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  • Allowing Apache in Ubuntu to access files in NTFS hard drive

    - by lyrae
    I have LAMP running in Ubuntu. However, my files are located on a separate NTFS hard drive (/media/shared/mysite/). going to http://localhost gives me a 403 how can i, securely, allow apache to read/write the NTFS disk? 'shared' is currently being mounted when system boots. here's the entry in fstab: /dev/sda1 /media/shared ntfs-3g quiet,defaults,locale=en_US.utf8,umask=000 0 0

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  • Add SATA Port to Motherboard?

    - by YAS
    I recently took off the bottom covers to my laptop, an Aspire 6930, and one of the covers was hiding an empty space large enough for a second hard drive. The bit of motherboard that was showing had the solder joints for a SATA port, but no port. What I'm wondering is; If I get a spare SATA port and solder it in would it mess up my motherboard and kill my laptop? I'm not concerned about a clean solder job, I can do that. But if the port is soldered in cleanly if there would be any danger to doing it. It'd be pretty darn awesome to get a second hard drive in my laptop.

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  • C Drive Hard Disk Problem

    - by Amit
    I have Windows XP OS. C: Drive has 7 Gb disk space out of that I can see only 4 GB are occopied. Currently only 265 MB are free space showing. I am not sure how to retrive remaining 3 GB space. Can any one have any idea.

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  • How to mount a drive with read only permission

    - by Master
    I am using this is fstab to mount the partition at backup. /dev/sda5 /media/virtual ntfs defaults 0 0 When i reboot the permissions are automatically set to 777. I want that only one user i.e userA can read and write , all others should not see the contents of that drive. What should i do anything like /dev/sda5 /media/virtual ntfs userA 700 defaults 0 0

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  • Hp pavilion dv7 power button

    - by Danny B
    My power button is non responsive I am getting LED for charging. I've taken it apart before to change the dc jack and it was fine and a few months later it just powered off. I try to power back on and is goes to start up then shuts off. I just took it apart and came to find the ribbon cable connecting the power button/speakers cover is barely hanging on do I have to replace the whole thing or is there a way to replace the ribbon cable?

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  • How small can/should I make my partitions?

    - by Pureferret
    My machine is currently split into 3 user partitions (plus however many Windows and Linux have decided to slyly create) Which are C: Windows 7, D: Data, and E(?): Ubuntu. I'm considering wiping my Windows 7 Install (stupid Skyrim not installing) and restructuring the way my machine operates. I want the partitions for the Windows and Linux install to be as small as possible while still able to function well, and be able to install games on my Windows C: drive. I then want to link from both Win7 and Linux drives to the middle D drive so that the in built My Documents (and etc on windows) folder and my Home folder (linux) share a common location, rather than my current situation which is 3 separate file locations. Something like this: I have 1 TB to play with and I want to know the 'best' sizes to make these partitions when I reinstall Windows (which I need to do anyway) and re-jig everything.

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  • Server drives: 2.5" SCSI less reliable than 3.5" ?

    - by Bill
    Just had an HP 2.5" SAS 10k drive fail on a RAID5 array after about 2.5 years. It made me wonder if this was a fluke or an indication that 2.5" drives are less reliable than 3.5" SAS drives. I've had many 3.5" SAS drives running for many years without any issues (knock on wood). I would think that smaller drives would generate less heat and therefore be more reliable, but couldn't find any evidence of this. I realize all drives will eventually fail and that it's a crap shoot with any particular model, but was hoping someone could point out some related studies or comment on the SCSI drive sizes they've found to be most reliable in servers. Thanks.

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  • T60 Screen/LCD gets black after some minutes with a highpitched sound rising and fading

