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• Resolving loss of internet bandwidth in home network

  - by Caspar

  Recently, I've decided to connect my laptop at home to my modem/router through Ethernet cables built into my apartment. As these built-in Ethernet cables are usable via plugs built into the walls (called powerline adapters), I use some additional cabling (STP CAT6 cables) from my laptop/router to the plugs. In addition, I don't know any technical details about these built-in cables (as they're not visible), only the maximal bandwidth (1 GBit = Cat6?) that they're supporting. The built-in cables are Cat. 5e Ethernet cables. The problem is now that when I set up the connection, I cannot use the full bandwidth that my internet connection is actually offering (100 Mbit/s), only about 85 Mbit/s between 85 - 88 Mbit/s, despite the fact that all cables involved should support the maximal bandwidth. I know from other tests with one of the Ethernet cables in use that I can use almost 99 Mbit/s when I connect my laptop directly to the router/modem using only this one cable. In addition, it is very unlikely that the length of the resulting cable connection from my laptop to my router involving the built-in cables exceeds 100 m. So, what possible reasons for this loss of bandwidth exist? And how I can fix this issue? I hope this might help resolve the issue: The built-in cables appear to be Cat. 5e Ethernet cables. So, is there any problem when I connect Cat6 Ethernet cables directly to Cat5e Ethernet cables via the plugs?

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• Can't Configure IBM 8275-416 Switch Via Serial

  - by Sean M

  I am attempting to configure an IBM 8275-416 switch (I found a manual here) via serial connection. However, when I connect with HyperTerminal, the output contains a lot of garbage characters. It's pretty much unusable, because there's enough layout-breaking text-gunk that it's very difficult to determine what's actually being displayed. . I was able to reset the switch to factory defaults via the terminal interface, so I know that it's not entirely broken. It also performs basic functions all right (i.e., you plug in clients and Ethernet cables - they can connect to clients plugged into other ports) - but I'd like it to do more than that (VLANs yay). I don't know if its in-band UI is operational or not, because I can't get the terminal interface to behave well enough to properly turn on the web/SNMP UI. So that's not available. Things I've tried: - Changing the encoding: HyperTerminal lets me choose between Standard JIS and Shift-JIS. Neither setting fixes the issue. - Checking emulation settings: The manual demands VT100, 19200 baud, 8 data bits, and such: I have faithfully applied these settings, both in HyperTerminal's settings and in the properties of the COM1 port in Device Manager (connecting from a Windows machine). - Restoring to factory defaults: See above. Things that it could be, but that seem unlikely: - Cabling: Couldn't find a proper null-modem cable, so used two 232-to-RJ45 adapters. But if it was a problem with the cable, wouldn't it be more likely to not connect or do input at all, rather than just garble the text? Since I was actually able to perform the reset-to-factory defaults operation, I don't think it's this. - Device as a whole broken: It is a decade and change old, so it's possible that it's just dying slowly. Again, though, it seems like there would be more symptoms than just garbled text in the terminal. What else can I try to get a sane interface to this switch?

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• Why does my Intel Tolapai network chip not transmit packets?

  - by Hanno Fietz

  I'm trying to deploy an embedded system (NISE 110 by Nexcom) based on the Intel EP80579 (Tolapai) chip. Tolapai apparently integrates controllers for Ethernet etc. on a single chip (Intel homepage). The machine can't get a network connection. Diagnosis as far as I could manage: Drivers drivers from Intel compiled and installed without problems (version 1.0.3-144). Kernel version and Linux distribution (CentOS 5.2, 2.6.18) match the driver's installation instructions. drivers are loaded and show up in lsmod (module names are gcu and iegbe) interfaces eth0 and eth1 show up in ifconfig ifconfig I can bring up the interfaces with fixed IP pinging the interface locally works ifconfig shows flag UP but not RUNNING Link ethtool shows "Link detected: no", "Speed: unknown (65536)" and "Duplex: unknown (255)" Link LED is on on the other side of the cable, ethtool shows "Link detected: yes" and reports a speed of 1000 Mbps, which has allegedly been auto-neogotiated with the problematic device. Network traffic analysis the device does not reply on ARP, ICMP echo or anything else (iptables is down) when trying to send ICMP or DHCP requests, they never reach the other end activity LED is off on the device, on at the other end. I tried the following without any effect: Different cables (2 straight, one crossed), I get the link LED lit up on each. Three different devices on the other end (one PC, one netbook, one router) Fixed ARP table entries on both sides Connecting both network ports of the machine with each other, won't ping through the cable, but will ping locally. Tried straight and crossed cables for that.

