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  • Is there another application like Nokia PC Suite for Ubuntu?

    - by gabiro
    I've been looking for an alternative Nokia PC suite for Ubuntu. I'm tired of switching OS, and I'm tired of using Windows it is so boring me. Not Wammu, Gammu, Nokuntu, Ginokki and Series 60. They don't work. Via cable. I need an application that can detect via cable (because I have a very different reason why I need it to detect via cable). Also after installing in Wine it can't detect the Phone and I think the installation didn't finish correctly. Thank You !

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  • Laptop battery sometimes does not charge?

    - by user1880405
    So on my Asus K56C laptop running Ubuntu 14.04 (was same problem in 13.10) I got a problem that from time to time after I use laptop without cable (just on battery) it stops charging with cable. I can still use laptop indefinitely on cable, but it's not charging. The only solution is to remove and reinsert the battery, then it will charge. Now I wonder how does laptop 'knows' that battery was reinserted, and is it possible to simulate that from Ubuntu, maybe some command which refreshes battery? P.s.: this is not happening on Windows 8.1.

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  • Cannot establish maximum resolution on ASUS PB278Q

    - by dentuzhik
    I've recently bought brand new ASUS PB278Q monitor. When trying to connect to my laptop, everything works great, except that I can't get the native resolution of my monitor (2560x1440) working. The automatic is 1920x1080. My graphic card is Nvidia GeForce 320m. Here's output from lspci for it: ~$ lspci | grep VGA 02:00.0 VGA compatible controller: NVIDIA Corporation GT216M [GeForce GT 320M] (rev a2) and also xrandr: ~$ xrandr Screen 0: minimum 8 x 8, current 3286 x 1437, maximum 8192 x 8192 VGA-0 disconnected (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) LVDS-0 connected primary 1366x768+0+669 (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) 344mm x 193mm 1366x768 60.0*+ HDMI-0 connected 1920x1080+1366+0 (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) 600mm x 340mm 1920x1080 60.0*+ 59.9 50.0 30.0 25.0 24.0 60.0 50.0 1680x1050 60.0 1440x900 59.9 1280x1024 75.0 60.0 1280x960 60.0 1280x800 59.8 1280x720 60.0 59.9 50.0 1152x864 75.0 1024x768 75.0 70.1 60.0 800x600 75.0 72.2 60.3 56.2 720x576 50.0 720x480 59.9 640x480 75.0 59.9 59.9 480x576 50.0 480x480 59.9 I have proprietary drivers installed on my machine, here's the info about the monitor from nvidia-settings (Actually I don't have enough reputation to post images, so here's the text): Chip Location: Internal Signal: TDMS Connection link: Single Native resolution: 2560x1440 Refresh rate: 60.00 Hz The monitor is connected to laptop via HDMI cable, and honestly I have no idea what version it is, and what version is my HDMI output of my graphics card. I tried to find how I can figure it out on the web, but had no luck. Also my video card has only VGA and HDMI outs so I can't test neither DVI-D cable nor DisplayPort. So apparently, there's some problem over there. At least I want to know exactly what's going on. I've tried to see if it a linux-specific problem, but windows also gave me the same resolution by default. What I've already tried: Connect through VGA (stupid one, of course it gave me 1920x1080). Checked two HDMI cables (not sure if they're the same or not, as mentioned above). Played around with xrandr and adding custom modes. Didn't help. Surfed for the info a lot on the web, but couldn't get appropriate results. Actually xrandr gives me the following: ~$ cvt 2560 1440 60 # 2560x1440 59.96 Hz (CVT 3.69M9) hsync: 89.52 kHz; pclk: 312.25 MHz Modeline "2560x1440_60.00" 312.25 2560 2752 3024 3488 1440 1443 1448 1493 -hsync +vsync ~$ xrandr --newmode "2560x1440_60.00" 312.25 2560 2752 3024 3488 1440 1443 1448 1493 -hsync +vsync ~$ xrandr Screen 0: minimum 8 x 8, current 3286 x 1437, maximum 8192 x 8192 VGA-0 disconnected (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) LVDS-0 connected 1366x768+0+669 (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) 344mm x 193mm 1366x768 60.0*+ HDMI-0 connected primary 1920x1080+1366+0 (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) 600mm x 340mm 1920x1080 60.0*+ 59.9 50.0 30.0 25.0 24.0 60.0 50.0 1680x1050 60.0 1440x900 59.9 1280x1024 75.0 60.0 1280x960 60.0 1280x800 59.8 1280x720 60.0 59.9 50.0 1152x864 75.0 1024x768 75.0 70.1 60.0 800x600 75.0 72.2 60.3 56.2 720x576 50.0 720x480 59.9 640x480 75.0 59.9 59.9 480x576 50.0 480x480 59.9 2560x1440_60.00 (0x34f) 312.2MHz h: width 2560 start 2752 end 3024 total 3488 skew 0 clock 89.5KHz v: height 1440 start 1443 end 1448 total 1493 clock 60.0Hz ~$ xrandr --addmode HDMI-0 2560x1440_60.00 X Error of failed request: BadMatch (invalid parameter attributes) Major opcode of failed request: 140 (RANDR) Minor opcode of failed request: 18 (RRAddOutputMode) Serial number of failed request: 29 Current serial number in output stream: 30 What I intend to do next: Try another HDMI cable? Try HDMI to DVI-D cable? Try HDMI to DisplayPort cable? Another type of adapters? VGA to DVI-D? Buy another laptop with another graphic card. Damn. My ideas pretty much end here. Any ideas? Any explanations why it isn't working are appreciated.

