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• I think my laptop just died

  - by Joel Coehoorn

  I have a Dell 1330M that as of about 15 minutes ago will no longer POST. What happened was I was working, stepped away for a moment, and when I came back it was turned off. I thought that was odd, but turned it on and things seemed fine. About 1/2 hour later it crashed and restarted, but came up fine again. It did this once more. At this point I was starting to get worried, but I hadn't had any problems with the laptop before and every crash was after doing some work in a virtual machine that I don't often use, so I at put the blame there. It didn't feel like it was overheating anywhere and there's no ozone smell of overheated electronics. Then it crashed a final time and now when I turn it on all I see is a bright screen with a bunch of vertical lines (noise). I've tried removing the memory sticks one at a time, but I get the same result with either memory stick in either slot. With no memory at all it stops earlier in the POST process and the screen is completely blank (black, no backlight). As I type this, I hear a double beep from the system about once every 10 minutes. I'm pretty sure the hard drive is fine because it fails during post, before anything off the drive is needed. The power supply seems good because the screen is nice and bright. It's not the RAM because swapping that around made no difference. The leaves motherboard (which I doubt and can replace) and CPU (which just might be changable). Any ideas? Is there any hope for this laptop? I'm rather fond of it and I'd have a hard time replacing it with anything near as nice.

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• Performance decrease in every game and application

  - by Márk Vincze

  When I start a game, initially it runs smoothly, but after a couple of minutes, the performance gradually decreases to the point of being unplayable (1-2 FPS). The sound also starts to lag at this point. This does not happen every time I start my PC, usually exiting the game, rebooting, then starting the game again solves the problem, and I can play with perfect FPS for as long as I want. I could not find any deterministic reason when this happens and when doesn't. It happens in every game I tried (SWTOR, Diablo 3, Skyrim), and not even games, but simple applications like a browser or the Control Panel can get unusably slow. This is a brand new PC I bought three months ago, and this problem occurs since the first day I've been using it. Could you provide any advice how to further diagnose the problem? I tried to reinstall Windows, and tried different video card drivers, but it did not help. It would be important to know whether this is a hardware or software problem, because I can use the warranty if it is a hardware issue. (I did not want to return the PC yet, because I can't reproduce the issue deterministically.) Spec of the pc: Motherboard: ASROCK H61M-HVS CPU: INTEL Core i3-2120 3.30GHz 1155 BOX Memory: KINGMAX 4096MB DDR3 1333MHz KIT Video card: GIGABYTE GV-R685OC-1GD HD6850 1GB GDDR5 PCIE HDD: SEAGATE 500GB Barracuda 7200rpm 16MB SATA3 ST500DM002 I am using Windows 7 64 bit. Thanks a lot in advance!

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• Windows 7 Blank Screen on Boot / Login

  - by Greg

  I have a new system that's having a few problems... sometimes (seems to be when the PC is cold, i.e. has been switched off for a while, though that could be my imagination) I get a blank blue screen when I boot up. The system boots normally and auto-logs-in. The desktop loads and I'm even able to launch applications, but then everything disappears and the screen goes to the default windows desktop blue colour (not the desktop image, just a plain blue with no mouse cursor). At this point the machine completely locks up - I'm unable to even toggle Num Lock and have to hold in the power button for 5 seconds to kill it. Interestingly if I manage to launch some applications before it goes blank, they will usually crash... sometimes explorer.exe will crash too. When I reboot, the system is fine and stable. I've installed the latest graphics drivers and run memtest86+ for 6 passes (and counting) with no errors. The system specs are: CPU: Intel I7 2.66 @ 3.4GHz RAM: 6GB (3 * 2GB DDR3) HDD: 128GB Crucial M225 SSD Motherboard: Gigabyte EX58-UD3R Gfx: ATI Radeon Sapphire 5870 1GB Note: There are a few similar questions but I haven't found one that matches my symptoms