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• Network connection keeps dropping - bad hardware?

  - by Bill Sambrone

  Hello all, I've into a bit of a wall with a client of mine. In an office of 20 people, he is the only one who experiences broken connections to his mapped network drives. I have everyone set up with about 6 mapped drives, all pointing to the same server (no DFS), and everyone else can access them lightning fast. The environment consists of a mix of Windows 7 and XP machines, all 32-bit. The server holding the data everyone is mapping to is running on Server 2008 R2, and is a domain controller. We recently swapped out their old 10/100 switch for a shiny new Dell PowerConnect gigabit switch. We have also replaced an old dying Sonicwall with a shiny new one. Everything is running on an ESX host except for the DC, where everyone is getting data from. In my client's office, we have done the following: Swapped out his computer (Win7 and XP box) Swapped out the desktop switch in his office Removed the desktop switch in his office Changed out the network cable going to the wall Ran 'net config server /autodisconnect:-1' on the server Disabled remote differential compression on his current Win7 box When we swapped out his network cable, everything seemed fine for about 4 days. Normally I would get a phone call a couple times per day letting me know that Outlook has crashed (there is a 9GB PST living on the server he is always connected to), or that his software he is running from his L drive has crashed. I almost thought I had this solved, but after we rebooted the DC the other night he all of a sudden couldn't stay connected to his mapped network drives for more than 10 minutes. When I ran 'net use' from the command prompt, it listed all the network drives where were randomly in a state of 'OK', 'Disconnected', or 'Reconnecting'. What else should I try? Maybe there is bad wiring in the wall, patch panel, or a bad port in the new switch I have in the server room?

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• How can I connect my Xbox to my Mac on my network

  - by codecowboy

  I have a wireless router/modem (Router 1) in my living room. This is connected to the internet (cable). Wireless is disabled as the router has a terrible wireless range. My Xbox is connected via ethernet to Router 1. Another LAN output from Router 1 connects to a powerline adapter. Router 1 acts as a DHCP server on 192.168.0.x and has the IP 192.168.0.1 In a second room I have Router 2. This has the powerline feed from Router 1 going into the WAN socket. This router runs the Tomato Firmware and acts as a wireless router for the rest of the house using the IP range 192.168.1.x. Router 2 IP is 192.168.1.1. My Mac is connected to Router 2 using a LAN cable and has the IP 192.168.0.133. Several mobile devices need wireless access. I want an ethernet connection to my Mac, not wireless. I should be able to use software like Connect360 to share media from my Mac to the XBox but the XBox does not see my Mac. I can ping 192.168.0.1 from the Mac. Is this possible using my current setup? If so, how?

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• Two monitors with Mac Mini - one displays black despite receiving a signal

  - by alex

  My Mac Mini outputs to my two new monitors - Dell U2311Hs. The LED on the bezel displays blue when receiving a signal, or yellow otherwise. Both screens are displaying blue. It also seems my Mini can see both of them... However, one of them is black. It just displays black, but appears to be receiving a signal (when I turn the Mac off, it then displays No Signal). To make things weirder, on startup, the boot up (white with Apple logo) appears on the right monitor (the one that now displays black). Occasionally, it flickers up on the black screen for 1 second. I have tried Detect Displays. It appears to do nothing. I'm also running a dual monitor KVM. Video connections are DVI-D. How can I fix this situation? Thanks. Update This is the weirdest thing - I used the DVI-D cable that came with the KVM and it seems to have fixed it - I didn't both because it looks identical to any other DVI cable (in form an pin out). So, I will accept an answer if someone can tell me what may be the difference in these cables?

