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• Getting dwl-g122 to work on ubuntu

  - by User1

  I have a USB WiFi adapter, D-Link dwl-g122. I'm running Ubuntu 10.4. My laptop has a built-in wireless card that is connecting fine to the router. I plug in the usb and it never really connects. Here are some details: iwconfig wlan1 IEEE 802.11bg ESSID:"\x0B\xE1..." Mode:Managed Frequency:2.457 GHz Access Point: Not-Associated Tx-Power=19 dBm Retry long limit:7 RTS thr:off Fragment thr:off Power Management:on lshw -c network: *-network:1 description: Wireless interface physical id: 3 logical name: wlan1 serial: 00:13:46:8b:xx:xx capabilities: ethernet physical wireless configuration: broadcast=yes multicast=yes wireless=IEEE 802.11bg dmesg [ 1096.814176] wlan1: direct probe to AP xxx (try 1) [ 1096.820960] wlan1: direct probe responded [ 1096.820969] wlan1: authenticate with AP xxx (try 1) [ 1096.823790] wlan1: authenticated [ 1096.823869] wlan1: associate with AP xxx (try 1) [ 1096.827667] wlan1: RX AssocResp from xxx (capab=0x411 status=0 aid=1) [ 1096.827674] wlan1: associated [ 1142.590912] wlan1: deauthenticating from xxx by local choice (reason=3) lsmod|rt2 rt2500usb 19643 0 rt2x00usb 11260 1 rt2500usb rt2x00lib 32133 2 rt2500usb,rt2x00usb mac80211 238896 3 ath5k,rt2x00usb,rt2x00lib cfg80211 148725 4 ath5k,ath,rt2x00lib,mac80211 led_class 3764 3 ath5k,rt2x00lib,sdhci It looks like the driver loads but it doesn't feel like connecting. The behavior is identical even if I blacklist the other wifi card (using an ath5k driver). It's almost like it is using the wrong password or something. Does anyone know what is happening? Is anyone using Ubuntu successful?

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• Uninstalled server 2008 now router won't handle DHCP

  - by john

  My set up is this. server behind router, router has a server and switch connected to it with multiple computers. router used to serve DHCP and DNS, a couple of days ago installed AD, DNS and DHCP on the server, and the server gave out IP's. For various reasons we had to uninstall the domain on our server. I removed AD, DHCP and DNS from the roles and set the router back to serving DHCP and DNS. Now I can't get computers on the network. I reset my router back to factory defaults, and if I plug a computer directly into the router I can get a IP address, but all the computers behind the switch can't get an IP address and can't see the router. All my computers say unidentified network, and if I ping the router it says host is unreachable. On the other hand, my wireless devices are just fine and connect no problem. But for desktops, ipconfig /release doesn't release anything and /renew can't find a server to renew on. My router log shows several FIN scans but they are from innocuous websites (google, netgear) and it shows a couple of smurf attacks but they are all from my external IP. Any ideas? the server isn't even connected to the route right now, and all the computers are set for dynamic IP addresses.. I don't know what else to try? Any help?

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• Dropbox picture sync: Skip RAW files?

  - by Steven Lu

  I like the convenience of having Dropbox keep track of my photos because it tends to work with my devices over 3G (I am often tethering to my phone with my iPad and Macbook) as well as Wifi, but it's a waste of network traffic to sync the raw files from my camera or memory card. It clutters up the dropbox list and the files are just huge. Is there a way to configure the Dropbox client so that it ignores a certain file extension for the picture sync? Also, I suspect that if I just go and delete the raw files, that the next time I plug in the memory card and tell Dropbox to sync, it will re-download the raw files. Which would be terribad. I could switch to iCloud for Photo Stream, I suppose, but there will be no access via 3G that way. And I've already got years of experience with Dropbox so I know it's going to just work. I think any method that works for filtering files to exclude from sync on Dropbox in general should work here too. Edit: Wow there are 19k votes for this exact request.

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• Windows 7 - ignore security when reading external drive

  - by w-

  hi, My system hard drive on an XP computer kind of failed (random corrupt sectors). So i got a new harddrive and am trying to recover the files. The filesystem is NTFS. The system i'm trying to use when recovering the files is Windows 7. I'm obviously an admin on this box. The last data i'm trying to recover is stuff in the Documents and Settings folder. I'm using a SATA to a USB cable thingy so that I just plug it in as an External Hard Drive. The problem: In Windows Explorer when i try to copy the data, I keep getting prompted with Security warnings and error messages. It keeps telling me i have to change the owner permissions of the folder and all it's contents. If i tell it to change all the files and folder permissions it takes a really long time because it has to recurse through all the folder contents to change the permissions. Is there a way for me to ignore the file permissions when doing this? thanks

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• Problems reviving old pc including graphics card issue.

