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• Multi monitor setup with a tv as well?

  - by jasondavis

  I have always had a dual monitor setup for my pc's for years now. I am now in the market to build a new PC and get some new stuff. I need some help or advice on how to run 3 monitors WITH a 4th display which will be a lcd/plasma tv. So I am thinking I can get 2 video cards and that will give me all the hookups to run 3 monitors instead of 2. I will mount all 3 monitors in a row side by side and above them on the wall I would like to mount a larger 30-40+ inch lcd or plasma tv. I would then like to hook up my atelite/cable to this tv just as I would normally hook up a tv but I would like to also be able to have an option to view my PC o this tv as well. I know that is possible but would it be possible to view my PC on that tv and also still view my 3 other monitors and have the TV be a 4th display, where I could dock a different app/window in windows in all 4 displays (3 monitors + tv) ?? Please tell me any tips/advice on how to do this including what cables/software if any/converters/ you name it. Thanks for any help

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• Tomato/DD-WRT router to act as switch & only NAT some port

  - by fseto

  BACKGROUND: I have a device that must use a real IP address. Currently, my ISP uses DHCP and I can have up to 4 real IP address assigned. However, the cable modem only have 1 ethernet port and it's connected to my router (running Tomato, but can run DD-wrt or other Openwrt if required). Question stems from how I can connect the additional device, requiring a real IP? EASY SOLUTION: would be to get a switch and connect to the CM, Router, and Device. But alas, I want to avoid this route, since: my wiring cabinet in my home is drawing lots of power and heat already Device will be unprotected by any firewall unable to monitor the traffic to/from device. Besides, what would be the FUN in that? =) IDEA: So what I want to do is to configure the router, so that one of the switchport is removed from the normal br0 bridge. Instead, I want to make it behave like a switch on the WAN port. What's the best way of doing this? Should I create another bridge on the WAN & the device port? Can a single port belongs to two bridges? or would I need to create a subinterface first? Would I need a DHCP-relay? Am I expecting too much from my poor cheapie router? +------+ | CM | +--++--+ || +----WAN---------------+ | / \ Router | | BR1? BR0 | | | \ | | | {NAT} | | | / | | \ | +-P0----P1-P2-P3-Wifi--+ | +------+ |Device| +------+

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• Is it possible for a faulty processor to cause audio static/noise?

  - by Tom

  I have a Core 2 Extreme processor I received from a friend and have set up an XBMC box using it. However, I constantly get audio static whenever playing any music or videos. Here is a video of the sound: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqKQkxYRVA4 I have tried replacing everything short of the case and the processor, including cables, audio interfaces, operating systems, ram, etc, leading me to think it might be either the case shorting out the motherboards I have tried or a faulty processor. Is it possible for a faulty processor to cause audio static/noise? Any feedback would be appreciated. Edit - Here's a list of things I have tried: Reinstalling OS Installing/upgrading/repairing PulseAudio/Alsa Installing alternate OSes, straight Ubuntu, Lubuntu, Xubuntu, Arch, Mint, Windows 7 Switching audio from the external card to internal Optical, audio out through HDMI, audio out through headphones Different ports on receiver (my main desktop sounds fine on the same sound system) Different optical cables Unplugging everything unnecessary from the motherboard (1 HD, 1 Stick of Ram, 1 Keyboard) Swapping out ram Swapping out the motherboard Replacing the Graphics Card (was replaced due to fan being noisy, not specifically for this problem) Different harddrives Swapping power supply Disabling onboard audio Switching Power Cable Plugging in through surge protector Plugging into different outlet on separate circuit

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• Green flickering pixels that move with black images

