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  • How should I convert a physical drive to a VHD for use with VirtualPC?

    - by RBerteig
    I have the hard disks from a PC that was happily running Windows Me until is it suffered an unknown hardware failure. The drives are intact, and can be mounted and read on other PCs. We have data backups, but there is licensed software installed that may not be possible to migrate to newer versions running on a more modern platform making the idea of just booting a virtual image attractive. Is it possible to make VHDs from the drives such that I can boot them in VirtualPC? If not VirtualPC, would it be possible in any other virtualization tool? Edit: Some more details.... The system was running Windows Me, but upgraded from Windows 95 (or possibly 98). It can't have been more than a Pentium II, but I will have to look at the motherboard to confirm that. There were no "exotic" devices installed, and nothing beyond the usual legacy stuff that would need to survive into a virtual machine. The licensed software did not have a dongle, so I won't need to worry about virtualizing a physical dongle of some kind. Licenses were probably died to the disk serial number. There were two HDs, both IDE. The boot disk is about 6GB, and the spare data disk is 12GB, but nearly empty. I have a small bias in favor of VirtualPC just because its free and I've used it successfully in the past. But this is a good excuse to revisit the state of the art. I do know from direct experience that it is possible to install and boot DOS 5.0 and Win95 in VirtualPC, but the VM extensions weren't available so the experience isn't as seamless as I would have liked. A very old DirectX game that failed miserably under XP SP2 runs really nicely on that VM, and actually plays better in a lot of ways than it did on period hardware, so that gives me hope that this is possible. Edit 2: Well, I'm closer than I was when I asked... so thanks to all for helpful suggestions and hints to what I should be trying. I used WinImage to copy the disks, and VirtualPC 2007 to attempt to boot. So far, I have it booting in safe mode, but hanging with a black screen otherwise. I strongly suspect that the copy of Artisoft Lantastic 8.0 (anyone else remember them?) that is still installed for networking with even older PCs that mostly don't exist any more is the culprit there. In my infinite free time, I will try to resolve the differences between a Safe Mode boot and a normal boot, and feel that it is likely to yield to pressure. I'd accept more than one answer if I could... this isn't as black and white a question as the one accepted answer convention assumes.

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  • Lag spikes at full CPU usage, maybe video card

    - by Roberts
    I am posting this thread in hurry so few things may be missed (I will update tomorrow). My PC specs: Motherboard Name - Gigabyte GA-945PL-S3 CPU Type - DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo E4300, 1800 MHz (9 x 200) OS - Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate OS Kernel Type - 32-bit OS Version - 6.1.7601 I bougth a new video card one month ago. GeForce 210. I didn't have any problems. I wanted to overclock it, in other words: "Play with it". So I installed Gigabyte EasyBoost from CD and overclocked the GPU 590 + 110 mhz, memory to max to 960mhz from 800mhz. Benchmarks showed a little bit bigger score. Then I overclocked shader clock from 1405 to [..] (don't remeber really). So I was playing Modern Warfare 2 when off sudden computer froze when I wanted to select team, I was afk before that. I had to reset CMOS. After that I had problems with Skype: unread messages and no sound. Then I figured it out that when ever I open EasyBoost - Skype starts to glitch again. Now I use EVGA Precission X. Now after a month, I cleaned computer and closed the case, it was open all the time. I started to overclock GPU clock only (just a bit) because there was no problems that would stop me. So sometimes on heavy CPU load graphics starts to lag. Dragging a window is painful to watch too. Sometimes the screen freezes for 5 to 10 seconds (I can see that hard disk activity is maximal). You may say that CPU fault it is, isn't it? But sometimes lag spikes starts randomly when CPU load is at maximum. All 3 benchmark softwares (PerformanceTest, NovaBench and MSI Kombustor) shows that performance of my video card has dropped about 25%. BUT! CPU score is lower too. I ignored these problems but when I refreshed Windows Experience Index I was shocked. Month before (in latvian language but not so hard to understand): Now (upgraded RAM): This happened when I tried to capture Minecraft with Fraps on underclocked GPU to 580mhz (def: 590mhz): All drivers are up to date. Average CPU temperature from 55°C to 75°C (at 70°C sometimes starts these lag spikes). Video card's tempratures are from 45°C to 60°C (very hard to reach 60°C). So my hope is that the video card is fine, cause this card is very new and I want to upgrade CPU anyways. Aplogies for my mistakes in vocabulary (I am trying to type this as fast I can).

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  • Why do some games randomly turn my screen a random solid color?

    - by Emlena.PhD
    When playing some games my computer will randomly have an error that I cannot fix without turning it off and back on again. The screen changes to one solid color, which varies (off the top of my head I can remember seeing solid green, magenta, etc..) and the sound blares a single tone. The sound sometimes briefly restores and I can still hear the game sounds and even hear and still be heard by people in my Mumble channel, but the screen doesn't right itself so I'm still blind. What's more is this happens in some games but not in others. While the game is actually running, not while I'm still in the menu. However, it does happen if I'm afk or idle but the game world is still rendering. Games where the error occurs: League of Legends World of Warcraft Trine The Sims 2 Dungeon Defenders Safe games: games where it has never occurred: Tribes: Ascend Star Wars: the Old Republic Battlefield 3 So relatively older games cause the problem while newer games do not? I cannot predict when it will happen, it just seems random. However, if it happens and I try playing the same game further after restart it does appear to occur more frequently after the first time. But if I switch to a safe game it doesn't continue happening. Both of my RAM sticks appear fine, flipped position or either one on their own and games still run, computer still boots. I would think over-heating, but then why not all games? ALso, sometimes it happens immediately after I start playing, within seconds of the 3D world booting up. I'm looking to upgrade very soon so I want to figure out what component or software is fubar and replace/repair it. Any suggestions or recommendations of tools would be helpful. Below is some system information. Dxdiag does not detect any problems. Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit (6.1, Build 7601) Service Pack 1 (7601.win7sp1_gdr.120305-1505) System Manufacturer: Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. System Model: EP45-UD3R BIOS: Award Modular BIOS v6.00PG Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU E8500 @ 3.16GHz (2 CPUs), ~3.2GHz Memory: 4096MB RAM DirectX Version: DirectX 11 DxDiag Version: 6.01.7601.17514 64bit Unicode Graphics card name: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 285 Driver Version: 8.17.12.9610 (error has occurred w/several driver versions) Sound: I do not have a sound card, been using motherboard's built in sound)

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  • Need advice on which PCI SATA Controller Card to Purchase

