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  • BT socket Device over Structured Cabling

    - by TheD
    Not sure if this is the right stack* site to post on but I believe cabling is a just subject. Essentially I have a Credit Card machine which is connected to a phone line via standard BT Socket. So basically, the port of the wall has a balun plugged in which takes the RJ45 outlet on the wall to BT, so I can plug the device in. This works fine, however I need the machine to be on the other side of the room so want to route it through my patch panel (strucutered cabling). How can this be done? So Device -- ? -- RJ45 port -- Patch Panel -- ? -- Balun out wall outlet Where ? is to be filled in ! :)

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  • Cabling: What to keep in stock?

    - by pehrs
    I have worked a few different places, each one with a different solution, so I would like to hear your suggestions and ideas. I am looking at a situation with multiple server-rooms. We have a mixture of copper (both ethernet and telephone), multi-mode fibre and single-mode fibre. We have all types of connectors: RJ-11, RJ-45, LC, SC, FC, SMA and several I probably forgot about. We have a lot of people working in the area, and keeping track of cables is turning into a full time job. So, here are a the questions: What types and lengths of cable do you keep in stock on site? Do you make your own or buy pre-made? Adapters? Dampeners? How do you manage cable inventory? How do you label the cables? Any other tricks to stop this from driving me crazy?

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  • Network cabling with multiple patch panels?

    - by dannymcc
    I am in the very early stages of planning a network cabling upgrade in our office, mainly to upgrade the old cables from Cat5 to either 5e or 6. I am also planning on upgrading all of our 10/100 switches to 10/100/1000 switches. I would like to have three small wall mounted cabinets spread around the building, each with a patch panel and switch. These would all lead back to our server room. The question is; should I have two patch panels in each wall cabinet, one with 24 or 48 ports that are connected to a matching patch panel in the server room. The second patch panel would then link to each device in that cabinets area. Then I wouldn't put a switch in the small cabinets. All switching would be done in the server room. Or, should I have one main cable from the server room to each of the cabinets - plugged straight into the switch and the patch panel is for devices in the cabinets area? I hope that makes sense!

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  • Splitting Ethernet cable

    - by Nathan
    I am looking for the best way to network my small business. I have an office where my router/modem are located, and then 2 more computers in another room. I can route Ethernet to this room with about 75 ft of cabling, and I would like to do this because my computers on Ethernet are getting 3x the speed as computers on wireless. Is there any way I can use just one Ethernet cable to span the 75 feet, and then maybe 2 smaller ones to go to the two computers from there? If there's a simple way to do this, maybe with a connector that would be ideal, as opposed to buying over 150 ft of cabling. Thanks!

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  • Anyone interested in obtaining a cable list from a visio Diagram? [closed]

    - by Alex
    it's my first post here. Just wondering if anyone had to deal with the following problem - you have to install over say a 100 network elements and servers - cabling is done via contractors, so you need to provide them with an accurate, error-free cable list - your inputs are a set of detailed, port by port, visio diagrams. Prb is to obtain the cable list and get the cabling started while you're busy crafting the switch/routers configs. I coded a Visio plugin, which I plan to release under the GNU license, that returns a cable list from a diagram, and tested it on intermediate size infrastructure, 2K+ cables. It works well. The tool needs a little work to be user friendly, so before getting started, I wanted to know if that was worth the effort. Questions are welcomed, let me know -A PS: the tool is targeted for those who need a port by port description of their network, in the form Source/slot/port/Destination/slot/port.

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  • Roughly cutting Fibre Cables

    - by Bryan
    I recently asked a question about which type of Fibre optic cable to use for my installation. We have now found a cable type and supplier and I'm about to order the cable (OM3, Tight Buffered, 12 Core), however I have a further question: We are shortly moving in to a new building (still being constructed) and we are about to get a window in which we will be able to run any cabling that we need. How should I roughly cut the fibre? Can I just use some heavy shears to cut through the cable? I'm aware that doing so will damage the ends, but will the damage be limited to the ends, or could the cracks/fractures continue up the length of the cable? p.s. I have already allowed for several metres of extra cable at each end, and I am going to get a specialist in to terminate the fibres.