  - by user568458

  Strange question... Occasionally, on my LCD screen, pixels that should be black flicker rapidly and constantly between black and green, about 4 flickers a second. The crazy part is, unlike dead/stuck pixels, they are relative to content on the screen and move with it. For example, I might be looking at a web page with a picture that has lots of black. There might be a couple of green flashing pixels in that black that shouldn't be there. I scroll the page, and the green flickering pixels move with the image. It seems that everyphysical pixel is fine, but somehow something interprets part of the image in a way that causes flickering green... It's not just in a web browser. My first thought was to blame a trolling blogger cunningly uploading an animated gif that simulates a failing pixel... but it happens in a wide range of applications. It seems to occur randomly, other than that it seems to only occur in areas of pure black, and it's always pure 100% green. It happens rarely enough that it's not a big deal, but it's such a strange problem it bugs me. I can't find any info on anything like this. I'm not even sure if it's hardware or software. Any ideas? (windows 7 laptop connected to LCD by DVI to HDMI cable)

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• how to set up dual wireless routers (G and N) with single broadband connection

  - by user15973

  A local cafe has an 802.11g wireless router attached to either an 8- or 12Mbs broadband connection. Although many customers still have -g devices, an increasing number are showing up with 802.11n devices (e.g. Mac laptops, iPads). The cafe owner is content with his router's area coverage, but he would like for his customers to be able to take advantage of the higher -n download speeds. He could simply replace the -g router with a -n router, but reportedly -n routers slow down considerably when servicing both -g and -n connections. Another option would be to buy the -n router, run an Ethernet cable between the two routers, and (of course) hook up the broadband connection to one of the two routers. Still another option would be to attach an ordinary, wired switch to the broadband connection and then attach both routers to the switch. Aside from the cost issue, what are the tradeoffs of those approaches? Which would you recommend, and why? Is there a better option than the ones I mentioned? Thank you in advance for your advice.

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• Is there a realiable way to troubleshoot wake up from sleep in Windows?

  - by Borek

  Is there a reliable way to troubleshoot laptop wakes? I've seen "heuristics" posted here and there but isn't there really a simple and deterministic way to tell what's causing a problem? Specifically, my laptop wakes up about every hour for about 2 minutes. Exported event log entries are here: http://www.mediafire.com/?abcqb00v5wyo6pj. I've tried: powercfg -devicequery wake_armed Empty result set. Scheduled tasks - the main ones are not scheduled to run every hour. When go through a long list of all possible tasks, there are some that are set to be triggered every hour (e.g., MS "RacTask" whatever it is). But when I go to power options, Advanced settings, Sleep, Allow wake timers it is set to "Disable". Also, the specific task is not set to wake the computer if necessary. Power options for my Ethernet card don't enable it to wake the computer - the cable is disconnected anyway. There are no other HW devices attached - no USB disks, no keyboards / mice etc. I am really clueless and quite unhappy that it's so hard to troubleshoot this situation.

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• Netflix streaming stops loading at 98% on Revo 3700

  - by Martin Harris

  I'm trying to stream Netflix on an Acer Revo 3700 running Windows 7 Home Premium, but it hangs on the loading screen at 98% (after it has formatted the player to the right aspect ratio and added the controls, but before the video starts) with no error messages or failures. I have two other machines on the same network, one running Windows 7 Home Premium and another running XP, which both stream faultlessly. Things I have tried: Both a wired and wireless connection to the router Upgrading the video and audio drivers IE, Chrome and Firefox Boxee software Connecting with a VGA cable instead of HDMI (in case it is a HDCP thing) Uninstalling and reinstalling Silverlight. Getting someway into loading a HD movie and turning "Allow HD" off Does anyone know what Netflix is doing at the 98% load mark? Are there any log files? Anything else worth trying? Full disclosure: I'm using Netflix from the UK through a US based VPN. I've tried multiple VPNs and the problem is exactly the same, also the other machines on the same network through the same VPN work fine so I don't think this is the issue, but it might be a factor. The region check happens at around 7% and I get past that.

