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• Computer randomly freezes when playing games

  - by TutorialPoint

  My computer just randomly freezes when playing certain games. It has happened to me in Battlefield: Bad Company 2, Call of Duty 4, and Blacklight: Retribution. It has not happened to me with other games like Tribes: Ascend yet, which leads me to believe it is a software-side issue related to maybe DirectX or PhysX? Also, temperatures seem stable. I used RivaTuner combined with MSI Afterburner, and at the time of freezing with BF:BC2, it gives: 62C, 67% GPU usage and 78.8FPS. During the session the max I have seen was 65C and 97% GPU usage. On Blacklight: Retribution, I've heard other people complain about the problem too. This is why it is such a mystery to me, is this actually a driver problem, or more a game problem? I've been able to play these games for long until I re-installed Windows 7 (because it was growing too full and slow). Before I had a 32bit Ultimate version, and now 64bit. Specs: O/S: Windows 7 64bit Ultimate CPU: Intel i5-750 @ Default 2.66 GHz GPU: ASUS EAH5770 1GB PSU: CoolerMaster Real Power M520 (520W) MB: Gigabyte P55M-UD2 Catalyst Control Center version (in "About"): 2012.0214.2218.39913

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• I must clear my cmos to be able to boot

  - by Fredou

  I have this Asus p7p55d-e pro for about 8 months(got it last July) and for this last 3-4 days I cannot boot without clearing my CMOS what I have is: Seasonic M12D 750W ASUS P7P55D-E Pro Intel Core i5 760 Quad Core Processor Lynnfield LGA1156 XFX GeForce® 8800 GT Alpha Dog 512MB DDR3 Standard (PV-T88P-YDF4) 2x Corsair XMS3 CMX4GX3M2A1600C7 4GB DDR3 2X2GB DDR3-1600 CL 7-8-7-20 I tried to remove all the unnecessary stuff: HD/dvd/pci card/usb cable/etc I tried with only 1 dimm filled, instead of my 4, each one individually it didn't work I tried changing the battery, here goes a few dollars to nowhere, didn't work if I don't reset the CMOS it sometime stock on RAM led, sometime on BOOT DEVICE led, when this happen, it stuck on CPU speed detection when I boot right after the reset, i MUST click on the F2 option (boot with default bios setting) if i go into the bios and save/restart, i have to reset it again when booted, everything is rock solid stable, tried memtest, cpu stress, etc, etc. without issue what should be my next step? trying a new psu? (i need to find one..) doing rma? (i need this mb since it's my only computer...) something else?

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• Mainboard shuts itself off after half a second or so

  - by heishe

  Here's the problem: When I start the PC, the mainboard powers up, then stays that way maybe 0.2-0.5 seconds, and then shuts off again. I say mainboard, and not PC, because I removed all the parts from the system and disconnected everything but the mainboard power supply (the broad 12 pin thingy). When I have the other parts (cpu, graphics card, ram, etc.) installed and connected, the basic behaviour stays the same, but now the mainboard runs for about 6 or 7 seconds (this is a guess) before shutting off. This all started when my monitor wouldn't receive a video signal today, without giving POSTs, so I took the graphics card and the RAM out to see if it changes anything. It didn't, except that from that point on the mainboard would start to have this behavior where it just stays on for a very short time and then shuts off again. I already tested it with a backup PSU - same behavior. What could this be? I'm thinking it can't be on a physical level (transistors burned through or something like that), since then the mainboard either shouldn't start at all or it should detect hardware failures in non-essential parts of the syste and start beeping. Sorry, I forgot to mention. It's an MSI P67A-C43. I already checked the capacitors if someone popped, but I can't find anything. I also tried resetting the cmos, but that didn't change anything.

