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  • What can I put in my software development blog to make it a good showcase of me?

    - by Sean
    I have been itching to write a software development blog for some time now. The best advice I've received about blog writing is "Write the blog you would have want to read". Its good advice but its only half the story, Once you write a blog it becomes your showcase on the Internet, it is bound to come up on any search conducted by a future colleague or employer. It can be a good thing or it can do some serious damage. So if there are any hiring managers out there, can you give me a few pointers on what it is in a blog that give you a good impression about candidate and/or the kind of stuff that causes you to throw the candidate's resume to the nearest bean? Does a blog have to come up with a clever piece of code every week? (Don’t think I can manage it) Is it OK to blog more then not about development methods to improved quality and productivity (have a lot of ideas about that). Can I blog about stuff I did not try first hand but seems noteworthy?

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  • Simple NAS setup for Ubuntu

    - by Sean Houlihane
    So, I want to connect my shiny new NAS (QNAP TS-210p II) to my Ubuntu 11.10 box. I have a 2nd Ubuntu machine, but I don't use that enough to be too worried about it. Use is ideally to offload all storage except for system (which can then run off a 30GB flash drive). The main machine also runs Myth front/backends. Both are on a wired network currently. I have got a basic setup working, mounted over NFS, but have some issues, and whenever I look for answers, I seem to get unto the UbuntuServer domain, with what seems like more detail than I want in an answer. Questions I have identified so far: 1) Sharing UIDs to get file permissions correct. LDAP or something else? What is necessary to make this work? 2) Mounting an NFS device reliably. Do I just add it in fstab or is some sort of auto-mount advisable? Its a wired network, but I shouldn't need to worry about reboot after power-outages and sequencing...

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  • Is there an alternative to k3dsurf in 12.10?

    - by Sean Fitzpatrick
    I've just upgraded to Quantal Quetzal on my home computer and discovered that the program K3dSurf has been removed from the repositories. (Presumably since it doesn't seem to be in active development and still depends on qt3 libraries.) Does anyone know of a similar program (user-friendly and versatile) for drawing 3D surfaces? This has been a mission-critical program for me when teaching multivariable calculus, so I won't be able to upgrade at work unless I can find a replacement. (Yes, I could install directly from the program's website, but dealing with obsolete libraries sounds like a giant headache.)

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  • Why am I getting domainpark.cgi being called from my website?

    - by Sean
    I used to test my site on www.exampleone.com and now I have moved to the real domain www.realdomain.com now and www.exampleone.com is now parked by 1and1 (default). Now when I test to see which requests are made by the www.realdomain.comI see domainpark.cgi and park.js from Sedo Parking also being requested as well as the js that serves the ads by adclicks. How do I get rid of this? It's not on the index page at all, and it's causing a lot of strain and slowing my site down.

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  • 14.04 default locales

    - by Seán Ó Séaghdha
    After a new install of 14.04 I have quite a few extra locales/languages. Is this normal? I installed using English (GB) I think since en_AU isn't an option. At some point apt offered a list of unused files which I removed. Now when I open Language Support it warns me that "Language support is not installed completely" and offers to reinstall this list... kde-l10n-zhcn thunderbird-locale-en-gb thunderbird-locale-es libreoffice-l10n-en-gb libreoffice-help-es libreoffice-help-en-gb wspanish thunderbird-locale-zh-cn myspell-es ibus-sunpinyin mythes-en-au kde-l10n-es libreoffice-l10n-zh-cn fonts-arphic-uming ibus-table-wubi thunderbird-locale-es-es thunderbird-locale-zh-hans libreoffice-l10n-en-za thunderbird-locale-es-ar hunspell-en-ca libreoffice-l10n-es libreoffice-help-zh-cn kde-l10n-engb fonts-arphic-ukai So are Spanish and Chinese installed by default in all installations now? Why do I need Canadian English spellchecking installed?

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  • What determines which Javascript functions are blocking vs non-blocking?

    - by Sean
    I have been doing web-based Javascript (vanilla JS, jQuery, Backbone, etc.) for a few years now, and recently I've been doing some work with Node.js. It took me a while to get the hang of "non-blocking" programming, but I've now gotten used to using callbacks for IO operations and whatnot. I understand that Javascript is single-threaded by nature. I understand the concept of the Node "event queue". What I DON'T understand is what determines whether an individual javascript operation is "blocking" vs. "non-blocking". How do I know which operations I can depend on to produce an output synchronously for me to use in later code, and which ones I'll need to pass callbacks to so I can process the output after the initial operation has completed? Is there a list of Javascript functions somewhere that are asynchronous/non-blocking, and a list of ones that are synchronous/blocking? What is preventing my Javascript app from being one giant race condition? I know that operations that take a long time, like IO operations in Node and AJAX operations on the web, require them to be asynchronous and therefore use callbacks - but who is determining what qualifies as "a long time"? Is there some sort of trigger within these operations that removes them from the normal "event queue"? If not, what makes them different from simple operations like assigning values to variables or looping through arrays, which it seems we can depend on to finish in a synchronous manner? Perhaps I'm not even thinking of this correctly - hoping someone can set me straight. Thanks!

