Search Results

Search found 2066 results on 83 pages for 'cable'.

Page 70/83 | < Previous Page | 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77  | Next Page >

• how does a computer know which IP address will route information to the internet? [closed]

  - by JohnMerlino

  Possible Duplicate: How does IPv4 Subnetting Work? For example, I have a computer with a Network Inteface Card (NIC) which is an Ethernet card that is connected by Ethernet cables to a router. There is also another computer with a cable that is connected in another port of the router. This is a Belkin router operating over an Ethernet in the LAN. When I connect to serverfault.com, it maps to an IP address. My computer now has a task of connecting to that IP address. But my computer itself cannot connect to the serverfault IP address. Only the router can. So the task of my computer is to find the IP address associated with the node that will do the routing to the public internet. How does my computer know that a particular IP address in the local network belongs to the router, and is not another computer connected to the network? Is this information configured manually in the operating system itself? Somehow my computer must know that it must send ethernet frames to the router with the expectation that the router will then send the packet to a public IP. How does it know to send it to the router? Is the router's ip address stored in my computer like a key/value pair e.g. "router"="192.168.2.6", so that when I put a public ip address, my computer first knows to connect to 192.168.2.6?

  Read the article

• Extending home network using multiple access point originating from another access point

  - by cyberjar09

  I have a home network with the current setup (RJ45 running from main router to access point) : +-------------+ +--------------+ | 192.168.2.1 | |192.168.2.2 | | router +--------------->access point 1| +-----^-------+ +--------------+ | | +-----+--------+ | 192.168.1.1 | | modem | +-----^--------+ | | | | +--+--+ | ISP | +-----+ However I would like to extend the network to two more floors in the house via the existing Access Point (router is too far and not reachable using a network cable, hence I need to extend using current access point). Please see diagram below : +-------------+ +--------------+ +----------------+ | 192.168.2.1 | |192.168.2.2 | | 192.168.2.3 | | router +--------------->access point 1+----------> access point 2 | +-----^-------+ +--------+-----+ +----------------+ | | | | +-----+--------+ | | 192.168.1.1 | | | modem | | +-----^--------+ | +----------------+ | +----------------> 192.168.2.4 | | | access point 3 | | +----------------+ | +--+--+ | ISP | +-----+ Q1 : is this setup possible? Q2 : if possible, will I have to do anything different from what I did to setup access point 1? edit 1 : I am trying to study the dd-wrt documentation to see which would be the correct mode of operation for me Linking Routers but Im confused because I dont see any info on how to use an existing Access point to extend the signal of the SSID. If anyone could point me to the correct wiki for how I should setup AP2 and AP3 based on AP1, it would be very helpful. For AP1, I did the following Use static IP and setup same SSID as primary wireless router use same security as primary wireless router make AP1 point to 192.168.2.1 (primary router) for DHCP Thanks in advance.

  Read the article

• Mac Grey/White Screen of Death

  - by cust0s

  The other night I updated my iTunes to the latest version (through Software Update) when I came to turn on my computer I was greeted with the dreaded white screen of death. I use an early 2008 iMac 24". I've tried the basic things, unplugging/turning off accessories, trying to boot from the install disk, reseting pram, etc, etc. Still no luck and no change what-so-ever. All I've been able to ascertain that my keyboard still works (by ejecting). I should point out that I did recently replace my Hard drive with a Western Digital Black 500GB (though the computer is well out of warrenty) and I'm a little concerned that the problem could be the screen. Update (18/05/10): I've been told that I could be getting the White/Grey screen of death because the optical flex cable is damaged (aparently this is common). Apparently the Optical Drive is part of the POST sequence, and an inability to read the drive can result in failure for the system to move on to other bootable volumes. More info here. I will disable the optical drive and see if that works.

