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• Why Is Hibernation Still Used?

  - by Jason Fitzpatrick

  With the increased prevalence of fast solid-state hard drives, why do we still have system hibernation? Today’s Question & Answer session comes to us courtesy of SuperUser—a subdivision of Stack Exchange, a community-driven grouping of Q&A web sites. The Question SuperUser reader Moses wants to know why he should use hibernate on a desktop machine: I’ve never quite understood the original purpose of the Hibernation power state in Windows. I understand how it works, what processes take place, and what happens when you boot back up from Hibernate, but I’ve never truly understood why it’s used. With today’s technology, most notably with SSDs, RAM and CPUs becoming faster and faster, a cold boot on a clean/efficient Windows installation can be pretty fast (for some people, mere seconds from pushing the power button). Standby is even faster, sometimes instantaneous. Even SATA drives from 5-6 years ago can accomplish these fast boot times. Hibernation seems pointless to me [on desktop computers] when modern technology is considered, but perhaps there are applications that I’m not considering. What was the original purpose behind hibernation, and why do people still use it? Quite a few people use hibernate, so what is Moses missing in the big picture? The Answer SuperUser contributor Vignesh4304 writes: Normally hibernate mode saves your computer’s memory, this includes for example open documents and running applications, to your hard disk and shuts down the computer, it uses zero power. Once the computer is powered back on, it will resume everything where you left off. You can use this mode if you won’t be using the laptop/desktop for an extended period of time, and you don’t want to close your documents. Simple Usage And Purpose: Save electric power and resuming of documents. In simple terms this comment serves nice e.g (i.e. you will sleep but your memories are still present). Why it’s used: Let me describe one sample scenario. Imagine your battery is low on power in your laptop, and you are working on important projects on your machine. You can switch to hibernate mode – it will result your documents being saved, and when you power on, the actual state of application gets restored. Its main usage is like an emergency shutdown with an auto-resume of your documents. MagicAndre1981 highlights the reason we use hibernate everyday: Because it saves the status of all running programs. I leave all my programs open and can resume working the next day very easily. Doing a real boot would require to start all programs again, load all the same files into those programs, get to the same place that I was at before, and put all my windows in exactly the same place. Hibernating saves a lot of work pulling these things back up again. It’s not unusual to find computers around the office here that have been hibernated day in and day out for months without an actual full system shutdown and restart. It’s enormously convenient to freeze your work space at the exact moment you stopped working and to turn right around and resume there the next morning. Have something to add to the explanation? Sound off in the the comments. Want to read more answers from other tech-savvy Stack Exchange users? Check out the full discussion thread here.     

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• How Can I Safely Destroy Sensitive Data CDs/DVDs?

  - by Jason Fitzpatrick

  You have a pile of DVDs with sensitive information on them and you need to safely and effectively dispose of them so no data recovery is possible. What’s the most safe and efficient way to get the job done? Today’s Question & Answer session comes to us courtesy of SuperUser—a subdivision of Stack Exchange, a community-driven grouping of Q&A web sites. The Question SuperUser reader HaLaBi wants to know how he can safely destroy CDs and DVDs with personal data on them: I have old CDs/DVDs which have some backups, these backups have some work and personal files. I always had problems when I needed to physically destroy them to make sure no one will reuse them. Breaking them is dangerous, pieces could fly fast and may cause harm. Scratching them badly is what I always do but it takes long time and I managed to read some of the data in the scratched CDs/DVDs. What’s the way to physically destroy a CD/DVD safely? How should he approach the problem? The Answer SuperUser contributor Journeyman Geek offers a practical solution coupled with a slightly mad-scientist solution: The proper way is to get yourself a shredder that also handles cds – look online for cd shredders. This is the right option if you end up doing this routinely. I don’t do this very often – For small scale destruction I favour a pair of tin snips – they have enough force to cut through a cd, yet are blunt enough to cause small cracks along the sheer line. Kitchen shears with one serrated side work well too. You want to damage the data layer along with shearing along the plastic, and these work magnificently. Do it in a bag, cause this generates sparkly bits. There’s also the fun, and probably dangerous way – find yourself an old microwave, and microwave them. I would suggest doing this in a well ventilated area of course, and not using your mother’s good microwave. There’s a lot of videos of this on YouTube – such as this (who’s done this in a kitchen… and using his mom’s microwave). This results in a very much destroyed cd in every respect. If I was an evil hacker mastermind, this is what I’d do. The other options are better for the rest of us. Another contributor, Keltari, notes that the only safe (and DoD approved) way to dispose of data is total destruction: The answer by Journeyman Geek is good enough for almost everything. But oddly, that common phrase “Good enough for government work” does not apply – depending on which part of the government. It is technically possible to recover data from shredded/broken/etc CDs and DVDs. If you have a microscope handy, put the disc in it and you can see the pits. The disc can be reassembled and the data can be reconstructed — minus the data that was physically destroyed. So why not just pulverize the disc into dust? Or burn it to a crisp? While technically, that would completely eliminate the data, it leaves no record of the disc having existed. And in some places, like DoD and other secure facilities, the data needs to be destroyed, but the disc needs to exist. If there is a security audit, the disc can be pulled to show it has been destroyed. So how can a disc exist, yet be destroyed? Well, the most common method is grinding the disc down to destroy the data, yet keep the label surface of the disc intact. Basically, it’s no different than using sandpaper on the writable side, till the data is gone. Have something to add to the explanation? Sound off in the the comments. Want to read more answers from other tech-savvy Stack Exchange users? Check out the full discussion thread here.     

