Search Results

Search found 298 results on 12 pages for 'psu'.

Page 6/12 | < Previous Page | 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12  | Next Page >

• Copy a harddrive from a failed desktop machine using a second working one.

  - by MrEyes

  Heres the scenario: I have PC-A, an old PC that runs Windows XP but now refuses to boot due to a failed motherboard (or maybe PSU). This PC has a single 80gb IDE drive. I also have PC-B, running Windows Vista, this is working fine. I want to copy all the data off PC-As HDD onto PC-B. To do this I have taken the HDD out of PC-A and connected it as a slave to PC-B. PC-B now boots and sees the additional drive. However, when I attempt to access/copy user folders (i.e. Documents and Settings/[username]/*) I am told that I cannot access the folders due to user permissions. I am doing this under an adminstrator account on PC-B. So the question is, how can I "backup" the data? Preferably without making any changes to the drive contents. The reason for this is that it is possible that PC-A is failing due to a bad PSU, so I intend to replace it before writing off the machine. However I would feel much happier if I had a backup of the data on the HDD.

  Read the article

• Pc sometimes turns on sometimes not

  - by cprogcr

  Some time ago, the PC gave the same problem. It wouldn't turn on. When i pressed the button, it turned on but showed nothing. I had replaced the CPU and that seemed to work. I didn't use the PC that much, rarely you know. But now, after some time, it gives the same problem. It turns on, the front light is on, it makes the normal noise the pc makes when it's turned on , but if I try to shut it down by holding the power button it just doesn't work. So again, I tried replacing the CPU and it worked again. I kept it all day working, just to be sure, and sometimes I would restart it and it would work again. No problems at all. So I turned it off at night, and next morning it just would make the same problem. So I tried replacing the PSU. And it worked again. Now while I had the PC with the new PSU, i tried to insert the old CPU, and again, it would turn on. The same thing, tried restarting too, and it would work. But this morning the same problem happened. Edit: I also tried another CPU today and yet no signs of working. I don't know now what to think.

  Read the article

• Computer will freeze/ lock up after doing relatively stressful things

  - by GrowingCode247

  I'll first start off by saying that the issue GENERALLY doesn't occur unless I'm doing something remotely stressful for my computer. This issue used to occur whenever it felt it was necessary, however has not occurred completely randomly for a while now (thankfully) My computer's specs: CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 960T GPU: GeForce GTX 760 Memory: 16 GB RAM Resolution Used: 1680x1050, 59Hz (strange number for refresh rate?) res is highest for monitor Nvidia Driver version: 331.65 OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate (64-bit) Sometimes I will be able to go 2-3 games (about an hour, depending) and sometimes it will go maybe one game (20-30 minutes) and then my computer will run sluggishly and leave me unable to do much of anything. I can sometimes interact with programs at a very basic level (maximizing, minimizing), and I usually cannot close them in any way, not even through Task Manager. The highest temperature my GPU reaches is 76C, with the average being around 73C. During the time the temperatures are around 73C, my GPU's RAM usage is anywhere between 1250-1300 (out of 2GB). My CPU's temperature never goes over 60C, thankfully. The PSU should be fine. It's very mildly dusty but I feel as though that would not be causing this problem... I will clean it out as soon as everything else has been ruled out. Honestly I have no clue how to test the PSU for problems - same goes for my Motherboard. I cannot really think of what could be causing these freezes otherwise. Event Viewer details: EventID: 1 - VDS Basic Provider (I've no clue what this is) EventID: 3 - Kernel-EventTracing (Again, lost) EventID: 8003 - bowser (this seems fishy) and the one critical that I know others have been dealing with as I've browsed some other responses on the web: EventID: 41 - Kernel-Power any help to solve this problem would be GREATLY appreciated.

  Read the article

• Graphics card ATI Asus 9250 128 MB AGP problem.Monitor switching off.

