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• How can I make my PCI-E graphics card visible to Ubuntu when the motherboard has integrated graphics

  - by Norman Ramsey

  I have a Gigabyte GA-MA74GM-S2 motherboard with integrated graphics that shows up on lspci as an ATI Radeon 2100. I also bought a PCI-Express Nvidia graphics card so I could use the VDPAU feature on Linux (plays H.264 in hardware). The BIOS has three settings about which display to initialize first: Integrated graphics PCI graphics PCI-Express graphics (PEG) I set the BIOS on PEG, but I cannot get anything, not even a splash screen or POST messages, to emerge from the PCI-Express graphics card. (I'm using a DVI connector; the card also has an HDMI output.) I cannot get the kernel lspci to see the graphics card; the only VGA controller it acknowledges is the integrated one. Running dmidecode acknowledges the existence of an x16 PCI Express slot, and it says Current usage: Unknown There is an additional BIOS setting called "Internal Graphics Mode" which is normally set to "Auto" which means it is supposed to prefer a PCI Express VGA card. I set it to "Disabled" which now means I'm getting no output at all. I will soon be learning how to do a BIOS reset! Other information: The PCI-E card is a MSI N210-MD512H GeForce 210. This is a fanless card. Although there are no fans to see turning, the heat sink on the PCI-E card is definitely getting hot, so the card is getting some sort of power. It gets all its power from the PCI-E slot; there is no external power connector. The BIOS is an AMI Award BIOS. My question: how can I make the PCI Express graphics card visible to Ubuntu?

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• "A disk read error occurred" when booting XP disk image in VirtualBox

  - by intuited

  I'm trying to boot an XP installation cloned into VirtualBox from a real drive. I'm getting the message A disk read error occurred Press Ctrl+Alt+Del to restart whenever* I try to boot the machine. * This is not strictly true: with AMD-V enabled, the boot process appears to not make it this far and instead hangs at a black screen with cursor. I created the VirtualBox image from the original drive using the following method: $ sudo ddrescue -n /dev/sdd sdd.img logfile # completed without errors $ VBoxManage convertfromraw sdd.img disk.vdi The original disk (and the image) contain a single NTFS partition with XP installed on it. The owner of the drive indicates that it did boot okay the last time the system made it that far. The (Pentium 4) system has a broken (enormous) heat sink, so at some point it failed to boot because it would quickly overheat and shut down. If I boot the VM from a live cd, I am able to mount its /dev/sda1 without any problems. I ran ntfsfix and didn't have any luck. I've read through the instructions on doing this. I didn't really follow them. For example, I didn't run MergeIDE before imaging because the machine was not bootable. However, the symptom of that problem seems to be quite different. The emitted message is contained in the volume boot record of the XP partition, which leads me to suspect that this is a problem with the core operating system bootstrap procedure, and not related to anything in the registry. I don't have an XP boot CD.

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• Troubleshooting wireless connection problem / site survey?

  - by johnnyb10

  I just started in the IT department of a small company (200 users) and it's clear that one of the main problems that is driving everyone crazy is the spotty nature of the wireless connectivity throughout the office, particularly in certain conference rooms. This is a huge problem because the connection often drops during important presentations to clients. I was hired to help ease the load on the existing IT admin, who has done a great job, but is overloaded with many other tasks to deal with. So I would like to try to help out with this wireless issue. I am looking for advice on the best way to solve this problem--a realistic troubleshooting methodology that does not require me to spend any money. So far, I've experimented with Ekahau Heat Mapper, which is free and helps create a site survey. But I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for or if there are other programs/tools/methods I should try as well. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. [Some background: The wireless setup consists of an HP ProCurve Mobility MSM (710?) controller that controls 10 access points throughout the building. There are three virtual wireless networks configured on the controller: one seems to be a default that cannot be changed, one is for internal employees and authenticates via Active Directory, and the third is a guest network for visitors. When I use HeatMapper, these show up as three different SSIDs, with different MAC addresses, all on the same channel. At first I thought maybe this would cause interference, but this seems to be the way the controller works;apparently, it automatically configures the channels to avoid interference from the other APs on the network.]

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• Can I use this power supply + case combination without causing problems?

