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  • What's a good(affordable) business router that can limit traffic to certain machines(ips/ports)?

    - by Ryan Detzel
    We are using the basic Verizon router but it sucks so we're looking for a new one that allows us to limit users and our hadoop cluster to certain limits. Our problem is one person can start downloading something and kill the network and every hour we download logs into our cluster but it floods the network unless we rate limit it. Ideally we want to be able to say: total: 35 mbps Hadoop Cluster (15 mbps) Phones (1 mbps) Office(25 people) (19mbps but no one machine can have more than 5mbps)

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  • Slow down individual connections passing through a Linux router?

    - by davr
    We have a Linux server acting as a router/firewall for our office. Occasionally someone will upload a large file that takes up all our bandwidth. I don't want to implement any complex rules or traffic shaping, but I'm wondering if there is a way to slow down a single connection on the spot? I found tcpnice, but it doesn't slow down the transfers in my testing.

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  • How to limit traffic on a router based on IP?

    - by YuriKolovsky
    how to limit internet traffic on a router based on a LAN IP. so that for example on a 10mb/s internet connection I can have a IP Camera with a dedicated 1mb/s, 2 computers with 3mb/s, and 2 computers with 6mb/s. as far as I know it's called something like traffic-shaping... I'm really not sure how this all is called, so please show me or point me at some guide for dummies. :)

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  • router with mixed-mode enabled - does it really cripple speeds for all?

    - by Mark C
    Hey all, If I have a router that has "mixed mode" enabled to allow b, g, and n devices, it is true that n devices will suffer in reduced bandwidth if there are any non-n devices connected? I found one article on the internet after a quick google search: http://www.wi-fiplanet.com/news/article.php/3335801 Can anyone corroborate or give their opinion on the matter? Thanks!

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  • DNS for private network - should router be the DNS server?

    - by smcg
    I want to set up BIND for a private subdomain on a private network, like in the question here: How to configure bind for a private subdomain? My question is this - should my (linux) router act as the DNS server for this? Or should I have a seperate machine on the network acting as the DNS server? Does it not matter as long as all the machines on the network are configured to resolve to the internal DNS server?

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  • How to change the firmware of my NETGEAR WGT624 v2 to DD-WRT

    - by Lirik
    In reference to my previous question: I can't find the appropriate firmware for my NETGEAR WGT624 v2 router. I went on the dd-wrt web site and I read the wiki, but I didn't see any files or instructions on how to change the firmware. The router database lists my router, but as I said: no files. In addition the "Supported" column lists "wip", what is wip? Router Database 4 routers found Manufacturer Model Revision Supported Activation required Netgear WGT624 v1 wip no Netgear WGT624 v2 wip no ... The only thing listed for my router on the dd-wrt web site is: Router details Chipset: AR2312A RAM: 16 MB FLASH: 4 MB Additional information * OpenWRT Wiki: Netgear WGT624 * Unbrick procedure Is the router supported? Can I change the firmware? If yes, then how can I change it?

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  • HomeMade/DIY NAS solution

    - by MicTech
    Has anyone experience with building NAS (Network-attached storage) for home/small office using? What component would you recommend? Hardware CPU motherboard HDDs RAID controller etc. Software OS FTP HTTP etc.

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  • wireless connection will not authenticate with verizon adsl router

    - by eric
    hello, i have ubunto 10.10 running on an old dell xps system. when i set it up i had internet through my home wifi router on my cable modem. now the dell is at another home with an ADSL wifi router from verizon. we have entered the ssid and wep key as given from the adsl router. the other windows computers connect with the wep key and automatic detection. the ubuntu dell detects the connection but does not autenticate, keeps asking for wep key. i have tried diferent settings regarding wep, wpa, wep with hex and asci, still no results. what am i doing wrong? help please. thanks.

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  • Downgrade to LTS version, preserving /home partition: Should I expect this to work?

    - by Archelon
    Specifically, I'm installing Kubuntu 12.04 over 13.04. And in fact I've already done it, and it seems to have at least mostly worked, but I'm wondering whether this one anomaly is likely to be attributable to the downgrade; to wit: I have no window borders|decorations, but only wide, featureless, white---or sometimes black---margins around all my windows. None of the settings in System Settings (the window border and decorations options are in Workspace Appearance) seem to have any effect. Is this likely to be fixable, or should I cut my losses and reinstall (formatting the /home partition and restoring any data with rsync)?