  Read the article

• Abysmal transfer speeds on gigabit network

  - by Vegard Larsen

  I am having trouble getting my Gigabit network to work properly between my desktop computer and my Windows Home Server. When copying files to my server (connected through my switch), I am seeing file transfer speeds of below 10MB/s, sometimes even below 1MB/s. The machine configurations are: Desktop Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Windows 7 Ultimate x64 2x WD Green 1TB drives in striped RAID 4GB RAM AB9 QuadGT motherboard Realtek RTL8810SC network adapter Windows Home Server AMD Athlon 64 X2 4GB RAM 6x WD Green 1,5TB drives in storage pool Gigabyte GA-MA78GM-S2H motherboard Realtek 8111C network adapter Switch dLink Green DGS-1008D 8-port Both machines report being connected at 1Gbps. The switch lights up with green lights for those two ports, indicating 1Gbps. When connecting the machines through the switch, I am seeing insanely low speeds from WHS to the desktop measured with iperf: 10Kbits/sec (WHS is running iperf -c, desktop is iperf -s). Using iperf the other way (WHS is iperf -s, desktop iperf -c) speeds are also bad (~20Mbits/sec). Connecting the machines directly with a patch cable, I see much higher speeds when connecting from desktop to WHS (~300 Mbits/sec), but still around 10Kbits/sec when connecting from WHS to the desktop. File transfer speeds are also much quicker (both directions). Log from desktop for iperf connection from WHS (through switch): C:\temp>iperf -s ------------------------------------------------------------ Server listening on TCP port 5001 TCP window size: 8.00 KByte (default) ------------------------------------------------------------ [248] local 192.168.1.32 port 5001 connected with 192.168.1.20 port 3227 [ ID] Interval Transfer Bandwidth [248] 0.0-18.5 sec 24.0 KBytes 10.6 Kbits/sec Log from desktop for iperf connection to WHS (through switch): C:\temp>iperf -c 192.168.1.20 ------------------------------------------------------------ Client connecting to 192.168.1.20, TCP port 5001 TCP window size: 8.00 KByte (default) ------------------------------------------------------------ [148] local 192.168.1.32 port 57012 connected with 192.168.1.20 port 5001 [ ID] Interval Transfer Bandwidth [148] 0.0-10.3 sec 28.5 MBytes 23.3 Mbits/sec What is going on here? Unfortunately I don't have any other gigabit-capable devices to try with.

  Read the article

• Devices on one switch can't see devices on another switch

  - by jockey69

  I have RoadRunner Internet cable service hooked to a Motorola Surfboard modem. This is connected to a 10/100 wireless router (located in the garage). Downstairs, I have a ZyXEL GS-108b gigabit switch connected to one port on the router. From this switch I ran connections to a PS3, DVR, Vonage box and a wireless router (Buffalo AirStation 10/100). The Buffalo AirStation works as a wireless AP for other laptops, iPads and cell phones. Upstairs, I have an Asus gigabit switch connected to a gaming desktop, printer, and a media server on FreeNAS (PS3 Media Server on FreeNAS). The router is configured to assign static IPs to both the PS3 and the media server. Problem - I connect a laptop to the switch downstairs after disabling the wireless, thus making sure that I am accessing internet through the wired connection (and the router in the garage). All my computers, iPads and cell phones are able to connect to the internet without a problem. My PS3 connects to the interent with a wired connection but is unable to access the media server (I get a message that no media server is found). I used a wired laptop downstairs (connected to switch downstairs) but am unable to ping either the PS3 or media server! I may be doing something silly but am at my wits' end. Please help!

  Read the article

• Does the Lenovo t60p vga port support an s-video signal?

  - by Matthijs Wessels

  I just bought a new television. The problem is it turns out it doesn't have a VGA port. It does have: s-video, component, hdmi and scart. My Lenovo t60p only has vga. If have search frantically for a solution and even though it seems I have sooo many options they are all dead ends. Or I keep ending up having to buy a 100 euro box to convert the signal. However, I found that some video cards support s-video through the vga port. It says look it up in your video cards documentation. I have a Lenovo t60p laptop with a ATI MOBILITY FireGl v5250. But I can't seem to get my hands on any documentation where this is supposed to be documented. I found this website: http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=179529&highlight=s-video There this guy says he thinks it's in the t60 but dropped in the t61, but suggests to the guy with the t60 that it won't work. I can't really conclude anything from that. Furthermore, I am not looking for the best of the best quality. So when I found this: *http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Computor-Presentation-Converter-VGA2TV/dp/B000X3FAJU/ref=pd_cp_e_3_img I woudl be quite happy with this. Except that I don't think I can order it because I don't live in the US. Can anybody give me a definite answer, to whether the vga port of my lenovo t60p ati firegl v5250 supports s-video? So that I can just by a vga to s-video cable to achieve my goal.

