Search Results

Search found 7931 results on 318 pages for 'hardware rec'.

Page 63/318 | < Previous Page | 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70  | Next Page >

  • Socket 775 - 1156 cooler compatibility

    - by Elephantik
    I bought a new mobo with Socket 1156 (Asus P7P55D PRO). Previously I had a mobo with Socket 775 and CPU cooler AC Freezer 7 Pro. However, I'm not able to fit the cooler to the new mobo eventhough the mounting holes look to be at the same positions. I've seen a few coolers which support both sockets. Are these platforms "cooler mounting" compatible, or the cooler really have to support both sockets explicitely?

    Read the article

  • Router recommendation to virtualize 800 IPs

    - by delerious010
    I've recently been looking at getting some new load balancers for our environment as we are expecting to double our client base in the next 12 months. Currently we have 400 public IPS serving 800 clusters ( 2 clusters / IP due to ports ) on Coyote Point Balancers, and distributing connections to 3 web servers serving about 6GBytes outgoing, 2Gbytes in per day. If we double, this would be about 800 IPs, possibly 1600 clusters, and about 6 servers per cluster ( for a total of 9600 so called "real servers" using Barracuda's lingo ). Due to the amount of clusters, most solutions I've looked at ( Coyote, Barracuda, Loadbalancer.org ) seem to be unsure whether they'll be able to handle our planned growth, mostly due to health checks performed on the servers ... which makes total sense when you think of it. So the fine folk at loadbalancer.org recommended that we may be better off offload the 400-800 public IPs, which we require for SSL eCommerce solutions, over to a forward facing router. From that point on, the router could do some mangling to route EXT_IP:443 to INT_IP:INT_PORT which would then allow us to reduce the Load Balancer configuration to 1 or 2 clusters, thus resolving the health check problem. Does this idea make sense to yall ? Or would you have other recommendations to make ? Secondly, what router would you recommend for such an undertaking ? I'd be looking at something that has some form of failover mechanism built in. On a totally unrelated note, I've got to admit that I'm extremely pleased with the responses I got from loadbalancer.org. Their responses to my inquiries were surprisingly helpful ( i.e. I didn't feel as if I was taking to a sales guy trying to push something ). ( No I don't work for them, and sadly nor are they sending me free gear ).

    Read the article

  • How do you test if a PCI slot is working - motherboard diagnostic software?

    - by Adam
    I suspect that my motherboard is bad, and that my PCI-E slot is not working. I have a Gigabyte motherboard that had a Hauppage 2250 working fine in the PCI-E slot for many months. However - recently - would not get TV channels that I used to get --- until finally Media center cant detect any channels at all. Got a new tuner card (ATI 350 card) - cant detect any channels. The cable signal is good - I have it connected directly to a TV - all channels come in clear. SO that is why I suspect a motherboard problem. Are there any motherboard diagnostic scanner utilities that can verify I need a new motherboard

    Read the article

  • Simultaneous read/write to RAID array slows server to a crawl

    - by Jeff Leyser
    Fairly beefy NFS/SMB server (32GB RAM, 2 Xeon quad cores) with LSI MegaRAID 8888ELP controlling 12 drives configured into 3 different arrays. 5 2TB drives are grouped into a RAID 6 array. As expected, write performance to the array is slow. However, sustained, simultaneous read/write to the array (wether through NFS or done locally) seems to practically block any other access to anything else on the controller. For example, if I do: cp /home/joe/BigFile /home/joe/BigFileCopy where BigFile is 20G, then even a simple ls /home/jane will take many 10s of seconds to complete. In addition, an ls /backup will also take many tens of seconds, even though /backup is a different array on the same controller. As soon as the cp is done, everything is back to normal. cp /home/joe/BigFile /backup/BigFile does not exhibit this behavior. It's only when doing read/write to the same array.

    Read the article

  • How to test video card memory

    - by oki
    I want to test the memory of my video card because lastly there are vertical lines on my screen. I do some basic troubleshoot and it seems that the problem is in video card. Therefore, I want to validate the error at the video card by using a video card memory test program. I find one that is used for nvidia card with CUDA support, but my card is Nvidia GeForce 7600 without CUDA support.