    - by edelwater
    Just now my T60 screen got "black" (so no display). On my second monitor: no problems so the VGA output works. Symptom: Screen blanks / no display, but it works on the second monitor Steps to reproduce: - boot - wait (it does not matter what you do you do not have to login or anything) - (now the monitor of the laptop slowly begins to make a ssssssssHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHWOEOEssssssss noise of about 10 seconds) - right after the sounds ends, the monitor gets black. Sometimes it seems to be the same each time. Software: Installed no new software before/after, running ZoneAlarm and antivirus. Other: It does not feel hot in any place, there don't seem to be running processes with strange behaviour. Warranty: Out of warranty What was I doing: Typing text on a website and doing some PHP coding in a text editor. What can I do here other than buy a new laptop? Does it sound familiar to known cases? Update 1: Exactly the same problem: http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/T60-Screen-Blackout/m-p/288772 and the second poster (garyj), http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/Black-Screen-on-T60/m-p/235053#M48627 And here: "I have that same problem. I replaced the CCRL on mine and it works fine when the screen is not screwed in. Once the frame of the LCD screen (metal portion) touches the metal on the laptop which holds the screen the screen goes black. If the metal is touching the screen when you boot up it boots up with it being very dimmly lit. " from http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/T60-screen-problems/m-p/205047#M44995 (it seems replacing the LCD display is no use, he tried it three times). Same problem: http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/T60-black-screen/m-p/80604#M25914 Hmmm... not handy 3 or 4 months ago I ordered and installed a new fan. Now the LCD. Which does not seem the core issue but some electric issue so it seems replacing the LCD is not the thing to do here. If it is not the LCD that needs to be replaced (see other threads), which parts can I order to fix this? Is there any information which could lead me to identify the issue? I have read replacing the "inverter" AND the "backlightning" would that make sense? Update 2: I replaced the inverter with another inverter, but IO have the same problem. I DID notice that the inverter is the component that makes the sssssssssssssHHHHHHHHHH sound AND it becomes very hot in a few seconds. (So both the old and the test one) The problem is hmmm wat is then the thing that makes the inverter hot by (assumption) after which it shuts itself down. Is it either the input or the output? The output seems to me not, because the screen seems to function so it must be the electricity coming in. But what causes it to become so hot would it be the VGA card outputting some unusual high voltage seems unlikely? I am looking for the component to order / replace update 3: Great news. Ewendish gave me the hint to look in the BIOS. While I was in the BIOS I noticed that the screen did not switch off and there was not a high pitched sound. So I lowered some settings in the BIOS. I then noticed that with brightness turned to 0 (via FN End), it does not make a high pitched sound and does not turn off, with brightness turned up just three "stripes" it starts making the sound. So I could from now on work under lowest brightness modus or... see where the problem lies. So as stated below with either power management or display drivers / ATI Catalyst settings / Windows display settings. I'm trying to see where it lies, but I will google some first. Update 4: I wiped clean the Windows XP installation and installed Windows 7 on it. Unfortunately the problem remains: as soon as the brightness goes up the screen starts hissing. This means... back to original thought: it probably IS a hardware problem. Although ... again... if it is NOT the inverter, what is it? Could it be the backlightning component? I could try to switch that with a another T60... but this is quite tricky.

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  • Auto backup a user folder to a usb when usb is plugged in

    - by Azztech Computers
    I'm a computer technician and help customers everyday with their computers and smartphones and have a really basic (i think) request but dont know how to go about it. Customer always come in with broken phones, water damage, needing updates, or just want me to backup their information. I currently have a program that i use when i backup their computers it backups their iOS folder C:\Users\USER\AppData\Roaming\Apple Computer\MobileSync\Backup but what i want is a quick easy way to do this in customers houses. What i require is a way when i plug in a USB drive it AUTOMATICALLY searches for the folder and starts transferring the folder to a predefined folder on the USB drive. This was I can just plug it in and begin work on their computer or phone without the risk of losing their information. I'm sure there is a .bat/.ini file i could use but wondering if someone has already done this or something similar as I would need it to search all the USER folders not just the one I'm logged into. Thanks in advance

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  • Computer powers off then tries to start up but resets repeatedly.

    - by Sam Holder
    My machine has started shutting itself off after a few minutes on, everything goes off. A few seconds (3-5) after everything has stopped the lights come back on, the cpu fan and gfx card come on again. They spin for a second, then everything goes off again. A few seconds later same things happens again, light come back on, fans spin for a few seconds then go off. This repeats seemingly forever. If I leave it for a while I can power the machine back on for a while and it will boot again. It will then stay on for a little while again before power off. Rinse and repeat. Is this likely to be power supply or something else? The machine has been up and running for a couple of years before this.

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  • Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 3000 v2.0 not working, but paired Wireless Mouse 5000 on same receiver does?