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• Recommended Win2k8 Server software to fix my RAID-0 issue

  - by Jason Kealey

  I'm running an Asus P6T V2 Deluxe. It has six SATA ports and supports onboard RAID. I am using two of those ports for a RAID0 array of 1.5TB Seagate drives using the onboard RAID controller. One of them is giving me SMART warnings and I want to preemptively replace it. I pulled out two other 1.5TB drives from another computer and am ready to use one or both, if necessary. I can't run any SMART diagnostic software from within Windows because it only sees the hardware RAID-0 array, not each individual drive. The first thing I tried was a slow sector-by-sector copy using a free tool called EASEUS Disk Copy. Used the bootdisk, copied (took like 16 hours), unplugged the defective drive and plugged the new one in its place. The motherboard didn't recognize the new drive as being part of the known setup, so it did not want to boot. The second thing I tried was using other software (I forget the name) to copy the partition from within Windows. The first software failed because I had a server operating system. I found another software (I forget the name) which supported a server OS and did a partition copy onto the new drive. This seemed to work and the OS started to boot, but blue screened and started a reboot cycle. I'm assuming the software I was using was no good as it was trying to copy the boot disk while it was in use. I am looking for recommendations on what software to use to fix my problem without doing a re-install. Everything is backed up but my computer works fine and I'd like to avoid re-installation when possible. However, my system would be back up now if I had just started over on a second RAID array. :)

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• External HDD incorrectly detected as internal - how change to enable hot swap/eject?

  - by Sam

  I have win 7 x64 Home Prem. The HDD is a seagate barracuda, 7200.7 ST3120827AS. 3.5", Serial: 3ms006n6, Firmware: 3.42 (no further updates) NexStar CX External case (drivers installed). I have three drives: WD320 with OS installed WD750 data storage (internal) seagate 120 (external) - connected via esata board connected to sata on motherboard (MSI p43 neo) Tried uninstalling HDD in device manager to no effect. Also the internal WD750 is detected as an external drive and win taskbar icon allows for it to be ejected (unlike the seagate). All drives are configured - Online, Simple, Basic, NTFS, Active, Primary Partition (except c drive). The seagate was previously used as a primary disk with XP operating system so I deleted the volume and created/reformatted (not quick). HDD is no longer "Active". But did not fix problem. Background Originally, I installed win 7 with the bios set to IDE and forgot to install the chipset drivers. Then I changed win 7 to install the AHCI drivers, changed the bios to AHCI and rebooted. Win 7 loaded drivers but WD HDD gave problems/crashed. I installed chipset drivers and latest intell storage matrix software thingie (in safe mode). Everything worked fine after that except for the problem of not corrrectly detecting the external drive] I have noticed that under the driver properties (and similarly in the registry) the two drives are configured differently (e.g. in driver details property capabilities for the WD the value is set to 0000006, CM_DEVCAP_REMOVABLE & EJECTSUPPORTED - whereas the seagate shows 0000080 & CM_DEVCAP_SURPRISEREMOVALOK). Any easy way to configure things? I tried physically swapping the sata connections on the mainboard without success So far I have found that a solution to my problem might be to perform some reg changes: How do I remove the option to eject SATA drives from the Windows 7 tray icon?

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• Western Digital HDD disappears and reappears in BIOS