  - by evan

  I am putting together a computer with a Antec P180 case and a Thermaltake TR2 RX 650 W power supply. The problem is that the Antec P180 case has a separate compartment for the power supply. With an opening for the on/off switch + ac connector to one side, a wall with a small hole for cables to route through on top, a wall on the bottom, and on the other side a fan which pushes air from the hard drive compartment to the power supply compartment. I think the design of the case assumes the power supplies fan is on the side next to the on/off switch, but the fan on the power supply I have is on top, which makes me worry about overheating the power supply. There is about half an inch between the top of the power supply and the wall and the other fan should keep air flowing to push out the air that the power supply pushes upwards. Do you think this setup should work, or should I go get another power supply? Thanks!! PS: This computer will be running an Ubuntu server, so it will always be on, but the rest of the components shouldn't be generating as much heat as they would on say a gaming machine.

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• How to use Windows mini-dump files?

  - by ekaj

  I have a Mini-ITX Intel DH61AG mobo w/ an Intel i3 processor and 8GB of 1600MHz DDR3 RAM. Anyways, this computer has been crashing kind of frequently. It is not an OS problem, as I have used Ubuntu (and had kernel panics), Windows 7, and Windows 8 (BSODs aren't going to keep me from tinkering =p) Anyways, each of these OSes have had problems, so I ran a HDD check, and I know it is not a heat issue because I tested the processor for a few days when I first put the computer together. When I ran memtest86+, however, I got an error - so I did individual testing, and both chips came back good, did a really intense test with both of them again (took half a day), and no errors. So, I still think the problem could be RAM, but I am not sure - I tested it pretty extensively (might let it run all night again tonight)... which brings me to my point. Could someone explain to me (in simple terms if possible) how to READ the minidump files of Windows computers? I've tried before with a guide I found online, but failed miserably (can't remember guide, either =/). I'm fine with installing the software, I will probably need it sometime in the future as well. I have seen a few other posts on SU that just ask people to post minidump logs, but I feel as if that is too localized. Would someone be able to explain this? Note: If someone knows how to do this, but doesn't want to explain and is still willing to help me, this is the link for the minidump file =p Make sure to click

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• Black Screen and System Hang - Possibly CPU overheating

  - by Mahesh

  I have this old computer - P4 2.0ghz, 1.2GB RAM and onboard graphics(no external card), 80GBHDD. It has xubuntu installed on it and it regularly hangs when it takes more system resources for say like graphical programs, too many tabs on firefox etc. It just either hangs the system or shows black screen. Tested if it was issue of HD but it wasn't because i have used linux livecd and problem is still the same even if I have removed the HD. I have also tested with USB linux (puppy linux and ubuntu linux on 8gb drives). Tested windows XP as well on this HD and results are the same. Tested another HD on this machine, results are still the same with it. System hangs or goes black screen and requires restart. I thought later it could be thermal heat issue and then applied thermal paste on heatsink but still it fails to work for me. It continues to show symptoms. Another thing which was yet to be tested is changing of CPU fan which was not done because I have not found any fan for old pentium 4 machine in the market. I have to hit online stores (but i am in india and it's hard to find it in online shops which can deliver it to me). So far I don't see this as HD or Monitor or OS issue because I have tested with other HD and results are the same. So it could be either CPU fan or motherboard? What could be possible issue with the hardware?

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• Computer turns off unexpectedly

  - by Shahar

  My computer turns itself off unexpectedly after some time of use. It appears that this might be temperature related, but not for sure. I installed 2 tools that monitor temperature: SpeedFan and CPU Thermometer. The only definite finding is that there is a sensor (labelled temp1 in SpeedFan and CPU in CPU thermometer), which shows a temperature of 108C a second before the computer powers down. Until that moment, this sensor shows a constant temperature of 40C. I can usually reproduce the shutdown by viewing a few movies together, which cause another sensor (labelled CPU in SpeedFan) to go up to 60sC, but I do experience the problem even at times when this sensor remains low and cool. It does seem that the problem is more frequent if the computer is turned back on immediately after shutdown, but not always. I have had other hardware problems recently, which might be related: My hard disk heated up. I installed a fan on it, which worked to reduce the heat. The hard disk sensor shows around 40C. I had occasional blue screens and hard disk failures. Replacing the power supply seems to solve both these issues, but then this powerdown problem began appearing. I would appreciate any suggestions as to how to determine where the fault is, or what needs to be replaced.

