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• OpenVPN and TomatoVPN

  - by Bill Johnson

  Wondering if someone can help me with the following. I have updated my Linksys router with TomatoVPN and used the following config: Interface Type:TAP Protocol:UDP Port:1195 Firewall Custom Authorization Mode:Static Key I have then inserted the static key generated in OpenVPN saved and started the service. connect.ovpn. # Use the following to have your client computer send all traffic through your router # (remote gateway) remote (entered my DNS/DHCP servers external IP address here) port 1195 dev tap secret static.key.txt proto udp comp-lzo route-gateway 192.168.1.1 redirect-gateway float I've then placed my static key in a file in the same directory as your connect.ovpn (static.key.txt) Now OpenVPN is installed on a laptop that I use at home. I have plugged in the laptop to my home connection and started connect.ovpn The Local Area Connection is connected as 'Home Network 3' - and when I start OpenVPN it is connected as 'Local Area Connection 2' and this is showing as 'Unidentified Network' and it appears there is no network access. TAP-Win32 Adapter V9 appears to be the adaptors name and the IP and DNS properties are set to automatic. If I open up the OpenVPN GUI it shows an error message saying "Connecting to connect has failed". Looking at the error message behind this pop-up one line says "TCP/UDP Socket bind failed on local address [undef]:1195 Address already in use [WSAEADDRINUSE] Could anyone possibly help me further with this please?

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• How can I use Linksys WPSM54G print server as a bridge for another machine AND also share the printe

  - by user26453

  I have a Linksys WPMS54G currently sharing a printer via the USB port with the rest of my network via the wireless. Is there any way to set it up so that the ethernet port is bridged over the wireless adapter portion? i.e., be able to uplink another machine or switch into the network via the WPMS54G's ethernet port? Update: The network architecture is as follows: (1) Linksys WRT54G router that serves as a router, DHCP server, and wireless access point for the network. Fairly standard configuration (3) Laptops that are used throughout the house via wifi (1) Linksys WPSM54G printer server that connects via wireless to the router, in a separate room with a printer attached to print seerver's USB port along with (1) Un-networked desktop in the same room Since the printer is plugged into the USB port of the WPSM54G, I am wondering if I can connect the desktop to the ethernet port of the WPSM54G and have it bridged over the wifi to the router. The twist here is that the ethernet is initially used to connect the wireless print server to the router (for configuration, can't configure it wirelessly if you are initially on a encrypted network). Now instead of using that ethernet port as a way to connect the print server to the network (via the router), I want to use the ethernet port as a way to connect another computer to the network, in effect bridging into the router via the print server, while still sharing the printer (attached via USB) through the print server. If this is not clear, please comment. To be clear, the computer I want to connect/bridge into the network does not have a wireless card, is far from the router, and I do not want to lay ethernet cable to connect it. While I could certainly buy a legitimate wireless bridge to accomplish this, I figured since the print server already has an ethernet port, see if I can't use that.

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• Everything on hard drive suddenly vanished without explanation, but the drive seems otherwise functional

  - by user160705

  Windows 7 Ultimate x64 Custom-built desktop I have a new desktop that I built a few months ago that has a four-year-old WD hard drive and a two-year-old drive. I had set it up so that the newer drive had Windows and most of my files on it while the older drive had my music library, some movies and games, and a backup of all of my documents. About a month ago, I installed some new case fans and, in the process, I temporarily unplugged my hard drive (while the computer was off of course - I took all the necessary precautions) for wire management. I plugged it back in, and didn't really think anything of it. At around that time, however, I noticed that my older hard drive wasn't showing up in Windows Explorer anymore but I didn't really have time to check into it (I had just started college) and I'm finally getting a chance to now. That drive doesn't show up in Windows Explorer at all but it does show up in Disk Management. That screen shows the following: http://puu.sh/17mMN Any idea what happened? Is there any way to recover my files? Thanks in advance for your help! EDIT: The music and games and stuff used to be on "Disc 1", the 465.71 GB of what is now showing as unallocated space.