  Read the article

• How to recover a Linksys WRT54GL router that has a blinking green power LED and no response from the

  - by Peter Mounce

  I was flashing the router with the Tomato firmware, but something went wrong; I'm not sure what. Now, the router responds to ping at 192.168.1.1 (my Mac's on a static IP 192.168.1.21), but the web-interface doesn't come up. I have read that this situation is recoverable in a [couple of places][2], but I haven't been having much success and so I wondered whether anyone could help. From my Mac (OSX 10.5) I have tried to tftp a new vanilla-Linksys firmware to the router and reboot; according to the trace, this sends it but the router behaves no differently after a reboot. I've read that if boot_wait is turned on, I'll have an easier time, but I haven't been able to find any instructions that tell me how I can tell whether I did this or not (I don't think I have, but I might have, when I tinkered the first time months ago - the router has worked since then, though). I have found a couple of references to [something called JTAG][3], which seems like some kind of [homebrew diagnostic cable thing][4], but that's a little beyond my ken. Happy to try it, with muppet-level instructions, though (I do software, not hardware!). So, I'm at a bit of a loss, really, and wondered whether anyone could provide me with the route (ha. ha.) out of this mess? Hm, I can't post all the links I wanted to until I have some more reputation.

  Read the article

• Network bridge does not work on Windows 7

  - by D. Strout

  I am trying to use Windows 7 to bridge my wireless and wired connections together to get wireless on a second Windows XP computer (fresh install). The network bridge is created successfully, but when I connect the cable from the first computer with the bridged connections to the second one with just a wired connection, nothing happens. The second computer doesn't connect, and the first computer shows no sign of anything different. I tried bridging the connections of a third computer, and connecting this computer to the second computer. This worked (third computer bridged the wireless to the second computer). Thus, the problem must be with the first (Win 7) computer. However, I have no idea what the problem could be. All Internet Connection Sharing is turned off. Homegroup is disabled (it was originally enabled, I thought that might be a problem, so I disabled it). Also, I had VMWare fusion installed, and that created extra items in the "This connection uses the following items" box in the properties dialog. Thinking this might be causing issues, I uninstalled that too. Still, with everything I tried, I can't get it to work. Any suggestions? Edit: Another thing I noticed that might be worth mentioning: The network icon in the Win7 taskbar has a red X on it that means it's not connected, but when I click the icon, it says connected next to my wireless connection, and I am able to access the internet.

  Read the article

• Host spreads wrong MAC Adress of router on the WIFI

  - by JavaIsMyIsland

  Strange things are going on our network. Since yesterday a host which is actually not on our subnet spreads wrong ARP Replys on our network. To be precise, only on the WIFI. If I connect my Laptop to the cable ethernet, it gets the right MAC adress of the router. Also my Android phone and my Ubuntu system do get the right MAC Adress. So I took a look at wireshark. When I clear the ARP cache of the windows machine, the first ARP response is correct and comes from the router. But like 10 ms later another ARP response comes from another host in the WIFI. The host changes its IP Adresses from time to time and they look like they are not on our subnet. So I can not use the internet because DNS is not working anymore. Sometimes the router wins the race condition and the mac adress is set correctly in the arp cache. I first thought, this is an arp-poisoning mitm attack but it does not make sense if the packets get not routed correctly?! I restarted the router but it didn't help. I have no access to the router, else I would change the shared key to make sure there is no intruder on the wifi.