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  • To same computer Remote desktop thrue WRT54G router

    - by Kangarooo
    Cant access from my Same comp same comp to test if all is ok. Tryd all mentioned posibilities. Tryd my ip xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx / localhost with / without :5900 added with / without in "Remote desktop" checked "Configure network automatically to accept connection" with / without in router WRT54G enabled port 5900 forwardet to my comp 192.168.1.3 UPNP is enabled. I can connect to one other comp witch isnt using router and checked "Configure network automatically to accept connection" and to one thrue TENDA W311R+ router where ive put port forwarding to 5900 and there works xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx:5900 Whats wrong? What ive missed?

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  • exchange live feed with pre-recorded video for wireless internet camera to router

    - by nate
    I wasn't sure if this should be asked in Web Applications, or Network Engineering, or what... Long story short, I have a video camera with mic that is wirelessly connected to a router (NETGEAR R6200), which can then be viewed through an online service. I would like to be able to somehow exchange the live feed with a pre-recorded video, or image, preferably with pre-recorded sound (the sound of silence would be easiest). Can I place this inbetween the camera and the router, do I need to redirect the camera feed to my laptop first, and then push out the fake video/audio onto the router, without the service knowing the difference? Thanks much and I hope this is well understood!

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  • To same computer Remote desktop thrue WRT54G router

    - by Kangarooo
    Can't access from my Same comp to same comp to test if all is ok. Tried all mentioned posibilities. Tryd my ip xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx / localhost with / without :5900 added with / without in "Remote desktop" checked "Configure network automatically to accept connection" with / without in router WRT54G enabled port 5900 forwardet to my comp 192.168.1.3 UPNP is enabled. I can connect to one other comp whitch isn't using router and checked "Configure network automatically to accept connection" and to one through TENDA W311R+ router where i've put port forwarding to 5900 and there works xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx:5900 What's wrong? What have i missed?

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  • overriding the Home Key Long press in a category.HOME activity.

    - by Profete162
    Hello all, I just created my own "Home" to replace the stock android one or Sense. All is working fine and I get all I want. My only problem is to replace to long press on home key ( that usually show the last 6 activities you launched) by my own launcher. I successfully replace the long press on MENU button with this code: @Override public boolean onKeyDown(int keyCode, KeyEvent event) { //Log.i(TAG,"Keycode: "+keyCode); if (keyCode == KeyEvent.KEYCODE_MENU) { // this tells the framework to start tracking for // a long press and eventual key up. it will only // do so if this is the first down (not a repeat). event.startTracking(); return true; } (...) and this part part for the long press: @Override public boolean onKeyLongPress(int keyCode, KeyEvent event) { //Log.i(TAG,"LONG"+keyCode); Toast.makeText(Launcher.this,"LONG "+keyCode, Toast.LENGTH_SHORT).show(); if (keyCode == KeyEvent.KEYCODE_MENU) { (...) But the problem is that I wasn't able to replace the KeyEvent.KEYCODE_MENU with KeyEvent.KEYCODE_HOME is that something locked in the code that avoid user to use a Home long press? Thank a lot for all the information you woulg give me.

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  • Disable home button in android toddler app?

    - by cmerrell
    I've developed and app that is a slide show of pictures which each play a sound when you tap them. It's like a picture book for ages 2-4. The problem is, since android won't let you capture a home button press and essentially disable it, when parents give the phone to their child to play with unattended (brave parent), the child can inadvertenly exit the app and then make calls or otherwise tweak the phone. There are two other apps that currently have a psuedo fix for this issue. The apps are Toddler Lock and ToddlePhone. I've tried contacting the developers of these apps for some guidance but they haven't been willing to disclose anything, which if fine, but does anyone here have any suggestions? It looks like both of those other apps are acting like a home screen replacement app. When you enable the "childproof mode" on those apps the user is prompted to chose and app for the action and the choices are "Launcher, LauncherPro, etc." plus the toddler app. You then have to make the toddler app the default and voila, the phone is "locked" and can only be "unlocked" using a key combination or touching the four corners of the screen, etc. when you "unlock" the phone. your normal home screen app default restored. You don't even have to make the toddler app the default the next time you enable the "childproof mode". I have read that these two apps have problems with Samsung phones and they can cause an an infinite crash-and-restart-loop that requires a factory reset to fix. Obviously this is not the ideal solution to the problem but it looks like the only one availiable at this point. Does anyone have any ideas on how to implement a "childproof mode"?

