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• Can I use a Drobo FS over the internet? -Or alternative?

  - by SeniorShizzle

  I have a lot of files. A HUGE Aperture library, lots of design work from Photoshop, and a rather large iTunes library too. I really want to get a Drobo FS, the networked one, to store all of my stuff on, so that I can get to it from my MacBook Air (which obviously with its minuscule 64GB drive can't hold my Aperture library by itself) and my iMac which is my main powerhouse. The dealbreaker for me is that I NEED to be able to access my Aperture library, and especially my iTunes library from across the internet. I understand that it will probably be slow and everything, but there's nothing else I can do besides hauling around a huge hard drive with me. So, is there any way I can somehow share my Drobo across the internet, on a VPN or something? My other alternative is to upload everything to my web host, FatCow, which offers unlimited disk space (something I hope to make them regret) and then access it using Expandrive. My only thoughts with this are that with the Drobo, any work that I do locally will be much snappier than if I have to work everything off the cloud. Any suggestions about alternatives would also be welcome.

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• Getting rid of your server in a small business environment

  - by andygeers

  In a small business environment, is it still necessary to have a central server? Speaking for my own company (a small charity with about 12 employees) we use our server (Windows Server 2003) for the following: Email via Microsoft Exchange Central storage Acting as a print server User authentication / Active Directory There are significant costs associated with running a server like this: Electricity, first for the server itself then for the air conditioning required (this thing pumps out a lot of heat) Noise (of which there is a lot) IT support bills (both Windows Server and Exchange are pretty complicated, and there are many ways they can go wrong) I've found ways to replace many of these functions with cheaper (better?) alternatives: Google Apps / GMail is a clear win for us: we have so many spam related problems it's not even funny, and Outlook is dog slow on our aging computers You can buy networked storage devices with built in print servers, such as the Netgear ReadyNAS™ RND4210 that would allow us to store/share all of our documents, and allow us to access printers over the network The only thing that I can't figure out how to do away with is the authentication side of things - it seems to me that if we got rid of our server, you'd essentially have a bunch of independent PCs that had no shared pool of user accounts / no central administrator. Is that right? Does that matter? Am I missing any other good reasons to keep a central server? Does anybody know of any good, cost-effective ways of achieving the same end but without the expensive central server?

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• Router drops internet connection if I connect an additional pc

  - by BluePerry

  Hey, I'm using a SMC2804WBRP-G router connected to my ADSL-modem. Usually there are two computers connected to this router: a win7 ultimate desktop(wired) and a macbook air (wireless). Both working absolutely fine and never caused any connection drops as far as I know. A new room mate moved in last month and each time she starts up her win7 home laptop the router looses the internet connection. The laptop is on a wired connection. The first time she connected to my router, the connection dropped every 2 mins. To find out whats wrong with her machine I disabled all unnecessary services etc. besides the anti virus software. That helped to eliminate almost all of those periodic connection drops. But the start up drop remained and I've got the feeling that the router is still loosing connection from time to time. I haven't had the time to find out what service caused the periodic drops. But I'm more concerned about is that start up drop. Can anyone point me in the right direction to look for the problem? I would be very thankful for any hints or tips!

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• Xmonad on windows laptop

  - by Kevin L.

  I'm a Linux developer in the market for a laptop. 90% of my time is spent in Emacs, the terminal, and Google Chrome, and I want to use them within the excellent Xmonad tiling windows manager. Given these constraints, I can only see two options: Run Linux on a laptop Run Windows on the laptop, and spend all of my time working within a Linux VM. Years of experience suggest that the first option will take many frustrating hours and probably be suboptimal w.r.t. battery life, wifi, and fn keys like screen brightness or audio adjustment. For the second option, what would be the ideal setup? I've had a lot of luck with Cooperative Linux on my Samsung NC-10 netbook (Windows XP), but I would have to setup the X11 server myself. What about using VirtualBox (which includes the guest VM's GUI)? Has anyone tried this? Hardware-wise, I'm looking for something in the "Macbook Air killer" category; Samsung Series 9 laptop, Lenovo IdeaPad U300s, &c. (i.e., matte screen, 5h+ battery life, 3ish pound weight). Price is not a consideration; any suggestions?

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• Is there a screen sharing/remote desktop app for mac that lets you use a different host screen resolution?