  - by tbkn23

  I know many people asked about similar problems, but I have a very specific case where I can't understand what's going on... I have a 3TB Western Digital Caviar Green disk connected in my Desktop, that also has a seagate 1.5TB disk and 2 SSD drives (OCZ and Sandisk). After working fine for quite some time (probably more than a year), suddenly my Caviar Green drive disappeared from windows. I checked the BIOS, and it wasn't there either. I opened my PC, played with the connectors, power, etc, but nothing helped. Even tried switching connectors with those of the 1.5TB disk, and nothing changed, the 1.5TB seagate was there, but the 3TB WD was not. Ok, now for the strange part. I have another desktop at home, so I took out my 3TB drive, connected it there, and it worked fine! I copied the most important files out of it, and then made another attempt in the original desktop. Surprise! It now appeared in the BIOS and worked fine! I even ran the SMART test with the WD tools and it said everything was intact. It doesn't end here. After leaving it overnight in the original desktop, it disappeared again in the morning. I repeated the entire process, connecting it to the second desktop, and there it is again working fine. Now for my question... Whats going on? The disk seems to be appearing on/off in my original Desktop, while other drives there work fine. SMART test says the disk is fine. Any ideas? Is the disk defective and should be replaced? Or maybe there's a problem with the controller in the desktop? I'm using a Gigabyte GA-880GA-UD3H motherboard and tried connecting the drive to both bridges (SATA2 and SATA3 bridges). Thanks EDIT: Power options are set never to turn off hard drives:

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• Dual Boot Installing Ubuntu 12.04 with Windows 7 (64) on a non UEFI system fails

  - by Randnum

  I cannot seem to install the correct boot loader for a non-UEFI firmware system. I'm trying to install Ubuntu 12.04 and Windows 7 (64) which are technically compatible with GPT but for windows only if the firmware is UEFI enabled. My system uses the old BIOS system and does not support UEFI. Therefore, whenever I finish my Ubuntu install and try to install Windows I get a "cannot install to GPT partition type" error. Even if I use Gparted to format a special NTFS file format for windows it can't handle the GPT partition style because it doesn't have UEFI. But my ubuntu install always forces GPT during installation and never asks if I want to install the old BIOS style MBR instead. How do I resolve this? Both OS's will install fine on their own the problem is when I try to install the second OS it doesn't recognize any of the other's partitions and tries to rewrite it's own on top of the other. I've tried both OS's first and always run into the same problem. Since there is no way to make Windows recognize GPT without upgrading my Motherboard how do I tell Ubuntu to use the old BIOS MBR on install? Do I have to download a special Ubuntu with a specific grub version? or should I manaually configure my partition somehow to force it not to use GPT? Thank you,

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• Win 7 Media Center - TV - No audio on HD channels

  - by Chuzein Part II

  I wonder if you can help. I have recently purchased a PCTV Nanostick DVD-T2 290e I am running Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit and I use Windows media center for almost everything. I run a media center machine in my lounge through my Sony AV Amp onto my HD TV. I bought the Nanostick to watch ‘Freeview HD’ programmes when watching the TV through the Media Center – I also have a Sony Freeview Plus system that the Mrs uses. I installed the Nanostick with relatively no issues and as described by many user reviews Media Center picked up the new USB tuner and scanned all the new channels and I was presented with all the HD channels. The issue I have is that there is no audio sound from the HD channels but perfect video. SD works fine. The software that comes with the Nanostick works fine – both sound and vision are perfect for the HD channels. As mentioned, I run my Media Centre lots. I have an extensive DVD and BD collection stored on a server and DVD and BD all play perfectly through Arcsoft Total Media Theatre 5 – with no issues on either SD or HD. My sound card is built into my motherboard and that sends the audio signal to my gfx card and that in turn passes it through to my Sony AV Amp that decodes the audio to be heard on my 5.1 set up. Does anyone have any ideas. I have searched lots on the net and I cant find anyone else with the same issue. I am aware of codecs etc but I don’t really understand it. It also puzzles me that when I read the user/buyer reviews for this product so many people tell the story of faultless installations on the same kind of set up as me.