    - by Matt1776
    I have a major issue with the build of a machine I am trying to get up and running. My goal is to create a file server that will service the needs of my software development, personal media storage and streaming/media server needs, as well as provide a strong platform for backing up all this data in a routine, cron-job oriented German efficiency sort of way. The issue is a simple one - all my drives are SATA drives and my motherboard controller only contains 4 ports. Solving the issue has proven to be an unmitigated nightmare. I would like advice on the purchase of the following: 4 Port internal SATA / 2 Port external eSATA PCI SATA Controller Card that has the following features and/or advantages: It must function. If I plug it in and attach drives, I expect my system to still make it to the Operating System login screen. It must function on CentOS, and I mean it must function WELL and with MINIMAL hassle. If hassle is unavoidable, there shall be CLEAR CUT and EASY TO FOLLOW instructions on how to install drivers and other supporting software. I do not need nor want fakeRAID - I will be setting up any RAID configurations from within the operating system. Now, if I am able to find such a mythical device, I would be eternally grateful to whomever would be able to point me in the right direction, a direction which I assume will be paved with yellow bricks. I am prepared to pay a considerable sum of money (as SATA controller cards go) and so paying anywhere between 60 to 120 dollars will not be an issue whatsoever. Does such a magical device exist? The following link shows an "example" of the type of thing I am looking for, however, I have no way of verifying that once I plug this baby in that my system will still continue to function once I've attached the drives, or that once I've made it to the OS, I will be able to install whatever drivers or software programs I need to make it work with relative ease. It doesn't have to be dog-shit simple, but it cannot involve kernels or brain surgery. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00552PLN4/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B003GSGMPU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1HJG60XTZFJ48Z173HKY So does anyone have a suggestion regarding the subject I am asking about? PCI SATA Controller Cards? It would help if you've had experience with the component before - that is after all why I am asking here - for those who have had experience that I do not have. Bear in mind that this is for a home setup and that I do not have a company credit card. I have a budget with a 'relative' upper limit of about $150.00.

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  • Random Computer Crashes

    - by Josh W.
    Ok, here's a wierd one for you all. Occasionally my PC here at work will crash in a very peculiar way. My dual monitors will suddenly go blank as if there is no longer a video signal, the USB mouse light will go dark and mouse stays unresponsive, the keyboard lights will not change status when the appropriate keys are pressed (Num/Caps/Scoll Lock). The CD Tray WILL open and close. But the computer will not respond to a ping request. For all intents & purposes it's as if the computer is off, except it wasn't intentional by me. The power light and internal fans are still on and I've now lost any unsaved work. Now here's where it gets wierd. This PC is part of a batch of PC's we got from a local vendor who does our initial system builds. Mine, and 6 other co-workers PCs all have the same issue. Originally we thought it was a bad combination of hardware, but through trial and error the only thing we haven't eliminated are the OS, Mobo & CPU. The problem was so bad for some of them that they ended up going back to their 5 year old dinosaurs in order to get some work done, for me the problem isn't as bad, maybe once every other day or so, but still enough to bite me in the ass if I've forgotten my ritualistic pressing of CTRL-S every 1-5 minutes. In this case we've tried two different video cards, two different power supplies, two different memory configurations, running on a UPS/not on UPS, updating/rolling back video drivers, three different bios revisions. The only things we haven't swapped are the mobo & cpu, mainly because a new mobo means a new Hardware Abstraction Layer, ie re-install of windows and there's alot of other software on this PC that takes forever to reload by hand. There was a base image that our systems team created with all the drivers installed and the basic setup of software our company uses, but they then must customize the setup for us programmers so it takes a while to get a new configuration up and going. I'm a programmer by day and am usually pretty good at diagnosing computer problems whether through trial and error or not. We've pretty much exhausted all the ideas we can think of here, short of a new mobo/cpu. Was hoping someone out there might have anything else we can try.. Relevant Parts: OS: XP Pro 32-bit Motherboard: Intel DG41RQ CPU: Intel Core-2 Quad Q9400 @ 2.66GHz Current BIOS Version/Date Intel Corp. RQG4110H.86A.0014.2010.0306.1151, 3/6/2010 Dual LCD's, Viewsonic VG930m & Samsung SyncMaster 910v (other people have different models, but listed in case there's some very wierd problem with the signals being sent/received) PS/2 Keyboard USB Microsoft Intellimouse BIOS Versions Tried: R 0013 12/23/2009 R 0014 3/6/2010 Video cards Tried GeForce 8400 GS Radeon HD 4350 - ASUS EAH4350 Two Different Power Supplies a 380W & 550W Ram Configurations 2GB - 1 x 2GB 4GB - 2 x 2GB

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  • What the best way to recover from when your RAID H/W incorrectly thinks a disk is missing

    - by Software Monkey
    I have a Windows 7 system with an MSI motherboard (running the latest AMD BIOS) and two of my four disks (not the system boot disk) configured via the Mobo as RAID-1. After a normal system restart today, the RAID BIOS reports that one of the two drives has been disconnected or has failed. It's not really failed; via recovery tools I can verify that if I take the BIOS out of RAID mode. But I can find no way to re-add the second hard disk to the array and rebuild via the BIOS - the only option seems be to delete the array and recreate it, but I've done that once before and it blows away the disk. It's done this once before, however on a subsequent reboot after double-checking the drive cabling (but not changing anything) and it boot up fine. So I think the mobo RAID is a little bit flaky. At this point I would like to remove the RAID drivers, change to AHCI mode and switch over to using a Windows 7 dynamic mirror disk. But the RAID drivers seem somehow deeply bound into the Windows startup - I can't find anything like the good ol' safe-mode in Windows 7. If I boot from the Win 7 install disk in ACHI mode I can use recovery tools to log in to the Windows 7 installation, so the boot drive it seems fine with ACHI mode. Additionally, I can see all my other disks, run chkdsk on them and they seem to be fine. If I try to boot from the HDD in AHCI mode, it just reboots part way through, presumably because the RAID drivers load and conflict with the BIOS being set to AHCI. So: How do I strip the RAID drivers from my Win 7 installation? If I delete the RAID logical disk, will it really delete partitioning information, or is that just a poorly worded message when it says the data on the disk will be deleted? If I disconnect the 2 disks in a RAID array, then delete the logical disk array, and then reconnect and reboot still in RAID mode, will the disks simply revert to RAID single-disks like my other 2 and then maybe I can leave windows with RAID drivers by operate the disks as singles with 2 of them in a Windows dynamic disk mirrored setup? Does Windows 7 have anything like the Windows XP Repair Install, where it will reinstall the O/S binaries from CD, but leave apps and setup alone. I am really hoping I don't have to do a complete reinstall of Windows 7 - the last one, when I upgraded from XP, took me two days to get everything set up and installed.

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  • How should I use my new SSD drive?