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• Blue screen issue

  - by Jack

  I received several BSOD's that are recorded in the following logs: Problem signature: Problem Event Name: BlueScreen OS Version: 6.1.7601.2.1.0.256.48 Locale ID: 3081 Additional information about the problem: BCCode: 50 BCP1: FFFFF95FF8150C10 BCP2: 0000000000000008 BCP3: FFFFF95FF8150C10 BCP4: 0000000000000005 OS Version: 6_1_7601 Service Pack: 1_0 Product: 256_1 Files that help describe the problem: C:\Windows\Minidump\040412-20030-01.dmp C:\Users\Jack\AppData\Local\Temp\WER-33025-0.sysdata.xml ~~~~~ Problem signature: Problem Event Name: BlueScreen OS Version: 6.1.7601.2.1.0.256.48 Locale ID: 3081 Additional information about the problem: BCCode: 1e BCP1: 0000000000000000 BCP2: 0000000000000000 BCP3: 0000000000000000 BCP4: 0000000000000000 OS Version: 6_1_7601 Service Pack: 1_0 Product: 256_1 Files that help describe the problem: C:\Windows\Minidump\040412-32729-01.dmp C:\Users\Jack\AppData\Local\Temp\WER-64319-0.sysdata.xml It seems to occur at random. I have gone 2 months without a BSOD, then I have gone a week with 10+ without changing what I am doing. This is my system: Windows 7 Professional 64-bit Gigabyte GA-890GPA-UD3H AMD Phenom II x6 1090T Processor 3.2GHz 8GB Ram(4X 2GB) Radeon HD 7850 2TB HDD Thermaltake 500W PSU I'm not sure about what the BSOD says, it just counts to 100 by 5's then restarts the computer. It happens fast and I have tried to get a picture before but to no avail.

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• SSD cache to minimize HDD spin-up time?

  - by sirprize

  short version first: I'm looking for Linux compatible software which is able to transparently cache HDD writes using an SSD. However, I only want to spin up the HDD once or twice a day (to write the cached data to the HDD). The rest of the time, the HDD should not be spinning due to noise concerns. Now the longer version: I have built a completely silent computer running Xubuntu. It has a A10-6700T APU, huge fanless cooler, fanless PSU, SSD. The problem is: it also has (and needs) a noisy HDD and I want to forbid spinning it up during the night. All writes should be cached on the SSD, reads are not needed in the night. Throughout every day, this computer will automatically download about 5 GB of data which will be retained for about a year, giving a total needed disk capacity of slightly less than 2 TB. This data is currently stored on a 3 TB noisy hard disk drive which is spinning day and night. Sometimes, I'll need to access some data from several months ago. However, most times I'll only need data from the last 14 days, which would fit on the SSD. Ideally, I'd like a transparent solution (all data on one filesystem) which caches all writes to the SSD, writing to the HDD only once a day. Reads would be served by the cache if they were still on the SDD, else the HDD would have to spin up. I have tried bcache without much success (using cache_mode=writeback, writeback_running=0, writeback_delay=86400, sequential_cutoff=0, congested_write_threshold_us=0 - anything missing?) and I read about ZFS ZIL/L2ARC but I'm not sure I can achieve my goal with ZFS. Any pointers? If all else fails, I will simply use some scripts to automatically copy files over to the big drive while deleting the oldest files from the SSD.

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• Analyze a BSOD (irql_less_than_or_equal)

  - by Bruno Reis

  Hello. About 2 months ago I bought a new system and built it at home: Mother board: XFX X58i Processor: Core i7 920, using the stock cooler Memory: 3x2GB Corsair DDR3 1600 Video card: NVIDIA GTS 250 (1GB) Hard disk: 2x WD 500GB, 7200rpm I have 2 screens plugged into the video card, and the system is connected to a 550W PSU. Nothing is overclocked. After building the system, I stressed it a lot with Prime95 and rthdribl to check its stability. All my tests were perfect. So I reinstalled Win 7 x64 Professional and started using it normally. The first week (2010-03-15) I got the infamous irql_less_than_or_equal BSOD. Ten days after (2010-03-24) I got another one. Then on 2010-04-09, 2010-05-04. Since 2 days ago it became worse: I got one bluescreen per day! (2010-05-12, 2010-05-13, 2010-05-14). I installed BlueScreenView to try to obtain some information, but I'm not able to extract any useful information apart from the bug check string (irql_less_than_or_equal), and that it was caused by ntoskrnl.exe (the first three at ntoskrnl.exe+71f00, the last 4 at ntoskrnl.exe+70600 -- which I suspect could be the same thing, as Microsoft could have patched this file in the mean time, so the address of the function causing it changed). Then I stressed my memory sticks with memtest, they worked perfectly. After booting, I've stressed my GPU with FurMark and RTHDRIBL, everything was fine. Then I stressed the CPU with 4 instances of Prime95 while monitoring the temperature -- that never exceeded 85oC with the case closed --, everything fine. Finally I've stressed the whole system with HeavyLoad for a looooong time, everything worked just fine. So, I have stressed most of the components of the system, but couldn't get any useful information from it. Do you have any hint on what else can I do to find the culprit? Thanks Bruno

