Search Results

Search found 1228 results on 50 pages for 'asus'.

Page 45/50 | < Previous Page | 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50  | Next Page >

• Server freezes while installing Redhat Enterprise Linux Server 6

  - by eisaacson

  We've tried both the first options Install or upgrade an existing system Install system with basic video driver When trying option #1, it gets to a screen that has a solid cursor about halfway down, then freezes. When trying option #2, it freezes at the point where it says: Waiting for hardware to initialize... Of course, we bought the unsupported version and haven't found anything to help us so far. Here are the specs to the server in the original post: ASUS P8Z68-M Pro LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS RAIDMAX Reiter ATX-305WBP Black Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case 450W Power Supply Intel Core i7-2600 Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2000 BX80623I72600 16GB Ram OCZ Agility 3 SSD 120GB From some of the posts out there could the UEFI Bios or the Sandy Bridge processor be a culprit here? We just tried the DVD on a different computer and it got past that point with ease. It's a standard Dell build compared to our custom machine. Could it be having difficulty recognizing drivers? How do we get past that?

  Read the article

• Process to replace motherboard and keep CPU

  - by jolivier

  My motherboard has been diagnosed with the Sandy Bridge issue (http://vip.asus.com/eservice/changeSandybridge_MB.aspx?slanguage=en-us) so I am asked by my reseller to send back my motherboard to have a new one compatible with the previous one. My problem is that I have a not cheap Intel CPU currently on it, with its standard heatsink/fan. I would obviously like to keep it to plug it on the new motherboard. I am quite woried about the thermal paste. I was planning to: Remove the CPU and the HSF together (I think they are sticked to each other). Try to separate the CPU and the HSF (I'm not sure how) Clean both of the surfaces When the new motherboard is here, put the CPU back on it. Have new thermal paste to put again on the CPU, put it on the CPU Add the HSF again Do you see any problem about this process? Recommendations? Is it possible to keep the CPU and the HSF together for the whole process or is it impossible to plug the CPU back on the new motherboard in this case? Thanks in advance for your answers. Olivier

  Read the article

• Windows 7 BSOD when I walk away from the computer

  - by bobobobo

  I have a really weird experience with this new AM3 box I set up. Everything seems fine at first. But now I get frequent (daily) BSOD's, mostly when I walk away from the computer for more than 5 minutes (when the computer is idle). The BSOD's as shown by BlueScreenView almost always have to do with ntoskrnl.exe, and they'll do with really normal sounding operations, like SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION, NTFS_FILE_SYSTEM, DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL, KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED, BAD_POOL_HEADER - You name it. These are basically them, and they repeat after that, just random order. Its not like one is more consistently the problem than the other. I have Windows update ON and I let it do its updates everytime it wants to. I turned windows indexing service off, but it seems Windows 7 does a lot of background processing when I'm away - I'll come into the room and the fan will be going nuts (I'm pretty sure this isn't because the computer flies into a panic whenever I leave). I tried finding updates for my ASUS, and really there isn't much to install (except some new driver firmware). I'm going to install that to see if it helps, but what else could it be? Is it possible its a hardware issue with the board? Or is every Windows 7 user experiencing daily BSOD these days that I don't know about?

  Read the article

• How can I update generic non-pnp monitor?