  - by Mick

  I have a PC that seemed to have died years ago that I am trying to revive. It has a dual core athlon processor and a gigabyte motherboard. It had two dual output graphics cards, and I have long since forgotten which output would print out the diagnostic information as the PC starts up. Also I suspect that the resolution set on all the monitors was probably higher than my current single monitor is capable of displaying. The motherboard also has a built in graphics card, so I thought it may be simplest to remove both the graphics cards and plug my monitor into the onboard graphics just while I get things going. Does that seem sensible? Now the other problem: The PC has two hard drives. I have no idea which one is the primary one it is attempting to boot from. When I power up, the fan comes on and I hear some chuga-chuga-pause chuga-chuga-pause repeat indefinitely. I'm not sure which device is making the noise. There are no-beeps at any time. I see nothing on the screen at any time, not even for a second. Any suggestions? EDIT: If T start up the PC without the power connected to the CDrom there is no chuga-chugan noise.

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• Could replacing an old hard drive's circuit board make it work again?

  - by oscilatingcretin

  I have a 12-year-old, 10gb Maxtor drive that died on me around 7 years ago, but I have not had the heart to throw it away. When the computer powers on, it whirrs silently as it tries to spin up and then it stops. So, a few years ago, I sent it off for professional data recovery. They were able to retrieve quite a bit from it, but I know there's a bunch more there. It only cost $700, so I just chalked up the lackluster recovery effort to "you get what you pay for" considering that most companies will charge you several thousands of dollars for this kind of data recovery. When they sent the drive back, I couldn't help but plug it back in just to see if maybe they unjammed something in the process of disassembling/reassembling the drive. To my surprise, the drive had a much healthier spin-up sound and actually stayed spinning for several minutes before winding down to a halt. Windows is even able to detect and interact with the drive, but I get I/O errors after so many minutes of waiting for it to mount. Before I start doing stupid stuff with it like dropping it on the ground, freezing it, crapping on it, etc, I decided to buy the exact same model off Ebay so that I could swap the circuit boards as a last-ditch effort. While it's en route, I thought I'd come here to ask if this is even a worthwhile effort and, if even remotely so, what should I know before ripping off the old board and slapping on the new?

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• Ubuntu 10.10 - PC shutdown before boot shortly after BIOS loads

  - by clem

  Hi - Since installing Ubuntu 10.10 from Karmic I've started getting problems with starting up the PC. I've done a complete wipe (Boot and Nuke) of the hard drive and reinstalled Ubuntu 10.10 but the problem still occurs. There is no dual boot on the PC, just Ubuntu. Here is the problem: Each morning, when I turn the PC on from being off overnight, the PC starts up and loads the BIOS. I get the following message : "Verifying DMI Pool Data... K8 NPT Data Change...Update New Data to DMI!....... Then poof the computer shuts off. However, after switching the computer back on around 6 or 7 times after it's turned itself off, it will eventually boot up without any problem. Also, once up and running for a while, I can shutdown and restart the PC first time, without any issues. I have also noticed a problem with the USB mouse being recognised and once I finally get the computer booted up, I need to unplug and then plug the mouse back in to get it working. I've opened the PC up and checked the connections (cables, cards and memory) and it all seems fine. The main issue with troubleshooting this problem is I cannot test any suggestions or fixes until the next morning because once the computer is up and running it will remain so! I do not leave the computer on overnight to save energy. So.. is this a hardware / boot software issue? This is a very odd problem and I have googled to no avail. Any suggestions? Many thanks Clem

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• Can I have a single solid state drive and a RAID array on the same machine? [closed]