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• Reduce power consumption of gaming computer while idle

  - by White Phoenix

  This is my current build: EVGA X58 (first generation) motherboard Intel i7 965 clocked @ 3.3 Ghz 3x DDR3-1600 Corsair RAM at stock timings and voltages Corsair AX750 80 Plus Gold PSU 1 Optical Drive 1 Seagate 7200.10 500 GB drive 2x Western Digital Caviar Black 1 TB drives OCZ Vertex 1 60 GB EVGA GTX 460 oc'd at 800/1600/1850 Antec 1200 case HT-Omega Striker 7.1 Sound Card Windows 7 32-bit Professional (PAE Enabled) I've already seen this post Reduce power use on computer and this post How do I lower power consumption of my computer and while useful, I'm looking for answers specific to my build and OS. I'm pretty sure this build is a energy-intensive build by default, but I want to try to reduce the amount of energy my build uses when I leave it idle (when I go to bed or go out, etc). The first requirement for this machine is that I need to leave it on, so I cannot turn it off while it's being unused. I run it as a file server for personal reasons and I also leave it on in case people leave me messages on various IM services and chat clients (IRC, MSN, Steam, XFire, Pidgin, etc). I'm also unable to replace the parts in my computer with a cheaper "greener" part. What are some ways to minimize the amount of power the machine uses? I'm already using a high efficiency power supply (80 Plus Gold), but I imagine there's other things that can be done in the BIOS and Windows' power settings to reduce power usage while I'm not using the computer. From what I can tell, I can't use Sleep since that'll disable network access (whole reason why I leave the computer on in the first place). I already turn off my monitor when it's not in use. I enabled Intel SpeedStep within the BIOS (I know, I have a 965 and why am I enabling SpeedStep?) Should I bring the graphics card back to stock speeds and lower the clock on the processor even more? Main reason why I'm asking is I think this computer alone is the reason why my power bill is high, so I want to reduce its consumption to as low as possible without having to shut the thing down.

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• Minimum specs needed to run 1080p HD movies?

  - by Wesley

  Hi all, I was wondering how low you could go with hardware that would still be able to smoothly run HD movies. My current plan is around $215 CAD w/o a hard drive: Intel Pentium 4 @ 3.2 GHz - 1GB DDR/SDRAM - 512MB X1600 Pro AGP - 350W PSU - ECS P4VXASD2+ - Bluray/DVD-RW drive. As for the hard drive, could I just get a 7200RPM IDE HDD? Also, I'm planning on installing XP Pro SP3, unless Ubuntu somehow has an advantage. I'm not wanting this to be a media center only computer... just want it to be a normal computer with just enough oomph to play HD movies. Thanks in advance. EDIT1: Forgot to mention that the Bluray/DVD-RW drive is SATA, but I was planning on getting an SATA-IDE adapter or a PCI card with SATA. EDIT2: Oh yes... if I get a PCI card with SATA, would you then recommend I use an SATA hard drive as well? That would leave all the IDE ports on the motherboard unused... is that a good idea?

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• Computer resetting semi-randomly

  - by Peter

  Hi, I'm having a problem with my desktop whereby it sometimes resets itself semi-randomly. For example, I'll switch it on, it'll boot an OS and shortly after getting to the desktop it will immediately reset with no warning. The time isn't consistent - sometimes it does it before reaching login. I'm pretty sure it's not an OS thing; have tried Ubuntu and a Windows install and both exhibit it. It also doesn't appear to be heat-related because sometimes it appears to be able to "get past" it and will then run stably even under load; if anything it seems to be worse from a cold start. My gut feeling is some kind of power issue but I'm clutching at straws a little. Any suggestions on how I could go about testing it or trying to narrow the problem down would be appreciated. The machine is four years old now so while I can replace components if needed, it's not worth enough that I'm comfortable buying new parts without being pretty confident that they'll fix the problem. Thanks in advance for any help :) Edit: Okay, the motherboard is a MSI K8N SLI; CPU is an Athlon64 X2 4200+. Has one video card, a GeForce 7800GT. 1GB RAM, not sure of brand; 3 hard drives, two SATA and one PATA. Flashed motherboard to latest BIOS some time ago. Edit the Second: I thought I'd narrowed it down to the PSU for a while, but then it recurred again. I ended up pulling everything out but CPU, RAM and motherboard and it still seems to be stuffed (if anything, it's gotten worse in the last couple of days). I assume it's one of those three components, but the machine is old enough that I don't really want to spend money replacing any of them. So thanks for everyone's suggestions; much appreciated!