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• How to get data from a borked Windows Home Server

  - by harhoo

  Yesterday we had a power surge, followed by a power outage. This left my WHS borked: powering on just gives to a flashing blue light (the led on the power supply also flashes green) - no fan or boot activity, nothing. I urgently needed some files off there in the short term (and the 500GB of photos, music, personal video etc in the long term) so I took the hard drive out and put it in my computer. The files and folders showed up, but I couldn't access them - clicking on an image gave an invalid image error in Picasa, I couldn't play MP3s etc. I changed the ownership and permissions of the files, still nothing. I booted in with a LiveCD, the same: files appear, but won't open. Is there anything else I can do? I'm now wondering if it was just the power cable that's broken, but if so, why can;t I access my files from the hard drive? If it is the power cable, and I replace that and the hard drive, will I have done any harm messing around with ownership and file permissions?

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• Hardware issue, bsod with windows xp irq and strange messages with ubuntu

  - by JP Hellemons

  I have an old Acer T160 and it used to run Windows XP. But I keep getting random BSOD's. I keep seeing IRQ conflicts. I tried to run ubuntu, which runs and keeps running. But sometimes is not responding. Also there are these popups at ubuntu 12.04 that my network cable (which is onboard) is unplugged. But I have no cable in it! and have an usb dongle for wifi. which also seems unstable. have to (auto)reconnect sometimes. So my question is: is it my mobo, power supply or something else? FYI: I had an dvd-rw station which did not open properly, so unplugged the ata and power, als removed the second harddrive. now only have sata harddrive. also removed the extra video card (ati sapphire x1600 pro) so use only onboard video now and still have these issues. EDIT Update: will try with a new PSU (power supply unit of 400watt) the old (factory) one was 300watt. and will use a usb drive which has 12.04 ubuntu on it (made with unetbootin) to format everything and re-install ubuntu. (so also delete mbr partition) will update the day after tomorrow.

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• Intel Ethernet Bottlenecking Internet?

  - by Donald Darma

  I'm having trouble with my internet speeds. So I just recent build a pc and everything is fine. I installed the Intel drivers and connected to the internet. It connects but I'm only half the speed I should be getting. My normal speed is 20mbps but speedtest.net is only showing 10. It can't be my ISP (which is TWC if anyone is asking) because my other devices like my laptop and my smartphone are showing 20 down. Heres my system: CPU: i5 4430 HSF: Stock cooler Mobo: Gigabyte Z87MX-D3H GPU: x2 MSI R7950-3GD5/OC BE RAM: Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer 8GB dual channel PSU: Silencer High Performance Power Supply 750 Watt 80+ (It's a subdivision of OCZ) HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 3TB SSD: Samsung 840 Evo 120 GB Case: Corsair Obsidian 350D Edit: I am using the stock adapter that is on the motherboard. I know for a fact that the cable is good because I used it on my laptop and it ran fine. Its a CAT5E cable. I also ran IPERF and its giving me the same results, 10 mbps.

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• Gigabit LAN not working on ASUS M2N-MX

  - by chmod

  Today I replace my FastEthernet switch with a newly bought gigabit switch (DGS-1008A). All computers in my house are displaying that the connection speed is 1 Gbps except for one. The computer that is not working is an ASUS M2N-MX which contain an onboard gigabit NIC. See ASUS link for confirmation http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM2/M2NMX/ Here are some info of the machine OS: Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64bit BIOS version: 1004 (latest) Driver: installed via Windows update (latest from Windows update) Windows Update: fully updated The machine is reformatted 3 days ago, so it's pretty clean, no junk, no virus, etc Cable: Amp CAT5E 5 meters In device manager, the name of the NIC is "NVIDIA nForce 10/100/1000 Mbps Ethernet" What I have try: I did try to install the driver provided in ASUS website, but there isn't any for Windows 7 64 or Vista 64. I did try to install the latest nForce340/6100, downloaded from Nvidia website. However, the LAN driver refuse to install, it complain that I already have the best driver installed. I looking in the property -- advance tab -- Speed/duplex settings, in an attempt to force it to run at 1000Mbps, but there is no 1000Mbps choice, only 10 and 100Mpbs. I change the CAT5E cable (use one from another computer that is running gigabit without problem) Anyone have this issue or know how to solve it? Thanks

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• RouterLess, house-wired network using multiple powerline adapters

  - by Cliff Arnell

  related to the 'old days' of one ethernet cable tapped with Ts for each monitor.... my question might be very simple... or not. I have an over-the-air internet provider with a wire dish with a powered transceiver and cat5 cable out of the providers supplied modem. I'm presently connecting the output of the modem into my wireless router which sends the internet signal all over the house. Standard stuff, I believe. My Question. Can I just connect the output of the modem into 1 powerline adapter and tie all my equipment such as computer, printer, laptop, Tivo recorder, etc. into 1-each local powerline adapters located near each devices resulting in a 'house-wired' network and no router? I'm bothered by the idea that my over-the-air provider might be using something in my router to establish and keep my IP connection alive. I did have to configure the router for my IP, a router which, in my proposed scenario, would no longer exist. Thank you for your help.