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  • XNA 2D line-of-sight check

    - by bionicOnion
    I'm working on a top-down shooter in XNA, and I need to implement line-of-sight checking. I've come up with a solution that seems to work, but I get the nagging feeling that it won't be efficient enough to do every frame for multiple calls (the game already hiccups slightly at about 10 calls per frame). The code is below, but my general plan was to create a series of rectangles with a width and height of zero to act as points along the sight line, and then check to see if any of these rectangles intersects a ClutterObject (an interface I defined for things like walls or other obstacles) after first screening for any that can't possibly be in the line of sight (i.e. behind the viewer) or are too far away (a concession I made for efficiency). public static bool LOSCheck(Vector2 pos1, Vector2 pos2) { Vector2 currentPos = pos1; Vector2 perMove = (pos2 - pos1); perMove.Normalize(); HashSet<ClutterObject> clutter = new HashSet<ClutterObject>(); foreach (Room r in map.GetRooms()) { if (r != null) { foreach (ClutterObject c in r.GetClutter()) { if (c != null &&!(c.GetRectangle().X * perMove.X < 0) && !(c.GetRectangle().Y * perMove.Y < 0)) { Vector2 cVector = new Vector2(c.GetRectangle().X, c.GetRectangle().Y); if ((cVector - pos1).Length() < 1500) clutter.Add(c); } } } } while (currentPos != pos2 && ((currentPos - pos1).Length() < 1500)) { Rectangle position = new Rectangle((int)currentPos.X, (int)currentPos.Y, 0, 0); foreach (ClutterObject c in clutter) { if (position.Intersects(c.GetRectangle())) return false; } currentPos += perMove; } return true; } I'm sure that there's a better way to do this (or at least a way to make this method more efficient), but I'm not too used to XNA yet, so I figured it couldn't hurt to bring it here. At the very least, is there an efficient to determine which objects may be in front of the viewer with greater precision than the rather broad 90 degree window I've given myself?

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  • The rule of 5 - to use it or not?

    - by VJovic
    The rule of 3 (the rule of 5 in the new c++ standard) states : If you need to explicitly declare either the destructor, copy constructor or copy assignment operator yourself, you probably need to explicitly declare all three of them. But, on the other hand, the Martin's "Clean Code" advises to remove all empty constructors and destructors (page 293, G12:Clutter) : Of what use is a default constructor with no implementation? All it serves to do is clutter up the code with meaningless artifacts. So, how to handle these two opposite opinions? Should empty constructors/destructors really be implemented?

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  • Determining the health of a Cisco switch port?