  Read the article

• network latency, TCP and UDP packets

  - by user115848

  Hello recently my network has started to cause me lots of problems. I have a cable modem, connected to a tp-link router (with some port forwarding). Everything was working fine then i started to get lots of udp (port 53) "UNREPLIED" logs in the router. Now there are tcp UNREPLIED logs too. This is causing lots of latency and failed connections when trying to connect to different internet sites. Also, we run an openfire server for spark connections, and I believe its causing connectivity issues for some users who are trying to connect using Spark (some people connect fine, others don't). Please see screen shot below for packet logs. It has to be something internally, as I connected straight to the comcast modem and i was able to connect to the internet and various sites as normal. I tried to swap out the router with a different and got the same issue. I scanned both my internal dns servers for viruses or malware and it came up empty. Another anomaly is that when i try to connect to www.cnn.com, i get redirected to the different site. I scanned my own machine for hijacks. Not sure if this is related to the networking issue. Please let me know if you have any ideas for troubleshooting.

  Read the article

• OpenWrt vs DDWrt

  - by Ioan Paul Pirau

  I have a TP-Link Wr1043ND router and I want to install one of these two firmwares: OpenWRT DD-WRT I read that I can install custom packages and do much more than I can with the original firmware. I would like to ask someone with experience in using both OpenWRT and DD-WRT which he would recommend and why. And to give a few reference points I'm interested in: reliability – network stability both on cable and wireless and on the usb drive performance – network speed, very important also usb drive speed configurability – the possibility to add extensions such as a torrent client, FTP, SSH, WWW and SVN server directly ease of use – the ease of installation and configuration of the router support/docs – how much info there is if you stumble upon a problem and you have to find some documentation, or if there's any free support (but that's a longshot) Of course I don't imagine that I will find the perfect firmware and that one is vastly superior over the other. Also if there's anyone out there who uses one of these firmwares on a TP-Link Wr1043ND, it would be great to get some feedback about the impact of the changes from the original firmware. P.S. I'm open also for Tomato if it's the better one.

  Read the article

• Does Guest WiFi on an Access Point make any sense?

  - by uos??

  I have a Belkin WiFi Router which offers a feature of a secondary Guest Access WiFi network. Of course, the idea is that the Guest network doesn't have access to the computers/devices on the main network. I also have a Comcast-issues Cable Modem/Router device with mutliple wired ports, but no WiFi-capabilities. I prefer to only run one router/DHCP/NAT instead of both the Comcast Router and the Belkin Router, so I can disable the Routing functions of the Belkin and allow the Comcast Router to But if I disable the Routing functions of the Belkin device, the Guest WiFi network is still available. Is this configuration just as secure as when the Belkin acts as a Router? I guess the question comes down to this: Do Guest WiFi's provide security by 1) only allowing requests to IPs found in-front of the device, or do they work by 2) disallowing requests to IPs on the same subnet? 1) Would mean that Guest WiFi on an access point provides no benefit 2) Would mean that the Guest WiFi functionality can work even if the device is just an access point. Or maybe something else entirely?

  Read the article

• Error - "IR Hardware not detected" - but it's installed/working

  - by Robert

  I am trying to do: Settings-TV-Set up TV signal. During this process I am getting the error "IR Hardware not detected." With the remote, I can select the "try again" button (to re-detect) and it tries again, so the remote works. Plugging in the "IR blaster" doesn't change anything. (I wouldn't expect any difference, but I read a post which said you needed that. I will get Media Center to change channels if I can get that working - but first things first.) I was able to do the setup months ago when I had cable. and everything was fine. I just got DirecTV. (BTW - During the above process, Media Center detects the signal coming in on channel 3. Windows XP Media Center SP3. The TV Tuner card is a Pinnacle TCTV HD PCI. Everything - and I mean everything - has the latest firmware and drivers - as of 4 months ago when I fixed a different problem. So I DON"T WANT TO HEAR the standard answer to check drivers/firmware. THANK YOU.) Thanks for any help.