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• Nvidia GTS 360M in Asus laptop shuts off when gaming on external display

  - by mr odus

  I have had this problem on my Asus G51j Intel I5, Nvidia GTS360M graphics card. Just updated the drivers to latest off Nvidias site. Most games I play, If I hook it up through an external monitor(this happens whether it's HDMI or VGA). The laptop hard shuts down after about 20 minutes, give or take. This tends to happen on more graphically intense games like Call of dutys, bioshock. I'm running Windows 7, latest nvidia drivers. Games work fine on my laptops screen, and Movies, general computing work fine on the external displays. The laptop always sits on a cooling pad and the latest time was in front of my AC unit, I ran heatfan or whatever the heat tracking software was, and my temperatures were normal through a shut down. This has been happening for the life of the laptop. I dont play very many games, and even fewer on an external monitor, so this issue doesnt come up much Is it possible I have a faulty graphics card? Is there anything else I can try?

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• Any way to bring my laptop battery back to life?

  - by Josh

  Recently my laptop battery will get extremely hot (definitely hotter than it should get) when I charge it. After that I usually end up removing it once it's fully charged to let it cool down, which takes a couple hours... Question is, is my battery dead? My last battery I had that died just ended up lasting 2 - 3 minutes on battery, no weird heat issues. And is there any way to possibly fix this? Probably not but I won't be able to get a replacement anytime soon. UPDATE: A few days ago when this happened and it cooled down, assuming it was fully charged, I ran my laptop on battery, and the battery life lasted about 10 minutes and then the laptop shutdown. I then plugged it in later and charged it back up, and for a while I had a orange light blinking on my laptop - which I assumed meant the battery was dead, especially since I got 10 minutes battery life. Then today, I turned my laptop on and was surprised to see that the battery was at 20% and charging (it's been plugged in since the incident above, so it should have been fully charged when I shut it off) I let it charge up, and as usual it got pretty hot around the time it was fully charged. So I turned my laptop off and pulled the battery out to let it cool down Now the thing is, just now I tried running it on battery, and it's been going for an hour now... so maybe its not dead? (also the orange light is no longer blinking...) Thanks in advance if anyone knows whats going on, and how to fix it, if its fixable =] EDIT: Some info if it helps... my laptop is about 2 years ago, and it's an Asus K50ID. I know laptop batteries usually don't last more than a year but I'm trying to keep this one going for as long as I can.

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• Cooling for a small server room

  - by John Zwinck

  I have a server room about 12 feet square with an unfinished ceiling (exposed ducts and wiring). It houses a few servers (about ten, 1U and 2U) and some networking gear (four 1U switches, three routers, three modems, two cable boxes). With the door closed, it runs around 80 degrees Fahrenheit with half the servers turned on. When I turned on all the servers it reached 86 before I chickened out and propped the door open. The room is adjacent to air-conditioned office space, but does not itself have dedicated air conditioning. The ventilation for this room seems to be limited to one duct coming in at ceiling level, with a powered fan to draw air in, and one duct at ceiling level to allow air to flow out (it seems like it may just go into the drop ceiling cavity in the adjacent room). The adjacent office space stays fairly cool, but I'd prefer not to leave the door propped open all the time. There is both 110v and 208v service in the room, and plenty of power available. But there are no windows, and no floor drains (in a pinch we might be able to run a condensation hose through a small hole we'd drill in the wall to a nearby sink area, but only if absolutely necessary). I've considered portable A/C units, but I'm not sure on sizing and a lot less sure how we would run the exhaust hose(s). I suppose we could point one at the existing room exhaust duct (air return), but substantially modifying the duct is probably a no-no. I've also considered installing a fan box in the door of the room, but I'm concerned that this will only drop the temperature a little. Even right now, with all the equipment on, the room is at 83 degrees with the door open. And the main building A/C turns off daily at 6 PM to conserve energy, so the adjacent room temperature rises at night. How would you cool this room? Let's say the goal is to bring the temperature with everything running from a steady state of around 90 degrees down to 75 (equivalently, to offset the heat produced by ten 1U servers).

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• Windows 7 Loading Very Slow

  - by Adnan

  Hi guys, I've had a problem that only started to occur yesterday. When I boot into Windows 7 and log on to my user account, the computer gets very laggy and slow for at least 5 minutes. Icons take ages to load, and everything is rendered unclickable. This happens for about five minutes after which everything goes back to normal. I tried restarting a few times to see if this is a recurring problem, and it is. I ran a full system scan with Microsoft Security Essentials and found nothing wrong, and I also defragmented the disk to increase performance. However, the problem still exists. Edit: For the past day, I've been trying to install Ubuntu on the same laptop. When installing it on a partition didn't work, I decided to use Wubi. Could this somehow be the problem? Also, my hard drive gets hot a lot, so could the heat be affecting the hard drive and maybe making it defective? Any help on this issue would be greatly, greatly appreciated.