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• What features of old computers helped you learn to be a better programmer?

  - by David Cary

  What features of old computers helped you learn to be a better programmer -- but don't seem to be available on new computers? I imagine that, while educational, you are really glad some features are gone, such as programs ran so slowly that I could almost see each pixel being plotted, so I got a visceral feel for the effect of various optimizations. I imagine other features you may be a little nostalgic for, such as I could turn on the computer, and write a short program that printed "Hello, World" on the printer, before ever "booting" a "disk". (I'm hoping that this is constructive enough to avoid the fate of the " What have we lost from computers 20 years ago ?" question).

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• Why is wireless slow with Atheros AR9285?

  - by Luke

  I know there are many posts like this, however none of the fixes I have found have worked. I had the issue on 11.04, and after having no luck fixing it decided to try 12.04 however this has not fixed the problem. I'm using a Lenovo IdeaPad, the network card is a Atheros Communications AR9285. edit add outputs: sudo iwconfig lo no wireless extensions. wlan0 IEEE 802.11bgn ESSID:"NETGEAR-PLOW" Mode:Managed Frequency:2.437 GHz Access Point: E0:91:F5:7D:1B:BA Bit Rate=65 Mb/s Tx-Power=15 dBm Retry long limit:7 RTS thr:off Fragment thr:off Encryption key:off Power Management:on Link Quality=66/70 Signal level=-44 dBm Rx invalid nwid:0 Rx invalid crypt:0 Rx invalid frag:0 Tx excessive retries:77 Invalid misc:63 Missed beacon:0 eth0 no wireless extensions. lspci -nnk | grep -iA2 net 06:00.0 Network controller [0280]: Atheros Communications Inc. AR9285 Wireless Network Adapter (PCI-Express) [168c:002b] (rev 01) Subsystem: Lenovo Device [17aa:30a1] Kernel driver in use: ath9k -- 07:00.0 Ethernet controller [0200]: Realtek Semiconductor Co., Ltd. RTL8101E/RTL8102E PCI Express Fast Ethernet controller [10ec:8136] (rev 02) Subsystem: Lenovo Device [17aa:392e] Kernel driver in use: r8169 Thanks

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• Mouse wheel speed, a permanent solution?

  - by Logan

  I would like to address an issue that has been around for a while now. The wireless mouse's wheel speed is abnormally fast on Ubuntu (as well as Mac Osx, as I have read) and the way to fix this temporarily is to unplug and plug the wireless adapter. A solution for this have been asked for in various forum topics on Ubuntu forums and also askubuntu. However the best solution for this is to re-plug the wireless adapter for the mouse. This fixes the mouse wheel speed until the next reboot. My question is, what can be done to make this permanent? Can a shell script be written, or firstly what can be causing this? If you could give me some ideas on why this problem is occurring I would happily write a shell script for it... (I am thinking if this is fixed by a simple re-plug of the adapter, maybe a shell script to disable device and re-enable it or something like that... could do the trick) I appreciate any discussions and ideas on the subjects. Here are some already discussed topics on the same subject that I've researched: Mouse wheel jumpy on scrolling Mouse wheel scrolling too fast There's a lot more than that on the net, all of them ends with re-plug solution.