    - by jasondavis
    I just built a new PC the other day. Specs... Processor: Intel i7-930 quad core CPU CPU Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Motherboard: AsRock X58 Extreme 3 RAM/Memory: 6gb G-Skill tripple channel DDR3 memory (3 sticks of 2gb planning to get another kit to make it 12gb total soon) Operating System Hard drive: Intel X25-M 80GB Mainstream SATA2 Solid State Drive Video Cards: 2 XFX ATI Redeon HD 4650 cards to run 3-4 monitors Case: Lian Li PC-B10 Midtower case Power Supply: Antec TruePower New TP-750 Blue 750W Operating System Windows 7 Pro 64bit Not sure if the specs are helpful at all but I posted them just in case. So I got everything put together and running great so far but I need some advice/ideas/help/tips. I got the SSD drive in hopes of using it strictly for my windows 7 install along with all my other programs I install. I am then going to get another drive or 2 just for data (video,music,photos, etc). So my plan is to just install the new data drives and then in windows 7 I will change my "My documents" "My Music" "My Video" "MY Photos" library's to be located on the data drives instead of the OS SSD drive. I would ultimately like to install all my programs with my windows install on the SSD drive and then create an IMAGE of the drive and then 6 months down the road if things are sluggish I can just wipe the drive and restore my IMAGE with all my programs and settings in tact still. So here are some questions now. 1) How can I verify that TRIM is working on my new SSD? 2) Is there anything above that I missed that I should be doing? I think I once read that there is a page file or some sort of file that windows changes a lot and that it should be moved off f an SSD an onto my data drives. DOes anyone know what I might of heard? If you do can you explain the pros and cons of doing such a thing as well as how to possibly? 3) Any tips or advice to get the best performance from all this, I built a pretty nice system and I just want to make it stay that way as long as I can.

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  • Graphics card artifacting

    - by White Phoenix
    This is my current build: EVGA X58 (first generation) motherboard Intel i7 965 @ stock clocks 3x 2GB DDR3-1600 Corsair RAM at stock timings and voltages Corsair AX750 80 Plus Gold PSU 1 Optical Drive 1 Seagate 7200.10 500 GB drive 2x Western Digital Caviar Black 1 TB drives OCZ Vertex 1 60 GB EVGA GTX 460 Antec 1200 case HT-Omega Striker 7.1 Sound Card Windows 7 32-bit Professional (PAE Enabled) My graphics card started artifacting while I was playing a game. It artifacted, the display blinked, then I got an NVIDIA driver has crashed and recovered message. Kept going, more artifacts, another crash, but this time my display blanked out and I couldn't do anything. Restarted my computer - artifacting is in the BIOS - got to Windows 7 but it BSOD'd before I could even log in. I restarted the computer again - artifacts cleared themselves out and I managed to get to Win7, but it soon started blinking in and out and artifacting again. Checked the card temps and they're well within range. (50 idle, 70 full load) The ambient temperature here is about 80-85F with high humidity. Tried Safe Mode and it still froze up/BSOD'd. Already tried the following to fix this problem: - Reseat the graphics card and swapped in a different slot. - Removed cover on card and sprayed with compressed air to clean it out. - Swapped around memory and/or went with only using one stick at a time. - Underclocked card I called EVGA Tech Support and they said that the voltage on the 12V rail of my Corsair AX750 PSU was on the high end of the "acceptable" range (12.4V, highest within acceptable range is 12.6V - optimal is obviously 12V). They gave me an RMA number anyway, but I want to get a second opinion from you all before I send this thing off, as shipping from where I live to EVGA is kind of pricey. This PSU is only 6 months old. So that I don't have to play RMA tag, which case would be most likely? I'm strapped for cash at the moment so I want to reduce the amount of RMAs I have to do since shipping is expensive here. Is there any surefire way to test to see if it's really the graphics card or the PSU? I tried unplugging any devices that were connected to the 12V rail (except for my SSD and graphics card) as I do have 3 mechanical hard drives, but the voltage for that rail didn't drop (it remained at 12.4V). I'm fairly sure it isn't the drivers since I'm getting the artifacting at the BIOS too. Right now I'm back in Windows 7 but I don't know for how long until it messes up again. Any ideas?

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  • Recovering data from failed Raid configuration with 4 drives and two raid sets (Asus P6T / Intel ICH10r)

    - by user56365
    I've added the complete detailed version for my question below for those who can help, but want to quickly summarize my question first. I setup two Raid arrays using (4) WD Raptors, a striped set for the OS and 1+0 set for crucial data. After booting once out of the 50 times a cable fell out, the drive wasn't recognized in the array anymore. After trying to fix it, another drive did the same. I now have two drives remaining, luckily with the parity information. I know the striped set is gone, but I need the data on the other set. Can anyone recommend anything to recover the data, or fix the two drives that doesn't allow the raid controller to recognize the drives, even though they are listed on the utility screen as still apart of the configuration but that they are not found? More Details I recently upgraded to a ASUS P6T motherboard with an Intel ICH10R raid controller and changed my previous 4 drive raid array from strictly a Raid 1+0 set to a Raid 0 for the OS/Page/Scratch drive and a Raid 1+0 set for crucial data. I never had problems after upgrading with my configuration, even when a drive died and was replaced. I managed to rebuild the array fine. Unfortunately this time around, a cable came unattached and I booted my system up until the raid status screen with the degraded error. This shouldn't have been a problem, but after I attached the drive it was no longer recognized as a member in the array. Both drives actually show up as a non-member disk. I've spent a very, very long time online trying to find information or support and haven't had much luck. After spending time trying to scan the drive for errors, damaged partition info, etc.. another drive in the set decided it didn't want to be recognized as a part of the array. At this point, I have two out of the four drives still functioning, but the Raid 1+0 array went from degraded to failed and I must find a way to retrieve that data. I think the two drives still in the array have the parity information because they show up as OS (110GB),BACKUP(80GB) and OS:1(110GB),BACKUP(80GB) under windows data management. The other two are simply 74gb Raw unallocated Is it possible recover the data using those two drive only, and which tool would I use? Could it be a simple partition table or any other error that is repairable with hard drive utilities out there? I know the Raid 0 set is done for, but I would assume because the correct drives failed in a 1+0 config to save the data I can retrieve it some how.