  - by Dominick1978

  I have an old system with these specs: Motherboard: Via P4x266a (with AGP 4x) CPU: P4 1,7 Ghz Memory: 1152 MB DDR SDRAM Graphics card: Voodoo 3 2000 16 MB PSU: 300 Watt It also has 1 dvd-rom, 1 dvd-rw, 2 hard drives (all 4 connected via molex) , 1 sounblaster sound card and 1 ethernet card (both connected via pci). OS: XP Pro Recently I bought Asus 9250 128 MB AGP to replace voodoo.Wnen I switch on the pc the initial screens (until after the xp logo) sometimes are distorted with blurred colours.When XP are loaded there is some flickering but the rest are ok.XP can't recognize the card seeing it as just a VGA adapter.I have downloaded the latest xp drivers from ATI website and installed them.Then after the restart everything is ok (no distorted image or blurring) until after the xp logo.After this the monitor turns off while the pc is still running.I have tried many drivers but the problem persists (of course I removed the voodoo drivers before from the display adapter properties).Only once I have managed to enter XP (after changing BIOS features for graphics card from 256 MB to 128 MB) but the drivers on the control panel had an exclamation mark (ati 9250!) and below them ati 9250 secondary without ! under the display adapter tab and the ATI catalyst program said that it couldn;t find the card.That was the opnly time I went beyond the xp logo.Now the monitor auto switcheS off. So, what do you think? 1)Is this a broken card? 2)Is it the drivers of the card? 3)Is it PSU fault? 4)Anything else? Thanks for your help and excuse my english!

  Read the article

• Some Power Supply Cable Questions?

  - by jasondavis

  I am building a new PC and I haven't done this in a few years. It will have all the latest tech stuff. I got my PSU in the mail and I am looking over the cables (it has a lot) I thought it was a mudular PSU so I could only use the cables I need but instead it is a hybrid (some wires attached and some can be added/removed instead of all of then being removable). 1) So I am curious, I believe all my hard drives and optical drives are powered off of a sata power cable so does that mean I probably do not need any of the 4 pin molex cables? Or are these used for other things? 2) I know the 24-pin cable goes to my motherboard. 3) I have some 6-pin cables that are labeled pci-e which is new to me. I read these are for some grapghic cards and stuff. I have 2 grapghic cards but they do not require a seperate pci-e power wire be hooked to them. So are these pci-e wires just to power pci-express cards? Or for other things as well? 4) I have a 4pin ATX 12v wire, what is this for? 5) 8 pin EPS, what is this for?

  Read the article

• What could possibly cause my computer to power down at random times?

  - by geoffreydv

  I have recently bought a new Power Supply and a new graphics card. My PC ran smoothly for a few months now but since a couple of days I'm having a strange problem. I am trying to isolate the problem to a specific piece of hardware (because if it's either the Power Supply or the Graphics card they are still under warranty). The problem started when I was playing a game (diablo 3). My PC suddenly powered down. I was unable to turn it on again by pressing the power button. I unplugged the power cable for a few seconds and plugged it back in. This time the pc powered on but the indication light turned orange instead of white as it normally does. The fans were not spinning and I did not see anything on my screen. After trying a couple of times I gave up. Two days later I tried again and this time the PC did boot up as usual. Everything looked okay until I tested if the problem was resolved by starting Diablo again. After about two minutes it powered down again as it did the first time. If I don't run any games my PC does power down after about 3-5 hours. Another fact that might be relevant: One time the PC did not shut down immediatly, instead first my graphics "powered down" but the music I was playing kept on playing. After about 20 seconds the pc powered down completely as usual. What I also noticed is that when I boot instantly after a power down, the chance of another power down occuring is much higher. Does anyone have an idea what could be causing this kind of behaviour or has a certain tool to diagnose the specific hardware parts? Thanks Specs: Memory: 6GB Processor: Intel i5 OS: Windows 7 64 bit The PC is a Dell Studio XPS 8100 with a replaced PSU and Graphics card: PSU: Corsair CX500 (500 watt) Graphics card: AMD Radeon 6850

  Read the article

• Why are my USB 2.0 devices hanging Windows XP?