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  • (SOLVED) Problems Rendering Text in OpenGL Using FreeType

    - by Sean M.
    I've been following both the FreeType2 tutorial and the WikiBooks tuorial, trying to combine things from them both in order to load and render fonts using the FreeType library. I used the font loading code from the FreeType2 tutorial and tried to implement the rendering code from the wikibooks tutorial (tried being the keyword as I'm still trying to learn model OpenGL, I'm using 3.2). Everything loads correctly and I have the shader program to render the text with working, but I can't get the text to render. I'm 99% sure that it has something to do with how I cam passing data to the shader, or how I set up the screen. These are the code segments that handle OpenGL initialization, as well as Font initialization and rendering: //Init glfw if (!glfwInit()) { fprintf(stderr, "GLFW Initialization has failed!\n"); exit(EXIT_FAILURE); } printf("GLFW Initialized.\n"); //Process the command line arguments processCmdArgs(argc, argv); //Create the window glfwWindowHint(GLFW_SAMPLES, g_aaSamples); glfwWindowHint(GLFW_CONTEXT_VERSION_MAJOR, 3); glfwWindowHint(GLFW_CONTEXT_VERSION_MINOR, 2); g_mainWindow = glfwCreateWindow(g_screenWidth, g_screenHeight, "Voxel Shipyard", g_fullScreen ? glfwGetPrimaryMonitor() : nullptr, nullptr); if (!g_mainWindow) { fprintf(stderr, "Could not create GLFW window!\n"); closeOGL(); exit(EXIT_FAILURE); } glfwMakeContextCurrent(g_mainWindow); printf("Window and OpenGL rendering context created.\n"); glClearColor(0.2f, 0.2f, 0.2f, 1.0f); //Are these necessary for Modern OpenGL (3.0+)? glViewport(0, 0, g_screenWidth, g_screenHeight); glOrtho(0, g_screenWidth, g_screenHeight, 0, -1, 1); //Init glew int err = glewInit(); if (err != GLEW_OK) { fprintf(stderr, "GLEW initialization failed!\n"); fprintf(stderr, "%s\n", glewGetErrorString(err)); closeOGL(); exit(EXIT_FAILURE); } printf("GLEW initialized.\n"); Here is the font file (it's slightly too big to post): CFont.h/CFont.cpp Here is the solution zipped up: [solution] (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36062916/VoxelShipyard.zip), if anyone feels they need the entire solution. If anyone could take a look at the code, it would be greatly appreciated. Also if someone has a tutorial that is a little more user friendly, that would also be appreciated. Thanks.

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  • XNA: Runtime differences in ClickOnce install versus development version

    - by Sean Colombo
    I have a game written in XNA, and I use ClickOnce installers to distribute the game to testers. I keep once computer as a test machine which does NOT have development environments installed, so that I can test the installed version. We've found a reproducible bug in our game, but the bug ONLY occurs on the non-development machines that use the ClickOnce installer. The bug is related to some of our code for moving around 3D objects and is not tied to Networking or GamerServices. Are there known differences in the ClickOnce runtime and the version on dev? Are there any best-practices for debugging something like this?

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  • Creating a voxel world with 3D arrays using threads

    - by Sean M.
    I am making a voxel game (a bit like Minecraft) in C++(11), and I've come across an issue with creating a world efficiently. In my program, I have a World class, which holds a 3D array of Region class pointers. When I initialize the world, I give it a width, height, and depth so it knows how large of a world to create. Each Region is split up into a 32x32x32 area of blocks, so as you may guess, it takes a while to initialize the world once the world gets to be above 8x4x8 Regions. In order to alleviate this issue, I thought that using threads to generate different levels of the world concurrently would make it go faster. Having not used threads much before this, and being still relatively new to C++, I'm not entirely sure how to go about implementing one thread per level (level being a xz plane with a height of 1), when there is a variable number of levels. I tried this: for(int i = 0; i < height; i++) { std::thread th(std::bind(&World::load, this, width, height, depth)); th.join(); } Where load() just loads all Regions at height "height". But that executes the threads one at a time (which makes sense, looking back), and that of course takes as long as generating all Regions in one loop. I then tried: std::thread t1(std::bind(&World::load, this, w, h1, h2 - 1, d)); std::thread t2(std::bind(&World::load, this, w, h2, h3 - 1, d)); std::thread t3(std::bind(&World::load, this, w, h3, h4 - 1, d)); std::thread t4(std::bind(&World::load, this, w, h4, h - 1, d)); t1.join(); t2.join(); t3.join(); t4.join(); This works in that the world loads about 3-3.5 times faster, but this forces the height to be a multiple of 4, and it also gives the same exact VAO object to every single Region, which need individual VAOs in order to render properly. The VAO of each Region is set in the constructor, so I'm assuming that somehow the VAO number is not thread safe or something (again, unfamiliar with threads). So basically, my question is two one-part: How to I implement a variable number of threads that all execute at the same time, and force the main thread to wait for them using join() without stopping the other threads? How do I make the VAO objects thread safe, so when a bunch of Regions are being created at the same time across multiple threads, they don't all get the exact same VAO? Turns out it has to do with GL contexts not working across multiple threads. I moved the VAO/VBO creation back to the main thread. Fixed! Here is the code for block.h/.cpp, region.h/.cpp, and CVBObject.h/.cpp which controls VBOs and VAOs, in case you need it. If you need to see anything else just ask. EDIT: Also, I'd prefer not to have answers that are like "you should have used boost". I'm trying to do this without boost to get used to threads before moving onto other libraries.

