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  • Do 10m external SAS cables work?

    - by Joachim Sauer
    According to the Wikipedia page external SAS cables are specified for up to 10m length. However, I found it pretty hard to actually find places that sell cables of that length. This made me wonder: Are there any known problems with using cables that are as long as this? Will it be more fragile? Slower? And if 10m is not suggested, would 6m be any more stable? A little background: for several reasons we'd like to put a tape library physically separate from our main server and 10m would be enough to put it on a separate floor.

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  • Limiting bandwith on an Windows 7 machine

    - by Mihai Damian
    I need to limit the bandwidth on my Windows 7 x64 machine. In the past (on XP) I've been able to use NetLimiter for similar tasks. However for some reason I can't get it to work anymore. For lower limits the bandwidth tests are able to exceed the limit by 10-50%; higher limits seem to be ignored completely and the bandwidth tests report download speeds of over 10 times the speed I set. I'm using speedtest.net and some similar service from my ISP for these tests. Anyway, I don't necessarily need a program as complex as NetLimiter since I only need to throttle my machine's bandwidth, not a specific program's. In case you are wondering why in the world I'd want to cripple my Internet speed, there is a funny story behind this. Long story short, my modem gets random disconnects. Tech support comes in, says my Internet speed is abnormally high and I must be using some tools to somehow make it go faster than it's supposed to and this messes up my modem. I check the connection with another computer and it seems that my PC is the only one in my network that gets abnormal speeds. I reinstall my OS, speed looks normal at first, after I install the batch of 50 or so updates, it goes back to abnormally high speeds and the disconnect problems are not solved. Now I don't have a clue if the explanation the tech team gave me was just a strategy to lay the blame on someone else, but I was trying to give them the benefit of the doubt and see what happens if I really reduce my speed to their specification. Any help appreciated.

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  • Building a network at home, what cables to use (if any)?

    - by Faruz
    My house is currently in ruins and am building it. While doing so, I wanted to design a home network. My main objectives are surfing and HD streaming. The house is one-level, 100 sq/m (about 300 sq/ft), and one of the rooms is a safety room with Reinforced concrete walls. About a year ago, when I started planning, I thought about putting Cat 6 STP cables in the walls and create network points in the rooms. Should I use STP or FTP? I heard that STP is a problem regarding connectors and stuff. Is it really beneficial? Will it work OK if I transfer the wire together with the telephone line? Should I maybe go with WLan and count on 802.11n to enable me to stream HD across the house? is 802.11n that good?

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  • How to declutter and organize the cables on and under my desk? [closed]

    - by splattne
    Computer cables and external devices are a continuous source of frustration for everybody who likes a clean working environment. The more devices you add to your home office, the more disastrous the situation under the table becomes: cords falling behind the desk, ugly cables running along the sides and under of the desk, making it almost impossible to clean and remove the dust. This is not my office, but I've seen similar "setups:" I'm looking for good tips/products which help me in keeping the all cables somehow under control and organized.

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  • New to networking had to reinstall xp what does blank in Default Gateway mean?

    - by waterfallraini
    I have reinstalled windows xp and posted about not being able to connect to the Interenet. I did go and ensure all drivers are there and now when I type ipconfig/all I get physical address, dhcp enabled, autoconfiguration enabled, autoconfiguration Ip address, subnet mask and then a line that says default gateway where default gateway is the only line with no numbers or anything next to it. My wireless connection works but how can I get this ethernet connection to work. This was working prior to this fresh reinstall.

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  • Is it possible for a router to "go bad" with time?

    - by JQAn
    I've been having problems with my internet connection over the past weeks (intermittent disconnections, slow transfers, etc), and my provider keeps telling me that the problem is not on their end. I have cablemodem with a wifi router (this router was not provided by them). The router is quite old (DIR-300), so I'm starting to wonder if it could be the issue and if I should replace it. Is it possible that it is the cause? Can they become so outdated that they cause intermittent interruptions of service? If I reset the modem and the router, they work fine for a few hours, but the problems starts again after a while.