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• How to monitor bandwidth use of each device on wifi network

  - by GWLlosa

  I have in my home a standard Comcast cable internet connection. I have it going from the wall to a cable modem, and from the modem to a late-series Linksys router, which provides wired and wireless networking. The vast majority of the users are wireless connections. For day-to-day tasks, this connection is fully sufficient for all my needs. However, on regular occassions, we have social gatherings that involve many people bringing laptops and other PCs and using the network and internet simultaneously, frequently for gaming. I have no administrative oversight over these machines; they have been known to be riddled with spyware and/or bloatware or be running torrents, legal or otherwise. The only reason I care is that on a regular basis, one of the machines will flatline my internet bandwith, and consume it all in order to upload/download/spam people/whatever. When this happens, the latency of the connections for gaming and the like becomes unacceptable, and everyone suffers. My question is: Is there a system I can set up whereby I can easily monitor the various systems connected to my wireless connection, see how much bandwith each one is using, and for what ends? That way, at a glance, I can spot the offending machine and kick it from the connection, without having to go from machine to machine, checking each one's "bandwith used" properties manually, and dealing with the owner's indignant protests all the while. I understand this will likely involve 3rd-party software and/or hardware; my issue is I don't even know where to begin.

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• realtek lan driver problem - win 7

  - by tango _123

  Hi, my new notebook (ACER TM 8371) with Win 7(x32) professional as OS, has strage behaviour with respect to LAN. when I plug or unplug my charger cable, or my notebook goes in stad-by, or just a do nothing, the netwrok connection is lost. All the energy savings functionbality have been in-activated. if i check the network adapter information, it says "a network cabel is unplugged or corrupted", but it is not true.....the cable is in and it is not corrupted (i tried several which works on other machines). if a tried to di-habilitate and hence re-habilitate, it allows di-habilitation and not to further re-habilitate (it says "no driver for the network card" are available). in some cases, also, the driver disappears (i cannot see it anylonger). if i restart the notebook, everything comes back to normality, but.....today in 3 hours i had to restart 6 times!!! can anyone help me? win 7 says the driver is the last one, so no need to update it. here are some techinical information aboiut network card and driver: Name [00000015] Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller Adapter type Ethernet 802.3 Product type Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller Installated YES ID device PNP PCI\VEN_10EC&DEV_8168&SUBSYS_02831025&REV_02\4&266E4C4F&0&00E2 last reset 20/11/2009 11:27 Index 15 Service name RTL8167 I/O Port 0x0000FF00-0x0000FFFF Memory address 0xE2500000-0xE2500FFF Memory address 0xE1400000-0xE140FFFF IRQ Channel IRQ 18 Driver c:\windows\system32\drivers\rt86win7.sys (7.3.522.2009, 164,00 KB (167.936 Byte), 28/08/2009 22:12)

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• How To Monitor Home Wireless Network Connected Devices Bandwith

  - by GWLlosa

  (Originally posted on SuperUser, not sure if it might be better suited here) I have in my home a standard Comcast cable internet connection. I have it going from the wall to a cable modem, and from the modem to a late-series Linksys router, which provides wired and wireless networking. The vast majority of the users are wireless connections. For day-to-day tasks, this connection is fully sufficient for all my needs. However, on regular occassions, we have social gatherings that involve many people bringing laptops and other PCs and using the network and internet simultaneously, frequently for gaming. I have no administrative oversight over these machines; they have been known to be riddled with spyware and/or bloatware or be running torrents, legal or otherwise. The only reason I care is that on a regular basis, one of the machines will flatline my internet bandwith, and consume it all in order to upload/download/spam people/whatever. When this happens, the latency of the connections for gaming and the like becomes unacceptable, and everyone suffers. My question is: Is there a system I can set up whereby I can easily monitor the various systems connected to my wireless connection, see how much bandwith each one is using, and for what ends? That way, at a glance, I can spot the offending machine and kick it from the connection, without having to go from machine to machine, checking each one's "bandwith used" properties manually, and dealing with the owner's indignant protests all the while. I understand this will likely involve 3rd-party software and/or hardware; my issue is I don't even know where to begin.