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  • Do you think Windows 8 will be a success? [closed]

    - by Sean Dexter
    I'm a c# developer so far and just about to head into getting my skills up to date in WinRT. However, I'm having a crisis of faith and wondering if it might be a better career move to jump on the Objective-C bandwagon. The way I see it, Windows 8 might be a success or it might not. Apple technologies are a sure bet. Honestly, I don't want to get into Apple development. I'd prefer to pretend AAPL doesn't exist, but, unfortunately, that's not possible.

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  • I'm going to quit my job because of our platform: how can I leave a productive explanation of this?

    - by Sean M
    I'm planning on leaving my current job because we're locked into using Blub, with an enterprise Blub framework and a Blub-level web server, on mediocre shared hosting. My coworkers are friendly and my boss is an average small business owner - I want to leave entirely because of the technical reasons. I feel like being soaked in Blub is bad for my brain and making me a worse programmer. When I leave, how can I explain this to my boss and coworkers? How can I phrase my complaints about Blub productively? What kind of warning can I and should I leave for my successor in documentation? (trying to make sure I meet the standards)

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  • Missing resolutions on ubuntu 11.10 fresh install

    - by Sean Marshall
    Today I installed Ubuntu 11.10 for the first time on my computer. My Monitor's resolution is 1280x1024, but the only resolutions in display are "1024x768 (4:3)" and "800x600 (4:3)". I installed all updates, There is nothing in additional drivers and still nothing. I want to set the resolution to 1280x1024. How do I check my graphic card name? By the way Unity 3d is working and compiz effects are working super fast.

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  • Printer Sharing Issue

    - by Sean Webber
    So I set up my printer on 12.10 to share via SAMBA. Windows 'sees' it, it will install it on windows (I have the printer driver installs but it asks for it in Windows default list.. ?), then I can print a test page to the ubuntu printer from Windows. But If I try to print something in Notepad/Wordpad it says 'Printing' but doesn't add it to the "See whats printing" list. If you do it in Google Chrome, however, it works. Any ideas?

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  • Java on Ubuntu server 12.04?

    - by Sean Dunwoody
    I'm a little confused at the moment. My back story in short, is that I'm trying to set up a Minecraft server on an Ubuntu server I've recently set up, obviously to do this I needed Java, but after googling for a short while I wasn't entirely sure whether it is possible (or legal?) to do so in Ubuntu 12.04 due to licensing type issues - so I installed open JDK instead which appears not to work properly with the Minecraft server software (I half expected this) I'm now considering uninstalling open JDK and instead trying to get proper Java on there instead, my question is, is this possible? Is it Legal? And if so how do I go about doing it? Because I'm finding it very difficult to find any instructions on how to do so for 12.04 . . .

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  • Ghosting Program for Ubuntu 12.10

    - by Sean Webber
    I am looking to figure out how to set up a mass backup system for a computer network (of about 25) and am looking for a ghosting program that makes an image of the entire system for backup/recovery purposes. While clonezilla would work.. you have to manually boot us the CD for it. I am looking for a program that runs INSIDE Ubuntu that sends a system image backup off to the network server at set times, then when needed could also be used to burn the clone back to the machine. Another words- automatically and the only time I have to do anything to it is when I need to burn a backup BACK to a 'crapped' machine. Any ideas?

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  • Ubuntu 12.10 WiFi Problems

    - by Sean Webber
    I have a 32 bit machine running Ubuntu 12.10 with WiFi on it. I have a WPA2 network at home, but if I leave the USB Adapter plugged in while it boots, it infinitely keeps asking for the network password but never connects. If I plug it in after boot, it will connect but then I can't access ANYTHING on the LAN or Internet because "the DNS servers are unreachable". Now, if I leave the computer on a while, I get lucky sometimes and it MAGICALLY decides to connect for a little bit, lock the machine though and the Internet's gone again. The weirdest thing, is when I am connected but can't get to the internet, I do a netstat or ifconfig wlan0, I do have an IP address and everything. It says I'm connected but its not. I have a Realtek RTL8188CU USB adapter.