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• can't get to admin page after factory reset netgear wg602

  - by stefanB

  I have wireless Netgear wg602 on my home network (connected to my internet modem/router). I've had it secured and locked down to only accept connection from specific MAC addresses. I've forgotten the password that I used but my Mac Book laptops can still connect (multiple OS updates - it can't retrieve and display the password but it can use it to log in to WPA) so I want to reconfigure it from scratch (have some new devices). I tried to reset the Netgear wg602 to factory settings (pressed reset button for 10 sec), reset my laptop IP address to local address suggested in manual (192.168.0.210 net mask 255.255.255.0), connect Netgear via ethernet cable to my mac book pro but I can't get to the admin page at 192.168.0.227 as suggested by manual (firefox or safari). At this stage the Netgear is not connected to router, it is only connected to mac book. I can't ping the wireless access point either (but it is on all lights are on). What am I doing incorrectly? Last time I configured it via Windows now I only have Mac Book (which I've used with the wireless access point for 2 years so no compatibility problems).

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• debian 6 losing a large amount of packets

  - by Sc0rian

  I have a rather strange problem. We covered all the obvious hardware related issues (different nic, eth cable and switch) however I cannot seem to stop eth dropping packets. I have 4 servers all exactly the same. driver: e1000e version: 1.2.20-k2 firmware-version: 1.8-0 bus-info: 0000:06:00.0 They are all running the latest kernel(2.6.32-5-amd64). However they do this: RX packets:17073870634 errors:0 dropped:14147208 overruns:0 frame:0 another server: eth0 Link encap:Ethernet HWaddr e0:69:95:05:2f:cb inet addr:10.10.10.86 Bcast:10.10.10.255 Mask:255.255.255.0 UP BROADCAST RUNNING MULTICAST MTU:1500 Metric:1 RX packets:5455209277 errors:0 dropped:375445 overruns:0 frame:0 TX packets:3666134366 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0 collisions:0 txqueuelen:1000 RX bytes:6688414486673 (6.0 TiB) TX bytes:1611812171539 (1.4 TiB) Interrupt:20 Memory:d0600000-d0620000 eth1 Link encap:Ethernet HWaddr 00:1b:21:b7:7a:ce inet addr:10.10.0.86 Bcast:10.10.0.255 Mask:255.255.255.0 UP BROADCAST RUNNING MULTICAST MTU:1500 Metric:1 RX packets:15473695728 errors:0 dropped:5808325 overruns:0 frame:0 TX packets:20112364421 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0 collisions:0 txqueuelen:1000 RX bytes:9192378766434 (8.3 TiB) TX bytes:20216368266761 (18.3 TiB) Interrupt:17 Memory:d0280000-d02a0000 A massive amount of dropped packets. I have tried to load on the latest driver, 1.9.5. This did nothing. I'm not sure what else to do.

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• Why can't I connect to my router's config page with Windows 7?

  - by user17940

  I've got a Belkin wireless router, and just bought a new Dell computer with Windows 7 pre-installed. I can connect to the Internet and my home network just fine, but when I try to visit my router's configuration page at http://192.168.2.1, I get a "Connection was reset" error. Nothing I do will make the router's configuration page come up in my web browser. More background information: I could always get to the router's config page from my Windows XP machine. I never had any trouble prior to getting this Windows 7 computer. I can ping 192.168.2.1 successfully from my Windows 7 computer. My PC is connected to the router by a physical CAT5 cable, not via wireless. Every device connected to my router, including the new computer, can get to the Internet with no problem. Here are some things that did not solve the problem: I tried turning off IPV6 in Windows. I tried turning off my firewall and antivirus software I tried using https instead of http I tried disabling and then enabling the network connection in Windows I tried reverting my network card driver back to an older version I have tried both Firefox and Internet Explorer web browsers. Has anyone experienced something like this before, and solved it? Thanks a lot for your help!