  - by njk

  Background I've been running a KVM switch with my monitor at 1920 x 1080 over VGA for over a year. Did a Windows Update on 12/11/12 which did the following: Update for Windows 7 for x64-based Systems (KB2779562) Security Update for Windows 7 for x64-based Systems (KB2779030) Cumulative Security Update for Internet Explorer 8 for Windows 7 for x64-based Systems (KB2761465) Windows Malicious Software Removal Tool x64 - December 2012 (KB890830) Security Update for Windows 7 for x64-based Systems (KB2753842) Security Update for Windows 7 for x64-based Systems (KB2758857) Security Update for Windows 7 for x64-based Systems (KB2770660) After a restart, my extended monitor was dark. I attempted to reset the extended display configuration, and noticed my monitor was being detected as a Generic Non-PnP Monitor: I uninstalled, downloaded new, and re-installed display drivers. Nothing. I attempted to unplug my monitor from the power for 15 minutes. Nothing. I followed some of the suggestions on this thread; specifically DanM's which suggested to create a new *.inf file and replace that in Device Manager. Device Manager said the "best driver software for your device is already installed". The only thing that works is when the monitor is directly attached to the laptop. This obviously is not what I want. My thought is to somehow remove the Generic Non-PnP Monitor from registry. How would I accomplish this and would this help? Any other suggestions? Relevant Hardware ASUS VE276 Monitor TRENDnet 2-Port USB KVM Switch (TK-207K) HP Laptop w/ ATI Radeon HD 4200 Screens

  Read the article

• I can't get my PC to start up by a normal way.

  - by ssice

  I couldn't write a more accurate title. I am just unable to start the computer by pressing the Power On button. I checked the Power Supply and it seems to give good voltage values in every pin. And this is not a BIOS malfunction because of bad overclocking or anything that may come to your mind. And I will tell you why. It happens that EPS (or any ATX-based) power supply has the ability to be powered-on by the Motherboard by jumping the 13th pin of the 24-pin-ATX-connector to COM/GND. I did it, after pushing the power on button (without any visual response) and, pwhaa! The machine turned on. I was able to read (and even write, if I wanted) BIOS values and then start any OS installed. Machine starts, so it's not any kind of misconfiguration. It seems some hardware related. I am able to power the machine on only if I already pushed the power on button. Though pushing it without jumping the 13th pin to ground for a second does not power the machine. Of course, jumping the pin without pushing the power on button does not tell the motherboard anything, so the computer would not start up either. It's as if the logic that connects the power button with the 13th pin derivation to GND was unable to be activated. What can be the issue? How can I solve it? My configuration is as follows: CPU: AMD Phenom 9850 X4 Black Edition MB: ASUS Formula II AM2 RAM: 2x2GB Corsair Dominator 5-5-5-15 2T @ 1066MHz DDR2 Tested also with only 1 module GPU: 2x XFX nVIDIA GeForce 9600 GT XxX Alpha Dog Edition @ Core: 540Mhz [SLi] Power Supply: Xilence 700W (ATX 12V 2.3 / EPS 12V 2.92 compatible) PS: I know the machine is like 2 years old. I hardly use it now, but my parents do.

  Read the article

• How to make a bootable USB drive out of a bootable DVD or CD

  - by Svish

  Is there a "universal" way of how you can make a bootable USB drive out of a bootable dvd or cd? What makes a USB drive bootable? What makes a dvd and cd bootable? For example there is a program called UNetBootin which can make bootable USB drives, but seems like it only works with various linux distributions. (Tried it with a Win7 image and the SystemRescueCD, which didn't work so well...). Main reason I ask is that I have a Support DVD which came with an Asus EEE, and it of course doesn't have an external dvd drive. So I am curious if I can sort of move that dvd over to a USB drive so that I can use it without buying one. Not asking just specifically about this one case though, I am curious to know a bit more about this in general. So, if you have a general bootable DVD or CD (Or a DVD or CD image for that matter), could be linux distro, windows install disk, support disks, etc., is it possible to "move" it over to a USB drive and make that work like the DVD or CD did? (Being bootable and all).

  Read the article

• Sudden and frequent hangs on desktop computer: mobo or CPU fault?