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  • Linux software Raid 10 no superblock

    - by Shoshomiga
    I have a software raid 10 with 6 x 2tb hard drives (raid 1 for /boot), ubuntu 10.04 is the os. I had a raid controller failure that put 2 drives out of sync, crashed the system and initially the os didnt boot up and went into initramfs instead, saying that drives were busy but I eventually managed to bring the raid up by stopping and assembling the drives. The os booted up and said that there were filesystem errors, I chose to ignore because it would remount the fs in read-only mode if there was a problem. Everything seemed to be working fine and the 2 drives started to rebuild, I was sure that it was a sata controller failure because I had dma errors in my log files. The os crashed soon after that with ext errors. Now its not bringing up the raid, it says that there is no superblock on /dev/sda2. I tried to reassemble manually with all the device names but it still would not bring up the raid 10 complaining about the missing superblock on sda2, and sda1 was also dropped from the raid 1. When I did examine on the raid10 it says that 1 of the initially failed drives is a spare, the other is spare rebuilding and sda2 is removed. It seems that sda decided to fail right when the system was vulnerable to it because when I boot up a live cd it spews out sda unrecoverable read failures. I have been trying to fix this all week but I'm not sure where to go with this now, I ordered more hard drives because I didn't have a complete backup, but its too late for that now and the only thing I could do is mirror all the hard drives onto the new ones (I'm not sure whether sda was mirrored without errors). On the internet I read that you can recover from this by recreating the array with the same options as when it was made, however because sda is failing I cant use it and I don't want to risk using its mirror instead, so I'm waiting to get another hard drive. I'm also not sure whether to include the out of sync drives or if I can actually use those instead to recover the array. Sorry if this is a mess to read but I've been trying to fix this all day and its late at night now, any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. I also did a memtest and changed the motherboard in addition to everything else. EDIT: This is my partition layout Disk /dev/sdb: 2000.4 GB, 2000398934016 bytes 255 heads, 63 sectors/track, 243201 cylinders, total 3907029168 sectors Units = sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk identifier: 0x0009c34a Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System /dev/sdb1 * 2048 511999 254976 83 Linux /dev/sdb2 512000 3904980991 1952234496 83 Linux /dev/sdb3 3904980992 3907028991 1024000 82 Linux swap / Solaris

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  • Windows Server 2003 Standard R2 CD 1 cannot boot: freeze at No Emulation

    - by TGP1994
    Hi everyone. I've been interested in the Windows Server line of OSes, so since I apply for DreamSpark, I thought I'd go download it and try it. I just so happened to have an old desktop that I was using awhile ago for Windows XP, so I imaged the drive in preparation for it to be overwritten with the new OS. (This system has an Asus A7V8X-X motherboard, an AMD Athlon XP 2800+ processor, and 1GB of RAM.) I tried burning the first disk image on my newer desktop computer, running Windows XP, although the CD burner consistently failed at a particular track area from cd to cd, so it seemed like the burner was toast there. Fortunately, I had a laptop, so I transferred the images over to that, then burned the first disc there. First time around went great, and the burning program reported no errors. I then took the CD over to the computer that I was intending to install Server onto, set the BIOS to boot from the CD drive, then I booted it up. Like normal, after the POST, it printed "Boot from ATAPI CD-Rom: No Emulation", which I was used to seeing with bootable cds. I waited for the "Press any key to continue..." message that I had become so familiar with in windows discs, although I saw none. The computer sat there for about 5 seconds with the cd spinning, then it spun down like it was done reading it. Nothing else happened. No response from the keyboard. I tried again, same result. I then downloaded IMGBurn, and I put the burned cd into the laptop that burned it originally. I also downloaded a fresh image from the dreamspark site. I ran a verify session, and everything checked out. I later tried getting various DOS startup discs, then I tried booting the winnt binary, which supposedly initiates the installation process. Either the shells reported that not enough memory was available (since they would be running in low memory mode), or FreeDOS in particular would report Illegal instructions right away. Is the image corrupt at dreamspark, or am I doing something wrong?

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  • What are the most likely bottlenecks determining the performance of CamStudio screen recording?

    - by Steve314
    When doing screen recording, I can get a frame rate of maybe 15 frames per second for the full screen on my 1080p monitor using the XVID codec. I can increase the speed a bit by recording a region, changing screen modes, and tweaking other settings, but I'm curious what hardware upgrades might give me the biggest bang for my buck. My PC is budget, but modern... Athlon 2 X4 645 (3.1GHz, quad core, limited cache) processor. 4GB single channel DDR3 1066 RAM. ASRock motherboard with NVidia GeForce 7025/nForce 630a Chipset. ATI Radeon HD 5450 graphics card - 512MB on board, not configured to steal system RAM. I dual-boot Windows XP and Windows 7. For the moment, XP is my bigger performance concern as it's still my getting-things-done O/S as opposed to my browser-host O/S. My goal is to make a few programming-related tutorials. For a lot of that I don't need screen recording - I can make up some slides, record audio with the PC switched off, yada yada. When I do need screen recording, I'll mostly be recording Notepad++, Visual Studio or a command prompt. Occasionally, I may be recording some kind of graphics or diagram program and using my pre-Bamboo cheap Wacom tablet - I have the CS2 versions of Photoshop and Illustrator, but I'd much more likely be using Microsoft Paint. Basically, what I'll be recording won't be making huge demands on the machine - but recording a fair number of pixels (720p preferred) will be useful. What's particularly wierd - not so long ago I still had a five-year-old Pentium 4 based PC. And (with the same 1080p monitor) it could record at not far from the same frame rate. So clearly the performance issues are more subtle than just throw-money-at-it. My first guess would be that the main bottleneck is the bandwidth for transferring data to/from the graphics card. Is that likely to be correct? In support of that, see this [Radeon HD 5450 review][1] - the memory bandwidth is only 12.8 GB/s. If you can't get data out of graphics memory quickly, you can't transfer it back to the system memory quickly. Apparently, that's slower than some top-end cards in 2002.

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  • Software Raid 10 corrupted superblock after dual disk failure, how do I recover it?