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  • Help with Grub2 needed post 13.10 updgrade. Grub sees my opensuse12.3 but when selected hangs with black screen.

    - by sean farley
    This happened on last upgrade and I reinstalled opensuse. I want to avoid that this time. When opensuse controlled grub the options to boot either OS worked fine. The ubuntu one will not work. Are there grub settings I can change to get this working? Would it be better to get the opensuse grub to load, if so how can I do this. i can see the opensuse root and home directories from ubuntu (they are on a separate HDD) Thanks

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  • Where do I publish a program?

    - by Sean
    I have finished designing a little application for Pandora and I am not sure how I can get it out and share it with everyone. What should I do to help advertise it to the public and let other people use it? As of right now it is free, and I hope to keep it that way, so I don't want to spend any money to give it out. I had actually designed this application just for personal use, but hey, why should I be the only one to use it?

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  • How to Install Moodle to subdomain with softaculous via cpanel [closed]

    - by Sean
    Hi there i installed moodle to a directory with softaculous as it doesn't allow installing to subdomain, after install I created a subdomain and pointed the destination (of subdomain) to previously created moodle directory, now when I go to the subdomain.example.com it says Incorrect access detected, this server may be accessed only through "http://example.com/moodle" address, sorry. Please notify server administrator. Any suggestions much appreciated! I must be doing something wrong, when installing it was very similar to these instructions

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  • How can I extract a list of Minecraft items and recipes?

    - by Sean
    I'm designing a robust system for resolving item dependencies in Minecraft and to do so, I need to maintain a database of items and recipes. Right now, this database has to be hand-crafted (no pun intended); I would like to know if it is possible to somehow query the Minecraft jars (or perhaps more realistically, grep through them) to extract this data automatically. How can this be done? The project is currently in Python, but it can still be ported to Java without much fuss at this stage. (For the curious.)

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  • HTG Reviews the CODE Keyboard: Old School Construction Meets Modern Amenities