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  • Determining the required depth and specifications for a server cabinet

    - by Bingu Bingme
    I'm trying to understand the considerations ("why") that go into determining the specifications ("what") for a rackmount server cabinet, in order to determine what sort of rack I should purchase for my home use. Since this is for home use, I won't be following certain best practices (eg. hot/cold aisle, not even air conditioning) and may be willing to sacrifice in various areas in order to reduce cost and footprint - but please advise if there are safety concerns or other considerations to note. The most basic specs for a server cabinet are the dimensions (external width x external depth x usable height). Width: commonly 600mm or 800mm (if the use case requires extra clearance around the sides, such as if there is lots of cabling). In my case and most common cases, I'm going to stick with 600mm. Height: Select a sufficiently tall rack to fit my equipment. But how much may I stuff into it? Eg, if there is a 15U rack, can I really populate it with 15U of servers, or should I leave 1U at top and bottom for air circulation? Depth: Racks commonly have external depth of 600mm (network equipment), 800mm, 1000mm, or even longer. I'm trying to see how to fit into the 800mm depth. With reference to http://www.server-racks.com/rack-mount-depth.html, I'm hoping to have the front and rear posts mounted ~ 28.5" (72cm) apart, which would leave only 8cm for front space and rear space. How much rear space (from rear posts to back of rack) do I really need? I won't use cable management arms, so can I mount a 72cm depth server since the power, KVM, network cables won't take up much depth? My most important equipment are all < 60cm depth (4U chassis) and should comfortably fit within the 800mm cabinet. The rest of the equipment are very old 1U servers that range from 65-72cm depth. I might still want to make further use of them, or I might discard them since they are so old. Even if the 72cm servers cannot be powered on in an 800mm rack, I should be able to use them as 1U shelves. But, what server depth can I expect to be able to operate? Or am I forced to upgrade to 1000mm depth racks in order to use any servers deeper than 60cm? With reference to best practices for HP racks, some other specs and installation considerations: There aren't any minimum recommendations for clearance on the sides of the rack. It is recommended to leave 48" front clearance. The 48" front clearance is based on 32" chassis depth, 13" to extend the rack rails and mate the inner/outer rails, and 3" for movement. If I don't use such rails (eg, use shelves instead), it should be sufficient to leave front clearance of chassis depth + 3". It is recommended to leave 30" rear clearance "to provide space for servicing the rack". I'm planning to back the rack into a corner of the room, and wheel it slightly out when I need to access the rear. If the wheeling plan is ok, I still need to know how much rear clearance is required for air circulation and ventilation purposes. Castor wheels and stabilising feet. Since I'm backing the rack into a corner of the room, I'll only be able to set the stabilising feet on the front corners. Thoughts on safety? The rack that I'm considering has front glass doors with side ventilation slits and fully perforated rear doors. I'm hoping this will be a good balance between temperature and noise (only ventilation slits facing out the front, while the rear is facing the walls). Or is the sound of high-rpm fans going to escape through the front slits anyway and destroy my sanity?

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  • How to Upgrade Your Netbook to Windows 7 Home Premium