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• How harmful is a hard disk spin cycle?

  - by Gilles

  It is conventional wisdom¹ that each time you spin a hard disk down and back up, you shave some time off its life expectancy. The topic has been discussed before: Is turning off hard disks harmful? What's the effect of standby (spindown) mode on modern hard drives? Common explanations for why spindowns and spinups are harmful are that they induce more stress on the mechanical parts than ordinary running, and that they cause heat variations that are harmful to the device mechanics. Is there any data showing quantitatively how bad a spin cycle is? That is, how much life expectancy does a spin cycle cost? Or, more practically, if I know that I'm not going to need a disk for X seconds, how large should X be to warrant spinning down? ¹ But conventional wisdom has been wrong before; for example, it is commonly held that hard disks should be kept as cool as possible, but the one published study on the topic shows that cooler drives actually fail more. This study is no help here since all the disks surveyed were powered on 24/7.

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• How harmful is a hard disk spin cycle?

  - by Gilles

  It is conventional wisdom¹ that each time you spin a hard disk down and back up, you shave some time off its life expectancy. The topic has been discussed before: Is turning off hard disks harmful? What's the effect of standby (spindown) mode on modern hard drives? Common explanations for why spindowns and spinups are harmful are that they induce more stress on the mechanical parts than ordinary running, and that they cause heat variations that are harmful to the device mechanics. Is there any data showing quantitatively how bad a spin cycle is? That is, how much life expectancy does a spin cycle cost? Or, more practically, if I know that I'm not going to need a disk for X seconds, how large should X be to warrant spinning down? ¹ But conventional wisdom has been wrong before; for example, it is commonly held that hard disks should be kept as cool as possible, but the one published study on the topic shows that cooler drives actually fail more. This study is no help here since all the disks surveyed were powered on 24/7.

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• My desktop has started overheating -- how hot is hot?

  - by Jerry

  I have a two year old desktop, some random quad core HP desktop. It used to run very quietly, but in the past month, the fans start up anytime anything "serious" is being done -- compiles, playing video, etc. Right now, speedfan and speccy report the cores are between 50C and 70C. Speedfan reports this as hot. (Nice flame icon.) Well, the system does sit on my carpet, so two weeks ago, I took off the lid, and cough *cough* it was pretty filled with dust. I got out an air can, turned on a vacuum and carefully got out all the dust that I saw on the CPU fan the case fans any fan I saw (graphics board) and blew out all the dust I could from all the circuit boards. And then I closed the case back up. It has definitely run cooler since then, but it still runs hot, and I hear high speed fan noise I never heard before. How hot is too hot? At what temps do consumer grade CPUs die? What should I be looking to do? Replace CPU fan? (It seems to work) Replace power supply fan? Assuming the dust problem is gone, where should I be looking to determine why the machine is heating up? Epilogue: After following the various pieces of advice given here, the system did run cooler, but it was still noticeably running louder (hotter) than just a few months prior. I ended up purchasing a new cpu heatsink and fan and during installation found the cooling grease from the original heatsink was just a dried, cracked layer, probably more of an insulator than heat transfer agent. With the new fan AND the new heatsink compound, the system ran much much cooler and the fan rarely turns on.

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• How to run the CPU at something like 75%?

  - by Tobias Kienzler

  My notebook is too old for me to invest into a new fan (it will simply be replaced by a new one when the final heat death occurs), but when it runs on full speed I feel like sitting in front of a vacuum cleaner with integrated cooking... I'm currently using NHC, the Max Battery mode of which let's the CPU run at 50% (~800 MHz). That's fine for most applications, and both temperature and noise remain low. However, on some occasions I need a bit more speed, more around 75% maybe. Can I set the power saving settings somehow so that the CPU won't surpass 75% of it's capability so that an acceptable compromise between power and noise is achieved? I can't set the CPU frequency in the BIOS and since on rare occasions I'd like to be able to switch to 100% without much hassling, hardware solutions like setting jumpers are no option. This answer to a similar (linux!) question mentions NHC should be able to offer these options, but for me they are all greyed out: The notebook is an Asus Z9200K, I guess NHC doesn't support its chipset enough for these advanced options.