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    There’s nothing quite as satisfying as the smooth and crisp action of a well built keyboard. If you’re tired of  mushy keys and cheap feeling keyboards, a well-constructed mechanical keyboard is a welcome respite from the $10 keyboard that came with your computer. Read on as we put the CODE mechanical keyboard through the paces. What is the CODE Keyboard? The CODE keyboard is a collaboration between manufacturer WASD Keyboards and Jeff Atwood of Coding Horror (the guy behind the Stack Exchange network and Discourse forum software). Atwood’s focus was incorporating the best of traditional mechanical keyboards and the best of modern keyboard usability improvements. In his own words: The world is awash in terrible, crappy, no name how-cheap-can-we-make-it keyboards. There are a few dozen better mechanical keyboard options out there. I’ve owned and used at least six different expensive mechanical keyboards, but I wasn’t satisfied with any of them, either: they didn’t have backlighting, were ugly, had terrible design, or were missing basic functions like media keys. That’s why I originally contacted Weyman Kwong of WASD Keyboards way back in early 2012. I told him that the state of keyboards was unacceptable to me as a geek, and I proposed a partnership wherein I was willing to work with him to do whatever it takes to produce a truly great mechanical keyboard. Even the ardent skeptic who questions whether Atwood has indeed created a truly great mechanical keyboard certainly can’t argue with the position he starts from: there are so many agonizingly crappy keyboards out there. Even worse, in our opinion, is that unless you’re a typist of a certain vintage there’s a good chance you’ve never actually typed on a really nice keyboard. Those that didn’t start using computers until the mid-to-late 1990s most likely have always typed on modern mushy-key keyboards and never known the joy of typing on a really responsive and crisp mechanical keyboard. Is our preference for and love of mechanical keyboards shining through here? Good. We’re not even going to try and hide it. So where does the CODE keyboard stack up in pantheon of keyboards? Read on as we walk you through the simple setup and our experience using the CODE. Setting Up the CODE Keyboard Although the setup of the CODE keyboard is essentially plug and play, there are two distinct setup steps that you likely haven’t had to perform on a previous keyboard. Both highlight the degree of care put into the keyboard and the amount of customization available. Inside the box you’ll find the keyboard, a micro USB cable, a USB-to-PS2 adapter, and a tool which you may be unfamiliar with: a key puller. We’ll return to the key puller in a moment. Unlike the majority of keyboards on the market, the cord isn’t permanently affixed to the keyboard. What does this mean for you? Aside from the obvious need to plug it in yourself, it makes it dead simple to repair your own keyboard cord if it gets attacked by a pet, mangled in a mechanism on your desk, or otherwise damaged. It also makes it easy to take advantage of the cable routing channels in on the underside of the keyboard to  route your cable exactly where you want it. While we’re staring at the underside of the keyboard, check out those beefy rubber feet. By peripherals standards they’re huge (and there is six instead of the usual four). Once you plunk the keyboard down where you want it, it might as well be glued down the rubber feet work so well. After you’ve secured the cable and adjusted it to your liking, there is one more task  before plug the keyboard into the computer. On the bottom left-hand side of the keyboard, you’ll find a small recess in the plastic with some dip switches inside: The dip switches are there to switch hardware functions for various operating systems, keyboard layouts, and to enable/disable function keys. By toggling the dip switches you can change the keyboard from QWERTY mode to Dvorak mode and Colemak mode, the two most popular alternative keyboard configurations. You can also use the switches to enable Mac-functionality (for Command/Option keys). One of our favorite little toggles is the SW3 dip switch: you can disable the Caps Lock key; goodbye accidentally pressing Caps when you mean to press Shift. You can review the entire dip switch configuration chart here. The quick-start for Windows users is simple: double check that all the switches are in the off position (as seen in the photo above) and then simply toggle SW6 on to enable the media and backlighting function keys (this turns the menu key on the keyboard into a function key as typically found on laptop keyboards). After adjusting the dip switches to your liking, plug the keyboard into an open USB port on your computer (or into your PS/2 port using the included adapter). Design, Layout, and Backlighting The CODE keyboard comes in two flavors, a traditional 87-key layout (no number pad) and a traditional 104-key layout (number pad on the right hand side). We identify the layout as traditional because, despite some modern trapping and sneaky shortcuts, the actual form factor of the keyboard from the shape of the keys to the spacing and position is as classic as it comes. You won’t have to learn a new keyboard layout and spend weeks conditioning yourself to a smaller than normal backspace key or a PgUp/PgDn pair in an unconventional location. Just because the keyboard is very conventional in layout, however, doesn’t mean you’ll be missing modern amenities like media-control keys. The following additional functions are hidden in the F11, F12, Pause button, and the 2×6 grid formed by the Insert and Delete rows: keyboard illumination brightness, keyboard illumination on/off, mute, and then the typical play/pause, forward/backward, stop, and volume +/- in Insert and Delete rows, respectively. While we weren’t sure what we’d think of the function-key system at first (especially after retiring a Microsoft Sidewinder keyboard with a huge and easily accessible volume knob on it), it took less than a day for us to adapt to using the Fn key, located next to the right Ctrl key, to adjust our media playback on the fly. Keyboard backlighting is a largely hit-or-miss undertaking but the CODE keyboard nails it. Not only does it have pleasant and easily adjustable through-the-keys lighting but the key switches the keys themselves are attached to are mounted to a steel plate with white paint. Enough of the light reflects off the interior cavity of the keys and then diffuses across the white plate to provide nice even illumination in between the keys. Highlighting the steel plate beneath the keys brings us to the actual construction of the keyboard. It’s rock solid. The 87-key model, the one we tested, is 2.0 pounds. The 104-key is nearly a half pound heavier at 2.42 pounds. Between the steel plate, the extra-thick PCB board beneath the steel plate, and the thick ABS plastic housing, the keyboard has very solid feel to it. Combine that heft with the previously mentioned thick rubber feet and you have a tank-like keyboard that won’t budge a millimeter during normal use. Examining The Keys This is the section of the review the hardcore typists and keyboard ninjas have been waiting for. We’ve looked at the layout of the keyboard, we’ve looked at the general construction of it, but what about the actual keys? There are a wide variety