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• Sluggish/unresponsive trackpad on pre-unibody MacBook Pro

  - by Art

  I am running Ubuntu Natty Narwhal on pre-unibody MacBook Pro (2007 I believe). There seems to be a problem with trackpad - it barely works, in order to move cursor you have to move your finger a lot, and it terminates the 'gestures' abruptly - say you are moving the cursor with your finger and out of the blue it just stops, although the finger is still in contact with the surface of the trackpad. Those issues seem to dissapear as soon as I boot Mac OS X, so I suspect it is something Ubuntu-specific. Also, if I try to move the cursor with not just fingertip but increase the contact area, it seems to work just fine, although it is hardly convenient.

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• What camera to choose for using with JMF (Java Media Framework)

  - by Leron

  For the past 2-3 weeks I've been searching for different ways to implement custom video streaming and in more general video capturing and manipulating, going through DVR-cards, Video Capture Cards and stuff like that. Somehow JMF was able to stay out of my sight for all this time, but since I find out about it I'm more and more sure that this is a comfortable level for me to start playing around with video and stuff. One major topic that occurs to me while searching for more info was the presence of many posts where people were complaining about the fact that any particular camera ( most of the time I think they mean web cameras) doesn't work with JMF. Even though there are a lot of different cameras (not necessarily a web cam) that are not that expensive I want to play it safe and buy one that is proven to work well with the JMF. Also due to lack of experience maybe this is irrelevant but since I'll buy the camera mostly for learning and experimenting I want to have the maximum freedom possible to mess with different features, options and so on.

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• SPARC Go To Market Webinar am 21. Juni

  - by A&C Redaktion

  Hiermit möchten wir Sie herzlich zum weltweiten SPARC Go To Market Webinar am 21. Juni, 17:00 Uhr CET einladen. Unser Sprecher, Bud Koch, Senior Principal Product Marketing Director, wird Ihnen in diesem Online-Event einen Überblick über das SPARC / T4 Marketing geben. Er stellt dabei die aktuelle Materialien vor und zeigt Ihnen, was im Fiskaljahr 2013 geplant ist. So bekommen Sie einen Einblick und die richtige Vertriebsunterstützung. Weitere Informationen zum Webinar finden Sie hier. Wir bitten Sie, sich schon ein paar Minuten vorher einzuwählen, damit das Webinar pünktlich beginnen kann. Sollten Sie nicht live dabei sein können, wird es im Anschluss eine Aufzeichnung geben, die wir hier im Blog teilen werden.

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• Is it possible to power up ports on a USB hub from Ubuntu?

  - by James Henstridge

  I have a D-Link DUB-H7 powered USB 2.0 hub connected to my computer. Occasionally when I reboot the system, I've noticed that some of the ports on the hub get powered down: the green light next to the port is turned off, and the device attached to that port is not visible to lsusb or similar commands. Devices attached to the other ports on the hub function as normal. I am able to restore the ports by disconnecting power to the hub temporarily (from the computer, AC adapter and any devices that might provide any power such as my phone), but this is a bit of a hassle. It seems like something that might be related to power management, so is there some way you can tell the USB hub to power up through software?