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• Sony PMB causing failure to load Windows 7 Pro 64-bit normally or even Safe Mode

  - by Wesley

  After installing Sony's Picture Motion Browser on my desktop with Windows 7 Pro x64, it always goes to Startup Repair due to Windows 7 failing to start. This always happens after I try to install it. I've installed with all unnecessary programs closed and all disk drives and unnecessary usb ports empty. I don't exactly know what is causing the problem. Any ideas? My desktop is an HP m8530f. http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01469325&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&product=3740333&lang=en Only upgrades are an HD4350 and a 500W PSU. EDIT: Windows 7 cannot start now. I'm currently running diagnostic tests from the BIOS. EDIT: Here are the problem details. Problem Signature: Problem Event Name: StartupRepairOffline Problem Signature 01: 6.1.7600.16385 Problem Signature 02: 6.1.7600.16385 Problem Signature 03: unknown Problem Signature 04: 21201022 Problem Signature 05: AutoFailover Problem Signature 06: 8 Problem Signature 07: CorruptFile OS Version: 6.1.7600.2.0.0.256.1 Local ID: 1033 CONCLUSION: So, I think Sony PMB may have caused some sort of corruption in the system files. So if you have Windows 7 and plan on installing Sony PMB, find a Vista or XP machine to install on.

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• Memory modules not running at rated speeds.

  - by Wesley

  Hi all, I'm having some odd memory issues with my build. Here are my specs right now: QDI Superb 4 motherboard Intel Pentium 4 Northwood 2.4GHz (512KB L2, 533MHz FSB) 3x 256MB PC2100 DDR266 RAM 16MB NVIDIA TNT2 Pro AGP Seagate 80GB IDE HDD Generic USB 2.0 PCI Generic Modem PCI Bestec 250W PSU To be even more specific, here are the current brands and models of each module: Kingston KVR266X64C25/256 Samsung PC2100U-25331-Z SMART SM5643285D4N0CHM0H Supposedly, they are all PC2100 266MHz modules with a latency of 2.5. Looking in Speccy, the Kingston module is somehow running at a speed of PC2300 ~284MHz. I've never overclocked RAM at all as I don't know how to. However, when I first started the computer, I had the SMART module in place first and then reset the BIOS settings, including the integrated overclocking options. However, this still doesn't explain why the Kingston module runs at a higher speed than the SMART and Samsung module. Why is it like this? On a side note, where could I find the motherboard manual for the QDI Superb 4? Thanks in advance.

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• Desktop PC does not power up on power button

  - by hIpPy

  When I press the power button on my desktop, it does not power up completely. Before I press the power button, I see lights on the motherboard. Everything is normal. On power button press, the fans on the cpu, graphics card and motherboard start to spin a little for a second or two and then they stop. No beeps during this process. It has been doing this for a while now but it used to start up after some trials. Once it starts up, I have NO issues at all like random shutdowns so it is not an issue with OS. I'm just guessing here but it seems as if the PSU (Antec TP2-550ATX) is dying out and does not have enough power now - just a guess. It's an old desktop assembled in 2005 but I have maintained it well. Any ideas? Please help. Thanks. Below is the complete configuration. DFI LAN-Party UT NF4 Ultra-D 6/23 {6.70}, Evercool EC-VC-RE 41/47C, AMD Opteron 170 2.0GHz {1.3.2.16} 1.312V 36/41C, ThermalRight SI-120, Panaflo 120×38mm OCZ Platinum 2×1GB 200MHz 2.66V 3-3-2-7 1T XFX 7800GTX 256MB 475/1250MHz {91.31}, Zalman VF900 Cu led 41/56C WD Caviar 320GB 7200RPM 16MB SATA 3Gb/s Antec TP2-550ATX Antec P180 WinXP sp2 KB896256 Logitech MX310 Razer Mantis Speed BenQ FP91G+ 19" LCD 8ms DVI Creative Audigy2 ZS {4.42} BenQ DW1640 Logitech z-5300e 5.1 280W Legend: Driver versions: {} User settings: [] Voltage: V Wattage: W Temperature: C (Celsius) min/max

