all fans (cpu, video, psu) and the noise was still there. I read online that it might be a motor or something. I have put a great deal of effort making my pc quiet. Installed a quiet psu and cpu fan, reduced the fan speed of my video card, bought a ssd... But my drive for data makes this noise. I would never have expected that. Do all hard disks make this kind of noise? I guess most people won't notice it because of the other fans they have in the system, I however can hear it quite clearly because all my other fans are almost silent. So should i get a new one or should i just live with it, considering that i might end up with a drive that also makes this noise.

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• Computer not displaying anything

  - by Justen

  The computer in question worked last week. It's brand new, never been connected to the internet, up-to-date parts, etc. Last week, I installed some 3D software on it, then shut it down and waited for the license files that arrived this week. I've done this to 4 other PCs with the same hardware and software. I've tried: Hooking it up to 3 different monitors using different video cables 2 other graphics cards and a handful of other things like switching which port it's plugged into before and after a restart. I have the driver disc, and a windows reinstallation disc, but they won't do me any good because no display at all for any interval of time. All the fans are moving: psu, gfx, cpu etc, so I don't believe it's a power issue. Here are the specs I know of: 4GB RAM 8800 GTX 700w PSU Intel dual core (not sure of model) Anyways, I'm open to ideas.

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• Click sound from computer when shut down

  - by user32569

  Hi, I build my new computer yesterday and I noticed, when computer is shut down, I mean the exact time its looses power from PSU, relativelly loud CLICK sound occurs. Please does anyone knows from where? I think MB, SSD, VGA, CPU nor coolers are not cousing this. I would guess maybe Samsung 1TB HDD (maybe when heads go back to LZ) or some hard safety switch or relay in PSU? Or just the MB speaker? (Yes, its actually installed). Do you have any experience with this? Thanks.

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• Virtual hosting all resolving to the same files

  - by nona urbiz

  I'm trying to set up virtual hosts on my VPS (centos). I set both domain nameservers to fns1.dnspark.net and fns2.dnspark.net and set an A record there for each domain pointing to my IP address 50.16.219.8. Both domains are currently resolving to the first virtual host. What am I doing wrong? Thanks! NameVirtualHost *:80 <VirtualHost *:80> ServerAdmin [email protected] DocumentRoot /var/www/root/dylanstestserver.com ServerName dylanstestserver.com ServerAlias www.dylanstestserver.com ErrorLog logs/dylanstestserver.com-error-log CustomLog logs/dylanstestserver.com-access_log common </VirtualHost> <VirtualHost *:80> ServerAdmin [email protected] DocumentRoot /var/www/root/repthis.info ServerName repthis.info ServerAlias www.repthis.info ErrorLog logs/repthis.info-error-log CustomLog logs/repthis.info-access_log common </VirtualHost>

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• Which Power supply I should buy

  - by arayman

  I am going to buy a new PSU of CORSAIR for my IBM thinkcentre desktop. My previous original PSU was of 230 watts. I have not added any hardware in the CPU. It's in same condition as it was when I bought. On that basis, please suggest which power supply of Corsair and of how many watts will be suitable for me to buy, after referring to the under given weblink. http://www.corsair.com/en/power-supply-units.html Thanks.

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• Computer cables explained

  - by Robert English

  I've noticed lately that places to learn about both power supply cables and also peripherals and fans aren't that easy to find. There's very little information available that gives detailed explanations of what cables are used inside a computer. What I found was very dated and often lacked detailed explanations. For someone planning out their first build it would be great way for this to be explained all in one place, like here! Important things to know about cables and connections in a computer? What are their names? Where do they connect to and why? What typical Voltages do they output? Changing Voltages for Overclocking? Please refernce PSU cables(Full modular, Modular and Non-Modular,24-pin, 20+4-pin etc), SATA(I, II, III), Molex etc. EDIT: Forgot to mention any information about PSU rails would also be appreciated :)

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• Why are my USB 2.0 devices crashing Windows XP?