  - by MarqueIV

  Ok, there are tons and tons of questions about remote desktop for mac and they're all being closed as duplicates. I however am specifically looking for one that will let me use a different resolution than the host, the way you can with Remote Desktop for Windows. For instance, when I connect to my 11" Macbook Air booted into Windows7 from my quad-screen desktop, also booted into Win7 using Microsoft's Remote Desktop Client, it blanks out the screen on the notebook, then virtualizes the video across all four of my desktop's monitors at their native resolutions (2560x1600, 2 x 1920x1200 and 1600x1200) and the notebook now acts as if it has four physical monitors connected to it. All of this from a notebook that only has a 1366 x 768 native resolution. Even when running OS X on the client running RDC, while it doesn't support multi-monitors like its Win counterpart, it still lets me run at the native resolution of the client screen of 2560x1600. Again, it just blanks out the host screen while doing so. However when using Mac's screen sharing, since that is just glorified VNC, it just mirrors what's already on the host's screen, meaning it will always be a single screen with the resolution of 1366x768. This of course makes sense since VNC is a mirroring solution, not a video-virtualizing one like RDC, but it means that on my quad-monitor setup, the remote window isn't even large enough to fill up a single monitor, let alone four (unless you have a client that can scale it up, but that's video scaling. It's still only 1366x768.) So what I'm looking for is if there is a solution on the Mac that lets me do the same thing as RDC in a Win environment. Don't care if I have to pay. I'd gladly pay several hundred dollars for this. I just need that specific feature. Note: People have suggested various VNC clients, but the VNC host still runs at 1366x768 so that will not work here. Ever. Also, people have suggested Synergy/Synergy+/Teleport and such which share the keyboard and mouse, not video. Completely different animal unrelated to what I'm looking for.

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• Can't open cocoa emacs from terminal using open -a

  - by Shane

  I installed emacs on my macbook air running os x 10.6.5 from this site http://emacsformacosx.com/. I believe this is what used to be called cocoa emacs. I dragged it into my Application folder and it works fine when i run it from there. I want to be able to run it from terminal. After some googling, i tried open -a /Application/Emacs.app foo.txt (foo.txt was and existing file). I got two emacs windows - one with welcome screen and one with foo.txt loaded. I tried a few applications in the /Applications directory and they did not seem to behave like this. I had installed it using my own account (an admin account) so after doing ls -l on /Application I noticed that the owner and group were different from the other entries in this folder. I recursively changed the owner and group to root and wheel, like the others, but this did not help. The only thing that looks funny now is that there that ls -l show a @ character which has something to do with extended attributes but i don't know how to check these. Any suggestions on what to check next? Is using the open command the only to run the program? Can I simulate what it does using a shell script?

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• Is a Hyperthreaded CPU more powerful and more efficient than a Dual-core CPU? [closed]

  - by user1811864

  which computer to choose with Pentium processor hello they are getting rid of the old computer equipment in the office and i have to choose the computer to take home i get first choice to pick. -15 inch lcd screen 4 gb of ram core 2 duo dual Core E8400 3.00 GHz dvd writer windows vista/ linux -15 inch crt monitor with 2 gb ram and pentium 4 2 ghz single core HT technology windows xp hardisks both 250 GB my friend is telling me to choose the second one Pentium single core HT because he told me it runs faster becuase of HT technology and cooler and consumes less current electricity so it wont get overheated because it has HT technology so it's high definition for encoding and watching HD movies and HD sound and is like a gaming pc to play internet games. And also he said the dual core 8400 runs at 3 ghz compared to the 2 ghz so it heats very much because of the two extra cores so it takes more current raising electricty bills and is not good for gaming and watching HD movies and internet flash animations and games because of getting heated everytime. And he wants to choose and take the E8400 because he has air conditioning at home so it will be safe from heating. So which one computer should i take is it really faster because of the HT High definition technology and will i be able to play internet flash card games better and watch good HD movies Youtube etc and play all the music and songs.