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• Motherboard running rather hot while gaming

  - by I take Drukqs

  Case: Antec 1200 Mobo: Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R CPU: Intel i7 950 (stock cooler) GPU: EVGA GeForce 570 GTX RAM: 2x 2 GB (4 GB total) DDR3 dual-channel Corsair OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit This is my first build and it's brand new. I had no problems putting it all together in a few hours one evening and I consider myself to be pretty good with computers. Not to brag or anything like that! Just saying I've been fiddling with them since I was in diapers and I have a good amount of experience under my belt, just not with certain things yet. Recently while playing many of the latest games maxed out without a hitch my motherboard has been running hot and like anyone who's ever built a computer it scares the life out of me. I checked HWMonitor and saw that my motherboard sometimes reached temperatures of around 52 - 78c (the number 78 obviously being what's scaring me). I was wondering if such a temperature is normal and if not what the problem could be. Air flow in my case is phenomenal and besides having to ship back a faulty GPU and reseat my CPU my first build has been a very large success which I am enjoying tremendously. There is literally almost no dust in my case due to it being very new as previously mentioned and my RAM sticks are in the correct slots for dual-channel mode. My cable management is pretty great in my opinion with only cables from my PSU lingering in the bottom of the case. At any given opportunity I ran my cables behind my mobo. Air flow should definitely not be a problem because my CPU only goes up to about 60c and my GPU only goes up to about 80c. Thank you very much in advance.

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• How to set up RAID-0 first time on new PC?

  - by jasondavis

  I have built basic PC's in the past but have never used a RAID array at all. SO now I am buying parts to build my new PC, it will be an intel i7 processor. My motherboard will have RAID support which I will use instead of an aftermarket raid controller for now. Also I plan to use 2 SSD drives in RAID-0 for my windows 7 OS. (Please note that I am aware of the issues with doing this, including lack of TRIM support when using RAID with SSD drives. I am OK with it not working as I can just re[place the drives in a year or so or wheneer they become more sluggish). SO here is my question part. If I assemble the motherboard, PSU, processor, RAM, vidm card, etc and then go to turn the PC on, it will have the 2 SSD drives hooked up. so I assume I will then soon the BIOS screen before I install windows? How to I go about making the 2 drives work in RAID-0 at this point? I do the raid part before installing my OS right? Please help with the steps involved from assembling the parts of the PC and then turning it on, to the part of getting the RAID-0 set up between the 2 drives and then installing my windows 7 OS from a Optical drive? Please help, all advice, instructions, tips appreciated as long as on topic. I do not need to be told that this is a bad idea as far as if 1 drive fails I losse it all, I plan on having a disk IMAGE to be able to restore my OS and software to a new set of drives at anytime needed in the event of drive failure. Same goes for lack of TRIM support. Thanks for reading and help =)

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• Is this processor burned?

  - by Jhonnytunes

  I've recently exchange the processors in two PCChips boards. Both boards are LGA775. Board A is P17G(Pentium 4 HyperThreading 3GHz) and board B is P49G(Pentium Dual Core 3GHz). I use board A to watch videos, and some of them are 3GB size and this is why I exchanged the CPU. I installed Dual Core in board A and it worked out of the box, now 3GB videos use 5% of CPU instead of 50%. When I installed the pentium in the board B, I forgot to connect the 4pin power and, when i powered on the PC, the CPU fan stay off. Then, I connected all right this time, and now the board doesnt show video. I think the CPU is not working but im not sure about that. The PC turns on and the HD spins, the CPU fan spins, network socket blinking, but not video and case power led is neither blinking. I tried with other PSU and everything was the same. I figure out that CPU have that paste above. IDK really what's happening, I hope I dont have to buy another CPU. Is it Burned?