  - by djechelon

  I have a desktop computer equipped with an ASUS Crosshair 2 Formula and a Phenom x6 3.2GHz CPU. My problem is that often the computer will hang all of a sudden, completely stopping responding. When that occurs, reset key is inoperative and power button turns the computer off but is unable to turn it back on. I have to physically disconnect power cable. The problem can occur anytime, when I'm booting Windows, when I'm logging in, when I'm listening to a song, when I'm browsing Internet, etc. It always occurs after very few minutes of 3D gameplay I thought it was a video card fault. I had 3 8800GTX so I could try all combinations of them: didn't fix I thought it was a RAM problem: I tried running with only a subset of my DDR2 banks but didn't fix. Almost every time I have to reset and reconfigure BIOS (without AHCI, Win7 won't boot, so I need to restore a few things). If I enable AMD Live, Cool&Quiet or other things from CPU configuration menu I'll be sure that the computer won't reach Windows desktop in 99% of cases (it randomly hangs somewhere in the boot process or even in the BIOS POST). Another interesting thing is that during the POST process the computer always takes unusually long time detecting USB devices (LCD POSTer shows USB INIT), and I've also tried disconnecting all USB devices but didn't take less time to POST BIOS revision is 2702, the latest. Today I found a different behaviour once: during boot screen I got a BSOD with error Stop 0x00000101 A clock interrupt was not received on a secondary processor within the allocated time interval, and this is usually related to overclocking, but I never overclocked my CPU. Judging from the description of my problem, hoping someone had the same and fixed, and since I don't have a spare CPU or motherboard for replacement, I'd like to ask if you think this is a problem with faulty CPU or faulty motherboard, and if I can perform additional tests (I mean software tests because of my lack of spare components) to identify the component to replace.

  Read the article

• Switched from DVI to HDMI, possible audio artifacts?

  - by I take Drukqs

  I'm using an ASUS VH236H monitor and an EVGA GeForce 570 GTX both of which are brand new. My monitor has an audio out port for speakers/headphones so I plugged in my headphones and made a random selection from my library when I noticed two things: There are static-like artifacts during "louder" parts of songs. There's what seems to be a volume cap in place. When I crank the volume past 100% in VLC the decibel level does not truly increase but the amount of static does. The cable is not new; I yanked it off of my PS3 when my DVI cable broke. It has been used a good amount on my HDTV and PS3 so I doubt it's a matter of burn-in. I like the way the setup works with an HDMI cable as opposed to DVI because my headphones barely reach my rig whereas I have plenty of slack when they're plugged into my monitor. Thanks in advance for any support. Note: I'm using a high quality HDMI cable from monoprice, AKG K702 headphones, and VLC media player.

  Read the article

• Modify or disable Windows 8 swipe gestures on touchpad / laptop

  - by Matsemann

  I have an ASUS G75VW laptop with a Synaptic touchpad (/trackpad). When I move my finger from one edge towards the middle (the swipe), Windows 8 will bring up different stuff. This is a problem because the area where I can actually move the mouse with my finger is too small (or, I mostly use the top left of the touchpad). So I often end up doing a swipe and bringing up some menu, or to do the swipe so slow that no menu is appearing but the mouse pointer is also not moving when I move my finger. Quite annoying. When swiping from left edge it earlier swapped apps like crazy. I disabled that, so now it only brings up the same menu as pressing win+tab (or some times the charms bar, I never know which). I could change that by: Win+I - Change PC settings - General - When I swipe from the left edge, switch directly to my most recent app I've tried Mouse settings in Control Panel, driver settings for my touchpad and searching for swipe and gestures on my computer (which was what led me to the setting above) with no luck. How can I disable the swipe gestures, or change what they do? Thanks.

  Read the article

• How do I determine how future-proof and stable a router is?

  - by Aarthi

  I mentioned in my last question that my wireless router had a bad habit of crashing. After consulting with the Super User chatroom, as well as my sysadmin, I've decided I may as well purchase a new router. However, I'm unsure how to evaluate all these tech specs that get touted about. The two things that seem to be the most important to me are: (1) keeping my router future-proof (as standards evolve and change), and (2) ensuring its stability. Unfortunately, I'm not sure what, exactly, I should be looking for in the tech specs or the item description that can give me a good idea of how stable or future-proof my decide will be. What should I look for? Can I determine stability without having to try the device out myself? Please note: I'm not a battle-hardened power user by any means, so I'll likely be reliant on the given firmware for my router. My last router lasted me like four years, so I mostly just want something that'll cover a 500 sqft apartment in New York with minimal crashing, so that I can watch Hulu in peace. And make Skype calls. If it helps, the router models that I'm currently decided between are this ASUS one and this LinkSys one.