    - by Shoshomiga
    I have a software raid 10 with 6 x 2tb hard drives (raid 1 for /boot), ubuntu 10.04 is the os. I had a raid controller failure that put 2 drives out of sync, crashed the system and initially the os didnt boot up and went into initramfs instead, saying that drives were busy but I eventually managed to bring the raid up by stopping and assembling the drives. The os booted up and said that there were filesystem errors, I chose to ignore because it would remount the fs in read-only mode if there was a problem. Everything seemed to be working fine and the 2 drives started to rebuild, I was sure that it was a sata controller failure because I had dma errors in my log files. The os crashed soon after that with ext errors. Now its not bringing up the raid, it says that there is no superblock on /dev/sda2, even if I assemble manually with all the device names. I also did a memtest and changed the motherboard in addition to everything else. EDIT: This is my partition layout Disk /dev/sdb: 2000.4 GB, 2000398934016 bytes 255 heads, 63 sectors/track, 243201 cylinders, total 3907029168 sectors Units = sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk identifier: 0x0009c34a Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System /dev/sdb1 * 2048 511999 254976 83 Linux /dev/sdb2 512000 3904980991 1952234496 83 Linux /dev/sdb3 3904980992 3907028991 1024000 82 Linux swap / Solaris All 6 disks have the same layout, partition #1 is for raid 1 /boot, partition #2 is for raid 10 far plan, partition #3 is swap, but sda did not have swap enabled EDIT2: This is the output of mdadm --detail /dev/md1 Layout : near=1, far=2 Chunk Size : 64k UUID : a0feff55:2018f8ff:e368bf24:bd0fce41 Events : 0.3112126 Number Major Minor RaidDevice State 0 8 34 0 spare rebuilding /dev/sdc2 1 0 0 1 removed 2 8 18 2 active sync /dev/sdb2 3 8 50 3 active sync /dev/sdd2 4 0 0 4 removed 5 8 82 5 active sync /dev/sdf2 6 8 66 - spare /dev/sde2 EDIT3: I ran ddrescue and it has copied everything from sda except a single 4096 byte sector that I suspect is the raid superblock EDIT4: Here is some more info too long to fit here lshw: http://pastebin.com/2eKrh7nF mdadm --detail /dev/sd[abcdef]1 (raid1): http://pastebin.com/cgMQWerS mdadm --detail /dev/sd[abcdef]2 (raid10): http://pastebin.com/V5dtcGPF dumpe2fs of /dev/sda2 (from the ddrescue cloned drive): http://pastebin.com/sp0GYcJG I tried to recreate md1 based on this info with the command mdadm --create /dev/md1 -v --assume-clean --level=10 --raid-devices=6 --chunk=64K --layout=f2 /dev/sda2 missing /dev/sdc2 /dev/sdd2 missing /dev/sdf2 But I can't mount it, I also tried to recreate it based on my initial mdadm --detail /dev/md1 but it still doesn't mount It also warns me that /dev/sda2 is an ext2fs file system but I guess its because of ddrescue

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  • How to remove RAID flag on unstriped drive without losing data?

    - by Alex Folland
    I have a Gigabyte Z68X-UD4-B3 motherboard. It advertises this new thing called "XHD", which is like RAID but makes a SSD and traditional-style drive work together to enable high speed with high capacity. I don't want to use this feature, and I already have Windows 7 64 installed without using this feature. When I first installed my 2 hard drives (1 SSD and 1 traditional-style drive) in my machine and booted it up for the first time, it ran a program from the mobo that asked me if I wanted to set up XHD. Thinking it would go to some config screen, I said yes. It immediately started doing something with my drives and finished. I considered that strange, but figured it wouldn't matter when I simply install Windows onto my SSD only. I now have my BIOS and Windows running in AHCI mode with no RAID arrays and separate drives. My SSD is one of those new Corsair Force GT drives which loses power every so often, causing Windows to BSOD. I've figured everything out about this problem, including installing the latest firmware from Corsair, and the only way to fix it at this point is by installing Intel Rapid Storage Technology to control AHCI instead of Windows, since the Windows AHCI driver disables the drive's power every once in a while and can't be configured not to do so. I've tried installing Intel Rapid Storage Technology. When I reboot my machine after doing so, it BSODs just after the Windows logo. I've figured out this is because my SSD and my traditional drive are flagged as RAID, as seen in the "Intel Matrix Storage Manager" program found by switching the BIOS hard drive handling to "RAID" mode. This is due to the XHD auto-config program I mentioned earlier. Normally, the BIOS is set to AHCI, and when the drives boot in AHCI mode, they work perfectly. So, I've concluded the data is stored in AHCI mode but the drives' flags are set to RAID. I've figured out that I can accomplish my objective by using the "Intel Matrix Storage Manager" program on the mobo (with "Reset disks to non-RAID"), but doing so would cause it to completely wipe the drives I select. I want to simply toggle these flags from RAID to AHCI so Intel Rapid Storage Technology doesn't fail and cause a BSOD upon booting, but without wiping the drives.

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  • New harddrives failing within weeks.

    - by Jason Kealey
    I've experienced 8 hard disk failures in 3 months and have tried many things to solve the issue permanently but I have failed. I would like to know if you have any advice for me. System was running Win XP on an Asus P5W-DH Deluxe. I have setup a RAID-1 array. I started out with 2 x 500 GB 7200RPM Western Digital drives. One died. I took it out to RMA it. On the same day, the router was fried. Assumed a power surge occurred; connected an older UPS to protect the system. Once I got my hands on an identical disk, I installed it. The RAID array was rebuilt. A few days later, the other one died. Assumed the rebuild caused it to fail. Took it out for RMA. Before the other one arrived, the remaining one died. I then discovered I could re-enable them using the Intel Matrix Storage Manager. I re-enabled both and the system seemed fine for a week, until both died again. I got two new 1.5 TB 7200RPM Seagate drives and re-installed Windows 7. Also replaced the UPS and power supply. They both died again. The voltage on the plug is stable between 120 and 122V as per the UPS. None of the other devices have had any problems (monitors, etc.). At this point, I see two options: a) electrical issue in the house that was, for some reason, not blocked by the UPS. b) something else inside the system causing surges? motherboard? onboard raid controller? Failures happen fairly quickly, between 2 and 14 days after I fix the previous issue. I just gotten a new computer (Core i7) to replace it. If it is stable, I can determine that b) was the problem. If it fries its hard drive again, I can determine that it is an electrical issue in the house. Do you have any other thoughts? Any tools I can run on the drives that failed to get more information about the original SMART event history?

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  • Windows 7 losing one of my displays after restart

    - by j_kubik
    I have an Intel DZ68BC motherboard with Intel HD graphics card using two monitors (on DVI and on HDMI » VGA). My friend asked me to test if his NVIDIA graphics card works well on my computer (at his it was doing some trouble), so I inserted it in my computer, installed the NVIDIA driver and it worked quite well. Then I removed it, uninstalled everything NVIDIA-related I could find and switched monitors back to my Intel card. Since then after every system start/restart, the system sees only monitor on HDMI » VGA connector, completely ignoring the DVI monitor. I noticed that installing the Intel video drivers causes the system to recognize the second monitor if I don't immediately reboot. After a reboot, the system recognizes only the HDMI » VGA monitor. I also tried starting in safe-mode and using DriveSweeper to remove the remains of NVIDIA drivers. While it seems that some drivers were removed, the situation didn't change. Now I am out of ideas and I really wouldn't like to reinstall the system (again...). I also tried restoring the system to the state before this whole story, but it also didn't change anything. EDIT: I am still trying to troubleshoot this problem. The only point that I could start was driver re-instalation. I traced down the part that restores right settings to a call: C:\Users\Jarek\Desktop\GFX_Win7_64_8.15.10.2696\x64\Drv64.exe -driverinf "C:\Users\Jarek\Desktop\GFX_Win7_64_8.15.10.2696\Graphics\igdlh64.inf" -flags 20 -keypath "Software\Intel\Difx64" This call fixes my displays, and as workaround, I will add it for now to my autorun. I am still looking for better solution anyway... EDIT2: Using DriverView i made a list of currently used drivers both before and after fixing my display using above command. Then i compared logs: No drivers were removed by fixing command. Drivers added by fixing command: MS Remote Access serial network driver (asyncmac.sys) security processor (spsys.sys) Drivers that changed base address (indicates driver-reload?) Canonical Display Driver (cdd.dll) Intel Graphics Kernel Mode Driver (igdkmd64.sys) Monitor Driver (monitor.sys) Added drivers seem rather unrelated to the problem to me, reloaded drivers are just a cnsequence of installing new driver file so there is not much to go here... I really cannot make heads or tails out of it...