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  • Is there a performance difference between Cat5 and Cat6 keystone blocks?

    - by Scott Anderson
    I'm going to be wiring my home for ethernet soon, and I've already decided that I want to use Cat6 cable to do it (faster speeds, better performance, etc). During the installation, I'd like to add wall-plates to certain rooms in my house, and the keystone blocks look like the best option for me. My question is: I've seen different keystone blocks on many cabling websites, some say Cat5e and some say Cat6. The Cat6 ones are slightly more expensive. Is there any noticeable performance gain from using a Cat6 keystone? To me, it just seems like the keystone really wouldn't matter, since it's basically like putting an RJ-45 end on a cable. Can I buy the cheaper Cat5e keystone blocks and still have the performance that Cat6 cable will give me? Thanks!

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  • Database for heat tolerances of various cables?

    - by I. F.
    Is there any kind of unified database of heat tolerances for networking cables? I've been setting up a number of home/small office networks lately and as a mostly-amateur I could really use some information on what is safe to run behind a radiator, next to a steam pipe, etc. The question I'm up against at the moment is: Can I run normal RJ11 phone line cable (from DSL modem to phone jack) behind a steam radiator without risking a fire? Unlike cat5, I could not find published standards for these, so I'm turning to experts with more experience. This is a cut-rate show. Do I go out and buy more cabling, and if so which, or use the spare that I have?

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  • Do you really need cable management for a cabinet with just switches and patch panels?

    - by ObligatoryMoniker
    We are about to start wiring out a building expansion and our vendor has laid out the racks in the following configuration: Option 1 1U Fiber patch panel 2U Cable Manager 2U 48 port Patch Panel 2U Cable Manager 2U 48 port Patch Panel 2U Cable Manager 1U 48 port Switch 2U Cable Manager 1U 48 port Switch Total = 15U All the patch panels would be connected to the switches with 1ft+ cables fed through cable management. What I am considering instead is: Option 2 1U Fiber patch panel 1U 24 port Patch Panel 1U 48 port Switch 2U 48 port Patch Panel 1U 48 port Switch 2U 48 port Patch Panel Total = 8U All of the patch panels would be connected to the switches with .5 ft cables directly on their face with the top 24 ports of each switch patched to the patch panel above it and the bottom 24 ports of each switch patched to the patch panel beneath it which would not require any cable management. If I go with option 2 it save all of the space used by cable management and allows us to keep adding on switches and patch panels at the end without having to re-cable all of the patch panels above. Our vendor has indicated that this is not best practice and that .5ft cables will introduce cross talk. I could understand that being the case if we were connecting the .5 ft cable directly into another switch but we are connecting it to a patch panel that likely has another 150 ft cable run from the back of the patch panel out to the port in the building in which case the real resulting cable is 150.5 ft at minimum before even connecting it to a PC. It seems like it makes much more sense to go with option 2. It is easier to expand, saves space, and saves money on cabling and cable management. Does this kind of configuration make sense or is there a legitimate reason to choose Option 1 over Option 2?

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  • How to test/debug bad network wiring?

    - by Jack Lloyd
    I recently bought a place already wired with Cat 5E (8 ports, leading to a central closet). However attempting to get link, nothing works. On closer examination, it was obvious that the ends in the closet were wired backwards (brown on pin 1, etc). The jacks that I've pulled out of the wall do look to be correctly done. However, testing with a network cable tester shows zero link between any of the jacks and any of the ports in the closet - I had expected to just see a 1/8, 2/7, ... 8/1 mismatch, but instead get nothing at all. The runs are accessible and look neat, though they take some bends that seem quite sharp and are in some cases much longer than they need to be (the person who put this in was a professional electrician but I suspect this was the first time he ran network cabling). My best guess at this point is that he either bought bad cable, or put so much tension on it that he snapped wires. Though it seems surprising/unlikely that I wouldn't get at least one active wire on one of the 8 lines. So, my question: is there anything else I should try or test before I go ripping out everything and running new cable?

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  • What’s the best way to label cables in a data center

    - by Ben
    We're in the midst of planning for a big data center renovation at my office, which is going to result in a completely new power and network infrastructure. As part of this, I'd like to label all of our cables properly and sanely. What are your best practices, both for labeling patch panels, cables, power whips, anything and everything in a data center that you'd label?