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• Laptop authentication/logon via accelometer tilt, flip, and twist

  - by wonsungi

  Looking for another application/technology: A number of years ago, I read about a novel way to authenticate and log on to a laptop. The user simply had to hold the laptop in the air and execute a simple series of tilts and flips to the laptop. By logging accelerometer data, this creates a unique signature for the user. Even if an attacker watched and repeated the exact same motions, the attacker could not replicate the user's movements closely enough. I am looking for information about this technology again, but I can't find anything. It may have been an actual feature on a laptop, or it may have just been a research project. I think I read about it in a magazine like Wired. Does anyone have more information about authentication via unique accelerometer signatures? Here are the closest articles I have been able to find: Knock-based commands for your Linux laptop Shake Well Before Use: Authentication Based on Accelerometer Data[PDF] Inferring Identity using Accelerometers in Television Remote Controls User Evaluation of Lightweight User Authentication with a Single Tri-Axis Accelerometer Identifying Users of Portable Devices from Gait Pattern with Accelerometers[PDF] 3D Signature Biometrics Using Curvature Moments[PDF] MoViSign: A novel authentication mechanism using mobile virtual signatures

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• How can laptop keyboard keys be removed and replaced?

  - by Lord Torgamus

  I'm trying to fix a laptop keyboard that has issues with keys on its left side. Just by feel, it's clear that something sticky got under there. There could be something crunchy too, but that might just be the sound of the key's spring releasing itself from the sticky. I don't know the cause because it's not my computer and the owner isn't sure, but I'm guessing soda spill for now. The computer is an HP dv2500. I've removed the keyboard and blown under it but that hasn't helped. I didn't use compressed air because I just don't have any available, but I suspect it wouldn't help with sticky. So, I'd like to pop they keys off and clean with damp cotton swabs or similar. Is there a proper way to remove the keys? I've found some instructions via Google for non-laptop keyboards, but they don't seem like they'd work for me. Alternate solutions to the problem also welcome, but I've been curious about how to remove the keys for some time for other reasons.

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• Is reliability reputation of mechanical keyboards overblown?

  - by Rarst

  A while back I worked up to finally buying mechanical keyboard (~$100 range, "black" switches) and was initially quite content with purchase. However just outside first year (read it - as soon as warranty expired) it started to develop repeat issues (press once, get chain of letter repeated) on multiple keys. It doesn't react to generic cleaning (up to compressed air) and searching Internet shows noticeable amount of people with similar-to-identical issues, spanning years. This makes me severely hesitant to buy another mechanical keyboard, considering: every other keyboard I ever owned, including ultra-cheap crap managed to last longer than that typing experience is nice, but not lifechanging-fan-forever nice for me my choice of mechanical keyboards is severely limited not many brands represented in local market and primarily crazy looking gamer models russian (not to mention russian and ukrainian if possible) layout excludes international ordering price tag for a meek year of use I got our of it is plain demoralizing It is obvious mechanical keyboards have their fans, but shopping around for "best fit" or getting into multiple hundreds price tags is probably not something I am highly interested in. Considering my constraints and bad experience with reliability, is it practical for me to sink more money into buying mechanical keyboard(s) again? In other words - manufacturers are beaming about how crazy reliable mechanical keyboards are. Are active long time users of such keyboards confidently of same opinion?

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• Wireless card overheating?

  - by Sidney

  Ok, so I've had my laptop for several years (I wanna say 4, but possibly more), it's a Toshiba Satellite. I'm running Linux mint 15, and am having a strange new issue, after several hours of running my wireless stops. It can SEE wireless networks, but refuses to connect to any of them. (On a sidenote, connecting to a router with a cable at this point works fine) The fact that it can SEE the networks make me think the card is in good condition, and it's software related The fact that it works for several hours before booting me makes me think perhaps the transmitter is getting too hot. I don't use my laptop in dusty environments, and keep it on an elevated surface (alternatively, I actively try not to let it sit on soft surfaces where the vents get covered). I spray out the cpu fan about once a year with compressed air about once a year, so I really don't think the insides should be too dirty. Finally, unfortunately, sensors only gives me CPU temps, but they run about 40-50 degrees C, which from my understanding is perfectly normal for an I3. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to determine the root cause of this?