    - by ewwhite
    I've been chasing a packet-loss and network stability issue for a handful of end-users on an internal network for the past few days... These issues surfaced recently, however, the location was struck by lightning six weeks ago. I was seeing 5-10% packet loss between a stack of four Cisco 2960's and several PC's and phones on the other side of a 77-meter run. The PC's were run inline with the phones over a trunked link. We were seeing dropped calls and interruptions in client-server applications and Microsoft Exchange connectivity. I tried the usual troubleshooting steps remotely, having a local technician do the following during breaks in user and production activity: change cables between the wall jack and device. change patch cables between the patch panel and switch port(s). try different switch ports within the 2960 stack. change end-user devices with known-good equipment (new phones, different PC's). clear switch port interface counters and monitor incrementing errors closely. (Pastebin output of sh int) Pored over the device logs and Observium RRD graphs. No link up/down issues from the switch side. change power strips on the end-user side. test cable runs from the Cisco 2960 using test cable-diagnostics tdr int Gi4/0/9 (clean)* test cable runs with a Tripp-Lite cable tester. (clean) run diagnostics on the switch stack members. (clean) In the end, it took three changes of switch ports to find a stable solution. The only logical conclusion is that a few Cisco 2960 switch ports are bad or flaky... Not dead, but not consistent in behavior either. I'm not used to seeing individual ports die in this manner. What else can I test or check to determine if these devices are bad? Is it common for single ports to have problems, rather than a contiguous bank of ports? BTW - show cable-diagnostics tdr int Gi4/0/14 is very cool... Interface Speed Local pair Pair length Remote pair Pair status --------- ----- ---------- ------------------ ----------- -------------------- Gi4/0/14 1000M Pair A 79 +/- 0 meters Pair B Normal Pair B 75 +/- 0 meters Pair A Normal Pair C 77 +/- 0 meters Pair D Normal Pair D 79 +/- 0 meters Pair C Normal

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  • Is my Cisco switch port bad?

    - by ewwhite
    I've been chasing a packet-loss and network stability issue for a handful of end-users on an internal network for the past few days... These issues surfaced last week, however the location was struck by lightning six weeks ago. I was seeing 5-10% packet loss between a stack of four Cisco 2960's and several PC's and phones on the other side of a 77-meter run. The PC's were run inline with the phones over a trunked link (switchport configuration pastebin). We were seeing dropped calls and interruptions in client-server applications and Microsoft Exchange connectivity. I tried the usual troubleshooting steps remotely, having a local technician do the following during breaks in user and production activity: change cables between the wall jack and device. change patch cables between the patch panel and switch port(s). try different switch ports within the 2960 stack. change end-user devices with known-good equipment (new phones, different PC's). clear switch port interface counters and monitor incrementing errors closely. (Pastebin output of sh int) Pored over the device logs and Observium RRD graphs. No link up/down issues from the switch side. change power strips on the end-user side. test cable runs from the Cisco 2960 using test cable-diagnostics tdr int Gi4/0/9 (clean)* test cable runs with a Tripp-Lite cable tester. (clean) run diagnostics on the switch stack members. (clean) In the end, it took three changes of switch ports to find a stable solution. The only logical conclusion is that a few Cisco 2960 switch ports are bad or flaky... Not dead, but not consistent in behavior either. I'm not used to seeing individual ports die in this manner. What else can I test or check to determine if these devices are bad? Is it common for single ports to have problems, rather than a contiguous bank of ports? BTW - show cable-diagnostics tdr int Gi4/0/14 is very cool... Interface Speed Local pair Pair length Remote pair Pair status --------- ----- ---------- ------------------ ----------- -------------------- Gi4/0/14 1000M Pair A 79 +/- 0 meters Pair B Normal Pair B 75 +/- 0 meters Pair A Normal Pair C 77 +/- 0 meters Pair D Normal Pair D 79 +/- 0 meters Pair C Normal

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  • How do I force Windows 7 to recognize my Projector?

    - by user63564
    I have a new Dell XPS with an NVIDIA GeForce GT 445M and an old (several years) Epson PowerLite Cinema 550 projector. Windows 7 refuses to recognize that the projector is connected under normal conditions (I'll get to the strange condition in a moment). Here are some things that I have already tried: Confirm that the projector continues to work well on my old Windows XP laptop. Confirm that the video cable (HDMI to HDMI) is connected Make sure the Dell laptop is plugged in to wall power at all times Reboot both the computer and the projector Click "Detect" under the "Connect to an External Display" Windows dialog (no reaction) Click "Rigorous Display Detection" under NVIDIA Control Panel (dialog: none found) Checked "Force Television Detection on startup" under "My display is not shown..." in NVIDIA Control Panel (no effect) Here's where it gets weird... My projector has three states: off, standby and on. Standby means the power switch on the back is on, but the projector is effectively off (no picture, no access to menu or controls). When I plug in the HDMI cable while the projector is in standby, Windows detects the projector! It lets me switch to Duplicate, Extend, or Project Only mode, and adjusts the resolution appropriately. A new Generic Plug-n-Play monitor shows up in my device manager. A "Seiko EPSON PJ" display shows up in my NVIDIA control panel. Then if I turn my projector on, Windows no longer recognizes the display. This is true whether I turn the projector on while the HDMI cable is plugged in, or if I unplug the HDMI cable while turning on the projector. Anyone have any ideas, because I'm completely stumped...?