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• Surround in Windows 7 with Soundmax

  - by Henri

  Hey guys, I have a asus m2n motherboard with a Soundmax 1988 chip on it. I want to have surround sound in windows 7, but i cant get it to work. I tried a lot of different drivers, including the latest beta for Win 7. The problem is that when I configure the speakers and i do a "Test" all speakers work. But whenever I want to play some video or mp3, only the front speakers work. In vista there was this option called "Surround Fill" that would fix this problem, however, I cant seem to find that in windows 7. (The enhancements tab is completely gone for the speakers, other output devices do have that tab). Anybody knows the fix? Edit: I got it now kind of working by using a trial version of SRS AudioSandbox. However, the quality is quite bad since the program tries to create a real 5.1 of stereo sound. I just want to have stereo over 4 speakers instead of fake 5.1 over 4 speakers.

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• Figuring out which PC part is faulty

  - by Davy8

  I have an odd scenario and I'm having trouble figuring out which is the faulty component. First of all, the video doesn't work, monitor says it's not getting a signal. Monitor's not faulty (works on other computer) so the first suspect was video card. However 2 things make me think it's not the video card. (Don't have another machine with PCIe around to test definitively) First, the GPU fan is spinning so it's getting power. Second, tried putting in an older PCI video card that is known to be working (pulled out of another working machine) and there's still no video. Normally if it's not the video card I'd suspect the motherboard, but everything's getting power on the mobo, so I'm not sure. The case apparently doesn't have system speakers, so can't hear any of the diagnostic beeps either. Also not sure whether a faulty CPU would cause no image at all either. The parts are brand new so something's going to get RMA'd but I'm not sure which component is to blame in this case. (Only slightly related, but I also accidentally put too much thermal paste on the CPU. The fan/heatsink instructions said to put the whole tube which seemed like a lot compared to previous experience, and as I started squeezing I knew it was definitely too much and stopped at about 1/3 but against my better judgement I didn't wipe any off. I'm not sure whether that would cause problems other than not cooling as effectively as it should)

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• computer freezes but music continues

  - by Danny

  Recently I have had a problem where my computer will freeze completely but if I happen to be streaming Pandora in a tab that will continue playing. If I wait about 2-5 minutes it will eventually come back and start working normally. I also noticed that during the period that it is unresponsive that the HDD activity light stays lit the whole time, not flashing. I've ran memtest86+ and a diagnostic from Western Digital for my HDD model and none of them reported any errors. The specs for my computer are 1 x ASRock H55M/USB3 R2.0 LGA 1156 Intel H55 HDMI USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard 1 x CORSAIR Enthusiast Series CMPSU-550VX 550W ATX12V V2.2 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply 1 x Intel Core i3-540 Clarkdale 3.06GHz LGA 1156 73W Dual-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics BX80616I3540 1 x G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBNQ 1 x ASUS PCE-N13 PCI Express 150/300Mbps Transfer/Receive Rate Wireless Adapter 1 x EVGA 01G-P3-1556-KR GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Fermi) FPB 1GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card I can't imagine what would be causing these problems.

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• (Win7) Gets stuck with ~1% CPU. Especially with multithreading

  - by meow

  Windows 7 32 bit, up to date, Intel i7 860. (For some reason the company runs 32bit Windows everywhere.) I tried to update all motherboard drivers etc. as far as possible. I have a performance issue with a machine which appears in connection with multithreading (or so I think). As an example (and where I most often see it, but it appears on other programs as well): ProteoWizard is a file conversion tool for mass spectrometry files. I can add a list of files and it will attempt to process up to 8 files in parallel (quadcore x 2 threads/core). If I choose 1 to 6 files, I start the process and it goes straight through. If I have =7 files in the queue, conversion goes to ~20%, then gets stuck for 15 seconds, then continues again, always in "chunks" of a few % before getting stuck again. During the time the process is stuck, CPU is at 1%. RAM is not limiting, it is maybe at 70% or so and not going up. I don't get the same problem on other, even slower machines. The computer gets also stuck at 1% CPU doing nothing on other occasions, but for multithreading it is most frequent. Where should I look for the problem?

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• Can not boot windows XP from cloned hard disk - what can I do?