    Read the article

  • Crashes and freezes after fixing "BOOTMGR is missing" error

    - by Greg-J
    I came back from a 3-day weekend to a computer that was off. I leave my PC on 24/7, so this was odd. Turn it on to get the dreaded "BOOTMGR is missing" screen. Two attempts at Windows Recovery and it booted into Windows fine. After an hour or so, I get a frozen Chrome and my start bar disappears. Ctrl+Alt+Del brings up an error box telling me that Ctrl+Alt+Del failed to work properly. Clicking on any open application triggers an error (I can't recall the error now, but it essentially just said that the application couldn't be found running or something along those lines). I restart, and again, the same thing happens after a while of use. I turn it on, install the 47 updates I have or so, and then restart it. After a while of use (under an hour), it just freezes completely. My thoughts are: SSDs, RAM or PS. My system specs below: (RAID0) 2 x Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CML16GX3M4A1600C9 CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active 1 x ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z/GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard 1 x Hitachi GST Deskstar 7K1000.C 0F10383 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive 1 x Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 1 x SAPPHIRE 21197-00-40G Radeon HD 7970 3GB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card 1 x Noctua NH-D14 120mm & 140mm SSO CPU Cooler This is all crammed in a pretty small case (NZXT Vulcan) and has been running perfectly problem-free since January. The only thing out of the ordinary is that there is a fan in the case that is now making noise whereas the case has previously been completely silent. I have no reason to believe this is anything more then correlation, but felt it is worth mentioning. I believe it MAY be the SSDs simply because of the BOOTMGR error, but not sure how to test that theory. My belief that it may be the RAM is simply from experience with frozen machines. I haven't had the time to memtest it, but will. The PS being the culprit is something I've picked up by reading similar threads on various forums, and it seems plausible. I am unsure how to test this though. ANY insight whatsover would be greatly appreciated!

    Read the article

  • Mac OS X - configuring ntpd server with on LAN with D-Link DIR-655

    - by Mark C
    Hey all, This question is pretty specific, but I hope someone will have seen this error elsewhere. I a configuring a machine running OS X 10.5.8 to be an NTP server for machines connected to a LAN that is not connected to the Internet. I am not too worried about knowing the "right" time on all the machines, but rather worried about making sure everyone has the same notion of time. I configured the NTP daemon on Mac by turning on the Set date and time automatically in System Preferences, using the server's clock, 127.127.1.0 as the reference clock. I figured I should see if the server can NTP query itself before proceeding to the clients. The weird part is when I run the ntpq -p command in a command-prompt when connected to my D-Link DIR-655 (firmware: 1.33), it hangs for about a minute or so each time before finally giving me some output. I thought the problem might have to do with Port Forwarding, so I configured the router to forward port 123 for the IP of the server, but that did not improve the situation. When I run the ntpq -p command on my school's network, on a Linksys WRT54G router, or with the wireless Airport card turned off - I have absolutely no problems - the command returns a response instantly. Is this normal? I can see why a query might take a minute or so, but I don't understand why one router does it faster than the other. I tried messing around with the ntp.conf file adding the burst, minpoll, and maxpoll options: server 127.127.1.0 burst minpoll 4 maxpoll 5 Figuring that perhaps I am polling too often and the configuration file is slowing me down, but even with this, the ntpq still hangs on the D-Link DIR-655, but does just fine on the other routers. Any thoughts on where the lag is coming from or if the lag is even a problem?

    Read the article

  • Ctrl Button Sicks

    - by Mr Shoubs
    I am running windows XP, I have a MS Natural Erganomic Keyboard 4000 v1.0, now and again the Ctrl button will stick (not physically), usually in the process of changing to a different window. It happens around 6 or 7 times a day. Really annoying. I've changed Keyboards (same type). Anyone know how to prevent this from happening?

    Read the article

  • Ctrl Button Sicks

    - by Mr Shoubs
    I am running windows XP, I have a MS Natural Erganomic Keyboard 4000 v1.0, now and again the Ctrl button will stick (not physically), usually in the process of changing to a different window. It happens around 6 or 7 times a day. Really annoying. I've changed Keyboards (same type). Anyone know how to prevent this from happening?

    Read the article

  • Few questions on dvd ram/rom

    - by Nrew
    Why other dvd rom/ram can read data from scratched disk and others cannot. For me its a comparison between LG and Lite On. Lite on, gets errors while reading disk with scratches. LG can read disk with scratches with no problems. Why is that? Is it possible to modify the software or the driver of the dvd rom so that it won't get errors when copying data from disk with scratches?

    Read the article

  • Cloning hard drive -- data, operating system settings, everything

    - by Salman A
    I am using Windows XP. My hard drive (Seagate 160gig Barracuda) is about to fail. Its already developed bad sectors and it seems to get worse everyday. Data transfer mode is down to PIO mode 2, chkdsk runs every now and then, registry and important windows files get corrupted and I spend 30-60 minutes running chkdsk /f /r from the recovery console. I've got a replacement (Seagate 5000gig Barracuda) and now i want to transfer each and every thing on to the new drive. I don't want to go through windows and software installation, I spent ages getting all those software installed and configured on that hard drive. Need advice: whats the best way to transfer everything onto the new drive so that it behaves just like the old one. And are there any "gotchas".

    Read the article

  • How to diagnose occasional sudden resets?