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  • Computer loses all installed programs and appears to return OS-only state

    - by Jake
    This is a story regarding 3 laptops of different brand and models. On separate occassions, I configured each of these Windows 7 / Vista computers with the necessary configuration and applications (which are supposedly the same actually), e.g. join office domain, same windows updates, microft office etc. These machinese were configure in our office in Singapore, and then they were taken to India for use. Someday in India, when booting up the laptop, all went fine except when it reach the log in screen, it was no longer possible to login with domain credentials. Logging into the laptop local admin account will lead to discover that the machine has returned to "OS-only state". All the configurations and applications were gone. The actual user profiles are still in the C: drive so files can still be retrieved, but under Control Panel Uninstall Programs it is evident that at least the registry is corrupted. The above scenario happen to the first 2 laptops. For the third, the system reports "Operating System Not Found" on boot up. I cannot think of any reason except to suspect a power fluctuation issue. Question is, will a power issue create this behaviour? What else can cause this issue?

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  • Are These Parts compatible?

    - by ell
    I have never assembled a PC before, although I have taken an old one apart and replaced a few parts in others here and there so I have (very) limited experience. I have been looking to make a pc and here are the parts I might buy: Foxconn P45AL Intel P45 (Socket 775) DDR2 Motherboard (with onboard sound I believe) Gigabyte GeForce GTX 460 OC 768MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card Already have 2 1gb sticks of dual channel DDR2 memory Intel Core 2 Quad Q8400 LGA775 'Yorkfield' 2.66GHz 4MB-cache Processor Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB SATA-II 32MB Cache Hard Drive Antec Dark Fleet Series DF10 Gaming Enclosure – Black I already have monitor, mouse, keyboard and DVD/CD drive Akasa Freedom Power 1000W Modular Power Supply I have never done this before so feel free to laugh at me for getting something obvious wrong, forgetting a vital component etc. but is all of this compatible? And have I gone overkill on the PSU, if so, please recommend one. Thanks in advance, ell. EDIT: Added PSU which I forgot to mention EDIT: I would be using this to surf the internet, write e-mails, chat, word process, play games such as team fortress 2 & spring rts (at highest graphics hopefully), some 3d modelling in blender, some opengl programming, and image editing in GIMP.

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  • Computer sponteously reboots when doing heavy file copy to/from disk

    - by Mark Hosang
    I've been fighting with this problem for the last 3 weeks where my machine will just instantly reboot. No BSOD, and when i checked the event log all that was reported was the generic "Kernal-power" error with the detailed information pointing to a hard crash. This is a machine that was working for 18 months before these crashes started happening. When they started happening is after I added 3 HDs in a RAID-5, upped the memory to 12gb, moved to a new house, added a SSD and added about 5 case fans. I have thus eliminated the RAID, and determined that the SSD was not the cause (because it was still crashing even though the ssd wasn't connected). I've run memtest several times over night with no memory problems showing up. I've run IntelBurnTest to max out the cpu to see if it was a heat issue and at full tilt after 20 min it was only at 85C and the machine didn't crash. I also took a look at the voltages during this test, with a screenshot at the bottom of this post I've ruled out a software issue by reinstalling windows 7 ultimate x64 a total of 5 times, but even during that the install it crashes. Happens sometime during file copying at the beginning, or during uncompressing files, or sometimes during running windows update. The only discernible pattern i can see is that it seems to crash when hard disks might be spinning up or when they are accessed heavily from large file transfers. My current guess is that it is probably an issue with the MB, PSU or the power coming through the outlet. Any suggestions of what i could try to troubleshoot or what may be wrong? Specs PSU: Seasonic M12 700w Mem: 12gb CPU: i7-920 with stock heatsink MB: Asus P6T HDs: 3 green WD and 1 Corsair force 3 120b with 1.3.3 firmware Running full tilt voltages Idling Voltages

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  • Windows 7 hangs after going into sleep a second time