  - by Martin

  My configuration: a PC (some years old) with MSI K8N-Neo-4F Motherboard, 1 GB RAM. Disk 1 (Maxtor, SATA II, 250 GB): 2 Partitions, on Partition 1 (48 GB): Windows XP Professional (NTFS) on Partition 2 (190 GB): data (NTFS) I wanted to have a larger and faster disk (the PC is incredibly slow and permanently the disk is rattling when I try to open an application or during Windows startup), so I took Disk 2 (Seagate, Sata II, 500 GB), installed in the PC, created at first a 400 GB-partition at the end of the disk and cloned the data to it, which worked well Installed a swap partition and a partition for Ubuntu Linux 12.10 on the first "part" of the disk so I was able to boot Linux and the old Windows XP with the Linux "System selection" at startup. Now I wanted to move Windows XP to the new disk, deleted the Linux partitions cloned Windows XP to the new disk (with free tools - EASESUS), left both disks in the PC and tried to select the new hard drive during boot as boot partition. This did not work, the PC refused to boot from this second disk. I tried many things like making the boot partition on the 2nd drive "active" in the Windows System Preferences modifying the boot.ini file to boot from the second disk - tried to boot from it, but ended with an error message stating that it was not possible to boot from this disk because of a hardware failure or something else or so removing the original disk and plugging the new one on the same SATA port as the original one - also booting failed with an error message repairing the MBR by booting into recovery mode from the Windows XP Installation CD-ROM, selecting the second disk and doing "FIXMBR" which said that everything was fine with the MBR. after that at least the PC tried to boot from the newer disk and then startup was hanging during the blue screen with the Windows Logo.... no luck. ... deleting the cloned partition and cloning again - this time with Macrium Reflect Free version... - no success during booting. I tried a lot of things with no success, so I wonder what I am doing wrong?! What could I do to successfully clone my Win XP partition to replace the original disk by a larger one which is bootable.

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• System With Two Network Adapters

  - by Synetech inc.

  Hi, My system has a NIC (Marvell Yukon) built-into the motherboard, but I also have a D-Link (RealTek) card. I figure that using the D-Link and disabling the Marvell makes the most sense, though I'm wondering if maybe the built-in one has better throughput (not that my Internet connection is so fast). Also, I'm wondering about the merits of using both at the same time. My router has four ports and I have experimented with enabling and plugging both NICs into the router. I was able to connect to the Internet, but the pattern of usage seemed irregular (which adapter was chosen for the transfer and any given point). I also considered bridging the two, but am having difficulty in finding out what exactly creating network bridge does in the context of the Windows Network Connections window. I am familiar with the concept of connecting networks, so it seems to me that birding two connections on the same segment is pointless at best (and can cause problems like loops?) Does anyone have any tips on what to do if a system has more than one NIC and any clarification on the bridge option? Thanks a lot.

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• In Windows 7 power management, is it possible to set different sleep settings for different SATA disks?

  - by Ben Voigt

  I'm having an issue with Windows 7 either freezing up or generating a BSOD coming out of sleep. I suspect that it is related to my boot/OS drive, an OCZ Vertex SE SSD, because numerous other Vertex users have reported sleep problems. Notably, if I put the computer to sleep, it almost always wakes correctly. If it goes to sleep after a timeout, it almost always BSODs. I disabled timed sleep and now it freezes when left unattended. My next step is to disable "Put hard disks to sleep after X minutes", but I'd like to change this setting only for the SSD and not for the rotating data disks, which I would like to spin down normally. Does anyone know a place to configure sleep on a per-disk basis? I don't need to set different timeouts on different disks (although that would be nice), simply setting "this disk sleeps" and "sleep is disabled for this disk" would be great. Additional system information: Windows 7 Ultimate x64, Core i5 - P55 chipset, Intel RST drivers are installed. One SSD, two rotating HDD, and a DVD-RW drive are all connected to the Intel SATA ports. I could potentially move some of these to my motherboard's other SATA controller if that would help.