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• Burners freezing the PC when starting lead write in

  - by steve

  hi guys ,am having trouble with new pioneer dvdr-219l dual layer burners ,have replaced old burners with these dual layer ones . they are sata attached ,have tried img burn, xbox360 cookie burner, dvd decrypter, dvd flick , the burners seem ok burning cd and normal dvds but when trying to burn an iso to dual layer they will both freeze at the lead in write , the pc freezes including alt/delete mouse etc so have to re-boot,have tried uninstalling all burning programs that i have to eliminate conflicts and re-installing 1 at a time to see if that was the problem , still no solution am starting to think that maybe i have a bad sata cable the pc and burners dont seem to talk to each other when trying to burn dual layer ,any suggestions ???? this problem is giving me the shits ,ran microsofts fix it program and it said i had no burners installed that were capable of burning , i have had a look at device manager and the burners are there and when trouble shooted it says they are working ok , have noticed in device manager that the driver for these burners is from B.H.A.corporation file version 8.0.0.5. copyright 2000-2006 and they are not digitally sighned these burners are the latest models so how com the drivers are so old ...help please . steve

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• Downmix surround to Dolby Pro-Logic at the OS/driver level in Windows 7?

  - by davr

  First off, I'm talking about Dolby Pro-Logic, a really old tech for encoding 4 audio channels (L/R/C/SR) into two analog outputs, and then extracting them again. It was used in surround sound systems in the last century. I have a modern PC that can output 5.1 analog audio (Three outputs on the back carry six channels of audio). But I have a really old surround sound reciever that only has a two-channel, L/R input, which it extracts 4 channels of audio from, and outputs to 5.1 speakers. What I want is some way for the OS, Windows 7, to act as if I really had 5.1 audio channels available, so applications produce surround audio, but before outputting it out of the back of my PC, apply Dolby Pro-Logic matrix encoding so that it outputs over only two channels. These two channels would then get sent to my receiver via a RCA cable, which would decode it again and drive the surround speakers. Is anything like this possible? I'm pretty sure I could do it at an application / codec level, but I'm looking for something that I just have to set once.

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• Wake-on-lan only works so many times

  - by Chance

  I have Wake-on-lan configured on my Windows XP machine so that the computer will wake up from Standby. Waking the computer from Standby via network traffic seems to work a certain number of times, say 4 or 5, then it stops working. If I restart the computer it seems to reset this behavior so that I can use WOL a few more times before it starts working. I use the command "wol" on my other, Linux machine with the appropriate IP address and MAC address of the card. I looked at the network card to see if it had different lights when WOL worked and when it didn't. When it has a solid amber light where the ethernet cable connects, WOL seems to work. When it has a flashing amber light, WOL does not. It seems that the system seems to almost "shut off" the card when it falls to sleep, but I don't know if this is a function of time or number of standby/wakeups. I have a 3Com 3c920 network card. If I look at the properties in Device Manager, I have "Allow this Device to bring the Computer out of Standby" checked. In the Advanced tab I have anything related to RWU (Remote Wake Up) enabled. I also believe I have the appropriate settings in BIOS related to Remote Wake-Up and I have tried both S1 and S3 power configurations in the BIOS. Intuitively, I would think I would uncheck "Allow the Computer to turn off this device to save power", but doing so disables the "Allow this Device to bring the Computer out of Standby" option. Does anyone know what is happening here or if there is a way to fix it? I have an integrated network card; would getting one that goes into a slot be better? I am running Windows XP on a Dell Optiplex GX240 with a 3Com 3c920 network card.

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• Is there any way to force my Linux box to always boot up with a self-assigned IP address?

  - by Jeremy Friesner

  This is perhaps an unusual request: I'm trying to get a Debian Linux box to always give itself a self-assigned IP address (i.e. 169.254.x.y) on boot. In particular, I want it to do that even when there is a DHCP server present on the LAN. That is, it should not request an IP address from the DHCP server. From what I can see in the "man interfaces" text, there is an option for "manual", and an option for "dhcp". Manual assignment won't do, since I need multiple boxes to work on the same LAN without requiring any manual configuration... and "dhcp" does what I want, but only if there is no DHCP server on the LAN. (A requirement is that the functionality of these boxes should not be affected by the presence or absence of a DHCP server). Is there a trick that I can use to get this behavior? EDIT: By "no manual configuration", I mean that I should be able to take this box (headless) to any LAN anywhere, plug in the Ethernet cable, and have it do its thing. I shouldn't have to ssh to the box and edit files to get it working each time it is moved to a different LAN.