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• DSL Connection drops

  - by user60024

  Ok, I just moved so I had to switch from Cable to DSL. I know very little about computers or internet connections and such, so I had AT&T come out to the new house to set up their highest speed. When they got here, they told me that I needed to downgrade to 3.5mbps because I was too far away. Well we did and everything was going great for two days until I started experiencing random disconnects which have been happening now for about 2 to 3 weeks. I am using a N300 Wireless Dual Band ADSL2+ Modem Router and my ethernet cable is hooked directly into my computer from it. I recently started to notice that it disconnects around 5:30 and 8:30, which may be because a lot of people are on their computers(?) and that it works perfectly fine, almost, all the time if I'm not playing a game. During this time, when I try to load up World of Warcraft the Internet light disappears and the DSL light begins blinking. (So maybe it's too much for the modem and it resets?) Other than that it is amazing, but I'd like to try and fix some of these problems. If you need more information, let me know on how to get it for you and what to do. Thanks for the help!

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• How can I pair two bluetooth dongles together?

  - by techaddict

  I want to hack a device which connects via USB, and plug a bluetooth USB dongle to the end of the USB cable (using a female to female adapter), and then connect to that device from another USB bluetooth dongle connected to my computer. How can I do this? It is straightforward? I don't want to spend $30 before I know how to do this. Also I think another concern is that the USB cable is providing power to the device. So I think that means I would also have to hack it for power. I have created this diagram in Photoshop to illustrate my intent: (NOTE: it won't be a USB mouse, as that would be pointless because there are already wireless mice in existence. The mouse is displayed for illustrative purposes) Don't tell me "it won't work". Because I KNOW it WILL work. Think for example, PS3 controller. That works, and in fact I was able to get it working with my laptop, over bluetooth. I just want to know HOW to make it work.

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• "Ethernet" doesn't have a valid IP configuration

  - by Xuzuno

  I'm using an ethernet cord to connect to my internet and it has been working well until Thursday morning when I turned on my laptop (Windows 8) to see a yellow triangle sign in the bottom right hand corner, in front of the ethernet connected symbol. Since then I haven't been able been able to access the internet from my computer. When I hover over it, it says that it is an "Unidentified network" and there is "No internet access". I've run the Windows 8 troubleshooting and it says that the problem found was ""Ethernet" doesn't have a valid IP configuration", but I'm unsure how to fix it. I'm thinking that the problem is to do with my computer rather than my network, because I've tried another laptop (Windows 7) through the same ethernet cable and connection and the internet works fine on the other laptop. I've tried so many fixes that I've found online, with none of them actually working. Yesterday I even tried a full system reset, where I re-installed Windows 8, re-partitioned and wiped everything off the hard drive, but it still appears have the exact same problem. Today I also purchased and tried a new ethernet cable which didn't work, so I then purchased a USB to Ethernet adapter, to make sure that it wasn't my ethernet port on my laptop that was faulty. That didn't work either, and the same problem still remains. I feel like I've tried everything, so can someone please help me?

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• Disable internal display on Macbook Pro without closed lid mode?

  - by jslaker

  I have an early 2007 Macbook Pro running 10.5 that I've recently set up on a KVM with my primary desktop system. The problem I've run into is that I have a 20" 1680x1050 LCD, and OS X only provides options to mirror at the resolution of the built-in display or to span. Since the built-in display runs at 1440x900, this leads to running my LCD at non-native res and a fuzzy picture. There isn't any option that I can find to simply disable the built-in display entirely and run the external LCD at its native resolution. I am aware of closed lid mode, but the MBP was disassembled while in storage for about 6 months (took it apart to pull the HDD) and the cable to the touchpad, which controls the sleep sensor was damaged, meaning closed lid mode won't work. I've looked into replacing the cable, but the cheapest I've been able to find it is $75-100, and I'm trying not to invest any more money into this computer as it also has a completely dead battery and a few other minor problems. I've found the app SwitchResX which appears to allow you to do what I need, but it has a lot of functionality I don't need and a ~$20 registration charge attached to it. An odd set of circumstances, I'm aware, but I was hoping somebody might know of an OS hack that would let me just disable the internal display and be done with it. :)