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  • Ethernet run tests green but won't connect

    - by Simon Gillbee
    I have a single ethernet run at home that I just added. I have a cable tester that tests for pin/pair crossover or miswired pines. The entire line tests green (all 4 LEDs light up green on the tester) but I can't get any PC to connect through the link. No link light on the ethernet connection. Any simple tests/fixes, or do I rip out the wall sockets and do it again?

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  • Ethernet run tests green but won't connect

    - by Simon Gillbee
    I have a single ethernet run at home that I just added. I have a cable tester that tests for pin/pair crossover or miswired pins. The entire line tests green (all 4 LEDs light up green on the tester) but I can't get any PC to connect through the link. No link light on the ethernet connection. Any simple tests/fixes, or do I rip out the wall sockets and do it again?

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  • 10Gbe sfp+ Cross Over Cable required? Is there such a thing?

    - by dc-patos
    To preface, this is my first experience with 10GBe networking and I have encountered an issue which research does not seem to document a solution for... I have two servers (older DL580G5 and DL380G5), each with a HP NC522SFP 10Gbe dual sfp+ port adapter. I have purchased copper "passive" direct connect adapter cables (which look like twinax), which seem to work well when I connect them to the sfp+ ports on my Dell 5524 switch. However, if I directly connect the two servers with the same cable, the link doesn't come up. I am running WS2012 standard on each server. My intention is to use one of these servers as a home brew SAN and I would like to enable mutiple 10Gbe paths for iSCSI traffic. My question(s): Can I connect the two adapters to each other, such as I would with other less speedy generations of ethernet? If I can, do I require a crossover cable, or some type of other sfp+ cable solution to do this? My 10Gbe sfp+ switch ports are premium, but server to server connections are doable in small numbers for me and I would really like the multiple paths this would give me. Is there a simple solution?

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  • Moving server room to another part of the building

    - by PHLiGHT
    This question is a bit different than the typical we are moving our server room to an off site location or we are moving the whole office to a new building. Management wants to add some more office space and to do so they want to move the server room to another location. The server room has Verizon smart jacks, a few servers, PBX and all the office network drops go into this room. I'm going to go over there to scout out an alternate location for the equipment because that is still TBD. This sounds like quite a pain since the Verizon equipment for our MPLS will need to be moved (never done that) and the office jacks will need to be re-run. How do you handle the jacks? I was thinking of keeping them in the same location and having new wall plates put in with half the ports going to the current location and the other half to the new location. Or do you think that 40 drops could just be done over the weekend so the old stuff would be ripped out and replaced with the new? Currently the wiring is a mess so this could be a blessing in the long run.

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  • Creating a network link between 2 very close buildings

    - by Daniel Johnson
    I have a charity who have two adjacent medium sized modern detached houses (in the UK): the buildings stand next to each other and are less than 5 metres apart. They have DSL connected to a single computer in one of the buildings. They want to add a network with wireless, and want it to work across both buildings. Being a charity they need to keep costs down. The network would be used for sharing Word documents, e-mail, browsing and skyping. My initial thoughts were to connect the buildings with fibre. So: Option 1 Use fibre between the buildings. Sufficient cable and two TP-LINK MC100CM Fast Ethernet Media Converters. Cost ~£80.00. But there is the extra cost and hassle of running the cable down and up the external walls, lifting and relaying paving, and burying underground. Never having fitted fibre I'm also a little worried about going up the wall and then bending the cable at 90 degrees to go through the wall and into the building. Option 2 Use two TP-Link TL-WA7510N High Powered Outdoor 5Ghz 15dBi Wireless antennas to connect the buildings. There is a clear line of sight at first floor level. Cost ~£100. And much easier to fit than fibre! Is using the TL-WA7510Ns overkill? Is there something more suitable? I had hoped to use some Netgear stuff, e.g. two DGN2200, one in each house and also use them to provide the wireless link between the buildings. However, in bridge mode wireless client association is not available and repeater mode with client association only supports WEP security which isn't strong enough. Is there something similar that would be up to the job? Option 3 Connect the buildings with UTP cable. My concerns here are risk of electric shock due to a difference of potential between the buildings (or are they so close this shouldn't be an issue) and protection from lightning strikes. Is fitting lighting arrestors expensive? And what can be done to ameliorate against the risk of shock? This all falls outside my area of expertise so I would really appreciate some advice.