  Read the article

• Alternative software for Pinnacle PCTV 100e

  - by Stijn Sanders

  I have a Pinnacle PCTV 100e external USB cable television receiver. I've been using Pinnacle's software that came with the card (TVCenter Pro) to record things at given times. Things I don't like is an extremely high CPU load, and that it doesn't seem to halt the screensaver from running when watching in full screen. Also, I was away the last two weeks, and the schedules went terribly bust. Some items were recorded hours before or after the actual scheduled time (and now I missed some shows), and some recurring schedules weren't converted into the next occurrence correctly! Is there good alternative software that would work with my PCTV 100e? (Preferalby cheap or free) I've tried VLC Player, which gets video, but no audio. I've tried MediaPortal, which crashes when trying to scan for channels. When I select a channel manually, the stored mpg has big errors in encoding and is also missing audio. There's VirtualDub, but that doesn't have ready-made scheduled-recording options. This I can conjure some scheduled scripts for, but I've noticed the sync gets awfully wrong after some time. I've tried Windows Media Center, but it doesn't seem to support the PCTV 100e.

  Read the article

• Suggestions on the best home server rack cabinet

  - by allentown

  I have a lot of gear in a colocation facility right now. Some of it is going to come home with me now. I do not know anything about the "rack mount" side of the industry. I lease a rack, and I put my stuff in it. I have a few 1U boxes, a few 2U boxes, and a few 4U boxes. 1U switch. One is a new Xserve, which means it is deep. I think I can get by with around 12U to 18U. I want to keep it as small as possible, since I do not have a lot of spare space at my home. I will not be able to bolt to the wall, floor etc, so it should not be tall. This is something I would love to more or less just be a box that sits on the floor but gives me the ability to mount nicely, do nice cable management etc. Are the "post" style racks junk? I am liking the open space, and the no limitations on depth of something like this: http://www.rackmountsolutions.net/images/products/Martin-relay-rack.jpg However, that thing is way too tall, and probably way too expensive. I am looking to be around $300.00 or less. More if I have to, though I would prefer not to. These look near perfect: (See comment for this link, the system will not let me post a second url) but I am worried the Xserve will not fit in it. If anyone has any good links, or website recommendations of good past experience, I would appreciate it. I am almost considering that I may be able to build something with random scraps of stuff at Home Depot as well.

  Read the article

• External USB HD with -optional- mains?

  - by Stephen

  Hi, I'm Christmas-present-buying, and I'd appreciate recommendations for a USB HD with an optional mains power input. I've hunted, but can't find all the information I want (partially due to sketchy product specifications). Background: This is for a digital TV which I do not own, and so I'd like to get it correct first time. The TV has a USB port to allow recording straight to disk, but the manuals don't say how much power can be drawn through the USB port. The manual's instructions state, possibly generically, to plug the drive in before connecting to the TV. Ideally I'd like a small (2.5"?) drive which can draw power over USB, with an mains power input if it turns out the USB port on the TV doesn't offer enough juice. The ideal is to use one cable, two max. A powered USB hub would introduce too much clutter. I've spotted that the LaCie Petit drives have what appears to be an additional power input, but I'm not even sure from the specs what that is. And the device doesn't ship with a mains adapter. Suggestions?

  Read the article

• System freezes during boot process

  - by slugster

  Hi everyone, i have a machine running Win7 Ultimate. It was running fine, then it just froze - all the stuff i was doing was still on the screen, but mouse and keyboard input was ignored, any animation that was happening on the screen stopped, the machine literally just froze. So i rebooted (power off button), from then on the machine will reboot, but it ultimately freezes again. The instance when this happens will vary - i have made it as far as the Windows login screen, but mostly it will do the POST, then give me the option to press F1 to continue or Del to enter BIOS settings (but of course pressing a key has no effect - it's frozen!). I have disconnected everything not necessary for the boot process, the only peripheral that remains attached is the keyboard. (even the network cable is disconnected). Prior to this the machine was operating fine. The install of Win7 is only 2 days old, and it was a fresh reinstall (i.e. not an upgrade or repair). Can anyone give me an indication of what may be wrong here? I'm not sure if this question should be here or on SuperUser, please migrate it if i have chosen the wrong board.