  Read the article

• SATA DVD drive refuses to read movie DVDs

  - by poke

  Hey, I have a problem with my DVD Drive (Asus DRW-2014L1T, most current firmware installed) on Windows 7 x64. When I insert a DVD movie and Windows starts to access the drive (for autoplay, or when I manually click on the drive icon), my computer hangs up in a particular way, while trying to read the disk. Explorer stops reacting and several programs won't run or their launch is horribly delayed (like the device manager). In th end, I can't access the movie and can't even eject the disk (probably because Windows is still trying to access it). To get the disk out of the drive I then have to reboot (which sometimes doesn't work either) and eject the disk before Windows boots. BIOS recognizes the drive just fine, and Windows is also able to read data disks (tried it with some software disks), but just refuses any movies. I have checked the region code in the device manager, but it is correct. My notebook is reading the disks just fine btw.. I remember having the same problem with an older drive as well, but I don't remember what I did to make it work again (maybe I didn't even fix the problem back then). I do remember however that booting with the disk inserted made Windows recognize the disk, however this doesn't work in this situation either. Do you have any idea what to do to fix that problem?

  Read the article

• Dual-head monitor system Kubuntu 10.04

  - by andrii

  I have a notebook Asus V6X00V with 1400*1050 monitor(name: LVDS) and Dell Monitor 1920*1080 (VGA-0). I want to have a dual monitor system. At MS Windows everything is working fine. During the Kubuntu installation the Dell and the main notebook monitors have a right resolutions(1920*1080 & 1400*1050). But after some stage it have been changed to the 1152*864 for both. Now the right resolution is only during turning off process and when I am using the console. So it shows that system can use this resolutions. The problem is just in a settings. I am using Size & Orientation - System Settings for setting adjustment. Any option that changes resolution for any monitor or changing position(Absolute, Left Of, Right of and so on) cause the color line noise on the screens. I have tried xrandr: xrandr --output LVDS --mode 1400x1050 --pos 0x0 --output VGA-0 --mode 1920x1080 --right-of LVDS --pos 1400x0 but have received the same result. I have find out that for example the previous version of Randr(1.2, now I have xrandr 1.3) need a xorg.conf file modification to create a big virtual screen, but kubuntu 10.4 don't have xorg.conf and I don't know should I modify xorg for 1.3 version of xrandr or not. Please help me to solve this problem

  Read the article

• Building My First Computer And Suprise It Isn't Working

  - by BobbShots

  I've had many years of experience working on and around computers, but this was my first foray into building one completely from scratch. So far that foray has been a disaster. My rig is completely assembled, and on its maiden power-up plus many power cycles I noticed three things: There were a few beeps from the BIOS POST upon powering up the first time, but I wasn't paying attention completely to the sequence. However, every time after that there are 0 POST beeps, even after taking off all hardware except the CPU and MB. There was no video being sent to the monitor. I run a HDMI cable from my video card to the monitor. The video card was LOUD. My card is a Sapphire Radeon HD 5870 which is known for not only being a powerhouse, but being pretty quiet. A few times during my power cycles it ran a lot quieter, but most of the time it was just super loud. Can anyone provide help for any of these issues? My MB, CPU, and Video Card are: MB: ASUS P6X58D Premium LGA 1366 Intel X58 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard CPU: i7 920 Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 5870

  Read the article

• Dialog box tells me there's a missing driver when installing 64-bit version of Windows 7