  - by jaminto

  Hi- To summarize, i'm looking to use a single solid state drive as my primary drive, and two conventional sata drives in a RAID 1 configuration for data. I am trying to install 64-bit Windows 7 onto this configuration. Is this possible? Here are the details: I built a desktop that has been running 64-bit Vista on two 500Gb in a RAID 1 array for a few years. I just purchased an Intel X25-M 80Gb Sata Solid-State Drive, and was planning on using this a my primary drive, and keeping the RAID 1 array as my data drive. I added the SSD drive and in the RAID setup, configured it as a RAID 0 array of only one disk. Then, I tried to do a clean install of windows 7 64-bit, but got stuck in the "Missing driver for CD/DVD drive" black hole of selecting driver files and Windows telling me that i don't have the appropriate driver for my hardware. The missing hardware is NOT a CD/DVD drive, since i'm installing off of my only CD/DVD drive. Plus at one point i was able to point it at a driver for my raid controller, and then my hard drives magically showed up as browsable sources for finding drivers for some other unnamed device that setup couldn't recognize. After a few hours of trying drivers (this was a very slow process) i decided to reboot and look at the BIOS settings. I'm using an ASUS M2A-VM motherboard which has an ATI SB600 RAID controller on board. I switched the "On board SATA Type" setting from "SATA" to "AHCI" thinking that since AHCI is an Intel thing, this would help. Unfortunately, this abandoned my RAID configuration, and my previously mirrored drives are showing up as separate drives when i boot into my current windows installation. Am i trying to do the impossible here? Should i just buy a separate SATA/RAID PCI card and plug the SSD into that? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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• Custom PCI bracket with support, for custom PCB?

  - by newbiez

  I am considering to put a custom PCB card that I made, into my computer. It won't go on any PCI connector, it plugs in on a USB connector on the motherboard, via a ribbon cable. I need thou to plug a device to it; which means that either I leave the PCB outside the case, hanging by the ribbon (bad idea), or I could put it in a PCI slot, using a bracket. The issue is that the brackets that I have, do not have tabs, so I have no way to screw the PCB on them. I was hoping to find something that would allow me to put the PCB on it, and then just fit it in the PCI bracket opening, like this: http://www.idotpc.com/TheStore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=1203&idcategory=0 This one won't fit the bill since the holes are too close apart, compared to the one that I have already on the PCB (and can't make more holes). Do you know if there is a place where they make universal PCI bracket mounting systems for custom PCB? I just need one, so can't even order a custom one (they ask me 120 dollars for one). Thanks in advance!

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• Hard Reset USB in Ubuntu 10.04

  - by Cory

  I have a USB device (a modem) that is really finicky. Sometimes it works fine, but other times it refuses to connect. The only solution I have found to fix it once it gets into a bad state is to physically unplug the device and plug it back in. However, I don't always have physical access to the machine it is plugged in on, so I'm looking for a way to do this through the command line. This post suggests running: $ sudo modprobe -w -r usb_storage; sudo modprobe usb_storage However I get an "unknown option -w" output. This slightly modified command: $ sudo modprobe -r usb_storage Fails with the message FATAL: Module usb_storage is in use. If I try to kill -9 the processes marked [usb-storage] before running they refuse to die (I think because they are deeply tied to the kernel). Anyone know of a way to do this? NOTE: I cross-posted this on serverfault as I didn't know which was more appropriate. I will delete and/or link whichever one is answered first.

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• Workaround for Dell "Power Supply Not Recognised" issue

  - by Haedrian

  So, I have a Dell Inspirion and the power supply port appears to be damaged. Basically when I plug it in I get a nice popup telling me that it couldn't detect that its a Dell power supply so it won't charge the battery and underclocks the system. It still works for other purposes (that is, giving power) I thought it was the actual power supply cable so I bought a new one, that worked for a while, provided I inserted it at JUST THE RIGHT angle. But now that's not working anymore, so I assume its the part which connects to the computer. The battery charging I can live without, the underclocking I can't. I'd like a way around this issue. Things I've tried: Updating the BIOS Replacing the power supply cable Inserting it at different angles Turning it off and on again Swearing at it Twisting it while inserting it So, is there a workaround somehow? I'd like to avoid taking out my soldering kit and risking permanently damaging expensive equipment if that's allright. I'm hoping for a software solution. Added: The exact model is a Del Inspirion N5010

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• Configuring WPA WiFi in Ubuntu 10.10

  - by sma

  Hello, I am trying to configure my wireless network on my laptop running Ubuntu 10.10 and am having a bit of difficulty. I am a complete Linux newb, but want to learn it, hence the reason I'm trying to set this up. Here's the vitals: It is a Gateway 600 YG2 laptop. It was previously running Windows XP, but I installed Ubuntu 10.10 in place of it (not a dual boot, I removed XP altogether). I have an old wireless card that I'm trying to resurrect. I haven't really used the card in a couple years, but it seems to still work, I just can't connect to my home's wireless network. The card is a Linksys WPC11 v2.5. When I plug it in, Ubuntu recognizes the network, but won't connect to it. My home network uses WPA encryption and the only connection type that Ubuntu's network manager is giving me is WEP and then it asks for a key -- I have no idea what that key should be. So, basically, I'm asking, is there a way I can instead connect through WPA? I've tried creating a new connection in network manager, but that won't work, it keeps falling back to the WEP connection and asking me for a key. I have tried to install the XP driver using ndiswrapper but I don't know if that's working or not. Is there a way to tell if: A) the card is working as it should B) the correct drivers are installed (again, I installed the XP one using ndiswrapper NET8180.INF, but I'm not sure what to do next) Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

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• Network bandwidth usage dashboard?