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  • Why can I not access the internet when Windows 7 finds no issue with the ethernet connection and the network can see my device?

    - by WannabeCoder
    So I just moved from a house to an apartment. In the house and the apartment I had Uverse set up - and in both I had my desktop connected via a ~40 foot long cat5 cable. However, upon moving to the apartment I found that my ethernet connection no longer provides internet. This would seem like a mundane problem if not for: The router can see the computer on the network Windows 7 (the desktop's OS) detects no problems with the ethernet connection. Connections over the internet (i.e. browser windows, Pandora, etc.) do not immediately fail. Instead they load for 2 minutes and then finally give up. Devices connected over the Wifi (PS4, Laptop) access the internet just fine While removing the cat5 cable from my house, I accidentally damaged the locking tab but managed to bend it back into the appropriate position. I would suspect that a bad cat5 cable might be to blame if not for the above issues (thought I've heard bad cat5 cables cause the most nonsensical problems) and the fact that I tested the cat5 cable by having it share internet between my laptop (working internet) to my desktop and it functioned just fine and provided the desktop with internet. My ipconfig /all successfully finds a default gateway, DHCP server, and DNS server. What could possibly be causing the problem?

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  • Two NIC's 2 Internet Connections, 1 Windows Server 2008 RC2, Routing help required

    - by PJZ
    Hello, I have a Windows 2008 server and 4 other client machines on my home network. I have two internet connections. The main connection is setup with a home router and DHCP on that for all the clients on the network. The secondary connection is just a cable modem which is plugged directly into the server. Local Area Connection: This NIC has an external IP and is connected to the Cable Modem. Local Area Connection 2: This NIC has an internal IP (192.168.0.102) and allows access to all the internal computers. It also has internet access via the local router. So here lies the problem, I want to use the Cable connection on the server for the internet traffic (so that the traffic for server/clients are seperated) but I also need to maintain local access. I am wondering how to make it so that all the internet traffic goes via that NIC because at the moment it goes through the local NIC. As a secondary problem I would also like to forward the connection of one application used by the clients via the server and the cable/server internet because of poor routing for it on the main connection. This perhaps is something for another question though. Thanks for any help you can offer me. Regards PJ

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  • Are HDMI to VGA Adapters Really Device-Specific?

    - by allquixotic
    There are a lot of devices on the market right now (especially mobile devices) with a Micro-HDMI or Mini-HDMI port and no VGA or D-Sub output. Most manufacturers of said devices sell a cable that looks something like this: I have yet to find a cable like this that claims to work on a wide array of devices. In general, these cables claim to work with one specific device only. The way these cables work, I think, is that analog VGA signals are sent from the HDMI port on the device. This should work for devices that have special hardware on the motherboard/GPU capable of driving this. Is it the case that these cables have to be custom designed for each device? Or, is it rather that any device which possesses this special "signaling of analog VGA over the HDMI port" can be made to work with a cable that is physically compatible (i.e. the HDMI end plugs into the device and the VGA end accepts a VGA monitor cable)? Note that I am not looking for a product recommendation, just a conceptual clarification on what exactly these devices are doing. Also, a few remarks: The cables like the one depicted here are not digital to analog converters. I know about these: they are expensive, and they are the ONLY solution if your device only outputs a digital signal and is incapable of driving analog VGA over the HDMI port. The cables like the one depicted here are not straight crossover cables from VGA to HDMI, either. The crossover cables are designed to send a digital HDMI signal over the VGA port's wires; that is, the wire protocol is HDMI (digital) but the physical pinout is the same as VGA, even though nothing analog is happening. Once again, this is not the behavior that, I believe, the devices which I'm talking about in this question are doing. The cabling and devices that this question is about transmit the analog VGA data over the HDMI port (the HDMI port is in the device outputting the data, and the VGA side is the monitor/projector).