    - by Matthew Guay
    Would you like more features and flash in Windows on your netbook?  Here’s how you can easily upgrade your netbook to Windows 7 Home Premium the easy way. Most new netbooks today ship with Windows 7 Starter, which is the cheapest edition of Windows 7.  It is fine for many computing tasks, and will run all your favorite programs great, but it lacks many customization, multimedia, and business features found in higher editions.  Here we’ll show you how you can quickly upgrade your netbook to more full-featured edition of Windows 7 using Windows Anytime Upgrade.  Also, if you want to upgrade your laptop or desktop to another edition of Windows 7, say Professional, you can follow these same steps to upgrade it, too. Please note: This is only for computers already running Windows 7.  If your netbook is running XP or Vista, you will have to run a traditional upgrade to install Windows 7. Upgrade Advisor First, let’s make sure your netbook can support the extra features, such as Aero Glass, in Windows 7 Home Premium.  Most modern netbooks that ship with Windows 7 Starter can run the advanced features in Windows 7 Home Premium, but let’s check just in case.  Download the Windows 7 Upgrade Advisor (link below), and install as normal. Once it’s installed, run it and click Start Check.   Make sure you’re connected to the internet before you run the check, or otherwise you may see this error message.  If you see it, click Ok and then connect to the internet and start the check again. It will now scan all of your programs and hardware to make sure they’re compatible with Windows 7.  Since you’re already running Windows 7 Starter, it will also tell you if your computer will support the features in other editions of Windows 7. After a few moments, the Upgrade Advisor will show you want it found.  Here we see that our netbook, a Samsung N150, can be upgraded to Windows 7 Home Premium, Professional, or Ultimate. We also see that we had one issue, but this was because a driver we had installed was not recognized.  Click “See all system requirements” to see what your netbook can do with the new edition. This shows you which of the requirements, including support for Windows Aero, your netbook meets.  Here our netbook supports Aero, so we’re ready to go upgrade. For more, check out our article on how to make sure your computer can run Windows 7 with Upgrade Advisor. Upgrade with Anytime Upgrade Now, we’re ready to upgrade our netbook to Windows 7 Home Premium.  Enter “Anytime Upgrade” in the Start menu search,and select Windows Anytime Upgrade. Windows Anytime Upgrade lets you upgrade using product key you already have or one you purchase during the upgrade process.  And, it installs without any downloads or Windows disks, so it works great even for netbooks without DVD drives. Anytime Upgrades are cheaper than a standard upgrade, and for a limited time, select retailers in the US are offering Anytime Upgrades to Windows 7 Home Premium for only $49.99 if purchased with a new netbook.  If you already have a netbook running Windows 7 Starter, you can either purchase an Anytime Upgrade package at a retail store or purchase a key online during the upgrade process for $79.95.  Or, if you have a standard Windows 7 product key (full or upgrade), you can use it in Anytime upgrade.  This is especially nice if you can purchase Windows 7 cheaper through your school, university, or office. Purchase an upgrade online To purchase an upgrade online, click “Go online to choose the edition of Windows 7 that’s best for you”.   Here you can see a comparison of the features of each edition of Windows 7.  Note that you can upgrade to either Home Premium, Professional, or Ultimate.  We chose home Premium because it has most of the features that home users want, including Media Center and Aero Glass effects.  Also note that the price of each upgrade is cheaper than the respective upgrade from Windows XP or Vista.  Click buy under the edition you want.   Enter your billing information, then your payment information.  Once you confirm your purchase, you will directly be taken to the Upgrade screen.  Make sure to save your receipt, as you will need the product key if you ever need to reinstall Windows on your computer. Upgrade with an existing product key If you purchased an Anytime Upgrade kit from a retailer, or already have a Full or Upgrade key for another edition of Windows 7, choose “Enter an upgrade key”. Enter your product key, and click Next.  If you purchased an Anytime Upgrade kit, the product key will be located on the inside of the case on a yellow sticker. The key will be verified as a valid key, and Anytime Upgrade will automatically choose the correct edition of Windows 7 based on your product key.  Click Next when this is finished. Continuing the Upgrade process Whether you entered a key or purchased a key online, the process is the same from here on.  Click “I accept” to accept the license agreement. Now, you’re ready to install your upgrade.  Make sure to save all open files and close any programs, and then click Upgrade. The upgrade only takes about 10 minutes in our experience but your mileage may vary.  Any available Microsoft updates, including ones for Office, Security Essentials, and other products, will be installed before the upgrade takes place. After a couple minutes, your computer will automatically reboot and finish the installation.  It will then reboot once more, and your computer will be ready to use!  Welcome to your new edition of Windows 7! Here’s a before and after shot of our desktop.  When you do an Anytime Upgrade, all of your programs, files, and settings will be just as they were before you upgraded.  The only change we noticed was that our pinned taskbar icons were slightly rearranged to the default order of Internet Explorer, Explorer, and Media Player.  Here’s a shot of our desktop before the upgrade.  Notice that all of our pinned programs and desktop icons are still there, as well as our taskbar customization (we are using small icons on the taskbar instead of the default large icons). Before, with the Windows 7 Starter background and the Aero Basic theme: And after, with Aero Glass and the more colorful default Windows 7 background.   All of the features of Windows 7 Home Premium are now ready to use.  The Aero theme was activate by default, but you can now customize your netbook theme, background, and more with the Personalization pane.  To open it, right-click on your desktop and select Personalize. You can also now use Windows Media Center, and can play-back DVD movies using an external drive. One of our favorite tools, the Snipping Tool, is also now available for easy screenshots and clips. Activating you new edition of Windows 7 You will still need to activate your new edition of Windows 7.  To do this right away, open the start menu, right-click on Computer, and select Properties.   Scroll to the bottom, and click “Activate Windows Now”. Make sure you’re connected to the internet, and then select “Activate Windows online now”. Activation may take a few minutes, depending on your internet connection speed. When it is done, the Activation wizard will let you know that Windows is activated and genuine.  Your upgrade is all finished! Conclusion Windows Anytime Upgrade makes it easy, and somewhat cheaper, to upgrade to another edition of Windows 7.  It’s useful for desktop and laptop owners who want to upgrade to Professional or Ultimate, but many more netbook owners will want to upgrade from Starter to Home Premium or another edition.  Links Download the Windows 7 Upgrade Advisor Windows Team Blog: Anytime Upgrade Special with new PC purchase Similar Articles Productive Geek Tips How To Upgrade from Vista to Windows 7 Home Premium EditionAnother Blog You Should Subscribe ToMysticgeek Blog: Turn Vista Home Premium Into Ultimate (Part 3) – Shadow CopyUpgrade Ubuntu from Breezy to DapperHow to Upgrade the Windows 7 RC to RTM (Final Release) TouchFreeze Alternative in AutoHotkey The Icy Undertow Desktop Windows Home Server – Backup to LAN The Clear & Clean Desktop Use This Bookmarklet to Easily Get Albums Use AutoHotkey to Assign a Hotkey to a Specific Window Latest Software Reviews Tinyhacker Random Tips DVDFab 6 Revo Uninstaller Pro Registry Mechanic 9 for Windows PC Tools Internet Security Suite 2010 Get Your Delicious Bookmarks In Firefox’s Awesome Bar Manage Photos Across Different Social Sites With Dropico Test Drive Windows 7 Online Download Wallpapers From National Geographic Site Spyware Blaster v4.3 Yes, it’s Patch Tuesday