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• How do I fix error 1303 during TI Connect install?

  - by smoth190

  I recently purchased a TI-84 Plus graphing calculator, and I'm trying install the TI Connect software in order to connect the calculator to my computer via the USB cable. Unfortunately, I'm getting this error while trying to install the program: Error 1303. The installation has insufficient privileges to access this directory: E:\Data\Timothy\Documents\MyTIData. The installation cannot continue. Log on as administrator or contact your system administrator. However, my account is the only account on my PC, and it has administrative privileges. I've also tried running the installer with Run as Administrator, but with no luck. If I create the folder MyTIData manually, I receive this error: Error 1317. An error occurred while attempting to create the directory: E:\Data\Timothy\Documents\MyTIData I've reapplied the security settings to the E:\Data folder (and all its sub-directories) to Full for my account. I've also gone into Computer Management, and given SYSTEM full privileges for the entire disk. I've also logged out, logged back in, restarted, etc. but still, no luck. Now, I should mention that my Documents folder is not at the default location. I changed it due to my C: disk being a 90GB SSD, so I moved all my personal data onto the extra storage disk (which is ~1TB). I don't know if that is causing the issue, but it can't hurt throwing it out there. So why can't I install this program? Google'ing the problem brings up this error for various other installers (such as Visual Studio and Microsoft Office), but nothing for TI Connect. All the solutions are the same: Give the folder Full privileges...but I've already done this! I've also tried running the installer with and without the calculator plugged in, but it didn't change anything. In the prompt that contains the error, repeatedly clicking Retry or waiting a few moments before clicking Retry also produces no result.

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• Sudden and frequent hangs on desktop computer: mobo or CPU fault?

  - by djechelon

  I have a desktop computer equipped with an ASUS Crosshair 2 Formula and a Phenom x6 3.2GHz CPU. My problem is that often the computer will hang all of a sudden, completely stopping responding. When that occurs, reset key is inoperative and power button turns the computer off but is unable to turn it back on. I have to physically disconnect power cable. The problem can occur anytime, when I'm booting Windows, when I'm logging in, when I'm listening to a song, when I'm browsing Internet, etc. It always occurs after very few minutes of 3D gameplay I thought it was a video card fault. I had 3 8800GTX so I could try all combinations of them: didn't fix I thought it was a RAM problem: I tried running with only a subset of my DDR2 banks but didn't fix. Almost every time I have to reset and reconfigure BIOS (without AHCI, Win7 won't boot, so I need to restore a few things). If I enable AMD Live, Cool&Quiet or other things from CPU configuration menu I'll be sure that the computer won't reach Windows desktop in 99% of cases (it randomly hangs somewhere in the boot process or even in the BIOS POST). Another interesting thing is that during the POST process the computer always takes unusually long time detecting USB devices (LCD POSTer shows USB INIT), and I've also tried disconnecting all USB devices but didn't take less time to POST BIOS revision is 2702, the latest. Today I found a different behaviour once: during boot screen I got a BSOD with error Stop 0x00000101 A clock interrupt was not received on a secondary processor within the allocated time interval, and this is usually related to overclocking, but I never overclocked my CPU. Judging from the description of my problem, hoping someone had the same and fixed, and since I don't have a spare CPU or motherboard for replacement, I'd like to ask if you think this is a problem with faulty CPU or faulty motherboard, and if I can perform additional tests (I mean software tests because of my lack of spare components) to identify the component to replace.