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  • Choosing parts for a high-spec custom PC - feedback required [closed]

    - by James
    I'm looking to build a high-spec PC costing under ~£800 (bearing in mind I can get the CPU half price). This is my first time doing this so I have plenty of questions! I have been doing lots of research and this is what I have come up with: http://pcpartpicker.com/uk/p/j4lE Usage: I will be using it for Adobe CS6, rendering in 3DS Max, particle simulations in Realflow and for playing games like GTA IV (and V when it comes out), Crysis 1/2, Saints Row The Third, Deus Ex HR, etc. Questions: Can you see any obvious problem areas with the current setup? Will it be sufficient for the above usage? I won't be doing any overclocking initially. Is it worth buying the H60 liquid cooler, or will the fan that comes with the CPU be sufficient? Is water cooling generally quieter? Is the chosen motherboard good for the current components? And is it future-proof? I read that the HDD is often the bottleneck when it comes to gaming. I presume this is true to other high-end applications? If so, is my selection good? I keep changing my mind about the GPU; first the 560, now the 660. Can anyone shed some light on how to choose? I read mixed opinions about matching the GPU to the CPU. Will the 560 or the 660 be sufficient for my required usage? Atm I'm basing my choice on the PassMark benchmarks and how much they cost. The specs on the GeForce website state that the 560 and the 660 both require 450W. Is this a good figure to base the wattage of my PSU on? If so, how do you decide? Do I really need 750W? The latest GTX 690 requires 650W. Is it a good idea to buy a 750W PSU now to future-proof myself?

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  • Windows 7 reboot and freezing, possible power problems?

    - by mikelbring
    My Gateway LX Series desktop is about 6-8 months old. When I bought it, it had Windows Vista. I then put the RC version of Windows 7 on it. About 3 months after I bought it, it would randomly start to reboot, actually just shut off. I monitored the temperature levels and they seemed normal. So I installed a fresh Windows 7 Ultimate OEM 64bit. It actually got worse and would reboot more frequently. I then contacted Gateway and they said my machine was built for Windows Vista (made me chuckle), and told me to update my BIOS. So I did, and it was fixed for a good couple months. Recently, it started to do it again. Now I noticed early on it was doing it most often, if not every time when I was either watching a flash video or playing a flash game. So I decided to download the drivers again and I also downloaded my motherboard drivers. Seemed to be okay. A week later it started doing it again. And now it's doing it even more frequently. Sometimes I would turn it on, login into Windows and *BAM!* it would shut off. Now I am at the point where I can hardly get it to turn on. It would freeze at the point where it says "Starting Windows", with the Windows logo. Sometimes it would say "Checking disk for consistency" or whatever and freeze there (not shut off, just freeze). I even got the prompt to launch startup repair. But that also freezes when it says starting Windows. It does not really freeze, just never loads up. I am kind of lost as to what's going on. I have a few ideas but nothing I want to pursue (graphics card? hard drive?). Another thing I did try was to boot into a live disk of Ubuntu and try to launch every program I could and get on the internet but I never got it to reboot. So it sounds like to me it's a Windows thing, but I have no idea. I am just stuck and would like to see if any one has any ideas or could lead me in the right direction.

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  • Cannot access boot menu with compaq 8510p

    - by pinouchon
    I have a problem with my HP compaq 8510p laptop: when I start it, the fan starts and the power light is on, but the screen displays nothing. When I insert a bootable hard drive, it activates the hard drive light (meaning that the CD is recognized) but it stops after a few seconds. Same thing with any hard drive: the drive is recognized but does not boot. What I've tried so far: Changing the hard drive or booting with no hard drive (same problem) Plugging anoher display via VGA : no display on the other screen Inserting a windows-7 CD (same problem) Booting only on battery, with battery and power cable, only with power cable (same problem) So it looks like something is preventing the laptop from booting and displaying the boot menu. Do you have experienced something similar with a laptop ? What could be wrong ? The laptop is out of warranty. The system used to be windows-7 x64. Edit: I went to the help desk of my university. A guy took a look (he also tried to plug an external screen) and said that the computer is dead: on the HP laptops eventually the GPU card dies and so does the motherboard because they are linked. He saw this many times, and even if I can fix the problem, the laptop would crash again after a while. Do you have similar experience with HP laptops ? (mine is 4 years old) Edit 2: Believe it or not, my laptop is magically working again. I have no clue about what is going on. Now it is like starting and old car: when you turn it on you secretly hope it will actually start... With that said, I expect my laptop to break again in the near future (its an HP after all) and I will accept an answer or add my own accordingly. Edit 3: As expected, the laptop is down again. This time, sometimes when I power it up, it shuts down automatically after 3 seconds, sometimes not at all. In addition, when it does not shut down on its own, the power button does not work : the only way to shut it down is by unplugging the battery. As before, the screen is black, and only the power and battery lights are on. (the other ones: hard drive and wifi are off). I have tried to plug in another power plug, removing the battery and removing the hard drive without success. I might buy another laptop. I've brought the laptop to a repair shop. The problem is indeed that the graphic card is down. It will be replaced by a new one.