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• How long will a "safely stored" Solid-State-Drive (SSD) keep its data? (e.g. bank safety-deposit box)

  - by user31575

  Here's my usecase: once-and-only-once copy off photos/videos to an internal SATA Solid State Drive (SSD) put this drive in a well-ventilated, air-conditioned bank "safety deposit box" for safe keeping The question: How long can I safely store a solid-state-drive in such an environment? i.e. 0% bitrot, 100% success when "plugged in" Are some SSD drives more reliable than other for this usecase? (e.g. smaller size vs larger size, SLC vs MLC, different brands, etc) More fodder: I have read that solid state memory cards (e..g compactflash, or sd cards) have much longer durability than other media (DVD's, CD's, hard drives) for this usecase (guaranteed against bitrot/other dysfunction on the order of ~ a decades vs a year ). I don't know if this applies to "SSD hard drives". Copying to one 500Gb ssd vs 8 64gb flash drives is easier SSD SATA hard drives have no moving parts, but they have more "visible electronics" than a compact flash card. I don't know if this "visible electronics" can fail, i.e. in contr I know many will point to carbonite, other cloud backup stuff, but I like the simplicity of having physical copies and wanted to understand the risks/implications thanks,

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• nginx giving 404 when accessing php from alias directory

  - by code90

  I am trying to migrate from apache to nginx. The php sites that I am hosting need to access a shared library which turns out to be an alias directory. Below is the configuration I came up with. html files work fine, but php files giving 404. I have read through and tried most (if not all) of the answers to the similar questions with no any success. Any hint on what might be causing the issue in my case? location /wtlib/ { alias /var/www/shared/wtlib_4/; index index.php; } location ~ /wtlib/.*\.php$ { alias /var/www/shared/wtlib_4/; try_files $uri =404; if ($fastcgi_script_name ~ /wtlib(/.*\.php)$) { set $valid_fastcgi_script_name $1; } fastcgi_pass 127.0.0.1:9013; fastcgi_index index.php; fastcgi_param SCRIPT_FILENAME /var/www/shared/wtlib_4$valid_fastcgi_script_name; fastcgi_param REDIRECT_STATUS 200; include /etc/nginx/fastcgi_params; } Thanks all ! Update: Following seems to be working fine: location /wtlib/ { alias /usr/share/php/wtlib_4/; location ~* .*\.php$ { try_files $uri @php_wtlib; } location ~* \.(html|htm|js|css|png|jpg|jpeg|gif|ico|pdf|zip|rar|air)$ { expires 7d; access_log off; } } location @php_wtlib { if ($fastcgi_script_name ~ /wtlib(/.*\.php)$) { set $valid_fastcgi_script_name $1; } fastcgi_pass $byr_pass; fastcgi_index index.php; fastcgi_param SCRIPT_FILENAME /usr/share/php/wtlib_4$valid_fastcgi_script_name; fastcgi_param REDIRECT_STATUS 200; include /etc/nginx/fastcgi_params; }

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• Why is my Mac not displaying anything to my LCD tv using HDMI?

  - by Pure.Krome

  Hi folks, I've got an iMac desktop computer. Love it. I wish to connect it to my LCD TV using HDMI. There is no HDMI output on the iMac so i had to buy one of these bad boys :- so now I can output video (via the mini Display Port) and sound (via USB) through this box, to my LCD. Works great ... with a single direct cable. I have another 3 or 5 metre cable inserted into my wall, so i do not have to have a silly hdmi cable floating in the air between my iMac and my LCD TV. When I do this, there is no picture. To better explain all of this, i made a quick video explaining my problem in detail, so you can exactly see what is going on/wrong. I've also tried changing the output format for the TV from 1080i down to 720p and even lower .. incase the cable in the wall doesn't allow 1080i. here's the video with the full explanation :- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZkKRKnRIh6Q (NOTE: I incorrectly said in the video that the hidden wall cable is 10 metres long. me == fail. It's 3m or 5m...). Can someone please watch it and suggest some ideas to getting it working?

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• iCloud backup merges or overwrites?