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• Why did MAC-Adress Cloning Fix My Router?

  - by FranticPedantic

  I have a Belkin router, and about a year ago, I suddenly lost my internet connectivity from Comcast. The internet worked fine when I plugged it right into my laptop, so I just ignored it. When I moved to another apartmnet I eventually took the dive and called tech support. The tech told me to clone my MAC address which completely fixed the issue. Now I know what a MAC address is and I've read what MAC cloning is. What has bothered me since is that I don't see how this fixed the issue. As I have understood MAC address cloning, it has the router pretend it has the same MAC address as my computer. Here is why I don't understand why this fixes my issue: I have used several different computers with this router. Cloning the MAC address fixed it for ALL of my computers. The laptop I first used with my ISP was not the one that I eventually had connected when I cloned the address. Furthermore, I didn't have any problems for quite some time after I stopped using the first computer. It wasn't like the internet suddenly stopped working when I changed which laptop I was using Now it occurred to me that maybe there was some sort of expiration? Except... Which MAC address did it clone? It was just an option in the router administration page. Did it just pick whichever computer was connected to it? If my ISP still wanted the MAC of my first computer, how did some other computer's fix it? As mentioned earlier, why did this problem seemingly stem from nowhere? Anyway, I don't have any current problems so this is more just out of general curiosity. If anybody can explain it, it would be appreciated!

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• Outbound HTTP performance tuning recommendations

  - by Richard Gadsden

  I'll detail my exact setup below, but general recommendations for a better web-browsing experience will be useful. A nice checklist of things to try would be great! I have 600 users on a single site with an 8MB leased line. I get a lot of moans about the performance of "the internet" (ie web-browsing). What recommendations do the community have for speeding things up without just throwing more bandwidth at it? I expect I will end up buying some more, but good management tips are always valuable. My setup is this: Cisco PIX (515E) firewall on the edge of the network. It's just doing some basic NAT, and opening up a handful of ports to various bastion hosts (aka DMZ servers). The DMZ is just a switch that the servers are plugged into. ISA 2006 Enterprise array (two servers) connecting DMZ to the internal LAN, with WebSense Web Security filtering HTTP traffic so users can't look at porn or waste bandwidth on YouTube during working hours. I've done a few things - I've just switched my internal DNS over to use root hints, which halved DNS query latency from 500ms to 250ms. Well worth doing. I'm trying to cache more aggressively, but so much more of the internet is AJAXy and doesn't cache very well as compared to five years ago. Plus the 70GB of cache which felt like a lot a few years ago really isn't any more. I'm getting about 45% cache hits by number of requests, but only about 22% by size, ie larger objects are less likely to be cached. Latency seems to be part of the problem. Is that attributable to the bandwidth problem, or are there things I can look at to try to reduce latency even on heavily-loaded bandwidth?

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• How do multiple displays work on a AMD 785G / ATI HD 4200 motherboard?

  - by aireq

  I just ordered a ASUS M4A785TD-V EVO which has the AMD 785G chipset and HD4200 integrated graphic. The board has VGA, DVI, and HDMI outputs. I'm wondering how many outputs I can run at once, and from what connectors? My guess is that I can only use the VGA, and either the DVI or the HDMI in a dual setup. But not the HDMI and the DVI at the same time. Is this correct? If I have devices plugged into both the HDMI and the DVI ports is there a way to choose between which port I want to use? I have a dual 19" monitor setup, as well as a LCD TV. I'd like to run the VGA and the DVI into my two monitors, and then the HDMI to my TV. Then when I want to watch something on the TV I'd like to be able to switch over from the DVI to the HDMI. Is this possible with out crawling under my desk and unplugging/plugging things in? Update I found the following in the manual off ASUS's website, which confirms my original suspicion that HDMI and DVI can't be used at the same time. But I'd still like to know if it's possible through software to switch between using the HDMI and DVI.