  - by Eikern

  I'm trying to install Windows 7 64-bit on my computer (ASUS P6T Deluxe V2, one 80GB HDD and two 1 TB HDDs). When I'm supposed to select whether I want to Upgrade or do a Custom install, I get a dialog box telling me: Load Driver A required CD/DVD drive device driver is missing. If you have a driver floppy disk, CD, DVD, or USB flash drive, please insert it now. Note: If the Windows installation media is in the CD/DVD drive, you can safely remove it for this step. I've tried to reach this step using a 32-bit installation disc, but that doesn't generate this message at all. Through the command windows (shift-F10) I can reach all of my drives, including my optical drive, without any problems--so what kind of device driver is it the installation wants? I've tried all the obvious drivers on the CD that followed my motherboard, but I can't seem to find the right one. The problem is that I don't know what device I'm supposed to load the drivers for in the first place. Can anyone help me? Edit: It turned out that my downloaded image was corrupted. I borrowed a DVD from a friend of mine, which worked!

  Read the article

• AHCI, Windows 7 and can only boot with Windows DVD present

  - by Rob Pridham

  Foolishly, I installed Windows 7 with my new SSD set to IDE. I would like to change it to AHCI. I have done this before, with a different motherboard. What happens: I set the controller to AHCI in the BIOS; I also check correct boot order On boot, I get the 'BOOTMGR not found' error I use the Windows Recovery Console on the DVD Diskpart etc can see the disks, and bootrec claims to have rewritten the MBR/bootloader I reboot, same problem Recovery Console again and it detects a problem, fixes, reboots Recovery Console again and it detects the OS, and a problem - fixes, reboots I ignore the 'press any key to boot from DVD' prompt Windows boots fine I restart without the DVD and I'm back to square one That optional 'press a key to boot from DVD' stage is something that the recovery process introduces - normally you have to choose to boot to the DVD at the BIOS stage. You also see this when installing Windows. I suspect that whatever temporary state that is is compatible with AHCI - but not the standard it returns to. I have done the msahci/iaStorV registry hacks to no avail (this worked with the previous board). I can put it back to IDE where normal service is resumed. The board is an Asus M5A99X, the southbridge is AMD SB950, and this is Windows 7 x64. I would quite like not to have to reinstall it again. Any ideas as to what I can do as a permanent fix?

  Read the article

• Flickering dual screens in Virtual Box Ubuntu 13.10 Guest

  - by alexleonard

  I have Ubuntu 13.10 x64 installed as a guest in VirtualBox (under a Windows 8.1 host) and have the settings for the virtual machine setup to run with a monitor count of 2, 128MB video memory and 3D acceleration enabled. In my guest I have the virtual box additions installed (which allowed me to have two 1920x1080 screens). Here's a screenshot of my VM settings. My laptop is an Asus N550JV which has both Intel's HD Graphics 4600 GPU and Nvidia's GeForce GT 750M. By default though I believe the Intel GFX card is being used to render the VM. When I boot up the VM it loads perfectly on dual screens, however whenever I move the mouse from one screen to the other (I have a Dell S2340L running over a HDMI connection as a second screen) the screen flickers. I've tried a variety of settings changes in both Ubuntu and the VM settings, but cannot seem to stop this screen flicker. I also used the NVidia control panel in Windows to force the dedicated graphics card to always be used but found that the display driver sometimes crashed whilst working in the VM, resulting in my VM session being destroyed, so I figured it's better to stick with the Intel GFX as that appears to be more stable. I also tried without 3D acceleration but that was much worse, and if I ran the VM with a low amount of graphics memory it really struggled. Here's my dmesg output: http://pastebin.com/1LJuYWMj (not sure if this is helpful in this situation). I read some posts suggesting changes to /etc/X11/xorg.conf but I don't appear to have an xorg.conf file. There were also a few posts (though related to Synergy) suggesting running xset -dpms but this command doesn't appear to have had any effect for me. As an additional note, I'm finding that window drawing in the guest is a little laggy/glitchy. For example, quickly scrolling through a web page may result in parts of the viewport displaying original content. Certainly I notice drawing issues most in the web browser, but it also impacts other software with parts of the window not being drawn when, say, switching between accounts in thunderbird. Any suggestions greatly appreciated!