  - by Joe McMahon

  The following happened today (it was six AM my time, so yeah, I was dumb and dropped stitches in this process): A friend had a problem with her iPhone and needed to reset it. Unfortunately she did the reset while connected to iTunes and the restore process kicked in. In my sleepy state, I told her to go ahead. She did, and restored the most recent local (iTunes) backup (from July last year - she doesn't back up often, as she has an Air which is pretty full). During setup on the phone, she was prompted to merge data with the iCloud copy, and did so. There was no "restore from iCloud" prompt. Obviously I should have made sure she was disconnected from iTunes before she did the reset, or had her set it up as a new device and then restored from iCloud, but water under the bridge now. (Side question: could I have had her disconnect and then restart the phone again and avoid this whole process?) The question is: was the "merge" that happened in this process a true merge, or a replace? Her passwords for Mail were wrong, since they were the old ones from the old backup. If she does the wipe data and restore from iCloud, will she get her old SMSes and calendar entries back? Or did the merge decide that the phone, despite it being "old" was right and therefore the SMSes, calendar entries, etc. were discarded? As a recovery option, I have a 4-day-old iTunes backup here from ~/Library/Application Support/MobileSync/Backup, but she and the phone are 3000 miles away, and it's 8GB, so I can't easily restore it for her. I do have the option of encrypting it and mailing it on a data stick if the iCloud backup is now toast. Should she try the wipe and restore from the cloud (after backing up locally), or should I just get the more-recent backup in the mail? My goal is to get everything (especially the SMSes) back to the most recent version possible.

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• Is there an application to log component temperatures to file?

  - by MrVimes

  I purchased a computer a month or two ago (core i7, 24gb ram, geforce gtx 590, windows 7 ultimate). Within the last week it began to bluescreen regularly. I tried lots of things (check hds, check memory, reinstall windows etc..) but it still bluescreened. At the time my temps were as follows... CPU - aprox 40/50c. GPU - arpox 60 idle, aprox 90 during heavy use. HDDs - aprox 55c after the PC had been on a while. I thought the 55c was ok, but I have since realized it was probably too high and may have been the direct cause of the bluescreening. I've installed a spare fan I had in the front of the PC blowing air in, (so there's airflow from front to back) Since then, obviously, all my temps are down. Especially the HDDs - three of them reach 30c and one has been up to 47c (it is some distance away from the airflow, in one of the 5.25inch drive bays) I haven't had the PC on for as long as it would normally take to bluescreen yet, but If it does I want to know what all the temps were right before the bluescreen. I have tried Everest but it only shows me realtime temps or gives me the ability to create one-off reports. I want something that can record all the temps to a file at 30 seconds intervals. If the computer bluescreens I can load it up again and check the last entry in the file. Side question: Am I right in thinking 55c was far too hot for a HDD? (It might have got higher than that before the bluescreens.. I don't know) Another side question: Is 47c too high? This is actually why I am asking the main question - I am concerned that this one drive that isn't getting the benefit of the extra fan may still cause the computer to bluescreen.

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• Screen randomly goes blue/black/white

  - by FubsyGamer

  Problem Randomly, while using my computer, the monitor goes dark grey/almost black, or it goes white with faint grey vertical lines, or it goes blue with black vertical lines. It's as if the computer powers off. People tell me I sign out of Skype, Spotify stops playing when it happens, etc. When I look at the tower, it doesn't seem like it's off at all. Nothing changes, fans are spinning, lights are on, etc. If you were only looking at the tower, you'd never know there was a problem The only way I can get it to come back up is to push and hold the power button and turn it off, then back on This never happens while I'm playing video games. I've done 5-6 hour sessions of League of Legends, and it doesn't do anything When I'm just browsing the web, reading email, checking Reddit, etc, it happens all the time. It can happen multiple times in a session, it usually takes only about 5 minutes from the time I start browsing to when the computer crashes This started happening after I moved to a new apartment (this has to be relevant somehow, it was not happening where I lived before) There is nothing in the crash logs or event logs System Specs i5 2500k CPU AMD Radeon 6800 GPU Gigabyte z68a-d3h-b3 motherboard WD VelociRaptor 1 TB HDD Screenshots Device manager About screen Things I have tried I was getting a WMI Error in my event logs, but I fixed it using Microsoft's fix, KB 2545227 I was using Windows 8. I wiped the HDD and downgraded to Windows 7 64 bit I took out the video card and used a can of air to totally clean out the video card, all fans, and the inside of the computer in general. I made sure all of the video card pins were fine, then reconnected it I tried to update my motherboard BIOS, but anything I downloaded from Gigabyte was only for 32 bit machines, not 64. I don't even know how to tell what my motherboard BIOS is at right now I am using a power strip, and anything else connected to it works just fine If I re-seat the monitor cable while this is happening, nothing changes Please, help me. I've been battling this for several weeks now, and it's so frustrating it makes me not even want to use the computer.