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• Can you help me understand my SATA/RAID options?

  - by andrz_001

  I've a gigabyte GA-M720-US3 motherboard. Recently, I noticed the following during boot: IDE channel 0 Master (none) IDE channel 0 Slave (none) IDE channel 2 Master (my hdd) IDE channel 2 Slave (my dvd drive) IDE channel 3 Master (none) IDE channel 3 Slave (none) Of course, the same information is contained in the BIOS/CMOS. The HDD is connected to the mobo via a SATA(2?) cable at the port(?) labeled SATA2_0. The DVD drive is connected by a similar cable at SATA2_1. Why doesn't the information displayed during the boot and in BIOS reflect how I plugged the cables in? I mean, why "none" for channel 0 when there is something in SATA2_0. (or is that serious naivete on my part!?) Where's Channel 1 master and slave? Since these are SATA cables and not the IDE ribbons from a time ago, why the whole master/slave declaration during boot and in BIOS? Should my BIOS reflect the fact that these are SATA cables? I mean, in BIOS, should the "Onchip SATA mode IDE" be set to RAID or AHCI instead of IDE? Any replies, answers, suggestions, links, tips will be much appreciated. Thank you in advance!

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• At what point does the performance gap between GPU & CPU become so great that the CPU is holding back a system?

  - by Matthew Galloway

  I know that generally speaking for gaming performance the GPU is the primary factor which holds back performance, with everything else such as RAM/motherboard/PSU/CPU being secondary in importance to the graphics card. But at some point the other components ARE going to be significant in holding back the whole system! For instance nobody would be silly enough to play modern games with 512MB RAM and the very latest graphics cards (such as an HD7970) as I bet the performance increase over such a system with only 512MB but a mid range card would be non-existent! Thus it would be a "waste" for such a person to buy any high end graphics card without resolving first the system's other problems. The same point applies to other components, such as if it only had a Pentium II a current high end graphics card would be wasted on it! So my core question is how do you determine at what point for your system is spending on extra GPU power be completely "wasted"? (also, a slightly more nuanced question is trying work out at what point might the extra graphics power not be "wasted" but would be "sub optimal" value for money, when the expenditure should then be split around graphics card and other components. As obviously a gamer shouldn't always just spend on upgrading the graphics card! But needs to balance it out)

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• Win7 Hangs During App Install/Upgrade/Uninstall

  - by JadeMason

  I have a custom built PC that intermittently hangs when installing, uninstalling, or upgrading applications. Technical Specs ASUS P5E w/ WiFi Motherboard Intel Core2 Quad Q6600 Processor 4x 2GB G.Skill DDR2 800 SDRAM ASUS EAH2900XT / Radeon HD 2900XT 512MB Video Card Under normal operation the machine runs reliably, even under heavy load, such as video transcoding. The temperature never gets anywhere near where I would worry about it. However, the machine regularly hangs (complete lockup, no response to keyboard or mouse, no activity on-screen) when either installing a new application, uninstalling an existing application, or applying patches to existing applications or the OS. This is extremely frustrating as this machine is primarily used as a HTPC. Several apps are configured for automatic updates, and these updates sometimes cause the machine to lockup while we are watching content on the PC. In previously investigating this issue, I found one likely problem could be my Logitech Webcam. The Logitech software has a bug that leaves an entry in HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\ Control\SessionManager\PendingFileRenameOperations Which references the Temp directory. My registry contained this error, so I uninstalled the webcam software and deleted this registry key value. Unfortunately, the machine will still intermittently hang. I've noticed that the hangs always happen when an install/upgrade/uninstall requires elevated privileges (presumably to modify the registry). I can typically get at least one install/upgrade/uninstall to complete after a reboot, but after that it is a game of russian roulette to see if the operation will succeed or hang the machine. The event log is not helpful, as log messages end at the time of the hang, with no record of a warning or error. My only recourse when the machine hangs in this way is to perform a hard reset/power cycle. Any tips on how to further debug this issue are greatly appreciated.