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• Secure Your Wireless Router: 8 Things You Can Do Right Now

  - by Chris Hoffman

  A security researcher recently discovered a backdoor in many D-Link routers, allowing anyone to access the router without knowing the username or password. This isn’t the first router security issue and won’t be the last. To protect yourself, you should ensure that your router is configured securely. This is about more than just enabling Wi-Fi encryption and not hosting an open Wi-Fi network. Disable Remote Access Routers offer a web interface, allowing you to configure them through a browser. The router runs a web server and makes this web page available when you’re on the router’s local network. However, most routers offer a “remote access” feature that allows you to access this web interface from anywhere in the world. Even if you set a username and password, if you have a D-Link router affected by this vulnerability, anyone would be able to log in without any credentials. If you have remote access disabled, you’d be safe from people remotely accessing your router and tampering with it. To do this, open your router’s web interface and look for the “Remote Access,” “Remote Administration,” or “Remote Management” feature. Ensure it’s disabled — it should be disabled by default on most routers, but it’s good to check. Update the Firmware Like our operating systems, web browsers, and every other piece of software we use, router software isn’t perfect. The router’s firmware — essentially the software running on the router — may have security flaws. Router manufacturers may release firmware updates that fix such security holes, although they quickly discontinue support for most routers and move on to the next models. Unfortunately, most routers don’t have an auto-update feature like Windows and our web browsers do — you have to check your router manufacturer’s website for a firmware update and install it manually via the router’s web interface. Check to be sure your router has the latest available firmware installed. Change Default Login Credentials Many routers have default login credentials that are fairly obvious, such as the password “admin”. If someone gained access to your router’s web interface through some sort of vulnerability or just by logging onto your Wi-Fi network, it would be easy to log in and tamper with the router’s settings. To avoid this, change the router’s password to a non-default password that an attacker couldn’t easily guess. Some routers even allow you to change the username you use to log into your router. Lock Down Wi-Fi Access If someone gains access to your Wi-Fi network, they could attempt to tamper with your router — or just do other bad things like snoop on your local file shares or use your connection to downloaded copyrighted content and get you in trouble. Running an open Wi-Fi network can be dangerous. To prevent this, ensure your router’s Wi-Fi is secure. This is pretty simple: Set it to use WPA2 encryption and use a reasonably secure passphrase. Don’t use the weaker WEP encryption or set an obvious passphrase like “password”. Disable UPnP A variety of UPnP flaws have been found in consumer routers. Tens of millions of consumer routers respond to UPnP requests from the Internet, allowing attackers on the Internet to remotely configure your router. Flash applets in your browser could use UPnP to open ports, making your computer more vulnerable. UPnP is fairly insecure for a variety of reasons. To avoid UPnP-based problems, disable UPnP on your router via its web interface. If you use software that needs ports forwarded — such as a BitTorrent client, game server, or communications program — you’ll have to forward ports on your router without relying on UPnP. Log Out of the Router’s Web Interface When You’re Done Configuring It Cross site scripting (XSS) flaws have been found in some routers. A router with such an XSS flaw could be controlled by a malicious web page, allowing the web page to configure settings while you’re logged in. If your router is using its default username and password, it would be easy for the malicious web page to gain access. Even if you changed your router’s password, it would be theoretically possible for a website to use your logged-in session to access your router and modify its settings. To prevent this, just log out of your router when you’re done configuring it — if you can’t do that, you may want to clear your browser cookies. This isn’t something to be too paranoid about, but logging out of your router when you’re done using it is a quick and easy thing to do. Change the Router’s Local IP Address If you’re really paranoid, you may be able to change your router’s local IP address. For example, if its default address is 192.168.0.1, you could change it to 192.168.0.150. If the router itself were vulnerable and some sort of malicious script in your web browser attempted to exploit a cross site scripting vulnerability, accessing known-vulnerable routers at their local IP address and tampering with them, the attack would fail. This step isn’t completely necessary, especially since it wouldn’t protect against local attackers — if someone were on your network or software was running on your PC, they’d be able to determine your router’s IP address and connect to it. Install Third-Party Firmwares If you’re really worried about security, you could also install a third-party firmware such as DD-WRT or OpenWRT. You won’t find obscure back doors added by the router’s manufacturer in these alternative firmwares. Consumer routers are shaping up to be a perfect storm of security problems — they’re not automatically updated with new security patches, they’re connected directly to the Internet, manufacturers quickly stop supporting them, and many consumer routers seem to be full of bad code that leads to UPnP exploits and easy-to-exploit backdoors. It’s smart to take some basic precautions. Image Credit: Nuscreen on Flickr     

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• EBS with RAID0 (striping) and restoring snapshots

  - by grourk

  We have a MySQL database on EC2 and are looking at the disk IO performance there. Currently we have a single EBS volume with XFS and take snapshots for backup. It seems that a lot of people have seen significant performance gains by striping across multiple EBS volumes with software RAID. If this is done, how does one take snapshots and ensure the consistency of the file system? It seems to me that restoring the file system from multiple snapshots could be tricky.