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• External Dell Display doesn't work with MacBook Pro (2011) after Thunderbolt Firmware Update (1.0 and 1.2)

  - by tom

  Today two Thunderbolt Firmware Updates (1.0 and 1.2) became available for my MacBook Pro (Early 2011). After installing both, my external monitor, a Dell U2713HM, does no longer work. The system detects the display, but the display shows only black. An Apple Thunderbolt display works fine and a MacBook Air can use the Dell monitor without problems. My MacBook Pro can use the Dell monitor just fine when I boot from a USB stick. Therefore, clearly the Thunderbolt Firmware Update seems to be the problem. Does anyone have the same problem? Any solutions or workarounds? I guess there is no way to remove a Thunderbolt Firmware Update once it's installed, right? Update 24.10.2013: Is there no one else with this problem? In the meantime I tried three different cables – none worked. My colleague with the same generation MacBook Pro also can't use my display after installing the firmware update. All colleagues with MacBook Airs and newer MacBook Pros (all didn't receive the firmware update) can use the display. Update 29.10.2013: Wow, ok today my new MacBook Pro Retina 13' (Late 2013) arrived. Guess what, I cannot use the display with it. Only HDMI works – not with the full resolution.

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• Computer randomly shuts itself off

  - by Decency

  I have not been able to determine a pattern for why this happens, despite my best efforts. I've attempted to run it on full power with Prime95 and this doesn't trigger a restart. Generally the restarts occur while I'm playing games, watching videos, or even just having multiple tabs open in a browser. However, I often play processor intense games for hours without any restarts occurring, and sometimes they'll happen 3-4 times in an hour during less intense activity, so I don't think that is the problem. I imagine it has something to do with overheating or power consumption so I've been monitoring CPU temperature and cleaning with compressed air, but the problem keeps happening. I don't know how to track power consumption, and assume that this is the problem. Whenever this occurs, the sound gets stuck in a short loop of whatever was playing at the time, though restarts also occur when nothing is playing. Here is a screenshot of temperatures: and under load: Here's the parts list: http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=10546754 As shown in the list, the case includes a 585W Power Supply, which I've been told should be plenty. I built the computer myself with a friend's guidance but it's very possible I did something wrong. Right now I'm looking into ensuring that I have the latest drivers for all components. Any help would be appreciated- thanks.

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• How can laptop keyboard keys be removed and replaced?

  - by Lord Torgamus

  I'm trying to fix a laptop keyboard that has issues with keys on its left side. Just by feel, it's clear that something sticky got under there. There could be something crunchy too, but that might just be the sound of the key's spring releasing itself from the sticky. I don't know the cause because it's not my computer and the owner isn't sure, but I'm guessing soda spill for now. The computer is an HP dv2500. I've removed the keyboard and blown under it but that hasn't helped. I didn't use compressed air because I just don't have any available, but I suspect it wouldn't help with sticky. So, I'd like to pop they keys off and clean with damp cotton swabs or similar. Is there a proper way to remove the keys? I've found some instructions via Google for non-laptop keyboards, but they don't seem like they'd work for me. Alternate solutions to the problem also welcome, but I've been curious about how to remove the keys for some time for other reasons.

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• Command or tool to display list of connections to a Windows file share

  - by BizTalkMama

  Is there a Windows command or tool that can tell me what users or computers are connected to a Windows fileshare? Here's why I'm looking for this: I've run into issues in the past where our deployment team has deployed BizTalk applications to one of our environments using the wrong bindings, leaving us with two receive locations pointing to the same file share (i.e. both dev and test servers point to dev receive location uri). When this occurs, the two environments in question tend to take turns processing the files received (meaning if I am attempting to debug something in one environment and the other environment has picked the file up, it looks as if my test file has disappeared into thin air). We have several different environments, plus individual developer machines, and I'd rather not have to check each individually to find the culprit. I'm looking for a quick way to detect what locations are connected to the share once I notice my test files vanishing. If I can determine the connections that are invalid, I can go directly to the person responsible for that environment and avoid the time it takes to randomly ask around. Or if the connections appear to be correct, I can go directly to troubleshooting where in the process the message gets lost. Any suggestions?