    - by John Straka
    I have a Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 3000 v2.0 that was bought paired with a Microsoft Wireless Mouse 5000. They're both Bluetooth and use the same receiver. The keyboard no longer works. The receiver is fine, as the mouse still works. The keyboard is still detected by Windows when the receiver is plugged in. The batteries have been replaced. There are no on/off switches on the keyboard or mouse, and no re-sync button on them or the receiver. Results are the same when using the receiver in a different USB port, or on a different machine. Anything else I might try to fix this, or should I hold a funeral for the keyboard?

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  • How do I know when my on-board ethernet is dead? (Realtek 8112L LAN controller w/ AI NET2 )

    - by Usagi
    So I have an ASUS P7P55D-E Pro motherboard. It has an on-board Realtek 8112L LAN controller w/ AI NET2. I suspect that my LAN controller is dead but I don't really know for sure. This is what I know thus far: Everything was working, I have a triple booted system and ethernet was functional under Linux, Win7, and OSX. My ethernet is no longer functional under all three of the operating systems. I was experiencing random momentary internet outages before everything finally went dark. I don't know much about the AI NET BIOS tool but I believe it just checks for ethernet problems before you boot into an operating system. In any case, it doesn't find a connection upon boot. I've checked the connection on a couple of other machines and everything worked fine. I think I already know the answer to my question, but are there any other possible explanations, or is it dead?

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  • Windows 7 doesn't connect to mapped drives at start up.....

    - by danbo
    We are testing Windows 7 (32bit version) and logon to a windows 2003 domain that runs a logon script whichs maps our drive letters. We have no control over the domain. Of our 7 test users, 5 continually recieve red X's on their network drives after they logon. Double clicking on them connects the drives, however, any aplpication that requires files on the fileserver will fail since it thinks it has no connection to the drive. We have tried several reg edits (Enable Linked connections, KeepConn), we have tried to find information in the event viewer to no avail. We have also looked at any differences in NIC driver versions (none). The other 2 computers that can connect without problem are local admins, but, if we logon to the 5 that have the problem with the local admin credentials we get the red x's as well??? This one is a real head scratcher......

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  • Intel Motherboard Lightning Victim Dies Hard

    - by Stetson RDT
    Today, I have a more hardware-related question. I have an Intel board, and I really do not know which board it is, I built the machine for a relative, but he forgot to keep the documentation. Long story short, the computer was disconnected during a lightning storm, but a lightning strike travelled in via the ethernet cable (It was directly connected to a power brick commonly seen on those long distance ISP Wireless transmitters), and the motherboard was shocked. I am attempting to get this PC going. The problem is as follows: The computer will randomly reboot, just in the middle of anything as it pleases. May load to EFI (or whatever BIOS is nowadays), may load to bootloader, may even get to the OS. But before 5 minutes is up, the system will always die. Out of curiosity, I plugged my voltmeter in to a molex connector. On the 5V side, it gets a good, consistant +5.13V. On the 12V side, it fluctuates, as follows: Upon immediate startup, it soars to 12.11-12.13V. It will now do one of two things: it will immediately jump down to 12.04-12.05V, or hover for about a minute at 12.11-12.13, then jump down. It seems the longer the voltage stays at 12.11-12.13, the shorter the machine will stay running. Also, post codes, whenever the machine locks up, but does not die hard, seem to be between "AA" and "AC". Does this make any sense to anybody? Do you all think this motherboard is salvageable? It was an expensive bugger, and I'd prefer to not replace it.

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  • When HDD wakes up?

    - by NumberFour
    Im looking for some small script or application which could log the time when a non-system disk wakes up. I cannot identify which application or script wakes up my non-system drive (which has to be asleep until I work with it). I have already set the noatime flag, tried to use powertop and iotop to determine which application could prevent it from going to sleep - but with no result. So my plan is to set this drive asleep (hdparm -Y) and see at what time it gets regularly woken up. Thanks for any advice.

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  • Re-cased my computer now the power plug keeps shorting

    - by dunc
    I've just re-cased my computer. I got the new case free and thought I'd be able to swap everything over myself but apparently I've done something wrong. I'm OK with components generally but wasn't totally confident about doing this. So, my question is, when setting up a new PC or moving old components into a new case, what could I have done which causes the power cable plug to short/fuse when I plug it in?. Is this likely to be an issue with the cables from my PSU, or could it be the internal case connectors? What steps would you take to diagnose the problem? I'd rather not start again if I don't have to...! Thanks in advance,

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  • Hardware testing tool/suite