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• Cannot install windows. Compaq Presario CQ62

  - by Matthew

  I bought a used Compaq Presario CQ62 for cheap, and went to install windows on it. I formatted the partition and went to install when I got this error.... Windows cannot install required files. The file may be corrupt or missing. Make sure all files required for installation are available and restart the installation. Error code: 0x80070017 I have used this disk before with no problems, but internet searching suggested I burn one at 2x speed because that helps for some reason... I'm burning one now, but my question is, why would I get this error, OTHER than the disc being bad? I'm pretty certain this one isn't as I have used it before... (ok so the slowly burned cd (using imgburn) didn't work either so it's DEFINITELY not the disc) Thanks in advanced for any answers Also I took one stick of ram out because internet searching also suggested that, but it didn't make a difference. Also I ran memory and hard drive checks and they passed fine. Also I reset the motherboard options to default What could it be!? Help I'm completely stumped...

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• My new SSD is causing issues. How can I solve them?

  - by Allan

  Computer specs 1 TB harddisc 120 GB 520intel SSD 8 GB DDR3 RAM Athlon Phenom II x64 955 3. 2ghz DK DFI Lanparty FX7900 M3H3 motherboard ASUS ATI RADEON HD6970 2 GB I have bought a new SSD (Intel 520, 120 GB), and wanted to use this as my system disc. I removed the other harddisc, and installed the SSD with the newest firmware. And then Windows 7 I updated Windows 7 with no problems and then put back my old harddrive. I formatted that old harddrive just to clean up at the same time... So at this stage everything was perfect. My new SSD was set as Master 0 Primary it boots on it and I have 1 TB emptyu harddrive I can use for whatever I want. So far no errors at all Now here is the problem, I installed a few games and everytime I tried to play the computer would say Windows must restart because DCOM server process launcher service terminated, or it says Windows must now restart because the Plug and Play service terminated unexpectedly Most commonly this error is caused by a rootkit virus, well I have tried formatting my entire computer, and running every antivirus I could find, so that shouldn't be it. I've also read somewhere it might happen when there are hardware issues. That on the otherhand would make sense, as I just put in a new SSD. I don't expect you to know this error. I haven't found anyone who knew it yet. maybe you can me guide through what might have gone wrong when I placed in the SSD? What have I checked regarding the SSD? It displays the right name when the computer starts up It has the newest firmware Did a 'sfc /scannow' which told me everything was fine I don't know what to do from here. Everything seems to work great with the drive. when I start playing games my computer crashes.

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• PC in POST loop

  - by Antony Scott

  Hi, I have a custom built PC using a Gigabyte GA-EP35-DS3P motherboard with a Q6600 CPU. For the last 2 days it has got itself stuck into a POST loop. Saying that, I don't think it actually got in to the BIOS. It repeatedly lit up the LEDs and then not much more. Sometimes I could see the CPU fan twitch. Today I re-seated the DIMMs and it powered up straight away. Could this be a sign of an impending hardware failure? The PC is hooked up to a UPS, so I don't think it's a power spike or anything like that, as I have 2 other PCs on the same UPS and they're both fine. Yesterday, the first time this happened, I was getting a message which I think said "Scanning BIOS image on hard drive". I've been building and using PCs for well over 25 years and that's a new one on me! I don't think it's an over heating problem, as when the PC does finally boot up the CPU is running at 35-40C. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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• Gateway laptop module bay light repeating 12 flashes - what error is that?