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• Computer resetting semi-randomly

  - by Peter

  Hi, I'm having a problem with my desktop whereby it sometimes resets itself semi-randomly. For example, I'll switch it on, it'll boot an OS and shortly after getting to the desktop it will immediately reset with no warning. The time isn't consistent - sometimes it does it before reaching login. I'm pretty sure it's not an OS thing; have tried Ubuntu and a Windows install and both exhibit it. It also doesn't appear to be heat-related because sometimes it appears to be able to "get past" it and will then run stably even under load; if anything it seems to be worse from a cold start. My gut feeling is some kind of power issue but I'm clutching at straws a little. Any suggestions on how I could go about testing it or trying to narrow the problem down would be appreciated. The machine is four years old now so while I can replace components if needed, it's not worth enough that I'm comfortable buying new parts without being pretty confident that they'll fix the problem. Thanks in advance for any help :) Edit: Okay, the motherboard is a MSI K8N SLI; CPU is an Athlon64 X2 4200+. Has one video card, a GeForce 7800GT. 1GB RAM, not sure of brand; 3 hard drives, two SATA and one PATA. Flashed motherboard to latest BIOS some time ago. Edit the Second: I thought I'd narrowed it down to the PSU for a while, but then it recurred again. I ended up pulling everything out but CPU, RAM and motherboard and it still seems to be stuffed (if anything, it's gotten worse in the last couple of days). I assume it's one of those three components, but the machine is old enough that I don't really want to spend money replacing any of them. So thanks for everyone's suggestions; much appreciated!

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• PC freezes after repeated clicking noises

  - by Péter Török

  I have an oldish PC (Athlon XP 2200, WinXP). Every time I switch it on, I hear a loud "click" first of all, and when it is shut down, again a click is the last sound I hear. Lately it started to behave erratically: it started to click loudly in the middle of a session. First only once in a while, then repeatedly for several seconds in a row, and finally it froze completely. We were not doing anything particular during these times, usually just browsing the web. This has already happened twice in a few week's time period. We typically use it only in the evenings, so when the freeze happened, I just decided it is time for the bed. When it was started up the next day, everything looked fine. Any hints on what could be the culprit? Could it be caused by an ageing heat fan, or dust that has accumulated inside the case? We are backing up all the data stored on it, and then will open the case to look inside, but I thought it would be good to get some background info first of all.

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• Software way to cool down an old MacBook Pro

  - by notMacBookProSuperUser

  Hi all, First a little background: I've got lots of computers, including Linux PCs and two MacBook Pro (and a MacMini). My concern is with my 'old' MacBookPro (Core Duo). It really does overheat. Warranty is long void. Years ago (I'd say 2.5 years ago or so) one day it overheated so bad that the battery inflated due to the heat. I got a new battery for free but it's still getting incredibly hot (much other than any other computer I've got: my newer Core 2 Duo MacBook Pro doesn't get nearly as hot as the old one. It s really a pain because I use my old MBP when I m in front of TV, having it on my lap, and it can really become unbearable. I don't want to open that old MBP. On Linux I can force a new CPU 'governor' that decides how the CPU is allowed to operate: it can be 'on demand', 'always max speed', 'always speed x', etc. Does the same exist under MacOS X? Is there a way, say if a 1.86 Ghz Core Duo can run at 1.6 Ghz, to ask MacOS X: "never run this CPU above 1.6 Ghz" ?

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• Is my laptop battery dead?

  - by Josh

  Recently my laptop battery will get extremely hot (definitely hotter than it should get) when I charge it. After that I usually end up removing it once it's fully charged to let it cool down, which takes a couple hours... Question is, is my battery dead? My last battery I had that died just ended up lasting 2 - 3 minutes on battery, no weird heat issues. And is there any way to possibly fix this? Probably not but I won't be able to get a replacement anytime soon. UPDATE: A few days ago when this happened and it cooled down, assuming it was fully charged, I ran my laptop on battery, and the battery life lasted about 10 minutes and then the laptop shutdown. I then plugged it in later and charged it back up, and for a while I had a orange light blinking on my laptop - which I assumed meant the battery was dead, especially since I got 10 minutes battery life. Then today, I turned my laptop on and was surprised to see that the battery was at 20% and charging (it's been plugged in since the incident above, so it should have been fully charged when I shut it off) I let it charge up, and as usual it got pretty hot around the time it was fully charged. So I turned my laptop off and pulled the battery out to let it cool down Now the thing is, just now I tried running it on battery, and it's been going for an hour now... so maybe its not dead? (also the orange light is no longer blinking...) Thanks in advance if anyone knows whats going on, and how to fix it, if its fixable =] EDIT: Some info if it helps... my laptop is about 2 years ago, and it's an Asus K50ID. I know laptop batteries usually don't last more than a year but I'm trying to keep this one going for as long as I can.