  - by SkippyFlipjack

  I have a couple of wifi access points hooked up to my home network, one of which I keep unsecured for some development I do; there are only a couple other homes within range and they've got their own wifi so it's not a big concern. I also have a Sonos system, Tivo, Roku, a couple laptops, a couple phones, an iPad and a desktop machine, all of which are internet-smart. So when my internet bandwidth tanks and it takes five minutes to load a YouTube video, I want to know what's going on, and there are many potential culprits. I'd like to be able to plug my MacBook into the primary router and see a nice little dashboard of the units on the network and what kind of bandwidth each is using at that moment. I could figure this out from WireShark or tcpdump but figure there has to be an easier way. I've tried a few different commercial products but none really presented the right info. Suggestions? (This may be a question for superuser since my Apple Time Capsule's SNMP capabilities are limited, but I figure admins of small business networks would have dealt w/ the same issue..)

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• 3 Monitor PCI-e Graphics card (without tremendous pain)?

  - by N Rahl

  As we are all painfully aware, the only way to get multiple monitors AND compositing (Compiz) on Linux is to use a single graphics card that can drive both (or in my case all three) screens. I bought a Radeon 5750 specifically because it claims to able to drive 3 monitors. I can plug in 3 monitors (2 DVI, 1 HDMI) and the Catalyst Control Center shows all 3, but only 2 can be enabled at a time. The exact message is: The current settings cannot be applied. Possible issues may include: - Display(s) cannot be enabled. - Setting(s) cannot be applied due to insufficient video memory. So I'm going to assume that either the 5750 doesn't support 3 monitors, OR, more likely, ATI couldn't be bothered to add that support to their Linux drivers. So this is a multipart question: First, can anyone suggest a PCI Express Graphics card that can run 3 screens on linux without tremendous pain? I'm looking for something where you install the driver and all three screens "just work". Does such a card exist? Second, if you have a 5750, have you been able to get it to do 3 monitors? I'm running Ubuntu 10.04 at the moment.

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• Laptop does not charge old or new battery with Old and New AC adapters.

  - by Jeff

  My Sager computer has been having a strange issue with the charging. For a long time it would be working perfectly as long as I was active on it. After I'd leave idle for a while it would suddenly decide it didn't want to use AC power anymore and would just discharge the battery until it shutdown because of low battery levels. Was not a huge deal to me since I just sent it to standby when done with it and it worked fine. Recently, however, it would not detect AC power while the battery was in. It ran from the battery just fine but until you powered it down, unplugged the battery, then plugged in the AC adapter it would not be on AC. In addition if I plug the battery back in after it's on AC power, it will see it but the battery won't charge though it can still discharge it. This is OS independent. I tried both a replacement battery and a replacement AC adapter. Neither solved my issue. I'm fairly comfortable opening and servicing a laptop but I don't know where to start. I'd like to avoid replacing my system board if possible. Any Ideas?

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• How does voltage fluctuation affect a laptop

  - by user45535

  I own an Acer Aspire 3680. In the past 2 years, I have given, my laptop for service due to the same kind of problem. Last year at the same time, I gave my laptop to the service center. They repaired it and I managed to ask them this question: Why does this problem happen. How can I prevent it? They said, that due to voltage fluctuations, something has gone wrong in your laptop. They actually were hesistant in mentioning as to which part they changed/repaired. Now recently the same problem happened and again I gave it to a service center to get it repaired and they also said, this is caused due to voltage fluctuation. My Question is: Due to Voltage fluctuation which part of the laptop can get affected. How can I prevent this from happening. Laptop Symptoms before I gave to service: When I plug in the adapter for charging the Green Light blinks and the laptop doesn't turn on. Neither does the charging indicator indicates the light, while charging.

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• Why does pulling the power cord then pressing the power button fix a non-booting PC?