    - by Brian Stephenson
    I've searched everywhere around Google and can't figure out why this is happening so I decide to ask here to see if anyone has a problem like this. Like it says in the title, whenever I sleep ONCE I'm able to wake the system, but going back to sleep again AFTER waking up for the first time results in it hanging on no input and no output, with the fan spinning as fast as possible and alot of heat being spewed out by the fan as well. I've tried various things like setting all USB Hub Root's to not get switched off for power saving, disabling USB selective suspend, disabling PCI-e link state power management, and even unplugging ALL USB devices and it wont wake up after the second attempt. And I've even waited up to a full hour of the CPU fan spinning loudly and it's still stuck trying to wake up. The only USB devices I use are a Microsoft USB Comfort Curve Keyboard 2000 (IntelliType Pro) and a generic HID compliant mouse from Creative model number OMC90S "CREATIVE MOUSE OPTICAL LITE". My other devices like external drives and controllers are unplugged when I'm not using them as having too many USB devices plugged in at a time causes a deadlock on almost all of the ports I have. Here's my system specifications (Most of these are from CPU-Z): Brand: Gateway DX4300-19 Mainboard: Gateway RS780 Chipset: AMD 780G Rev 00 Southbridge: AMD SB700 Rev 00 LPCIO: ITE IT8718 BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. ver P01-A4 09/15/2009 CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 810 at 2.60 GHz RAM: 8.0 GB DDR2 Dual Channel Ganged Mode at 400 MHz GPU: ATI Radeon HD3200 Graphics Intergrated - RS780 OS: Windows 7 Home Premium x64 OEM (Acer Group) HDD: WDC WD10EADS-22M2B0 1.0 TB (Western Digital Green Caviar) My BIOS has absolutely no control over how I setup the sleep mode to be either S1 or S3. So I can't check these settings or even change them. Hybrid sleep is also disabled, I can successfully go into hibernation and wake from hibernation but this is painfully slow due to a harddrive problem I'm having with this "Green Drive". (Hibernation takes over ~3 minutes to complete) Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

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  • Simple electric DC question. Currency consumption

    - by Bobb
    Suppose you have DC power supply and a consumer connected to it (i.e. computer PSU and a hard drive). Suppose PSU which was supplied with the consumer has output 5V 1A. So I assume that the consumer should not consume more than 1A. Suppose the original PSU is broken now and I want to replace it with the one I have which is 5V 10A. My guess is that current is something which depends on the consumer. So if the consumer consumes normally 1A then it will not consume more than that even if it is connected to 10A PSU. In other word - am I right assuming that the consumer will not burn out being connected to a power supply with higher current output? P.S. my understanding is that voltage is something independent from the consumer. If you give it higher voltage it will burn (voltage is from PSU to the consumer). However current must be in opposite - consumer sucks as much current as it need not as much as PSU can provide (of course given that max PSU current is greater than the consumer needs)

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  • Computer does not boot, often

    - by tam
    I've ran into a issue with my computer that it does no longer reach POST, but simply powers on for a fraction of a second and powers off. But this is not always, some times it boots just normally and it works as it should, no issues with not enough power or anything. But as soon as I turn it of, I can not turn it back on, but then again at some random point it just powers up again, and resumes normal operation. If I disconnect the 8pin ATX connector from the motherboard, it powers up, fans and disks spinning normally until I power it off again. So this problem only happens when ATX is connected, which seems odd, I normally always saw this kind of an error if ATX was not connected, but here it's the exact opposite. It also does not emit any sound on the buzzer, except the normal beep, when it powers up normally. I have already tried: Remove graphics card Remove one and/or all RAM sticks Disconnect everything non-essential, even hard drives Clear CMOS I have not yet tried to remove all components and tried to boot everything outside of the case, because I did not have the time to disassemble and bleed the water loop. However, I can confirm that nothing is stuck underneath the motherboard, not is any of those brass raisers touching the board where it should not. Specs: Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3 AMD FX6300 ATI HD7850 I think this should be enough for this issue.

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  • Simple electric DC question. Current consumption

    - by Bobb
    Suppose you have DC power supply and a consumer connected to it (i.e. computer PSU and a hard drive). Suppose PSU which was supplied with the consumer has output 5V 1A. So I assume that the consumer should not consume more than 1A. Suppose the original PSU is broken now and I want to replace it with the one I have which is 5V 10A. My guess is that current is something which depends on the consumer. So if the consumer consumes normally 1A then it will not consume more than that even if it is connected to 10A PSU. In other word - am I right assuming that the consumer will not burn out being connected to a power supply with higher current output? P.S. my understanding is that voltage is something independent from the consumer. If you give it higher voltage it will burn (voltage is from PSU to the consumer). However current must be in opposite - consumer sucks as much current as it need not as much as PSU can provide (of course given that max PSU current is greater than the consumer needs)

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  • At what point does the performance gap between GPU & CPU become so great that the CPU is holding back a system?