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• "Document in ADF" on Canon MX340

  - by Michael Donohue

  I have a Canon MX340 multifunction printer. Recently, it keeps saying "Document in ADF" when I turn on the printer. I've tried clearing this multiple times, but as soon as the feeder wheels stop turning, in an attempt to clear the document feeder, it just pops up the same error again. This is particularly annoying, as it blocks all functions on the device - I cannot print, even though printing has no interaction with the document feeder. I've opened up the feeder device, as much as can be done with fingers alone. There just doesn't seem to be anything in there. I ran a sheet of paper through about six times, just to see if some dust might be getting in the way, and I've blown out the feeder with air. Still nothing. At this point, I don't care too much about the ADF working, I just want to disable whatever sensor is tripping this error message. Any ideas? I found this thread online, where a user has the same problem. But no resolution was reached there.

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• What are my options in replacing the noisy fan in my Linksys Cisco SRW2008P managed GigE switch?

  - by Fred Sobotka

  My first managed GigE switch, the Linksys SRW2008, was a dream, until it started randomly chattering on various ports. That started while I was on the road all the time, which made it take forever to diagnose, but that's a different problem. When I finally determined that the switch was bad, it was still covered by warranty by Linksys/Cisco, so I opened an RMA ticket and returned it. Unfortunately, Linksys/Cisco "upgraded" my replacement switch to a SRW2008P, which has Power over Ethernet features I never planned on using. That by itself wasn't so bad, but it's my guess that the inclusion of PoE functions in this model required a tiny, super-loud internal fan to keep everything cool. This wasn't something I wanted or asked for, but, now that I am stuck with it, I am investigating options for replacing that little internal fan with something far quieter. For example, if I attach a larger fan to the outsite of the chassis, I think it could push enough air to replace the stock fan that is currently there. Any advice on carrying this out? I have no interest in melting my switch due to insufficient ventilation.

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• On Ubuntu get: "-bash: ./flume No such file or directory" BUT flume is there and executable. Same binary OK on RHEL

  - by lcbrevard

  This is already posted in serverfault - and may be more apprpriate there. Reworked a bit from the orginal posting. We have a product built on CentOS 4 32-bit Linux that runs unmodified on 32- and 64-bit CentOS/RHEL 4 and 5 and SLES 10. It also runs unmodified on SLES 9 64-bit. [SLES 9 32-bit requires a different libstdc++.] The name of the main binary executable is 'flume' Yesterday we tried to put this on 64-bit Ubuntu 10 and, even though the file is there and the right size, we get: -bash: ./flume: No such file or directory 'file flume' shows it to be a 32-bit ELF (can't remember the exact output and the system is on an isolated network) If put into /usr/local/bin, then 'which flume' returns: /usr/local/bin/flume The file is marked as executable (did 'chmod +x flume') and lsattr shows no problems with attribute bits. I was not able to try 'ldd flume' yet. I have also not tried 'strace flume'. Currently I am with an air conditioning failure. [It's been that kind of week!] I now suspect that some library is not there. This is a profoundly unhelpful message and one I have never seen before. Is this peculiar to Ubuntu or perhaps just to this installation. We gave up and moved to a RHEL 4 system and everything is fine. But I sure would like to know what causes this.

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• Laptop CPU fan not working properly

  - by Smith

  My laptop's CPU fan is suddenly acting very bizarre, and I am at a loss for what to do so I am asking for some help. Specifically, the fan is not even starting to spin until the CPU reaches 60 degrees Celsius (checked through HWmonitor). Once it is on, however, it properly stays on even when the CPU gets back to idle temps around 38 Celsius. Before, the fan was simply starting with the computer and staying on like normal. I've checked this for consistency both by allowing cold boots to ramp up temperature to 60 Celsius (the slow climb also causing the laptop to become unreasonably warm near the heatsink), and also running Prime95 immediately to kickstart the fan (this works every time). The fan seems to be stationary when turning the computer on from either sleep or shutdown. The fan will start at POST very briefly, and then stop completely. I've checked the BIOS for a SmartFan setting but haven't found any. I've opened the case to check for dust or debris and have not found anything (I applied some canned air to the area just in case). The laptop is a Lenovo ThinkPad Edge E430 and the CPU is an Intel Core i5 3210m @ 2.5 GHz. Any advice would really be appreciated.

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