  - by BenAlabaster

  Background on the machine I'm having a problem with: The machine was inherited and appears to be circa 2003 (there's a date stamp on the power supply which leads me to this conclusion). I've got it set up as a Skype terminal for my 2 year old to keep in touch with her grandparents and other members of the family - which everyone loves. It has a DFI CM33-TL/G ATX (identified using SiSoft Sandra) motherboard hosting an Intel Celeron 1.3GHz CPU, 768Mb PC133 SDRAM, a D-LINK WDA-2320 54G Wi-Fi network card and a generic USB 2.0 expansion board based on the NEC uPD720102 chipset containing 3 external and 1 internal USB sockets. It's also hosting a 1.44Mb floppy drive on FDD0, a new 80Gb Western Digital hard drive running as master on IDE0 and a Panasonic DVD+/-RW running as master on IDE1. All this is sitting in a slimline case running off a Macron Power MPT-135 135W Flex power supply. The motherboard is running a version of Award BIOS 05/24/2002-601T-686B-6A6LID4AC-00. Could this be updated? If so, from where? I've raked through the manufacturer's website but can't find any hint of downloads for either drivers or BIOS updates. The hard disk is freshly formatted and built with Windows XP Professional/Service Pack 3 and is up to date with all current patches. In addition to Windows XP, the only other software it's running is Skype 4.1 (4.2 hangs the whole machine as soon as it starts up, requiring a hard boot to recover). It's got a Daytek MV150 15" touch screen hooked up to the on board VGA and COM1 sockets with the most current drivers from the Daytek website and the most current version of ELO-Touchsystems drivers for the touch component. The webcam is a Logitech Webcam C200 with the latest drivers from the Logitech website. The problem: If I hook any devices to the USB 2.0 sockets, it hangs the whole machine and I have to hard boot it to get it back up. If I have any devices attached to the USB 2.0 sockets when I boot up, it hangs before Windows gets to the login prompt and I have to hard boot it to recover. Workarounds found: I can plug the same devices into the on board USB 1.0 sockets and everything works fine, albeit at reduced performance. I've tried 3 different kinds of USB thumb drives, 3 different makes/models of webcams and my iPhone all with the same effect. They're recognized and don't hang the machine when I hook them to the USB 1.0 but if I hook them to the USB 2.0 ports, the machine hangs within a couple of seconds of recognizing the devices were connected. Attempted solutions: I've seen suggestions that this could be a power problem - that the PSU just doesn't have the wattage to drive these ports. While I'm doubtful this is the problem [after all the motherboard has the same standard connector regardless of the PSU wattage], I tried disabling all the on board devices that I'm not using - on board LAN, the second COM port, the AGP connector etc. through the BIOS in what I'm sure is a futile attempt to reduce the power consumption... I also modified the ACPI and power management settings. It didn't have any noticeable affect, although it didn't do any harm either. Could the wattage of the PSU really cause this problem? If it can, is there anything I need to be aware of when replacing it or do I just need to make sure it's got a higher wattage than the current one? My interpretation was that the wattage only affected the number of drives you could hook up to the power connectors, is that right? I've installed the USB card in another machine and it works without issue, so it's not a problem with the USB card itself, and Windows says the card is installed and working correctly... right up until I connect a device to it. The only thing I haven't done which I only just thought of while writing this essay is trying the USB 2.0 card in a different PCI slot, or re-ordering the wi-fi and USB cards in the slots... although I'm not sure if this will make any difference - does anyone have any experience that would suggest this might work? Other thoughts/questions: Perhaps this is an incompatibility between the USB 2.0 card and the BIOS, would re-flashing the BIOS with a newer version help? Do I need to be able to identify the manufacturer of the motherboard in order to be able to find a BIOS edition specific for this motherboard or will any version of Award BIOS function in its place? Question: Does anyone have any ideas that could help me get my USB 2.0 devices hooked up to this machine?

  Read the article

• Where to find new Micro-BTX (uBTX) motherboards? Or should I just replace the box?