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• Configure a Windows PC as network appliance w/o monitor, keyboard and mouse

  - by Joshua Lim

  I intend to use a small form factor PC with Windows 7 Professional installed as a network appliance attached directly to my customer's LAN without connecting a monitor, keyboard or mouse. How should I configure the networking for my PC so that I can access it via say my laptop? I figure that I can do it 2 ways. Attach my laptop to the PC using a crossover cable? Connect via RDP and configure networking. Configure an IP address on the PC before I deliver it to the customer place. At the customer's place, attach the PC to LAN and connect to the IP address which I previously configured from my laptop or from one of the customer's workstations. I know the first way is doable, but is the second way possible? I'm sorry if this question sounds ridiculous - I am Delphi programmer but a novice on networking. Finally, if possible, I hope to make the configuration process web based as I wouldn't like to reveal the fact that I am using Win7 Pro for the network appliance!

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• CPU temperatures high on new build after gaming

  - by Reznor

  My friend had a problem with his computer a while back. His games were crashing, even within the menus. He was stumped as to what the problem was, so I posted on here requesting help. He found out the day later, when his computer would start up but wouldn't display anything on the screen. His video card must have came screwed up. So, he got a replacement. Now, there's a new problem. His temperatures, which were acceptable before, are now insanely high. His GPU temperature runs 70-80c, which is understandable considering he's running his games maxed out, but the real problem here is his processor and motherboard temperatures. All four of his cores are running at 88-90c after coming out of a game. His motherboard temperature was also 70c at one point. In terms of cooling, his case should definitely be adequate. He has an Antec Twelve Hundred. He's using stock fans. The cable management in his case is very good; better than average. He's using the stock heatsink with the processor too, but note, it was fine before the replacement, so it isn't like there's some inherent problem. He has checked the case too. Everything's fine! No cables in the way. The heatsink is seated properly. He turned his case fans up to high, as well, but the temperatures are persisting. Could the processor be overheating due to running games maxed out? Any ideas?

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• How can I make sound over hdmi in kubuntu work?

  - by user32509

  I have used a hdmi cable to connect my lcd (which is connected with my speakers) with my nvida 275 gtx grafic card. I can not get the sound output to work. The hardware itself is working probably - I tested it under windows. Currently I am running Kubuntu 9.10 64 with Nvidia 190.53. The sound output worked fine before I installed the hdmi connection. (German output - i can change it, if you tell me how :)) aplay -l **** Liste von PLAYBACK Geräten **** Karte 0: Intel [HDA Intel], Gerät 0: ALC889A Analog [ALC889A Analog] Untergeordnete Geräte: 1/1 Untergeordnetes Gerät '0: subdevice #0 Karte 0: Intel [HDA Intel], Gerät 1: ALC889A Digital [ALC889A Digital] Untergeordnete Geräte: 1/1 Untergeordnetes Gerät '0: subdevice #0 aplay -L front:CARD=Intel,DEV=0 HDA Intel, ALC889A Analog Front speakers surround40:CARD=Intel,DEV=0 HDA Intel, ALC889A Analog 4.0 Surround output to Front and Rear speakers surround41:CARD=Intel,DEV=0 HDA Intel, ALC889A Analog 4.1 Surround output to Front, Rear and Subwoofer speakers surround50:CARD=Intel,DEV=0 HDA Intel, ALC889A Analog 5.0 Surround output to Front, Center and Rear speakers surround51:CARD=Intel,DEV=0 HDA Intel, ALC889A Analog 5.1 Surround output to Front, Center, Rear and Subwoofer speakers surround71:CARD=Intel,DEV=0 HDA Intel, ALC889A Analog 7.1 Surround output to Front, Center, Side, Rear and Woofer speakers iec958:CARD=Intel,DEV=0 HDA Intel, ALC889A Digital IEC958 (S/PDIF) Digital Audio Output null Discard all samples (playback) or generate zero samples (capture) pulse Playback/recording through the PulseAudio sound server And i disabled mute in kmix an all channels :)

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• Two hosts on same subnet can't see each other