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• Looking for comprehensive computer monitoring software

  - by cornjuliox

  Summer in this country is insanely hot. So hot in fact, that I think we just lost a machine due to overheating (last recorded CPU/GPU temp was close to 100 C, now it wont start and lets out a long series of short beeps on power up), but that's not my concern here. Since heat is such a problem for me, I use several different pieces of software to monitor temperatures in my machine. I use MSI Afterburner to monitor GPU temp, control GPU fan speed and for some light overclocking, and then I use Speccy and SpeedFan to monitor the rest of the system, CPU temp and everything. The setup works fine for now, but I want to consolidate all this into one program so I'm not juggling several windows at once. Is there any program out there that will let me monitor the following from a single window: CPU Temp and Fan Speed CPU clock GPU Temp and Fan Speed GPU clock, both core and memory Additionally, mobo temp (Speccy lists both CPU and Motherboard temp, I assume that the latter is referring to North and Southbridge temperatures. I'm also looking for the ability to chart these data points on a graph over time, basically to see just how high the temperatures spike under load and for general analysis. It'd be nice if it could handle overclocking of both CPU and GPU in real time too. Any suggestions? Edit: I forgot to mention that I'm on Windows 7, 64-bit

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• Getting rid of your server in a small business environment

  - by andygeers

  In a small business environment, is it still necessary to have a central server? Speaking for my own company (a small charity with about 12 employees) we use our server (Windows Server 2003) for the following: Email via Microsoft Exchange Central storage Acting as a print server User authentication / Active Directory There are significant costs associated with running a server like this: Electricity, first for the server itself then for the air conditioning required (this thing pumps out a lot of heat) Noise (of which there is a lot) IT support bills (both Windows Server and Exchange are pretty complicated, and there are many ways they can go wrong) I've found ways to replace many of these functions with cheaper (better?) alternatives: Google Apps / GMail is a clear win for us: we have so many spam related problems it's not even funny, and Outlook is dog slow on our aging computers You can buy networked storage devices with built in print servers, such as the Netgear ReadyNAS™ RND4210 that would allow us to store/share all of our documents, and allow us to access printers over the network The only thing that I can't figure out how to do away with is the authentication side of things - it seems to me that if we got rid of our server, you'd essentially have a bunch of independent PCs that had no shared pool of user accounts / no central administrator. Is that right? Does that matter? Am I missing any other good reasons to keep a central server? Does anybody know of any good, cost-effective ways of achieving the same end but without the expensive central server?

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• LG LW20 Express won't boot after hdd replace

  - by Mika

  My old laptop (LG LW20 Express) got a hdd failure and I replaced the hdd. Now the laptop won't boot from cd or usb. I'm trying to install ubuntu on it. When I turn the laptop on it shows me the startup screen but when it should be the time to load operating system it just gives a black screen and starts over. This loop continues until I shut down the laptop. I created the usb boot drive following this guide https://help.ubuntu.com/community/Installation/FromUSBStick/ I used my boot cd to install ubuntu on this machine I'm using right now. So at least the cd should work. From the BIOS I can see that my newly installed hdd is recognized and put as a secondary master. Also the cd and removable media are in the boot list before hdd. The laptop runs pretty hot. The fan is at full speed pretty soon after the laptop is turned on. Earlier I suspected that it would have been the almost broken hdd that would have produced that heat but there obviously is something else also. Any ideas what to check?