  - by John Rudy

  OK, so I'm guessing that it's dead. It's not my machine, and the owner is on a very fixed (IE, none) income. I'm generous, but I'm not that generous, since I already gave him what (at the time) was a fully functional and fairly well-equipped machine. (Aside from the mobo and proc, almost nothing else in it was stock. I'd taken it up to 3GB of RAM, upgraded the hard drive, added a decent video card, installed a wireless adapter, running Vista, etc.) According to further research, the machine uses a Micro-BTX (uBTX) motherboard, and since it's an AMD Athlon64, the AM2 socket. So I'm looking at a few options, and am wondering what's the best route to take? Find an AM2 socket uBTX mobo. I can't find them new online anywhere, leading me to believe that this is an obsolete form factor/chip combination. I don't want a refurb or a system pull because, quite honestly, once I deal with this mess, I don't want to go through it again in another year or two. Find an Intel uBTX mobo and a (relatively -- hah, I still want at least a dual-core) inexpensive Intel CPU. At this point, the only things stock in the machine would be the case and the PSU. :) Buy a bare-bones kit (mobo/proc/PSU/case, sometimes even RAM) from somewhere like CompUSA/TigerDirect or Fry's and move all of the other hardware over. This makes life difficult because the copy of Vista is an upgrade, tied to the copy of XP which shipped on the Gateway, which is OEM and won't install on the new box. :) If I change the CPU brand (AMD to Intel), will I need to reinstall Windows, or can it just be reactivated? Where can I actually find a new, in-box, not system pull, not refurb AM2 uBTX mobo? Do they even exist anymore? What kind of money are we talking (US dollars)? The end goal is to get the machine functional again as cheaply as humanly possible. If it were my own machine, I wouldn't even be asking this, I'd be custom-building a new one. However, it's not mine, I'm shelling out of pocket for the fix (plus the work), and thus want to keep that end price low-low-low.

  Read the article

• Windows 7 boot problem (with colorful blinking smilies)

  - by Ishmael Smyrnow

  I put my computer (Windows 7) to sleep, and a couple hours later, tried to wake it back up, but the monitor wouldn't come back on. I did a hard reset (held power button), but I still couldn't get the monitor to show anything. I plugged it into my laptop, and the monitor works fine. I then swapped out the video card with an older one I have. The monitor came on and started showing the boot process. However, shortly after the Windows 7 animated logo came up, the screen went blank, it made this weird beeping noise, and I seen the strangest thing ever. Small, colorful blocks started to fill my screen, and flash, as if something was loading. Inside of those blocks, were smilies (like the ASCII character kind). This continued for about a minute, then the computer rebooted. It scared the sh!t out of me. I've never had a virus before, and I'm savvy enough to keep myself from one, but I'm wondering if that's what it was. I've been using computers for ages, and never seen anything quite like this. Has anyone ever seen something like this? I'm doing hardware diagnostics before trying to boot into Windows again. Hopefully I can figure this out, but I thought I would consult the SU community while I wait on these results. -- UPDATE -- I did a Memory Diagnostic, which turned up nothing. I also booted into Safe Mode no problem, and scheduled a disk check on both of my drives (I dual boot XP & 7). I was feeling good, and tried putting my regular video card back in, and the monitor won't display anything with it. Also, even though the monitor displays nothing, the system sounds like it's booting up. However, I hear a clicking in one of my hard drives that isn't there with the older video card. Could this be a problem with my hard drive, video card, or PSU? PSU makes sense, except for the fact I've been using the same setup for over a year, and the video card doesn't require it's own power plug thing.

  Read the article

• Windows 7 remains powered on when restarting

  - by BombDefused

  I'm running windows 7 x64 on an MSI P67A-GD53 motherboard, in an Antec P280 Super Midi Towercase with a Corsair 650w PSU. I've just installed a second instance of windows 7 x64 on a separate disk (this is to keep my games separate from my work OS). The problem is that it appears now that I cannot restart from either instance of Windows 7. The shut down command, and sleep commands work as expected. When I try to restart, the shutdown happens but the system never reboots. Everything remains powered on, until I hold down the power button to force the power off. Ithink (but am not 100% sure) this has only started since I installed the second OS, and am assuming this has something to do with the motherboard needing to know which OS to run up again? Some other forums I've read suggest that the PSU has a major role in restart and could be at fault. Changing the boot order of the disks in the BIOS does not change anything. Any suggestions greatfully recieved! Update: I now have a reproduceable issue: I think the secondary OS install may have been a red herring. It was when windows tried to reboot during the install that I noticed the issue. After playing around with installing drivers, and rebooting many many times, I have found that it is the OC genie setting on the MSI motherboard that seems to trigger the problem. This makes sense as I only started using the OC genie feature a couple of weeks ago, and probably hadn't used restart in that time. However... simply turning off OC genie does not make the issue go away. I have to turn off OC genie, shutdown, start enter bios, go to the "Save and Exit" menu "Restore Defaults" yes to "Load optimized defaults", which will reset to clear the problem. Now when the PC boots into windows, I can restart as normal (and from the OS on either HDD). I only know how to control the issue, and don't still know the root cause. I'd like to be able to use the OC genie function if anyone can suggest a why I'm seeing this problem. Could it be that I'm drawing too much power when using OC feature?