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  • Issue using a "used" SSD as a Windows 8.1 Boot Drive

    - by EpiGrad
    So, I'm something of a Mac person, but decided to take a stab at this whole "build yourself a PC" thing - right now, the thing is assembled, posts just fine, and can get to the BIOS. The problem is the drive I want to use - I intended to use a 80 GB Corsair SSD I've had sitting around as the boot drive, and a new Samsung SSD for games and the like. So I boot using a Windows 8.1 install USB stick, and if the Samsung drive is plugged in, it happily offers to install Windows on it. The Corsair drive though, it's flipped out - I reformatted it as a blank NTFS drive (it was HFS for Mac purposes) and the BIOS can't see it, nor can the Windows installer. What's wrong, and how do I fix it? The tools at my disposal are: The current ASUS BIOS that came with my motherboard (a Z87I-Deluxe), a Mac running the latest OS X which can also boot to Windows 7 if needed via either Parallels or Bootcamp. Update 1: Update: Based on a friend's suggestion to switch SATA ports, Windows 8.1's installer can now see the drive as Drive 0, Partition 1, a 83.8 GB "Primary" partition. But when I click it and hit "Next", I get the following error: "We couldn't create a new partition or locate an existing one. For more information, see the Setup log files" - not that it gives any clue how to access those. Update 2: Following a trail of Google suggestions, I ended up going into advanced tools and just reformatting the drive as follows: Start DISKPART. Type LIST DISK and identify your SSD disk number (from 0 to n disks). Type SELECT DISK <n> where <n> is your SSD disk number. Type CLEAN Type CREATE PARTITION PRIMARY Type ACTIVE Type FORMAT FS=NTFS QUICK Type ASSIGN Type EXIT twice (one to get out of DiskPart, the other to exit the command line tool) Per these instructions. This goes well enough, but now I can select the disk for installation, and I get a new error: "Windows 8 cannot be installed to this disk. The selected disk has an MBR partition table. On EFI systems, Windows can only be installed to GP disks." So, Googling that, I do the following: select disk 0 clean convert gpt exit ...and we might have fixed it. Windows is at least trying to install now.

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  • Possible HDD malfunction. Need help in diagnosing

    - by Protheus
    Today when using my PC as I did for almost 4 years I experienced the following: during opening new tab in Opera browser screen froze. Music (AIMP 3) continued to play for about 5 minutes and then stopped too. I tried Ctrl+Alt+Del, but win7 lock screen didn't appear. Caps\Scroll or Num locks didn't switch diodes on keyboard. I rebooted my PC and saw that BIOS suggests me to enter it's settings or load by default. I chose default. It don't see proper boot device (old faitful "insert proper boot" something). After second reboot it said that there is no ExpressGate installed (which i turned off in BIOS years ago). I went into BIOS setting to turn off ExpressGate and see configs: time was not set off, all hard drives present, temp and O.C. settings are nominal (no O.C.) I've inserted my Win7 install disk to try recovery. It did load awfully long (about few minutes) and didn't see current installation. PC was utilized in 24/7 mode for almost all these years. Hardware configuration: ASUS P5Q WS Core 2 Quad Q9300 (2.5GHz no O.C.) MSI geForce GTX 460 4x2 Gb GeIL EVO 2 (AFAIR) Seagate something 750Gb (4 years as system HDD 24/7) WD 1Tb (for random stuff, 5 y.o.) Hitachi 500Gb (for even more random stuff, 6 y.o.) NEC DVDRW (ALL DISKS ARE SATA) Cooler Master Silent Pro 700W Software: Windows 7 AND Kubuntu on the same drive with GRUB loader. Sorry I can't remember HDDs and can't see them right now, but I think their models aren't relevant anyway. My idea is that due to some system error or hard drive glitch i've wrecked my primary HDD's MBR. Nevertheless I don't exclude the possibility of other failure. May it's be that motherboard or it's SATA controller? Doubt it, because all drives are seen in BIOS and I could load from DVD. Maybe GRUB got bugged somehow, although I don't see how it's possible from Windows. But I did install KUbuntu from Windows (i wasn't myself then), maybe GRUB did write itself in some windows partition and got rewriteen in process? Right now I am at work with my flash drive with me and I need some advice how to fix MBR or to hear if it's not MBR. I'm going to buy new HDD (Hitachi 7k2000) because I think that my current HDD is compromised and it's unsafe to use it as system drive, especially 24/7.

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  • Computer randomly reboots during "intensive activity".

    - by Reznor
    My friend has been playing games on his new build for some time now. However, lately, his computer will randomly reboot out of nowhere, so far only happening in game, and presumably only to happen in game as it happens nowhere else. This can happen in game during play or even in the options. Note, it isn't a crash or blue screen. It's just a normal reboot. This started today, I believe, and has only occured in two games: Dead Space and Stalker: Shadow of Chernobyl. He has played a handful of games before these, for about a week or so, without this problem. We theorized on two possibilities: Maybe something is overheating? Maybe the power supply is inadequate? These two were quickly dismissed, as all his components were operating at normal temperatures when he got back to his desktop from the reboot, and we all know these parts don't exactly cool down quickly, especially if they get hot enough to trigger a reboot. Besides, I know at-least my motherboard reports processor overheating at start-up, and requests I press f1 to continue into boot. The PSU one was dismissed too. He has an 850w power supply on a rig that was estimated to take only 720 some watts, that's with some overcompensating to be safe. He opened up his case to make sure nothing was seated wrong or in the way. All was fine, but he did notice a sticker on his video card. It had a giant barcode on it and some numbers. Now, I'm used to seeing these stickers, they're the warranty stickers, right, and removal voids the warranty? Yeah, well, we find it odd because this sticker is slapped right over the circuits of the video card, not on a block or anything. Is this normal? Should he remove it? Right now, I am concerned with the memory. Could that be at fault? Here are his specs: Windows 7 Home Premium, 64-Bit Intel i7 950 EVGA GeForce 570 GTX 4 GB DDR3 PC10666 dual-channel Corsair RAM Corsair 850w PSU Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R Western Digital 1 TB WD1001FALS

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  • How to move partition with Users to a new SATA controller?

    - by Al Kepp
    Our current situation: X79 chipset. Windows 7 installed on SATA SSD running on Marvell controller. C:\Users contains just Public and computer-name folders, all the other users are created in E:\Users. That partition is on two HDD's running on an Intel RAID controller. (The motherboard has got two SATA/RAID onboard controllers.) The goal is: Without reinstallation, I want to move SSD to a standard SATA controller. Then I want to get rid of RAID1, and move one HDD to the same internal Intel SATA controller and the current E:\Users move to that new place. I want it to stay as E:\users, but I need to reinstall the HDD to let it work in SATA mode without RAID. So I face several problems. I am sure all are solvable with free software utilities, but I don't know how exactly to do it. I can see the particular problems: I have got all users at E:\Users. When I turn off that E:\ disk, I won't be able to login to Windows. I need at least one admin account to be placed back at C:\users. The current C: runs on standard 120 GB SSD, but it is connected to a Marvell SATA/RAID controller. I am affraid the Windows won't let me put it to Intel SATA controller due to hardware/licence check, and I won't be able to use standard W7 recovery disk either, because there probably isn't marvel SATA/RAID driver on it. I haven't tried anything yet, because I am affraid I can end up with computer not working at all. (I want to move it to a standard ICH10 Intel SATA controller to let us have no problems in future with it. I think it is not very safe when we use any nonstandard hardware to boot the computer.) I need to somehow backup current E:\ disk and restore it to a new E:. I hope this will be the easy part (as long as the admin account will reside on C:). The E: RAID array is very large, but it is almost empty (less than 100 GB of data.) So I can make the partition smaller so it can easily fit to a single SATA HDD.