of keyboard construction techniques but the vast majority of modern keyboards use a rubber-dome construction. The key is floated in a plastic frame over a rubber membrane that has a little rubber dome for each key. The press of the physical key compresses the rubber dome downwards and a little bit of conductive material on the inside of the dome’s apex connects with the circuit board. Despite the near ubiquity of the design, many people dislike it. The principal complaint is that dome keyboards require a complete compression to register a keystroke; keyboard designers and enthusiasts refer to this as “bottoming out”. In other words, the register the “b” key, you need to completely press that key down. As such it slows you down and requires additional pressure and movement that, over the course of tens of thousands of keystrokes, adds up to a whole lot of wasted time and fatigue. The CODE keyboard features key switches manufactured by Cherry, a company that has manufactured key switches since the 1960s. Specifically the CODE features Cherry MX Clear switches. These switches feature the same classic design of the other Cherry switches (such as the MX Blue and Brown switch lineups) but they are significantly quieter (yes this is a mechanical keyboard, but no, your neighbors won’t think you’re firing off a machine gun) as they lack the audible click found in most Cherry switches. This isn’t to say that they keyboard doesn’t have a nice audible key press sound when the key is fully depressed, but that the key mechanism isn’t doesn’t create a loud click sound when triggered. One of the great features of the Cherry MX clear is a tactile “bump” that indicates the key has been compressed enough to register the stroke. For touch typists the very subtle tactile feedback is a great indicator that you can move on to the next stroke and provides a welcome speed boost. Even if you’re not trying to break any word-per-minute records, that little bump when pressing the key is satisfying. The Cherry key switches, in addition to providing a much more pleasant typing experience, are also significantly more durable than dome-style key switch. Rubber dome switch membrane keyboards are typically rated for 5-10 million contacts whereas the Cherry mechanical switches are rated for 50 million contacts. You’d have to write the next War and Peace  and follow that up with A Tale of Two Cities: Zombie Edition, and then turn around and transcribe them both into a dozen different languages to even begin putting a tiny dent in the lifecycle of this keyboard. So what do the switches look like under the classicly styled keys? You can take a look yourself with the included key puller. Slide the loop between the keys and then gently beneath the key you wish to remove: Wiggle the key puller gently back and forth while exerting a gentle upward pressure to pop the key off; You can repeat the process for every key, if you ever find yourself needing to extract piles of cat hair, Cheeto dust, or other foreign objects from your keyboard. There it is, the naked switch, the source of that wonderful crisp action with the tactile bump on each keystroke. The last feature worthy of a mention is the N-key rollover functionality of the keyboard. This is a feature you simply won’t find on non-mechanical keyboards and even gaming keyboards typically only have any sort of key roller on the high-frequency keys like WASD. So what is N-key rollover and why do you care? On a typical mass-produced rubber-dome keyboard you cannot simultaneously press more than two keys as the third one doesn’t register. PS/2 keyboards allow for unlimited rollover (in other words you can’t out type the keyboard as all of your keystrokes, no matter how fast, will register); if you use the CODE keyboard with the PS/2 adapter you gain this ability. If you don’t use the PS/2 adapter and use the native USB, you still get 6-key rollover (and the CTRL, ALT, and SHIFT don’t count towards the 6) so realistically you still won’t be able to out type the computer as even the more finger twisting keyboard combos and high speed typing will still fall well within the 6-key rollover. The rollover absolutely doesn’t matter if you’re a slow hunt-and-peck typist, but if you’ve read this far into a keyboard review there’s a good chance that you’re a serious typist and that kind of quality construction and high-number key rollover is a fantastic feature.  The Good, The Bad, and the Verdict We’ve put the CODE keyboard through the paces, we’ve played games with it, typed articles with it, left lengthy comments on Reddit, and otherwise used and abused it like we would any other keyboard. The Good: The construction is rock solid. In an emergency, we’re confident we could use the keyboard as a blunt weapon (and then resume using it later in the day with no ill effect on the keyboard). The Cherry switches are an absolute pleasure to type on; the Clear variety found in the CODE keyboard offer a really nice middle-ground between the gun-shot clack of a louder mechanical switch and the quietness of a lesser-quality dome keyboard without sacrificing quality. Touch typists will love the subtle tactile bump feedback. Dip switch system makes it very easy for users on different systems and with different keyboard layout needs to switch between operating system and keyboard layouts. If you’re investing a chunk of change in a keyboard it’s nice to know you can take it with you to a different operating system or “upgrade” it to a new layout if you decide to take up Dvorak-style typing. The backlighting is perfect. You can adjust it from a barely-visible glow to a blazing light-up-the-room brightness. Whatever your intesity preference, the white-coated steel backplate does a great job diffusing the light between the keys. You can easily remove the keys for cleaning (or to rearrange the letters to support a new keyboard layout). The weight of the unit combined with the extra thick rubber feet keep it planted exactly where you place it on the desk. The Bad: While you’re getting your money’s worth, the $150 price tag is a shock when compared to the $20-60 price tags you find on lower-end keyboards. People used to large dedicated media keys independent of the traditional key layout (such as the large buttons and volume controls found on many modern keyboards) might be off put by the Fn-key style media controls on the CODE. The Verdict: The keyboard is clearly and heavily influenced by the needs of serious typists. Whether you’re a programmer, transcriptionist, or just somebody that wants to leave the lengthiest article comments the Internet has ever seen, the CODE keyboard offers a rock solid typing experience. Yes, $150 isn’t pocket change, but the quality of the CODE keyboard is so high and the typing experience is so enjoyable, you’re easily getting ten times the value you’d get out of purchasing a lesser keyboard. Even compared to other mechanical keyboards on the market, like the Das Keyboard, you’re still getting more for your money as other mechanical keyboards don’t come with the lovely-to-type-on Cherry MX Clear switches, back lighting, and hardware-based operating system keyboard layout switching. If it’s in your budget to upgrade your keyboard (especially if you’ve been slogging along with a low-end rubber-dome keyboard) there’s no good reason to not pickup a CODE keyboard. Key animation courtesy of Geekhack.org user Lethal Squirrel.       