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• AGP 4x slot running at 2x

  - by Wesley

  Hi all, Here are the specs of the machine related to this question: AMD Athlon XP 2400+ @ 2 GHz / 2x 512MB PC3200 DDR RAM / 3D Fuzion 128MB GeForce 6200 AGP / WD 160GB IDE HDD / FIC AM37 (mobo) / Codegen 350W PSU / Windows XP Pro SP3 So, for some odd reason, the GeForce 6200 that is in the AGP 4x slot is not running at 4x, but 2x. The card itself supports AGP 4x and even 8x. When I enter the BIOS, the options for the AGP slot only allow 2x as the max. Before, the max option for the AGP slot in the BIOS was 4x. (I do get the 4x option after I reset CMOS, but it does not stick after a restart.) I don't exactly know what the problem could be, but a few weeks ago, this machine's hard drive was reformatted and got a fresh install of XP. Also, I did install Rivatuner, but I never overclocked it at all. (I uninstalled it after thinking that it had done something.) Otherwise, I cannot figure out the cause of the problem. Does anybody have an idea why this is happening? (Would I have to do another reformat?) Thanks in advance. PS: the other options for the AGP slot are aperture size (which I tried changing, but it did nothing) and FastWrite (enabled by default).

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• Windows 7 Won't Boot

  - by Vie

  I recently built a new computer, my fifth one. ASUS Maximus III Formula LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Motherboard EVGA 01G-P3-1452-TR GeForce GTS 450 Superclocked 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Video Card COOLMAX RM-1000B 1000W ATX psu Intel Core i7-875K lynnfield 2.93GHz LGA 1156 95w Quad-Core unlocked processor G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 16 (4x4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) memory WD VelociRaptor WD3000GLFS 300gb 10000 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive Sony Optiarc CD/DVD Burner model AD-7261S-0B LightScribe Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit It gets hung up on the starting windows screen. When I went to install the OS it did the same thing wouldn't go past the windows logo, so I put the new HDD into my old computer and installed windows 7 thinking it was just an installer error. Put the fully installed HDD back into my new machine and it still gets stuck on the starting windows screen. I've tried most everything I've looked up. Disabled USB, Disabled Turbo Boost, Disabled everything that wasn't essential(just about every configuration I can think of), took it apart and put it back together, took all the ram out save one 4g stick(wouldn't even boot when I did this), did a memory scan which came back successful, I don't know what could be wrong. Only thing I can think of is a compatibility issue somewhere, but I've ran over it again and again and I don't know where there would be an issue like that. Need Backup! .<

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• Computer sending data while turned off

  - by Nicklas Ansman

  I have a some what strange problem (which could have and easy and obvious solution for all I know). My problem is that when I've booted ubuntu (now 10.4 but same problem with 9.10) and turns it off it starts sending a HUGE amount of data via the ethernet cable, so much in fact that my router can't handle it and stops responding. As far as I can tell the computer is completely turned off with no fans spinning. I can add that if I boot windows I do not have this problem, just when exiting ubuntu. There are two "fixes" for my problem: Pull the ethernet cable until the next boot Turn off power to the PSU and wait for the capacitors to unload Is there anyone who knows what could be going on? I'd be happy to post some logs or conf-files. Currently I'm using the ethernet port on my motherboard which is a Asus P6T Deluxe V2 with an updated version of the BIOS (maybe not the latest but since it only happens when I've been in ubuntu I don't wanna mess with the BIOS too much). Regards Nicklas ---------Update 1---------- The router is a D-Link DIR 655 with the latest firmware. ---------Update 2---------- I've now reinstalled ubuntu (with 10.4) and I still experience the same problem.