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• Thinkpad brightness steps error using FN+Home/End

  - by petermolnar

  I've met the following problem: normally my T400 (Lenovo Thinkpad) has 16 steps of brightness, and Windows utilizes it correctly. After a fresh install & minor tweaks Mint 12 (which is based on 11.10 Ubuntu) I only had 6 steps which was way to few. Listing /sys/class/backlight showed 3 entried. I removed the acpi-tools package, one of the disapperared - and I now have 10 steps! Therefore I think if I can reduce the entries to 1 I'm going to have 16 steps, since the stepping will be 1 instead of 2 (or 3). /sys/class/backlight/ intel_backlight -> ../../devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:02.0/drm/card0/card0-LVDS-1/intel_backlight thinkpad_screen -> ../../devices/virtual/backlight/thinkpad_screen The problem is that I'm unable to trace back what are the configs / daemons / kernel options triggers these two. More strangely, I discovered a strange behaviour. I monitored watch -n1 "cat /sys/class/backlight/thinkpad_screen/actual_brightness" and watch -n1 "cat /sys/class/backlight/intel_backlight/actual_brightness" while changing the brightness with FN+home/end combinations from max to min. The outcome is the following: brighness intel thinkpad --------- ----- -------- MAX 2408475 7 | 1955115 5 | 1435640 3 | 1246740 1 | 1086175 0 | 1010615 6 | 859495 4 | 689485 2 v 481695 0 MIN 217235 0 brighness intel thinkpad --------- ----- -------- MIN 217235 0 | 481695 2 | 689485 4 | 859495 6 | 1010615 7 | 1086175 1 | 1246740 3 | 1435640 5 v 1955115 7 MAX 2408475 0 When stepping from MIN to MAX, there's no difference between the last 2 steps. Also, the OSD icon (Cinnamon desktop, default theme) goes from full to min in 4 steps and from full to min once again in 4 steps. So... it seems that the intel entry is working correctly, showing correct values. The thinkpad entry however twists the things and even showing incorrect values. Does anyone have any idea how to get rid of the thinkpad entry? System data: Linux Mint 12 3.0.0-16 kernel Lenovo ThinkPad T400 Cinnamon 1.4 desktop For any additional info, please tell me what do you need. EDIT I'm sorry, I forgot to mention, I added acpi_backlight=vendor to GRUB cmdline as well, this is the result of the semi-better working than the default.

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• Is there a way to disable a particular pci port

  - by mxdog

  I have a MB with 2 nics on it. a switch burned up and took out one of them. there is no way to turn them off individually in the bios. is there a way to turn off one of the ports. unmap it,unbind it, power it down so the system doesnt see it at after boot. they are mapped as 0000:02.08.0 and 0000:02.08.1 I want to turn the second one off somehow. Since they both use the same driver, blacklisting the module will take out both of them. Normally I would just live with it but it seems there should be a way to do that like in windows (gasp)--just disable it. I Actually have the exact same problem on another comp running XCP so this will be a 2fer if it gets figured out. the OS is 12.4 lts server with xen on it. THX

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• Current state of the art for holographic displays?

  - by kamziro

  In another thread I was asking about independent arcade system development, and partly it was because I'm interested in using available 3D holographic technology for the displays. I saw one which involved a rotating mirror at very high speeds, so that's probably not going to be too feasible (I'd hate to think of what happens when something goes wrong). However, I looked around for videos from trade shows, and I found this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vl0EIngM-RA But information is scarce, and I'm led to believe it's just using mirrors and reflections, and does not convey true 3D depth like the one using rotating mirrors at high speed: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKCUGQ-uo8c So yeah, does anyone know if there's something better available today?