  - by BenAlabaster

  Background on the machine I'm having a problem with: The machine was inherited and appears to be circa 2003 (there's a date stamp on the power supply which leads me to this conclusion). I've got it set up as a Skype terminal for my 2 year old to keep in touch with her grandparents and other members of the family - which everyone loves. It has a generic ATX motherboard with no identifying markings other than one stamp that says "Rev.B". CPU-Z identifies the motherboard model as VT8601 but doesn't provide me with any manufacturer name. On board it has 1 x 10/100 LAN, 2 x USB 1.0, VGA, PS/2 for KB and mouse, parallel port, 2 x serial ports, 2 x IDE, 1 x floppy, 2 x SDRAM slots, 1 x CPU housing that is seating a 1.3GHz Intel Celeron CPU, 3 x PCI, 1 x AGP - although you can only use 2 of the PCI slots if you use the AGP slot due to the physical layout of the board. It's got 768Mb PC133 SDRAM - 1 x 512Mb & 1 x 256Mb installed as well as a D-LINK WDA-2320 54G Wi-Fi network card and a generic USB 2.0 expansion board containing 3 x external + 1 x internal USB connectors. It has a DVD+/-RW running as master on IDE1 and a 1.44Mb 3.5" floppy drive connected to the floppy connector. It has an 80Gb Western Digital hard drive running as master on IDE0. All this is sitting in a slimline case. I don't know the wattage of the PSU, but can post this later if this proves to be helpful. The motherboard is running a version of Award BIOS for which I don't have the version number to hand but can again post this later if it would be helpful. The hard disk is freshly formatted and built with Windows XP Professional/Service Pack 3 and is up to date with all current patches. In addition to Windows XP, the only other software it's running is Skype 4.1 (4.2 hangs the whole machine as soon as it starts up, requiring a hard boot to recover). It's got a Daytek MV150 15" touch screen hooked up to the on board VGA and COM1 sockets with the most current drivers from the Daytek website and the most current version of ELO-Touchsystems drivers for the touch component. The webcam is a Logitech Webcam C200 with the latest drivers from the Logitech website. The problem: If I hook any devices to the USB 2.0 sockets, it hangs the whole machine and I have to hard boot it to get it back up. If I have any devices attached to the USB 2.0 sockets when I boot up, it hangs before Windows gets to the login prompt and I have to hard boot it to recover. Workarounds found: I can plug the same devices into the on board USB 1.0 sockets and everything works fine, albeit at reduced performance. I've tried 3 different kinds of USB thumb drives, 3 different makes/models of webcams and my iPhone all with the same effect. They're recognized and don't hang the machine when I hook them to the USB 1.0 but if I hook them to the USB 2.0 ports, the machine hangs within a couple of seconds of recognizing the devices were connected. Attempted solutions: I've seen suggestions that this could be a power problem - that the PSU just doesn't have the wattage to drive these ports. While I'm doubtful this is the problem [after all the motherboard has the same standard connector regardless of the PSU wattage], I tried disabling all the on board devices that I'm not using - on board LAN, the second COM port, the AGP connector etc. through the BIOS in what I'm sure is a futile attempt to reduce the power consumption... I also modified the ACPI and power management settings. It didn't have any noticeable affect, although it didn't do any harm either. Could the wattage of the PSU really cause this problem? If it can, is there anything I need to be aware of when replacing it or do I just need to make sure it's got a higher wattage than the current one? My interpretation was that the wattage only affected the number of drives you could hook up to the power connectors, is that right? I've installed the USB card in another machine and it works without issue, so it's not a problem with the USB card itself, and Windows says the card is installed and working correctly... right up until I connect a device to it. The only thing I haven't done which I only just thought of while writing this essay is trying the USB 2.0 card in a different PCI slot, or re-ordering the wi-fi and USB cards in the slots... although I'm not sure if this will make any difference - does anyone have any experience that would suggest this might work? Other thoughts/questions: Perhaps this is an incompatibility between the USB 2.0 card and the BIOS, would re-flashing the BIOS with a newer version help? Do I need to be able to identify the manufacturer of the motherboard in order to be able to find a BIOS edition specific for this motherboard or will any version of Award BIOS function in its place? Question: Does anyone have any ideas that could help me get my USB 2.0 devices hooked up to this machine?

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• Why are my USB 2.0 devices hanging Windows XP?