  Read the article

• AMD Socket FM1 A8 3870 3.0Ghz ASUS F1A75-M LE

  - by Tracy

  I am building a new computer for my wife and plan on using an: AMD socket FM1 A8 3870 3.0Ghz quad core processor ASUS f1a75-M LE motherboard Corsair xms3 8gb 1600 memory (2x4) Western Digital Caviar Blue 750gb hd OCZ Vertex 120 gb SSD Coolmax blue 700 watt psu Pioneer 24x dvdrw HEC Blitz mid tower case Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit Are there any recommended settings that I need to pay close attention too in the BIOS? For example, both the CPU and motherboard have integrated graphics (AMD Radeon HD 6550D and HD 6000, respectively).

  Read the article

• Boot problem: weird sound...

  - by Wesley

  Here are the specs to put things into context: ECS P4M800PRO-M478 (V1.0) Intel P4 "Northwood" 2.8C GHz (HT) Socket 478 2x 512 MB PC2-4200 DDR2-533 RAM Visiontek Radeon HD 3650 512 MB DDR2 AGP Maxtor 120 GB SATA HDD The Best Power 500 W ATX PSU Anyways, it's not booting Windows XP SP3 properly. Specifically, there is a sound when it fails to boot and the computer automatically restarts. You can listen to the sound here. What could be the problem?

  Read the article

• What's the best way to spray paint the inside of my case?

  - by Liam teague

  Hi, was just wanting to spray my case black and someone told me that if the inside is not "earthed" something could quite possibly short out and/or fry. Just wondering if this is true and what type of spray paint I should use etc. My system is an Intel Core 2 Duo, ASUS P5KPL-CM mobo, Gigabyte 720W PSU etc.

  Read the article

• Custom built machine has much higher power consumption than expected

  - by foraidt

  I built a machine according to the specs of a computer magazine (c't, Germany). According to the magazine, the power consumption should be at around 10W. I don't want to go into the specifics of the hardware but rather ask for general advice on where to look: I updated the BIOS/UEFI version to the latest version, installed all the recommended drivers and unplugged all hardware that's not necessary to boot into Windows. All that was left is the power supply, mainboard, cpu, cpu cooler and one SSD drive. But still I measured a power consumption of 50W, which is 40W more than it should be. I tried booting Linux Mint from a USB stick, so I don't think it's some Windows-related problem.. Where else could I look? Update 1 I dind't want the question to get closed for being too localized but if more details are necessary, here they are: The system is a desktop PC. The power consumption is measured using a Brennenstuhl PM 231 device, which was tested also by c't and they found it quite accurate. The PSU is an Enermax ETL300AWT, the mainboard Intel DH87RL (Socket 1150) and the CPU Intel G3220 (Haswell). Update 2 There is no online version of the article*. The most details I found can be read on its project page (in German, though...) (*)You can pay for downloadable PDFs, however. English translation of that project page Update 3 Regarding the sceptics: It may sound ridiculous but apparently 10W idle consumption is possible with Intel's Haswell architecture. As a kind of proof, there's an additional Blog article explicitly listing the steps needed to reduce the idle consumption to 10W. Additional hardware: I measured the consumption without the HDD, and as expected the usage dropped by around 10W. I have no chassis fans and the CPU fan is a "Scythe Mugen 4" model. It runs at around 600rpm so I think it won't draw much. When stripping off all my extra components I should be at 10W. But I'm not getting anywhere near that. I would be happy to see "just" 15W in the stripped down version but currently I'm not getting below 50W no matter which component I remove. As I see it this cannot be explained by the PSU being less efficient at lower consumption. I also waited half an hour or so (also checked that no Windows updates were running in the background) and the consumption dind't drop by more than a few watts.