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  • I just ordered 70/10 internet service, and need a new router I think?

    - by data_jepp
    Before I had 25/5 service and the N standard router did just fine. Now it doesn't do the job. Online speedtest reads at 82 so I have the line. But my laptop is getting less than 30 in my room. My laptop has the following WiFi card: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/wireless-products/centrino-advanced-n-6205.html What is this talk about 2.4 and 5GHz? Can my laptop be connected at once over both bands? And would that let me use the full 70Mb over Wi-Fi?

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  • Is there any viable alternative to using a linux/unix/BSD firewall/router/vpn?

    - by ObligatoryMoniker
    I am trying to purchase something to replace our Vyatta router that is running in a virtual machine on Hyper V (having the whole network go down when the host has to reboot is not convenient and I am getting the sense that this configuration may not be stable). Most posts on this topic suggest using Linux/OpenBSD/FreeBSD/etc with some recommendations to use appliances from vendors for specific purposes like firewall and VPN. We are a windows shop and it has been a stretch for us to make use of Vyatta but since it was free and straightforward to use we decided to use it. Now we need something that is easier for our team to (re)deploy and manage. I would rather purchase something windows based or an appliance that can do all of the following things: DHCP server (reservations, specified gateway, dns, etc) Static Routes that route traffic across three interfaces Easily Reproducible (Powershell script, Puppet, Chef, etc) Intuitive interface (Decent web interface would be fine but I don't want them to have to go to CLI) Does any one have any recommendations on what I should be looking at that might meet our needs?

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  • I just ordered 70/10 line, and need a new router I think?

    - by data_jepp
    Before I had the 25/5 line and the n standard router did just fine. Now it doesn't do the job. Online speedtest reads at 82 so I have the line. But my laptop is getting less than 30 in my room. My laptop has the following WiFi card: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/wireless-products/centrino-advanced-n-6205.html What is this talk about 2,5 and 5ghz? Can my laptop be connected at once over both bandwidths? And that would let me use the full 70Mb over wifi? Hope it's ok to ask network questions here.

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  • Where can I find old versions of linksys router firmware?

    - by Doug T.
    Hello everyone, I've had a headache of a weekend after upgrading to the latest firmware for my wrt54g. Suffice it to say I'm not satisfied with the latest version. Now I'm looking around for the previous version of the firmware out there on the interwebs and am having trouble. I noticed that linksys at one point had an ftp site: ftp://ftp.linksys.com. There you could find old firmware for your device. It now appears defunct. Does anyone know where I could find old firmware versions for my wrt54g router?