  - by Simurr

  I have a Gateway M465-E laptop currently running fine with a T2300E Core Duo installed. I wanted to upgrade it to a Core 2 Duo. My brother has the same model laptop and that took a Core 2 Duo (T7200) just fine. Picked up a T7200 on ebay and installed it. Normally when booting all the indicator lights flash once and the fan spins up before the machine actually starts to POST. With the T7200 installed all the lights flash and the fan spins up, but the module bay activity light flashes 12 times repeatedly. I'm assuming this is an error code, but can find no information about it. There are no beep codes. I've removed the ram, HD, Bay module and no change. Switched back to the T2300E and everything works fine. Anyone know what that error code is? The motherboard was actually manufactured by Foxconn if that helps. Update 1 Returned the CPU as defective. I tested it in 3 M465-E's and all of them did exactly the same thing. I still have no idea what the error code is. I'd still like to know for future reference. Perhaps I should try removing the CPU from one of them and see what happens.

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• Nvidia RAID 1 Problem. Degraded drives...

  - by Vedat Kursun

  I had a RAID 1 on my system which has a Gigabyte GA 8N SLI motherboard with a Nvidia chipset.(Nvidia Raid IDE ROM BIOS 4.84) When the system was working probably there used to be an icon on the system try which showed my two RAID disks. Bu after my friend accidentally clicked on the "Remove drive safely" icon while trying to disconnect her USB, I noticed that the RAID system wasn't working. After a reboot there was suddenly a failure message during boot screen. When I enter the Nvidia RAID setup utility (F10) I can see that both drives are degraded and that won't change even if I get into them and press R for Rebuild. Other options are only Delete and Exit. When I boot to Windows (XP Pro 32 Bit) I can see both my disks with the same data on each of them but my RAID 1 is broken. It's a relief to see that at least my RAID 1 was active but it's annoying not being able to rebuild it. Is there a way where I can rebuild my RAID 1 without having to delete the array and build it again? Cause I don't want to backup 400 Gigs of data and then recopy it to my drives... (Disks 2 x Seagate ST3500418 AS SATA Drives)

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• Nvidia RAID 1 Problem. Degraded drives...

  - by Vedat Kursun

  I had a RAID 1 on my system which has a Gigabyte GA 8N SLI motherboard with a Nvidia chipset.(Nvidia Raid IDE ROM BIOS 4.84) When the system was working probably there used to be an icon on the system try which showed my two RAID disks. Bu after my friend accidentally clicked on the "Remove drive safely" icon while trying to disconnect her USB, I noticed that the RAID system wasn't working. After a reboot there was suddenly a failure message during boot screen. When I enter the Nvidia RAID setup utility (F10) I can see that both drives are degraded and that won't change even if I get into them and press R for Rebuild. Other options are only Delete and Exit. When I boot to Windows (XP Pro 32 Bit) I can see both my disks with the same data on each of them but my RAID 1 is broken. It's a relief to see that at least my RAID 1 was active but it's annoying not being able to rebuild it. Is there a way where I can rebuild my RAID 1 without having to delete the array and build it again? Cause I don't want to backup 400 Gigs of data and then recopy it to my drives... (Disks 2 x Seagate ST3500418 AS SATA Drives)

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• Getting a "CPU over temperature error", but temperatures seem to be normal

  - by Luis Parker

  I built a PC with the following parts: CPU: i5-2500 Motherboard: Asus P8H67-M EVO rev 3.0 RAM: G-Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1333 Video: GTX 560-Ti 1GB I used a crappy (but functioning) old case and a 500W Powercooler supply. The rig also includes 3 HDs and a DVD-RW. Whenever I push the system mildly it resets right away (looks more like power off/power on) and gives me a "CPU over temperature error". However, BIOS always reports <65ºC for the CPU at the moment of the reset, same as Core Temp and RealTemp. This is RealTemp's log since launching BF3 until the reset (just over 1 minute, as you can see) Just to be sure I've checked the CPU cooler and re-applied the thermal paste twice, but nothing changed. I'm not overclocking at all. What am I missing here? Could it be that the old power supply is generating this error? Maybe the mobo isn't reporting temperatures correctly? I don't have a clue on how to troubleshoot this, help Thanks in advance!

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