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• Force dual-mono audio (L+L or R+R) in Youtube video playback for one-channel audio movies

  - by jakub.g

  Occasionally, I find Youtube videos that have only one audio channel (only left or only right); example video (left channel only). This is quite annoying, especially with headphones on, as I hear sound in one ear, and no sound in the other. So, I want to be able to easily force dual mono (Left+Left or Right+Right) when I find that kind of video, and switch to normal stereo after I finish watching it. I have my headphones plugged well / I don't create audio/video - I want it for real-time playback only, In Windows audio config, setting balance 100% to Left / Right doesn't help (I have either still only left when moved to left, and no sound at all when moved to right), I've checked all the configurations in Control Panel > Sounds and Audio Devices > Audio > Sound Playback > Advanced like suggested in this post, in conjunction with moving balance left/right, and it doesn't seem to have any impact on actual sound I hear in headphones, No need to mix L with R, I just want L+L or R+R, I prefer software solutions to buying a stereo-to-mono adapter, Free solutions please, no $$$ ones, neither trials etc., In Control Panel > Realtek HD Sound Effect Manager I can turn on various mumbo-jumbo effects like: Concert Hall / Hangar / Bathroom / whatever environment (and in fact it makes the sound appear in two ears, but well, it's ridiculous to do this;), but there is no Dual Mono option. Finally, I know I can force L+L or R+R in VLC Player which supports Youtube (well, a little hack is needed, because Youtube internals change from time to time) but it is not very convenient to launch VLC just to play Youtube video - I want to keep it in the browser, I use Firefox generally (but well, if I don't find easier way, I will launch it in VLC).

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• Network cabling with multiple patch panels?

  - by dannymcc

  I am in the very early stages of planning a network cabling upgrade in our office, mainly to upgrade the old cables from Cat5 to either 5e or 6. I am also planning on upgrading all of our 10/100 switches to 10/100/1000 switches. I would like to have three small wall mounted cabinets spread around the building, each with a patch panel and switch. These would all lead back to our server room. The question is; should I have two patch panels in each wall cabinet, one with 24 or 48 ports that are connected to a matching patch panel in the server room. The second patch panel would then link to each device in that cabinets area. Then I wouldn't put a switch in the small cabinets. All switching would be done in the server room. Or, should I have one main cable from the server room to each of the cabinets - plugged straight into the switch and the patch panel is for devices in the cabinets area? I hope that makes sense!

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• MacBook Pro battery capacity 65K mAh

  - by Alexander Gladysh

  I have a 15" MacBook Pro 3.1 (that is Late 2007 model AFAIR). I've bought it new a couple of years ago. Recently its on-battery power lifespan became very short (30 to 10 minutes). When my notebook turns itself off due to "low battery" and I press the small button on the battery itself, all LED lights are alight, indicating full charge. When I plug in the power adapter, my Mac displays that "battery is fully charged, finishing charging process" (I have a Russian OS X 10.5.7, so that is a rough translation), but the LEDs on battery itself display (seemingly accurate) status that there are one or two "LEDs still not charged". My battery have as few as 37 recharge cycles (yes, I've neglected calibration over the time I've used it). Battery info programs like iBatt2 report battery capacity of 65 337 mAh (with by-design capacity of 5600 mAh). I get it that something went wrong with battery electronics. I've tried resetting my Mac's PRAM and SMC, it did not changed anything. Now I'm trying to recalibrate the battery, but looks like it does not help as well. Will try to recalibrate it several times in a row. I'd buy a new battery if I knew if it is battery fault, not a notebook's. Any suggestions? Update: After recalibration, my battery status now displays battery capacity of 1500 mAh. But with every recalibration (or simply when I use notebook without power adapter plugged in) this number changes in the range from 200 mAh to 1700 mAh. LEDs on battery now are synchronous with what nodebook thinks on the charge level. Also I've noticed that cycle count changes rather slowly. It is now 39, it was 37 when I've started recalibration, and I went through the process at least ten times... So, the main question is: does it look like that replacing the battery would help me (or does it look like this is notebook's problem)? I guess I should try replacing the battery.