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• Computer sponteously reboots when doing heavy file copy to/from disk

  - by Mark Hosang

  I've been fighting with this problem for the last 3 weeks where my machine will just instantly reboot. No BSOD, and when i checked the event log all that was reported was the generic "Kernal-power" error with the detailed information pointing to a hard crash. This is a machine that was working for 18 months before these crashes started happening. When they started happening is after I added 3 HDs in a RAID-5, upped the memory to 12gb, moved to a new house, added a SSD and added about 5 case fans. I have thus eliminated the RAID, and determined that the SSD was not the cause (because it was still crashing even though the ssd wasn't connected). I've run memtest several times over night with no memory problems showing up. I've run IntelBurnTest to max out the cpu to see if it was a heat issue and at full tilt after 20 min it was only at 85C and the machine didn't crash. I also took a look at the voltages during this test, with a screenshot at the bottom of this post I've ruled out a software issue by reinstalling windows 7 ultimate x64 a total of 5 times, but even during that the install it crashes. Happens sometime during file copying at the beginning, or during uncompressing files, or sometimes during running windows update. The only discernible pattern i can see is that it seems to crash when hard disks might be spinning up or when they are accessed heavily from large file transfers. My current guess is that it is probably an issue with the MB, PSU or the power coming through the outlet. Any suggestions of what i could try to troubleshoot or what may be wrong? Specs PSU: Seasonic M12 700w Mem: 12gb CPU: i7-920 with stock heatsink MB: Asus P6T HDs: 3 green WD and 1 Corsair force 3 120b with 1.3.3 firmware Running full tilt voltages Idling Voltages

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• Tomato/DD-WRT router to act as switch & only NAT some port

  - by fseto

  BACKGROUND: I have a device that must use a real IP address. Currently, my ISP uses DHCP and I can have up to 4 real IP address assigned. However, the cable modem only have 1 ethernet port and it's connected to my router (running Tomato, but can run DD-wrt or other Openwrt if required). Question stems from how I can connect the additional device, requiring a real IP? EASY SOLUTION: would be to get a switch and connect to the CM, Router, and Device. But alas, I want to avoid this route, since: my wiring cabinet in my home is drawing lots of power and heat already Device will be unprotected by any firewall unable to monitor the traffic to/from device. Besides, what would be the FUN in that? =) IDEA: So what I want to do is to configure the router, so that one of the switchport is removed from the normal br0 bridge. Instead, I want to make it behave like a switch on the WAN port. What's the best way of doing this? Should I create another bridge on the WAN & the device port? Can a single port belongs to two bridges? or would I need to create a subinterface first? Would I need a DHCP-relay? Am I expecting too much from my poor cheapie router? +------+ | CM | +--++--+ || +----WAN---------------+ | / \ Router | | BR1? BR0 | | | \ | | | {NAT} | | | / | | \ | +-P0----P1-P2-P3-Wifi--+ | +------+ |Device| +------+

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• Windows 7 hangs after going into sleep a second time

  - by Brian Stephenson

  I've searched everywhere around Google and can't figure out why this is happening so I decide to ask here to see if anyone has a problem like this. Like it says in the title, whenever I sleep ONCE I'm able to wake the system, but going back to sleep again AFTER waking up for the first time results in it hanging on no input and no output, with the fan spinning as fast as possible and alot of heat being spewed out by the fan as well. I've tried various things like setting all USB Hub Root's to not get switched off for power saving, disabling USB selective suspend, disabling PCI-e link state power management, and even unplugging ALL USB devices and it wont wake up after the second attempt. And I've even waited up to a full hour of the CPU fan spinning loudly and it's still stuck trying to wake up. The only USB devices I use are a Microsoft USB Comfort Curve Keyboard 2000 (IntelliType Pro) and a generic HID compliant mouse from Creative model number OMC90S "CREATIVE MOUSE OPTICAL LITE". My other devices like external drives and controllers are unplugged when I'm not using them as having too many USB devices plugged in at a time causes a deadlock on almost all of the ports I have. Here's my system specifications (Most of these are from CPU-Z): Brand: Gateway DX4300-19 Mainboard: Gateway RS780 Chipset: AMD 780G Rev 00 Southbridge: AMD SB700 Rev 00 LPCIO: ITE IT8718 BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. ver P01-A4 09/15/2009 CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 810 at 2.60 GHz RAM: 8.0 GB DDR2 Dual Channel Ganged Mode at 400 MHz GPU: ATI Radeon HD3200 Graphics Intergrated - RS780 OS: Windows 7 Home Premium x64 OEM (Acer Group) HDD: WDC WD10EADS-22M2B0 1.0 TB (Western Digital Green Caviar) My BIOS has absolutely no control over how I setup the sleep mode to be either S1 or S3. So I can't check these settings or even change them. Hybrid sleep is also disabled, I can successfully go into hibernation and wake from hibernation but this is painfully slow due to a harddrive problem I'm having with this "Green Drive". (Hibernation takes over ~3 minutes to complete) Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

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