  - by sidewaysmilk

  I've been working at this institution for about 6 years. One thing thing that I've always found curious is that sometimes—especially after a power outage—we find a PC that won't boot when the power button is pressed. Usually, the fans will spin up, but it won't POST. Our solution is to pull the power cord, press the power button with the computer unplugged, then plug it in and turn it on. It seems more common with Gateway brand PCs than the Dells or HPs that we have around. Does anybody know what pressing the power button does when the computer is unplugged? I have some vague notion that closing the power button circuit allows some capacitors to discharge or something, but I'd like a firmer answer to offer my users when they ask me what I'm doing. My best guess as to why fans can spin but it can't POST is that the BIOS is in some non-functional state. I don't know how BIOS stores state, but my best guess is that there is some residual garbage in its registers or something, like the stack pointer isn't starting at 0 maybe?

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• How do I find the Serial Number of a USB Drive?

  - by jamuraa

  I'm trying to re-enable USB Autoplay in a secure way, by installing a program on each of the computers that I use so that I can run my launcher (PStart in this case) whenever I plug in my specific USB drive. The tool that I'm using to enable this - AutoRunGuard - needs the serial number of the USB drive that I am using. I can't figure out where to find this in Windows. Ideally I would not need to install and run a separate program to do this (seemingly) simple task. Since this is a pretty easy question, bonus points if you also tell me how to discover it in Linux as well. What steps do I need to take to retrieve a USB Drive's serial number? UPDATE: Just incase people come here looking for the answer for AutoRunGuard, I discovered that they don't want the USB device serial number, but the volume serial number. The drive serial can be found by going into the command line, navigating to the drive, and executing dir. The volume serial number is found in the top two lines - use it without the dash.

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• Expand a volume residing on one X-RAID disk installed on a Netgear ReadyNas Duo v2

  - by Sid

  I've got a Netgear ReadyNas Duo v2 (2 disk slots). System is configured with X-RAID which does not provide flexibility but automatically expands based on a sort of RAID-5 logic. I had 2 500 GB hard disk installed, redundant, so I had 500 GB of volume size. I wanted to upgrade the whole system to 3 GB * 2 hard disk maintaining both the data already on the NAS and the data on one of the two 3 TB hard disks. So I did this: Unplugged one disk from the ReadyNas. Now the readynas has 1*500 GB non redundant. Plugged one empty 3 TB hard disk. Now the readynas has 1*500 GB + 1*3 TB, redundant. I waited for the resync. I then unplugged the 500 GB hard disk, so that I have only the 3 TB hard disk with the previous data. Now what I want is to copy the data on my other 3 TB hard disk in the NAS, so that I can plug this other disk in the NAS and use it for redundancy. The problem is that: the NAS has the (single) 3 TB hard disk in X-RAID, but the volume does not expand to 3 TB, it remains fixed to 500 GB. Is there a way to tell the ReadyNas to force expanding the volume to the whole disk without plugging in another hard disk of the same size?

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• MicroSD card getting corrupted for no good reason

  - by ChaosR

  I recently bought an MicroSD card online. It's a Sandisk 16GB class 2. However, it has a nasty problem. Every time I fill it with my data, the fat tables get corrupted. I've tried reformatting it, blanking it, doesn't seem to solve the problem. I have tried windows and linux (ubuntu), both have the problem. I've used my usb microsd readers, and even tried putting it in my phone and putting data on it from there. All have this problem. Now the really odd thing is, besides the corrupted file tables, no programs can find anything wrong with the hardware. I've tried both chkdisk and "badblocks -w", neither give any type of error. Now I don't know if the actual data gets corrupted, or if its just filesystem tables. What happens is that one or more folders start showing a load of chinese-charred (random UTF8 symbols I suppose) folders and files, and it is impossible to do anything with those. All the other data (outside of the corrupted folders) seems fine. I've tried to test it, and the problem doesn't seem to show up until I fill the disk upto about 3~4GB. After that I can still access the data. But as soon as I eject/safely remove/unmount it, the bad things happen somehow. Next time I plug it in, the folders I most recently wrote to (but sometimes also the folders I wrote the time before last time to) are all gibberish. Does anybody have any clue what might be going on here?