    - by steve314
    I have a Windows XP system, and have recently upgraded by adding 2 1GB sticks of RAM to the 2x0.5GB already present. Since then, about once per day (the system is used 8+ hours per day), the system has suddenly and unexpectedly reset. On a couple of occasions, the system has frozen completely, only responding to the power button being held in for several seconds to force power off. Nothing at all ever appears in the system event log that might indicate a possible cause - everything seems to suggest business as usual. Sounds like faulty memory - but memtest86+ says otherwise. A full test, taking over an hour, found no issues. The next likely suspicion, then, is that I've knocked something while installing the RAM. Trouble is, everything I can think of to test seems fine. I've opened up the case and prodded a few things around, hoping to get better contact on connections etc, but there's no sign yet as to whether that has made a difference or not. I thought about a malware-related timing fluke, but again, so far as I can tell I'm all clear. All I can think of to add to my checklist (mainly of things that I can't easily check) is... The power supply is (1) only 350W, (2) not necessarily the best quality, and (3) powering a Prescott P4 640 3.2GHz. Could that be borderline overloaded or about to die? How do I check? Is it possible that the CPU isn't getting cooled properly? I haven't had the fan past normal tickover even doing video encoding, and the only sane temperature reading from SpeedFan is pretty steady at 36 celcius, so probably not. Any thoughts? Is there a standard procedure for diagnosing this kind of fault?

    Read the article

  • Windows detected a hard disk failure* - what should I do?

    - by bart
    I'm using Windows 7 x64 Ultimate, I'm getting windows error popups like this one for about 3 days, multiple times a day: This Samsung SpinPoint F3 HD502HJ 500 GB is about 2 years old and I already checked it with Samsung ES Tool 3.0, did all the scans (took hours) and everything is fine! I have no malware, viruses and this started to happen after I have had some electrcity issues at my house (multiple power surges / overvolatege during the night, PC was connected, but turned off), any ideas? What other test should I perform? I believe the disk could be damaged, but then diagnostic tools should prove this, right? *in fact "Windows detected hard disk problem" but I was unable to put word "problem" within the title as well.

    Read the article

  • Computer makes hissing noise, turns off after few seconds

    - by Kaustubh P
    I have a problem similar to the questions posted here and here. This is my config: Asus M3N78-EM, with AMD Phenom X3 720 2800 Black Edition, 4GB Transcend DDR2 RAM, Nvidia 9400GT. HD is a 160 GB IDE, and a LG IDE DVD-ROM. The power button is a bit off, I have removed the cover of the switch, and the only way it turns on is just giving the "stick" under the cover a gentle press. It turns on sometimes, and at other times, I have to cut-off the power from the PSU, and try again. I will describe my problem in as detail as possible, please bear with me: The problem has started in the last week, a few months after I changed the to the powerswitch arrangement as described above. The PC makes a hissing noise, and I wasn't able to pin-point the noise source, because of the various other fans. At first, removing the HD, rebooting w/o the HD, turning it off, reconnecting and booting made the problem go away. But of late, it doesn't happen. As suggested in the other questions, I tried reducing the load by disconnecting both the IDE drives, and the problem (noise + turn-off) still occurs. I also connected another 80G IDE HD,today morning, adn it still made that noise, and turned off. I also opened up the PSU, but I couldn't see any fault in that, I tried rotating the fan by blowing into the blades, and with my fingers, but the hissing noise didn't come from there. Or maybe the speed wasn't enough to evoke that noise. A few weeks ago: I had cleaned the Cabinet and had repasted the processor and its fan using some thermal paste. Could that be at fault? I also used a vacuum to blow the dust out of the PSU, could the power have been too much, to maybe offset the fan or something? A label on the PSU says it uses a ball-bearing fan. That only leaves me with the Processor fan and the processor itself. I didn't try removing the processor fan and processor from the motherboard, and then turning the PC on, fearing damage. Will doing so cause any damage? What can I do to localize and pin-point the problem? Also, after a few tries, the Computer starts up. Sometimes it turns of within 2 seconds, sometimes after the POST. Once it turned off at the grub. Another time it booted completely and then turned off. The only way to ensure that the PC wont turn off, is if the hissing noise stops. EDIT: I suspect it to be the Processor/Processor fan, owing to the source of noise. All the config, except for the Cabinet, is just over a year old. EDIT2: I also just remembered, that I had set the "On-power resume" to turn on, i.e. If I supply he PC with power, it will turn itself on, w/o me needing to press the switch. I had done that to workaround the faulty power-switch, as noted above. EDIT3: I calculated the power my system needs, from the antec site, and I just arrived at 292W

    Read the article

  • Scan dis problem on xp

    - by Sarfraz Ahmed
    hi, I have four drives on my computer. The problem is that each time i start a computer the scan disk check runs for a drive even if i shut down my computer properly. I ran the thorough scandisk check but still for that drive, the scandisk check is always performed no matter what. I wonder what is wrong although everything is fine and accessible along with drive data. Could you guys please help me out of this? I am using Windows XP SP2. Thanks