  Read the article

• Basic connectivity issues between Win 7 and XP mixed wired/wireless network.

  - by Pulse

  Setup: Windows 7 x64 Ultimate desktop hard wired to Asus WL500gp router (WL500gpv2-1.9.2.7-d-r1445 firmware) Several Bridged VirtualBox VM's running XP, 7, ubuntu server 10.04, Mint 9 and SuSE 11.2 Win XP Pro SP3 notebook with D-Link Airplus wireless network card. No firewall or other security software currently running on either platform (at least for the duration of the test) Situation: Router is acting DHCP server Clients are receiving correct addresses and additional parameters Internet connectivity is available from all clients Windows 7 sharing is set to Network type = work (not home group) NetBT is disabled on all clients using smb over TCP What I can do: I can ping the router and internet addresses from the wireless XP notebook I can ping the Win 7 desktop and any VM from the XP wireless notebook I can ping all devices from the router All VM's and 7 can ping each other and the router as well as Internet addresses What I can't do: I cannot ping the XP wireless notebook from either The Win 7 desktop or the VM's it alwats returns a destination host unreachable. Tracert resolves the name or the XP notebook but also returns a destination host unreachable. From the above it would seem that something is blocking connectivity in a single direction (from the Win 7 box to the Win XP notebook) only but the router can ping the XP notebook. Some fresh input would be most welcome, as this is beginning to drive me batty. Thanks

  Read the article

• Extending a home wireless network using two routers running tomato

  - by jalperin

  I have two Asus RT-N16 routers each flashed with Tomato (actually Tomato USB). UPSTAIRS: Router 'A' (located upstairs) is connected to the internet via the WAN port and connected via a LAN port to a 10/100/1000 switch (Switch A). Several desktops are also attached to Switch A. Router A uses IP 192.168.1.1. DOWNSTAIRS: I've just acquired Router 'B' and set it to IP 192.168.1.2. I have a cable running from Switch A downstairs to another switch (Switch B). Tivo, a blu-ray player and a Mac are connected to Switch B. My plan was to connect Router B to Switch B so that I have improved wireless access downstairs. (The wireless signal from Router A gets weak downstairs in a number of locations.) How should I configure Router B so that all devices in the house can see and talk to one another? I know that I need to change DHCP on Router B so that it doesn't cover the same range as DHCP on Router A. Should I be using WDS on the two routers, or is that unnecessary since I already have a wired connection between the two routers? Any other thoughts or suggestions? Thanks! --Jeff

  Read the article

• Problem mirroring two monitors with different resolution

  - by quad

  Hello I am trying to put two monitors in mirror mode (Windows 7 Professional) with Ultramon 3.1.0. The two monitors: Main monitor: 24" Asus. 1680x1050 resolution (16/10). Secondary monitor: 19" LG. 1280x1024 resolution. The graphic card is a Nvidia GeForce 8600 GT. I have installed the Ultramon 3.1.0 and I have created a mirror, with the "stretch mirror image to fill monitor" and the "disable video overlays and 3D acceleration". When I start the mirroring, there are two zones in the lateral edges that are not displayed in the second monitor. I think this is because the width of the main monitor is 1680 px. and the width of the secondary monitor is 1280 px., but I have indicated "stretch mirror image to fill monitor" in the options. The same occurs in the top and the bottom edges, but the diference is minimal (1050 vs 1024 pixels). I want the same image (distortioned in the secondary monitor if is neccesary), but I don't know what is failing. Someone can help me, please? I have read Mirrored monitors of different resolution. Cloned screen on monitors with different resolutions