  Read the article

• Intel NIC X540-T1 non-functional in Ubuntu Server 12.04

  - by Jeff Carr

  I have installed three Intel X540-T1's in servers running Ubuntu Server 12.04, but all are non-functional, no link lights, no packets sent or received, and no connection on ip4 or ip6 whether set up as dhcp or static. Also, dmesg doesn't detect cable connection or disconnection. I updated the default ixgbe driver to Intel's latest version (3.11.33) with no change. The ethernet controller is being reported as X540-AT2 (which might be a problem that I can't figure out how to fix), but the subsystem is X540-T1 so I believe that might be intended. Does anyone have any experience with this that could assist? ifconfig eth2 eth2 Link encap:Ethernet HWaddr a0:36:9f:14:5f:ea inet addr:192.168.101.1 Bcast:192.168.101.255 Mask:255.255.255.0 UP BROADCAST MULTICAST MTU:1500 Metric:1<br> RX packets:0 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0 TX packets:0 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0 collisions:0 txqueuelen:1000 RX bytes:0 (0.0 B) TX bytes:0 (0.0 B) ethtool -i eth2 driver: ixgbe version: 3.11.33 firmware-version: 0x8000037c bus-info: 0000:08:00.0 supports-statistics: yes supports-test: yes supports-eeprom-access: yes supports-register-dump: yes lspci -vvnns 08:00.0 08:00.0 Ethernet controller [0200]: Intel Corporation Ethernet Controller 10 Gigabit X540-AT2 [8086:1528] (rev 01) Subsystem: Intel Corporation Ethernet Converged Network Adapter X540-T1 [8086:0002] Control: I/O- Mem+ BusMaster+ SpecCycle- MemWINV- VGASnoop- ParErr+ Stepping- SERR+ FastB2B- DisINTx+ Status: Cap+ 66MHz- UDF- FastB2B- ParErr- DEVSEL=fast >TAbort- <TAbort- <MAbort- >SERR- <PERR- INTx- Latency: 0, Cache Line Size: 32 bytes Interrupt: pin A routed to IRQ 16 Region 0: Memory at e8000000 (64-bit, prefetchable) [size=2M] Region 4: Memory at e8200000 (64-bit, prefetchable) [size=16K] [virtual] Expansion ROM at e8280000 [disabled] [size=512K] Capabilities: <access denied> Kernel driver in use: ixgbe Kernel modules: ixgbe

  Read the article

• ESX hosts lose connectivity with iSCSI SAN LUNs

  - by Themist

  I've been experiencing this issue for a couple of months now where my ESX hosts lose connectivity with my iSCSI SAN vmfs volumes. As a results the ESX hosts enter a nonresponsive mode the associated VMs disconnect and the only remedy is to reboot the host. This issue happens randomly . I have escalated this issue with VMWare but I haven't had any solution to the issue yet. I see no errors on my switches and there are no hardware issues as well. My SAN infrastucture is solid and there are 2 paths for every vmfs volume. Did anybody else experienced a similar issue? edit: Here are some more details: The iSCSI SAN software is Datacore Sanmelody 2.0.4.2 running on 2 HP Proliant G5 servers. The storage attached to each of the servers is an HP MSA70 and all the iSCSI SAN Volumes that are presented to my 4 ESX hosts are mirrored. I have two iSCSI swithces HP Procurve 1800G-24 that are trunked together. My SANLELODY servers are using NC360T NICs. I team two NICs and have one cable connecting to each iSCSi switch. Each ESX server uses two NICs as well for the iSCSI Network.

  Read the article

• How to fix display on external Samsung Syncmaster shifted to the right when connected to Macbook Pro?