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• Exchange 2007 Backup - For a newbie

  - by mew3900

  I am trying to setup an exchange 2007 backup solution. After doing a lot of reading, Microsoft have decided in server 2008 unless you are willing to spend a great deal on a 3rd party solution you are pretty stuck! Essentially what I have been asked to do is perform an off-line file backup of our current exchange server and replicate this onto a new 2nd server. The reasoning behind this is that we need to upgrade our current installation of exchange 2007 to SP2 so that the exchange plug-in for windows server backup will be available to us. From this I can then actually take an exchange aware backup weekly and take it off site. Ideally then also we can migrate to this new server and keep the old one as a fail over. Is there a way I can copy across the files required onto a second server, although I doubt very much it is that simple. I may be barking up completely the wrong tree, however I have very limited knowledge with Exchange and any help and advice on how I would resolve this would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance

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• Putting and configuring grub on an external drive

  - by HisDudeness

  I want to put a bunch of minor emergency operating systems (such as GParted Live, DSL, Puppy Linux and so on) on a partitioned USB pen drive, with a dedicated grub boot loader on it, which I want to start when I select the drive in the BIOS to boot. The problem is: when writing grub boot options I must tell where kernel and initial ram files are located, but the USB drive can have different letters depending on when I did plug it in, if some others external drive were mounted. So, how can I write appropriate options which automatically refer to the drive grub is installed on without having to specify absolute paths, which might change (I mean, like (hd1,msdos1) ot /dev/sdb1)? And, while we are at it, can I have grub working on a device without an operating system on it to which it can refer? I mean, I want to address the command sudo grub-install /dev/sdb from the LMDE system I'm on right now, but I won't have LMDE on my pen drive. Is that a problem? And installing grub on another device, will I keep the grub I have right now on my HDD?

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• Google Chrome on Linux not using ALSA for sound

  - by DarkMoon

  On my laptop, I've got an .asoundrc file that outputs sound to my USB headset. This works fine for SMplayer and Firefox. However, Google Chrome (at least, Flash-based and HTML5-based videos and HTML5-based audio in Chrome) plays through the laptop speakers instead. I've tried running Chrome from a command-line, hoping there would be some helpful output, but no such luck. I've tried looking through Google for whether Chrome even uses ALSA, or if it uses something else, but I have been unsuccessful in this. This question seems to be the same issue, but no suggestion was made. Anyone have any ideas? I'm running Gentoo with a 3.10.17 kernel, 1.0.27 ALSA utils, 2.6.5 FVWM, and 36.0.1985.143 Chrome. If you need more info, please let me know. EDIT: I've configured the USB headset as the default ALSA device. Volume levels for both headset and onboard are set and un-muted using alsamixer. My .asoundrc file is as follows. ctl.!default { type hw card Headset } pcm.dmixer { type dmix ipc_key 1024 slave { pcm { type hw card Headset } period_size 1024 buffer_size 4096 } bindings { 0 0 1 1 } } pcm.!default { type plug slave.pcm dmixer }

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• Debian - Problems Unmounting External Hard Drives

  - by user331981

  I recently installed Debian Testing on a new laptop and I just noticed that I am having some issues with unmounting external hard drives. I am using Mate Desktop 1.8.1. With the 1st drive, if I right click on the drive and select “safely remove”: The drive unmounts, spins down, immediately spins back up an remounts. Unable to unmount. With the 2nd drive, if I right click on the drive and select “safely remove”: The drive unmounts but does not spin down. With the 3rd drive, if I right click on the drive and select “safely remove”: The drive unmounts but does not spin down, immediately spins back up but does not remount, and after 20 seconds, it spins down and stays that way. Behavior is the same on both USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 ports. On my last laptop, on which I also used Debian Testing + Mate desktop, the safe removal of drives worked out of the box and I never had an issue with it. The drives would unmount, spin down and stay that way. To remount the drive, one needed to unplug the device and plug it back in. I am unsure how to troubleshoot this issue and I am not sure if it is merely a matter of installing a “missing” package of editing a config file. Thank you in advance.

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• Which Cardbus/PCMCIA -> USB card works with external hard drive?

  - by Carl

  I have an HT-Link Cardbus/PCMCIA USB 2.0 2-port card (NEC / 32-bit). My external hard drive w/USB adapter won't work with it, and it will work plugged directly into a USB port on a different laptop. (My USB ports got fried.) I got the card off E-Bay. My MP3 player works plugged into that card. The drivers for the card say "Known limitations: High Speed Isochronus, USB Composite Devices." (No other details provided.) I don't know if the hard drive adapter is "isochronous" or "composite." I've read there are problems with too little power being supplied to the drive. The cable to the drive has two USB plugs on one end, and it doesn't make any difference if I plug both of them into the Cardbus card. What card should I get? I see many different brands on E-Bay. I need one that supplies sufficient power for an external hard drive, and doesn't have any "known limitations" in the way.

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