  Read the article

• Troubleshooting an overheating CPU

  - by Jeff Fry

  I & my father just recently put together a new PC. Specs below. From the very beginning, on boot it will often complain that the CPU is too hot. If I sit in BIOS and watch the CPU, it'll drop back down from red to blue (<72C), at which point I've tended to just boot into Windows...and haven't had any problems. In fact, I've played a couple hours straight of Skyrim at max settings, and not had any visible issues. That said, I've occasionally walked away & come back to find that it's crashed. Yesterday, it crashed (while idle) twice in 12 hours, which shifted the balance from busy-with-life to nervous-I'm-about-to-melt-something. I just installed Core Temp which is showing my 4 cores fluxuating between 70-98C. I'm guessing at this point that the CPU fan may be incorrectly installed or defective. My first thought is to either (a) add water cooling (which the case supports) and / or (b) replace the CPU fan with an after-market one. That said, I'm very open to suggestions. A note, while I certainly don't want to burn money here, I have a baby coming any day now and am still unpacking from a recent move so if I have a choice between an option that costs money and another that takes a while...I'll happily spend a bit extra. Side question: Should I be nervous to even have this on at this point? Let me know if there's something useful I could add to my report. Otherwise, I'm looking forward to your suggestions! Thanks. CPU Intel i7-2600 CPU w/ stock fan Other HW ASUS P8Z68-V Pro motherboard 64G SSD boot drive 4 older SATA HDs GIGABYTE ATI Radeon HD6950 1 GB DDR5 8G Kingston T1 Series RAM Corsair 650W Gold Certified power supply Antec P280 case

  Read the article

• Upgrading memory in a laptop

  - by ulidtko

  I'm a bit confused about all the memory types and various bus frequencies of modern consumer PCs. Requesting expert help on the subject. So far I'm confident that: I have an Asus X51L laptop with an unknown set of configuration options. The CPU in there supports PAE, so I still have a chance to extend the memory beyond 3GiB; and the upper limit of the system is 8GiB. (?) The laptop has two SODIMM slots, one of which is occupied by a 2GiB bank, and the other one is empty. dmidecode and lshw tools consistently state 533 Mhz frequency of the bank. The last one confuses me the most. I failed to find out characteristics of the northbridge in this laptop, and still can't figure out what DDR2 to seek for. Is it DDR2-1066? Or, rather, PC2-8500/PC2-8600? Wouldn't a DDR2-800 bank harm the system's performance? Which kind of modules should I look up in stores? Update: I have bought a 2 GiB DDR2-800 SODIMM, and it seams that the system can't handle 4 GiB of memory. When installed by itself in either slot, both new and old bank (which btw happens to be marked GDDR2-677) work just perfectly; i.e. any configuration resulting in 2 GiB works. When both banks are installed though (totalling in 4 GiB), the memcheck86 tool produces horrible artifacts and crashes, and system reboots; an Ubuntu system can be started and even logged into a Unity session, but the system reboots too in this case from even a minor RAM load. So it's pretty obvious to me now that this laptop doesn't support 4 GiB of RAM or more.

  Read the article

• Host system resets (crashes) when using VMWare or VirtualBox and 64-bit guest systems

  - by sinni800

  I have been trying to install virtual systems on VMWare for a while now and encountered strange behaviour from my PC. The behaviour is as follows: On "automatic" virtualization mode it either outputs a cryptic error message (can MAYBE give later, if I can reproduce) right on startup (before even the BIOS) or it resets the complete HOST system (blackscreen, bios...) If I install a Windows XP on it it works well on "binary translation" mode. If I try installing Linux on it, in "binary translation" mode it crashes 1 or 2 seconds after I hit enter on the GRUB selection screen (after the first page of kernel messages rolled in) Using VirtualBox it crashes right in the BIOS. It gave me a Bluescreen though! 0x00000101: CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT: a clock interrupt was not received on a secondary processor within the allocated time interval NEWS: I tried VirtualBox again and it did not completely crash the computer this time. It gave me a critical error and a log file: http://pastebin.com/yKZSDs91 In conclusion, it will crash instantly if VT-x is activated. If not, it seemingly only crashed if I try to install something with 64 bits. Another update: Yes, it ONLY crashes when the guest is 64 bit! What I tried: Reinstalling Windows (my Windows installation was quite broken so it seemed natural. Didn't work though.) New BIOS What I am certain of: Virtualization extensions are activated in the BIOS What my computer specs are: ASUS P8P67 LE mainboard, newest BIOS/EFI firmware Intel Core i5 2500k Ati Radeon HD 5770 16 GB Corsair 1333mhz DDR3 RAM, 4 X 4 GB