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  • LEGO Lord of the Rings Cut Scenes Spliced into a Full Length Movie [Video]

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    If you take all the cut scenes from the LEGO Lord of the Rings video game and splice them end-to-end, the result is an hour and a half LEGO Lord of the Rings movie. Check out the full video here. Courtesy of SpaceTopGames, this mega splice includes every cut scene from the video game, weighs in at one hour and thirty one minutes, and actually works really well as a movie when strung all together. LEGO Lord of the Rings – All Cutscenes [via Freeware Genius] HTG Explains: Does Your Android Phone Need an Antivirus? How To Use USB Drives With the Nexus 7 and Other Android Devices Why Does 64-Bit Windows Need a Separate “Program Files (x86)” Folder?

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  • Ask How-To Geek: Learning the Office Ribbon, Booting to USB with an Old BIOS, and Snapping Windows

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    You’ve got questions and we’ve got answers. Today we highlight how to master the new Office interface, USB boot a computer with outdated BIOS, and snap windows to preset locations. Learning the New Office Ribbon Dear How-To Geek, I feel silly asking this (in light of how long the new Office interface has been out) but my company finally got around to upgrading from Windows XP and Office 2000 so the new interface it totally new to me. Can you recommend any resources for quickly learning the Office ribbon and the new changes? I feel completely lost after two decades of the old Office interface. Help! Sincerely, Where the Hell is Everything? Dear Where the Hell, We think most people were with you at some point in the last few years. “Where the hell is…” could possibly be the slogan for the new ribbon interface. You could browse through some of the dry tutorials online or even get a weighty book on the topic but the best way to learn something new is to get hands on. Ribbon Hero turns learning the new Office features and ribbon layout into a game. It’s no vigorous round of Team Fortress mind you, but it’s significantly more fun than reading a training document. Check out how to install and configure Ribbon Hero here. You’ll be teaching your coworkers new tricks in no time. Boot via USB with an Old BIOS Dear How-To Geek, I’m trying to repurpose some old computers by updating them with lightweight Linux distros but the BIOS on most of the machines is ancient and creaky. How ancient? It doesn’t even support booting from a USB device! I have a large flash drive that I’ve turned into a master installation tool for jobs like this but I can’t use it. The computers in question have USB ports; they just aren’t recognized during the boot process. What can I do? USB Bootin’ in Boise Dear USB Bootin’, It’s great you’re working to breathe life into old hardware! You’ve run into one of the limitations of older BIOSes, USB was around but nobody was thinking about booting off of it. Fortunately if you have a computer old enough to have that kind of BIOS it’s likely to also has a floppy drive or a CDROM drive. While you could make a bootable CDROM for your application we understand that you want to keep using the master USB installer you’ve made. In light of that we recommend PLoP Boot Manager. Think of it like a boot manager for your boot manager. Using it you can create a bootable floppy or CDROM that will enable USB booting of your master USB drive. Make a CD and a floppy version and you’ll have everything in your toolkit you need for future computer refurbishing projects. Read up on creating bootable media with PLoP Boot Manager here. Snapping Windows to Preset Coordinates Dear How-To Geek, Once upon a time I had a company laptop that came with a little utility that snapped windows to preset areas of the screen. This was long before the snap-to-side features in Windows 7. You could essentially configure your screen into a grid pattern of your choosing and then windows would neatly snap into those grids. I have no idea what it was called or if was anymore than a gimmick from the computer manufacturer, but I’d really like to have it on my new computer! Bend and Snap in San Francisco, Dear Bend and Snap, If we had to guess, we’d guess your company must have had a set of laptops from Acer as the program you’re describing sounds exactly like Acer GridVista. Fortunately for you the application was extremely popular and Acer released it independently of their hardware. If, by chance, you’ve since upgraded to a multiple monitor setup the app even supports multiple monitors—many of the configurations are handy for arranging IM windows and other auxiliary communication tools. Check out our guide to installing and configuring Acer GridVista here for more information. Have a question you want to put before the How-To Geek staff? Shoot us an email at [email protected] and then keep an eye out for a solution in the Ask How-To Geek column. Latest Features How-To Geek ETC How to Upgrade Windows 7 Easily (And Understand Whether You Should) The How-To Geek Guide to Audio Editing: Basic Noise Removal Install a Wii Game Loader for Easy Backups and Fast Load Times The Best of CES (Consumer Electronics Show) in 2011 The Worst of CES (Consumer Electronics Show) in 2011 HTG Projects: How to Create Your Own Custom Papercraft Toy Download the New Year in Japan Windows 7 Theme from Microsoft Once More Unto the Breach – Facebook Apps Can Now Access Your Address and Phone Number Dial Zero Speeds You Through Annoying Customer Service Menus Complete Dropquest 2011 and Receive Free Dropbox Storage Desktop Computer versus Laptop Wallpaper The Kids Have No Idea What Old Tech Is [Video]

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  • Video Games from the Bad Guys’ Perspective [Video]

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    We’re so used to seeing video games from our perspective–the hero with the endless power ups and do-overs–but how does the video game world look from the perspective of the bad guys? Rather grim and confusing, as the video above highlights. [via Geekosystem] How to Banish Duplicate Photos with VisiPic How to Make Your Laptop Choose a Wired Connection Instead of Wireless HTG Explains: What Is Two-Factor Authentication and Should I Be Using It?