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• Weird mouse/keyboard freezups when using PowerPoint 2007 with IBM/Lenovo docking station

  - by DanM

  I'm not sure what part of my system is responsible for this, but when using PowerPoint, I have problems when trying to resize drawing objects. I'll be dragging the handle and suddenly, the object will deselect and whatever is behind the object will select and start moving around. Next thing I know, the keyboard won't type anymore, and the only way to fix it is to unplug the USB and plug it back in. In case it's hardware related, I'm using an IMB Thinkpad T60P in a docking station. My keyboard is a Microsoft Natural Keyboard Pro. My OS is Windows XP SP3. I've never noticed this happening in anything besides PowerPoint, and I don't know anyone else who has this problem (even people with similar setups). Any ideas what it could be? Edit Well, it looks like I only get the problem if I plug the mouse into my docking station's USB. If I plug directly into the laptop's USB, everything works fine. And, again, this problem is only with PowerPoint. I tried playing with some drawing objects in Word and had no issue no matter where my mouse was plugged in. I should also mention I tried a different mouse (a standard Microsoft corded mouse instead of my Logitech trackball), but that made no difference. So, I don't think it's anything specific with the trackball or the trackball's driver. I tried searching Google but came up empty, so I'm guessing this problem is something unique to my setup. If you have any thoughts or ideas to try, I'd love to hear them.

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• award phoenix bios not recognizing my sata hdd.

  - by josh

  What am I doing wrong? I have a custom built comp with a Fatal1ty AA8XE mobo. It has 4 SATA ports and one IDE port. When i first got it, I had a really hard time putting in more than one hard drive. Right now i have one 120gb IDE HDD on master and my DVD+-RW on slave connected to the one IDE spot on the mobo. I ripped a bunch of movies and filled up my HDD, so I got a WD 80gb SATA drive. I plugged it into SATA1 and hooked up the power, turned on comp, went into bios. The only thing in any option in any of the menues in this crazy lookin bios is a thing that says "SATA mode". i put it on IDE, set it so PATA is primary, SATA is secondary. booted up my comp, nothin. Not recognizing the SATA. I went back into the bios and checked it all again. I saw that it says SATA2 and SATA4 are the secondaries so i put it on SATA2, booted, nothing, same with SATA4, same with SATA3, all same as SATA1. Bios and wt os are not recognizing the drive as being there at all. I even downloaded and printed the almost 100 page manual for the mobo, read the entire thing, and still can't figure it out. I know there are a lot of people out there smarter than me when it comes to computers. So please, somebody, anybody, please tell me something that I'm not seeing. Some setting somewhere that I didn't configure right. There is something, obviously, but I can't find it. As far as i can tell, everything is set perfectly fine for my 120gb to be the master and the SATA to be the slave. I don't know what I'm doing wrong but I'm seriously about to throw this computer out the window. thankyou in advance to whoever attempts to help.

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• Building new computer, turns on, but no post

  - by addybojangles

  Pardon my ignorance here, finally decided to put together a computer and egads. I purchased a new motherboard, power supply, processor, video card and memory. ASUS M4A79XTD EVO AM3 AMD 790X ATX AMD Motherboard OCZ Fatal1ty OCZ550FTY 550W ATX12V v2.2 / EPS12V SLI Ready 80 PLUS Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition Deneb 3.4GHz 4 x 512KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache Socket AM3 125W Quad-Core Processor XFX HD-577A-ZNFC Radeon HD 5770 (Juniper XT) 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBNQ (originally had links for you guys, but I lack the rep, sorry!!) And I've got it all in the tower. I put in power supply, installed processor on motherboard, installed heatsink, put in ram, and I am using an older IDE hard disk. When I start the computer, the monitor tells me "check signal cable." As far as I can tell, the heatsink on the processor is spinning, the power supply is on (obviously), and the green LED on the motherboard is on. I originally only had the bigger output plugged in to the motherboard (what I saw in a YouTube vid as well as the mobo instructions), but after doing some research, it said plug in the other ATX power supply. Which I did. And trying to power the computer results in nothing. No beeps on startup, no post, anyone have any ideas? Your ideas and help is greatly appreciated.