    - by Matthew Galloway
    I know that generally speaking for gaming performance the GPU is the primary factor which holds back performance, with everything else such as RAM/motherboard/PSU/CPU being secondary in importance to the graphics card. But at some point the other components ARE going to be significant in holding back the whole system! For instance nobody would be silly enough to play modern games with 512MB RAM and the very latest graphics cards (such as an HD7970) as I bet the performance increase over such a system with only 512MB but a mid range card would be non-existent! Thus it would be a "waste" for such a person to buy any high end graphics card without resolving first the system's other problems. The same point applies to other components, such as if it only had a Pentium II a current high end graphics card would be wasted on it! So my core question is how do you determine at what point for your system is spending on extra GPU power be completely "wasted"? (also, a slightly more nuanced question is trying work out at what point might the extra graphics power not be "wasted" but would be "sub optimal" value for money, when the expenditure should then be split around graphics card and other components. As obviously a gamer shouldn't always just spend on upgrading the graphics card! But needs to balance it out)

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  • Can I charge USB devices from a powered hub that isn't connected to a PC?

    - by Anodyne
    This will probably sound familiar to most of you... In my home, we have a whole bunch of devices that can be charged via USB (two iPhones, a BlackBerry, an iPod Touch, etc ad nauseam). We also have a bunch of USB chargers, each of which has a single USB port on it. I'd like to have something permanently connected to AC power with at least 4 USB ports on it, so we can just plug devices in and don't need to go looking for a free outlet. So here's the question: if I buy a powered USB hub, will that do the job even if I don't connect it to a PC? Ideally if you have a hub that you can personally verify will be suitable, let me know the manufacturer and model :-) Thanks in advance! EDIT: The solution I eventually went for was this: Kensington 4-Port USB Charger for Mobile Devices (Europe) There's also a US version here: Kensington 4-Port USB Charger for Mobile Devices (USA) It arrived yesterday, so I used it to charge the following devices, all at the same time, overnight last night: 32GB iPhone 3GS 16GB iPhone 3G First-generation iPod Touch Kensington Portable Power Pack for Mobile Devices I can't say anything about the charging speed (as I left it overnight) but all devices were fully charged this morning.

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  • Why is my computer randomly restarting? How can I fix it?

    - by kinglime
    I have a custom built desktop computer that I've been using since about a year ago. The main specs are: ASUS P8Z68-V LE Motherboard Intel Core i7 2600k Corsair Vengeance 16GB Ram ASUS ENGTX570 GPU Corsair TX650M PSU I was running an overclock of 4.4ghz for my cpu (I have a Hyper212 EVO) and 1600mhz for my RAM but have it currently turned off due to my issues. I am also currently running Windows 8 but this problem occured in Windows 7 too. Basically my issue is that seemingly randomly, with no pattern my PC will reset itself and ASUS Anti-Surge will alert me that something went wrong. This issue is not related to system stress. I can run it fine for an hour maxxed out on Prime95 then later I can be watching a mere YouTube video when it will randomly reset. This has been occurring probably for the last two weeks and it seems to be getting worse. I believe this might be related to the power supply but when I monitor it in the bios and in Windows it appears to be putting out the proper voltages. Also possibly related or not but my Nvidia drivers frequently temporarily fail and then warn me of some kind of kernel error? If I have to buy a new power supply that is what I'll do but I want to make damn sure that's the only issue at hand. Thank you everyone in advance, please help me diagnose the issue and tell me what I can do to fix it. If you need any additional info about my setup please ask me.

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  • computer randomly restarting. both in game and out of game

    - by eric
    first my specs are. AMD Phenom II x4 955 processor 3.2ghz 20gb ddr3 ram 4Gb Nvidia Geforce GTX 770 850w Corsair tx850w psu Gigabyte ud3 mobo Windows 7 professional I recently uprgraded my vid card to gtx770 and upgraded my psu to the 850w thats in it now. i did a reformat with the installation of the new gpu and psu and started fresh and only have a couple programs installed (diablo3, nvidia control panel, wow, and steam). all drivers are up to date and everything is hooked up correctly. the problem is it will randomly shut down. no blue screen. just turns itself straight off and reboots after a couple seconds. occasionally i will have to unplug the power cable from the psu for a few minutes then reconnect and it will start up. it seems pretty random. sometimes it does it when my pc is just sitting there on the home screen. and sometimes it does it during games. and sometimes it doesnt do it for days at a time. i noticed the psu felt hot so i put an extra fan blowing straight onto both the psu and gpu and neither feel overly hot after it shuts down now. could it just be that it is a psu problem. the psu was taken from another machine but wasnt having this problem in that machine. i have seen a few articles online about gtx770 doing the same thing. but i havent found any answers or solutions. any help will be appreciated. im sure the 850w is enough to power my machine, im just stumped and ran out of ideas to fix it. i have even returned the video card for another thinking it might have been an issue with that particular card, but still gettin the same problem.