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  • Ask How-To Geek: Dropbox in the Start Menu, Understanding Symlinks, and Ripping TV Series DVDs

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    This week we take a look at how to incorporate Dropbox into your Windows Start Menu, understanding and using symbolic links, and how to rip your TV series DVDs right to unique and high-quality episode files. Once a week we dip into our reader mailbag and help readers solve their problems, sharing the useful solutions with you in the process. Read on to see our fixes for this week’s reader dilemmas. Add Drobox to Your Start Menu Dear How-To Geek, I use Dropbox all the time and would like to add it right onto my start menu along side the other major shortcuts like Documents, Pictures, etc. It seems like adding Dropbox into the menu should be part of the Dropbox installation package! Sincerely, Dropboxing in Des Moines Dear Dropboxing, We agree, it would be a nice installation option. As it stands you’re going to have to do a little simple hacking to get Dropbox nestled neatly into your start menu. The hack isn’t super elegant but when you’re done you’ll have the link you want and it’ll look like it was there all along. Check out this step-by-step guide here in order to take an existing Library shortcut and rework it to be a Dropbox link. Understanding and Using Symbolic Links Dear How-To Geek, I was talking to a coworker the other day about an issue I’d been having with a media center application I’m running. He suggested using symbolic links to better organize my media and make it easier for the application to access my collection. I had no idea what he was talking about and never got a chance to bug him about it later. Can you clear up this whole symbolic links business for me? I’ve been using computers for years and I’ve never even heard of it! Sincerely, Symbolic Who? Dear Symbolic, Symbolic links aren’t commonly used by many Windows users which is why you likely haven’t run into the concept. Symbolic links are essentially supercharged shortcuts—the newly introduced Windows library system is really just a type of symbolic link system. You can use symbolic links to do all sorts of neat stuff like link folders to your Dropbox folder, organize media, and more. The concept of symbolic links is pretty simple but the execution can be really tricky. We’d suggest reading over our guide to creating symbolic links in Windows 7, Windows XP, and Ubunutu to get a clearer idea what you’re getting into. Rip Your TV DVDs into Handy Episode Files Dear How-To Geek, My wife got me an iPod for Christmas and I still haven’t got around to filling it up. I have tons of entire TV show seasons on DVD and would like to get them on the iPod but I have absolutely no idea where to start. How do I get the shows off the discs? I thought it would be as easy to import the TV shows into iTunes as it is to import tracks off a CD but I was totally wrong. I tried downloading some applications to rip them but those didn’t work at all. Very frustrating! Surely there is an easy and/or automated way to do this, right? Sincerely, Free My DVDs Dear DVDs, Oh man is this a frustration we can relate to. It’s inordinately difficult to get movies and TV shows off physical media and into digital (and portable media player-friendly) formats. There are a multitude of ways to rip DVDs and quite a few applications out there (some good, some mediocre, and some outright malware). We’d recommend a two-part punch to solve your ripping woes. You’ll need a copy of DVDFab to strip away the protections on the discs and rip the disc and Handbrake to load the disc image and convert the files. It’s not quite as smooth as the CD-to-iTunes workflow but it’s still pretty easy. Check out all the steps and settings you’ll want to toggle here. Have a question you want to put before the How-To Geek staff? Shoot us an email at [email protected] and then keep an eye out for a solution in the Ask How-To Geek column. Latest Features How-To Geek ETC Internet Explorer 9 RC Now Available: Here’s the Most Interesting New Stuff Here’s a Super Simple Trick to Defeating Fake Anti-Virus Malware How to Change the Default Application for Android Tasks Stop Believing TV’s Lies: The Real Truth About "Enhancing" Images The How-To Geek Valentine’s Day Gift Guide Inspire Geek Love with These Hilarious Geek Valentines Google’s New Personal Blocklist Extension Kills Search Engine Spam KeyCounter Tracks Your Keystrokes and Mouse Clicks Add Custom LED Ambient Lighting to Your PC or Media Center The Trackor Monitors Amazon Prices; Integrates with Chrome, Firefox, and Safari Four Awesome TRON Legacy Themes for Chrome and Iron Anger is Illogical – Old School Style Instructional Video [Star Trek Mashup]

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