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  • Windows 7 immediately disconnects a USB drive

    - by Daniel Saner
    I am having a problem with Windows 7 x64 consistently disconnecting one specific USB mass storage drive immediately after it is connected. The drive in question is a Cowon C2 digital music player which works in standard mass storage controller mode (i.e. no device-specific drivers needed/available). When I connect the player, Windows plays the "USB connect" sound and the device appears (under its correct name) in the device manager, but it never appears as a drive. The player itself displays "USB Connected" for a split-second before reporting that it has been disconnected again. Since the player, by design, reboots after it has been disconnected, Windows plays the "USB disconnect" sound before restarting the whole cycle once the player has powered back on. I am connecting the player through an Intel X79 Chipset motherboard (Gigabyte GA-X79-UD3) to Windows 7 Pro 64-bit. The player used to work fine the first few times I connected it, showing up as an external drive; it only recently stopped working. It is not a problem with the player, since it works fine when connected to another computer, even such running the exact same operating system. It is also not a problem with the USB controller, since the issue is the same on both the Intel USB 2.0 and the Fresco Logic FL1009 USB 3.0 controller ports. I have also not had the problem with any other drive so far. Among the things I have tried so far: Disabling USB legacy mode in BIOS Disabling energy-saving power down for all USB controllers in Windows' device manager Removing and reinstalling Windows' USB mass storage driver Removing and reinstalling Intel and Fresco Logic USB controller driver Restoring the player to factory defaults None of these made a difference. Again, the player used to work fine on the exact same system just days ago; I didn't install any new hardware or drivers on it since then. I would be very grateful for any hints on what else to try. Edit: Here is another new hint; I found out that when I connect the drive before booting Windows, it is available in Windows Explorer as it should, and does not automatically disconnect. If I remove and reconnect it though, the infinite connect/disconnect-loop starts anew.

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  • Create a Persistent Bootable Ubuntu USB Flash Drive

    - by Trevor Bekolay
    Don’t feel like reinstalling an antivirus program every time you boot up your Ubuntu flash drive? We’ll show you how to create a bootable Ubuntu flash drive that will remember your settings, installed programs, and more! Previously, we showed you how to create a bootable Ubuntu flash drive that would reset to its initial state every time you booted it up. This is great if you’re worried about messing something up, and want to start fresh every time you start tinkering with Ubuntu. However, if you’re using the Ubuntu flash drive to diagnose and solve problems with your PC, you might find that a lot of problems require guess-and-test cycles. It would be great if the settings you change in Ubuntu and the programs you install stay installed the next time you boot it up. Fortunately, Universal USB Installer, a great little program from Pen Drive Linux, can do just that! Note: You will need a USB drive at least 2 GB large. Make sure you back up any files on the flash drive because this process will format the drive, removing any files currently on it. Once Ubuntu has been installed on the flash drive, you can move those files back if there is enough space. Put Ubuntu on your flash drive Universal-USB-Installer.exe does not need to be installed, so just double click on it to run it wherever you downloaded it. Click Yes if you get a UAC prompt, and you will be greeted with this window. Click I Agree. In the drop-down box on the next screen, select Ubuntu 9.10 Desktop i386. Don’t worry if you normally use 64-bit operating systems – the 32-bit version of Ubuntu 9.10 will still work fine. Some useful tools do not have 64-bit versions, so unless you’re planning on switching to Ubuntu permanently, the 32-bit version will work best. If you don’t have a copy of the Ubuntu 9.10 CD downloaded, then click on the checkbox to Download the ISO. You’ll be prompted to launch a web browser; click Yes. The download should start immediately. When it’s finished, return the the Universal USB Installer and click on Browse to navigate to the ISO file you just downloaded. Click OK and the text field will be populated with the path to the ISO file. Select the drive letter that corresponds to the flash drive that you would like to use from the dropdown box. If you’ve backed up the files on this drive, we recommend checking the box to format the drive. Finally, you have to choose how much space you would like to set aside for the settings and programs that will be stored on the flash drive. Considering that Ubuntu itself only takes up around 700 MB, 1 GB should be plenty, but we’re choosing 2 GB in this example because we have lots of space on this USB drive. Click on the Create button and then make yourself a sandwich – it will take some time to install no matter how fast your PC is. Eventually it will finish. Click Close. Now you have a flash drive that will boot into a fully capable Ubuntu installation, and any changes you make will persist the next time you boot it up! Boot into Ubuntu If you’re not sure how to set your computer to boot using the USB drive, then check out the How to Boot Into Ubuntu section of our previous article on creating bootable USB drives, or refer to your motherboard’s manual. Once your computer is set to boot using the USB drive, you’ll be greeted with splash screen with some options. Press Enter to boot into Ubuntu. The first time you do this, it may take some time to boot up. Fortunately, we’ve found that the process speeds up on subsequent boots. You’ll be greeted with the Ubuntu desktop. Now, if you change settings like the desktop resolution, or install a program, those changes will be permanently stored on the USB drive! We installed avast! Antivirus, and on the next boot, found that it was still in the Accessories menu where we left it. Conclusion We think that a bootable Ubuntu USB flash drive is a great tool to have around in case your PC has problems booting otherwise. By having the changes you make persist, you can customize your Ubuntu installation to be the ultimate computer repair toolkit! Download Universal USB Installer from Pen Drive Linux Similar Articles Productive Geek Tips Create a Bootable Ubuntu USB Flash Drive the Easy WayCreate a Bootable Ubuntu 9.10 USB Flash DriveReset Your Ubuntu Password Easily from the Live CDHow-To Geek on Lifehacker: Control Your Computer with Shortcuts & Speed Up Vista SetupHow To Setup a USB Flash Drive to Install Windows 7 TouchFreeze Alternative in AutoHotkey The Icy Undertow Desktop Windows Home Server – Backup to LAN The Clear & Clean Desktop Use This Bookmarklet to Easily Get Albums Use AutoHotkey to Assign a Hotkey to a Specific Window Latest Software Reviews Tinyhacker Random Tips DVDFab 6 Revo Uninstaller Pro Registry Mechanic 9 for Windows PC Tools Internet Security Suite 2010 Test Drive Windows 7 Online Download Wallpapers From National Geographic Site Spyware Blaster v4.3 Yes, it’s Patch Tuesday Generate Stunning Tag Clouds With Tagxedo Install, Remove and HIDE Fonts in Windows 7

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