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• Network corruption - corrupt downloads, corrupt streams, etc.

  - by rfrankel

  I've been having some problems with my home LAN. Downloaded executables won't run, my remote desktop sessions keep getting interrupted due to encryption errors, flash video streams show visible corruption (both Hulu and YouTube), and I've had a couple downloads for which the md5 hashes don't match. The problem has even occurred with a couple images embedded in webpages, though that's rare enough (presumably because images are relatively smaller files). I've had this problem across two Windows machines and a Mac, so it's neither machine-specific nor at the app or OS level. Comcast claims it's nothing to do with them, and my Linksys/Cisco RV016 router is out of warranty, so I have no access to official support. When I log into my router, it shows no error packets or dropped packets received. I plugged a laptop directly into the router and was able to download a 5.5 MB file and verify its MD5 hash, which is not proof that the problem is downstream of the router, but makes it seem quite likely, since I failed to download the same file several times from two desktops (one Mac, one Windows). Could this be a wiring problem? If so, is there any way clever/elegant to determine which wiring is faulty with just software? If I can avoid tracing all the wires throughout my entire house it would make my life quite a bit easier.

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• Acer Laptop does not power up after repairing DC power jack

  - by Misbah Mashkoor

  I have an Acer travelmate laptop which (by mistake) I dropped on the floor with the power jack side down, with the charger connected and it broke the DC jack from the inside of the laptop. Then I unscrewed the laptop and soldered the DC jack back and then plugged it in and switched on the laptop without the batteries. It did switch on, that was before screwing everything back. Then after assembling the whole thing back it does not power up. So I disassembled it again and just took the part which contained the DC jack (My laptop is like in two parts one contains the power jack which then sits on some pins on the main PCB) to a technician and he said that if you had connected this to a motherboard then it would have burnt cause the soldering was not right. And then I checked with my laptop again by connecting everything the light (the charging light) comes on when I connect the power but it does not switch on. Right now nothing is connected to the laptop; no HD, CD ROM, RAM , Battery. Nothing! Even then it does not power up. Any suggestions?

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• Reviving a dead laptop battery

  - by Alex Ciminian

  Is there any way to revive a dead laptop battery? I have a three year old Dell Latitude laptop that I've been using pretty intensively. After a year or so, the battery dropped dead - if I plug the laptop out it goes into hibernation in a matter of seconds. Probably this was because I kept working on it plugged in all the time, but back then I didn't realize what effect it could have (this was my first laptop). Currently, I'm searching for a new laptop and I was thinking if there was something I could do to get the battery back working. I've found several links (sorry, I'm a new user so I can't post them) about freezing Li-ion batteries, but the opinions seem to mixed - some say that it worked for them, some not. If you've tried the freezing technique please let me know if it works. Or if you know another way to make a dead battery work again, please share here. I've already seen this thread, but I'm not very handy with soldering. If it's the only alternative I'll try it, but there's a big chance that I'll screw it up. Thanks!

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• Can I attach a VPN firewall to an existing network and have it manage VPN connections?

  - by jules

  I'm quite new to networking and am trying to set up my first VPN connection. The Situation: I have been contracted for some programming at a facility some distance from my location. I would like to be able to set up a simple VPN connection to their network so that I may make adjustments without significant travel. Their Current Network: Six devices (one I need to connect to) plugged into a basic router (Dlink). This router has an internet connection and a static ip address. My Hopeful (questionable) Proposal: I attach a VPN Firewall I happen to own (Netgear FVS318) as device number seven on the client network. I disable routing / DHCP in the Netgear. I forward the appropriate IPSec ports from the Dlink to the Netgear. I then create a VPN connection on my office Windows 7 machine to the remote network. The request is forwarded from the Dlink to the Netgear where the VPN connection is authenticated. I now have a remote-access connection from my office PC to the client's local network. The Question: Will this proposal work? If not, would another possibility be to attach a computer with a VPN server to the client network? Also, as a note: the client has requested I not replace their router or place mine in-between theirs and the internet :( Thanks very much!