  Read the article

• Recommended Win2k8 Server software to fix my RAID-0 issue

  - by Jason Kealey

  I'm running an Asus P6T V2 Deluxe. It has six SATA ports and supports onboard RAID. I am using two of those ports for a RAID0 array of 1.5TB Seagate drives using the onboard RAID controller. One of them is giving me SMART warnings and I want to preemptively replace it. I pulled out two other 1.5TB drives from another computer and am ready to use one or both, if necessary. I can't run any SMART diagnostic software from within Windows because it only sees the hardware RAID-0 array, not each individual drive. The first thing I tried was a slow sector-by-sector copy using a free tool called EASEUS Disk Copy. Used the bootdisk, copied (took like 16 hours), unplugged the defective drive and plugged the new one in its place. The motherboard didn't recognize the new drive as being part of the known setup, so it did not want to boot. The second thing I tried was using other software (I forget the name) to copy the partition from within Windows. The first software failed because I had a server operating system. I found another software (I forget the name) which supported a server OS and did a partition copy onto the new drive. This seemed to work and the OS started to boot, but blue screened and started a reboot cycle. I'm assuming the software I was using was no good as it was trying to copy the boot disk while it was in use. I am looking for recommendations on what software to use to fix my problem without doing a re-install. Everything is backed up but my computer works fine and I'd like to avoid re-installation when possible. However, my system would be back up now if I had just started over on a second RAID array. :)

  Read the article

• problem transferring Win 7 operating system hard drive to be used as external hard drive

  - by itserich

  Win 7 Asus MA479 8GB Ram hard drives are 500GB The operating system was a Caviar Green, and I tried to exchange it for a Caviar Blue. The Caviar Blue took the install correctly, but the Green, the prior operating system hard drive, will not allow itself to be used as an external hard drive. I use TrueCrypt and tried to format the Green and it freezes each time at the very end of the encyrption of the partition. I took the Blue out of the system and tried to encrypt it, and same problem. I think there must be something on the hard drive that shows it was a system drive and it causes a conflict. I have tried writing over the system hard drive to fully erase everything but that does not work, it still freezes. The drives will work in a different pc, i.e. other pc where it never was the system drive. The external hard drive is connected esata through Thermaltake. I have used TrueCrypt on various pc's for years including this Win7 with no problem. Thank you.

  Read the article

• Surround in Windows 7 with Soundmax

  - by Henri

  Hey guys, I have a asus m2n motherboard with a Soundmax 1988 chip on it. I want to have surround sound in windows 7, but i cant get it to work. I tried a lot of different drivers, including the latest beta for Win 7. The problem is that when I configure the speakers and i do a "Test" all speakers work. But whenever I want to play some video or mp3, only the front speakers work. In vista there was this option called "Surround Fill" that would fix this problem, however, I cant seem to find that in windows 7. (The enhancements tab is completely gone for the speakers, other output devices do have that tab). Anybody knows the fix? Edit: I got it now kind of working by using a trial version of SRS AudioSandbox. However, the quality is quite bad since the program tries to create a real 5.1 of stereo sound. I just want to have stereo over 4 speakers instead of fake 5.1 over 4 speakers.

  Read the article

< Previous Page | 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50  | Next Page >