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  • Windows Explorer slow to open networked computer, fast to navigate once opened

    - by Scott Noyes
    I open Windows Explorer and enter an IP for a computer on my home network (\\192.168.1.101). It takes 30 seconds or more to present a list of the shared folders. It does not appear to be an initial handshaking/authentication thing; even if I allow the view to load and then immediately load the same again, it is always slow. Once they appear, navigating through folders and opening files is fast. Also, navigating directly to a folder (\\192.168.1.101\My Music) is fast, even if it's the first connection since a restart. Using \\computerName instead of the IP address gives exactly the same results. Pings return in 1ms. net view \\computerName (or \ipAddress) returns the list of shared folders fast. This makes me suspect an Explorer issue rather than a network issue. Suspecting that the remote computer was being automatically indexed or something, I went into Tools-Folder Options-View and unchecked "Automatically search for network folders and printers," but that made no difference. De-selecting the "Folders" icon near the address bar makes no difference. Adding the IP address and computer name to the hosts file makes no difference. Both computers involved are laptops running Windows XP. Both have WiFi and cable adapters. Mine is not connected via cable. The result is the same whether the target is plugged in to the cable or not (although the IP address changes - 192.168.1.101 over cable, 192.168.1.103 over WiFi.) We are using DHCP assigned by the router.

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  • Broad Band LAN connection through existing 6 wire phone line ( no phone connected )

    - by Paul Taylor
    I have an (up to but never achieved ) 10 mb broadband signal coming into my house along the telephone line. The modem then connects the broadband signal via a LAN connection and Wi-Fi signal to my computers and iPad. My workshop desk is 54 yards (approx. 50m) downhill from the modem (part of a separate building) – too far to give a good direct signal. The inside corner of the workshop (by a window) receives a weak signal. I have a disconnected telephone cable consisting of 6 wires going from the house to the workshop. The telephone is no longer used in the workshop - we use our mobile number for business calls. A broad band signal using the cable would not have to share with a phone. What would be the most economic price/efficient way to get the broadband signal to the workshop? I am writing in hope that since the telephone didn't need the six wires, an Ethernet connection might be similar and not need all the eight wires for a LAN connection. In theory could use the telephone wire to pull an Ethernet cable trough the underground pipe but I doubt if the cable would survive the strain. The broad band connection in the workshop does not have to have network facility. My skill level is high enough to do house wiring, plumbing and gas fitting; so given any sound advice and a wiring diagram or instructions I can probably work out the rest myself.

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  • How to send from my Z88 to my PC

    - by Bevan
    I've got a Cambridge Z88 that I want to get working with my PC. Around 6 years ago - in 2004 - I made heavy use of my Z88 to do a whole bunch of writing on the train while commuting to and from work. The Z88 is solid state, lightweight and has a full size silent keyboard, so it works very well as a writing instrument. I still have the serial cable I soldered up back then and used successfully in 2004. It has these connections: Z88 9 pin ----- ------- 2 TxD ------> RxD 2 3 RxD <------ TxD 3 7 GND <-----> GND 5 4 RTS ------> CTS 8 5 CTS <-+ RTS 7 8 DCD <-+---- DTR 4 9 DTR ----+-> DCD 1 +-> DSR 6 Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find my notes from 2004 that describe how I got it to work back then. I've spent several hours trying to Google a result, but to no avail. I'm pretty sure the cable is fine - after all, it's what I used successfully six years ago, and I've checked it out with a multimeter - so I'm focusing on the PC end of things, which is where I'd like some assistance. Q1: In my recent attempts, I've been using both Hyperterminal (as built into Windows XP) and the command line (copy com2: con:), but with no success. What's a good (better!) serial communications application to use? Is there one that allows me to see as deep as the signalling that's occurring on the wire? Q2: If you have a Z88 that works correctly with your PC, what software do you use on the PC end, and what's the pinout of your cable? I'm pretty sure that the Z88 itself is working properly: When using the built in Import/Export tool to send a file, I see different behaviour when my serial cable is connected compared to disconnected. When disconnected, the transmission appears to work, with a progress meter counting up and then finishing; when connected, nothing happens 'cept a timeout if I wait long enough.

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  • Switched from DVI to HDMI, possible audio artifacts?

    - by I take Drukqs
    I'm using an ASUS VH236H monitor and an EVGA GeForce 570 GTX both of which are brand new. My monitor has an audio out port for speakers/headphones so I plugged in my headphones and made a random selection from my library when I noticed two things: There are static-like artifacts during "louder" parts of songs. There's what seems to be a volume cap in place. When I crank the volume past 100% in VLC the decibel level does not truly increase but the amount of static does. The cable is not new; I yanked it off of my PS3 when my DVI cable broke. It has been used a good amount on my HDTV and PS3 so I doubt it's a matter of burn-in. I like the way the setup works with an HDMI cable as opposed to DVI because my headphones barely reach my rig whereas I have plenty of slack when they're plugged into my monitor. Thanks in advance for any support. Note: I'm using a high quality HDMI cable from monoprice, AKG K702 headphones, and VLC media player.