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• Can't connect two PCs to a Network Switch at the same time (Windows 7)

  - by puk

  I have two computers connected to a network switch and every once in a while one of the computers will lose its internet connection. It's almost always the same computer every time. However, if I play around with the control panel, I can switch it, so that now the other computer is not connected. Restarting either of the computers does not help either. In Windows, the worlds-greatest-trouble-shooter tells me that a network cable is unplugged and that I should try plugging it in...Disabling and re-enabling my NIC does not fix this problem, neither does swapping cables around. When rebooting, the BIOS complains about how the Ethernet Cable is not plugged in. If it's in any way important, My set up at the office is like so: Modem - Routher - Network Switch 1 - Network Switch 2. I have tried turning off the energy saving option for my NIC, and I tried manually setting the link-speed to 100Mbps Full Duplex without any luck. Also, I have a Realtek PCIe GBE Family controller on both computers Does anyone have any idea why this is happening every 5-10 days? EDIT: I have also tried using a completely different Network Switch and the problem still persists as before.

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• Ntop monitoring - Hosts visible with no SPAN/mirroring

  - by Cory J

  I am attempting to use ntop to monitor traffic over a Cisco Catalyst switch. I was assuming that in order to see any of the traffic, I'd have to use monitor, as described here: http://www.cisco.com/en/US/products/hw/switches/ps708/products_tech_note09186a008015c612.shtml. Howver, before I did anything on the switch, I simply plugged my ntop server in and fired up ntop. To my suprise, I instantly see 3+ pages of hosts, and thousands of packets. How is ntop seeing this? I have verified that no monitoring exists on the switch (run as en): cs1.pvdc#show monitor No SPAN configuration is present in the system. My ntop server is Ubuntu 8.04, I haven't done ANY configuration, I just installed the ntop package. This is also a fresh Ubuntu install. Is there anything else on my switch besides "monitor" that might cause my switch to mirror all its traffic like this? I've tried plugging ntop into different ports with the same results. UPDATE: It appears to be more then just broadcast traffic showing up in ntop, for example, I can see when my IPs have talked to the DNS server or generated HTTP traffic. If my switch is misconfigured, can anyone point me in the right direction towards rectify this? Not a Cisco expert.

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• How to plug power/reset buttons from case to motherboard leads?

  - by MaxMackie

  I have a motherboard I salvaged from a pre-assembled computer. Except now I'm trying to use it in my own custom build. The problem is, this motherboard doesn't have any documentation because it was never meant to be used by consumers (as far as I know). I need to plug in my case's power/reset/hdd-light plugs into the motherboard. I usually check the documentation of the board to see which leads go to what connector, but I have no documentation for the board. So, as I see it, I have two options: I find the documentation (I've emailed gateway customer service, but I'm unsure of how successful I'll be with that). I simply test the leads one after the other (can this cause damage if plugged into the wrong leads?) However, there might even be a standard for which leads do what action (I'm not sure about this). For reference, my motherboard's SN/MD (?) is: H57M01G1-1.1-8EKS3H Does anyone have any idea if I can find documentation or find another way to be sure if my connections are correct?

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• laptop motherboard "shorts" when connected to adapter