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  • Can I use CAT 6a connectors with 7a cable (and get 6a performance)?

    - by Mr. Flibble
    I'm re-wiring a building and want to get the best cable possible laid - it required re-plastering to make a change to the cables and the cables will be there for the next 10 - 20 years. Currently there appears to be cat 7a cable available but not too much in the way of cat 7a connectors. Also - I won't be using 40Gig hardware in the near future. So, my question: is it possible to use cat 6a connectors / patch panels with cat 7a cable and get the same performance as I would had I used cat 6a cable? Are there any gotchas in trying to do this?

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  • I've inherited a rat's nest of cabling. What now?

    - by hydroparadise
    You know, you see pictures like below and sort of chuckle until you actually have to deal with it. I have just inherited something that looks like the picture below. The culture of the organization does not tolerate down time very well, yet I have been tasked to 'clean it up'. The network functions as it is, and there doesn't seem to be rush to get it done, but I will have to tackle the bear at some point. I get the ugly eye when I mention anything about weekends. So my question goes, is there sort of a structured approach to this problem? My Ideas thus far: Label, Label, Label Make up my patch cables of desired length ahead of time Do each subnet at a time (appears that each subnet are for different physical locations) Replace one cable at a time for each subnet It's easier to get forgiveness than permision?

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  • "Modern" Ethernet over coax

    - by Electrons_Ahoy
    So, I've just bought a house. It's reasonably new - built in the early '00s. One of the features that got built in was a cable TV drop in every room. The cabling is gorgeous - there's even a wiring cabinet of sorts in a closet where the cables all tie together to the splitter to the outside line. Of course, my problem is that I only own the one TV. I do, however, own a few computers. What I would love to be able to do is drop a switch in the wiring closet and run 100/1000BASE-T ethernet over the coax in the walls I wouldn't otherwise be using. My fantasy would be if you could get some kind of adapter-plug-thing that would take a coax plug on one side and a cat5/RJ45 plug on the other. Had anyone else done this? Any suggestions? (There are a few other options that suggest themselves - first, I could just use the existing cabling channels and re-run cat5 or 6 through the walls. While tempting, that sounds like more work than I really want to put in, so I'm calling that Plan B. Also, I could just scare up a mess of old 10BASE2 cards and run the house on thinnet, all mid-90s style. While I think I'd get major style points for that, I don't think I can get a 10BASE2 adapter for the new laptop. Also, I have all these super-snazzy gigabit adaptors I'd like to be using. And so forth.)

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  • Does ArchLinux running on PogoPlug boxes support Tenda W311MI Wireless N Pico Adapter?

    - by MauricioOtta
    I've did my homework and since cabling is an issue, I'm planning on going wireless. Can anyone confirm these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833555011 work on Linux? I've found this page http://www.wikidevi.com/wiki/Tenda_W311MI and found that Ralink rt27xx/rt28xx/rt30xx (USB) support in the kernel supports RT2770, RT2870 & RT3070, RT3071 & RT3072. So I'm buying this and reporting back after I receive them

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  • Multiple access points for the same SSID ?

    - by krosenvold
    I need to upgrade my existing wireless infrastructure and this time I want 2 access points to cover my house, since I get blind spots no matter what with a single AP, I have physical cabling to my central network available for both access points. But I would really like these two to interoperate seamlessly as a single SSID. How do I do this and what are the features the new AP's I'm buying need to support ? (Product recommendations are welcome ;)

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  • How to connect InfoWindow II to 9406-250 console?

    - by Yvan JANSSENS
    How do I connect an InfoWindow II to the 9406-250 console? I recieved an old InfoWindow II (don't know the exact model number yet) from somebody, and want to connect to the console so I can do a manual IPL. I am totaly new to this, and I am still learning how to use everything. Here's the back of the 9406-250 with available connections: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/15854305/connectors.JPG What cabling do I need, and where can I order it?

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