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• UPS power requirements for server

  - by captainentropy

  Greetings! So, I just placed an order for a new server. The company recommended that I get a 3000W UPS. (!) As best as I could I calculated the following wattage consumption based on benchmarked data or datasheets provided by the manufacturers of each component: number watts **total watts** MoBo 1 240 240 CPUs (E5540) 2 80 160 RAID cards (3ware) 2 18 36 RAM (6x4GB) 6 3 18 DVD drive 1 7 7 floppy 1 2 2 RE4 drives 8 7 56 WD20 drives 8 6 48 Intel X25 SSD 2 0.15 0.3 total = 567 So that is for the PSU requirements only. The PSUs in the machine are a 720W for the master node and 800W each for two subsystems. That's a total of 2320W that can be delivered by these PSUs. But that is 4X the amount being consumed, at most, by the components. I didn't count case fans or the eSATA card (3W maybe?) or what the PSUs themselves require but assuming I double or triple my calculations I'm not even remotely close to the 3000W UPS I was suggested to get. They run at least $1100. I could get a 2000W for about $750 or a 1500W for $450 and still be well over my estimated power need. I don't think I need a whole lot of run time in the case of a power outage, maybe 20 minutes max, enough time to shutdown if the power doesn't come on within 5-10 minutes. Any thoughts? Am I off on my calculations? Did I overlook something major? If so what are your suggestions for a UPS? Thanks!

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• New to building computers worried about temps

  - by dave

  I'm new to building my own computers and I was wondering about maximum temperatures. I understand that the room temp can affect the computers temp but how relevent is it? I understand that if my room temp is 20°C none of my computer parts could be lower than that. But if my room is 27°C instead of 20°C would this cause my computers parts to heat up more/faster? My new computer I built myself for gaming is i7 2600k 16gb ram ddr3 1600 hd6970 2 gb 240gb ssd ( bought a nas with 3 2tb drives in raid 5 for my home network ) 850w modular psu I also have my old hp computer i3 2120 8gb ram hd6770 1tb hdd I also have 3 laptops in my household, but I am not worried about their temps, they heat up my legs but they are never under stress. Due to size and money reasons I used an old case and it only has one of the sides left on it. Is this bad for the computer and will the extra dust cause problems? Or should I leave it this way or take the missus wrath and buy a case? If so is there any certain case I should get? I don't care about looks I just want card reader and usb slots and for it to run as cool or cooler than now, my case has 1 fan. Also what are the max temps for my new and old computer parts? Is 40°C under load ok for my CPU, what about 70°C for my GPU is that ok too, or should I worry? What are normal and safe temps for my components? I have looked around but there seem to be lots of different answers. I know that 100°C is bad but I want my parts to last as long as possible and this site always seems to give good replies without arguing or flaming.

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• Computer always freezing after random periods of time. No errors listed.

  - by Wesley

  Hi, all. Here are my specs beforehand: AMD Athlon XP 2400+ @ 2.00 GHz, 160GB IDE HDD, 128MB GeForce 6200 AGP, 2 x 512MB PC3200 DDR RAM, CoolMax 350W PSU, 1 x CD-RW Drive, 1 x DVD-ROM Drive, FIC AM37 Mobo, Windows XP Pro SP3 My desktop freezes after random periods of time but there are no errors listed in the Event Viewer after a forced shutdown and restart. A couple months ago, I found that when it froze, the floppy was being accessed at the same time. So, I disconnected the floppy (since I never used it anyways) from the power supply and motherboard. Everything was working fine and the computer never froze. This past Christmas break, I left for a Conference and when I got home, the computer kept freezing again. So, this time, I just disconnected the DVD reader (from mobo and power) and started it up. Still, it froze almost right away. Then I found some older sticks of RAM (2 x 256MB PC2100 DDR) and swapped them in. Everything worked fine again after that. I even swapped the 2 x 512MB PC3200 DDR RAM back in and everything worked okay. Then it started freezing again, and I tried all possible RAM combos, still freezing within 5-10 minutes of startup. One thing I've realized is that the floppy drive is still listed in My Computer and I uninstalled it from my Device Manager already. There were no software errors, and I uninstalled the most recent software, with no effect. Still, I have no idea what is wrong because everything ran fine before that. Any suggestions? EDIT: Still have yet to buy some blank CD media to use Memtest86+. However, would a lack of virtual memory cause the computer to freeze? EDIT2: So after a long time, I ran Memtest86+ and all is well. Turns out though, after removing my original DVD reader and replacing it with a DVD-ROM drive, there is no freezing whatsoever! Thanks for all your suggestions!