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• 12.04 on Pentium Dual Core with 1GB or ram running slow

  - by Alex

  hey i have a Lenovo Thinkpad Laptop with Ubuntu 12.04 installed. It runs slow. I tried "System profiler and Benchmark" to test the computer. but the application quits and closes after the first few benchmark test. before it even gets to the other tests. So i tried "Hardinfo" that installed on the Puppy Linux live cd. that did the same thing (the apps look just a like). the memory usage isnt the problem on this pc. its the cpu processes. just running the "system profiler" app that comes with ubuntu uses about 34% on each core, default with nothing running its 5-10% on each core. i cant really find what the deal is other than that ubuntu is a cpu hog. so im testing unity2D at the moment to see how it goes. if you have any other suggestions, feel free to answer this question. thanks

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• HP ENVY 4-Sleekbook or Samsung Series 5 NP530U3B Ultrabook?

  - by Sam

  I am a high school student and I need a laptop within the budget of 650$. I usually have a browser, microsoft office, music, and possibly a movie or something open at once. Will the HP ENVY 4's Intel Core i3 processor be enough to handle this or would I have to get the Samsung series 5 13 inch ultrabook to get this job done? I really like the look of the HP ENVY 4, but I also want a laptop that will be quick enough to handle my needs. PLEASE HELP!

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• Samsung 700Z broken by Precise install

  - by Eric

  I tried to install Precise from DVD media and got to the point where the Ubuntu logo is on screen indicating the the installer is loading. At that point the screen went dark. After some time I rebooted the machine. To my dismay the machine would no longer start (Powers on but but no bios start up screen, I can hear initial hard drive spin which soon dies). This is a new machine (less than 2 months) and I have had no previous indications of defects before this incident. In other words, I am convinced the Ubuntu install had something to do with the failure of the machine. Has anyone else had this problem with this model machine? Is this known to happen with precise or other versions of Ubuntu?

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• Cannot Connect Modem ( /dev/ttySL0 ) Using gnome-ppp - Dial-Up Connection

  - by nicorellius

  I'm trying to connect my Toshiba Satellite running Ubuntu 10.04 to my Eris running Android 2.1 through a Bluetooth connection and establish a dial-up connection (DUN) with the modem. I can connect my phone to my laptop, and I can detect my modem (after installing drivers), which is located at /dev/ttySL0. But when I launch gnome-ppp and enter my phone number (123 for PDA-Net) I get a dialog that says "Connecting... Sending Password" with Log and Cancel buttons. The log shows this: --> WvDial: Internet dialer version 1.60 --> Cannot get information for serial port. --> Initializing modem. --> Sending: ATZ ATZ OK --> Sending: ATQ0 V1 E1 S0=0 &C1 &D2 +FCLASS=0 ATQ0 V1 E1 S0=0 &C1 &D2 +FCLASS=0 OK --> Modem initialized. --> Please enter password (or empty password to stop): --> Configuration does not specify a valid login name. The PDA-Net DUN protocol is running and shows no error. Any ideas? Any help is much appreciated.

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• Bluetooth pairing works in 10.10 but not in 11.04

  - by Nathan Haines

  My laptop, a Compaq Presario V2000, has a built-in Bluetooth module that has worked well since at least Ubuntu 8.04 LTS. I use it to pair with headphones and a mouse. These both worked great in Ubuntu 10.10 (and still do with a live CD) but I cannot pair to any Bluetooth device in Ubuntu 11.04, even from a live CD. I can see the Bluetooth module in lspci and when I try to set up a new device from the Bluetooth indicator my computer detects all Bluetooth devices around me but pairing always fails. At the moment I'm most concerned with getting my Microsoft Wireless Notebook Presenter Mouse 8000 paired. Relevant output of lspci: Bus 003 Device 002: ID 03f0:011d Hewlett-Packard Integrated Bluetooth Module

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• Adding extra storage space to Dell PowerEdge 2900 SQL server

  - by Owl

  Can a 300GB 15K RPM SAS (Serial Attached SCSI) Hard Drive work/be configured if i put it in an extra slot on a server that uses a DELL PERC 6/i Integrated RAID Controller?

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• hp XW8000 work station power supply

  - by user281745

  My power supply went up in the XW8000 and I bought a new corsair cx500. I installed it but when I hook it up and I turn the computer on I get a beeping noise from the computer. I looked at the old power supply and the new power supply. The only difference is that the new power supply has 500 watts and the old one is 450 watts and the old PSU has a brown wire and the new power supply has 2 orange wires at the end. I found out that it is a sense wire that is in a different location so I was wondering how do I fix this problem.