  - by joe larson

  Is there something special I need to do to be able to use external LCD displays with my new MacBook Pro? Do I need extra software, or do I possibly need a different cable? I'm attempting to use an external display with my MBP. I've got a "Mini DisplayPort to VGA Female Adapter for Mac", plugged into the thunderbolt port on my MBP, which I understood should be compatible with thunderbolt. I've tried this with three different SyncMaster models: a B2330 (21.5"), a EX2220 (22"), and a third (also 22" ish) which I don't have the model # for -- but all are 1920x1080 resolution; plus an additional HP monitor of similar size and resolution. In all four cases, the MBP recognizes the screen and choses the correct resolution. However, the display is shifted over about 1 inch. This is true no matter if I change screen resolutions also. The controls on the monitor for horizontal position don't help. Also, sometimes (especially if I drag an app over into the second screen), the screen starts skipping left to right and having bands of fuzz. Additionally, the monitor will periodically blink off for a moment, trying to switch from Digital to Analog and back (the Syncmaster shows text on the screen to tell you it's trying to do this). Often when it comes back from one of these blank-outs, it will show OK (no skipping or fuzz) but still shifted right; then after a few seconds it will go wrong again skipping and fuzzy. This photo shows the worst of it. I've added red rectangles to show the physical edge of the screen, and a yellow rectangle to show the empty space on the left of the screen. (Sorry for the awful quality and lighting!) Also, it's worth noting I am on Mac OS X 10.6.7, and yes I have this update 1.4 installed.

  Read the article

• System freezes during boot process

  - by slugster

  Hi everyone, i have a machine running Win7 Ultimate. It was running fine, then it just froze - all the stuff i was doing was still on the screen, but mouse and keyboard input was ignored, any animation that was happening on the screen stopped, the machine literally just froze. So i rebooted (power off button), from then on the machine will reboot, but it ultimately freezes again. The instance when this happens will vary - i have made it as far as the Windows login screen, but mostly it will do the POST, then give me the option to press F1 to continue or Del to enter BIOS settings (but of course pressing a key has no effect - it's frozen!). I have disconnected everything not necessary for the boot process, the only peripheral that remains attached is the keyboard. (even the network cable is disconnected). Prior to this the machine was operating fine. The install of Win7 is only 2 days old, and it was a fresh reinstall (i.e. not an upgrade or repair). Can anyone give me an indication of what may be wrong here? I'm not sure if this question should be here or on SuperUser, please migrate it if i have chosen the wrong board.

  Read the article

• How do I use a Minitel terminal as a linux dumb terminal

  - by Pawz

  I recently purchased a US version of the Alcatel Minitel terminal. I think it's a 1B version. Pictures of it here: I tried connecting a null modem to the 25 pin port on the back and plugging it into a linux box running agetty but I couldn't get it to show any signs of being connected. I used Google Translate to translate this document into English: http://mirabellug.org/wikini/upload/Documentations_minitel.pdf As far as I can tell, you take it out of videotex mode by typing Fcnt-T A, then turn off local echo with Fcnt-T E, then set it to 4800 baud with Fcnt-P 4. I presume Fcnt refers to the "CTRL" key on my terminal. But I think I'm doing something wrong, because it doesn't look like it's recognising the keystrokes, because "Fcnt-T A" just prints the letter A to the screen, which is not what you'd expect a function key combo to do. Has anyone used these minitel terminals as a linux terminal, and if so, please can you share how to configure the minitel to run as a terminal ? Is the 25 pin plug even the correct port to use ? I read something online that indicated you're supposed to use the 5 pin DIN plug instead, is that right ? If so, what's the 25 pin plug for ? If I am supposed to use the DIN plug, does anyone know the pinouts so I can make a cable ?

  Read the article

• How can I wipe my iPod classic and fix any bad sectors on the hard drive without killing it?

  - by Sam Meldrum

  My iPod never finishes syncing and only syncs audio, not pictures or video - any ideas as to how I can fix it? My iPod classic 160GB worked well for a couple of years. I used to sync a lot of photos at full resolution to it, but this recently stopped working after I moved to Windows 7. iTunes is on latest version - 9.1.1.12 iPod software is up to date - 1.1.2 Windows 7 is fully up to date and patched The symptoms are that the iPod will start to sync, all audio (music and podcasts will sync successfully) but the syncing will then just appear to continue - itunes message: Syncing iPod. Do not Disconnect. This sync never completes - I have left it trying for days. I have tried resetting the iPod using the Restore button, whereupon it restarts sync from default options and again will sync audio, but nothing else. I suspect that something has gone wrong on the hard-drive - either a bad sector or some corrupt data. Is there a process I can go through to fix this? E.g. SpinRite or a format? If so how do I go about formatting an iPod and will it be recognised as an iPod after format and work as normal? Any advice on what to try next much appreciated? Update I have eliminated problems with the files, PC or iTunes as they sync fine to other iPods. I have also eliminated the cable by trying different cables which work with other iPods. What I'd really like to know is if there is any way to more fundamentally wipe the iPod safely, attempt to repair any bad sectors on the hard drive and then start from scratch. Anyone ever managed this?