  - by Bash

  Disclaimer: I'm sort of a noob, and this is a long post. Thank you all in advance! summary: completely dead laptop with no signs of life whatsoever (suddenly, for no apparent reason) Here's the deal: Lenovo Y470 (only a few months old with no water or shock damage). It stopped working suddenly (no lights, no sound, even when connecting adapter with or without battery). I tried a different adapter (same electrical rating), but no luck. I disassembled the thing completely, and tried plugging in the adapter and looking for signs of life with all different combinations of components installed (tried all combinations of RAM, CPU, USB power cords, screen, etc plugged in). no luck. Then, I noticed (as I was plugging in the adapter to try for the millionth time) that there was a "spark" for an instant when I first connect the adapter to the power jack. The adapter's LED would then flash (indicating it isn't working or charging). So, I thought the power jack has a short of some sort (due to bad soldering or something). Scanned virtually every single component on the motherboard, and tested the power jack connections with a multimeter. No shorts or damage to anything on the entire motherboard. Now I'm thinking I need to replace the motherboard. But, my actual question: What does this "shorting" when connecting the adapter signify? (btw, the voltage across the power connections and current through it drop to virtually zero when the adapter is connected and "sparks", and they stay that way). The bewildering thing is that there are no damaged components, and the voltage across adapter terminals returns to normal after I disconnect it (so it's not damaged). Please take a look at the pictures (of the motherboard's power connection and nearby components) and see if I'm missing something completely obvious... Links to pictures and laptop and motherboard model: pictures on DropBox Motherboard model: LA-6881P Laptop model: Lenovo IdeaPad Y470

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• VPN Device behind router/firewall

  - by David Steven

  ROUTER A: Peplink 310 serving as the gateway/router/firewall at one location. ROUTER B: Linksys RV082 serving as the gateway/router/firewall at another location. I want to VPN these two locations together. The Peplink has a PPTP server and has proprietary site-to-site vpn if you had another peplink device. The Linksys has an IPsec vpn server. VPN A: I also have another spare linksys rv082. I'm trying to setup the other rv082 (VPN A) behind the peplink (ROUTER A) and get VPN A to talk to ROUTER B. I setup VPN A with a lan ip address and plugged one of it's LAN ports into the LAN. I was able to get to it's web interface fine. On ROUTER A I one-to-one nat mapped one of our public ip's to the LAN IP for VPN A. I opened TCP 50-51 and UDP 500 to VPN A. I configured the VPN settings on VPN A to connect to ROUTER B. I did the opposite for ROUTER B. But the vpn doesn't connect. Then I tried pluging VPN A's wan port into the lan, and gave it another LAN IP. I thought perpahs VPN A didn't want to send VPN traffic out over the LAN and wanted do send it over it's WAN. The vpn still doesn't connect. It what I'm trying to do even possible?

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• ASUS N56VZ-S4209P Screen saver, Screen dimming,sleep/hibernation mode not working according to power management settings

  - by Alto Roos

  I have a problem with my ASUS N56VZ-S4209P(Win8, I7-3630QM) laptop. If I use the fn+f7 command to turn off the screen it turns on by itself after a few seconds (the time varies between 1-10 seconds). In addition to this my screensaver doesn't activate at all and the laptop doesn't dim its screen after X minutes or goes into sleep/hibernation mode as specified in the power options when plugged in or on battery. As far as my knowledge goes it's not caused by the mouse or track pad at all since I can unplug my mouse and disable the track pad but the problem persist. I presume this is caused by the same problem? Does anyone know of a fix for this problem? It would be greatly appreciated. . . . I seem to have found a solution to the problem related to the screen that turns itself on again. The Power4Gear application has a setting which enables you to turn a "Presentation mode" "On" and "Off", if that setting is "Off" then it doesn't turn the screen on without any human interaction. Thus that part of the problem is fixed.

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• Hard Disk:S.M.A.R.T. Stas BAD, Back up and replace

  - by Nick

  I have an laptop top hard drive I was trying to use to my new media computer. The case is small and can accommodate for 2 2.5" drives, no 3.5" drives. I had been using the hard drive as storage hard drive until now. When I go to install Windows on the hard drive first I'm prompted at the bios of: Hard Disk:S.M.A.R.T. Stas BAD, Back up and replace. And then again in the Windows Setup, informing me that the hard drive is bad. So I did a full format of the drive and tried again. Same error. So I took it out and hooked it back up to my other computer via an Sata usb adapter kit (maybe the cause?). The hard drive is recognized fine and when I scanned it for errors by going: right click -> properties -> tools -> error checking It returns that the hard drive is fine. I have tried 3 different SATA cables and multiple jumpers. When I plugged in my 1.5 tb 3.5" drive the computer that gives me the S.M.A.R.T. error on the 2.5" drive, recognizes it with no problems. Any ideas on why this is happening and how I can fix it?