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• Internet setup for my office

  - by prakash

  We have two internet connections to our office and our current setup is like this.. The internet connections require pppoe log in so i take each cable and plug it into a wifi router and configure the router to log in to the pppoe and then plug in a cable from the router to a switch and distribute the internet throughout my office. The problem with this setup is it is really hard to monitor and im not able to monitor who is hogging internet usage and what he or she is actually using it for. apart from this we also have a nas setup which is routed through another switch . Could someone please throw a little light on how i can restructure this setup for easy monitoring and better transparency... ? each wan router is connected to a different switch and is distributed to users accordingly.. we have around 40 users in the office.. we want to setup a single linux box to which i want to connect the two wan connections and from there distribute it to all our users.... im looking for a solution where we do not have to invest more that buying a single pc and a couple of nics

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• CD Drive not discovered

  - by user1009073

  I have a self built computer. it uses a P6T Deluxe motherboard, which has both SATA and IDE ports. This was built several years ago, and had an IDE CD/DVD drive. This drive started going bad (would not burn CDs correctly), so I decided to replace it. I had difficultly finding an IDE DVD drive, so I bought a SATA DVD drive. I opened the comnputer, took out the old DVD drive. I left the IDE cable in place, connected to the motherboard, but it is not connected to any drives. I hooked up the new DVD drive, both power and with a SATA data cable (SATA port 3 if I recall). (Sony Optiarc 24x , Newegg URL: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118067 ) When I power on my computer, the drive does NOT show up in Explorer. I can hit the DVD eject button, and the drive will open up, so I know it at least is getting power. I thought, maybe something in the BIOS. When I go to BIOS, boot devices, it shows (1) floppy, (2) my hard drive (3) ATAPI CD Drive. The only other possible BIOS option I could find was uder 'Storage Configuration'. Configure Storage as: My setting is RAID, since I am using two drives in a RAID configuration. Other options were IDE and ACHI. Other than trying to find an IDE DVD drive, is there anything else I can try? The drive does not show up at all in Windows Explorer. I did put in a CD thinking that might help, but nothing happened. Thanks, GS

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• Port(s) not forwarding?

  - by user11189

  I have cable internet service through Charter Communications and feed two desktop computers through a Linksys RP614v3 router. One system is my wife's running WinXP Home Edition and the other is mine, running Vista Home Premium (sp1). I have port forwarding configured in the Linksys so I can access the Vista system remotely using TightVNC. Initially, it worked great and I was able to remotely tend email and access local files while out of town for work. Lately, the cable internet service appears to flicker intermittently and upon return, my Mailwasher program loses ability to access the net and I've been unable to make the remote connection. When I reset the port forwarded for email in the router control panel, Mailwasher functionality returns but as I'm home when that happens, I have no easy way to check remote access until the next time I'm on the road or at work. I'm at my wit's end -- the TightVNC client accesses fine from my wife's system from behind the modem/router setup but I don't know how to maintain whatever gets reset when I fiddle with the control panel and the need to do so at all is new. I accessed it fine for a week off and on while out of town a month ago and now I can't leave home and access it from work an hour later.

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• Can you help me understand my SATA/RAID options?

  - by andrz_001

  I've a gigabyte GA-M720-US3 motherboard. Recently, I noticed the following during boot: IDE channel 0 Master (none) IDE channel 0 Slave (none) IDE channel 2 Master (my hdd) IDE channel 2 Slave (my dvd drive) IDE channel 3 Master (none) IDE channel 3 Slave (none) Of course, the same information is contained in the BIOS/CMOS. The HDD is connected to the mobo via a SATA(2?) cable at the port(?) labeled SATA2_0. The DVD drive is connected by a similar cable at SATA2_1. Why doesn't the information displayed during the boot and in BIOS reflect how I plugged the cables in? I mean, why "none" for channel 0 when there is something in SATA2_0. (or is that serious naivete on my part!?) Where's Channel 1 master and slave? Since these are SATA cables and not the IDE ribbons from a time ago, why the whole master/slave declaration during boot and in BIOS? Should my BIOS reflect the fact that these are SATA cables? I mean, in BIOS, should the "Onchip SATA mode IDE" be set to RAID or AHCI instead of IDE? Any replies, answers, suggestions, links, tips will be much appreciated. Thank you in advance!