  Read the article

• HP G61 Laptop wont boot- display stays off, caps and num lock indicators blink repeatedly

  - by Benguy12

  I had my HP G61 laptop running in sleep for a while. When I came back to it about a half-hour later, it was no longer in sleep mode - the power light and the Wi-Fi indicator light were on (I keep Wi-Fi off becuase I use a wired connection) - but nothing was showing on screen. In fact, the display wasn't even turned on. So I let it sit for about 10 minutes but nothing happened. I did a force shut down and rebooted. Instead of a normal boot, the display didnt turn on, the Wi-Fi indicator was off, and the Caps Lock and Num Lock lights just blinked repeatedly. On the external keyboard i use, none of the light indicators were blinking or even on. I tried force shut-down again 10 times, then unplugged all connections except for the power cable (my laptop battery dosent hold a charge for more than 2 minutes, so I always must have a wall connection) and tried to boot again but still nothing happened. I unplugged the battery and even then nothing happened. I also tried booting with the disk drive open, and then with it closed again. On the time it was closed, I was able to successfully boot into Windows, but recieved a "Windows did not shut-down sucessfully" notice. Does anybody know why this may have happened? My PC's specs: Windows 7 Home Premium, 64-bit 4GB of physical RAM, 8GB of vRAM (on a flash drive) AMD Vision x64 processor (don't know any other specs about it) ATI Radeon graphics card, 392 MB DVD-R/W lightscribe drive 2 External hard-disks (first one is 1.5TB, second one is 1TB) custom boot-screen and boot-annimation Standard BIOS apps running before sleep: firefox 10.4 itunes 10.6 adobe photoshop extended CS5.1 rockstar games social club (running in background) microsoft powerpoint 2010 professional edition google chrome I was NOT running Aero or any fancy themes - I was using the normal windows classic theme. I have a desktop icon manager application called Stardock Fences that was also running (it runs as a service/process).

  Read the article

• Loss of network connectivity when playing video on Optoma HD180 projector

  - by Jeff Fohl

  Hi Folks - New to Super User, so I hope this question fits in with the guidelines. Very strange problem I am having, and I am at a loss as to how to continue troubleshooting this one. The basic problem is that when I attempt to watch streamed video on a particular display device (an Optoma HD180 projector), my network connectivity drops like a stone to barely measurable levels. This is my setup: I have a Dell H2C 730x running Windows 7 64bit. This particular computer has two ATI Radeon HD 4800 video cards. I have two Samsung 22" monitors connected to one card, and an Optoma HD180 digital projector connected to the other card via an HDMI cable. My internet connection is normally a reliable 6Mbps. The problem I am having occurs when I stream video (or even just browse the web) on the Optoma Projector. When I do this, my internet connection drops to practically zero (just a few kilobits per second). When I move the browser away from the projector, and over to one of my Samsung monitors, the internet connection comes right back. Note that the Optoma projector is on and enabled as a third monitor all this time. I can move the mouse around on the projector without triggering the problem. I tried pinging my router when I was playing a movie on one of the monitors, and I get a 1 millisecond response. However, when I have the movie playing on the Optoma projecter, pinging the router gives me response times in the hundreds of milliseconds, or times out completely. So, it clearly is something local to my machine - and not some sort of throttling occurring down the line. I would think that it is possibly something to do with the HDMI driver conflicting somehow with my network driver (which is a USB-based wireless connection). This one has me really stumped. Anyone have any ideas?

  Read the article

< Previous Page | 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77  | Next Page >