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• Data recovery on a corrupted 3TB disk

  - by Mark K Cowan

  Short version I probably need software to run a deep-scan recovery (ideally on Linux) to find files on NTFS filesystem. The file data is intact, but the references are no longer present. Analogous to recovering data from a "quick-formatted" partition. Hopefully there is a smarter way available than deep-scan, one which would recover filenames and possibly paths. Long version I have a 3TB disk containing a load of backups. Windows 7 SP1 refused to detect the disk when plugged in directly via SATA, so I put it on a USB/SATA adaptor which seemed to work at first. The SATA/USB adaptor probably does not support disks over 2.2TB though. Windows first asked me if I wanted to 'format' the disk, then later showed me most of the contents but some folder were inaccessible. I stupidly decided to run a CHKDSK on my backup disk, which made the folders accessible but also left them empty. I connected this disk via SATA to my main PC (Arch Linux). I tried: testdisk ntfsundelete ntfsfix --no-action (to look for diagnostically relevant faults, disk was "OK" though) to no avail as the files references in the tables had presumably been zeroed out by CHKDSK, rather than using a typical journal'd deletion). If it is useful at all, a majority of the files that I want to recover are JPEG, Photoshop PSD, and MPEG-3/MPEG-4/AVI/MKV files. If worst comes to worst, I'll just design my own sector scanner and use some simple heuristic-driven analysis to recover raw binary blocks of data from the disk which appears to match the structures of the above file types. I am unfamiliar with the exact workings of NTFS but used to be proficient at recovering FAT32 systems with just a hex-editor, so I can provide any useful diagnostic information if you let me know how to find it! My priorities in ascending order of importance for choosing the accepted answer: Restores directory structure Recovers many filenames in addition to the file data Is free / very cheap Runs on Linux Recovers a majority of file data The last point is the most important, but the more of the higher points you match the more rep you'll probably get :)

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• OS X can't copy files from Windows Home Server...over wifi.

  - by John Clayton

  I'm a brand spanking new user of OS X, coming from a lifetime of Windows use. I've been setting up my new Macbook Pro and have run into a very unusual problem. Over wifi, I am unable to copy files to or from my Windows Home Server. The problem seems to exist only over wifi, and only to WHS. Here are the details of my setup: 2010 Macbook Pro (Core i7), OS X 10.6.3 Windows Home Server PP3 (virtualized in XenServer 5.5) Windows 7 Ultimate x64 desktop Windows 7 Ultimate x64 in Boot Camp D-Link DIR-655 wireless N router Here is what I've done to narrow down the problem: Files copy fine from WHS to OS X when using gigabit ethernet Files copy fine from desktop to OS X when using gigabit ethernet Files fail to copy from WHS to OS X when using wifi (error -51) Files copy fine from desktop to OS X when using wifi Files copy fine from WHS to Boot Camp when using wifi Files copy fine from desktop to Boot Camp when using wifi From what I can tell, it seems to be some sort of issue between OS X and WHS, but I can't for the life of me see what would be different between shares on WHS and my desktop. They are both connected using smb://ADDRESS (I've tried both by IP and name). I can browse the shares on the WHS, but copying to OS X fails. I originally found the issue while installing VS2010 off an ISO from WHS, mounted to a Windows 7 VM using VMware Fusion. During the installation the VM was unusable - even the clock got behind the host be about 8 minutes. Once I plugged in the ethernet and disabled the wifi things picked up and finished quickly. The Fusion 3.1 RC is the only I think of that I installed that may have messed with the wifi driver. I've also tried resetting the wifi router, and have changed it from being G & N to N-only. Under Boot Camp I get similar speeds as my wife's N laptop. Any ideas? Thanks!

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