  Read the article

• Why does unpartitioned Hitachi HDS5C3020 drive start consuming 50% more power 15 minutes after boot?

  - by Pro Backup

  In a Debian 6.0.6 system there are 74 pieces of 2TB Toshiba DT01ABA200 drives. These drives are identified as Hitachi HDS5C3020BLE630 drives running firmware revision MZ4OAAB0. 64 Drives attached via HP SAS expander cards to an LSI 2008 SAS controller, another 5 drives are connected directly to the mainboard, 4 drives are connected to a Sil based PCI controller and last 1 drive is only powered and has no data cable connected. The controller LSI and Sil card's their onboard BIOS are both disabled and the mpt2sas and sata_sil modules are removed from the Linux debian 2.6.32-5-amd64 #1 SMP Sun Sep 23 10:07:46 UTC 2012 x86_64 GNU/Linux kernel. The mpt2sas module is loaded after boot using a modprobe command in /etc/rc.local. These 74 drives are not partitioned, neither formatted and also not mounted. The system consumes: with 0 drives: 70.6 - 70.9 Watt (also 15 minutes after boot); with 74 drives: 330 - 360 Watt, just after boot (is equivalent to 3.5 - 3.9W per drive in idle state); with 74 drives: 420 - 466 Watt, each time in the 15th minute of uptime (is equivalent to 4.7 - 5.3W per drive in idle state). The drive specification lists 4.7W as read/write, and 3.3W as idle power consumption. The increased power consumption is most likely on the 5V line, because after roughly 1 minute an "over current protection" (OCP) of the power supply (PSU) shuts down the power. The used PSU is a single rail model with an OCP of 122A on the 12V line and 55A on the 5V line. Regression: It doesn't matter whether the drive its APM value is set to disabled or 1 (maximum power saving). The operating system records no read/write activity in /proc/diskstats. The values there are identical (28 read, 0 write operations) as immediately after the modprobe operation. Can't test what happens when booting into the mainboard it's BIOS - to exclude any OS intervention - because the Super Micro X8SI6-F mainboard running firmware 06/27/12 has a bug that incorrectly reads a +74.0 C CPU sensor temperature as "High" in BIOS mode, and shuts down the power after 1 minute. What might be causing the drive read/write activity on all drives in the 15th minute after boot and how to prevent it from happening?

  Read the article

• Grounded outlet on external hard drive.

  - by goathens

  Is there any value in getting an external hard drive with a grounded power supply? Would grounding the drive protect it from a static jolt from my hand when I pick it up? I've only really ever used the huge 5.25" external housings (they usually have an integrated power supply and use the standard heavy PSU cable with ground), and I need some more but noticed while shopping that the current trend is towards smaller enclosures with the external brick (and hardly ever grounded).

  Read the article

• Asus M4A79XTD-EVO / AMD Phenom II X4 965 Crashes / BSOD / Hangs / Restarts

  - by Tiby

  I'll try to be as concise as possible because I have a lot to say about my problem, but I'd rather say it when asked or when I feel it's necessary, just to make this initial reading clearer. For about a year and a half I have periods when my system has all the problems in the title (I'll use the word 'crash' for either one). I'll list some patterns and what I tried to do and what were the results, but the list is not exclusive: usually it crashes when a CPU-intensive operation is in progress, like a game or video encoding or HD movie rendering, but also sometimes crashes when I'm doing nothing after a first crash the system is very unstable and sometimes it crashes even during POST, or doesn't boot at all Some months ago I went to a local service (one that you just put your computer on the table and sit there with a guy and trying to figure out the problem, very rare these days) and they used OCCT and it crashed every time he changed some part to test it out (PSU, RAM, video card, HDD). The last one was the CPU. They changed the CPU and it didn't crash any more. Then when they put my CPU back, it also didn't crash. We figured that the trouble was the thermal paste (probably some 2 years old) because it was the only thing changed while testing. Up until 2 weeks ago, I haven't had any more problems. 2 weeks ago the problems reappeared. I changed again the thermal paste, put some Arctic Silver 5, and for about a week everything worked perfect (tried some games, video encoding, no more crashes). But again it started crashing in the same fashion as the first time. But now, instead, I figured out a very odd behaviour: when I start some of the apps above, in most cases it crashes if I start OCCT and turn on the CPU test, and run any of the programs above, it doesn't crash, even if the CPU is on 100% load (and 65-70 degrees Celsius temperature) if I shut down OCCT and continue using the programs, it crashes in a very short period of time (even if the CPU is on 5-10% load and 40 degrees) There are so many patterns and temporary solutions that I figured out in this year and a half period of time, that I can't include them all because I don't know which one are more relevant, but I'll happily provide any details you ask. My system is: CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 965 (3400 MHz - 125W) MB: ASUS M4A79XTD - EVO RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8 GB (2 x 4GB) CL8 1600MHz Video: HIS Radeon HD5770 1GB PSU: Corsair 750W HDD: Western Digital 1TB OS: Win 7 Enterprise 64 BIT (also tried with Windows Server 2008 R2 Trial and Win XP)