    - by Aviator
    Hi All, I just bought a new core i5 system (assembled) and started installing Windows 7. It was failing for many times and at some point got installed. After that, frequent crashes related to MEMORY. So checked the RAM using memtest86+ and found many errors.I got it replaced with the vendor and now if i install ANY OS, at some point in installation it either freezes completely with no response for hours, or restarts automatically. I tried installing Windows 7, Windows Vista and Ubuntu 9.10. I tested the new RAM again and found no problems in about 2 passes using memtest86+. I even updated the BIOS using bootable USB and even the problem persists. I am really not sure which hardware is causing trouble. I dont have any OS inside it, so i have to check using bootable CDs DVDs and USB only. Please advice on how to proceed. Are there any suites/ separate tools for checking integrity of each hardware parts and troubleshoot it? I wanted to confirm which part is problematic before going for replacement. Thanks a lot! This is the config: Core i5, MSI P55-GD65, GSKill 2x2GB, Seagate 500GB 7200rpm, CM Extreme 600W PSU, Saphhire Radeon 5770 1GB, LG DVD Writer

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  • USB HD Freezes Windows Explorer

    - by nfplee
    I recently purchased a "Seagate STBX1000200 1TB Expansion 2.5 inch External Hard Drive". It has been working without problems until recently. When i plug the device into a USB port the device is recognised as it appears in the device manager but when i go to Windows Explorer and try to open it (or right click on it) it hangs/freezes windows explorer. Please note i am using Windows 7 Professional. I have already tried various things without success after searching for people with similar problems. I did read that it could be a problem with how the computer assigns a drive letter. But whrn i go to disk management (when running as an administrator) it hangs and displays the following message: Connecting to virtual disk service I'd appreciate it if anyone could offer some advice. Thanks

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  • Is my motherboard failing, or is there some other issue?

    - by ThatGuy
    So, several months ago I put together my own desktop PC. I set up a dual boot to Windows and Ubuntu. Recently, without changing any settings or installing anything new, the wifi stopped working on windows (I use a wifi adapter). It said it was connected, Network settings showed that it was working and running trouble shooting had no results. My internet still works on any other device. I found that removing the adapter from the motherboard and plugging it back in was the only thing that fixed the problem. Reinstalling the wifi drivers did not help. I purchased a new Wifi adapter, but the problem persists. More recently, I had a much more discouraging development. Sometimes, turning on the computer results in a boot loop: BIOS never starts. Instead, the monitor turns on as if it got a signal, then immediately turns off. This loops on it's own indefinitely until I hold down power, hard reset it, and try again. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I haven't tested much on the Ubuntu side. It appears that wifi works at least some of the time, but since I've had issues just getting to BIOS I'm not confident the issue is on the software side. I've also noticed issues with some of the USB ports no longer working, but that seems to be off and on. Finally, as of a few minutes ago, I booted to windows to discover that everything was running very slowly. Slow here is a relative word, but I have a Samsung 840 pro SSD and I'm used to applications running nigh instantly, and it was a solid 3 minutes before any of my applications would load. Anyway, my question is this: Is it likely that my motherboard is failing? Either way, what steps can I take to try and pin down the problem and figure out what to do?

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  • Logical volume that spans raid1 sets: what happens if a RAID fails?

    - by Jeff Shattock
    Consider the following scenario: /dev/md0 - 10GB RAID 1 volume built from /dev/sda and /dev/sdb /dev/md1 - 10GB RAID 1 volume built from /dev/sdc and /dev/sdd /dev/vg0 - volume group containing md0 and md1 /dev/vg0/lv0 - 15GB logical volume The raid devices are created with mdadm; the logical volumes by LVM. What happens to lv0 if md0 fails entirely? That is, if both sda and sdb disintegrate so that the md0 device can not start. Is the portion of the data that resided on md1 still accessible, or is the entire LV gone? Would the answer change if lv0 were created as a striped volume vs non-striped?

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  • Can I recover data from external HDD or do I format and lose it all?

    - by Col
    I have a Maxtor external HDD 500GB but haven't used it for a year or so. I have plugged it into a new laptop as the one I used it with before is busted. I know that there is a ton of data on the HDD that I would love to have the use of - mostly family and friends photos to be honest. But when I click on the HDD in Windows Explorer the only option I am given is to reformat the drive and lose the data. I'd be grateful if anyone could tell me if there is a way to get the data off the external drive before formatting it and losing it all.

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