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  • Algorithm for finding the smallest power of two that's greater or equal to a given value

    - by Boyan
    I need to find the smallest power of two that's greater or equal to a given value. So far, I have this: int value = 3221; // 3221 is just an example, could be any number int result = 1; while (result < value) result <<= 1; It works fine, but feels kind of naive. Is there a better algorithm for that problem? EDIT. There were some nice Assembler suggestions, so I'm adding those tags to the question.

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  • Determine Android phone's proximity to known point while conserving power

    - by ahsteele
    I am trying to determine if an Android user has had a close proximity to a list of predetermined locations. I'd like to do this with the least amount of drain on the phone's battery. The two mechanisms I see for accomplishing this are proximity alerts and requesting location updates. What are the pros and cons of the two methods? Will one have less affect on the battery than the other? In either case I would guess the specific location manager used would affect power usage (existing Stack Overflow answer).

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  • Orbital equations, and power required to run them

    - by Adam Davis
    Due to a discussion on the SO IRC today, I'm curious about orbital mechanics, and The equations needed to solve orbital problems The computing power required to solve complex problems The question in particular is calculating when the Earth will plow into the Sun (or vice versa, depending on the frame of reference). I suspect that all the gravitational pulls within our solar system may need to be calculated, which makes me wonder what type of computer cluster is required, or can this be done on a single box? I don't have the experience to do a back of the napkin test here, but perhaps you do? Also, much thx to Gortok for the original inspiration (see comments).

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  • Rounding a positive number to a power of another number

    - by Sagekilla
    I'm trying to round a number to the next smallest power of another number. The number I'm trying to round is always positive. I'm not particular on which direction it rounds, but I prefer downwards if possible. I would like to be able to round towards arbitrary bases, but the ones I'm most concerned with at the moment is base 2 and fractional powers of 2 like 2^(1/2), 2^(1/4), and so forth. Here's my current algorithm for base 2. The log2 I multiply by is actually the inverse of log2: double roundBaseTwo(double x) { return 1.0 / (1 << (int)((log(x) * log2)) } Any help would be appreciated!

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  • How to find the largest power of 2 less than the given number

    - by nazar_art
    I need to find the largest power of 2 less than the given number. And I stuck and can't find any solution. Code: public class MathPow { public int largestPowerOf2 (int n) { int res = 2; while (res < n) { res =(int)Math.pow(res, 2); } return res; } } This doesn't work correctly. Testing output: Arguments Actual Expected ------------------------- 9 16 8 100 256 64 1000 65536 512 64 256 32 How to solve this issue?

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  • Why does just splitting an Ethernet cable not work?

    - by Sin Jeong-hun
    I thought the Ethernet is logically a one-line communication bus (for argument's sake, I am excluding hubs). All machines attached on the bus hears the same signals and the machines themselves try to avoid collisions by randomly backing off. http://computer.howstuffworks.com/ethernet6.htm If so, why would splitting one Ethernet line from my home router into two and connecting two computers not work? Why do I have to add a switch to it? *What the Internet said would not work. [4 port home router] ------[one Ethernet cable]-----[simple splitter]======[two computers] *What the Internet said I should do [4 port home router] ------[one Ethernet cable]-----[switch]======[two computers] Is this because of the signal degradation (reduced electric current)? Thank you for all the answers! The reason why I did not just use the two ports of my home router is... The 4-port gigabit router is in my room, and I had put a computer in another room (also my room, though). Since a wired network is far more reliable and secure, I had bought a long Ethernet cable and and connected the computer to the router. Now I was thinking about adding another computer to that room. I could buy another long Ethernet cable, but then there will be two cables between the rooms. The one line already is a minor annoyance, so I thought if I could share the one line between the two computers in that room. A switch would work, but it requires power and is a little bit pricey. That is why I wondered why it would not work to simply split the physical Ethernet cable. Apparently I do not completely understand how Ethernet and a switch work. I just have some bit of knowledge I heard in my college class.

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  • Possible to do cable & wireless syncing with Blackberry Enterprise Server?

    - by norova
    Using Blackberry Enterprise Server, is there a way to sync both wirelessly and via the sync cable? As in, can you make contacts sync via the cable and then the calendar and email sync wirelessly? Additionally, if you can sync contacts locally with the usb cable, can you sync both your regular outlook contact list and a Public Contact list without using a 3rd party application?

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