  - by Joey Hewitt

  I've got two routers with two separate public IP addresses on the same subnet, but I can't get them to talk to each other. Both are connected to the internet (ISP-provided gateway) via Ethernet ports provided by the landlord, but I don't have access to or knowledge of how those are physically connected or the protocols used to get back to the ISP. I can ping either from the outside, but they can't ping each other. Traceroutes in and out look the same, and they receive the same gateway over DHCP. I can ping other IPs on the subnet, so I assume this is not any sort of intentional isolation for security/privacy. Since I'm in a setup where my landlord provides internet and we don't have contact with the ISP, I can't really ask the ISP for help (doubt the landlord would know much either.) The situation is similar to the diagram at this question, but instead of the two servers, there's another router coming off the (presumed) switch, and I don't have access to the switch. I've tried giving them static routes to each other with the ISP internet gateway as the gateway, but that's not working. One is a Linksys WRT54GL running DD-WRT, the other is a Netgear WGR614v7, although I could get something more capable if necessary. I'd like to keep them each connected directly to the ISP on their WAN ports, but I can have an ethernet cable between them if necessary - I'm wondering if there's a way without that, and if there isn't, I'd appreciate advice on how to get that working. Sorry this is so nitpicky; there are reasons for all the constraints, but they don't apply to the real question, so I left them out. ;) Thank you!

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• HP dv6910 laptop no longer recognizes wireless adapter, dvd drive, and one usb port. What can I do about this?

  - by Joan H.

  In the last 3 weeks, my not even 3 year old HP laptop (vista) just seems to be failing. First, one of the usb ports stopped working. Next, the dvd drive all of a sudden was not recognized as even existing, so it is now useless. And as of today, I no longer seem to have a wireless adapter on my laptop. It doesn't show up in device manager, same as the dvd drive. I can connect to the internet by ethernet cable, but not wirelessly. It worked fine last night; now it doesn't even exist! I have tried a 'hard reset' I read about on HP's forum- no help. I am not sure what else to try. I read about the USB wifi dongle in another response, but I already have maxed our my usb ports even though I have bought a USB hub since the one port failed. Plus, I'd like my laptop to just work like it's supposed to instead of being jerry rigged with usb hubs, external dvd drives, and wifi dongles etc. Any ideas?

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• Intermittently uncommunicative subnets

  - by mhd

  Last week proved me a veritable Cassandra: I've always said that it's a bad idea to have only one firewall/router, without a backup or failover. And thus our Cisco PIX went haywire, refusing to route properly. And of course, the only one available here on short notice is me, and while I'm quite grounded in Linux, I'm really a developer not a sysadmin (the fact that this hit me on sysadmin appreciation day is a bit ironic). Anyway, this weekend I tried to hack up a temporary solution: I used an old server with enough NICs (two built-in, four on a card) to serve as a gateway and firewall. Due to some problems with the raid controller, I got only two router distros running, and between Untangle and Ebox I decided for the latter. Now everything is quite okay. I've got all the different subnets we've got here (all with separate switches) talking to each other and even to the internet (Cisco 2800 router, T1 lines). But from time to time (20-60 minute intervals), I get a total routing failure. Our main, office subnet can't talk to our server subnet and can't connect to the internet. This is not the end of a gradual slowdown, either everything's working perfectly or I get a total lack of communication for about two minutes each time. Now I'm a bit at wits end what to check. At least with the default EBox setup, nothing in /var/log shows anything weird and it doesn't exactly have lots of built-in monitoring tools. So I'm hoping someone here could give me some pointers about what to look out for. I did change the ethernet cable from the office switch to the firewall, with no results. I might change switches, although within the switch it seems to work ok enough. Edit: I'm not sure whether this is the sole cause of the problem, but after I noticed a few DHCP entries just before the last drop of connectivity, I tried to reproduce that. And alas, whenever I renew a DHCP connection, I can't access other subnets anymore. Running ISC DHCPD 3.0.6.

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• How to set up daisy-chained routers for separate sub-nets?