  - by BenAlabaster

  Background on the machine I'm having a problem with: The machine was inherited and appears to be circa 2003 (there's a date stamp on the power supply which leads me to this conclusion). I've got it set up as a Skype terminal for my 2 year old to keep in touch with her grandparents and other members of the family - which everyone loves. It has a generic ATX motherboard with no identifying markings other than one stamp that says "Rev.B". CPU-Z identifies the motherboard model as VT8601 but doesn't provide me with any manufacturer name. On board it has 1 x 10/100 LAN, 2 x USB 1.0, VGA, PS/2 for KB and mouse, parallel port, 2 x serial ports, 2 x IDE, 1 x floppy, 2 x SDRAM slots, 1 x CPU housing that is seating a 1.3GHz Intel Celeron CPU, 3 x PCI, 1 x AGP - although you can only use 2 of the PCI slots if you use the AGP slot due to the physical layout of the board. It's got 768Mb PC133 SDRAM - 1 x 512Mb & 1 x 256Mb installed as well as a D-LINK WDA-2320 54G Wi-Fi network card and a generic USB 2.0 expansion board containing 3 x external + 1 x internal USB connectors - it has a NEC uPD720102 chipset. It has a DVD+/-RW running as master on IDE1 and a 1.44Mb 3.5" floppy drive connected to the floppy connector. It has an 80Gb Western Digital hard drive running as master on IDE0. All this is sitting in a slimline case. I don't know the wattage of the PSU, but can post this later if this proves to be helpful. The motherboard is running a version of Award BIOS for which I don't have the version number to hand but can again post this later if it would be helpful. The hard disk is freshly formatted and built with Windows XP Professional/Service Pack 3 and is up to date with all current patches. In addition to Windows XP, the only other software it's running is Skype 4.1 (4.2 hangs the whole machine as soon as it starts up, requiring a hard boot to recover). It's got a Daytek MV150 15" touch screen hooked up to the on board VGA and COM1 sockets with the most current drivers from the Daytek website and the most current version of ELO-Touchsystems drivers for the touch component. The webcam is a Logitech Webcam C200 with the latest drivers from the Logitech website. The problem: If I hook any devices to the USB 2.0 sockets, it hangs the whole machine and I have to hard boot it to get it back up. If I have any devices attached to the USB 2.0 sockets when I boot up, it hangs before Windows gets to the login prompt and I have to hard boot it to recover. Workarounds found: I can plug the same devices into the on board USB 1.0 sockets and everything works fine, albeit at reduced performance. I've tried 3 different kinds of USB thumb drives, 3 different makes/models of webcams and my iPhone all with the same effect. They're recognized and don't hang the machine when I hook them to the USB 1.0 but if I hook them to the USB 2.0 ports, the machine hangs within a couple of seconds of recognizing the devices were connected. Attempted solutions: I've seen suggestions that this could be a power problem - that the PSU just doesn't have the wattage to drive these ports. While I'm doubtful this is the problem [after all the motherboard has the same standard connector regardless of the PSU wattage], I tried disabling all the on board devices that I'm not using - on board LAN, the second COM port, the AGP connector etc. through the BIOS in what I'm sure is a futile attempt to reduce the power consumption... I also modified the ACPI and power management settings. It didn't have any noticeable affect, although it didn't do any harm either. Could the wattage of the PSU really cause this problem? If it can, is there anything I need to be aware of when replacing it or do I just need to make sure it's got a higher wattage than the current one? My interpretation was that the wattage only affected the number of drives you could hook up to the power connectors, is that right? I've installed the USB card in another machine and it works without issue, so it's not a problem with the USB card itself, and Windows says the card is installed and working correctly... right up until I connect a device to it. The only thing I haven't done which I only just thought of while writing this essay is trying the USB 2.0 card in a different PCI slot, or re-ordering the wi-fi and USB cards in the slots... although I'm not sure if this will make any difference - does anyone have any experience that would suggest this might work? Other thoughts/questions: Perhaps this is an incompatibility between the USB 2.0 card and the BIOS, would re-flashing the BIOS with a newer version help? Do I need to be able to identify the manufacturer of the motherboard in order to be able to find a BIOS edition specific for this motherboard or will any version of Award BIOS function in its place? Question: Does anyone have any ideas that could help me get my USB 2.0 devices hooked up to this machine? Edit: Updated the USB 2.0 info with reference to actual card - http://www.xpcgear.com/lpnec4u.html

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• PC shut downs automatically after a second

  - by emzero

  I have this not-so-old computer that's not being used for a year or so. Specs: Motherboard: ASUS PN5-E SLI CPU: Intel Core2Duo E4300 RAM:2x2GB SuperTalent DDR2-800 VGA: Zogis GeForce 7950GT PSU: Vitsuba San-55-S 550w HD: No hardrives yet When I power on the computer, everything seem to start, but right away the whole system shuts down. I've removed and changed the RAM sticks, take out the VGA, everything I could think of. So what could it be causing this? The PSU? The motherboard is dead? The CPU? Any help to isolate the problem will be useful. Thanks PS: Please don't close the question, this could be helpful to anybody having a similar problem, even with different hardware.

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