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  • How to maximise performance in computers connected into LAN via Gigabit ethernet router?

    - by penyuan
    Our group is setting up a server (which might just be a NAS, but we're not sure yet), which shares files, so that it connects to all other computers in the room (about 10 of them). I am thinking just hooking all of them up via a gigabit router/switch. Is there anything I should watch out for, in terms of cables, connections, or the connection capabilities of each computer in the network? For instance, I don't want a slow computer in the LAN to slow down everyone else's connection, etc., etc. Thanks for the education.

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  • Recommended storage scheme for home server? (LVM/JBOD/RAID 5...)

    - by j-g-faustus
    Are there any guidelines for which storage scheme(s) makes most sense for a multiple-disk home server? I am assuming a separate boot/OS disk (so bootability is not a concern, this is for data storage only) and 4-6 storage disks of 1-2 TB each, for a total storage capacity in the range 4-12 TB. The file system is ext4, I expect there will be only one big partition spanning all disks. As far as I can tell, the alternatives are individual disks pros: works with any combination of disk sizes; losing a disk loses only the data on that disk; no need for volume management. cons: data management is clumsy when logical units (like a "movies" folder) are larger than the capacity of any single drive. JBOD span pros: can merge disks of any size. cons: losing a disk loses all data on all disks LVM pros: can merge disks of any size; relatively simple to add and remove disks. cons: losing a disk loses all data on all disks RAID 0 pros: speed cons: losing one drive loses all data; disks must be same size RAID 5 pros: data survives losing one disk cons: gives up one disk worth of capacity; disks must be same size RAID 6 pros: data survives losing two disks cons: gives up two disks worth of capacity; disks must be same size I'm primarily considering either LVM or JBOD span simply because it will let me reuse older, smaller-capacity disks when I upgrade the system. The runner-up is RAID 0 for speed. I'm planning on having full backups to a separate system, so I expect the extra redundancy from RAID levels 5 or 6 won't be important. Is this a fair representation of the alternatives? Are there other considerations or alternatives I have missed? And what would you recommend?

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  • How can I use a computer as a router and send all client traffic through anonymous proxies?

    - by Terrapin
    Is there a way that I can setup a spare box as a router on my network, and route client traffic through a proxy in order to hide my location? Specifically, I would like internet traffic to/from my Roku Box to be routed via proxy, but there is no proxy support built in to the Roku. So I would like wire my Roku directly my computer's second NIC, and force all traffic through a proxy. What kind of software and hardware setup will I need? Also, which anonymous proxy service are best for this purpose? I'm not interesting in full anonymity or encryption. I simply want to mask my location while providing the best possible throughput.

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  • Install wireless router with cable modem - need authentication server?

    - by Paul
    I've bought a wireless router which I'm installing with a Telstra BigPond cable modem for a friend. As part of the setup I've got to a screen requesting username / password / authentication server for the cable modem They have contacted Telstra who supply the username / password and say that is all they need. They dont know anything about an authentication server. There are a couple of answers up on Whirlpool forum found through google but those answers are 4 years old. http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies-archive.cfm/475258.html http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies-archive.cfm/479615.html I havent tried them yet as I hoped to get actual answers before trundling over to my friends house again. Can anyone suggest, How to get information from Telstra support? (I realise this question maybe impossible to answer) What is the authentication server for Telstra BigPond for a user in Sydney Australia Are those whirlpool forum answers still valid? I guess if I dont get anything more here I'll try what it says on whirlpool and see what happens.

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  • How do I set my router up to authenticate with my service provider?

    - by João Lourenço
    Currently I have this setup: D-Link DSL2640U connected to the phone line: VPI/VCI 0/40, Service Category UBR Without PCR Service pppoe_0_40_3 Interface nas_0_40 Protocol Bridging (LLC/SNAP-Bridging) 802.11q not enabled Bridge Service Enabled Computers have individual PPPoE connections (in Network and Sharing Centre - Set up a new connection or network - Connect to the Internet - Broadband (PPPoE) - Username and Password) How would I move these settings on each individual PC to the router so that all I need to do is connect to the wireless? I have been unsuccessful setting up anything other than Windows PCs on the network (I have tried Macs, iOS and Nokia SmartPhones too). Thanks for the responses in advance!

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