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• Dell PowerEdge 860 won't boot but gets power

  - by fierflash

  I have a Dell PowerEdge 860. Got an 2008 R2 running on it. Here is the scenario I'm currently in: I can boot it up and work as usuall. But when I restart it, it just shuts down, doesn't reboot, and it won't boot up again. Then it stays in this "mode", On/off button blinking green(standby mode?) and System Indicator LED blinking amber. If I try to press the On/Off button on the frontpanel it won't boot. It's like you can hear the fan from the PSU running but nothing else is trying to boot. If I unplug the powercable and then put it back in again it's the same, the extremley noisy fans won't start and it's just sitting there. If I let it "rest" for like 1 to 24 hours while the powercable is unplugged and I plug it in again, it boots directly, without me having to push the On/Off button. What I have tried: Run diagnostics(not the one in POST phase) and everything is fine Booting without any cables except the powercable Boot without memory installed Boot without the raidcable plugged in Cleared NVRAM Reseated all the components and cables Googling like a freak for any possible solution Tried Dell Support but I don't have any warranty left so they can't help me unless i pay some ridiculous amount of money I suppos Do anyone have some experience with the same issue? Do I need to replace something or is there any other way to determine the problem? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

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• Hard Drive Compatibility with Motherboard

  - by Wesley

  Here are the current specs to put things in context: ECS P4VXASD2+ V5.0 Intel Pentium 4 Northwood 2.8 GHz 2x 512MB PC2100 DDR266 SDRAM Maxtor DiamondMax 10 250 GB PATA (IDE) HDD Gigabyte 52x CD-ROM NVIDIA TNT2 Pro 16 MB OKIA 300W ATX PSU USB bracket Modem PCI Before, I actually had a 300 GB hard drive installed. However, I read the FAQ for the motherboard and discovered that a maximum of 250 GB hard drive was supported. So I ended up finding the one listed above and put that in. However, upon booting up, I reset the BIOS to defaults and auto-detected all the drives installed. The 250 GB came up as something like 251.0 GB. I didn't think much about it until I tried to boot up a Windows XP installation disc. It booted up successfully and run for about a minute before the computer randomly rebooted. I've made sure that all the jumpers and settings are correct and everything has been installed correctly. I've tried running it without the addons and one stick of RAM but still the same thing. What else could be causing this problem?

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• Hardware issue, bsod with windows xp irq and strange messages with ubuntu

  - by JP Hellemons

  I have an old Acer T160 and it used to run Windows XP. But I keep getting random BSOD's. I keep seeing IRQ conflicts. I tried to run ubuntu, which runs and keeps running. But sometimes is not responding. Also there are these popups at ubuntu 12.04 that my network cable (which is onboard) is unplugged. But I have no cable in it! and have an usb dongle for wifi. which also seems unstable. have to (auto)reconnect sometimes. So my question is: is it my mobo, power supply or something else? FYI: I had an dvd-rw station which did not open properly, so unplugged the ata and power, als removed the second harddrive. now only have sata harddrive. also removed the extra video card (ati sapphire x1600 pro) so use only onboard video now and still have these issues. EDIT Update: will try with a new PSU (power supply unit of 400watt) the old (factory) one was 300watt. and will use a usb drive which has 12.04 ubuntu on it (made with unetbootin) to format everything and re-install ubuntu. (so also delete mbr partition) will update the day after tomorrow.

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• Intel Ethernet Bottlenecking Internet?

  - by Donald Darma

  I'm having trouble with my internet speeds. So I just recent build a pc and everything is fine. I installed the Intel drivers and connected to the internet. It connects but I'm only half the speed I should be getting. My normal speed is 20mbps but speedtest.net is only showing 10. It can't be my ISP (which is TWC if anyone is asking) because my other devices like my laptop and my smartphone are showing 20 down. Heres my system: CPU: i5 4430 HSF: Stock cooler Mobo: Gigabyte Z87MX-D3H GPU: x2 MSI R7950-3GD5/OC BE RAM: Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer 8GB dual channel PSU: Silencer High Performance Power Supply 750 Watt 80+ (It's a subdivision of OCZ) HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 3TB SSD: Samsung 840 Evo 120 GB Case: Corsair Obsidian 350D Edit: I am using the stock adapter that is on the motherboard. I know for a fact that the cable is good because I used it on my laptop and it ran fine. Its a CAT5E cable. I also ran IPERF and its giving me the same results, 10 mbps.

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