  Read the article

• I am building a computer, will these components work? [closed]

  - by david

  Case: Coolermaster HAF 912 Graphic card: Sapphire RADEON HD 6850 Optical Drive: SONY SATA DVD-ROM PSU: Corsair CX500 RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9D-8GBXL Motherboard: MSI Z77A-G43 Processor: Intel core i3 2120 Still don't know which harddrive to use, neither if i should buy a cpu cooler fan... so if you can help me, please

  Read the article

• Choosing parts for a high-spec custom PC - feedback required [closed]

  - by James

  I'm looking to build a high-spec PC costing under ~£800 (bearing in mind I can get the CPU half price). This is my first time doing this so I have plenty of questions! I have been doing lots of research and this is what I have come up with: http://pcpartpicker.com/uk/p/j4lE Usage: I will be using it for Adobe CS6, rendering in 3DS Max, particle simulations in Realflow and for playing games like GTA IV (and V when it comes out), Crysis 1/2, Saints Row The Third, Deus Ex HR, etc. Questions: Can you see any obvious problem areas with the current setup? Will it be sufficient for the above usage? I won't be doing any overclocking initially. Is it worth buying the H60 liquid cooler, or will the fan that comes with the CPU be sufficient? Is water cooling generally quieter? Is the chosen motherboard good for the current components? And is it future-proof? I read that the HDD is often the bottleneck when it comes to gaming. I presume this is true to other high-end applications? If so, is my selection good? I keep changing my mind about the GPU; first the 560, now the 660. Can anyone shed some light on how to choose? I read mixed opinions about matching the GPU to the CPU. Will the 560 or the 660 be sufficient for my required usage? Atm I'm basing my choice on the PassMark benchmarks and how much they cost. The specs on the GeForce website state that the 560 and the 660 both require 450W. Is this a good figure to base the wattage of my PSU on? If so, how do you decide? Do I really need 750W? The latest GTX 690 requires 650W. Is it a good idea to buy a 750W PSU now to future-proof myself?

  Read the article

• Is the following combination of components valid to function as a desktop computer? [closed]

  - by Gideon Potgieter

  Could someone with more PC building experience than me tell me whether these PC components can cooperate fully as a self-made PC? Processor: Intel Core i5-3570K Video card: Asus Radeon HD 7870 Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z77-D3H RAM: Corsair CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10 Vengeance 16GB 1600MHz CL10 DDR3 (x2) Storage: Western Digital WD1002FAEX (x2) Display: Samsung S24B300HL Sound: Logitech X140 Chassis: Thermaltake V4 Black Edition VM30001W2Z Power supply: Seagate OEM 500W Builder PSU Optical drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST Thanks in advance! (btw, I know 32 GB RAM is unnecessary, but I want to buy it to use as a reserve)

  Read the article

• Computer randomly reboots during "intensive activity".