    Read the article

  • Building a PC for Work and play? [closed]

    - by Derek Organ
    Ok, Its been a long time since I build my own PC so I'm looking to get back into it again and build a new one. First off budget is about €800 excluding the monitor and windows 7 licence and mouse. (just bought a new g500) I plan on using my computer for work, lots of applications open at once but none particularly excessive (photoshop being the most demanding, mostly coding tools) I also use it for some gaming, e.g. COD, Starcraft etc. One thing I do want to do eventually is get a really good monitor with hight resolution and maybe 27" so the graphics card needs to be able to make best use of that. So a few questions 1) Is the bottle neck in performance mostly still the harddrives? 2) Aren't most processors e.g. i5 etc even i3 so far a head of other bottlenecks it makes litte difference the higher you go. Isn't the Graphics card dealing with heavy graphics so what really slows because of a slow CPU? So from this my thinking is to get a SSD drive as my primary drive for OS etc and have loads of memory e.g. 6-8GB and a decent mid level graphics card? It doesn't seem at my level worth spending much on CPU and any other parts really. I basic parts off the top of my head Case, Motherboard CPU SSD Drive SATA Drive Power Supply Memory Cooling (fan?) Graphics Card Network Card Keyboard DVD drive Mouse Windows Monitor Am I missing anything? Any helpful tips or general education much appreciated. Thanks, Derek

    Read the article

  • Why does a hard disk suddenly look to Windows as if it "needs to be formatted"?

    - by pufferfish
    This is more of a theory question, but what are the reason(s) for a disk to suddenly cause Windows to start saying it "needs to be formatted"? It happens to an IDE disk that I have in a cheap external enclosure, and I can usually get most of the data back by using software like recuva. It's now happened to an internal disk I have. I'm not looking for software to fix this (although links would be appreciated), but rather a low-level explanation as to what gets corrupted on the disk.

    Read the article

  • Western Digital Smartware not detect External HDD

    - by romilnagrani
    Hi people, i recently buy WD Mybook Essential HDD 1 TB. I downloaded and install Smartware software in both my desktop (windows xp) and laptop (Windows 7) but in both case the s/w is not able to detect the external hard disc. It shows desktop/laptop (Whichever is apt) on left hand side of software but not the hard drive on right side. Why so? i need to install smartware s/w as my friend had gave me which i suppose had deleted the software. please help me thanks

    Read the article

  • RAID across SAS controller ports

    - by BlueGene
    Hi, I'm managing a HP DL360 G5 machine. It has a SAS controller with two ports. Port 1 is attached to 4 drive bays and Port 2 has 2 bays. The machine currently has 3 drives connected to Port 1 with RAID 5 configuration. I'm trying to max out the bays by adding 1 disk in port 1 and 2 in port 2. Can I group those three disks(1 disk-port, 2 disks-port 2) in a RAID 5 configuration?

    Read the article

  • Philips Monitor problems - vertical lines on screen

    - by asdasd
    I have an old CRT Philips Monitor 17'' and it was working well. There were problems with the electrical power and the monitor started to make some sound and a smoke was getting out of it. I quickly switched it off the power, and in the morning when the power was ok i started the monitor and it appeared to be working and it worked for a couple of minutes when i find out some smell was coming from it, and after 5 minutes the screen i was working shut down and on the monitor some vertical lines appeared - and nothing else. I thought it was the OS, so i rebooted the pc and while it was booting i realized the monitor didn't show the bios info etc, but the same vertical lines on the whole screen were on it, sometimes their color was changing and they were blinking, but no screen appeared - only those vertical lines. After a day, the monitor was ok again - i turned it on and no there were no lines, everything was working fine. The same for the next 2 days. My question is: If anyone had ever had the same problem, can you help me ? THe monitor may be ok now but i am afraid it can get back those lines again. I don't know what to do, if you know please tell me whether should i take it to the service or not. Thank you.

    Read the article

  • LCD problems: brightness / contrast blown out, can't bring up menu

    - by davr
    Yesterday, when I turned on my LCD monitor, the colors were very very bright. It looks as if someone had gone into the monitor on-screen-display and turned up brightness & contrast all the way to the max. Colors were washed out, and it's almost painful to look at. So I tried to go into the menu and see if the settings were wrong somehow...and I found that I cannot bring up the menu. All the buttons on the front of the monitor now do nothing, except the power button. I was able to go into my graphics card settings, and turn the brightness way down to compensate, so it's at least usable for now, but it's not quite right, there is definitely some loss of color resolution or something from the two extreme settings canceling each other out. Any ideas what kind of failure in the LCD might cause this? According to the control panel, the model number is: KL2490DW-D It's a 24" 1920x1200 with the brand "synaps".

    Read the article

< Previous Page | 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70  | Next Page >