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• Webcam doesn't work in Ubuntu 12.10

  - by Kzhi

  I have Gembird cam68ut. On my Ubuntu 12.10 it shows black screen in cheese and guvcview. I tested it in win7, it works fine. Here what I found: It is a uvc compliant camera, I checked on the site: 18ec:3299 USB 2.0 PC Camera (model number QC3231) ArkMicro This webcam is report by lsusb: Bus 001 Device 004: ID 18ec:3299 Arkmicro Technologies Inc. Here is the output of dmesg | tail: uvcvideo: Found UVC 1.00 device USB2.0 PC CAMERA (18ec:3299) uvcvideo: UVC non compliance - GET_DEF(PROBE) not supported. Enabling workaround. input: USB2.0 PC CAMERA as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:1a.0/usb1/1-1/1-1.5/1-1.5:1.0/input/input17 usbcore: registered new interface driver uvcvideo USB Video Class driver (1.1.1) When I run cheese (or guvcview), here what I get in terminal: libv4l2: error turning on stream: No space left on device (cheese:11797): cheese-WARNING **: Internal data flow error. I tried it on different usb slots with the same results The Webcam's microphone works, I can record audio with it Guys, any thoughts on what can be done to make it work?

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• How to get a Toshiba L505 to boot USB or CD

  - by ShroudedCloud

  OK, have a Toshiba L505 (not sure of the extended model number) that got a virus on Windows and will no longer will boot into that, so I'm trying to revive it with Ubuntu. Problem is, when I tell it to boot into a USB image of 12.04 32- or 64-bit, 13.04 64-bit, or elementary Luna 32-bit, it gives me some screen with a copyright from 2000 for Intel, invariably spits out a "media not recognized" type of error and then says PXE-ROM exiting. Well, that's annoying. So I went in with a CD (12.04 x86_64 having tried 32-bit in the past as well). Boot menu, select, starts running. Seeing the loading screen for Ubuntu, going well... until it's not. Again, invariably, it fails. The CD drive will cease spinning at around the same time each time and then the laptop will stop doing everything altogether (at least, everything spins down and it goes quiet). As far as I can tell, it's not to do with what function is being loaded from the CD at the time (because that bit is variable). I'd love to be able to boot from USB (since it will be all but required going forward), but getting the CD to work would be wondrous too. Anyone have any ideas of where I can go from here to try to fix this? My friends and I have turned up nothing.

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• When will we get Sandy Bridge support?

  - by Gu3miles

  I'd like to build a machine running Ubuntu and using the new Sandy bridge (i5 2500 specifically) intel cpu's. I heard that 10.10 doesn't have the best support (or simply won't work) with the new cpus and 1155 mobos. I'm assuming that 11.04 will have support but do the alpha's have it already? Or will I have to wait? Also, I plan to use the onboard Intel graphics (H67 mobo), will there be support for this or will I still need to use a graphic's card?

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• How do I install my Wacom Intuos 2 serial tablet?

  - by Gizmoatwork

  I've seen many topics on the subjects but they are too complicated for me. I'm not confident in compiling stuff. Is there some headache-free way to make it work under Ubuntu? Where do I start? Edit : It doesn't seem to work. looking at device '/devices/pnp0/00:08/tty/ttyS0': KERNEL=="ttyS0" SUBSYSTEM=="tty" DRIVER=="" looking at parent device '/devices/pnp0/00:08': KERNELS=="00:08" SUBSYSTEMS=="pnp" DRIVERS=="serial" ATTRS{id}=="PNP0501" looking at parent device '/devices/pnp0': KERNELS=="pnp0" SUBSYSTEMS=="" DRIVERS=="" ACTION=="add|change", SUBSYSTEMS=="pnp", ATTRS{id}=="PNP0501", ENV{ID_INPUT}="1", ENV{ID_INPUT_TABLET}="1" ATTRS{id}==PNP0501, : commande introuvable I am a bit confused. Am I right to type it in the terminal?

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