  - by Reznor

  My friend has been playing games on his new build for some time now. However, lately, his computer will randomly reboot out of nowhere, so far only happening in game, and presumably only to happen in game as it happens nowhere else. This can happen in game during play or even in the options. Note, it isn't a crash or blue screen. It's just a normal reboot. This started today, I believe, and has only occured in two games: Dead Space and Stalker: Shadow of Chernobyl. He has played a handful of games before these, for about a week or so, without this problem. We theorized on two possibilities: Maybe something is overheating? Maybe the power supply is inadequate? These two were quickly dismissed, as all his components were operating at normal temperatures when he got back to his desktop from the reboot, and we all know these parts don't exactly cool down quickly, especially if they get hot enough to trigger a reboot. Besides, I know at-least my motherboard reports processor overheating at start-up, and requests I press f1 to continue into boot. The PSU one was dismissed too. He has an 850w power supply on a rig that was estimated to take only 720 some watts, that's with some overcompensating to be safe. He opened up his case to make sure nothing was seated wrong or in the way. All was fine, but he did notice a sticker on his video card. It had a giant barcode on it and some numbers. Now, I'm used to seeing these stickers, they're the warranty stickers, right, and removal voids the warranty? Yeah, well, we find it odd because this sticker is slapped right over the circuits of the video card, not on a block or anything. Is this normal? Should he remove it? Right now, I am concerned with the memory. Could that be at fault? Here are his specs: Windows 7 Home Premium, 64-Bit Intel i7 950 EVGA GeForce 570 GTX 4 GB DDR3 PC10666 dual-channel Corsair RAM Corsair 850w PSU Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R Western Digital 1 TB WD1001FALS

  Read the article

• ATX power: 20 or 24 pins?

  - by djechelon

  What is the difference between 20-pins ATX power cables and 24-pins ATX power cables for motherboard? I see that Cooler Master Silent Pro PSU has an extensible plug, showing 20 pins + 4 pluggable pins. Since I'm having troubles with my motherboard, which has 24 pins, I tried to connect only the first 20 and the system booted up fine. I'm curious: can any ATX motherboard run with 20-pins power? Will I simply experience lower performance?

  Read the article

• Turn a Computer Power Supply into a Desktop Power Supply

  - by Jason Fitzpatrick

  If you’re looking for a desktop power supply for your electronics workbench, this tutorial video shows you how to turn a computer PSU into a desktop power supply. In the above video the guys at JumperOneTV show us how to make a desktop power supply. As an addendum to the video; they note in the comments section on the YouTube video that they were wearing gloves for the drilling and that they did a very thorough job cleaning out any loose metal shavings with an air compressor. If you wanted to play it even safer (and you should!) you would remove the circuit board from the enclosure before doing any drilling. Converting an ATX Power Supply to a Lab Bench Power Supply [JumperOneTV via Make] How To Recover After Your Email Password Is CompromisedHow to Clean Your Filthy Keyboard in the Dishwasher (Without Ruining it)Learn How to Make HDR Images in Photoshop or GIMP With a Simple Trick

  Read the article

• Internet Exploror 9 Support for EPM Products

  - by THE

  (source: Greg)  Internet Explorer 9 support for Enterprise Performance Management  11.1.2.1 products:With release of Patch Set Update 11.1.2.1.600 Internet Explorer 9 is now a supported browser for EPM products. This PSU has been released for: Shared Services <Patch 14142678> Workspace <Patch 14119724> Enterprise Performance Management Architect EPMA <Patch 14224664> Planning <Patch 14464109> Hyperion Financial Management HFM <Patch 14354419> For full information regarding IE compatibility with EPM products please review  Doc ID 1355681.1Enterprise Performance Management Products Compatibility with Internet Explorer ( IE6, IE7, IE8 and IE9).For the list of latest PSUs for EPM products please see ( Doc ID 1400559.1) Available Patch Sets and Patch Set Updates for Oracle Hyperion Enterprise Performance Management Products.

  Read the article

• Uncontrolled Fan and Crash

  - by RobotbeatsHuman

  I don't have sensors to properly run lm-sensors. The computer will turn on but shortly there after all the fans in it will speed way up. It stays like this for a few minutes and then the computer shuts off. Tried resetting the BIO. Went to try installing a BIOs update but it wont stay on long enough for me to try that or to do a clean install. Could this be the motherboard dying? It's mainly the CPU fan that ends up going max. after a few minutes. I checked the PSU and It's a Dell Inspiron 580. If you need more system specs just le me know.

  Read the article

< Previous Page | 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12  | Next Page >