  - by joe

  This question seems to be similar to others, but I'll take a shot anyway. A client recently switched ISPs from TDS to Comcast Business Class. Before the switch, they had 5 static IP addresses assigned. Now they'll have a single IP address that will change whenever Comcast decides to do so. The issue is that this internet connection will be shared among two companies, both having (and wanting to keep) their own private subnets. Because TDS was supplying multiple IP addresses to the one location, this allowed me to put each router on the switch. Now, with Comcast, they only get one IP address, meaning there has to be a main router before the subnet routers. Luckily, the cable modem has a built-in router, which I would like to connect to each company's router, and still have DHCP enabled on all accounts. Question: What do I need to do to the subnet routers to keep them separate from each other, but still allow internet access from the main router. I would love to say "I tried this", and give you links, but everything I find on the internet only mentions daisy-chaining routers with DCHP disabled.

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• Games, Windows 8.1 and 144Hz display

  - by Marioysikax

  So I have been having problems with few games after switching from 7 to 8.1, which seems to be related to my 144Hz monitor. Few examples: Shank, Shank 2, Blood of the Werewolf, Astebreed, the Sims 2 and Rayman Legends patch 1.2Had few other as well but it's been long and I have 600+ steam library. From those games at least the Sims 2 and Shank worked without any problems with same setup and Windows 7. So basically these games simply refuse to launch with basic setup. However if I plug 60Hz TV with HDMI instead everything magically starts to work. As for Astebreed and the Sims 2 using windowed mode seems to also work. As for Rayman Demo and version 1.0 works for some reason and 1.2 breaks settings menu. I have already tried contacting supports. EA support stated game simply shouldn't work with 8.1 at all (which is lie as it works with that TV and friend with 8 plays just fine), ubisoft support took few weeks and support said he will forward info for further processing, blood of the werewolf support had no idea what's going on and told me to just use my TV instead.Changing monitors refresh rate to 120Hz or forcing it to 60Hz doesn't do anything. I have DVI right now but I will try with DisplayPort when I get the cable. At PCGW Garrett said it may have something to do how listing resolutions work with 8 compared to earlier Windows versions but my googling skills don't bring anything up and compatibility mode for earlier windows version doesn't work either (not that I expected that to work). My system specs are on my steam profile. How do I get those work with my 144Hz monitor as well as possible future games having same problem? Downgrading to 7 would work but is far from practical and I don't own legit lisence for that one.

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• very slow internet with Linksys WRT54GL only in wireless mode (wired is OK)

  - by gojira

  I bought a new Cisco Linksys WRT54GL router to connect my laptop (running Windows 7) to the internet. I installed Tomato 1.28 firmware on the router. When I connect the laptop to the router via ethernet cable, everything is fine and I get extremely fast up- and download speeds. When I connect wirelesssly however, websites load extremely slow - it takes dozens of seconds to load a website! <-- This is my question, how can I fix the wireless speed issue? Gmail for example is unusable this way. I tried speedtest.net, but this always fails in the upload part of the test so I can't even test the bandwidth (could the fact that it fails in the upload part, not the download part, be an indication what the problem is?!). I have isolated the problem a bit, I am convinced it has to do either with the router itself, the router settings, or the settings of the wireless connection in Win 7. Because previously, I was using another router by Buffalo and I had no problems whatsoever. I have tried to reproduce the settings from the Bufallo router as closely as possible on the Linksys router (same channel, same encryption etc). The download speed problem only occurs with the Linksys router, and only in wireless mode! When I exchange the Linksys router with the Buffalo router I have here for testing, the wireless speed is up to normal again. Also, before I had installed the Tomato firmware I had exactly the same problem, so it has nothing to do with the firmware itself. Notes & things I already tried: Changing the channel: does not seem to affect anything, I am also on the same channel (10) which I was previously on when I had a Buffalo router. QoS is off. Ping to the router itself is OK, ~ 1 ms. Some current settings of the linksys router: WAN / Internet Type: DHCP Wirelesss Mode: Access Point B/G Mode: Mixed Broadcast: check Channel: 10 - 2.457 GHz Security: WPA2 Personal Encryption: AES

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