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  • Gigabyte H55N-USB3: No video on HDMI

    - by newt
    I built a new PC with a Gigabyte H55N-USB3 / Intel Core i5 650. With a monitor plugged in the DVI port, everything works fine. I installed Windows 7 32-bit and enabled remote desktop connection. After that, I unplugged the monitor, plugged it into network and installed everything else (drivers, programs, etc) via RDP. However, when I try to use the HDMI port on my TV nothing appears. Neither during the boot, neither after Windows starts. The TV says there's "no signal" (if I remove the cable the message changes to "check cable"). The cable is new, and it is working fine with my home theater on same TV (by the way, it is the cable which came bundled with the home theater). Video driver is the latest from Intel site. Anyway, this shouldn't be the problem since there is no image during the boot. Any ideas or tips would be welcome. I'm googling around but found nothing useful, yet.

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  • wireless to wired internet

    - by Mark T
    My wife uses an old computer which doesn't really like having an internet connection via a USB wireless adapter. I've tried several, and none have been satisfactory. The connection gets dropped often and it is frustrating for her. A wireless card also had the same trouble. Repositioning the computer made no difference. (Two laptops, nearby, connect just fine and stay up, so it isn't the router.) However, the computer always worked well when I had an Ethernet cable connected to it. I know there is a box which will connect to my wireless network and provide an Ethernet cable connection. But the terminology used is so complex, I can't tell what it is I really need. In case that wasn't clear, here it is in different words: What I need is just the opposite of a wireless router. My wireless router takes my cable modem's Ethernet connection and makes it available to wireless clients. What I want is a box which is a wireless client to my wireless router and provides an Ethernet cable connection that I can connect to any device. I need to know the right name for a box with such capabilities. If you know of some inexpensive examples, that would also be helpful. I'm running a wireless G network with a Linksys Router.

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  • Route all traffic of home network through VPN

    - by user436118
    I have a typical semi advanced home network scenario: A cable modem - eth A wireless router (netgear n600) eth and wlan A home server (Running ubuntu 12.04 LTS, connected over wlan) A bunch of wireless clients (wlan) Lying around I have anoher cheaper wlan router, and two different USB wlan NIC's that are known to work with Linux. ACTA struck. I want to route ALL of my WAN traffic through a remote server through a VPN. For sake of completition, lets say there is a remote server running debian sqeeze where a VPN server is to be installed. The network is then to behave so that if the VPN is not operative, it is separated from the outside world. I am familiar with general system/network practices, but lack the specific detailed knowledge to accomplish this. Please suggest the right approach, packages and configurations you'd use to reach said solution. I've also envisioned the following network configuration, please improve it if you see fit: ==LAN== Client ip:10.1.1.x nm:255.0.0.0 gw:10.1.1.1 reached via WLAN Wlan router 1: ip: 10.1.1.1 nm:255.0.0.0 gw: 10.10.10.1 reached via ETH Homeserver: <<< VPN is initiated here, and the other endpoint is somewhere on the internet. eth0: ip:10.10.10.1 nm: 0.0.0.0 gw:192.168.0.1 reached via WLAN Homeserver: wlan0: ip: 192.168.0.2 nm: 255.255.255.0 gw: 192.168.0.1 reached via WLAN ==WAN== Wlan router 2: ip: 192.168.0.1 nm: 0.0.0.0 gw: set via dhcp uplink connector: cable modem Cable Modem: Remote DHCP. Has on-board DHCP server for ethernet device that connects to it, and only works this way. All this WLAN fussery is because my home server is located in a part of the house where a cable link isnt possible unfortunately.

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  • Create a wifi hotspot in a place where an authentication is required [closed]

    - by SoftTimur
    I live in a residence where Internet is provided via cable. Once the computer is connected to the cable, launching a browser will trigger an authentication, I have a username and password to enter, then the internet will be connected. With a gateway (e.g. Wireless Cable Voice Gateway Model CBVG834G) and 2 cables, two PCs can connect to the Internet with my account at the same time. Now the question is, I don't like the cable, and would like to create a wifi hotspot. It seems realizable with the same gateway. According to the instruction on page 2-4 of the manual: Enter http://192.168.0.1 in the address field of your Internet browser. Log in to the gateway with either of the default user names, MSO or admin... However, trying to open 192.168.0.1 gives me an error on the browser. Does anyone know what happened? Is it due to the authentication required by my residence? Is there any other way to build a hotspot of wifi? PS: My system is MAC OS

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  • Route all traffic of home network through VPN [migrated]