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• ATI Radeon 5670 Won't Show Resolutions over 1400x900

  - by Phil Sandler

  Just got my new Dell computer with Windows 7 and an ATI Radeon 5670. I attached it to my current monitor, which is a Samsung 24" (2443bwt). Windows 7 does not allow me to display in resolutions greater than 1400 x 900. The setup through a VGA cable into the VGA port of the card. The card also has a DVI port, but I need to use the VGA port because a KVM that supports VGA only. My old PC (which is Windows XP, GeForce 8600 video) can display in 1900 x 1200 on the same monitor (which is what I want) and even higher. It does this through a vga cable also connected to the KVM (through the DVI port but using an adapter). I have tried the same setup (DVI = VGA adapter) on the new PC and nothing changed. I have tried: Updating the drivers via Windows "Update Driver" (says they are current) Installing the updated version of the drivers from ATI (made no difference) Installing Powerstrip (all the options I would need for a custom resolution are greyed out) Installing the drivers/software from ATI caused the ATI Catalyst Control Center software to stop functioning, so I can no longer even start it. I have found some references to other people having this problem and instructions on cleaning the software off and reinstalling it (as uninstalling normally doesn't solve it). I will try this tonight. In any case, I didn't see any options in CCC that would allow me to override the settings for max resolution. However I didn't tinker with it too much before I tried updating the drivers, so I may have missed a setting. I contacted Samsung via online chat and they say it's a problem with the video card/driver (of course--what else would they say?). Any thoughts on what else I could try?

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• Pull network or power? (for contianing a rooted server)

  - by Aleksandr Levchuk

  When a server gets rooted (e.g. a situation like this), one of the first things that you may decide to do is containment. Some security specialists advise not to enter remediation immediately and to keep the server online until forensics are completed. Those advises are usually for APT. It's different if you have occasional Script kiddie breaches. However, you may decide to remediate (fix things) early and one of the steps in remediation is containment of the server. Quoting from Robert Moir's Answer - "disconnect the victim from its muggers". A server can be contained by pulling the network cable or the power cable. Which method is better? Taking into consideration the need for: Protecting victims from further damage Executing successful forensics (Possibly) Protecting valuable data on the server Edit: 5 assumptions Assuming: You detected early: 24 hours. You want to recover early: 3 days of 1 systems admin on the job (forensics and recovery). The server is not a Virtual Machine or a Container able to take a snapshot capturing the contents of the servers memory. You decide not to attempt prosecuting. You suspect that the attacker may be using some form of software (possibly sophisticated) and this software is still running on the server.

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• Recovering data from an external hard drive

  - by CCallaghan

  I have a WD Elements 2GB hard drive (formatted NTFS). I accidentally kicked out the USB cable while writing data to the disk, and now I can't access most of the data. Although this was ostensibly my backup drive, there is a great deal of important material on there which was only on there. I realise how idiotic this makes me. (So, formatting is not an option.) Things I've tried/information I've gathered: Windows Explorer will recognise the drive itself. However, it will not access most directories therein (and will sometimes crash when exploring). I can access all of the directories through the command line, but the dir command will often report that it can't read any files in most of the directories. The situation was similar when I hooked it up to an Ubuntu machine: the file explorer crashed, but I could access directories - but not files in those directories - via terminal commands. Several files I tried to copy out either resulted in an I/O error being reported or resulted in the command line crashing. The Disk Management utility on Windows reports a healthy disk formatted as NTFS and not RAW. It also indicates the correct amount of space used up and its capacity (so it seems that the files are not deleted). I've tried to run chkdsk, but that hangs on Step 2 (checking indexes) at 74%. Step 1 reported no bad sectors. I tried Recuva, but that didn't seem to work (stalled at 0% for half an hour). I should also note that the disk doesn't seem to be spinning smoothly; it seems to be chopping back, like it's reading the same sector over and over again. I noticed this after I kicked out the cable. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Update: It would seem the problem has taken a turn for the worse. The external hard drive now shows up on my computer as a local disk and is not mountable by Linux.

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