    - by user436118
    I have a typical semi advanced home network scenario: A cable modem - eth A wireless router (netgear n600) eth and wlan A home server (Running ubuntu 12.04 LTS, connected over wlan) A bunch of wireless clients (wlan) Lying around I have anoher cheaper wlan router, and two different USB wlan NIC's that are known to work with Linux. ACTA struck. I want to route ALL of my WAN traffic through a remote server through a VPN. For sake of completition, lets say there is a remote server running debian sqeeze where a VPN server is to be installed. The network is then to behave so that if the VPN is not operative, it is separated from the outside world. I am familiar with general system/network practices, but lack the specific detailed knowledge to accomplish this. Please suggest the right approach, packages and configurations you'd use to reach said solution. I've also envisioned the following network configuration, please improve it if you see fit: Client ip:10.1.1.x nm:255.0.0.0 gw:10.1.1.1 reached via WLAN Wlan router 1: ip: 10.1.1.1 nm:255.0.0.0 gw: 10.10.10.1 reached via ETH Homeserver: <<< VPN is initiated here, and the other endpoint is somewhere on the internet. eth0: ip:10.10.10.1 nm: 0.0.0.0 gw:192.168.0.1 reached via WLAN Homeserver: wlan0: ip: 192.168.0.2 nm: 255.255.255.0 gw: 192.168.0.1 reached via WLAN Wlan router 2: ip: 192.168.0.1 nm: 0.0.0.0 gw: set via dhcp uplink connector: cable modem Cable Modem: Remote DHCP. Has on-board DHCP server for ethernet device that connects to it, and only works this way. All this WLAN fussery is because my home server is located in a part of the house where a cable link isnt possible unfortunately.

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  • Can no longer duplicate display to external monitor on Windows 7

    - by rbeier
    We have a large TV at work - I connect my laptop to it to share my screen during meetings. Until today, my laptop display has been duplicating to the TV automatically when I connect the TV cable to the laptop. The display resolution would decrease automatically to be compatible with the TV. Today, however, it's stopped working. When I connect the cable to the TV, the display extends rather than duplicating. Using the Win+P key combination (or Fn+F7 on my Lenovo laptop), I can choose to duplicate the display - but when I do this, it ends up only displaying on the laptop. I can get it to display on the TV by hitting Win+P and choosing "projector only", but then I can't see what I'm doing on the laptop screen. I have a Lenovo W520 laptop running Windows 7, connected to the TV using a DisplayPort-to-HDMI converter cable. The TV's native resolution is 1280x720; the laptop's native resolution is 1600x900. I've tried booting with the TV cable already connected; I've tried manually lowering the display resolution on the laptop to 1280x720 before duplicating the display. Neither works. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

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  • How to Play PC Games on Your TV

    - by Chris Hoffman
    No need to wait for Valve’s Steam Machines — connect your Windows gaming PC to your TV and use powerful PC graphics in the living room today. It’s easy — you don’t need any unusual hardware or special software. This is ideal if you’re already a PC gamer who wants to play your games on a larger screen. It’s also convenient if you want to play multiplayer PC games with controllers in your living rom. HDMI Cables and Controllers You’ll need an HDMI cable to connect your PC to your television. This requires a TV with HDMI-in, a PC with HDMI-out, and an HDMI cable. Modern TVs and PCs have had HDMI built in for years, so you should already be good to go. If you don’t have a spare HDMI cable lying around, you may have to buy one or repurpose one of your existing HDMI cables. Just don’t buy the expensive HDMI cables — even a cheap HDMI cable will work just as well as a more expensive one. Plug one end of the HDMI cable into the HDMI-out port on your PC and one end into the HDMI-In port on your TV. Switch your TV’s input to the appropriate HDMI port and you’ll see your PC’s desktop appear on your TV.  Your TV becomes just another external monitor. If you have your TV and PC far away from each other in different rooms, this won’t work. If you have a reasonably powerful laptop, you can just plug that into your TV — or you can unplug your desktop PC and hook it up next to your TV. Now you’ll just need an input device. You probably don’t want to sit directly in front of your TV with a wired keyboard and mouse! A wireless keyboard and wireless mouse can be convenient and may be ideal for some games. However, you’ll probably want a game controller like console players use. Better yet, get multiple game controllers so you can play local-multiplayer PC games with other people. The Xbox 360 controller is the ideal controller for PC gaming. Windows supports these controllers natively, and many PC games are designed specifically for these controllers. Note that Xbox One controllers aren’t yet supported on Windows because Microsoft hasn’t released drivers for them. Yes, you could use a third-party controller or go through the process of pairing a PlayStation controller with your PC using unofficial tools, but it’s better to get an Xbox 360 controller. Just plug one or more Xbox controllers into your PC’s USB ports and they’ll work without any setup required. While many PC games to support controllers, bear in mind that some games require a keyboard and mouse. A TV-Optimized Interface Use Steam’s Big Picture interface to more easily browse and launch games. This interface was designed for using on a television with controllers and even has an integrated web browser you can use with your controller. It will be used on the Valve’s Steam Machine consoles as the default TV interface. You can use a mouse with it too, of course. There’s also nothing stopping you from just using your Windows desktop with a mouse and keyboard — aside from how inconvenient it will be. To launch Big Picture Mode, open Steam and click the Big Picture button at the top-right corner of your screen. You can also press the glowing Xbox logo button in the middle of an Xbox 360 Controller to launch the Big Picture interface if Steam is open. Another Option: In-Home Streaming If you want to leave your PC in one room of your home and play PC games on a TV in a different room, you can consider using local streaming to stream games over your home network from your gaming PC to your television. Bear in mind that the game won’t be as smooth and responsive as it would if you were sitting in front of your PC. You’ll also need a modern router with fast wireless network speeds to keep up with the game streaming. Steam’s built-in In-Home Streaming feature is now available to everyone. You could plug a laptop with less-powerful graphics hardware into your TV and use it to stream games from your powerful desktop gaming rig. You could also use an older desktop PC you have lying around. To stream a game, log into Steam on your gaming PC and log into Steam with the same account on another computer on your home network. You’ll be able to view the library of installed games on your other PC and start streaming them. NVIDIA also has their own GameStream solution that allows you to stream games from a PC with powerful NVIDIA graphics hardware. However, you’ll need an NVIDIA Shield handheld gaming console to do this. At the moment, NVIDIA’s game streaming solution can only stream to the NVIDIA Shield. However, the NVIDIA Shield device can be connected to your TV so you can play that streaming game on your TV. Valve’s Steam Machines are supposed to bring PC gaming to the living room and they’ll do it using HDMI cables, a custom Steam controller, the Big Picture interface, and in-home streaming for compatibility with Windows games. You can do all of this yourself today — you’ll just need an Xbox 360 controller instead of the not-yet-released Steam controller. Image Credit: Marco Arment on Flickr, William Hook on Flickr, Lewis Dowling on Flickr

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  • Where do SATA drives get their power when using a PCI SATA controller on oler PCs?

    - by Sukima
    I've been looking into PCI SATA controller cards online for an older PC and noticed that the ports only have the SATA cable connector and the Power supply does not have the SATA power connectors. I also had a few external eSATA drives which don't power up unless I also plugin the USB cable. Therefore I realize that SATA and eSATA do not carry power and need power else where. When converting older PCs to use a PCI SATA controller how do you provide power to the SATA drives? Anticipating the answer to be some kind of converter cable (which I was unable to search for) then can older power supplies handle added drives? (Assuming a 4 port SATA controller means 4 more drives the power supply has to endure). Or do you have to get a second poer supply and kinda jerry-rig it into an old case?

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  • graphics cards with no HDMI output

    - by Noam Gal
    I am currently looking at Gainward GTX260 896MB GS GLH, but I've seen it also on the x275 version - the card doesn't have an HDMI output, only two dvi and one tv out (s-video?). They claim they support HDMI using a dvi-HDMI converter. Will I get a true high definition quality on my TV (assuming it supports it) like that? Or is it not as good, and I should stick to cards that have an HDMI output (ATI), or pay way too much for x295? What about connecting the audio? The x260 comes with an internal spdif cable - does that mean I can connect my soundcard to my graphics card, and have the audio come out through the dvi, and into the HDMI cable? Or am I mixing it all up here, and I have to somehow connect the sound to the TV using a seperate cable (Hoping it has a seperate audio-in for the HDMI channel)?

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  • external HDD with SATA & USB interface? [closed]

    - by GregH
    Anyone know of an external HDD that would have (in addition to USB) a SATA (eSATA) port/cable? i.e. Brand/Model Background - In one location I want to use it is I would like to increase the performance by cabling it directly to the PC SATA port, HOWEVER I don't want to have to open up the PC to do this each time. I was thinking of running a SATA cable out through the PC case so I just plug it directly into the external HDD in question. Perhaps it should be also externally powered too so I don't need to run a power cable out from the PC power supply.

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